Agrotechnics

For sowing seeds, choose a well-lit area that is away from buildings and trees. First you need to make a trench, which is covered with nutrient soil. The bones are deepened into it by 50-60 mm, while the distance between them should be equal to 20-25 centimeters. Then the seeds need to be sealed and watered very well. After the liquid is absorbed into the soil, the surface of the bed should be covered with a layer of mulch (leaves, grass or sawdust).
Sowing seeds can be done in spring, summer and autumn. If the seeds are sown before winter, then the seeds will undergo natural stratification during the winter months, in the spring, after the garden bed is freed from shelter, seedlings will appear together and start growing.
When seedlings have intensive growth, make sure that the soil in the garden is loose and slightly moist all the time. For their feeding, a solution of humus is used. If necessary, they are sprayed against diseases and pests with a solution of Ridomil or Thiovit.
Before spring planting, stratification is required - during the winter, the bones are stored in the refrigerator, in a container filled with wet peat or sand.

A two-stage stratification is recommended: I - at 20/30° for 3 months, II - at 2-5° for at least 3 months.
Strawberry seeds are sown in March on moist, compacted compost and lightly pressed down to the surface. The container with crops is covered with glass or film and kept for three days in the vegetable box of the refrigerator, and then moved to a warm place with a temperature of 18-20 ºC. From time to time, the soil is moistened through a sprayer. When shoots appear after about a month, the glass is removed, the container is moved closer to the light, and the temperature is reduced by 3-4 degrees for a week, after which the previous temperature regime is restored - 18-20 ºC. At the stage of development of 3-4 leaves, strawberry seedlings swoop down on peat pots, and in the second half of May, when the threat of return frosts has passed, the seedlings are planted in the garden after preliminary hardening.

Previously, the seeds are subjected to cold hardening by placing them in snow or in a refrigerator. Seeds are placed in containers with moist soil, covered with a film, insulated with agrofiber on top and placed under snow, making sure that the air temperature is not higher than +2 ° C, otherwise premature germination of seeds may begin, which will inevitably lead to their death. Before planting, unabi seeds are placed in pots with moist soil and placed in a cold place. In a refrigerator with a temperature of 0 ... + 4 ° C, the seeds are aired every 10 days, while making sure that the soil is always wet. In the spring, as soon as warm weather sets in (at least +10 ° C), seeds are sown in open ground or in a greenhouse (for regions with a cool climate). They are sown in 2-3 pieces to a depth of 3 cm, making an interval between the holes of 5 cm. Moisten the soil and cover with a film. After 3 weeks, the shelter is removed and the crops are thinned out, increasing the distance between the sprouts to 25 cm. Until the cold weather, seedlings are watered every 2 weeks, insulated with non-woven material for the winter, and planted in a permanent place in the spring.

Seeds need stratif. at 3-5° for 3-6 months. Along with this, a two-stage stratification is recommended: I - at 20 ° for 0.5 months, II - at 3 ° for 6-7 months.
To germinate cherry seeds, stratification is required. To do this, they must withstand a certain period of time in the cold. There are two options for this procedure. In the first case, the bones must be put in a plastic bag (in autumn, at the end of October, before the onset of cold weather). And then bury it in the ground until spring. In this case, the seeds will undergo natural stratification, but they will not be available until the soil thaws.
In order to plant in the spring, you can use the second variant of stratification. It consists in the fact that the seeds need to be folded into a damp material, rolled up, and put on top of a plastic bag. Then put the resulting bundle in the vegetable compartment of the refrigerator and leave for at least 3 months. During this time, it is necessary to periodically moisten the material so that the seeds do not dry out.
At the end of the stratification, you can begin to germinate the seeds. To do this, you need to additionally keep the bones in water for 3-5 days, changing it every 12 hours. You should also prepare pots with a height of at least 15 cm and a nutrient substrate. If desired, the soil can be prepared independently. To do this, mix turf, peat, leaf soil, sand and humus in a ratio of 2: 1: 1: 1: 1.
Step-by-step instructions for germinating drupes: Lay a drainage layer on the bottom of the pots. Fill the rest of the space with nutrient soil. Water generously and wait until the moisture is completely absorbed. Level the surface, deepen the seeds 1 cm into the ground. Top with earth. Moisten the surface with a spray bottle. At the end of the procedure, the pots must be covered with a transparent film and placed in a shaded place with a temperature of +25 degrees. Periodically, the shelter must be removed and the containers ventilated.
After the appearance of friendly seedlings, the containers should be transferred to a bright windowsill and the temperature should be lowered to + 16 ... + 18 degrees. This will prevent stretching of the shoots and stimulate the growth of the root system.
Otherwise, care is the same as for other plants in the house. Seedlings should be watered as the top layer of soil dries out. Periodically loosen the soil in a pot, and fertilize with organic matter once every 2 weeks. When the seedlings grow up, they should be planted in separate pots. Young trees should be planted in a permanent place in the country or in the garden at the age of at least 2 years.

Seeds need stratif. at 3-5° for 3-6 months.
Planting in the spring. Seeds are previously subjected to stratification, that is, long-term keeping of seeds at a certain temperature for their further fruitful germination. The same process goes through the bones planted in the fall, only in a more natural way.
Around the end of January, the bones are placed in a box of damp sand, which is then lowered into the cellar or refrigerated until April. The storage temperature must be +2°C at all times and the sand must always be damp.
Or, in early March, the seeds can be soaked in water for three days, changing the water every day and preventing souring. After the bones have been saturated with moisture, they are placed in wet sand, lowered into the cellar, and in April they are planted in the same way as in autumn.
For sowing in autumn, the seeds are placed in a pre-prepared trench 5-6 cm deep (depth for large seeds, if the seeds are smaller, then the depth is less). Humus, straw, sand, black soil are laid out at the bottom of the trench, bones are placed next, then they are sprinkled with the same composition, and sprinkled with earth on top.

It is quite difficult to propagate dogwood due to the difficulty of germination of its seeds, which have a very deep dormancy and have very dense seed coats. Seeds sown in autumn partially germinate in the second, and most in the third and even fourth year. Pre-sowing preparation of seeds requires their long-term stratification. In practice, in the presence of greenhouses, the following method of stratification of dogwood seeds showed good results. Seeds are placed in boxes with wet sand (moss, sawdust) and placed in a greenhouse in which there is a layer of manure (preferably horse manure) 40 cm thick, then a layer of earth 10 cm. Germination in this case reaches 70-80%. Before laying seeds for stratification, a prerequisite is their preliminary soaking in water for 3 days. Water must be changed to speed up the physiological processes necessary for seed germination.
There is an accelerated way of stratification. Treat the peeled seeds for three days with a 2% solution of sulfuric acid. After such a procedure, sow them in a box with sand to a depth of 2-3 cm and constantly moisten for six months. By spring, the first shoots appeared. Of course, it was not 100%, but they sprouted quickly.
Further care for seedlings is usual: do not allow drying out, shade from hot summer rays, periodically weed weeds, mulch the soil. In the first year, seedlings will grow only 4 cm from ground level. By the second year by 15 cm, then they can be transplanted to a permanent place.

Seeds need stratif. at 1-5° for 3-4 months.
Seeds for stratification are sent 3-4 months before sowing, that is, in the south, the process starts already in November, to the north - in early February.
For Ukraine and the South, there is also such an option: start stratification in February, and in April sow the seeds immediately into the ground, bypassing growing on the windowsill.
Stratification steps: Wrap the seeds in a damp cloth and place in a plastic bag. Poke holes in it first with a toothpick so that the seeds can breathe. Place the package at the very bottom of the refrigerator. The optimum temperature is +1… +5 °C. Once a week, take out the seeds, unwrap, rinse with clean water, change the bag and napkin to prevent mold and rot.
Seeds can germinate in the refrigerator ahead of time. We will have to sow them immediately and take great care: protect them from diseases and pests, illuminate them. The reason for premature germination is the temperature in the refrigerator is above the optimum. This can be avoided by monitoring not only the seeds, but also the temperature inside the refrigerator.

Recommended stratif. at 2-5° for 4-7 months
Seeds are sown in autumn, in October, directly into the ground, the grooves are sprinkled with humus and sawdust. In early spring, a frame is installed over the crops and a plastic film is pulled over it so that the seeds germinate faster. When the seedlings have a pair of true leaves, they can be seated. For spring sowing, it is advisable to stratify the seeds, that is, mix them with peat or river sand and place in the refrigerator at a temperature of 2-3 ºC, taking out and stirring from time to time. In order for the sprout to germinate calmly, the dense shell that covers the rosehip seeds must be partially destroyed. This is achieved by prolonged exposure to cold in a humid environment: the seeds are placed in wet sand and stored in a refrigerator until sowing.

When sowing in ridges / boxes on the street, it sprouts for 2-3 years. Seeds need a two-stage stratification:
I - at 20-25° for 3-4 months, II - at 4-7° for 7-9 months.
The substrate for medlar can be purchased at the store, or you can make it yourself from equal parts of sheet soil, humus, sand and peat. Fill the pot with drainage holes with the substrate, remembering to first place a layer of expanded clay in it. Loquat seeds are buried in moistened soil by 2 cm (up to six seeds can be placed in one pot), after which the surface is covered with a film or covered with glass. In anticipation of seedlings, crops are placed in a warm, bright place, for example, on a windowsill. Not earlier than in a month, sprouts will appear, and it will be necessary to shade the seedlings from direct sunlight, ventilate the crops daily and remove condensation from the coating so that fungal diseases do not affect the plants from dampness. When the shoots grow to 2 cm, the cover is removed from the pot, and the seedlings are kept at a temperature not lower than 18 ºC. If it's summer outside, put a pot of medlar on a balcony or terrace, protecting young plants from gusts of wind, drafts and bright sun. Keep the substrate slightly moist by watering it 2-3 times a week. If the medlar has risen, then its growth will be rapid: in a month the seedlings can grow up to 15 cm, and then, so that they do not interfere with each other, they are planted in separate deep containers with a soil mixture of coarse-grained river sand, peat and humus. Weak seedlings after transplantation may die, but there's nothing to be done - natural selection ... And large and strong plants will become even larger and stronger.

Seeds need stratif. at 3-5° for 3-6 months.
Seeds can be sown in pots all year round.
For good germination, seeds need preparation - you need to soak them in water for 24 hours and stratify (cool) in the refrigerator for 3-6 months at a temperature of 5 ° C.
Seeds for stratification are placed in a substrate prepared from clean, wet sand or sand mixed with peat in a ratio of 1:1. The ratio of seeds to substrate is 1:3, they are mixed so that individual seeds have less contact with each other. A mixture of seeds and substrate is placed in plastic containers or zippered bags. Every 2 weeks and in the last month of stratification weekly, the contents of the container should be mixed, ventilated, and moistened if necessary. After the appearance of the first shoots, stratification stops and the seeds are sown in pots or open ground.

A two-stage stratification is recommended: I - at room. T within 1 month, II - at 1-3 ° for 2 months. Seeding is superficial. The seeds are photosensitive. When placed in the dark at the germination stage, they do not sprout, including after being transferred to the light.
Blueberry seeds need to be placed in a mini greenhouse for germination. To do this, you need to take a plastic container with a lid, lay a paper towel on the bottom and moisten it with water, but so that the water does not stand much. And on this wet towel you need to spread the seeds. Then close the lid and put the container in a warm place.
Here you will need to be patient. Blueberries will germinate this way in about a month. Maybe a little earlier, maybe a little later. The humidity in the container will also need to be monitored all the time. Seedlings will definitely appear. As soon as the seeds germinate, you can proceed to transplant. Transplanted sprouts acquire a more or less presentable appearance after 7 days. It is important to use acidic soil, as blueberries love it. Peat is well suited for planting germinated seeds. And it is very important not to allow it to dry out, it should always be wet. These are the conditions that blueberries love. Otherwise, the sprouts can quickly die.

Disinfect in a solution of Epin or Zircon for 10-12 hours. To do this, pour water into a shallow container so that the seeds are half filled, and add 1 tsp. liquid 2-3 drops of the drug. It is impossible to allow the grains to be completely immersed in water, since without oxygen the germination process will not begin.
To speed up seed germination, you can lightly rub the surface of the stone with a knife, then pierce the shell with a needle and wrap the seed in a damp cloth, moistening it regularly. In this state, the grain should be 3 days.
After carrying out such manipulations, the seeds will germinate as soon as they enter the soil.
The soil should be loose, well pass moisture and air, have a neutral level of acidity. But the plant can take root on other substrates, in natural conditions it grows on clay, sand. From ready-made soil mixtures, the optimal solution is a universal soil for roses, begonias. You can also make a substrate yourself, taking in the same parts: humus, soddy soil, leafy soil, river sand.
A plastic container, a wooden box or a flower pot will serve as a container for sowing. The container for planting must be selected shallow, since the roots of the pomegranate can grow in breadth.
To obtain a high percentage of seed germination, it is required to follow a clear algorithm of actions when sowing pomegranate seeds:
Lay a drainage layer of expanded clay on the bottom of the selected containers, then fill them with a soil mixture and moisten them with clean water from a spray bottle on top.
Distribute the seeds evenly over the surface, keeping a distance of at least 3 cm between them so that the roots do not intertwine during development.
Carefully deepen the bones into the substrate by 1-1.5 cm. The soil should remain loose, it should not be compacted.
Cover the container with crops with glass or film to create a greenhouse effect and put it in a warm and bright place.
A strong deepening will provoke inhibition of rooting, and a surface landing will lead to a slow emergence of pomegranate seedlings.
Conditions and rules for the care of seedlings
In order to grow strong, healthy seedlings of an exotic crop, it is important to provide the plants with appropriate care and comfortable conditions from the first days after sowing.
Before germination, you must:
After sowing, maintain the temperature in the room with seedlings at +25-30°C.
Every day, remove the film for 15-30 minutes to avoid waterlogging.
Water the pomegranate regularly, preventing the soil from drying out.
In winter, use phytolamps for additional lighting, increasing the daylight hours to 12 hours.
The first shoots will not be long in coming and will appear in 2 weeks. But if sowing is carried out at the wrong time and in violation of the planting rules, then the wait for sprouts can be delayed up to a month.
Small pomegranate sprouts need to provide optimal conditions for normal growth and development:
Remove cover, but only gradually, each time extending the time.
Rearrange the pot in a place whose temperature indicators are in the range of + 18-25 ° С.
Organize a daylight hours of at least 10 hours. It is important to additionally illuminate the pomegranate using a phytolamp.
Conduct moderate watering as the soil dries out, using separated and warm water.
Do not forget to spray the seedlings 1 time in 2 days.
Regularly ventilate the room, protecting the sprouts from drafts.
As 2-3 pairs of leaves are formed on the seedlings, they need to be planted, while removing all weak shoots. From them it will not be possible to grow strong and healthy plants. When picking, the central root of the seedling needs to be pinched a little. This will help the pomegranate grow a large number of suction lateral roots, which will increase the ability to absorb nutrients and moisture.
A month after picking the top of the plant, it is important to shorten it by 1/3 of the length. This manipulation will contribute to a better development of the root system.

Cover the seeds with damp loose clean sand and put in a jar for 1.5 months in the refrigerator. After stratification of seeds, they are sown in late February - early March in seed boxes. The soil mix consists of 2 parts of peat and 1 part of sand. Seeds are sown superficially, sprinkled with 2 mm of sand. With regular soil moisture, seedlings will appear in 2 weeks at a temperature of + 20 + 25 ° С. Seed germination is high, so sow less often. When the seedlings reach 5 cm, they dive. For a year at room conditions, in a deep pot with nutrient soil, figs can grow up to 70 cm. Moreover, if the room is constantly warm and well lit (south window), it does not shed its leaves for the winter.

The bones must be soaked in gauze for several days. The main thing to remember is that there should not be a lot of water. The gauze must be damp. For one tree, you need to prepare about fifteen seeds, since not all will swell and sprout. Sprouted seeds must be planted in a pot. Only first you need to choose the right soil / soil. The ideal option would be to purchase special soil for citrus trees. However, this is not so important, ordinary soil will do. Since the homemade tangerine tree is unpretentious. Therefore, you can choose a mixture of soil from turf and leaves. It is important to remember that you can not choose peat, as it will quickly turn sour and dry out, besides, it has a minimum of beneficial bacteria. You can also make your own potting mix. To do this, you will need: sand, turf, humus, leafy soil, clay. For drainage you need: small pebbles, expanded clay, brick chips. Next, a drainage layer is laid out at the bottom of the pot, and a soil mixture is laid on top of it.
Only after that, ready-made seeds can be planted, which will sprout in a few weeks. It is impossible to say in advance how long it will take for a seed to germinate and sprout. In some cases, it is 15 days, but more often - about a month. In any case, before germination, it is important to monitor soil moisture and air temperature, which should not fall below +20 ° C and exceed +25 ° C. At the same time, it is not recommended to place pots in a mini greenhouse, tangerines sprout so well, and plants grown in greenhouse conditions will then need to be accustomed to room conditions.

Seeds need stratif. at 5° for 1-3 months. In the light, germination improves.
Conditions for sowing seeds: soil mixture - sandy loam of a neutral or slightly acidic reaction. The place is well lit. Protection from wind and frost. Seeds sown at the end of summer germinate in the spring of the next calendar year. During the winter, they undergo a natural stratification and germinate in April. It is not scary if shoots appear in the fall. For the winter, they need to be covered with dry grass or straw, with a layer of 15 - 20 cm.
You can sow irgu in the spring. Then the seeds need to be prepared, since autumn, keep them in wet sand, but in a dark place, at a temperature of +5. Three months before sowing, gardeners recommend placing shadberry seeds in a damp cloth moistened with hydrogen peroxide and keeping them cool in a plastic bag.
Seeds are sown in grooves, the width between which is 20 cm. 2 g of seeds are spent per linear meter (140 pcs. in 1 g). Placed at a depth of 2 cm. The sprouted irgu dive in stage 2 - 3 sheets.

Like citrus fruits, poncirus seeds do not tolerate drying, losing germination. It is better to stratify the seeds in the refrigerator, in wet coarse sand at a low, positive temperature.
We soak the seeds of poncirus for 5-6 hours along with a growth stimulator (succinic or boric acid, "Heteroauxin"). We plant the seeds in moist soil to a depth of 0.5-1 cm. We cover the pot with a film, and put it in a bright room with a temperature of 23-28 degrees Celsius. After 7-10 days, we check the shoots. It is possible to transplant an ascended plant into another pot or into open ground only after 3 months. Wild lemon poncirus grows slowly for the first 2-3 years after germination, in the 4th year it begins to grow rapidly (up to 50 cm per year), bears fruit at 4-5 years.

Seeds retain their germination capacity up to 2 years, but germinate poorly. You can sow them both in spring and autumn. If you sow the seeds immediately into the ground in late autumn, then the process of their germination will be long, since the seed will begin to germinate only after 18 months. This is a simple method that does not require special training and effort. Well-ripened seeds should be sown on the soil surface in the shade from bushes, trees, buildings, because moisture is better preserved here. A bed with sown seeds should be protected until germination and rooting of seedlings. Therefore, you can not even pull out the weeds. In order to avoid damage to the underground shoots of viburnum and to prevent the death of sprouts from drought, it is better to mulch the area. The seedling will begin to develop only in the spring of the second year of planting, and only then will it have shoots. It is possible to sprout earlier if a small amount of wet sand is mixed into the seeds and this mixture is kept for several weeks, first at room temperature at home and then in the cooler conditions of the refrigerator.

Fill a small bowl with clean water at room temperature. Put the seeds in water and wait 24 hours for them to absorb the moisture. By doing so, you will increase the chances of seed germination, as their shell will soften. After soaking the seeds for 24 hours, drain the water and place the seeds on a clean towel. Do not soak the seeds for more than 24 hours, as they may become too soft and not sprout.
Plant the seeds in a prepared pot or open ground. Take a 10 cm pot with drainage holes in the bottom, or choose a suitable site in the garden for planting seeds. If you are going to germinate an orange outdoors, dig a small hole and place the seeds in it. If you are using a pot, add some pebbles to the bottom to improve water drainage, and place potting soil on top of it. With your finger, squeeze a hole about 1.5 centimeters deep in the center of the pot. Put the seeds in the hole and cover them with soil. After planting the seeds in a pot, make sure that it receives enough direct sunlight daily.
Fertilize and water the seeds as they germinate. Tender sprouts will need a light fertilizer, such as compost tea. Add enough compost tea to keep the soil moist. Fertilize the soil once every two weeks and water it once a week, or as soon as it dries out. If the soil dries out too often, the orange tree will wither. When the sprout begins to grow into a tree, it will become larger and leaves will appear on it.
When leaves appear, prepare a larger pot. After a few weeks, when the shoots grow and leaves appear on them, they should be transplanted into a larger pot. Suitable pot with a diameter of 20-25 centimeters. Make sure it has drainage holes, and fill the bottom with a layer of pebbles or small stones. Fill most of the pot with potting soil. Mix equal proportions of peat moss and sand to create well-drained, slightly acidic soil. For an orange, a pH level in the range of 6.0-7.0 is suitable. You can also purchase soil for growing citrus fruits at a garden supply store.

Choose a site suitable for gumi, ideally it should become a permanent place of residence for a young plant. Make small holes 2-2.5 cm deep at a distance of 20 cm. Place gumi bones in the holes. Sprinkle with wood ash and cover with soil. Above the plantings, build a shelter from a film from frost. In winter, make sure that the bed is covered with snow. Shoots of gumi should appear in the spring. Some gardeners claim that spring sowing gives better results than winter sowing. But for this it is necessary to preserve viable seeds and arrange stratification for them - an imitation of winter. In late September or early October, transfer the seeds to a container and mix with damp sand, sawdust, or moss. Place the container in a refrigerator or cellar (temperature from 0 to +3 °C). After 4–5 months (in February-March), plant the seeds in seedling boxes. After frost, transplant the shoots into the ground. There is another way to grow gumi from seeds. This is something between autumn and spring sowing. Place the bones in a box with wet sand, sphagnum or sawdust. Immediately bury it in the ground to a depth of 30 cm. For the winter, insulate the place where the seeds were dug. In early spring, a month before sowing, take out the box and bring it into heat. Moisten the substrate with seeds regularly. Wait for the seeds to hatch and then plant them in seedling soil; keep the crops on a sunny windowsill or in a greenhouse. With the advent of steady heat, transplant the sprouts outside.

For stratification in autumn, the seeds are placed in a small container filled with a moistened mixture of peat chips and sand in a ratio of approximately 1: 1, deepening 4-5 cm into the substrate. The container is sent to the refrigerator for 3-4 months, in a special compartment for storing vegetables and fruits where the temperature is maintained at the level of 3-5ºС. The substrate needs to be moistened every 2-3 weeks by spraying from a spray bottle. By spring, the seeds should hatch. In the spring, after hatching, the seeds are taken out of the refrigerator and soaked for 5-7 days in a biostimulant solution, changing the liquid daily. After that, the seeds one by one should be planted in small individual pots with moist, fairly loose fertile soil, deepening by 2-3 cm. They need to be germinated like any other seedlings - under a film, put on a bright window. The first shoots should appear in 7-8 weeks, the latest ones can "linger" for another month and a half. Seedlings grow very slowly - they can be placed in a greenhouse not this summer, but only next season. And then the growth rate will be extremely low, you will receive the first flowering, depending on the conditions and care, only in the 5-8th year.

A two-stage stratification is recommended: I - at room. T within 1 month, II - at 1-3 ° for 2 months.
Seeding is superficial. The seeds are photosensitive. When placed in the dark at the germination stage, they do not sprout, including after being transferred to the light.
Seeds are harvested for several (2-3) months in the freezer. When the seeds are taken out of the refrigerator, left at room temperature, they receive a "signal" that it is time to exit the "hibernation" period. The time has come for favorable germination.
Blueberries grown from seeds grow very slowly over several years. Landing is carried out in stages:
Prepare (in March-April) a special, light in structure, and acidic (pH 4-5) soil, consisting of coniferous litter, river sand and peat in equal proportions.
Fill them with wide containers with drainage holes.
Dried seeds are planted in containers, making small holes (0.5-0.7 cm deep), into which 2-4 pieces are lowered. seeds.
Carry out gentle irrigation.
The planting is covered with a perforated film, and placed on window sills (with shading), or under a phytolamp.
The room should be warm (+22+25ºС).
Maintain moderate soil moisture.
Every day, seedlings can be additionally opened for ventilation.
In autumn (October-November), purchased seed can be planted in open ground. In early spring, seeds that have undergone stratification are planted.

The best time to grow papaya at home from seeds is in early spring, when daylight hours increase. Thanks to this, the plant will receive enough light. If you plant a melon tree in late autumn or winter, you will have to provide the plant with additional lighting. Otherwise, the culture will get sick, which will affect its shoots and leaf plates. In the northern hemisphere, the only way to grow papaya is at home in a pot, where they create "tropical" conditions for it.
Seeds are placed in wet gauze in a plastic bag and kept at a temperature of about 30°C. If you have a growth stimulator on hand, you can soak the seeds in it for 2 days. When the seeds hatch, they are sown in the soil. You can sow seeds in light, moist soil in separate cups of 2-3 pieces, with lower heating to 27-30°C, they germinate in 1.5-2 months.
Sowing of seeds is carried out in a prepared substrate, which includes: peat; sand; turf; land from a garden or orchard. You can also use a purchased mixture intended for citrus fruits.
There are several basic rules: choose containers with a diameter of approximately 100 mm; fill them with prepared soil; germinated seeds are laid to a depth of 20 mm; cover the containers with foil or plastic containers. To prevent the plant from suffocating, airing is done every day. The coating is removed for about 20 minutes, after which the mini-greenhouse is mounted again. After 10 days, young sprouts appear.
Young seedlings are very tender, as they grow they are transferred to larger containers with citrus soil, being careful not to damage the root system. Landing is carried out together with an earthen clod.
In summer, papaya can be taken outdoors.

When propagated by seeds, the seed collected in July is stratified for about six months in a basement or a dark cold room at a temperature of 5-7 ºC. Sowing seeds in the ground is carried out in early October. The recommended soil temperature is around 10 ºC. Planting is mulched. Loosening is carried out in early spring, and by mid-April the first shoots appear. To accelerate the growth and improve the development of the shrub, it is regularly fed, watered, and weeded. When sowing seeds, the characteristics of the parent plant are split, so not all of them are preserved in the offspring. The bush begins to bear fruit 4.5 - 5 years after planting.

Planting seeds is best done in January-February: Prepare for planting a special soil for succulents. At the bottom of a large pot or container, equip a drainage layer. Disinfect the soil with any biofungicide. Deepen the seeds into the soil by 1 cm, pour lightly. Cover the container with glass or film, building a greenhouse. At room temperature, the seedlings should hatch in about a week.

In about a month, the first needles will grow on the succulent. Now you can dive it into a separate pot with moist soil. As the soil, use the same succulent or enriched with peat and organic fertilizers substrates. Reduce the temperature and regularly moisten the soil.

Seeds do not require any pretreatment, but pre-soaking for 12 hours before sowing improves germination. Seed germination takes from 24 to 50 days. The plant is ready for transplantation in 3-4 months.

The tree begins to bear fruit 3 years after transplantation.

Soil: any permeable soil is suitable. 2 parts of turf, 1 part of leafy earth, 1 humus, 1 peat, 1 coarse-grained sand or perlite. You can use a peat-based substrate. Always use a pot with a hole.

Sowing: in early spring at a temperature of 16-22 ° C, the seeds of duchenne are slightly pressed into the soil. Cover the container with glass and put it away from the light. Seeds of Indian duchenia germinate within 1-6 weeks, but their germination time can be shortened if they are stratified. To do this, immediately after sowing the seeds in a box or in a pot, put them in the refrigerator for a week. And then place them in a warm, sunny place.

A month after the emergence of seedlings (when at least 2 leaves appear), the plants can be dived and transplanted.

Care: timely watering and removal of dried leaves.

Fertilizer: from May to September, 1 time in 2 weeks with a highly diluted liquid fertilizer.

Preparation: guava seeds should be soaked in wet discs or cotton cloth for 2-3 days before sowing, so that the seeds swell.

Soil: light and loose, a mixture of turf, humus and sand (1:1:1) is well suited.

Sowing: plant the seeds in a pot with soil and cover with a film or glass to create greenhouse conditions. 1-2 times a day, you need to open it for ventilation, so that mold does not appear. Seedlings will appear in 2-3 months.

Guava begins to bear fruit on the 3rd-4th year.

Care: watering, fertilizing.

Fill a small pot with drainage holes with a single layer of expanded clay and potting soil. The seed should be planted in the middle of the pot to a depth of 2-3 cm, cover with transparent film. During germination, the temperature should be maintained within +25-+34C and the top layer of soil should be provided with constant but moderate moisture. After the sprouts appear, remove the film and place the pot in a bright place, but without direct sunlight. When 4-6 true leaves grow, transfer the lychees to a larger pot.

The seeds need to be stratified - pre-winter sowing in open ground in October. Over the winter they will undergo natural stratification, but privet seedlings will appear only after a year. If you postpone sowing seeds until spring, place them in a box with sand and peat and keep them at a temperature close to 0 ºC, or in the refrigerator.

Plant the seeds in a loose substrate, one seed for each glass to a depth of no more than 2 cm. The temperature in the room with the seedlings should not be higher than 20 degrees. Watering is required, but moderate. For faster growth, you can backlight it. After a year or two, the seedlings can be transplanted to a permanent location.

Preparation: Cover the seeds with warm water and leave for 3 days, then place on the bottom shelf of the refrigerator for 48 hours.

Sowing: fill the bottom of the container with drainage, add a nutrient substrate and place the seed in the pot so that the light spot is located on the side to a depth of about 4 cm, moisten with settled water at room temperature. Cover the container with film to create greenhouse conditions and place in a warm and dry place, away from drafts.

Every day you need to remove the film for a while. If all the rules are followed, the first shoots will appear in 13-15 days.

Care: additional lighting (at least 12 hours of daylight), temperature range from +23°C to +27°C, watering with settled water at room temperature, regular feeding.

Anguria syriana. Anguria is cultivated as a seedling. The seeds are sown to a depth of 1 cm in individual cups at the end of April. The seedlings are planted outdoors in late May/early June. It likes sunny sites and fertile soils, but is otherwise undemanding, producing abundant yields even in short and cool summers.

The seeds are sown at the end of February. The seed needs to be prepared before sowing. It is placed on moistened gauze and placed in a warm place. But before soaking the seeds, the shell of each bean should be carefully pierced with a sharp needle, without touching the white spot on the rib, because this is where the germ zone (from which the sprout emerges) is located. First, fill small cups with a substrate consisting of sand, leaf turf and peat. In each cup, sow one seed into the soil to a depth of around 40 mm. The seeds are moistened gently with a sprayer, covered with clingfilm and placed in a warm place with diffused light. To ensure that the seedlings emerge as quickly as possible, remember to air and moisten them regularly with a sprayer and keep them warm (about 23 degrees). When the seedlings have grown and become stronger, they can be transplanted to the garden. Plant out in May once the weather has warmed and the threat of spring frost has passed. For the seedlings to take root as quickly and better as possible, they should be carefully transferred from their cups into the prepared hole, making sure to keep the clump of soil intact. The distance between the planting holes can vary from 0.2 to 0.4 metres. Place a support around the planting immediately, which should be at least 200 cm high. Choose a sunny location for planting, because this plant is light- and heat-loving. The place selected for planting should also be reliably protected from strong winds and draughts, because they can severely damage it and even cause the death of the shrubs. The soil should be loose, nutritious and neutral. Before planting the seedlings, do not forget to dig out the soil. If the soil is exhausted, apply decompost about 30 days before planting the seedlings.

Seeds require a three-stage stratification process: I at 18-20°C for 2 months, II at 3-5°C for 2 months, and III at 13-15°C for 1 month. Germination occurs during the last stage. Sowing to a depth of 0.5-1 cm.
Planting of actinidia can be carried out both in autumn (before the first frost) and in spring - the latter is preferable.
The position of the planting site should be selected carefully. Remember that it prefers fertile soil that is permeable to moisture and air, but does not like high groundwater levels. The actinidia plant thrives well next to buildings and fences on their southern side, but it is better to protect young trees from the open sun. As the tree ages, it will like direct sunlight.
In the first decade of December, the planting material is soaked for four days so that above the seeds there is about two centimetres of water, which is changed daily with fresh water. The actinidia seeds are then placed in a capron stocking and lowered into a box with damp sand.
The box should be kept in a room with an air temperature of 18-20 ºC. Every week, remove the stocking with the seeds from the sand and air it out for a few minutes, then wash the seeds under running water without removing them from the stocking, gently squeeze them out and dip the stocking into the damp sand again. It is important that the seeds do not dry out. In January, wrap the box with the sand and the planting material in the stocking in a cloth and bury it in deep snow for two months. If there is no snow, place the box in the refrigerator instead of one of the vegetable containers. After two months, take the seeds out of the refrigerator and place them in a place that maintains a temperature of 10-12 ºC, no higher, so that the seeds will not go into dormancy after being stratified in the cold, once they have been exposed to the relative heat. Continue to wash and aerate the stocking weekly as you did before stratification and once you have discovered that some of the seeds have sprouted, plant them all in containers with a mixture of river sand and sod soil and work them in to a depth of half a centimetre. The seedlings should be sprinkled regularly and protected from direct sunlight, and in mid-June, when they have developed 3-4 true leaves, they should be transplanted to the greenhouse. The seedlings will flower for the first time in three to five years, at which time the sex can be determined and then transplanted to a permanent location.

Seeds can germinate for up to a year without additional treatment. Creating the right conditions for prolonged germination is difficult. Amateurs use accelerated germination methods. In all methods, the seeds must be scarified, breaking off the dense seed coat.
We suggest using one of three methods: 1) Soak the seeds for a day with the stimulant Zircon, Epin or similar. Seeds are sunk to 0.5 cm, germinated in the light at 28-350 C, with lower heating.
Keep the seeds in a 3% hydrogen peroxide solution until germination. 2) Soak the seeds in distilled water for 24 hours. Remove the floating seeds. Place the swollen seeds in the solution. The upper membrane should burst. Transfer the seeds to another tightly closed container with peroxide solution, put the jar in a warm, dark place until the seedlings appear. The jar can be opened when the seedlings appear. Remove them with a sterile instrument. For the remaining seeds, change the solution. The germinated seeds are sown and cared for in the usual way. 3) If you cover the box with the seeds sown in the usual way with the foil and create constant temperature difference up to 30 degrees during the day and up to 10 degrees at night, even the tightest germinating seeds will germinate within 1-2 months. Subsequently, the seedlings can be planted in individual cups 7 cm in diameter.

Seeds need to be stratified at 5° for 2-6 months.
The drevobubetsk grows well in a sunny area as well as in the semi-shade. So it will not be difficult to choose a location for woody knotweed. The soil should be fertile and sufficiently loose. For this purpose, a fertilizer of organic fertilizer should be applied. Decomposed manure, leaf humus and sand should be mixed in equal quantities and incorporated into the soil during digging.
The seedlings can be planted in the spring as well as in the autumn. For planting in the open ground, it is best to use seedlings that are more than two years old, they take root much better and have a high level of stress resistance. For planting, dig holes at a distance of 30 cm from each other, make sure to place a drainage layer at the bottom (river pebbles, expanded clay or crushed bricks) and cover with a small amount of soil. The seedling should then be placed in the hole and well covered with soil, so that the root system is well covered with soil. After planting, abundant watering is essential. After watering, thoroughly mulch the soil with peat, sawdust or dry leaves.
Only plant the vines in the vicinity of the structures that the arboretum is supposed to encircle.

The seeded tomordica can be planted directly in the open air, but as it likes warmth, it is better to wait until it has been transplanted at home.
Sowing is done in early to mid-spring in several stages:
1)Saw off the spout of the seed with a file or fine sandpaper, removing the layers of dense seed coat;
2) disinfect the seeds by immersing them briefly in a weak solution of manganese;
3) wrap them in a soft, damp cloth and leave in a warm place (at least + 23°C) until white roots appear.
A high percentage of germination can be achieved by planting two seeds at a time in a special peat pan with nutrient-rich soil to a depth of 1.5 cm and watering thoroughly. Afterwards, cover the containers with cling film to create greenhouse conditions and leave them there. If the correct temperature is maintained, the shoots should appear in a fortnight.
To grow momordica yourself, after the first sprouts appear, you should remove the foil and put the seedlings in a sunny place. The soil must be kept moist and should not be allowed to dry out, and the plants should be sprinkled daily. As soon as two leaves have emerged on each sprout, the seedlings should be picked out, leaving the stronger one in the pot. After that, you can start preparing the Momordica for transplanting to open soil. To do this, harden the plants as follows:
1. Take the pots outdoors daily, gradually increasing the residence time from 2 hours to a day, adding 1.5 hours each day.
2. Place the seedlings in the greenhouse and ventilate them in a similar manner, while protecting them from direct sunlight.
As soon as the maximum time outdoors has been reached for 24 hours, the seedlings can be transplanted into the open field.

Melotrium rusticum is planted in seed in the second half of April in specially prepared soil at an optimum air temperature of 25⁰C without burrowing heavily into the ground. If done correctly, it will germinate in 4-6 days and in 3 weeks it will be ready for transplanting to the vegetable garden.
Put 2 seeds in each container without burying them in the ground;
Sprinkle plenty of warm water;
Cover with polythene;
Cover with a plastic bag or cling film;
Put the plants in direct sunlight (temperature +25˚C) on the window.
This activity is recommended for the last few days of April so that the seedlings can be transferred to the vegetable garden by the end of May. If the mini cucumber melothria is planted correctly, the first shoots will appear on day 3-6. As the soil dries, moisten it with a sprayer. After 7 days of this painstaking care, the mini greenhouse is removed.
As soon as the shoots have grown to 3-5 cm, they will be hardened. The room is ventilated for 15-20 minutes every day so that they can get used to the fresh air.
This principle of growing melodrama from seed can also be used at home. Since the culture does not require large amounts of soil, it is transplanted to a medium-sized pot or shallow box, container. A few supports should also be built for the plant, otherwise it will braid everything that lies in its path that is not suitable for it.

Propagation by seed will take much longer than other methods. Young Lomonosas can only be transplanted to a permanent location 2-3 months after the first shoots have emerged.
Seed propagation of clematis is possible by sowing seeds in autumn or spring. Spring sowing is done with stratified seeds. For stratification, they are mixed with damp sand and kept for 2.5-3 months at 0-5 °C. If these seeds are sown in April or early May, shoots appear in 1.5-2 months. When sown in autumn, the seeds are not stratified.
Lomonosas with smaller seeds are usually propagated by seed in the greenhouse. The seeds are sown in boxes with a 2:1 or 1:1 mixture of soil and sand in the spring (March-April). When 3-4 pairs of leaflets appear, the seedlings are pipped into larger boxes or directly into ridges at a distance of 3-5 cm in a row. Shading, periodic loosening of the rows, mulching, timely watering, and removal of weeds are essential.

Stratification in sand or peat at 5° for 2 months improves germination. Sow to a depth of 0.5-1 cm.
Place the seeds in a kapron bag, which should be placed in a cellophane bag and placed in the refrigerator; the seeds should be taken out periodically for washing. After 1-2 months, the seeds will begin to crack gradually, indicating that they are fully mature and ready to be planted in the ground. Place the seeds in a damp cloth and place them on a radiator that is not too hot, waiting for them to sprout and for the white roots to appear. Sow the seeds into the soil to a depth of 1.5 cm. It is best to use small pots for this purpose.

The sequence is the same as for other grape varieties, except that the seeds must be stripped of their shells beforehand. If you cannot do this immediately, you can soak the seeds in water for a while.

Before planting, the material is subjected to stratification, i.e. a 2-month soaking period in a cool place. They can be stored for up to 4 years and will still germinate well, even if stored for a long time.
Grapevines can also be grown from seed - this method is even better, since young plants adapt better to unfavourable conditions. But the seeds need to be stratified before sowing. They are mixed with damp sand and stored in the refrigerator for 2 months. After stratification, the seeds are sown in pots to a depth of 1 cm. In late May or early June, they can be planted in the garden. The distance between the plants should be 1.5 m.

It is advisable to treat purchased seeds with a stimulant such as Epin before sowing. The seeds should be sown in a light, nutritious soil. Place the germination container in a warm place, preferably under a heater. After germination, place the plants in the brightest place or under a lamp. The grown plants are planted in individual pots.
The time for sowing the seeds is the end of winter or March. To germinate the seeds as quickly as possible, resort to their scarification - before planting the passiflora seeds, use a method of preliminary mashing their outer hard shell with fine sandpaper. They are then placed in a fairly aggressive environment, orange or lemon freshly squeezed juice being excellent. In comfortable conditions, the seedlings can emerge after 2 weeks, but very often they will take 1 or even 2 months to adapt. Further care involves maintaining a moderately humid environment and a constant temperature of around +25°C. As soon as the seedlings appear mature, they should immediately be transplanted into their own containers.

Three-stage stratification is recommended: I at 18-20° for 1 month, II at 3-5° for 1 month and III at 8-10° for 1 month. Under these conditions, seed germination reaches 80-90 %.
To make the lemongrass seeds sprout, they need to be prepared and subjected to a stratification process.
The best results are obtained by storing berries picked in autumn in one piece without peeling seeds from the pulp. In early January, the Chinese lemongrass seeds are cleaned from the pulp and the rest of the pulp is thoroughly washed off with water. The rinsed seeds are immersed completely in cold water, which should be changed several times a day. The soaking process continues for four days. During this time, the sand should be prepared and first washed and then well heated. The seeds are buried in it by placing them in a kapron cloth. The box with the sand and the seeds is kept warm for thirty days at 20 degrees. After that, it is taken out into the garden and buried in a thick layer of snow. The seeds should also spend thirty days in the snow. After the period in the cold, the box with the lemongrass seeds should be kept for 10 - 14 days in a cool place, at a temperature no higher than 10 degrees. As a result of such preparation, the hard shell of the seeds begins to crack, which facilitates germination. Special boxes or containers are prepared for sowing.
To fill them, one part sand is mixed with one part humus. The seeds are placed on the surface, then covered with a layer of soil half a centimetre thick. Moisten everything well, and keep it covered with a sheet of paper in order to maintain the moisture regime. If watered daily, the first shoots should appear in 10 to 12 days. During the germination period, the seeds and sprouts are susceptible to fungal diseases; to prevent infection, one to two sprays of pink manganese solution should be applied. The first germinating leaves of lemongrass are similar to cucumber sprouts, when the fourth to fifth true leaves appear, seedlings are piked either in separate containers or in a general box at a distance of not less than five cm from each other. The seedlings will be planted in early June. It is important to remember that during the first three to four years, the lemongrass does not tolerate direct sunlight and should preferably be sheltered from it. Also, as it grows, it will need a vertical support, otherwise the seedling will start to bush and give numerous root shoots and will not flower. Seeded lemongrass blooms quite late, around the seventh year, but this method has an advantage over the vegetative propagation method as in most cases seeded plants have both male and female flowers, allowing for a harvest even with a single liana.

The seeds are sown at the end of March. As the seeds are quite large, they are sown immediately in pots and grown without picking. Like most gourds, the kiwano does not like to be replanted. So fill the pot with soil (normal store-bought soil or your own, previously harvested at the cottage), place the seeds one by one into the pot, cover with soil, lightly compact and water. Cover the pots with the seeds with a lid, cling film or glass and keep them in a warm place. Open the cover, air it out and water it daily until the seedlings emerge. When the kiwano seedlings emerge, remove the cover and place the pots closer to light in a warm place. Water, feed and love. Kiwanis seedlings grow and develop very quickly. In 3-4 weeks after sowing, it will need a support. In the conditions of Moscow suburbs, kiwano seedlings are planted in the greenhouse, as usual cucumbers. The crop can be harvested from the end of July in August. They are usually eaten fresh and made into unusual salads. It is also possible to grow quinoa as a houseplant.

Immediately before sowing, soak the seeds in a manganese solution for 15-20 minutes. This procedure protects the plant from the occurrence of infectious diseases that often affect adult shrubs. While the planting material is being disinfected, the containers are prepared. Disposable cups filled with fertile soil will be ideal. A mixture of peat and humus should preferably be used as a substrate.
The top ball of soil is slightly loosened and a hole is made. Its maximum depth corresponds to 2 cm. A little water is poured at the bottom. When it has been absorbed by the soil, place the seeds and gently bury them. The cups are then placed in one large container or box. Use plastic film to create a greenhouse effect. Take the seeds to a warm and well-lit room. Sprouts appear after about 5-6 days.
When the seeds have germinated successfully, remove the foil. Keep the room at an optimum temperature of +20°C and avoid draughts. For the cucumber plants to develop successfully, there must be sufficient sunlight. Water the seedlings as the top layer of soil dries out. After a month, the bushes are transplanted to a permanent location.

Wild cucumber Echinocystis is grown by seed. The seeds are stored at +2°C before planting, i.e. they are stratified. Plant as soon as the snow melts - in April, in a sunny location in non-acidic soil. Even beginner growers can achieve good results with this method. Seeds of Echinocystis are planted directly into the open soil. Water in summer, a windless place, require support: a house, a pergola, a fence. In autumn the seeds will sow themselves or collect the seeds and plant them in the right place. Seeds withstand frost very well, so the seedlings often germinate on their own for the spring. To eliminate unwanted plants, pull them out until the first 2-3 leaves have emerged. This is extremely important to do so so that the vines do not choke out other crops in the garden.

Seeds are sown in cups in mid-late April or early May, to a depth of 2 cm. The substrate for seedlings is nutritious and at the same time light, loose, well-permeable to air and water. Before the loops appear, the cups are covered with film and kept at a temperature of about +25-+28°C.

As soon as loops appear, the film must be removed from the cups. After the sprouts straighten and open the cotyledon leaves, the temperature should be reduced to +20-+22°C during the day and +16-+18°C at night. In this case, the seedlings should receive 10-12 hours of full lighting and regular watering.

As soon as the threat of frost has passed and the temperature is established within +18-+20°C, the grown seedlings are hardened off and planted in open ground with a distance of about 50-60 cm between plants. It is important to place the garden bed in the warmest place or against a wall that is well heated during the day, which will give off heat to the plants at night.

Store the material in a cool place (you can use a refrigerator). For a successful storage period, wrap the seeds in a cloth (cotton cloth) and moisten it.
In mid-spring (early April), the seeds can be planted. Prepare a container with sand and clay, deepen the seeds, and pour a small layer of water (only tap water can be used, running water will not do). The appearance of a few leaves indicates that it is time to transfer the mullet to the reservoir. Mushrooms should be planted in such a pond, where the soil is rich in humus and peat, rather clayey. At home, mussels are planted in artificial ponds. In standing water, the plant grows very quickly, forming green thickets.
Caring for such an interesting flower is simple and requires little effort. For a long time, the flowers are a joy to the eye, simple rules should be followed:
Lighting. The plant is very fond of bright terrain, so the mounds will be comfortable in a body of water that is well heated by direct sunlight. Flowing water that is in the shade will not allow the plants to develop well. We recommend planting the mussels in warm, bright bodies of water.
Temperature regime. The water temperature depends on the stage the plant is at. During propagation by rhizome, the optimum temperature for the mound - 8-12 degrees. Leaves will appear after transplanting into aquarium soil. Fast growth and development of the plant requires a water temperature of 18-24 degrees. Cucurbits are frost-resistant, but as soon as the water starts to freeze, it should be drained and the flowers should be covered with fallen leaves.
Watering. Cucurbita grows in a reservoir, accordingly, it does not need to be watered.
Humidity. The seeds of the plant, located in the air sac, are floating. In this case, the water spreads them around the pond. Birds that like to eat flower seeds will spread them over long distances.

Susac umbrella is an undemanding plant. It should be planted in a sunny location. The plant likes bright light and warmth. The soil should be damp, boggy. It is best to plant the plant near a body of water. The reservoir can be artificial. Susak is planted in the soil, and the bottom is covered with gravel on top. Gravel or stones will preserve the soil and keep the soil from eroding. No fertilizer is needed for the susak. If the susak slows down, simply change the location or divide the shrub into several parts. If you have selected the right growing area, there will be no need to care for the plant. Moisture is taken from the soil. This is its main demand. The plant grows very quickly and may not require additional propagation. The easiest way to propagate the plant is to use seeds. Independently, it is self propagated by seed. At the start of October, plant the seeds in a small container. You can bury the container near a pond or pond. Or you can simply plant the seeds in the ground without a container. The first shoots will appear in spring.

The seeds are thrown into the water in spring. But it is best to sow in small pots filled with silt and place them 10-15 cm deep, in the area where the water warms up best. Seeds germinate at a water temperature of about 25-30°C. This temperature is the most favourable for their development. Once the seedlings have grown into floating leaves, it is time to move them to a deeper depth of about one metre. Because water chestnuts have no roots, they can be safely moved from place to place by simply tying them to an "anchor" pebble.
The nuts are dropped into the ground or (if there is no ground) planted in containers and then lowered to the bottom. Propagation of the plant takes place from seed. The roots and underwater part emerge first, followed by the above-water leaves. Chilim tolerate transplanting without any problems and it can always be moved to a deeper water body.

The lotus seed should be broken, cut off, and the shell on the blunt end of the seed should be rubbed off. For example, put a sheet of sandpaper on the table and rub the blunt end of the seed against it until the light core is visible. You can file it off or break it off with wire cutters or a knife. Put the seeds into a transparent container for germination (a jar, a food container), pour 3-5 cm of settled water (preferably melted, frosted, rainwater, spring water), put in a sunny place with a room temperature of about +25 ° C. Change the water every morning and evening with fresh water. Soon the seeds will sink to the bottom, and in a week the sprouts will appear, they are very fragile, so when you change the water it is better to take the seeds out one by one. After two to three weeks the germinated lotus is formed and will need to be transplanted. The transplant is either into a summer pond at the cottage or into an ordinary pot for houseplants. The pot is immediately filled with earth or peat and then poured with water. Remember that the water must cover the planting soil by at least 10 cm. At the same time, make sure that the leaves of the plant remain on the surface. The seeds go seven centimetres into the water (and into the ground) with their rhizomes, but the leaves should always be on the surface, in fact, they should float on the water. As the plant grows, water should be added, making sure that it floats on the surface of the water. If the sprouts and leaves are drowned, the plant will die instantly.

Sowing of seeds is carried out in the fall, directly into the ground. Usually the seeds are planted in containers with soil, then they are immersed under water.

In the first year of life, the young plants do not bloom, die in the fall, and the tubers overwinter. In the spring, when the water warms up, the apical bud of the tuber begins to grow and a stolon-like growth is formed.

Rinse the peanuts thoroughly and put them in a large jar. Then soak the peanuts in cool water and leave them for 12 hours away from direct sunlight at 21ºC. After soaking, the seeds should be rinsed and dried. Repeat the soaking procedure after 12 hours. The seeds will start to germinate after three washing and drying cycles. Only when the tops of the seeds are bulging can the peanuts be planted in the ground.
The growing area should be well lit, free of shade and well ventilated. The soil should be light, black or neutral and have a high potassium, magnesium and humus content. Peanuts cannot tolerate soil salinity.
Peanuts are planted in warm soil. Seeds germinate at 12-14 degrees, the ideal temperature being 25-30 degrees.
Be sure to wait for the weather to get warmer, since peanuts cannot tolerate frosts. Peanuts are usually planted in mid-May, after the gourds have been sown.
The best predecessors for peanuts on the plot are cabbage, cucumbers, potatoes.
In spring, prepare the soil before planting - apply 50 g of nitrophoska per 1 m2. If you prepare the soil in autumn, you can apply humus under tillage at a depth of 25-30 cm at the rate of 1-3 kg per m2.

Soak the tubers in water for two or three days. The most important thing here is to change the water once a day! If you forget, you can say goodbye to half of the tubers!
The soaked tubers can be sown in cups with soil, or they can be wrapped in toilet paper or paper towels, put into a cellophane bag and put away in a warm (not hot!) place. You can also germinate in damp sawdust.
If you are going to sow in cups (2-3 cm deep), water lightly after sowing, cover with a transparent bag or lid and wait for sprouts.
If you decide to wrap for sprouting, check and moisten the paper from time to time. As soon as the roots appear - into the cups. The soil for chufa sprouts should ideally be soil + sand (or perlite) + some ash. As sprouts appear in cups - bags, covers remove. Do not pour a lot! The soil should be slightly damp. Chufa can take up to two weeks to germinate.

Sow the seeds in the spring or in the winter. If you choose to sow almonds in the spring, the seeds need to be stratified by placing them in a vegetable crate in the refrigerator for 3-4 months. The almond seeds are sown in 8-10 cm deep seed furrows at a distance of 10 cm and with a distance of 45-60 cm between the furrows. The seeds will germinate the following year, in April, and you will need to water, weed and loosen the soil. In July, when the seedlings have reached a height of 50-60 cm, the side branches on the trunks below 10-12 cm from the surface level should be cut out with a pruning shear. By this time, the thickness of the stem of the seedling at the root neck is approaching 1 cm, which means that the tree can already be used as a rootstock, but it must first be transplanted to a permanent location and allowed to take root.

Seeds need to be stratified at 1-5° for 3-4 months.
A good time to sow beech seeds is early spring. Prepare small pots for sowing beech seeds or find a suitable spot in the garden. Sprinkle the beech seeds into the loose soil. Cover them with a layer of soil as thick as the nuts themselves.
The seeds will germinate within a few weeks. Young beech plants can take several weeks to germinate. Only the seedpods will be visible at first. Beech seedlings will need some more time to become seedlings. They must be protected from frost and drying out before final planting.

Seeds need to be stratified at 3-5°. After Seeds need to be stratified at 3-5°. After 3-6 months only a few sprouts start to appear, and mass sprouts in the second year.
There are several ways to grow hazelnuts. The method with nuts is the easiest. It is carried out in spring or autumn. Autumn planting of hazelnut should be done about a month before frosts and snowfall. The seeds are planted at the rate of 50 nuts per 1 sq. m., deepened into the soil by 7-8 cm.
If for any reason the hazelnut seeds could not be planted in the open ground in autumn, the nuts should undergo stratification before spring planting to improve germination.
To grow hazelnuts, seeds can be planted both in seedlings and in the open ground. If there are few or no sprouts after stratification, you should wait until the following spring. The nuts may not have undergone the necessary stratification and will do so during the winter.

Stratify at 0-5°C for 3-4 months.
Place a layer of damp (not wet!) sand in the bottom of any container. Put a layer of nuts on top of it. Try to put so that the nuts do not touch each other. Cover them with another layer of sand. Put the container in a cool place. The optimal temperature for the stratification of walnuts is 0-5°C.
Check the condition of the sand every fortnight for 3 to 3.5 months. If it starts to dry out, spray it with a sprayer and put it back in a cool place.
When do I start this stratification? The prepared nuts can be planted outdoors in late April/early May, when temperatures are positive. Consequently, the nuts should be sent out for stratification, which will last about 100 days, in the second half of January.

Young pistachio trees like warmth and moisture. In special greenhouse nurseries, they are germinated from seed at about 30 degrees. Low temperatures can easily kill the entire greenhouse plantation. When germinating seeds at home, you should also provide them with high humidity and a suitable temperature. The procedure for sowing and growing a pistachio tree is as follows: First, the seeds should be soaked in water for a day. The seeds should not be left in the water for more than 24 hours as they can start to rot. When the pistachio has softened sufficiently in the water, open it up with your hands and gently peel off the thin skin. The best way to prepare pistachio seeds for sowing is rapid stratification in a warm room (20-22°C), with the nuts first soaked in warm water (35-40°C). Next, you need to remove the shell and the film, you can not entirely, but on one side you will see a ready-made sleeping root - here it is necessary to release it from the film.
Next, the prepared nuts are placed in a glass jar, covered with a lid and left in a warm place for 2-3 days, with every day they should be gently washed with water. On the 3rd day, the seeds should begin to sprout roots. When the roots have reached about 1 cm, the pistachios can be planted in transparent cups. You can use a standard 500 ml disposable cup. Smaller cups should not be used as the roots of this plant grow quite quickly. When the tree has grown to a height of 7-10 cm and its roots can be seen at the bottom of the cup, the plant should be quickly transferred to a special extended polythene container.

Soak the seed in warm water for a day. Then plant it not too deeply into the soil, about two centimetres, and water it. Then be sure to cover it with plastic wrap. Leave the seedling to germinate underneath a 'mini greenhouse'. It will be about 1.-2 months old. The care of the plant consists of proper watering, lighting, temperature and humidity. Watering should be regular, but without overwatering or drying out the soil. Regular fertilisation with mineral organic fertiliser is essential. The temperature should be between 25 and 28 degrees under cover. Then, when the plant has "sprouted", the foil can be removed and proper care continues. Water more frequently in summer than in winter, do not allow the air to become too dry and provide plenty of sunlight. It must be borne in mind that the adult soap tree is quite tall. Therefore, after germinating it, the plant can then be planted in natural soil if desired and if you have your own plot of land. You should do this when spring is just around the corner and the weather is fairly warm, at least 22 degrees Celsius.
The sapindus does not start to fructify until five to seven years later. Until then, you will only enjoy it as a beautiful ornamental plant.

Stratify at 0-5°C for 3-4 months.
The seeds should be planted in the autumn and 4 to 6 nuts should be planted in a single hole. To increase the probability of sprouting, pre-soak the nuts in warm water for 24 hours.An important condition for successful sprouting is soil cleared of rhizomes and weeds, which should be nutritious, loose and moist. The embedment depth for autumn sowing is 10-12 cm, 6-8 cm for spring sowing (after stratification). The seeds should be placed horizontally but not deeply into the hole, and protection from rodents should be provided if the seedlings are grown in the open ground. The first shoots should not be expected until the following summer. The seeds will first produce white roots and then form a stem on which the first pair of leaves will soon appear. After 3-4 years, the Japanese nutshells will be ready for transplanting. But experienced growers recommend planting the trees immediately in a permanent location, as in three years the seedlings will have had time to form long roots that go deep into the soil.

Seeds need to be stratified at 1-5° for 3-4 months.
When selecting seed propagation, note that the nuts are coated with a high-strength shell. Seeds therefore need special preparation, otherwise seedlings will have to wait a very long time to emerge. Warm water (20 to 23 degrees Celsius) is poured into a beaker and the seeds are immersed in it. Soak the seeds in the water for three days. Don't forget to change the water regularly: in the morning and in the evening.
Next, the nuts are sent to germinate, for this they are buried in moistened sand or sawdust, and buried at 10-12 centimeters. The optimum germination temperature is between 18 and 24 degrees. Moisten the substrate regularly and after 15 to 20 days the first seedlings will appear.

The seeds need to be stratified at 1-5° for 3-4 months.
The seeds are ready for planting in autumn and are buried in the ground. The germination period of the heartnut is two years.
The seeds can also be planted in spring, but they are prepared for planting in advance. Harvest the ripe walnut fruits in September, peel them from their shells (pericarp) and store them in a dry, well-ventilated room.
In January, the hazelnut is stratified so that it can be planted in the ground in spring. To do this, the seeds of the walnut are placed in a bag with damp sand and sent to the refrigerator, where they will harden until spring.
Seeds can be sown in May, in warmed soil, immediately in a permanent place, as young trees do not respond well to transplanting. The planting depth of the seeds is up to 6 cm. Soak the seeds in warm water for a few days before burying them in the ground.
The first shoots appear in June or July. This is because the plant will put all its energy into growing its root and then its above-ground green part.

The seeds need to be stratified at 1-5°C for 3-4 months.
Chestnut seeds should always be stratified in moist sand or perlite or similar substrate for at least 2-5 months before planting. If you have stored them all winter in ordinary paper bags, take them out in spring and place them in wet sand. Close the container tightly, occasionally opening the lid for ventilation, or make small holes. Some gardeners place chestnuts in a box with sand and bury it deep in the autumn under the snow. However, even if stored correctly, the seed's rind will harden and this will make it more difficult for the young shoots to emerge. The seeds should therefore be soaked before planting. The seeds are immersed in warm water and kept for 5-7 days before planting, making sure to change the water once a day.The hard rind after soaking will soften, which will increase the chances of the nuts germinating. Chestnut is ready for planting when a white sprout has sprouted. The germ has been activated and it is now easier for the sprout to germinate. Sometimes walnut seedlings are planted in autumn. This method also has its adherents. The advantage of planting in the autumn is that the chestnuts have no time to dry out and there is no storage in the sand. However, you should still soak the seeds in water to ensure they sprout.
Chestnuts should be germinated in pots with a capacity of 300-500 ml. The minimum rules that should be followed at this initial stage are
- there are no special requirements to the composition of the soil - almost any soil will do, it is enough to buy a regular garden soil mixture in a gardening shop and fill the planting container with it;
- place a thin layer of drainage at the bottom of the pot;
- The substrate should be well moistened when planting the seeds.
Given the small size of the pots, the seeds should be about one-third of the way up. Chestnuts should be sown to a depth of 3 to 5 centimetres. Make sure to follow the recommendation, otherwise, if the seeds are placed deeper, there is a chance that the seedling will not come to the surface. The deeper into the substrate, the less oxygen there is and the colder the temperature of the environment. This means that the young shoot will not be able to overcome the thickness of the soil. And a high embedding will expose the nut to drying out. If all the rules are followed, the shoots will emerge in 2-3 weeks.

Seeds need to be stratified at 1-5°C for 3-4 months.
Seeds should only be sown after stratification. It lasts approximately 100 days. If planted in the autumn, they will have a germination rate of up to 85%. If planted in the spring, they will have a germination rate of up to 60%. The optimum planting depth is 5 centimetres. Transplant young seedlings that have hardened should be transplanted 1 year after germination. If the seedlings have not yet matured, it is advisable to plant them in a permanent location after 2-3 years.

Seeds need to be stratified at 1-5° for 3-4 months.
The seeds should be sown in the autumn or stratified for long periods for sowing in the spring.
There are different ways to plant walnut:
- Soak the seeds in water for ten days. Change the water regularly.
- Soak the seeds for one day in warm water, then change the water, lowering its temperature every day. The duration of the procedure is two months. Bring the water temperature to five to seven degrees.
- In autumn, soak the seeds at 20-25 degrees for thirty days, then take them out into the snow until spring.
- Accelerated method - the seeds in early March are put in hot water for a day, then placed in the sand and left at room temperature. The seeds will germinate in a month.
- Another way is to keep the seeds in the refrigerator over the winter. Two weeks before planting, place the seeds in warm water, which should be changed every day.
- In autumn, sow the fruit directly into the ground by 5-10 cm.
After wintering in the refrigerator, you can place the seeds in a container with water so that they are more than half covered with liquid. The floated nuts should be discarded. When the husks have opened (after about 2-7 days), place the nuts in moistened sawdust or sand. Place them on their sides, cover them with the same (sawdust or sand) and keep them at a temperature of 25-28 degrees. The seeds germinate within ten days. When the roots grow to a length of 1 cm, the containers are transferred to a cool room where it is possible to maintain a temperature of three to five degrees. This can be a loggia or balcony. There they will grow until planted in the soil. Peanuts are difficult to transplant, so it is advisable to plant young seedlings as soon as possible. Even two-year-old seedlings have already developed a well-developed root system and there is a great risk of damage if they are transplanted. When planting the seedlings, the roots must be pruned or the tap root must be nipped, otherwise the walnut will grow slowly.

Seeds need to be stratified at 1-5° for 3-4 months. Store the seeds from the autumn in the refrigerator. After stratification, soak the nuts in plain water three days before planting. Change the water every day. Before planting, place the seeds in a container with damp sand and wait for the first sprouts to appear. The room temperature should be about +18 degrees. In northern latitudes you can plant the seeds at the end of spring. In the middle belt this term is shifted to April.
Planting can be done as follows:
1) The soil is first turned over.
2) Make holes about 10 cm deep. The distance between the holes is 20 cm.
3) Put the nuts on the ground sideways and cover with a layer of nutrient soil. Mulch the soil on top.
Transplant the seedlings to a permanent location one year after sowing. At this age, the roots tolerate transplanting well, recovering quickly. This is best done in mid-autumn.

Seeds are stored in burlap in a cool, damp, well-ventilated room. Seed germination during such storage lasts up to 1.5-2 years.

It is recommended to stratify the seeds. To do this, mix the nut with vermiculite/perlite/sand in a container, slightly moisten the substrate and put it in the refrigerator for a couple of weeks. Afterwards, they are scarified or treated with growth stimulants, then planted in a permanent place of residence, deepening 4-5 cm into the soil. To increase germination, several seeds are placed in one hole. In the initial phase of development, the nut grows slowly, but in 4 years it reaches a height of about 2 meters. The first flowering begins in the 2nd year, and by the age of 5 the tree bears fruit every year.

Seeds need to be stratified at 1-5° for 3-4 months.
Sown in spring after a long period of stratification lasting 5 months. Planting is also possible in autumn. Seeds can withstand frosts and almost do not freeze. Before planting, they should be treated with paraffin to prevent rodents from eating them. For spring planting, soak the stratified fruit in warm water for 10 days. The water should be changed regularly. Accelerated stratification involves soaking the nuts in hot water beforehand. They are then placed in wet sand until the first sprouts emerge. The germinated seeds are planted 7-8 cm upwards. The seeds do not require special cover and watering. However, once the seedlings have emerged, they should be kept free of weeds and loosened to allow air to enter the soil.

The seeds are soaked in warm water for 48 hours. You should work with the seeds with gloves, as the resin contained in their shell is poisonous and can cause skin burns. For planting, use small pots of 1 to 2 liters. Each nut must be planted in a separate container. The soil for growing cashews should be light, fertile and loose. The tree grows quickly; after 2-3 weeks, side shoots appear. When caring for a tropical plant, it is important to maintain temperature conditions, regular watering and provide good lighting. After just 2 years, the young tree bears its first fruits.

Sowing seeds from mid-February to April (included).
When sowing the seeds, it is advisable to use a normal disposable container. Fill the container with earth, preferably store-bought earth, and pour it into the container with boiling water an hour before the seeds are planted. During this time, the soil is aerated. Then it is best to pour the seeds a little, as with a large number, when they germinate, they will hammer themselves, they have little area for the root system, and the seedlings grow slower.
Poured the seeds, spray them with a prepared solution of Topaz (2-3 divisions in 5 cc syringe (not cubes) of 1.5 litres of water), it really helps with the development of seedlings used to improve germination, prizhivaniya, disease resistance.
Then cover tightly with a lid, you can just put it in a normal bag. And leave it like this for 2-3 days until the seeds start to sprout their roots. Then start opening the lid little by little so that the tobacco slowly gets used to the normal environment. If you open it immediately, the seedlings will simply fall over and disappear, open the lid more and more each time for 3 days. Then simply remove the lid. Tobacco seeds grow better at a temperature of 22 degrees or higher. When the lids are fully opened, the tobacco will need more light, so you can place it on windows with sufficient light or put it under a daylight lamp.
It is also not advisable to flood the tobacco too much. It does not like this. The seedlings will begin to rot at the root and will then simply fall over. Water moderately, so that the soil dries out, but only a little.
In the phase of the cross (the appearance of 2 true leaves) tobacco can be planted in individual cups or other containers. Plant in the ground when the danger of frost has passed. The distance between the bushes should be at least 30 cm. Tobacco needs plenty of potassium. Remove the leaves gradually, starting with the lower tier. Leaf maturity occurs when the leaf turns yellow-green and the veins turn white. The leaf becomes sticky and sagging. A distinctive cracking sound is heard when the leaf breaks. The best time for harvesting is at the end of the day. The leaves contain a minimum of water. To improve the quality, tobacco is topped by breaking off the flower stalks. After topping, the stalks begin to grow vigorously and must also be removed in good time.

Lupine seeds are sown for seedlings in a loose soil mixture for seed germination, consisting of peat (one part), soddy soil (one part) and sand (half part). Before sowing, the seeds are mixed with powdered root nodules of old lupins to promote the growth of nitrogen-absorbing bacteria. Shoots will appear in a week or two, and if you want all the seeds to sprout at the same time, you need to cover the crops with damp gauze and keep them warm. Cultivation of seedlings It should be recalled that seed propagation does not guarantee the inheritance of color and other characteristics of mother plants by young lupins. Lupine from seeds is usually grown for the purpose of a breeding experiment. Violet and pink colors dominate, therefore, they can be preserved in the next generation, and the white color is likely to be lost during seed reproduction. After the appearance of 2-3 true leaves, the seedlings are planted in a permanent place - do not delay the transplant, as the tap root system will become a significant hindrance to you.

Seeds are recommended to germinate in the light. Seeding is superficial. The substrate is light, acidic. You need to sow the seeds in a greenhouse. For this, a plastic container with a high transparent lid or a regular pot covered with polyethylene is suitable. The recommended temperature for seed germination is +25. Seeds are sown superficially, it is not necessary to sprinkle with earth. Further, it is necessary to maintain high humidity in the greenhouse and ventilate it several times a day so that mold does not appear. After the seedlings grow up a little, they need to be planted in separate pots and fertilized regularly. Preliminary maintenance at a temperature of 0-5 degrees for 2-3 weeks improves germination.

In nature, mallow reproduces on its own by self-sowing in the fall. In August - September (and sometimes in July), the seeds are immediately scattered to the chosen place, mulched with a 2-3 cm layer of humus. And, having marked the place of sowing with a sign, they forget about it until spring. With winter sowing, seedlings will appear in the spring at the appointed time, when the soil warms up enough, and the plants will bloom in the same season.
In April - May, the soil is still quite moist after snow melting and from rains, so tender seedlings do not need watering. The earth around the leaves that appear can be carefully shed, trying not to get on the green parts (under the root), dissolved mineral fertilizers with a predominance of nitrogen. This will help to quickly increase the required amount of leaf mass. After a while, the plant will release a flowering stem. For the formation of more buds and abundant flowering from early July to late September, the stock rose may need phosphorus-potassium top dressing.
In spring, it is also permissible to sow seeds directly into open ground. The algorithm of actions here is the same as in autumn. Sowing is carried out around the end of May, when the risk of return frosts has passed. The day before, the seeds are soaked in a solution of phytohormones. This manipulation contributes to the early awakening of dormant embryos, activates the development of the root system, and increases immunity to adverse factors.
It often happens that not all seeds sown germinate. Therefore, many gardeners sow them with a margin, which is why the opposite situation arises - plantings are thickened. If there are too many seedlings, they grow chaotically, interfering with each other, weaker plants should be removed. Further, the mallow grows on its own, without outside help. In the case of spring sowing, the leaves develop in the first year, forming a round low rosette. And only for the next season, the stock rose will have a stem with flowers. A hardy stock rose can winter well without shelter. If the variety is delicate or snowless winters are predicted, the planting site can be covered with mulch.
In areas with a difficult climate and short summers, in order to admire the flowering, it is reasonable to grow heat-loving mallow through seedlings. Sowing seeds at home or in greenhouse conditions is carried out in February with additional lighting. March - April are considered more suitable dates due to increasing daylight hours. Early sowing dates allow plants to gain strength for a successful wintering even in the case of a cold autumn. Mallow has a powerful tap root. Due to the peculiarities of the structure of the root system, it is recommended to grow a flower without a pick and transplant it together with an earthen clod. As planting containers, it is better to take peat or cardboard cups with a larger volume so that the roots have enough space for full development until they are transplanted directly into the ground. Such containers, having previously broken out the bottom, are placed in the ground, as is, entirely, without disturbing the root system of the plant, even by transshipment. The prepared loose soil mixture is steamed or calcined. Adding perlite in a ratio of 1:3 will increase breathability. Seeds are pre-soaked in warm water with a growth stimulator diluted according to the instructions. Seeds swell from nutrient moisture, wake up and sprout faster. They are laid out in separate pots, deepening only 2-3 cm, covered with a film and placed under phytolamps. It remains to carefully monitor the moderate soil moisture and ambient temperature. It should be about 18-20 degrees.

Sowing dates:
In early October, they are sown on prepared ridges before winter. Shelter before frost with fallen leaves or boards, for less freezing of the soil. Seedlings appear early in spring.
At home, you can sow at several times from February to March. Until then, keep the grains in the refrigerator. If at home or in a greenhouse there are conditions for additional illumination of seedlings, daylily seeds aged in the refrigerator for 3-4 weeks can be sown in containers with soil from October. When there are no such favorable conditions for the development of seedlings, then daylily seeds should be sown closer to March, when the frequency and duration of sunny days increase.
Pre-sowing treatment:
For better germination, soak the seeds in a solution of hydrogen peroxide (a teaspoon per 0.5 liters of water). Daily change the liquid to fresh or germinate on cotton pads. Moisten the base well, lay the seeds between the layers. Cover with a bag, put in the refrigerator.
Check daily for broken seeds. The bulk awakens in 5-7 days. Single copies can "think" for a month or more.
Soaking in a camphor solution helps to wake up the "slow-thinkers". Alcohol tincture 5 g is added to a liter of water. Soak seeds for 3 days. Hatched specimens are planted immediately. Overexposure leads to decay of planting material.
Sowing:
We make drainage holes in the container. We prepare a mixture of purchased land with the addition of sand. Pour into boxes 10 cm high. We spill with a weak solution of potassium permanganate. We spread the seeds on the surface. Sprinkle the substrate with a layer of 0.3-0.5 cm. With a shallow incorporation during germination, the grains come out, with a deep one, they sprout tightly. Therefore, you need to monitor landings daily. Sprinkle protruding specimens with soil so that they do not dry out.
The soil is kept moderately moist. Until the moment of germination, the boxes are covered with a film. Then it is gradually removed.
Experienced gardeners note a good result of sowing in peat tablets one seed at a time. The balanced composition of the soil with the addition of fertilizers helps to get friendly shoots faster. There is no need for picking.
Soak semi-finished products in water, saturating the soil. The seed is laid out in the recesses in the middle of the tablet, sprinkled with river sand on top. They put it in a tray. With slight drying, water is added to the container. Before planting in open ground, remove the mesh that holds the peat outside.

The seed material of irises has its own characteristics: for germination, they require stratification.
Seeds can be sown in autumn or spring.
During autumn sowing, stratification occurs in a natural way. Under the influence of cold temperatures with the onset of heat, green sprouts will appear on the beds. Plants grown by winter sowing are more viable and do not stretch. Seeds are sown in mid-September. For the winter, the bed is covered with earth by 20 centimeters.
If it was decided to grow iris by sowing seeds in the spring, then it is necessary to carry out artificial stratification. Seeds are laid out in a container, wrapped in a damp cloth. Within 1-2 months, the seed should be in the refrigerator. The fabric should always be damp, but do not allow mold to form.
In February or March, the seeds are sown in loose soil in separate cups. The embedment depth is not more than 2 cm. Irises need to be grown in good light and in warmth.

Seeds are not naturally dormant and can be sown without prior treatment. To promote seed germination, soak seeds in room temperature water for 12 hours before sowing. Sow the seeds in containers filled with all-purpose soil and sprinkle a light layer of earth on top. Then gently compact before watering and cover with a plastic bag or glass. Growing temperature from +20 to +25 °С. Seeds will germinate in 2-4 weeks.

Seeds are sown for seedlings in March. Sow the seeds in a seedling box, shallow. Sprinkle with soil and put in a warm place with diffused lighting. Seedling care consists in moistening the soil. Grown up and strengthened sprouts are planted on the site in May. Sowing seeds in open ground is carried out when there is no threat of frost, although sowing in November before winter is considered the best sowing time. During the winter period, the seeds undergo stratification in natural conditions, seedlings are considered more viable. In any case, the sowing depth is a centimeter. If sowing in the spring, keep the soil moist at all times. Buzulnik, grown from seeds, blooms no earlier than the fourth year.

Perennial. If annual varieties of poppy begin to bloom in the year of planting, then perennial varieties are likely to bloom the next season (if the seeds are sown in the fall). When planted in spring, flowers will appear on the bushes later than in autumn sowing. Poppies bloom in early summer.
The fruits of this plant is a box, covered with a "lid" on top. When it dries, small holes appear between it and the lid. If you leave a box with seeds on a bush, as a result of self-seeding, seeds will spill out through these holes. And this cycle will be repeated every year.
Planting an oriental perennial poppy is not at all difficult. Sowing material is planted immediately in the ground either in spring or autumn. As mentioned earlier, flowers after sowing will appear in the second or even third year.
If the seeds are too small, they can not even be deepened much, but only slightly pressed.
When planting seeds for seedlings, when 5 young leaves appear, plants can be planted in beds or flower beds. But, as a rule, the seedling method is not used, and the seeds are immediately sown in a permanent place.
There is an opinion that stratification is necessary for good germination of poppy seeds. That is why experienced gardeners advise sowing in early spring, when there is a chance of frost. If planting is carried out in a region with a mild climate, it is better to sow poppies in the fall so that the seeds receive the necessary stratification. They will thrive in the spring.
Before planting a flower garden, you just need to loosen the ground with a rake and scatter the seed. Some flower growers mix it with sand. After that, the seeds are sprinkled on top with a thin layer of earth. At the same time, the main thing is not to deepen them too much, because later they may simply not have enough strength to ascend. The landing site must be watered, but not heavily flooded with water.

Seeds are sown in August-September.

In August and September they are planted in a cold frame or greenhouse; Picking is done in seedling boxes and placed for overwintering in a well-ventilated greenhouse or in a cold frame.

Germination in spring is slower. In this case, a two-stage stratification is desirable: 1 week at 18-20C, then 1-2 months at 2-5C.

The seeds are laid out on the surface, pressed a little, no deeper than 2 mm. There is no need to cover it with soil. The containers with the seed are covered with film, creating a greenhouse effect. They need to be placed where the light is diffused. The earth must not dry out. Watering is only drip.