Agrotechnics
Techniques, methods of cultivation and cultivation of plants
Important!
Seeds that have passed stratification, we send wet in perlite, and if you received dry seeds (without perlite), which means that they have not passed stratification and you, if it is required for seeds, need to stratify!
Seeds of coniferous plants
Stratification at 2-5⁰C for 1-3 months will stimulate germination.
When germinating at home, the best germination is achieved when the seeds are germinated in a mini greenhouse. Cover the seeds in a container with stretch wrap or a transparent cellophane bag and place them on a window sill with half sun and half shade. Once a day, remove the foil for half an hour to air it out and prevent mould. After removing the greenhouse, the needles should be sprinkled with water every day.
The soil should be light. This can either be light mineral soil (sand, loamy sand) or high-moor peat compost. Heavy soils can cause the seedlings to die.
Light should be provided as much as possible from the first days after germination. Pine is a very light-demanding species and the slightest shading will cause growth to be impaired. The more light the better.
The sowing depth should not be more than 0.5-1 cm in boxes. Ideally, the seeds should be covered with earth so that they do not dry out and so that the germinating root does not protrude from the soil.
Soaking before planting is beneficial and speeds up germination.
Soaking in ice-cold melt water is thought to increase germination and germination energy (although this is debatable). Soaking the seeds before sowing in room temperature water, or better still, in damp gauze or filter paper, for a day or less gives good results.
It is also possible to keep the seeds in damp gauze until they are nucleated (as is done with cucumber seeds) and then plant the seeds in pots if the seedlings are to be grown at home.
Scratching, piercing etc. in the case of pine seeds does not help at all - the seed's shell is soft enough as it is, so it can't swell up and germinate.
As pine is a coniferous plant, it, like others, is prone to fungal diseases, which means that in the first year seedlings should be treated with Fytosporin or another analogue. During the stratification of the seeds, make sure that they do not become mouldy. Inspecting and ventilating the seeds will help to avoid this.
Transplanted from boxes to a nursery or permanent location in the first year in autumn, if sown in the ground, it can be transplanted to a permanent location in the second year in spring or autumn; pine trees take root very well.
When germinating at home, the best germination is achieved when the seeds are germinated in a mini greenhouse. Cover the seeds in a container with stretch wrap or a transparent cellophane bag and place them on a window sill with half sun and half shade. Once a day, remove the foil for half an hour to air it out and prevent mould. After removing the greenhouse, the needles should be sprinkled with water every day.
The soil should be light. This can either be light mineral soil (sand, loamy sand) or high-moor peat compost. Heavy soils can cause the seedlings to die.
Light should be provided as much as possible from the first days after germination. Pine is a very light-demanding species and the slightest shading will cause growth to be impaired. The more light the better.
The sowing depth should not be more than 0.5-1 cm in boxes. Ideally, the seeds should be covered with earth so that they do not dry out and so that the germinating root does not protrude from the soil.
Soaking before planting is beneficial and speeds up germination.
Soaking in ice-cold melt water is thought to increase germination and germination energy (although this is debatable). Soaking the seeds before sowing in room temperature water, or better still, in damp gauze or filter paper, for a day or less gives good results.
It is also possible to keep the seeds in damp gauze until they are nucleated (as is done with cucumber seeds) and then plant the seeds in pots if the seedlings are to be grown at home.
Scratching, piercing etc. in the case of pine seeds does not help at all - the seed's shell is soft enough as it is, so it can't swell up and germinate.
As pine is a coniferous plant, it, like others, is prone to fungal diseases, which means that in the first year seedlings should be treated with Fytosporin or another analogue. During the stratification of the seeds, make sure that they do not become mouldy. Inspecting and ventilating the seeds will help to avoid this.
Transplanted from boxes to a nursery or permanent location in the first year in autumn, if sown in the ground, it can be transplanted to a permanent location in the second year in spring or autumn; pine trees take root very well.
Stratification:
1. take a wide but shallow box and fill it with substrate. Be sure to treat the substrate with a dark pink manganese solution.
2. The seeds are planted in the prepared soil to a depth of 1-2 cm. Water abundantly with room temperature water. The whole soil should become moist.
3. Place a layer of snow 5-7 cm thick. Cover the box with cling film and place it in the refrigerator, but not in the freezer.
4. As the soil dries, moisten it, preferably with melted water.
The stratification should last at least 3 months. During this time, the seeds should be kept on the bottom shelf of the refrigerator or in the cellar.
It is also possible to stratify the seeds in a container with damp perlite (you also need to keep it moist, as in the case of the soil, periodically stirring the entire composition in the container).
Soil:
You can use commercially available soil for conifers or mix your own soil.
The following mixtures are suitable: equal amounts of white river sand, gravel, peat;
coniferous forest peat mixed in equal proportions with garden soil;
sawdust, garden soil, peat and sand in equal proportions. Drainage must be used, e.g. shell rock, expanded clay, fine crushed stone or broken pottery. It is also disinfected.
Planting:
After 3 months of stratification, the seeds are sown. They can be planted directly in the open air or grown at home.
One of the easiest options for sprouting pine nuts involves using the substrate in which the planting material underwent stratification. In this case, the box with seeds is taken out of the refrigerator or cellar, abundantly watered with warm water and placed in a warm and bright place. Cover the container with cling film and leave it in this position until the seeds germinate. Open the film periodically to allow the seeds to air out. Moisten the soil as it dries.
The disadvantage of this method is that untested seeds after stratification can become infested with fungus. In this case, most of the planting material will not germinate.
Most gardeners prefer to transplant walnuts into new soil:
The seeds are removed from the soil in which they have been stratified and are then sorted. Remove any that are covered with mould, have spots, signs of rot or soft spots.
The nuts are washed in a light pink manganese solution and dried.
Fill the bottom of the planting container with 1-2 cm of drainage. Fill the remaining volume with soil so that 2-3 cm of soil is left free up to the edge.
Plant the seeds into the soil to a depth of 0.5-1 cm. The distance between them should be at least 3 cm. Do not place the seeds deeper than this, otherwise they will germinate slowly.
Moisten the soil with room temperature water. Cover the container with cling film or clear glass and place it in a warm, bright place.
As the soil dries, moisten it, preferably with melted water. The soil should soak up the moisture, but the liquid should not stand over the surface of the soil.
It will take an average of 1.5-3 weeks for the seeds to germinate after stratification.
1. take a wide but shallow box and fill it with substrate. Be sure to treat the substrate with a dark pink manganese solution.
2. The seeds are planted in the prepared soil to a depth of 1-2 cm. Water abundantly with room temperature water. The whole soil should become moist.
3. Place a layer of snow 5-7 cm thick. Cover the box with cling film and place it in the refrigerator, but not in the freezer.
4. As the soil dries, moisten it, preferably with melted water.
The stratification should last at least 3 months. During this time, the seeds should be kept on the bottom shelf of the refrigerator or in the cellar.
It is also possible to stratify the seeds in a container with damp perlite (you also need to keep it moist, as in the case of the soil, periodically stirring the entire composition in the container).
Soil:
You can use commercially available soil for conifers or mix your own soil.
The following mixtures are suitable: equal amounts of white river sand, gravel, peat;
coniferous forest peat mixed in equal proportions with garden soil;
sawdust, garden soil, peat and sand in equal proportions. Drainage must be used, e.g. shell rock, expanded clay, fine crushed stone or broken pottery. It is also disinfected.
Planting:
After 3 months of stratification, the seeds are sown. They can be planted directly in the open air or grown at home.
One of the easiest options for sprouting pine nuts involves using the substrate in which the planting material underwent stratification. In this case, the box with seeds is taken out of the refrigerator or cellar, abundantly watered with warm water and placed in a warm and bright place. Cover the container with cling film and leave it in this position until the seeds germinate. Open the film periodically to allow the seeds to air out. Moisten the soil as it dries.
The disadvantage of this method is that untested seeds after stratification can become infested with fungus. In this case, most of the planting material will not germinate.
Most gardeners prefer to transplant walnuts into new soil:
The seeds are removed from the soil in which they have been stratified and are then sorted. Remove any that are covered with mould, have spots, signs of rot or soft spots.
The nuts are washed in a light pink manganese solution and dried.
Fill the bottom of the planting container with 1-2 cm of drainage. Fill the remaining volume with soil so that 2-3 cm of soil is left free up to the edge.
Plant the seeds into the soil to a depth of 0.5-1 cm. The distance between them should be at least 3 cm. Do not place the seeds deeper than this, otherwise they will germinate slowly.
Moisten the soil with room temperature water. Cover the container with cling film or clear glass and place it in a warm, bright place.
As the soil dries, moisten it, preferably with melted water. The soil should soak up the moisture, but the liquid should not stand over the surface of the soil.
It will take an average of 1.5-3 weeks for the seeds to germinate after stratification.
For stratification, place the fir seeds in a moist mixture of peat and river sand and leave them at 1-5°C for 3 months (you can put them in the refrigerator). Start sowing fir seeds in mid-spring and remember to soak them beforehand. Put loose substrate consisting of compost, sawdust and sand in shallow containers. Spread the seeds over the surface or into shallow grooves and lightly cover with a layer of soil. Mound conifers on top (optional) and cover the container with cling film. Once a day you should remove the foil for half an hour to air it out and prevent mould. When the seeds have germinated, remove the foil and provide good light. After removing the greenhouse, sprinkle the needles with water every day. In the summer the seedlings can be taken outside (balcony) and placed under trees. The seedlings can be planted outdoors after a couple of weeks.
Larch seeds must undergo stratification. They are placed in damp sand and placed in a refrigerator at a temperature of 1-5 degrees for 3 months. The seeds are planted at the end of April or beginning of May. Voluminous boxes with drainage holes at the bottom are used for planting the seeds. Before use, the containers are treated with a manganese solution to disinfect them. A drainage layer of 2 cm is placed at the bottom. Use expanded clay or small pebbles as drainage. The boxes are filled with soil, prepared in the following proportions:
peat-10 kg;
sand-3kg;
chalk-40 grams. Or you can buy ready-made soil for conifers.
Before planting, moisten the soil abundantly, make furrows in it 1.5 cm deep, embed the seeds in them and embed the peat and sawdust. The distance between the seeds is at least 5 cm. The distance between the rows is 10-12 cm. To create a greenhouse effect, cover the boxes with polyethylene and place them in a warm room. In a fortnight, the first shoots will appear. Remove the plastic and place the seed boxes in a well-lit area.
It is best to water via a tray as the soil dries out. As conifers are susceptible to fungal diseases, it is advisable to periodically treat the soil and seedlings with fungicides. Once the seedlings have their first pair of needles, begin hardening them so that they gradually become accustomed to their environment. During the warmer months, place them outdoors. If there are small, poorly developed plants, do not despair. By transplanting them into separate containers, they will grow quickly.
peat-10 kg;
sand-3kg;
chalk-40 grams. Or you can buy ready-made soil for conifers.
Before planting, moisten the soil abundantly, make furrows in it 1.5 cm deep, embed the seeds in them and embed the peat and sawdust. The distance between the seeds is at least 5 cm. The distance between the rows is 10-12 cm. To create a greenhouse effect, cover the boxes with polyethylene and place them in a warm room. In a fortnight, the first shoots will appear. Remove the plastic and place the seed boxes in a well-lit area.
It is best to water via a tray as the soil dries out. As conifers are susceptible to fungal diseases, it is advisable to periodically treat the soil and seedlings with fungicides. Once the seedlings have their first pair of needles, begin hardening them so that they gradually become accustomed to their environment. During the warmer months, place them outdoors. If there are small, poorly developed plants, do not despair. By transplanting them into separate containers, they will grow quickly.
To grow juniper from seed, it is absolutely necessary to stratify the seeds, i.e. to subject them to a cold treatment. The simplest variant is to take a handful of sand, put seeds there, wrap them in gauze, dip them slightly in water and put them in a polyethylene bag with holes for air on the bottom shelf of the refrigerator for 2-3 months. There is another option - sow the seeds in boxes with soil, take them to the garden and store them under snow for four to five months. You can also just sow under the winter - but then the germination will be minimal and uneven (sprouts will appear within 2-3 years).
In May, stratified seeds are sown in seedbeds. Even after stratification, they will germinate for 2 years, a smaller proportion in the first season.
The seeds of some juniper species have a very dense seed coat, so before planting, they are scarified - speeding up germination by exposure to acid (usually using electrolyte and soaking for 3 hours) or by damaging the seed coat mechanically. The simplest method is to rub the seeds between two boards upholstered on the inside with sandpaper.
After scarifying, the seeds can be sown into seedbeds (boxes) to a depth of about 1-2 cm. Almost any kind of soil is suitable for junipers, but it's better to add some sand and mulch with sawdust on top so it doesn't dry out and become encrusted after watering. The distance between the seeds can be small.
The ideal time for planting, depending on the region, is April-May. It is best to choose a sunny, bright place for planting, on which the density and beauty of the branches depends.
The first year, water with Phytosporin or its analogues, against various fungal diseases.
Transplant to a permanent location at the age of 2-3 years.
In May, stratified seeds are sown in seedbeds. Even after stratification, they will germinate for 2 years, a smaller proportion in the first season.
The seeds of some juniper species have a very dense seed coat, so before planting, they are scarified - speeding up germination by exposure to acid (usually using electrolyte and soaking for 3 hours) or by damaging the seed coat mechanically. The simplest method is to rub the seeds between two boards upholstered on the inside with sandpaper.
After scarifying, the seeds can be sown into seedbeds (boxes) to a depth of about 1-2 cm. Almost any kind of soil is suitable for junipers, but it's better to add some sand and mulch with sawdust on top so it doesn't dry out and become encrusted after watering. The distance between the seeds can be small.
The ideal time for planting, depending on the region, is April-May. It is best to choose a sunny, bright place for planting, on which the density and beauty of the branches depends.
The first year, water with Phytosporin or its analogues, against various fungal diseases.
Transplant to a permanent location at the age of 2-3 years.
Spruce seeds need stratification. This is usually done at a certain temperature and in a moist substrate. In the case of spruce, the seeds should first be placed in cold water for 3 days. It is best to use melted snow or ice from the street. Sometimes during the cold water stratification process, the spruce seeds may stick together so that they can be separated, you will need to dry them out on dry paper or a towel at a normal room temperature after taking them out of the water. If the seeds are suspicious, e.g. if they have strange spots or darkening, they can be disinfected by dipping them in a weak solution of manganese solution for 1/4 hour just to be on the safe side. For healthy seeds, this will also be a good idea. After removing the seeds from the manganese solution, it is also advisable to dry them on dry paper or a towel at room temperature for half an hour. The ready seeds can be stored in an ordinary glass jar until sowing, and should be sealed as tightly as possible and placed in the refrigerator, where the temperature is 1-5 degrees. Stratification in the refrigerator for 2-3 months.
Prepare the soil. There should be several layers: drainage at the bottom (2 cm), peat (2 cm), soil for seeds. Choose the right type of soil. Spruce trees need acidic soil. You can buy it in shops or you can make it yourself by mixing soil from the forest where the spruces grow with universal soil in the ratio of 1:1. Preferably, bake the soil in an oven to disinfect it. Place the seeds in the soil to a depth of 1 cm. The seeds should be at least 4 cm apart otherwise they will be crowded together. Cover the pot with plastic wrap and put it in a warm place. Periodically spray the soil with a sprayer. In a couple of weeks the seedlings will sprout. Sprout them if necessary. When they're older, place them in separate containers. Caution: Up to a year, the seedlings need to be protected from direct sunlight - this is destructive to the immature needles. The tree will simply burn, turn yellow and dry out. Make sure that you water correctly. In spring, summer and September, water the seedlings as soon as the soil dries out. From October to February, water fir trees once every 3 weeks if the temperature is between 6 and 10 degrees, or once a month if the temperature is lower. Do not forget to water occasionally with a sprinkler so that the needles do not dry out. There is no need to feed the seedlings. If a seedling gets too small in its pot, it can be transplanted to a bigger pot. But try to do this as infrequently as possible - spruces do not handle transplanting well. Important: For successful transplanting, do not expose the seedling's roots, keep the root ball moist, transplant the tree as quickly as possible and water it generously afterwards. At the age of 3 to 5 years, transplant the spruce into the open ground. This is best done in the second half of April or early May. For the tree to take root, follow the rules stated above. When transplanting, do not expose the roots and keep the root ball as close to the soil as possible.
Prepare the soil. There should be several layers: drainage at the bottom (2 cm), peat (2 cm), soil for seeds. Choose the right type of soil. Spruce trees need acidic soil. You can buy it in shops or you can make it yourself by mixing soil from the forest where the spruces grow with universal soil in the ratio of 1:1. Preferably, bake the soil in an oven to disinfect it. Place the seeds in the soil to a depth of 1 cm. The seeds should be at least 4 cm apart otherwise they will be crowded together. Cover the pot with plastic wrap and put it in a warm place. Periodically spray the soil with a sprayer. In a couple of weeks the seedlings will sprout. Sprout them if necessary. When they're older, place them in separate containers. Caution: Up to a year, the seedlings need to be protected from direct sunlight - this is destructive to the immature needles. The tree will simply burn, turn yellow and dry out. Make sure that you water correctly. In spring, summer and September, water the seedlings as soon as the soil dries out. From October to February, water fir trees once every 3 weeks if the temperature is between 6 and 10 degrees, or once a month if the temperature is lower. Do not forget to water occasionally with a sprinkler so that the needles do not dry out. There is no need to feed the seedlings. If a seedling gets too small in its pot, it can be transplanted to a bigger pot. But try to do this as infrequently as possible - spruces do not handle transplanting well. Important: For successful transplanting, do not expose the seedling's roots, keep the root ball moist, transplant the tree as quickly as possible and water it generously afterwards. At the age of 3 to 5 years, transplant the spruce into the open ground. This is best done in the second half of April or early May. For the tree to take root, follow the rules stated above. When transplanting, do not expose the roots and keep the root ball as close to the soil as possible.
To germinate, the seeds need to be stratified in moist sand for 1 to 3 months. To do this, take a glass of wet sand and 500-1000 seeds (as an example), mix them, put them in gauze and wrap the whole thing in a plastic bag with holes for air. Put it in the fridge and once a fortnight see if the seeds have started to split. Even if they haven't - after three months, sow them in a box or directly into a bed by filling the box with a mixture of turf or garden soil, peat and sand (1:2:0.5 part). Smooth the soil well over the entire surface and compact it so that the crate rim is 4-5 cm above it. The seeds can simply be pounded into the ground to a depth of about 2 cm and spaced 2-3 cm apart, but it is easier, again, to spread them on the surface and mulch them with dry earth (1-1.5 cm). When germinating at home, the best germination is achieved when the seeds are germinated in a mini greenhouse. Cover them with some stretch wrap or at least a transparent bag and place them on a window sill with half sun and half shade. Once a day, remove the foil for half an hour to air it out and prevent mould. After removing the greenhouse, the needles should be sprinkled with water every day. The seeds should germinate in a warm place at a temperature of at least 20 °C. Once the seedlings have sprouted, the pot can be moved to a cooler, well-lit location. The small, pubescent roots of the seedlings should be gently covered with sand and moistened with a sprayer. The seedlings should be aired and carefully inspected every day, removing diseased plants if any are present.
The first year your thuja will grow to around 6-8cm and it is too early to transplant from the box, but it should preferably overwinter in the ground, so drill a few holes in the box from below to drain the water and place it in the bed at ground level. Transplanting to re-growing can only be done at the end of the second season and to a permanent place at the age of 4 years - then the seedlings will be already half a meter high, with a good root system and will take root well.
You can sow seeds directly into the ground under the winter, germination is certainly lower due to various factors (very often they squeeze out of the ground in spring), but if you have enough seeds, seed in a bed, so then do not run two years with seedling boxes.
Remember - cultivar thuas may not inherit their parental traits when grown from seed. Although it is time-consuming and labour-intensive, growing thuja from seed has the distinct advantage of producing a large number of seedlings at once.
The first year your thuja will grow to around 6-8cm and it is too early to transplant from the box, but it should preferably overwinter in the ground, so drill a few holes in the box from below to drain the water and place it in the bed at ground level. Transplanting to re-growing can only be done at the end of the second season and to a permanent place at the age of 4 years - then the seedlings will be already half a meter high, with a good root system and will take root well.
You can sow seeds directly into the ground under the winter, germination is certainly lower due to various factors (very often they squeeze out of the ground in spring), but if you have enough seeds, seed in a bed, so then do not run two years with seedling boxes.
Remember - cultivar thuas may not inherit their parental traits when grown from seed. Although it is time-consuming and labour-intensive, growing thuja from seed has the distinct advantage of producing a large number of seedlings at once.
Planting cypress seeds requires a number of recommendations:
- Pre-standing the seeds in the cold (stratification). An ordinary refrigerator can be used for this. The seeds are sent to 'overwinter' for 3-4 months to give good germination.
- Soaking. The seeds should be placed in warm water for 10-12 hours to swell. It is better to use special growth stimulants for this purpose.
The second half of spring is the optimal time to grow cypress from seeds at home. The procedure is as follows:
-Prepare a low box.
-Prepare a soil mixture of leaf soil, sand, peat and sod in a 2:1:1:1 ratio.
- Moisten the soil and compact it.
- Spread the previously prepared seeds on the surface.
- Backfill the seeds with no more than 7-10 mm of topsoil.
- Moisten the soil with a spray gun.
- Cover with film or glass.
- Place the box in a warm place until the seedlings appear.
It will take at least 2 weeks from the time of sowing until the first shoots appear. The seedlings should be covered with a mixture of soil and sand. The film (or glass) should be removed periodically for ventilation and then removed when the seedlings have grown up. It is important to maintain optimum soil moisture. Excess and lack of water is detrimental to the seedlings.
The second stage of seed cypress cultivation is seedling care. Plants that have reached a height of 5 cm should be transplanted into individual containers. For example, plastic cups with a volume of at least 0.5 l. Make a hole at the bottom and put drainage material. The soil composition for seedlings is the same as for seeds. The only difference is the amount of sand. Add 2 parts of sand. Every month, the cypress seedlings need to be given a special multi-nutrient fertiliser. After a year, the plants can be planted in the open ground if weather conditions allow. The ornamental conifers can continue to be grown at home. It all depends on the biology of the selected variety. Outdoors, young plants require careful attention and care. They need timely watering, loosening of the soil, protection from sun and frost, and regular feeding. The cypress tree is sure to give you a luxurious appearance if you follow the correct cultivation methods.
- Pre-standing the seeds in the cold (stratification). An ordinary refrigerator can be used for this. The seeds are sent to 'overwinter' for 3-4 months to give good germination.
- Soaking. The seeds should be placed in warm water for 10-12 hours to swell. It is better to use special growth stimulants for this purpose.
The second half of spring is the optimal time to grow cypress from seeds at home. The procedure is as follows:
-Prepare a low box.
-Prepare a soil mixture of leaf soil, sand, peat and sod in a 2:1:1:1 ratio.
- Moisten the soil and compact it.
- Spread the previously prepared seeds on the surface.
- Backfill the seeds with no more than 7-10 mm of topsoil.
- Moisten the soil with a spray gun.
- Cover with film or glass.
- Place the box in a warm place until the seedlings appear.
It will take at least 2 weeks from the time of sowing until the first shoots appear. The seedlings should be covered with a mixture of soil and sand. The film (or glass) should be removed periodically for ventilation and then removed when the seedlings have grown up. It is important to maintain optimum soil moisture. Excess and lack of water is detrimental to the seedlings.
The second stage of seed cypress cultivation is seedling care. Plants that have reached a height of 5 cm should be transplanted into individual containers. For example, plastic cups with a volume of at least 0.5 l. Make a hole at the bottom and put drainage material. The soil composition for seedlings is the same as for seeds. The only difference is the amount of sand. Add 2 parts of sand. Every month, the cypress seedlings need to be given a special multi-nutrient fertiliser. After a year, the plants can be planted in the open ground if weather conditions allow. The ornamental conifers can continue to be grown at home. It all depends on the biology of the selected variety. Outdoors, young plants require careful attention and care. They need timely watering, loosening of the soil, protection from sun and frost, and regular feeding. The cypress tree is sure to give you a luxurious appearance if you follow the correct cultivation methods.
Cryptomeria seeds need to be stratified for 2-3 months in damp sand and moss at +1+5°C. The seeds are sown in boxes in March in a mixture of peat and sand (2:1). It is better to add a part of the forest floor with shrivelled wood instead of one part of the peat. Sow superficially and cover the seeds lightly with soil. Sprouting will take from 2 weeks to 3 months at +20+25°C.
To grow Sequoias from seed, they must be stratified. You will need a ziploc bag for this. Write the date on it, put some sand or perlite in it and add some cold boiled water. The seeds can also be wrapped in a damp cotton cloth and placed in the ziploc bag. Put the bag with the seeds in the refrigerator for 1-3 months and then you can move on to planting. Check the seeds once a week for mould. If mould appears, rinse the seeds, take a clean ziploc bag and repeat the procedure.
Once the stratification period is over, move on to planting. Prepare a pot, drainage and soil. Loose, fertile soil is best for the seeds to germinate. The pot should have holes for drainage. Spread expanded clay on the bottom of the pot with some soil on top and lightly compact it. Leave some soil to cover the seeds with a small layer of topsoil. Spread the seeds on the surface of the soil and cover with a small layer of soil. Position the pot so that it will be exposed to direct sunlight for a few hours a day. Cover the pot with water and polythene and allow it to air out for 10-15 minutes once a day to prevent mould. Sprouts will appear in 6-12 weeks, depending on temperature and humidity. The optimal temperature for germination is 20-25 degrees. Sequoia germination is low, at best 15-25% of the seeds will germinate. The first shoots may appear after 2 days or after 2 months.
Once the stratification period is over, move on to planting. Prepare a pot, drainage and soil. Loose, fertile soil is best for the seeds to germinate. The pot should have holes for drainage. Spread expanded clay on the bottom of the pot with some soil on top and lightly compact it. Leave some soil to cover the seeds with a small layer of topsoil. Spread the seeds on the surface of the soil and cover with a small layer of soil. Position the pot so that it will be exposed to direct sunlight for a few hours a day. Cover the pot with water and polythene and allow it to air out for 10-15 minutes once a day to prevent mould. Sprouts will appear in 6-12 weeks, depending on temperature and humidity. The optimal temperature for germination is 20-25 degrees. Sequoia germination is low, at best 15-25% of the seeds will germinate. The first shoots may appear after 2 days or after 2 months.
Cold stratification of metasequoia seeds at +3 to +5 °C for 1-2 months gives good results. For germination, take the metasequoia seeds and soak them for 2 days in tepid water at room temperature. Change the water at least 1-2 times a day. After two days, take the seeds out of the water, shake them out onto a paper towel and dry them a little, so that they do not stick together when sowing. Next, take a box, fill it with soil (mix it yourself or buy for conifers 1:1 with universal soil). Water the soil. The seeds spread evenly over the surface. Water again (using a sprayer). If you're going to seed the plants almost immediately, you can sow in a dense layer. If you're going to plant later, sow more sparingly. Sprinkle a little soil on top, but only a thin layer - metasequoias don't like to be planted deep in the ground (you don't have to). The layer is just a couple of millimetres, so that with watering the seeds will reappear on the surface. Afterwards, spray with a sprayer. The box is covered with polyethylene. Watering from a sprayer 1-3 times a day, the same amount - airing.Polyethylene is removed with the appearance of the first sprouts. Be sure to keep the soil moist! After the first shoots emerge, water in such a way that the top layer of soil has time to dry out a little - metasequoias do not need to swamp! In the case of over-watering, blackleg, all die. Maintaining this optimum balance is a guarantee for metasequoia seedlings. Sprouts appear after 10 days.
Cunnungamia grows only in acidic soils (pH 5-6.5); on alkaline soils it suffers from chlorosis, so on the Black Sea coast very deep pits are dug for it, putting a lot of peat and organic matter in them.
The best soil for cunninghamia will be a mixture of peat, compost, sand and loam in a 2:1:1 ratio.
Manure or humus can be added in place of compost but fresh manure strongly alkalises the soil and should not be added until a year has passed. Cunninghamia is shade-tolerant but forms a thicker, denser crown in full sun. In permanently moist soils, full light is preferable. Only in late winter, when there is still snow and the sun is already beating down, sunburn is common on cunninghamia. It is therefore better to plant this beauty in the penumbra of conifers such as cedars, pines and fir trees. Cunningsamia seeds should be stratified for 2-3 months at +1+5°C in damp, loose sand with moss to harden them. Sowing should be done in March, when the daylight hours are already long. Sow superficially in the same soil as for planting the seedling. The soil should be constantly moist and the temperature should be about +25 °C, so a greenhouse can be made. Plant container seedlings in April or July so that the plant has time to acclimatise to the new location and prepare for winter. Seedlings of conifers with an open root system take root very poorly. In a warm, damp, quiet place with a slight penumbra, the cunninghamia will do just fine.
The best soil for cunninghamia will be a mixture of peat, compost, sand and loam in a 2:1:1 ratio.
Manure or humus can be added in place of compost but fresh manure strongly alkalises the soil and should not be added until a year has passed. Cunninghamia is shade-tolerant but forms a thicker, denser crown in full sun. In permanently moist soils, full light is preferable. Only in late winter, when there is still snow and the sun is already beating down, sunburn is common on cunninghamia. It is therefore better to plant this beauty in the penumbra of conifers such as cedars, pines and fir trees. Cunningsamia seeds should be stratified for 2-3 months at +1+5°C in damp, loose sand with moss to harden them. Sowing should be done in March, when the daylight hours are already long. Sow superficially in the same soil as for planting the seedling. The soil should be constantly moist and the temperature should be about +25 °C, so a greenhouse can be made. Plant container seedlings in April or July so that the plant has time to acclimatise to the new location and prepare for winter. Seedlings of conifers with an open root system take root very poorly. In a warm, damp, quiet place with a slight penumbra, the cunninghamia will do just fine.
Growing yew seedlings from seed is a slow process. This is because yew seeds must not only be stratified for 2 months at a positive low temperature (+1+5°C), but also pre-sprouted. Scarification is the process of accelerating seed germination. It can be mechanical (damage to the seed coat), thermal (soaking in hot water) and chemical (treatment with stomach acids). It is the latter that occurs naturally in the stomachs of birds, which are so fond of yew "berries". Without acid treatment and subsequent stratification, yew seeds germinate for 2-5 years, losing their germination due to drying out during the hot summer. Therefore, when sowing the seeds, you should treat them with a concentrated solution of citric acid (you can hardly find any other) for a few hours. Afterwards, place the seeds in a jar with damp sand and moss in the refrigerator for the winter. In March, you can sow seeds in a slightly acidic soil mixture (about pH 6) in seed boxes: 1 part peat, 2 parts sand, 1 part decomposed coniferous fall or deadwood (for mycorrhiza formation). The seeds are sown to a depth of 1 cm. The temperature regime should be +20+25°C, without direct sunlight. The soil should be constantly damp, so water every other day. Sprouts will begin to appear after 1 month.
Planting yew seedlings is simple: prepare a 0.5-metre deep planting hole with the same potting mix as for sowing the seeds. Yew is usually planted in areas where other plants cannot grow because of the strong shade. Yew is extremely shade-tolerant and therefore well suited to this niche. Container plants can be planted from April to November, but must be shaded from direct sun in the first year. In cold regions, yews should be covered with a single layer of agro-fibre for the winter in the first 3-4 years or until they reach a metre in height, in order to prevent the needles from barking in thaws. As yews form a mycorhiza with fungi which require organic nutrition, it is important to leave coniferous debris under the yew's crown or, even better, to mulch the root circle with oak, pine or other bark and nutshells, especially in winter.
Planting yew seedlings is simple: prepare a 0.5-metre deep planting hole with the same potting mix as for sowing the seeds. Yew is usually planted in areas where other plants cannot grow because of the strong shade. Yew is extremely shade-tolerant and therefore well suited to this niche. Container plants can be planted from April to November, but must be shaded from direct sun in the first year. In cold regions, yews should be covered with a single layer of agro-fibre for the winter in the first 3-4 years or until they reach a metre in height, in order to prevent the needles from barking in thaws. As yews form a mycorhiza with fungi which require organic nutrition, it is important to leave coniferous debris under the yew's crown or, even better, to mulch the root circle with oak, pine or other bark and nutshells, especially in winter.
Soak the seeds in alcohol for 10-20 minutes before stratification.
Stratification at 2-5° for 1 to 3 months will stimulate germination.
Until sowing in late February-early May, when the daylight hours will be long enough, and in order to harden the seeds and future seedlings, it is best to stratify them in damp sand with moss for 1-3 months (January-February) in a refrigerator at +1+5°C. Sow into a mixture of equal parts peat, sand and forest litter. Pour the seeds on the surface, moisten well, and lightly cover with soil. Then cover the container to create a greenhouse effect and place it in a warm place. The germinated seeds can then be planted in their own pots. If you do not plan to plant them soon after germination, the planting box should be more than 15 cm deep, so that the tap root will not bend, resulting in the death of the seedlings. Seedlings grow quickly and in a couple of years are ready for transplanting to a permanent location.
Stratification at 2-5° for 1 to 3 months will stimulate germination.
Until sowing in late February-early May, when the daylight hours will be long enough, and in order to harden the seeds and future seedlings, it is best to stratify them in damp sand with moss for 1-3 months (January-February) in a refrigerator at +1+5°C. Sow into a mixture of equal parts peat, sand and forest litter. Pour the seeds on the surface, moisten well, and lightly cover with soil. Then cover the container to create a greenhouse effect and place it in a warm place. The germinated seeds can then be planted in their own pots. If you do not plan to plant them soon after germination, the planting box should be more than 15 cm deep, so that the tap root will not bend, resulting in the death of the seedlings. Seedlings grow quickly and in a couple of years are ready for transplanting to a permanent location.
Stratification at 0-5°C for 1-2 months is recommended.
The seeds are placed in a mini-hothouse until the seedlings have emerged. To make the seedlings germinate more quickly, they should be soaked in a solution of pink potassium manganese for 24 hours before sowing. This will significantly improve germination and the seedlings will appear faster. The soil is the same as for all conifers. If the seeds are sown in late autumn or during the first weeks of winter, the first seedlings should appear in April. The stratified seeds are sown in boxes to a depth of 1-1.5 cm and exposed to light at +18 +23 for germination. Keep the seedlings in the light, but not in direct sunlight and water in moderation. As the seedlings mature, place them in separate containers. After warmth, take them out to the garden and plant them in the open ground after conditioning (gradual habituation to sunlight and fresh air). It will not be possible to plant out until the following year. But if possible, it is better to plant at the age of 4-5 years.
The seeds are placed in a mini-hothouse until the seedlings have emerged. To make the seedlings germinate more quickly, they should be soaked in a solution of pink potassium manganese for 24 hours before sowing. This will significantly improve germination and the seedlings will appear faster. The soil is the same as for all conifers. If the seeds are sown in late autumn or during the first weeks of winter, the first seedlings should appear in April. The stratified seeds are sown in boxes to a depth of 1-1.5 cm and exposed to light at +18 +23 for germination. Keep the seedlings in the light, but not in direct sunlight and water in moderation. As the seedlings mature, place them in separate containers. After warmth, take them out to the garden and plant them in the open ground after conditioning (gradual habituation to sunlight and fresh air). It will not be possible to plant out until the following year. But if possible, it is better to plant at the age of 4-5 years.
Before sowing, the seeds are soaked in warm water for a day. Put it under the film.
The germination temperature is about 30 ° C. It is necessary to monitor soil moisture and regularly ventilate crops.
Soil composition: riding peat, river sand, vermiculite. After germination, the seedlings are transplanted into separate containers in the soil for coniferous plants.
The germination temperature is about 30 ° C. It is necessary to monitor soil moisture and regularly ventilate crops.
Soil composition: riding peat, river sand, vermiculite. After germination, the seedlings are transplanted into separate containers in the soil for coniferous plants.
There are several ways to germinate seeds:
Method 1 - Seeds are sown superficially in a container with a mixture of peat and river sand, without deepening them, sprinkled with peat, moistened with a spray bottle, covered with film and placed in the refrigerator.
Method 2 - The seeds are mixed with damp sphagnum moss and placed in a zip-lock bag with holes previously made for ventilation. The bag of seeds is aged (stratified) for 2 months in the refrigerator on the bottom shelf. Then the seeds are freed from moss (if they hatch during stratification, the moss is left) and planted at a depth equal to the size of the seed in a mixture of high-moor peat, river sand and vermiculite (1:1:1) or in a mixture of turf and leaf soil with peat and sand (1:2:2:2).
Next, the container is moved to a warm place with a temperature of 20-25°C, where there is bright, but not direct sunlight. Further care involves the same manipulations as for adult plants.
Method 1 - Seeds are sown superficially in a container with a mixture of peat and river sand, without deepening them, sprinkled with peat, moistened with a spray bottle, covered with film and placed in the refrigerator.
Method 2 - The seeds are mixed with damp sphagnum moss and placed in a zip-lock bag with holes previously made for ventilation. The bag of seeds is aged (stratified) for 2 months in the refrigerator on the bottom shelf. Then the seeds are freed from moss (if they hatch during stratification, the moss is left) and planted at a depth equal to the size of the seed in a mixture of high-moor peat, river sand and vermiculite (1:1:1) or in a mixture of turf and leaf soil with peat and sand (1:2:2:2).
Next, the container is moved to a warm place with a temperature of 20-25°C, where there is bright, but not direct sunlight. Further care involves the same manipulations as for adult plants.
Seeds of deciduous trees
Lauricaceae likes fertile, soft, slightly acidic soil with good drainage. Propagated by sowing seeds in autumn, stratification required in spring
Sow seeds 1.5-2 cm deep. Most seeds germinate in spring, some may take a year to germinate.
In the first year, the seedlings will grow to a maximum of 20-30 cm. With seed propagation, flowering usually begins in the 6th-7th year of life.
Sow seeds 1.5-2 cm deep. Most seeds germinate in spring, some may take a year to germinate.
In the first year, the seedlings will grow to a maximum of 20-30 cm. With seed propagation, flowering usually begins in the 6th-7th year of life.
In nature, it takes 2 to 3 or more years to germinate. Embryo pre-development
at 25 - 30° for 8 - 12 months. Two-stage stratification is also recommended: I - at 20° (16 h) -30° (8 h) for 2 months, II - at 5° for 2 months.
Illumination and location. The plant prefers to grow in a sunny location, but can also tolerate penumbra. Can be placed on a window sill facing west or east, but if the plant has mottled leaves it will need a little more sun.
Temperatures. The holly does not tolerate heat and should therefore be kept at about 21 degrees Celsius in the rooms. In winter, it is necessary to reduce the temperature range to 10-15 units, but below zero the thermometer column should not fall, otherwise the plant will stop its growth.
Air humidity. When growing holly in rooms, it is necessary to maintain high levels of moisture in the air. This is done by spraying the foliage regularly in spring and summer, and this procedure is also recommended if the plant has not managed to create a cool winter period and is left in a room where heating appliances and central heating radiators are in operation. Water is used warm and soft.
Watering. The main thing in the room care for holly leaf is not allowed to stagnate moisture in the stand under the pot, which can provoke rotting of the root system or complete drying of the ground ball, which will entail the desiccation of the leaves. The soil should dry out at the top in between waterings. During the spring and summer watering should be abundant, removing the water from the stand after 10-15 minutes, but with the onset of winter the watering should be reduced. Well-distilled, warm water is used.
Fertilise holly once a month from mid-spring to September. Compound mineral fertilisers are recommended.
Repotting and soil selection. Replace the pot every 2-3 years and prune the root system. Drainage should be provided at the bottom of the new container and small holes in the bottom for drainage of excess moisture. The soil can be a purchased universal soil, with the addition of river sand or perlite, as well as a small amount of crushed charcoal.
General rules of care. If the plant has buds of the same sex, keep holly plants with female and male flowers nearby for successful pollination. Regular shaping of the crown is required, but the spikes on the foliage should not be forgotten.
at 25 - 30° for 8 - 12 months. Two-stage stratification is also recommended: I - at 20° (16 h) -30° (8 h) for 2 months, II - at 5° for 2 months.
Illumination and location. The plant prefers to grow in a sunny location, but can also tolerate penumbra. Can be placed on a window sill facing west or east, but if the plant has mottled leaves it will need a little more sun.
Temperatures. The holly does not tolerate heat and should therefore be kept at about 21 degrees Celsius in the rooms. In winter, it is necessary to reduce the temperature range to 10-15 units, but below zero the thermometer column should not fall, otherwise the plant will stop its growth.
Air humidity. When growing holly in rooms, it is necessary to maintain high levels of moisture in the air. This is done by spraying the foliage regularly in spring and summer, and this procedure is also recommended if the plant has not managed to create a cool winter period and is left in a room where heating appliances and central heating radiators are in operation. Water is used warm and soft.
Watering. The main thing in the room care for holly leaf is not allowed to stagnate moisture in the stand under the pot, which can provoke rotting of the root system or complete drying of the ground ball, which will entail the desiccation of the leaves. The soil should dry out at the top in between waterings. During the spring and summer watering should be abundant, removing the water from the stand after 10-15 minutes, but with the onset of winter the watering should be reduced. Well-distilled, warm water is used.
Fertilise holly once a month from mid-spring to September. Compound mineral fertilisers are recommended.
Repotting and soil selection. Replace the pot every 2-3 years and prune the root system. Drainage should be provided at the bottom of the new container and small holes in the bottom for drainage of excess moisture. The soil can be a purchased universal soil, with the addition of river sand or perlite, as well as a small amount of crushed charcoal.
General rules of care. If the plant has buds of the same sex, keep holly plants with female and male flowers nearby for successful pollination. Regular shaping of the crown is required, but the spikes on the foliage should not be forgotten.
We recommend a long, or preferably two-stage
1. at 20-24°C, 2. at 0-3°C for 2-3 months. Sown to a depth of 1-1.5 cm.
The container for growing ornamental shrubs is thoroughly washed with hot water and filled with loose, fertile soil.
The acidity of the soil should be reduced, otherwise the plant will often become diseased and grow slowly.
A drainage layer of fine crushed stone or stones should be placed at the bottom of the container.
The seeds should be sown in loose and light soil to a depth of 1-1.5 cm. Afterwards they should also be covered with cling film or glass and kept at a temperature of 23-25 °C and in bright light. During the winter the plant needs to rest. Therefore, the temperature in the room with the plant is reduced to 12-15 degrees Celsius. Also during the winter, additional lighting is required.
1. at 20-24°C, 2. at 0-3°C for 2-3 months. Sown to a depth of 1-1.5 cm.
The container for growing ornamental shrubs is thoroughly washed with hot water and filled with loose, fertile soil.
The acidity of the soil should be reduced, otherwise the plant will often become diseased and grow slowly.
A drainage layer of fine crushed stone or stones should be placed at the bottom of the container.
The seeds should be sown in loose and light soil to a depth of 1-1.5 cm. Afterwards they should also be covered with cling film or glass and kept at a temperature of 23-25 °C and in bright light. During the winter the plant needs to rest. Therefore, the temperature in the room with the plant is reduced to 12-15 degrees Celsius. Also during the winter, additional lighting is required.
Stratification is not necessary. Before sowing the seeds
are scalded with boiling water, then immersed in cold water and repeatedly. You can also pour boiling water over the seeds and leave them to cool down. Repeat with undiluted seeds. Sow to a depth of 0.5-1 cm.
Sow in loose, fertile soil. You can also sow under the winter or immediately after a thaw in spring. The depth of embedding the seeds is 1-2 cm, the distance between the seeds is 10-15 cm.You can grow hips through seedlings on the windowsill, sowing in February-month. The seedlings will need good light and moderate watering. Carefully dig up the grown trees with a large root ball (or free them from their seedling pots) and transplant them to a permanent growth place. A seeded bobwhite will flower in 4-5 years.
are scalded with boiling water, then immersed in cold water and repeatedly. You can also pour boiling water over the seeds and leave them to cool down. Repeat with undiluted seeds. Sow to a depth of 0.5-1 cm.
Sow in loose, fertile soil. You can also sow under the winter or immediately after a thaw in spring. The depth of embedding the seeds is 1-2 cm, the distance between the seeds is 10-15 cm.You can grow hips through seedlings on the windowsill, sowing in February-month. The seedlings will need good light and moderate watering. Carefully dig up the grown trees with a large root ball (or free them from their seedling pots) and transplant them to a permanent growth place. A seeded bobwhite will flower in 4-5 years.
Soak the seeds in water overnight to speed up germination. Fill the container with seed-sowing soil and plant the seeds 2-3 centimetres deep and water well. Lower heat helps speed up germination, which should occur in 3-14 days. Plant in individual containers when the plants have grown. For planting in the open ground, choose a spot with plenty of sun and dig a hole that is slightly larger than the root ball of the seedling. Place the seedling in the hole so that the top of the rootball is flush with the soil line and backfill the hole with a mixture of soil and compost. After planting, lightly water the newly planted seedling, taking care not to overwater it.
Treatment with boiling water followed by stratification at 1 - 5° for 6-10 months is necessary.
In sumac seeds, the germ sleeps so sound that it may awaken only a few years after maturation. It is possible to speed up the awakening process artificially. To do this, it is necessary to create conditions for the seeds in which their shell will soften and the embryo will enter the awakening phase. Nowadays, it is quite easy to stratify seeds at home. The temperature required is between +1 and +5 degrees Celsius, which is how low the temperature in domestic freezers is. We recommend soaking them in concentrated sulphuric acid for 1 hour, then sowing them after a thorough rinsing or pouring hot water (80-90°C) and letting them cool and soak for 24 hours. Treat the seeds with fungicide to reduce the chance of rotting. Toss the soil substrate of compost, coarse sand and potting soil in an oven or microwave to kill any pathogenic bacteria or micro-organisms present. Fill a small pot with potting soil and sow the seeds. Water the potting soil. Place the pot with the seeds in a container or plastic bag with a lock and store it in the refrigerator for 6 to 10 months. In the spring you will have the seed ready to be planted outdoors. If you don't want to do any stratification, sow in the autumn. In that case, nature will take care of the seed itself. But then the seeds may not germinate in the first year.
In sumac seeds, the germ sleeps so sound that it may awaken only a few years after maturation. It is possible to speed up the awakening process artificially. To do this, it is necessary to create conditions for the seeds in which their shell will soften and the embryo will enter the awakening phase. Nowadays, it is quite easy to stratify seeds at home. The temperature required is between +1 and +5 degrees Celsius, which is how low the temperature in domestic freezers is. We recommend soaking them in concentrated sulphuric acid for 1 hour, then sowing them after a thorough rinsing or pouring hot water (80-90°C) and letting them cool and soak for 24 hours. Treat the seeds with fungicide to reduce the chance of rotting. Toss the soil substrate of compost, coarse sand and potting soil in an oven or microwave to kill any pathogenic bacteria or micro-organisms present. Fill a small pot with potting soil and sow the seeds. Water the potting soil. Place the pot with the seeds in a container or plastic bag with a lock and store it in the refrigerator for 6 to 10 months. In the spring you will have the seed ready to be planted outdoors. If you don't want to do any stratification, sow in the autumn. In that case, nature will take care of the seed itself. But then the seeds may not germinate in the first year.
Stratification is not necessary. Sowing is superficial. Constant moisture must be maintained. The paulownia seeds should be sown superficially in a tray of soil without being buried or covered with soil. Dump the seeds on the damp ground, then spray them well with a sprayer to soak the ground and the seeds themselves, then cover with stretch film and put them on a warm and semi-sunny window sill for 7-12 days. Every 2 days, open it for 10 minutes so that it can air out and prevent mould. Sprouts should appear on days 7-12.
Two-stage stratification is recommended:
I at 20° for 0.5-2 months and II at 5° for 3-4 months. When the first seedlings appear, transfer to germination at 20° or sow.
To increase the percentage of germination, they should be placed in water for a few days to allow them to soak in moisture. They should then be planted in a container with loose soil. If planted correctly, the seedlings will emerge in a couple of weeks. When they are strong enough, they can be transplanted to a permanent location.
I at 20° for 0.5-2 months and II at 5° for 3-4 months. When the first seedlings appear, transfer to germination at 20° or sow.
To increase the percentage of germination, they should be placed in water for a few days to allow them to soak in moisture. They should then be planted in a container with loose soil. If planted correctly, the seedlings will emerge in a couple of weeks. When they are strong enough, they can be transplanted to a permanent location.
Alder propagation by seed is the most common method. In autumn, seeds can be placed immediately in seed boxes filled with a nutrient-rich soil mixture (e.g. peat-sand soil), but it is better to stratify them. You will need to keep the seed in cold conditions (at 0-5 degrees) for 6 months. Sow alder seeds into the substrate to a depth of no more than 2.5-3 cm.
If sown in the spring, you will have to wait for sprouts to appear, almost a year from the time the seeds are placed in the ground. At first, only a small sprout will be visible, which will build up the root system. Each year, the alder seedlings will begin to extend 0.5-1 m in height. If seedlings are sown in seed boxes, it is recommended that they be picked into separate containers after the third leaf has emerged, and that they can be planted out in the open air after one year.
The seeds need to be stratified at 1 - 5° for 6 months.
If sown in the spring, you will have to wait for sprouts to appear, almost a year from the time the seeds are placed in the ground. At first, only a small sprout will be visible, which will build up the root system. Each year, the alder seedlings will begin to extend 0.5-1 m in height. If seedlings are sown in seed boxes, it is recommended that they be picked into separate containers after the third leaf has emerged, and that they can be planted out in the open air after one year.
The seeds need to be stratified at 1 - 5° for 6 months.
The seeds are sown in early spring. Soak the seeds in warm water one day before sowing.
A substrate of sand and peat is poured into a container, then the seeds are pressed slightly into the soil and moistened with a sprayer.
The container should then be wrapped in a polythene bag or film to create mini-hothouse conditions, where high temperature and humidity will be maintained (heat and humidity are the main criteria for the normal growth of adult specimens of Sitnik). The container should be kept in semi-shaded conditions.
The container should be ventilated regularly and the substrate should always be slightly moist. As soon as the seedlings have their first leaves, remove the polythene and gradually accustom the plants to the air. As the seedlings mature, once they have grown to three true leaves, they can be potted into separate pots and it is advisable to plant several in one container to achieve a beautiful and lush bush in the future. One year later, the plants can be replanted again in larger pots. Only in the third year of development can the young plants be transplanted to a permanent location in the open ground.
A substrate of sand and peat is poured into a container, then the seeds are pressed slightly into the soil and moistened with a sprayer.
The container should then be wrapped in a polythene bag or film to create mini-hothouse conditions, where high temperature and humidity will be maintained (heat and humidity are the main criteria for the normal growth of adult specimens of Sitnik). The container should be kept in semi-shaded conditions.
The container should be ventilated regularly and the substrate should always be slightly moist. As soon as the seedlings have their first leaves, remove the polythene and gradually accustom the plants to the air. As the seedlings mature, once they have grown to three true leaves, they can be potted into separate pots and it is advisable to plant several in one container to achieve a beautiful and lush bush in the future. One year later, the plants can be replanted again in larger pots. Only in the third year of development can the young plants be transplanted to a permanent location in the open ground.
Store the seeds in a cool, dry room in a tightly closed bag or glass dish. The sowing depth is 0.5 cm. Seeds should be sown under snow; spring sowing requires cold stratification for 3-4 months at 0-3°C. It grows very quickly, with an annual growth rate of up to half a metre.
Before planting, the fruit should either be soaked for 24 hours in cold water, or scarified with gibberellic acid for 30-60 minutes after thinning the membrane. Before planting, the fruit should either be soaked for 24 hours in cold water, or scarified with gibberellic acid for 30-60 minutes. The seeds should then be stratified for 1-2 months at 3-5°C. Scarification is more important than cold stratification to increase seed germination. Prepare loose soil consisting of one part sand and two parts humus. It is important that the soil is not too dry. If the soil is dry, spray it well with a sprayer, stirring gradually. Sow to a depth of 1 cm. Germinate at a minimum temperature of 17 °C and keep the soil moist at all times.
Seeds need to be stratified at 5° for 4-5 months.
Loach is generally undemanding to the soil conditions and can grow even on salt marshes, as long as the soils are light and well-drained; sandy loam and loamy soils are optimum. Excessive moisture and high groundwater levels are not acceptable.
Salix is a photophilous plant and should therefore be planted in an open, well-lit and, in regions to the north of its natural range, also well protected from the wind. To obtain large harvests, it is advisable to plant three or four specimens, although a single plant may also bear fruit.
It has been found that without prior stratification, loch seeds will not germinate. Therefore, when propagating by seeds, after harvesting the fruit, wash the seeds from the pulp two days later and store them in a paper bag in a cool room until they are stratified. In October, they are mixed with wet river sand, peat, moss or sawdust (also moist) and kept at 0.5 to 1.5°C for five months (e.g. from October to March), buried 20 to 30 centimetres deep in the soil before sowing, so that they can also be covered with snow.
One month before sowing, the seeds are dug out, spread out together with the substrate in a thin layer onto polyethylene foil and constantly moistened. When the seeds have sprouted, they are sown, but it is better to sow them first in a greenhouse or in boxes. In the first year, the seedlings will grow to 30-50 centimetres. They are transplanted to a permanent place after they have formed 3-4 shoots and the length of the root system reaches 20-22 centimetres. By the autumn of the second year, the seedlings can be transplanted to a permanent location. Under natural stratification conditions, with winter sowing, germination depends on changing weather conditions that are not always favourable for the plant. As a result, it can be very low.
Loach is generally undemanding to the soil conditions and can grow even on salt marshes, as long as the soils are light and well-drained; sandy loam and loamy soils are optimum. Excessive moisture and high groundwater levels are not acceptable.
Salix is a photophilous plant and should therefore be planted in an open, well-lit and, in regions to the north of its natural range, also well protected from the wind. To obtain large harvests, it is advisable to plant three or four specimens, although a single plant may also bear fruit.
It has been found that without prior stratification, loch seeds will not germinate. Therefore, when propagating by seeds, after harvesting the fruit, wash the seeds from the pulp two days later and store them in a paper bag in a cool room until they are stratified. In October, they are mixed with wet river sand, peat, moss or sawdust (also moist) and kept at 0.5 to 1.5°C for five months (e.g. from October to March), buried 20 to 30 centimetres deep in the soil before sowing, so that they can also be covered with snow.
One month before sowing, the seeds are dug out, spread out together with the substrate in a thin layer onto polyethylene foil and constantly moistened. When the seeds have sprouted, they are sown, but it is better to sow them first in a greenhouse or in boxes. In the first year, the seedlings will grow to 30-50 centimetres. They are transplanted to a permanent place after they have formed 3-4 shoots and the length of the root system reaches 20-22 centimetres. By the autumn of the second year, the seedlings can be transplanted to a permanent location. Under natural stratification conditions, with winter sowing, germination depends on changing weather conditions that are not always favourable for the plant. As a result, it can be very low.
Under the winter:
Sow them in the open ground in the winter (October-November) to a depth of 1-2 cm at a distance of 10-15 cm from each other. Cover the seedlings with sawdust, dry leaves or peat.
In spring:
If seeds are sown in spring, do so immediately after the soil thaws. There is no need to freeze the seeds. Prepared seeds can be used for cultivation. The seeds should be placed in cold water for 24 hours before planting. The seeds should then be drained and wrapped in cold gauze for 4-5 days. As soon as the petals begin to appear, the laconos seeds can be planted in the containers and watered periodically. Dig small furrows 1 to 2 cm deep in the prepared soil and plant the seeds in them, covering them with soil. The distance between the seeds should be at least one metre. Immediately afterwards, water the seeds with cool water.
It is best to plant the laconos in loose soil. This will allow the seeds and shrubs to take root faster in the new location. It is best to choose a wind-protected, sunny location for planting. In a darkened place, the laconos will also bloom, but much more slowly.
Sow them in the open ground in the winter (October-November) to a depth of 1-2 cm at a distance of 10-15 cm from each other. Cover the seedlings with sawdust, dry leaves or peat.
In spring:
If seeds are sown in spring, do so immediately after the soil thaws. There is no need to freeze the seeds. Prepared seeds can be used for cultivation. The seeds should be placed in cold water for 24 hours before planting. The seeds should then be drained and wrapped in cold gauze for 4-5 days. As soon as the petals begin to appear, the laconos seeds can be planted in the containers and watered periodically. Dig small furrows 1 to 2 cm deep in the prepared soil and plant the seeds in them, covering them with soil. The distance between the seeds should be at least one metre. Immediately afterwards, water the seeds with cool water.
It is best to plant the laconos in loose soil. This will allow the seeds and shrubs to take root faster in the new location. It is best to choose a wind-protected, sunny location for planting. In a darkened place, the laconos will also bloom, but much more slowly.
An unpretentious, water-loving shrub that grows quickly in damp soils. Grown from seed in the same way as spireas: surface seeding, spraying, film on top without contact with the surface. Seeded densely, as seedlings emerge I will pick them into individual cups or into a common container more sparsely.
The seeds are sown in the autumn. For spring sowing, cold stratification at +1+10°C (optimum +5°C) for 2-3 months is necessary; this can be replaced by treatment with sulphuric acid. In the middle of Russia, preserving seedlings in the open ground is problematic.
To speed up the emergence of shoots, the seeds will need to be prepared before sowing. Before sowing, they are immersed in boiling water for a few seconds. Once the seeds have been removed from the boiling water, they are immersed in very cold water. With this procedure, damage is created on the surface of the dense outer shell, and the liquid can easily reach the germ. Instead, the seed can be scarified by filing the skin of the bean. The seeds are sown in containers filled with substrate consisting of sand and peat and can also be sown in a greenhouse. The seeds should be sown to a depth of 0.5-1 cm during the first days of May. Make sure the temperature of the substrate in the container is about 20-23 degrees to increase the chances of successful seedling emergence. The first seedlings usually germinate about half a month after sowing. Plant the seedlings without covering, remembering to moisten the substrate in good time. In summer, the grown seedlings are taken out to the garden plot. It will remain there until the next spring period. The seedlings can then be transplanted to a permanent location.
Although it is tolerant of climatic changes, it does best in bright and wind-protected areas. Special attention should also be paid to the soil. It is best planted in nutritious soil.
Plant the seeds in late summer. At this time, the seeds will germinate quickly and will develop quickly. Autumn and spring planting will not produce the desired result. Sown ash seeds must necessarily be covered for the winter. A special agrofoil is used for this purpose. Sow ash seeds only in previously prepared furrows. They should be placed at a depth of about 5 cm. Approximate consumption of planting material is 8 g per 1 m2. Fertilizing the soil is not necessary. Carefully fill the furrows with soil and lightly compact them. Water generously on top.
If everything is done correctly, the first sprouts will appear in the middle of May. Taking care of the seedlings is easy enough. To make them grow quickly and be beautiful, they need to be watered systematically. Water should only be at room temperature and not boiled. The liquid must be free from impurities. Loosening the soil is also very important. This is an important step in the care of young ash trees. Loosen the soil 4 to 6 times throughout the summer season.
Plant the seeds in late summer. At this time, the seeds will germinate quickly and will develop quickly. Autumn and spring planting will not produce the desired result. Sown ash seeds must necessarily be covered for the winter. A special agrofoil is used for this purpose. Sow ash seeds only in previously prepared furrows. They should be placed at a depth of about 5 cm. Approximate consumption of planting material is 8 g per 1 m2. Fertilizing the soil is not necessary. Carefully fill the furrows with soil and lightly compact them. Water generously on top.
If everything is done correctly, the first sprouts will appear in the middle of May. Taking care of the seedlings is easy enough. To make them grow quickly and be beautiful, they need to be watered systematically. Water should only be at room temperature and not boiled. The liquid must be free from impurities. Loosening the soil is also very important. This is an important step in the care of young ash trees. Loosen the soil 4 to 6 times throughout the summer season.
Seeds disinfected with a 5 per cent copper sulphate solution are mixed with 1:3 wet river sand and stored in sacks (gauze), indoors at a temperature of at least +15° C˚ with constant moistening and stirring. This process takes six months.
It is advisable to scarify the seeds before sowing. At home, the seeds can be scarified by subjecting them to sharply varying temperatures, first by immersing them in ice-cold water for a few minutes and then, for the same time, in steep boiling water. The procedure is repeated three to five times. The effect of alternating temperatures on the seed coat is considerably inferior to concentrated acids, but nevertheless also reduces the stratification period and promotes faster germination of the seeds. Just before sowing, it is useful to soak the seeds for a day in a solution of epin or zircon (1 ampoule per 2 litres of water).
Also before sowing you can soak the seeds in a solution of 5 grams of ammonium molybdenum acid, 4 grams of zinc sulphate, 10 ml of carbolic acid (5% solution), 1 ml of formalin (10% solution), a glass of water.
A mixture of equal parts turf and leaf soil with the addition of neutralised peat and sand, or ready-made soil with a neutral or - preferably - slightly alkaline reaction is used for sowing. The main thing is that the acidity of the soil should be no lower than 7, as young cotoneaster plants react extremely negatively to even slight acidity. Prolonged cultivation even on slightly acidic substrates will initially have a depressing effect on seedlings, inhibiting their growth and development, and then leading to death. The reason for this is that plants are naturally confined to calcareous soils and are unable to absorb nutrients in acidic media. The germination period of cotoneaster seeds is very extended in time; when the first sprouts appear, sow them in the brightest place possible; if they appear in late winter or early spring, they should be given extra light.
It is advisable to scarify the seeds before sowing. At home, the seeds can be scarified by subjecting them to sharply varying temperatures, first by immersing them in ice-cold water for a few minutes and then, for the same time, in steep boiling water. The procedure is repeated three to five times. The effect of alternating temperatures on the seed coat is considerably inferior to concentrated acids, but nevertheless also reduces the stratification period and promotes faster germination of the seeds. Just before sowing, it is useful to soak the seeds for a day in a solution of epin or zircon (1 ampoule per 2 litres of water).
Also before sowing you can soak the seeds in a solution of 5 grams of ammonium molybdenum acid, 4 grams of zinc sulphate, 10 ml of carbolic acid (5% solution), 1 ml of formalin (10% solution), a glass of water.
A mixture of equal parts turf and leaf soil with the addition of neutralised peat and sand, or ready-made soil with a neutral or - preferably - slightly alkaline reaction is used for sowing. The main thing is that the acidity of the soil should be no lower than 7, as young cotoneaster plants react extremely negatively to even slight acidity. Prolonged cultivation even on slightly acidic substrates will initially have a depressing effect on seedlings, inhibiting their growth and development, and then leading to death. The reason for this is that plants are naturally confined to calcareous soils and are unable to absorb nutrients in acidic media. The germination period of cotoneaster seeds is very extended in time; when the first sprouts appear, sow them in the brightest place possible; if they appear in late winter or early spring, they should be given extra light.
Lime seeds should always be stratified before sowing and this should be done for 3-4 months in moist sand, wrapped in gauze and placed in the refrigerator. You can plant in the spring either directly in the ground (early May) or at home in boxes at any time, starting in February. The method of sowing at home is even preferable - seedlings are better, and as soon as the seedlings stretch to 10-15 cm can be transplanted into the ground - or into the bed for further growing in 1-2 years, or in a permanent place.
The soil for sowing lime trees should be loose and ventilated and a little peat or sawdust can be added. Gardeners also often add sand to the soil to loosen it. The seed is placed at a depth of 1-1.5 cm. At home you can safely sow up to 100 seeds into a box, with an average germination rate of 50-60%. After sowing, cover the box with cling film and place it in a warm place. Seeds germinate in 2-3 weeks - then the foil is removed, and the box is placed in a bright place - usually on a window sill on the sunny side.
Once the seedlings have grown strong enough and have gained strength, they no longer need to be covered. During germination, the ambient temperature should not be below twenty degrees. The seedlings should be exposed to sufficient sunlight in order to speed up photosynthesis.
Care measures for linden sprouts include obligatory loosening of the soil layer and timely watering. Three weeks after sprouting, it is essential to thin out the sprouts in order to get rid of any weak shoots. Then all the resulting plants should be planted in their own pots. This strengthens and grows them further. This measure requires soil similar in composition to that in which the seeds germinated.
When replanting the seedlings, the root system should be handled carefully as it is still quite weak and can be damaged.
When true warmth arrives in May, the seedlings are planted in an open area. This is usually in the garden. The linden tree also grows on infertile soils and can therefore be planted almost anywhere. Seedlings should preferably be planted in an area with a good fertile layer of soil and light. It is worth avoiding direct exposure to the midday sun on the linden leaves, as they may show signs of burning.
The water-loving linden is very demanding, especially at the seedling stage. It should therefore be periodically watered and loosened to allow oxygen to reach the roots. The linden tree should not be surrounded by weeds as they will inhibit its growth.
The soil for sowing lime trees should be loose and ventilated and a little peat or sawdust can be added. Gardeners also often add sand to the soil to loosen it. The seed is placed at a depth of 1-1.5 cm. At home you can safely sow up to 100 seeds into a box, with an average germination rate of 50-60%. After sowing, cover the box with cling film and place it in a warm place. Seeds germinate in 2-3 weeks - then the foil is removed, and the box is placed in a bright place - usually on a window sill on the sunny side.
Once the seedlings have grown strong enough and have gained strength, they no longer need to be covered. During germination, the ambient temperature should not be below twenty degrees. The seedlings should be exposed to sufficient sunlight in order to speed up photosynthesis.
Care measures for linden sprouts include obligatory loosening of the soil layer and timely watering. Three weeks after sprouting, it is essential to thin out the sprouts in order to get rid of any weak shoots. Then all the resulting plants should be planted in their own pots. This strengthens and grows them further. This measure requires soil similar in composition to that in which the seeds germinated.
When replanting the seedlings, the root system should be handled carefully as it is still quite weak and can be damaged.
When true warmth arrives in May, the seedlings are planted in an open area. This is usually in the garden. The linden tree also grows on infertile soils and can therefore be planted almost anywhere. Seedlings should preferably be planted in an area with a good fertile layer of soil and light. It is worth avoiding direct exposure to the midday sun on the linden leaves, as they may show signs of burning.
The water-loving linden is very demanding, especially at the seedling stage. It should therefore be periodically watered and loosened to allow oxygen to reach the roots. The linden tree should not be surrounded by weeds as they will inhibit its growth.
Seeds need to be stratified in two stages: I. at 20 - 30°C
for 2 months, II at 5° for 2 months. The best time for sowing is in late autumn or early spring. Before sowing, fertilize the area and dig it well. Leave the seeds 2-3 months before sowing in a special substratum for stratification at +5°C. This is a mixture of sand, moss, sawdust and peat. The seed to substrate ratio is 1:4. Sow freshly harvested seeds in the autumn and do not need to be stratified, this will pass naturally. The sowing depth should not exceed 5 cm. Water the seeds regularly and weed them. If planted correctly, white sod will grow to its maximum size in 5-8 years. When the seedlings have grown to 50-70 cm in height, they can be transplanted to a permanent location.
for 2 months, II at 5° for 2 months. The best time for sowing is in late autumn or early spring. Before sowing, fertilize the area and dig it well. Leave the seeds 2-3 months before sowing in a special substratum for stratification at +5°C. This is a mixture of sand, moss, sawdust and peat. The seed to substrate ratio is 1:4. Sow freshly harvested seeds in the autumn and do not need to be stratified, this will pass naturally. The sowing depth should not exceed 5 cm. Water the seeds regularly and weed them. If planted correctly, white sod will grow to its maximum size in 5-8 years. When the seedlings have grown to 50-70 cm in height, they can be transplanted to a permanent location.
Seeds must be stratified for 3-6 months before planting. after keeping them in the refrigerator at +2-+5 C in a container with wet sand /perlite/ moss. Before planting, the seed shell can be slightly sawn and soaked in hot water for a day.
Treatment with kinetin stimulates the growth of the embryo and seeds without pericarp.
Sowing is carried out superficially, only slightly covering the seeds with soil and moistening. Part of the seedlings appear in the second spring from sowing.
Maple develops best in a mixture that includes 3 parts of humus, 2 parts of turf and part of sand. The acidity of the soil can vary from 6 to 7.5. If the land on the site is not nutritious enough, nitrogen fertilizer is applied to the hole when planting.
Treatment with kinetin stimulates the growth of the embryo and seeds without pericarp.
Sowing is carried out superficially, only slightly covering the seeds with soil and moistening. Part of the seedlings appear in the second spring from sowing.
Maple develops best in a mixture that includes 3 parts of humus, 2 parts of turf and part of sand. The acidity of the soil can vary from 6 to 7.5. If the land on the site is not nutritious enough, nitrogen fertilizer is applied to the hole when planting.
Seeds need to be stratified at 5° for 3-4 months.
The best time for sowing is in the autumn, but if planted in the spring, the seeds need to be pre-stratified. To speed up germination, place the seeds in a refrigerator for 3-4 months, or put them in a bag and cover with snow.
Autumn sowing is done in open soil up to 3.5 cm deep. The seedling is covered with polyethylene film. With the onset of spring, the seeds are moved into a container with a light soil mixture to an identical depth. When three pairs of leaves have emerged, the young plants need to be nested. Before planting, they should be hardened in the fresh air every day and the procedure should be gradually extended. Vesicle seed can be propagated into seedbeds during spring sowing. The seeds should be placed on the ground and mulched with peat or humus.
If the weather conditions are dry, it will be necessary to cover the seeds with plastic sheeting or other material in order to create a special microclimate. When the vesicle shoots emerge, these should be thinned out to a maximum of two dozen young plants per metre. For planting in autumn or spring, you will need acidified or neutral soil and a location with good natural light or semi-shade. The size of the planting hole should be considerably larger than the size of the seedling's root ball. Place compost, decomposted leaves and peat at the bottom.
Place the young vesicle in the centre of the hole and cover its roots with a layer of soil. The root neck should be bury to a length of 5 to 6 cm.
When planting single plants, maintain a distance of at least 2 metres between them.
Seedlings require follow-up care consisting of shaping and pruning the shrub, regular watering (a rooted plant needs about 40 litres twice a week), fertilisation with the onset of the season and after flowering.
The best time for sowing is in the autumn, but if planted in the spring, the seeds need to be pre-stratified. To speed up germination, place the seeds in a refrigerator for 3-4 months, or put them in a bag and cover with snow.
Autumn sowing is done in open soil up to 3.5 cm deep. The seedling is covered with polyethylene film. With the onset of spring, the seeds are moved into a container with a light soil mixture to an identical depth. When three pairs of leaves have emerged, the young plants need to be nested. Before planting, they should be hardened in the fresh air every day and the procedure should be gradually extended. Vesicle seed can be propagated into seedbeds during spring sowing. The seeds should be placed on the ground and mulched with peat or humus.
If the weather conditions are dry, it will be necessary to cover the seeds with plastic sheeting or other material in order to create a special microclimate. When the vesicle shoots emerge, these should be thinned out to a maximum of two dozen young plants per metre. For planting in autumn or spring, you will need acidified or neutral soil and a location with good natural light or semi-shade. The size of the planting hole should be considerably larger than the size of the seedling's root ball. Place compost, decomposted leaves and peat at the bottom.
Place the young vesicle in the centre of the hole and cover its roots with a layer of soil. The root neck should be bury to a length of 5 to 6 cm.
When planting single plants, maintain a distance of at least 2 metres between them.
Seedlings require follow-up care consisting of shaping and pruning the shrub, regular watering (a rooted plant needs about 40 litres twice a week), fertilisation with the onset of the season and after flowering.
Propagating Eleutherococcus from seed is not difficult.
Pre-planting preparation is compulsory and involves the following steps:
With the onset of September, any sack or container is taken and filled with damp sand;
The planting material is placed in the damp sand and kept there for five months at a temperature of +18 to +20 degrees;
During this time, the sand should be moist and the room in which it is placed should be well ventilated;
After five months, the sack or container with the seeds is placed in the refrigerator, where they will freeze at a temperature of +4 degree for the next three months.
It is worth taking the matter of planting seeds seriously and observing certain rules, which are as follows
-Prepared seeds for planting should be planted directly to the selected and prepared plot;
-The place for planting should be in the light shade;
-The soil should be nutritious;
-The area to be planted should be dug out and free of weeds and rubbish;
-Make small furrows in the soil with a depth of not more than one centimetre and place the seeds in these furrows;
-The soil is watered immediately, and then the procedure is repeated over time to ensure that the soil is constantly moist;
Not all seeds will germinate in the first year. Many may sprout after two years;
Young shoots grow and develop at the planting site for the first three years. After that, the shrubs can be transplanted to a new prepared area;
The first flowers can be produced after four years with this method of planting.
Pre-planting preparation is compulsory and involves the following steps:
With the onset of September, any sack or container is taken and filled with damp sand;
The planting material is placed in the damp sand and kept there for five months at a temperature of +18 to +20 degrees;
During this time, the sand should be moist and the room in which it is placed should be well ventilated;
After five months, the sack or container with the seeds is placed in the refrigerator, where they will freeze at a temperature of +4 degree for the next three months.
It is worth taking the matter of planting seeds seriously and observing certain rules, which are as follows
-Prepared seeds for planting should be planted directly to the selected and prepared plot;
-The place for planting should be in the light shade;
-The soil should be nutritious;
-The area to be planted should be dug out and free of weeds and rubbish;
-Make small furrows in the soil with a depth of not more than one centimetre and place the seeds in these furrows;
-The soil is watered immediately, and then the procedure is repeated over time to ensure that the soil is constantly moist;
Not all seeds will germinate in the first year. Many may sprout after two years;
Young shoots grow and develop at the planting site for the first three years. After that, the shrubs can be transplanted to a new prepared area;
The first flowers can be produced after four years with this method of planting.
An adult oriental sycamore can withstand short-term frosts as low as -27°C without damage. In a sheltered location, in a forest plantation, it can withstand more than -30°C. The northern border of sycamore cultivation runs along the border Riga - Minsk - Kharkiv. The eastern plane tree prefers neutral, unconsolidated soils, full sunshine, long summers and a warm autumn. It does not thrive in clay soils with high freezing temperatures. Froze to the ground, producing abundant stump growth. The sycamore tree looks excellent in solitary and alley planting. When planting sycamore trees in the area it should be remembered that they give a large shade and a spreading crown, which by the age of 50 years can reach 15 m. It is therefore better to plant the sycamore tree in a warm, bright far corner of the plot, where you plan to create a summer sitting area. In hot regions, sycamore trees are often planted near water sources so that their shade protects them from drying out.
Planting and care:
Many myths exist with the difficulty of growing sycamore from seed. To get seedlings, you have to harvest the sycamore fruit from October to March and peel it. The result will be a lot of small seeds with fluff and an axial "spine". The seeds are sown without stratification in March, but can be sown throughout the spring. Store in a dry, cold place until sown. The potting soil is made from black earth (slightly worse than peat) and sand in a 1:1 or 2:1 ratio. The seeds can first be soaked for half a day in cold water or kept in a damp cloth for 24 hours. The seeds should be sown superficially and can be lightly covered with soil. At home under a film the roots will germinate in 5-7 days and shoots will appear in 2-3 weeks. Make sure that the soil is constantly moist. In the first year, the seedlings will only grow 10-15 cm. The first overwintering of the seedlings is best done at +2+7°C, in the cellar.
Planting and care:
Many myths exist with the difficulty of growing sycamore from seed. To get seedlings, you have to harvest the sycamore fruit from October to March and peel it. The result will be a lot of small seeds with fluff and an axial "spine". The seeds are sown without stratification in March, but can be sown throughout the spring. Store in a dry, cold place until sown. The potting soil is made from black earth (slightly worse than peat) and sand in a 1:1 or 2:1 ratio. The seeds can first be soaked for half a day in cold water or kept in a damp cloth for 24 hours. The seeds should be sown superficially and can be lightly covered with soil. At home under a film the roots will germinate in 5-7 days and shoots will appear in 2-3 weeks. Make sure that the soil is constantly moist. In the first year, the seedlings will only grow 10-15 cm. The first overwintering of the seedlings is best done at +2+7°C, in the cellar.
Gleditsia is undemanding, tolerates drought easily, prefers direct sunlight and loose soils (it grows even on poor sands), as the root system is deep and needs good aeration. On cold damp clay soils it will suffer. In this case it is worth planting gleditsia on uplands with a southern slope. This species can even grow on saline soils. Gleditsia is wind-tolerant and in southern Russia and Ukraine it is used as a drought-tolerant windbreak. According to precise data, the Gleditsia ordinaryis tolerates well the winters of Minsk, Gomel, Orel, Samara (if there is no wind, it can withstand frosts of -35oC without damage). It is possible to grow gleditsia from seeds; in this case, the seeds do not need to be stratified and can be easily stored in a dry state for several years and will survive sub-zero temperatures. In spring, soak the seeds in very warm water for a few hours (change the water periodically to warm). The seed should then increase in size by a factor of 2-3. If this does not happen after 3-4 hours soaking, the seeds will absorb the necessary water from the soil after sowing (the germination of gleditsia seeds is usually very high - over 90%). The seeds are sown in a standard mixture of peat (or black earth) and sand in a 1:2 or 1:3 ratio.
The seeds have a very hard seed coat. For faster germination, it needs to be damaged by sanding with a file, just enough to damage the integrity of a small section of the seed coat. If you are not in a hurry, you don't need to do this and you can soak the seeds in warm water for a day instead. Seed in pots or trays with all-purpose soil to a depth of about 1 cm. Cover the seed pot with plastic wrap and air it out daily to prevent mould. Store the newly planted seeds in a well-lit area and keep the soil moist. As soon as the first shoots appear, remove the foil. The seeds usually germinate in less than 4-6 weeks at 20-25°C.
The seeds have a very hard seed coat. For faster germination, it needs to be damaged by sanding with a file, just enough to damage the integrity of a small section of the seed coat. If you are not in a hurry, you don't need to do this and you can soak the seeds in warm water for a day instead. Seed in pots or trays with all-purpose soil to a depth of about 1 cm. Cover the seed pot with plastic wrap and air it out daily to prevent mould. Store the newly planted seeds in a well-lit area and keep the soil moist. As soon as the first shoots appear, remove the foil. The seeds usually germinate in less than 4-6 weeks at 20-25°C.
The tree is drought-tolerant and heat-loving. It suffers in regions with cold, damp summers. In windless weather, it can survive down to -25°C. Frost bites often form in the wind, causing branches to dry out and fungal infestations. So plant the koelreuteria in the sunniest place, where it will be protected on 2 or 3 sides from winter winds. Native to East Asia, the panicle is grown as a park plant not only in the southern regions, but also in the southern Midlands (in the northern Midlands it freezes to the snow level). And in eastern North America this tree is considered an invasive species. The species grows well on loose, breathable soils and does not tolerate flooding. On uplands on the southern side of a slope it will also grow successfully on loamy soils. On fertile soils, it will grow more than half a metre annually. Planting and care: stratification of seed varies greatly and can take from 2 weeks to 3 months. From personal experience, some seeds will germinate after 1 month of stratification if sown in mid-May, after the spring frost. Sprouts emerge at temperatures above +15°C, usually in 1-3 weeks (depending on the weather), but can take hold throughout the summer and the following year. Even in freestanding self-pollinated trees, seed germination is over 50%. Sod the seeds into the soil to a depth of 1-2 cm. For the soil mixture, take 1 part peat or chernozem and 2-3 parts sand. Seedlings are very frost-sensitive and for the next 2 winters it will be worth covering them with a shelter of clinging boards or fleece and filling the inside with straw. When growing in a pot for the first two years, it is best to sow in a 5-litre container at once, as the seedlings will develop rapidly. As the plant is distinctly seasonal, potted seedlings should always be kept in a cool place (balcony, cellar) for the winter with moderate watering (once every 2-3 weeks).
Seeds need to be stratified at 5° for 1-3 months.
Germination improves in light. Can be planted in spring or under the winter.
The plant is adapted to shaded areas. In the natural environment it grows in coniferous forests where it occupies the middle layer. Because of this it rarely flowers and propagates vegetatively by spreading shoots on the ground. But the long-lived forest dwarf will also flower and grow vigorously in sunny locations. Pruning is not an issue for the plant, it can take any shape. The best use of honeysuckle in the garden is as a hedge. It will grow densely, protecting the area from dust, wind and unwanted guests. When planting, maintain a distance of at least 1.5-2 m between individual plants. Honeysuckle neighbours should tolerate semi-shade or shade, require little maintenance and be covered for the winter (but young plants should better be covered).
Germination improves in light. Can be planted in spring or under the winter.
The plant is adapted to shaded areas. In the natural environment it grows in coniferous forests where it occupies the middle layer. Because of this it rarely flowers and propagates vegetatively by spreading shoots on the ground. But the long-lived forest dwarf will also flower and grow vigorously in sunny locations. Pruning is not an issue for the plant, it can take any shape. The best use of honeysuckle in the garden is as a hedge. It will grow densely, protecting the area from dust, wind and unwanted guests. When planting, maintain a distance of at least 1.5-2 m between individual plants. Honeysuckle neighbours should tolerate semi-shade or shade, require little maintenance and be covered for the winter (but young plants should better be covered).
Two-stage stratification is recommended: I. at room temperature for 5 months, II. at 5° for 6 months. In addition, stratification at 8°C for 12 months or under the snow is recommended.
The seeds are planted on the surface in flower pots or in balcony boxes. The seeds will be lightly sanded and pressed into the soil. The pots should be covered with glass or film to create a kind of greenhouse. Water the seedbeds regularly and carefully, so that a strong stream of water will not wash out the seedlings.
If the procedure is done in autumn, the seeds will have germinated by the planting season of the following year and can be planted in the open ground. If the seed is introduced into the soil in spring, it is moved into the greenhouse in March-April. The confident green shoots are transferred into the soil as early as June.
The seeds are planted on the surface in flower pots or in balcony boxes. The seeds will be lightly sanded and pressed into the soil. The pots should be covered with glass or film to create a kind of greenhouse. Water the seedbeds regularly and carefully, so that a strong stream of water will not wash out the seedlings.
If the procedure is done in autumn, the seeds will have germinated by the planting season of the following year and can be planted in the open ground. If the seed is introduced into the soil in spring, it is moved into the greenhouse in March-April. The confident green shoots are transferred into the soil as early as June.
Stratification is not necessary. The seeds should be scalded with boiling water before sowing, then dipped in cold water several times. You can also pour boiling water over the seeds and leave them to cool down. Repeat with undiluted seeds. Sow to a depth of 0.5-1 cm. It feels best in poor soils, including sandy and calcareous ones. Fertile soils inhibit the plant's development. The main condition for ornamental effect of yeast is good light; it tolerates shading, but flowers much less effectively. It can withstand being inundated by melt water, but will die if the soil is constantly over-watered.
Sowing in the spring will require the seeds to be pre-stratified for at least 3 months. To do this, cover the seeds with damp sand and place them in the refrigerator.
If the seeds have not undergone natural stratification, soak them in hot (+500°C) water for 3-4 days before sowing. The water should be changed 2-3 times a day.
The swollen seeds are sown into moist, nutritious soil to a depth of 2-3 cm. The addition of phosphate fertiliser and potassium permanganate to the soil will significantly accelerate the growth of the seedlings. Sprouted, the following year, the seedlings quickly gain in growth, actively developing the root system. Sprouts of Amur velvet, grown from seed, adapt perfectly to the local climate, becoming more resistant and hardy. For the successful growth and development of seedlings, it is important to ensure regular watering, loosening and mulching of the soil on the plot. The growing tree is negatively affected by compaction and lack of aeration in the soil.
If the seeds have not undergone natural stratification, soak them in hot (+500°C) water for 3-4 days before sowing. The water should be changed 2-3 times a day.
The swollen seeds are sown into moist, nutritious soil to a depth of 2-3 cm. The addition of phosphate fertiliser and potassium permanganate to the soil will significantly accelerate the growth of the seedlings. Sprouted, the following year, the seedlings quickly gain in growth, actively developing the root system. Sprouts of Amur velvet, grown from seed, adapt perfectly to the local climate, becoming more resistant and hardy. For the successful growth and development of seedlings, it is important to ensure regular watering, loosening and mulching of the soil on the plot. The growing tree is negatively affected by compaction and lack of aeration in the soil.
For stratification, take a glass of sand - moisten it a little - mix it with acorns and put it in a polythene bag, making a couple of holes in the bottom with an awl for air access. Some put in a damp cloth, someone in the moss-sphagnum, someone in the ground, many options - fit of course and perlite, but one important thing - it must be slightly moist and cold, so put it all on the bottom shelf of the refrigerator for 1-3 months. After a month do not look whether the acorn roots went out and as soon as half of them appear, put them in a box with soil, or cups. So if you buy seeds in say November you will be sowing them at home in January - this cannot be avoided - you will not save them until spring and thus the acorns will grow on your windowsill. If it's north-side you need extra light, if it's south-side it's enough of winter natural light.
Seed to a depth of no more than 2s-more than it makes no sense - the roots will go down and they need up to 10 cm, so fill the pots, cups or boxes to the edges at once. You can take any kind of earth - either store-bought or own - and do not pour it over - oak roots do not like to over-wet. By May you will have 20-25 cm tall oaks with good roots, which are usually planted in seedbeds for one year's cultivation. You can plant straight away to a permanent location - the main thing is to remember where to remove tall grass and not to mow it yourself. By the end of the second year, oak will be 50-60 cm and now you can transplant to a permanent place - oak likes sunny, without stagnant water, the earth is particularly undemanding, easily tolerates loam.
Seed to a depth of no more than 2s-more than it makes no sense - the roots will go down and they need up to 10 cm, so fill the pots, cups or boxes to the edges at once. You can take any kind of earth - either store-bought or own - and do not pour it over - oak roots do not like to over-wet. By May you will have 20-25 cm tall oaks with good roots, which are usually planted in seedbeds for one year's cultivation. You can plant straight away to a permanent location - the main thing is to remember where to remove tall grass and not to mow it yourself. By the end of the second year, oak will be 50-60 cm and now you can transplant to a permanent place - oak likes sunny, without stagnant water, the earth is particularly undemanding, easily tolerates loam.
The seeds do not need to be stratified (kept in cold conditions for some time), but they are subjected to scarification because of their hard shell. In this process, the woody coating of the seed is destroyed. This is done very carefully so as not to damage the surface of the inner part. A sharpened knife or sandpaper is used for scarification. Often, instead of soaking the seeds for about 24 hours in warm water, which is periodically changed so that it does not cool until the seeds are well swollen and begin to germinate, or use sulfuric acid, in which the soaking time is reduced to 1.5-2 hours (if concentrated, only 10 minutes is enough).
Once the seeds have been soaked, they are washed well under running water, dried slightly and then planted in pots filled with peat-sandy soil.
The embedment depth will be 3 cm. Alternatively, when the soil in the garden warms up well in April or May, you can sow bunting seeds in the open soil.
However, don't expect results too quickly since it will take a long time before any shoots will be visible.
Only move young seedlings from their pots into the open ground during the dormancy period, which should not be coinciding with flowering or fruiting.
The soil should be fertilised with organic products.
There is evidence of seed sowing in the arboretum of the Botanical Garden of the Moldavian Academy of Sciences, when the seeds were stratified. For two months, the seeds were kept at the heat of 0-5 degrees Celsius, after which they were simultaneously germinating at a rate of nearly 100 %.
To avoid rotting during the stratification process, the seeds are thoroughly mixed with coarse dry sand and care is taken not to allow them to touch each other.
It is important to keep the height of the sand layer mixed with the seeds to a maximum of 30 cm.
The seeds are also sown late - late April or May, depending on the condition of the soil, it should be well warmed.
Once the seeds have been soaked, they are washed well under running water, dried slightly and then planted in pots filled with peat-sandy soil.
The embedment depth will be 3 cm. Alternatively, when the soil in the garden warms up well in April or May, you can sow bunting seeds in the open soil.
However, don't expect results too quickly since it will take a long time before any shoots will be visible.
Only move young seedlings from their pots into the open ground during the dormancy period, which should not be coinciding with flowering or fruiting.
The soil should be fertilised with organic products.
There is evidence of seed sowing in the arboretum of the Botanical Garden of the Moldavian Academy of Sciences, when the seeds were stratified. For two months, the seeds were kept at the heat of 0-5 degrees Celsius, after which they were simultaneously germinating at a rate of nearly 100 %.
To avoid rotting during the stratification process, the seeds are thoroughly mixed with coarse dry sand and care is taken not to allow them to touch each other.
It is important to keep the height of the sand layer mixed with the seeds to a maximum of 30 cm.
The seeds are also sown late - late April or May, depending on the condition of the soil, it should be well warmed.
Place the seeds between two cotton pads (gauze or paper towels can be used) and place them on a saucer, cover with room temperature water and a plastic bag. Put the saucer in a warm place for 5-7 days so that the seeds can soak up the moisture and germinate more quickly. After that, proceed with sowing in the soil. Spread the seeds on the surface of loose, fertile soil and cover with a small layer of soil and water. It is also possible to spread the seeds without covering them with soil, but in such a case, the seeds should be sprinkled daily to keep them moist. The pot should have drainage holes and drainage. Place the pot in a well-lit area. The optimum temperature for germination is 24-28°C. Cover the pot with clear plastic and air it out for 15 minutes each day. Keep the soil moist. Once the seedlings have germinated, remove the polythene from the pot. Avoid exposing the young plants to direct sunlight throughout the day. Sprouts emerge in 1-2 weeks and look like radish. When 2-3 true leaves have emerged, the catalpa seedlings will be pickled. When the plant has grown, transplant it to an open soil or a larger pot.
The plant needs an intense source of light but will also thrive in the penumbra. If there is insufficient light, the foliage will become more dull and stunted and fewer inflorescences will be produced. Planting the plant in sandy loam soil promotes active growth, but it can be planted in any, even the heaviest soil. It is insensitive to both soil nutrition and acidity.
Caragana does not tolerate plenty of moisture or boggy areas. Extremely winter-hardy, but very young shoots may freeze slightly in severe frosts, in the absence of snow. These shrubs are undemanding with regard to care. Only young plants need fertiliser in the early years. Fertiliser should be applied in spring and only organic nutrients should be used. Frequent watering is not necessary, even during prolonged dry periods.
Planting:
The seeds should be sown into the substrate immediately after harvesting or already in the spring months. Soak them for 24 hours before planting. If the seeds are pre-stratified for 10-40 days at 1-5 degrees (in the lower shelf of a fridge, for example), they will already start to germinate at a heat rate of 10 degrees. The seeds are sown to a depth of 4-5 cm. The planted material should then be mulched with peat or sawdust. Sprouts will already be visible after a month. These seedlings will grow very slowly in the first years, but then they will grow faster. Once the first five years have passed, you can expect them to flower. However, in this case, the parental qualities of the Karaganah may be lost.
If the seeds are mature, they will start to germinate when the temperature is at least 25 degrees. Otherwise, they will germinate much more slowly and their germination will be reduced. If planted in late autumn, success will only be assured if the substrate is light.
Caragana does not tolerate plenty of moisture or boggy areas. Extremely winter-hardy, but very young shoots may freeze slightly in severe frosts, in the absence of snow. These shrubs are undemanding with regard to care. Only young plants need fertiliser in the early years. Fertiliser should be applied in spring and only organic nutrients should be used. Frequent watering is not necessary, even during prolonged dry periods.
Planting:
The seeds should be sown into the substrate immediately after harvesting or already in the spring months. Soak them for 24 hours before planting. If the seeds are pre-stratified for 10-40 days at 1-5 degrees (in the lower shelf of a fridge, for example), they will already start to germinate at a heat rate of 10 degrees. The seeds are sown to a depth of 4-5 cm. The planted material should then be mulched with peat or sawdust. Sprouts will already be visible after a month. These seedlings will grow very slowly in the first years, but then they will grow faster. Once the first five years have passed, you can expect them to flower. However, in this case, the parental qualities of the Karaganah may be lost.
If the seeds are mature, they will start to germinate when the temperature is at least 25 degrees. Otherwise, they will germinate much more slowly and their germination will be reduced. If planted in late autumn, success will only be assured if the substrate is light.
Ginkgo seeds can be sown indoors all year round. The seeds should be stratified before sowing. You will need a ziploc bag for this. Write the date on it, put sand or perlite in it and pour in some cold boiled water. The seeds can also be wrapped in a damp cotton cloth and placed in the ziploc bag. Put the bag with the seeds in the refrigerator for 1-3 months and then you can move on to planting. Check the seeds once a week for mould. If mould appears, rinse the seeds, take a clean ziploc bag and repeat the procedure. Once the stratification period is over, move on to planting. Plant the seeds in pots filled with moist, well-drained soil (a mixture of multi-purpose soil, peat and sand in a 2:2:1 ratio) . Press the seeds into the soil and lightly bury them on top. The seeds will then be moved to a warm place and watered and aired in good time. The ideal temperature at this time will be +20 - +25 °C. Germination normally takes 4-5 weeks, but more time may be required. Keep the soil moist, but not wet. Do not allow the seedlings to be exposed to direct sunlight.
The birch tree grows quite easily from seed at home, but care must be taken to ensure that the seedlings are not killed by fungus or other disease. The seeds should therefore be treated with manganese or water before they are placed in the soil. Manganese or hydrogen peroxide is used for this purpose. The seeds are soaked in a one per cent solution for about 20 minutes. They are then washed and dried. There are special industrial preparations that help protect the seedlings from fungi and viruses, strengthen the immunity of future plants and give the seedlings all the necessary nutrients.
Before planting, the seeds should always be treated with a cold treatment for spring planting. You can keep them for 3-4 weeks in the refrigerator and then dry them at room temperature. It is advisable to sow them into the frozen soil in early winter or early spring. Place the seeds directly on the surface without burying them, just cover them with a board. They can be pressed on top with small branches and watered. As soon as the first shoots appear, be sure to remove the cover. Sprouting of birch seeds also occurs independently, so do not be surprised if a young sprout suddenly appears on your plot in early summer. If it gets in the way, it can be carefully replanted in autumn in a more suitable location.
Before planting, the seeds should always be treated with a cold treatment for spring planting. You can keep them for 3-4 weeks in the refrigerator and then dry them at room temperature. It is advisable to sow them into the frozen soil in early winter or early spring. Place the seeds directly on the surface without burying them, just cover them with a board. They can be pressed on top with small branches and watered. As soon as the first shoots appear, be sure to remove the cover. Sprouting of birch seeds also occurs independently, so do not be surprised if a young sprout suddenly appears on your plot in early summer. If it gets in the way, it can be carefully replanted in autumn in a more suitable location.
Stratification is not necessary. Before sowing the seeds
are scalded with boiling water, then immersed in cold water and repeatedly. You can also pour boiling water over the seeds and leave them to cool down. Repeat with undiluted seeds. Sow to a depth of 0.5-1 cm.
It is quite easy to grow from seeds, for this purpose they are planted in boxes with good, loose and nutritious soil, in the spring time of the year. Soak the seeds for at least 10 hours in room temperature water and then place them in fairly shallow, moist soil. So that the seeds will germinate, it is necessary to maintain a temperature of about 20 degrees and a constant moisture content. Once the first shoots have sprouted and the sturdy leaves have appeared, the amorphus is transplanted to its individual container. Further cultivation of Amorpha shrubbery should be done in a pot and should not be planted outdoors for another year. In May it can be taken out into the garden in pots, but in anticipation of cold weather it should be moved indoors. The room itself should be cool, dark and dry, in the house or flat the shrub can be placed in a less lit part of the room, away from heat sources. Amorpha can be planted outdoors after a year as soon as the soil has warmed up and should be planted in a permanent location.
are scalded with boiling water, then immersed in cold water and repeatedly. You can also pour boiling water over the seeds and leave them to cool down. Repeat with undiluted seeds. Sow to a depth of 0.5-1 cm.
It is quite easy to grow from seeds, for this purpose they are planted in boxes with good, loose and nutritious soil, in the spring time of the year. Soak the seeds for at least 10 hours in room temperature water and then place them in fairly shallow, moist soil. So that the seeds will germinate, it is necessary to maintain a temperature of about 20 degrees and a constant moisture content. Once the first shoots have sprouted and the sturdy leaves have appeared, the amorphus is transplanted to its individual container. Further cultivation of Amorpha shrubbery should be done in a pot and should not be planted outdoors for another year. In May it can be taken out into the garden in pots, but in anticipation of cold weather it should be moved indoors. The room itself should be cool, dark and dry, in the house or flat the shrub can be placed in a less lit part of the room, away from heat sources. Amorpha can be planted outdoors after a year as soon as the soil has warmed up and should be planted in a permanent location.
Albizia seeds should be sown from late winter to mid-summer. Before planting, the seeds will need to be stratified and a 'hot' method is required - if the seed is large, it should be filed on one side with a file or file before planting and the seeds should then be soaked for 5-6 hours in water at around 60 degrees to allow them to swell. The seeds will then need to be sown to a depth of 3 mm and the container with the seeds placed in a mini-greenhouse with bottom heating. The germination temperature from the seeds should vary between 20-25 degrees.
Some growers recommend the usual 'cold' stratification before planting.
When the seedlings have grown sufficiently and have a couple of true leaves, they can be picked into separate pots with a diameter of 7.5 cm. During the winter, keep the seedlings at a temperature of 5 degrees. As soon as the threat of spring frost has passed, the albicia plants should be planted in the open soil at a distance of 2 m from each other. The growing area should be sunny and protected from the wind. The soil should be light, nutritious and well-drained.
Some growers recommend the usual 'cold' stratification before planting.
When the seedlings have grown sufficiently and have a couple of true leaves, they can be picked into separate pots with a diameter of 7.5 cm. During the winter, keep the seedlings at a temperature of 5 degrees. As soon as the threat of spring frost has passed, the albicia plants should be planted in the open soil at a distance of 2 m from each other. The growing area should be sunny and protected from the wind. The soil should be light, nutritious and well-drained.
The seeds need a long period of time to stratify. If they are sown in autumn, they can be stratified under natural conditions, but if they are to be sown in spring, they will need to be kept in the refrigerator for about two months. The place for planting is prepared in advance - you plough a ridge and add some humus. The seeds are sown to a depth of 3 cm. Some may take 2-3 years to germinate after sowing.
Propagating by seed requires more attention and patience. Under natural conditions, most seeds will not germinate until the second spring. Gardeners stratify seeds to speed up the germination process. Duration of stratification: first stage - 3-4 months at a temperature of +10 to +12 C; second stage - 4-5 months, the temperature decreases to 0 ... +3C. The seeds should swell well in these conditions. Carefully peel the seeds from the cracked dense skin, soak for 15 minutes in a weak solution of manganese, rinse.
Prepare crates or cups with fertile garden soil and a little sand (readymade seedling soil can be used).
The seeds should be sown to a depth of 2 cm.
Cover the seeds with cling film or glass.
Expect to germinate in 15-20 days, then remove the cover.
A slight reduction in temperature to 18°C will be beneficial for the plants to prevent them from being pulled out. Also provide good, diffuse lighting.
When the seedlings have grown, harden them two weeks before planting them in the ground. You can plant them in a training bed, and then transplant them to a permanent location when they reach a height of 25-30 cm. Be sure to cover them for the winter so that they do not freeze to death. The ideal soil composition is turf, sand, mulch and leaf soil (1:1:2:4). During cool weather (autumn and spring), a layer of peat mulch is required. In winter, be sure to cover the young shoots with spruce branches.
Prepare crates or cups with fertile garden soil and a little sand (readymade seedling soil can be used).
The seeds should be sown to a depth of 2 cm.
Cover the seeds with cling film or glass.
Expect to germinate in 15-20 days, then remove the cover.
A slight reduction in temperature to 18°C will be beneficial for the plants to prevent them from being pulled out. Also provide good, diffuse lighting.
When the seedlings have grown, harden them two weeks before planting them in the ground. You can plant them in a training bed, and then transplant them to a permanent location when they reach a height of 25-30 cm. Be sure to cover them for the winter so that they do not freeze to death. The ideal soil composition is turf, sand, mulch and leaf soil (1:1:2:4). During cool weather (autumn and spring), a layer of peat mulch is required. In winter, be sure to cover the young shoots with spruce branches.
Hall is recommended. stratiph. within 5-6 months or two-stage stratif.: I - in heat for 3 months, II - in the cold for 5-6 months.
It can be sown in winter under snow, it can be sown in spring after artificial stratification. Because of the hard shell, scarification is required: immerse the seeds in sulfuric acid for twenty minutes. Sowing seeds in open soil is carried out in spring or autumn, while they need to be deepened by only 20 mm. Crops for the winter do not need to be covered. The first seedlings will appear 12 months after sowing.
It can be sown in winter under snow, it can be sown in spring after artificial stratification. Because of the hard shell, scarification is required: immerse the seeds in sulfuric acid for twenty minutes. Sowing seeds in open soil is carried out in spring or autumn, while they need to be deepened by only 20 mm. Crops for the winter do not need to be covered. The first seedlings will appear 12 months after sowing.
Frost resistance up to -20-25 (maximum with short-term frosts).
Bamboo seeds are soaked for 12 hours in clean water before sowing. While they swell, prepare a nutrient mixture of 8 parts topsoil, 1 part fine wood shavings, and 1 part wood ash. Sift the mixture through a sieve, moisten and fill the cells in the cassette with it without compacting. Make a small hole 4-5 mm deep in each cell and place one bamboo seed in them (the seeds are removed from the water and blotted with a cloth 20 minutes before sowing) and plant the crops. The crops are covered with film, providing additional lighting for 12-16 hours and a constant temperature of 25-28C. The soil is kept moist, which will require spraying it twice a day. Bamboo seeds germinate very slowly, and seedlings can be expected only after 2-3.5 weeks. When the seedlings are 3-4 months old and they begin to form shoots, they are planted in separate containers filled with high-moor peat. From now on, bamboo is watered once a day, and it is better to do it in the evening. Seedlings are transplanted into open ground when they reach a height of 40-50 cm. However, it is desirable that young plants survive their first winter indoors, since in open ground they can freeze or die from lack of moisture. You can transfer them to a greenhouse or other unheated, but protected from frost and drafts room for the winter, and when the soil warms up, you can plant them in the garden.
Bamboo seeds are soaked for 12 hours in clean water before sowing. While they swell, prepare a nutrient mixture of 8 parts topsoil, 1 part fine wood shavings, and 1 part wood ash. Sift the mixture through a sieve, moisten and fill the cells in the cassette with it without compacting. Make a small hole 4-5 mm deep in each cell and place one bamboo seed in them (the seeds are removed from the water and blotted with a cloth 20 minutes before sowing) and plant the crops. The crops are covered with film, providing additional lighting for 12-16 hours and a constant temperature of 25-28C. The soil is kept moist, which will require spraying it twice a day. Bamboo seeds germinate very slowly, and seedlings can be expected only after 2-3.5 weeks. When the seedlings are 3-4 months old and they begin to form shoots, they are planted in separate containers filled with high-moor peat. From now on, bamboo is watered once a day, and it is better to do it in the evening. Seedlings are transplanted into open ground when they reach a height of 40-50 cm. However, it is desirable that young plants survive their first winter indoors, since in open ground they can freeze or die from lack of moisture. You can transfer them to a greenhouse or other unheated, but protected from frost and drafts room for the winter, and when the soil warms up, you can plant them in the garden.
For grandiflora, a mixture of peat, sand and compost or sapropel (river, lake silt) is prepared in a ratio of 2:2:3. When grown from seeds, after harvesting (from October to January), they must immediately be freed from the red sarcotest and laid for 3-6 months for stratification. To do this, pour a mixture of raw sand and moss into a jar halfway, mix with seeds, close the lid and refrigerate at a temperature of +1 + 5 ° C.
Every week, check the seeds for mold and mix. In February, the seeds should germinate even in the refrigerator. If you miss the moment, then the young root rots. In mid-February, the seeds are sown in the soil mixture to a depth of 1 cm. Within a month, all seeds will sprout. The soil should be watered as the top layer dries.
Every week, check the seeds for mold and mix. In February, the seeds should germinate even in the refrigerator. If you miss the moment, then the young root rots. In mid-February, the seeds are sown in the soil mixture to a depth of 1 cm. Within a month, all seeds will sprout. The soil should be watered as the top layer dries.
Stratification is not required. Before sowing seeds
scalded with boiling water, then lowered into cold water and so on several times. You can pour boiling water and leave to cool. Repeat with unswollen seeds. Sowing to a depth of 0.5-1 cm.
Since the seed coat is very hard for faster germination, they can be subjected to scarification, i.e. rub the shell with a nail file or sandpaper. Seeds need to be soaked for a day in hot water. Then fill the pot with regular moistened soil, leaving 12 mm on top. Place the seeds in the soil, sprinkle on top with an additional layer 5-10 mm high and compact gently. Place the pot in a warm, well-lit area indoors or outdoors and heat the pot with a seedling mat if necessary. Keep the soil moist, but don't let it get too wet because the seeds will rot. Under the right conditions, sprouts will appear in 2-3 weeks.
scalded with boiling water, then lowered into cold water and so on several times. You can pour boiling water and leave to cool. Repeat with unswollen seeds. Sowing to a depth of 0.5-1 cm.
Since the seed coat is very hard for faster germination, they can be subjected to scarification, i.e. rub the shell with a nail file or sandpaper. Seeds need to be soaked for a day in hot water. Then fill the pot with regular moistened soil, leaving 12 mm on top. Place the seeds in the soil, sprinkle on top with an additional layer 5-10 mm high and compact gently. Place the pot in a warm, well-lit area indoors or outdoors and heat the pot with a seedling mat if necessary. Keep the soil moist, but don't let it get too wet because the seeds will rot. Under the right conditions, sprouts will appear in 2-3 weeks.
Seeds need stratif. at 5° for 3-4 months.
Seeds germinate well both in autumn and spring sowings in open ground. Seeds germinate within 2 months. Seedlings are massive. The seeding depth is 1-2 cm. Vitex seeds can also be grown through seedlings. This is usually done in February. Under room conditions, seeds are sown in prepared soil to a depth of about 1 cm at a distance of 2 cm, in a month the first shoots will begin to appear. In June, it can be planted in open ground at a distance of 10 cm.
Seeds germinate well both in autumn and spring sowings in open ground. Seeds germinate within 2 months. Seedlings are massive. The seeding depth is 1-2 cm. Vitex seeds can also be grown through seedlings. This is usually done in February. Under room conditions, seeds are sown in prepared soil to a depth of about 1 cm at a distance of 2 cm, in a month the first shoots will begin to appear. In June, it can be planted in open ground at a distance of 10 cm.
Seeds need stratif. at 5° for 2-6 months
Jasmine seeds are sown 5 to 6 weeks before the expected onset of the last frost. To keep jasmine at home, sowing is carried out throughout the year.
Seeds are sown in the ground in the following sequence:
12 hours before planting, the seeds are soaked in warm water or a weak solution of potassium permanganate. This will help make the peel softer and shorten the germination time. Shallow trays or containers are filled with a soil mixture consisting of soddy soil, peat, compost, sand and perlite.
Spread the seeds into holes to a depth of 1 - 2 cm and sprinkle with earth on top.
The containers are covered with a film or a piece of glass for the greenhouse effect and placed in a warm, bright room. Watering is carried out as the topsoil dries up. The first shoots appear after 3-4 weeks. When the length of the seedlings reaches 5 - 7 cm, they can be planted in separate pots or cups.
Jasmine seeds are sown 5 to 6 weeks before the expected onset of the last frost. To keep jasmine at home, sowing is carried out throughout the year.
Seeds are sown in the ground in the following sequence:
12 hours before planting, the seeds are soaked in warm water or a weak solution of potassium permanganate. This will help make the peel softer and shorten the germination time. Shallow trays or containers are filled with a soil mixture consisting of soddy soil, peat, compost, sand and perlite.
Spread the seeds into holes to a depth of 1 - 2 cm and sprinkle with earth on top.
The containers are covered with a film or a piece of glass for the greenhouse effect and placed in a warm, bright room. Watering is carried out as the topsoil dries up. The first shoots appear after 3-4 weeks. When the length of the seedlings reaches 5 - 7 cm, they can be planted in separate pots or cups.
Stratification is not required. Before sowing seeds
scalded with boiling water, then lowered into cold water and so on several times. You can pour boiling water and leave to cool. Repeat with unswollen seeds. Sowing to a depth of 0.5-1 cm.
Wisteria seeds are planted in late November or early December. Wisteria seeds are sown on the surface of a soil mixture consisting of leafy soil (four parts), soddy soil and sand (one part each), sprinkled with a thin layer of sand on top, sprayed with water from a spray bottle and, having covered the container with glass to create a greenhouse effect, put in a dark warm (22-25 ºС) place, keeping the soil slightly moist all the time. Wisteria sprouts from seeds in 3-4 weeks, and after another week and a half, it will be possible to transfer seedlings to the light by organizing protection from direct sunlight. When the seedlings form two leaves, they are dived into separate containers along with a clod of earth on the roots and watered with a weak solution of potassium permanganate.
scalded with boiling water, then lowered into cold water and so on several times. You can pour boiling water and leave to cool. Repeat with unswollen seeds. Sowing to a depth of 0.5-1 cm.
Wisteria seeds are planted in late November or early December. Wisteria seeds are sown on the surface of a soil mixture consisting of leafy soil (four parts), soddy soil and sand (one part each), sprinkled with a thin layer of sand on top, sprayed with water from a spray bottle and, having covered the container with glass to create a greenhouse effect, put in a dark warm (22-25 ºС) place, keeping the soil slightly moist all the time. Wisteria sprouts from seeds in 3-4 weeks, and after another week and a half, it will be possible to transfer seedlings to the light by organizing protection from direct sunlight. When the seedlings form two leaves, they are dived into separate containers along with a clod of earth on the roots and watered with a weak solution of potassium permanganate.
Seeds of all types of spirea do not require stratification.
Prepare the soil for sowing: mix non-acidic peat, vermiculite (4:1). Sow the seeds in a bowl or box. A sheet of light-colored smooth paper will help to distribute them more evenly over the surface of the soil (on such paper, the seeds are clearly visible and easily slide off it).
When sowing in spring, moisten the soil from a sprayer and cover with a film, in the fall you can not do this.
Drop a container with crops in the garden. When planting in the spring, you can simply plant it in the shade so that the soil does not overheat and dry out - but not near the north side of the fence and building, where an icy wind blows in the spring. As soon as the first shoots appear on the surface of the soil, the film must be removed.
When the spirea seedlings reach about 2 cm in height, their color begins to appear (if the seeds are from a variety with yellow leaves). At this time, they urgently need to dive, sorting the seedlings by color. It is not worth postponing the procedure: green seedlings overtake in growth and are already beginning to "strangle" their less agile yellow-leaved counterparts.
Select spirea seedlings from a bowl or box in bunches of several. Sort, if necessary, by color. Pinch the long roots of each seedling 1/3 and plant them in a box at a distance of 5-6 cm from each other.
Keep the seed box in a shady spot (better in the shade of deciduous trees) and remember to water regularly. Closer to autumn, plants can be transplanted to the garden, and next season - to permanent places.
Spirea is one of the few shrubs that tolerates transplanting well at any time that suits you. The main thing is that by the time of transplanting to a permanent place, the plants have reached such a size when they will be clearly visible. Then you will not accidentally pull them out with weeds and trample them.
Prepare the soil for sowing: mix non-acidic peat, vermiculite (4:1). Sow the seeds in a bowl or box. A sheet of light-colored smooth paper will help to distribute them more evenly over the surface of the soil (on such paper, the seeds are clearly visible and easily slide off it).
When sowing in spring, moisten the soil from a sprayer and cover with a film, in the fall you can not do this.
Drop a container with crops in the garden. When planting in the spring, you can simply plant it in the shade so that the soil does not overheat and dry out - but not near the north side of the fence and building, where an icy wind blows in the spring. As soon as the first shoots appear on the surface of the soil, the film must be removed.
When the spirea seedlings reach about 2 cm in height, their color begins to appear (if the seeds are from a variety with yellow leaves). At this time, they urgently need to dive, sorting the seedlings by color. It is not worth postponing the procedure: green seedlings overtake in growth and are already beginning to "strangle" their less agile yellow-leaved counterparts.
Select spirea seedlings from a bowl or box in bunches of several. Sort, if necessary, by color. Pinch the long roots of each seedling 1/3 and plant them in a box at a distance of 5-6 cm from each other.
Keep the seed box in a shady spot (better in the shade of deciduous trees) and remember to water regularly. Closer to autumn, plants can be transplanted to the garden, and next season - to permanent places.
Spirea is one of the few shrubs that tolerates transplanting well at any time that suits you. The main thing is that by the time of transplanting to a permanent place, the plants have reached such a size when they will be clearly visible. Then you will not accidentally pull them out with weeds and trample them.
Seeds need stratif. at 0–3° for 3–3.5 months.
To stratify the seeds, they are mixed with slightly moistened coarse-grained river sand at the rate of 3 parts of sand and 1 part of seeds and poured into boxes or cans from canned food (the bottom of the can should have holes for water drainage). Seeds are stored in a room with a temperature of 0 to +3 degrees. You can store the seeds in the lower part of the refrigerator (drying should not be allowed). The duration of the stratification is approximately 3 months. In mid-March, the seeds are sown in a box. For sowing use steamed land. When using unprepared garden soil, young plants can get sick with a "black leg" and die. Seeds of common lilac germinate in 10-15 days, Amur lilac seeds prepared for sowing germinate in 2-3 months. After 2 weeks, when the second pair of leaves begins to form, the seedlings dive into boxes at a distance of 3-4 cm. In May, they are planted in the ground in a permanent place. Autumn planting of seedlings is not recommended, since many of them freeze out during the winter. You can sow seeds in open ground before winter in a pre-prepared garden bed. Sow in frozen ground or on the first snow. Close up the seeds by 1-1.5 cm. In the spring they dive and plant them for growing. In the first year, seedlings do not feed. In the second year, the plants are inspected, the basal shoots are removed. Underdeveloped bushes are cut "on a stump", leaving three to four pairs of well-developed buds on each shoot. In the third year, pruning is repeated (for underdeveloped plants).
To stratify the seeds, they are mixed with slightly moistened coarse-grained river sand at the rate of 3 parts of sand and 1 part of seeds and poured into boxes or cans from canned food (the bottom of the can should have holes for water drainage). Seeds are stored in a room with a temperature of 0 to +3 degrees. You can store the seeds in the lower part of the refrigerator (drying should not be allowed). The duration of the stratification is approximately 3 months. In mid-March, the seeds are sown in a box. For sowing use steamed land. When using unprepared garden soil, young plants can get sick with a "black leg" and die. Seeds of common lilac germinate in 10-15 days, Amur lilac seeds prepared for sowing germinate in 2-3 months. After 2 weeks, when the second pair of leaves begins to form, the seedlings dive into boxes at a distance of 3-4 cm. In May, they are planted in the ground in a permanent place. Autumn planting of seedlings is not recommended, since many of them freeze out during the winter. You can sow seeds in open ground before winter in a pre-prepared garden bed. Sow in frozen ground or on the first snow. Close up the seeds by 1-1.5 cm. In the spring they dive and plant them for growing. In the first year, seedlings do not feed. In the second year, the plants are inspected, the basal shoots are removed. Underdeveloped bushes are cut "on a stump", leaving three to four pairs of well-developed buds on each shoot. In the third year, pruning is repeated (for underdeveloped plants).
Seeds are stratified: mixed with wet sand in a ratio of 1:3, placed in a bag or container and stored in a refrigerator vegetable box for two months. All the time of stratification, the sand should be slightly wet. Lilac seeds are sown in the second decade of March in well-steamed or roasted garden soil to a depth of 15 mm. Crops are moistened with a spray bottle. Shoots may appear in two weeks, but sometimes seeds can take up to three months to germinate. Two weeks after the emergence of seedlings, the seedlings dive in increments of 4 cm, and with the onset of stable heat, the seedlings are planted in a permanent place. You can sow seeds before winter in slightly frozen ground - this will free you from the stratification procedure. In the spring, the emerging shoots dive and send for growing.
Legumes usually do not need seed stratification, and give good germination after storing dry seeds in a cold, dry place, and then soaking in hot water for a couple of hours (thermal scarification). But you can also prostratify the seeds for 1.5 months in damp loose sand in the refrigerator. Sowing is carried out in March - April in non-acidic loose fertile soil (chernozem or soddy soil with sand in a ratio of 1: 2). Watering, both seedlings and adult plants, is very moderate.
Needs stratification at 5-6° for 2 months in sand. Stratified seeds are recommended to be sown in early spring at 0°C. Sowing to a depth of 0.5-1 cm.
The most common way is to sow seeds in the fall, in a closed, unheated room. After germination, as soon as the seedlings grow up, they are transplanted into pots one by one. Planting at a permanent landing site after several successive transfers to larger pots is carried out after 2-3 years.
The most common way is to sow seeds in the fall, in a closed, unheated room. After germination, as soon as the seedlings grow up, they are transplanted into pots one by one. Planting at a permanent landing site after several successive transfers to larger pots is carried out after 2-3 years.
For good germination, the seeds are kept in the cold for 1-2 months. For this you will need a zip-package. Write the date on it, put sand or perlite in it and pour some cold boiled water. In the resulting moist environment, you need to place the seeds, you can also wrap the seeds in a damp cotton cloth and put them in a zip bag. Put the bag with seeds in the refrigerator for 1-2 months at a temperature of +2 to +8 ° C, and then you can proceed to planting. Check the seeds once a week for mold. If mold appears, then it is necessary to rinse the seeds, take a clean zip bag and repeat the procedure. At the end of the stratification period, proceed to planting. Prepare the pot, drainage and soil. The pot must have drainage holes. Pour expanded clay on the bottom of the pot, put soil on top of it and compact it slightly. Leave some soil to sprinkle the seeds on top with a small layer of soil. Spread the seeds over the surface of the soil and sprinkle with a small layer of soil. Place the pot on a shaded window sill and maintain the optimum temperature between +18 and +20 °C. Sprouts appear in 3-6 weeks. As seedlings emerge, gradually increase ventilation by opening the bag.
Seeds before planting are immersed in warm water for 8-10 hours. Sow to a depth of no more than 1 cm in a light, loose soil mixture. Containers with crops are covered with a film, regularly moistened with a spray bottle and kept at a temperature of 22-24 degrees above zero. Shoots begin to appear after 2 weeks, can germinate within 2 months. At the stage of 3-4 leaves, seedlings dive into individual pots filled with earth mixture, consisting of equal parts of leaf and peat soil.
In temperate latitudes, heat-loving tabebuya is grown indoors using the bonsai technique, or as a tub plant, moved to the garden for the summer. For planting, a capacious container is required, which is filled with a loose nutrient substrate, consisting of 2 parts of leafy soil, taken in 1 part of humus, soddy soil, peat and 1/3 part of sand. As a rule, a little finely chopped sphagnum moss is added to ready-made store-bought universal soil mixtures. The plant is transplanted every 2 years, young plants, intensively growing both the crown and the root system, require moving to more spacious flower pots more often. The optimum temperature conditions for a tree are 25-30 degrees Celsius, the wintering is cool, but it is better not to risk the condition of a green pet and not to allow the temperature in the room where the plant is kept to drop below 18 degrees Celsius. Feels great on the southwestern and southeastern windows, under the influence of direct sunlight, the leaves get severe burns. Room tabebuya is fertilized in spring and summer with complex mineral fertilizers for flowering plants. The solution is prepared in accordance with the instructions on the package. In hot weather, it needs good regular watering, but do not overdo it with moisture - a waterlogged earthen ball is undesirable. Usually they are guided by the state of the upper layer of the substrate - if it is dry by 1-2 cm, then it's time to water. For a tree, the humidity of the surrounding air is also important: the drier the air, the more likely the leaves will wither and be damaged by pests. Tabebuya does not tolerate spraying. From the ingress of moisture on the leaves, light brown spots form, worsening the decorative appearance of the plant. To maintain the required level of humidity in the room, it is better to place containers with water nearby or place the plant pot in a tray with wet moss or peat.
In temperate latitudes, heat-loving tabebuya is grown indoors using the bonsai technique, or as a tub plant, moved to the garden for the summer. For planting, a capacious container is required, which is filled with a loose nutrient substrate, consisting of 2 parts of leafy soil, taken in 1 part of humus, soddy soil, peat and 1/3 part of sand. As a rule, a little finely chopped sphagnum moss is added to ready-made store-bought universal soil mixtures. The plant is transplanted every 2 years, young plants, intensively growing both the crown and the root system, require moving to more spacious flower pots more often. The optimum temperature conditions for a tree are 25-30 degrees Celsius, the wintering is cool, but it is better not to risk the condition of a green pet and not to allow the temperature in the room where the plant is kept to drop below 18 degrees Celsius. Feels great on the southwestern and southeastern windows, under the influence of direct sunlight, the leaves get severe burns. Room tabebuya is fertilized in spring and summer with complex mineral fertilizers for flowering plants. The solution is prepared in accordance with the instructions on the package. In hot weather, it needs good regular watering, but do not overdo it with moisture - a waterlogged earthen ball is undesirable. Usually they are guided by the state of the upper layer of the substrate - if it is dry by 1-2 cm, then it's time to water. For a tree, the humidity of the surrounding air is also important: the drier the air, the more likely the leaves will wither and be damaged by pests. Tabebuya does not tolerate spraying. From the ingress of moisture on the leaves, light brown spots form, worsening the decorative appearance of the plant. To maintain the required level of humidity in the room, it is better to place containers with water nearby or place the plant pot in a tray with wet moss or peat.
Rules for planting willow from seeds:
-seeds should be on the soil surface, since willow germination is aboveground;
- as soon as the seeds ripen, they are laid out in bowls in which the soil was previously placed: a mixture in equal proportions of compost and sand;
- the soil must be constantly wet, to maintain moisture, the bowl can be covered with glass, as soon as 2 leaves appear, the glass is removed;
- when the seedlings grow to 1 cm, they are transplanted into boxes filled with compost and sand;
- when the sprouts reach a height of 3-5 cm, they are planted in open ground;
- young plants should take root before the onset of frost, they are planted in late August or early September.
-seeds should be on the soil surface, since willow germination is aboveground;
- as soon as the seeds ripen, they are laid out in bowls in which the soil was previously placed: a mixture in equal proportions of compost and sand;
- the soil must be constantly wet, to maintain moisture, the bowl can be covered with glass, as soon as 2 leaves appear, the glass is removed;
- when the seedlings grow to 1 cm, they are transplanted into boxes filled with compost and sand;
- when the sprouts reach a height of 3-5 cm, they are planted in open ground;
- young plants should take root before the onset of frost, they are planted in late August or early September.
The seeds are pre-soaked for 30 minutes in a stimulant - Epine or Zircon, then scarified (the shell is removed or filed). Then they are sown in light neutral soil, deepened to 1cm, moistened, covered with glass and placed in a warm and bright place (25-28C), if necessary, additionally illuminated with lamps, and heat is provided by heating. Seeds take a long time to germinate - from 3 to 6 months.
Maintain constant humidity throughout the entire time, and do not forget to ventilate! Seedlings dive into separate containers at the stage of 2-4 true leaves.
Osmanthus growing in open ground are not pruned, their shoots are not pinched - this negatively affects their flowering. For indoor or greenhouse forms, pruning is permissible in order to form a beautiful lush bush or tree.
In the conditions of the Middle Zone, osmanthus is usually not grown in open ground, since it is quite difficult to organize wintering for it.
Maintain constant humidity throughout the entire time, and do not forget to ventilate! Seedlings dive into separate containers at the stage of 2-4 true leaves.
Osmanthus growing in open ground are not pruned, their shoots are not pinched - this negatively affects their flowering. For indoor or greenhouse forms, pruning is permissible in order to form a beautiful lush bush or tree.
In the conditions of the Middle Zone, osmanthus is usually not grown in open ground, since it is quite difficult to organize wintering for it.
The unpretentious silver acacia is equally successfully propagated by seeds and cuttings. The plant loves light, water- and breathable soils, therefore, for better germination, a mixture of equal parts of leafy soil and river sand is prepared with the addition of vermiculite, and the seeds are soaked in water heated to 60 ºС with the addition of 1-2 drops of a growth biostimulator (Epin will do). or "Zircon") for 1-2 days.
It is necessary to carefully monitor the seeds, avoiding the souring of water. Seeds are planted, deepening them by 0.5 cm, abundantly moisten the substrate in a container and cover the plantings with glass or film. Containers are installed in a warm, bright place, with a constantly maintained temperature of 22-25 ºС. Seeds will take 1 to 5 weeks to germinate. The amplitude in terms is explained solely by the quality of the seeds.
Sprouted seedlings grow intensively, as several true leaves appear, they dive into separate containers filled with a substrate consisting of leafy and soddy soil mixed with sand. The main role in the good development of the seedling is played by light and heat. In the presence of these two components, seedlings quickly turn into young trees and can bloom in the 2nd year.
It is necessary to carefully monitor the seeds, avoiding the souring of water. Seeds are planted, deepening them by 0.5 cm, abundantly moisten the substrate in a container and cover the plantings with glass or film. Containers are installed in a warm, bright place, with a constantly maintained temperature of 22-25 ºС. Seeds will take 1 to 5 weeks to germinate. The amplitude in terms is explained solely by the quality of the seeds.
Sprouted seedlings grow intensively, as several true leaves appear, they dive into separate containers filled with a substrate consisting of leafy and soddy soil mixed with sand. The main role in the good development of the seedling is played by light and heat. In the presence of these two components, seedlings quickly turn into young trees and can bloom in the 2nd year.
Seeds are usually sown in the spring. Before planting, it is recommended to soak them for a day, laying them in a moistened cloth. Then the seeds are placed in a warm place. Peat-sand soil is poured into the container, and the seeds are immersed 1 cm into the substrate. Then spraying is carried out from a fine spray gun. The temperature must be maintained within 22-25 degrees. The container is covered with a lid, bag or glass, do not forget to tediously ventilate and moisten the soil in the container if necessary. After 14-20 days, the first shoots will hatch.
After that, the level of illumination is increased, but without direct rays of light. As soon as a couple of true leaves appear on the plants, it is possible to carry out seating in separate pots with more fertile soil. The sprouts are placed one at a time in a container with a diameter of 7 cm. The substrate is made up of humus, peat soil, light soddy soil, river sand (in proportions 1:1:2:1, respectively). When young jacarandas grow up, they are transplanted into pots with diameters of 9–11 cm and the same substrate.
After that, the level of illumination is increased, but without direct rays of light. As soon as a couple of true leaves appear on the plants, it is possible to carry out seating in separate pots with more fertile soil. The sprouts are placed one at a time in a container with a diameter of 7 cm. The substrate is made up of humus, peat soil, light soddy soil, river sand (in proportions 1:1:2:1, respectively). When young jacarandas grow up, they are transplanted into pots with diameters of 9–11 cm and the same substrate.
Saxaul seeds do not require preparation for sowing, they can be sown dry. To get fast and friendly germination, the seeds are mixed with wet sand for 1-2 days before sowing, with which they are then sown. The sowing rate of non-winged seeds is 1.5-2 g per 1 linear meter. m; embedment depth 2-3 cm; with shallower incorporation, seed germination may decrease due to the rapid drying of the surface layer of sand even when covering the ridges.
After sowing, the seed tapes are rolled up and completely covered with a grass cover. Usually they use reed-hardened cattail with a layer of about 2-3 cm. When the first shoots appear, the tire is loosened, and later, when the mass emergence of shoots begins, it is shifted from the sowing lines and left for the whole summer in the aisles. This reduces the evaporation of moisture from the surface layers of sand and protects the seedlings from being blown out and notched by sand.
After sowing, the seed tapes are rolled up and completely covered with a grass cover. Usually they use reed-hardened cattail with a layer of about 2-3 cm. When the first shoots appear, the tire is loosened, and later, when the mass emergence of shoots begins, it is shifted from the sowing lines and left for the whole summer in the aisles. This reduces the evaporation of moisture from the surface layers of sand and protects the seedlings from being blown out and notched by sand.
The culture is propagated by seeds. Seeds need pre-treatment: first they are scalded, then soaked in warm water for 24 hours. To increase the percentage of germination, the seeds must be scarified. Treatment with concentrated sulfuric acid is also recommended. Stratification is not forbidden; for this, the seeds are placed in wet sand mixed with peat for three months and stored at a temperature of 5C.
The seeds have good germination.
Soil mixture: light. The substrate is prepared from 1 part of turf, 3 parts of peat crumbs and 0.5 parts of sand. It is allowed to contain a third of peat in it. The ideal option is a soil from compost land with clay-turf soil in equal quantities. A little sand is also added here.
Sowing: Sowing is carried out with the arrival of February. A drainage layer (1/4) is placed in the pot. Then we fill up the layer of earth. To a depth of no more than 0.5 cm, we press the seeds of eucalyptus. Moisten the soil slightly with a spray gun.
The container is turned into a greenhouse, covering it with a plastic film or a cut-off plastic bottle (neck up). In the second case, the container can be ventilated by unscrewing the lid.
At first, regular watering is carried out from a spray bottle. It is increased after the appearance of sprouts, after 10-15 days. It is important to ensure that excess moisture does not stagnate in the pallet, and it is also necessary to maintain a temperature of 21-24C.
In a couple of weeks, the first brownish sprouts will appear.
When 4 leaves appear, the plant is dived into a more convenient pot and placed on a sunny windowsill.
It is very important not to forget to pinch the shoot during growth. When the tree reaches 7 cm, it must be pinched.
Pinching young shoots in the spring makes it possible for eucalyptus to form in the form of a lush bush.
Soil mixture: light. The substrate is prepared from 1 part of turf, 3 parts of peat crumbs and 0.5 parts of sand. It is allowed to contain a third of peat in it. The ideal option is a soil from compost land with clay-turf soil in equal quantities. A little sand is also added here.
Sowing: Sowing is carried out with the arrival of February. A drainage layer (1/4) is placed in the pot. Then we fill up the layer of earth. To a depth of no more than 0.5 cm, we press the seeds of eucalyptus. Moisten the soil slightly with a spray gun.
The container is turned into a greenhouse, covering it with a plastic film or a cut-off plastic bottle (neck up). In the second case, the container can be ventilated by unscrewing the lid.
At first, regular watering is carried out from a spray bottle. It is increased after the appearance of sprouts, after 10-15 days. It is important to ensure that excess moisture does not stagnate in the pallet, and it is also necessary to maintain a temperature of 21-24C.
In a couple of weeks, the first brownish sprouts will appear.
When 4 leaves appear, the plant is dived into a more convenient pot and placed on a sunny windowsill.
It is very important not to forget to pinch the shoot during growth. When the tree reaches 7 cm, it must be pinched.
Pinching young shoots in the spring makes it possible for eucalyptus to form in the form of a lush bush.
Soil: 2 parts of leaf, 1 part of peat land and 1 part of humus.
Sowing: ficus seeds are planted to a depth of about 0.5 cm . You can sprinkle the seeds with either the same substrate or coarse-grained sand, which perfectly conducts moisture and air. The soil is well moistened, preferably from a sprayer, and covered with a film or glass.
From time to time, it is necessary to ventilate the sprouts by removing the film or glass for a couple of hours. As soon as you see the first shoots, 2-3 leaves, it is necessary to remove the glass (film) completely. After a couple of days, you need to thin out the shoots by removing weak sprouts. Then we take a few plastic cups and transplant the ficus shoots into them. As soon as the plant grows a little, it needs to be transplanted back into a container with a large diameter.
Temperature: preferably moderate, within +25-+30 °C.
Lighting: prefer a bright place, with protection from direct sunlight at noon.
Care: watering likes moderate, does not tolerate waterlogging of the soil.
Ficuses do not like when they are planted in dishes much larger than their root system, so they are transplanted when presumably the roots will fill the entire pot or tub. At the same time, ficuses grow quite quickly, therefore, the soil during transplantation should be nutritious, in addition, fertilizing fertilizing is carried out in spring and summer.
Sowing: ficus seeds are planted to a depth of about 0.5 cm . You can sprinkle the seeds with either the same substrate or coarse-grained sand, which perfectly conducts moisture and air. The soil is well moistened, preferably from a sprayer, and covered with a film or glass.
From time to time, it is necessary to ventilate the sprouts by removing the film or glass for a couple of hours. As soon as you see the first shoots, 2-3 leaves, it is necessary to remove the glass (film) completely. After a couple of days, you need to thin out the shoots by removing weak sprouts. Then we take a few plastic cups and transplant the ficus shoots into them. As soon as the plant grows a little, it needs to be transplanted back into a container with a large diameter.
Temperature: preferably moderate, within +25-+30 °C.
Lighting: prefer a bright place, with protection from direct sunlight at noon.
Care: watering likes moderate, does not tolerate waterlogging of the soil.
Ficuses do not like when they are planted in dishes much larger than their root system, so they are transplanted when presumably the roots will fill the entire pot or tub. At the same time, ficuses grow quite quickly, therefore, the soil during transplantation should be nutritious, in addition, fertilizing fertilizing is carried out in spring and summer.
To make the seed germinate faster, pierce it with a needle, put it in warm water, leave it for a day. The second method: dip in hot water for a few minutes, then add cold water to the dishes and leave for 24 hours. Growth stimulants contribute to the accelerated appearance of sprouts.
Sowing: Bury the seed 0.5–1 cm in moist soil, lightly sprinkle with earth. Create a greenhouse effect by covering the planting with a jar or plastic bag. Moisten the soil as it dries. When you see that the plant has released a new leaf, remove the film.
The room temperature should be +27 °C.
After 3-4 months, the plants are transplanted into more spacious containers. The soil is preferably loose and neutral. The maximum pH level is 6.5. A mixture of peat, garden soil, river sand is suitable. You can add ⅛ volume of small pebbles. Before planting, the plant is provided with drainage from stones or scraps of foam, put it in a thick layer on the bottom of the pot.
Care: Every year, transplant young plants into a larger container than the previous one. When the plant is 10-15 years old, replace 1/3 of the earth from above.
After the delonix reaches a height of 150 cm, form its crown. Trim the top and excess side branches. The procedure is carried out after the end of flowering or at the beginning of summer.
Feed fertilizers only in the summer. Water after the earthen lump has dried. The optimal summer temperature is from 24 to 30 °C.
In winter, the plant has a dormant period. The temperature should not fall below 12 °C. Reduce watering to a minimum.
Sowing: Bury the seed 0.5–1 cm in moist soil, lightly sprinkle with earth. Create a greenhouse effect by covering the planting with a jar or plastic bag. Moisten the soil as it dries. When you see that the plant has released a new leaf, remove the film.
The room temperature should be +27 °C.
After 3-4 months, the plants are transplanted into more spacious containers. The soil is preferably loose and neutral. The maximum pH level is 6.5. A mixture of peat, garden soil, river sand is suitable. You can add ⅛ volume of small pebbles. Before planting, the plant is provided with drainage from stones or scraps of foam, put it in a thick layer on the bottom of the pot.
Care: Every year, transplant young plants into a larger container than the previous one. When the plant is 10-15 years old, replace 1/3 of the earth from above.
After the delonix reaches a height of 150 cm, form its crown. Trim the top and excess side branches. The procedure is carried out after the end of flowering or at the beginning of summer.
Feed fertilizers only in the summer. Water after the earthen lump has dried. The optimal summer temperature is from 24 to 30 °C.
In winter, the plant has a dormant period. The temperature should not fall below 12 °C. Reduce watering to a minimum.
Before sowing, seeds require scarification - destruction of the hard shell, which is carried out mechanically, by grinding with sandpaper or chemically, by keeping the seeds for 15-20 minutes in concentrated sulfuric acid; after which the seeds are thoroughly washed with water and dried to a free-flowing state.
After scarification, soak the seeds for a day in warm water. The substrate is slightly acidic and quite fertile. Seeds are planted to a depth of no more than 1 cm. The crops are sprayed and covered with film and glass. Crops are regularly ventilated and moistened if necessary. Shoots appear in 3-5 weeks.
When a pair of true leaves appear on young cassias, you can replant them in separate pots with appropriate soil.
After scarification, soak the seeds for a day in warm water. The substrate is slightly acidic and quite fertile. Seeds are planted to a depth of no more than 1 cm. The crops are sprayed and covered with film and glass. Crops are regularly ventilated and moistened if necessary. Shoots appear in 3-5 weeks.
When a pair of true leaves appear on young cassias, you can replant them in separate pots with appropriate soil.
Wash the seeds thoroughly and scatter them evenly on the surface, then cover the top with a layer of soil about 3 cm thick. Water the seeds twice a day: morning and evening.
If the ambient temperature remains between +18 and +25 ℃, the seeds will germinate within 4-6 weeks. Once the seeds have started to grow, reduce the amount of watering to encourage the roots to grow deeper. If you sowed the seeds in seedling trays, transplant them when they are 30cm tall.
If the ambient temperature remains between +18 and +25 ℃, the seeds will germinate within 4-6 weeks. Once the seeds have started to grow, reduce the amount of watering to encourage the roots to grow deeper. If you sowed the seeds in seedling trays, transplant them when they are 30cm tall.
It is recommended to stratify the seeds for 1.5 months in damp, loose sand in the refrigerator. Sowing is carried out in March - April to a depth of 5-6 mm in a substrate composed of sand and peat in equal parts, after which the crops are covered with film. Germinate the seeds at a temperature of 19-21 ºC in the shade, spraying and ventilating from time to time. At the stage of development of 1-2 true leaves, the seedlings dive into a substrate consisting of 2 parts of turf soil, 1 part of sand and 1 part of humus and laid out in pots with a diameter of 7 cm. In the spring, the seedlings are transplanted into large pots - with a diameter of 11 cm - and pinched for strengthening branching. Young brooms 30-55 cm high are planted in open ground in the third year.
In spring sowing of seeds without preliminary stratification, seedlings appear a month after sowing.
Seeds need stratification at a temperature of +5° for 3-4 months.
The seeds germinate well both in autumn and spring sowing in open ground. Seeds germinate within 2 months. Shoots are massive. Seed placement depth is 1-2 cm.
You can also grow seeds through seedlings. This is usually done in February. In room conditions, seeds are sown in prepared soil to a depth of about 1 cm at a distance of 2 cm; after a month, the first shoots will begin to appear. In June, it can be planted in open ground at a distance of 10 cm.
The seeds germinate well both in autumn and spring sowing in open ground. Seeds germinate within 2 months. Shoots are massive. Seed placement depth is 1-2 cm.
You can also grow seeds through seedlings. This is usually done in February. In room conditions, seeds are sown in prepared soil to a depth of about 1 cm at a distance of 2 cm; after a month, the first shoots will begin to appear. In June, it can be planted in open ground at a distance of 10 cm.
You can plant the whole fruit or break the fruit with a hammer and extract the seeds from it.
Preparation: seeds or fruit are scarified and pre-soaked for 1 day in a weak solution of potassium permanganate or in warm water with the addition of stimulants.
Sowing: sown in pots or cassettes with a well-drained substrate, moistened with a spray bottle, covered with film and germinated in the light (not in the sun) at a temperature of 20-25°C. The seedlings need ventilation. The soil should always be moist.
Germination takes from 1-5 months to 1-2 years. After germination, the plants are planted in new containers.
Preparation: seeds or fruit are scarified and pre-soaked for 1 day in a weak solution of potassium permanganate or in warm water with the addition of stimulants.
Sowing: sown in pots or cassettes with a well-drained substrate, moistened with a spray bottle, covered with film and germinated in the light (not in the sun) at a temperature of 20-25°C. The seedlings need ventilation. The soil should always be moist.
Germination takes from 1-5 months to 1-2 years. After germination, the plants are planted in new containers.
Sowing: Bury the seed 0.5–1 cm into moist soil, lightly sprinkle with soil. Create a greenhouse effect by covering the planting with film. Moisten the soil as it dries. When you see that the plant has produced a new leaf, remove the film.
The room temperature should be +27 °C. After 3–4 months, the plants are transplanted into larger containers. The soil is preferably loose and neutral. A mixture of peat, garden soil, and river sand is suitable. You can add ⅛ of the volume of small pebbles. Before planting, the plant is provided with drainage from stones or scraps of foam, laid in a thick layer on the bottom of the pot.
Care: fertilizing, regular watering.
The room temperature should be +27 °C. After 3–4 months, the plants are transplanted into larger containers. The soil is preferably loose and neutral. A mixture of peat, garden soil, and river sand is suitable. You can add ⅛ of the volume of small pebbles. Before planting, the plant is provided with drainage from stones or scraps of foam, laid in a thick layer on the bottom of the pot.
Care: fertilizing, regular watering.
In February-March, soak the seeds in warm water for about a day and place them to a depth of 1 cm in moist, loose soil (a mixture of turf, leaf, peat soil and sand (1:1:1:1)). Cover the box with film and place in a warm place.
When the seedlings appear, they are transplanted into separate pots, which are then placed on a well-lit windowsill.
Care: regular abundant watering, fertilizing, intense lighting, temperature: from spring to autumn within 20-24 °C, in winter 16-18 °C.
When the seedlings appear, they are transplanted into separate pots, which are then placed on a well-lit windowsill.
Care: regular abundant watering, fertilizing, intense lighting, temperature: from spring to autumn within 20-24 °C, in winter 16-18 °C.
Before sowing, the seeds are scarified using sandpaper or a sharp object, carefully so as not to damage the seed embryo. The seeds are pre-soaked for 1-2 hours, then placed in soil consisting of perlite, sand and peat in equal proportions. The sowing depth is 2 seed diameters. Cover with film and germinate at a temperature not lower than +25 degrees. Shoots appear on the 14-28th day.
Grown plants are planted in pots with soil consisting of 2 parts turf soil, 1 part leaf soil with the addition of sand.
Care: regular watering, fertilizing, pruning, temperature in warm weather from 20 to 26 degrees, in winter - 18 degrees.
Grown plants are planted in pots with soil consisting of 2 parts turf soil, 1 part leaf soil with the addition of sand.
Care: regular watering, fertilizing, pruning, temperature in warm weather from 20 to 26 degrees, in winter - 18 degrees.
Seeds are sown in moist peat with the addition of sand or perlite. Germinate under film in the light at a temperature of 22-28°C. Seedlings dive into separate containers in the phase of 4 true leaves.
Care: regular watering, fertilizing during the growing season 2 times a month with complex mineral fertilizer.
Care: regular watering, fertilizing during the growing season 2 times a month with complex mineral fertilizer.
Soil for sowing: 2 parts leaf soil, 1 part peat soil and 1 part humus.
Sowing: plant ficus seeds to a depth of about 0.5 cm. You can sprinkle the seeds either with the same substrate or with coarse sand, which perfectly conducts moisture and air. The soil is well moistened, preferably from a sprayer, and covered with film or glass.
From time to time it is necessary to ventilate the sprouts by removing the film or glass for a couple of hours. As soon as you see the first shoots, 2-3 leaves, you need to remove the glass (film) completely. After a couple of days, you need to thin out the seedlings, removing weak shoots. Then we take several plastic cups and transplant the ficus shoots into them. As soon as the plant grows a little, it needs to be replanted in a container with a larger diameter.
Temperature: preferably moderate, within +18-+25°C.
Lighting: prefer a bright place, with protection from direct sunlight during midday hours.
Care: prefers moderate watering and does not tolerate waterlogging of the soil. It is necessary to protect from drafts and keep away from heating devices.
Ficuses do not like to be planted in a container much larger than their root system, so they are replanted when the roots are expected to fill the entire pot or tub. At the same time, ficus trees grow quite quickly, therefore, the soil when transplanting must be nutritious, in addition, fertilizer fertilizing is carried out in spring and summer.
Sowing: plant ficus seeds to a depth of about 0.5 cm. You can sprinkle the seeds either with the same substrate or with coarse sand, which perfectly conducts moisture and air. The soil is well moistened, preferably from a sprayer, and covered with film or glass.
From time to time it is necessary to ventilate the sprouts by removing the film or glass for a couple of hours. As soon as you see the first shoots, 2-3 leaves, you need to remove the glass (film) completely. After a couple of days, you need to thin out the seedlings, removing weak shoots. Then we take several plastic cups and transplant the ficus shoots into them. As soon as the plant grows a little, it needs to be replanted in a container with a larger diameter.
Temperature: preferably moderate, within +18-+25°C.
Lighting: prefer a bright place, with protection from direct sunlight during midday hours.
Care: prefers moderate watering and does not tolerate waterlogging of the soil. It is necessary to protect from drafts and keep away from heating devices.
Ficuses do not like to be planted in a container much larger than their root system, so they are replanted when the roots are expected to fill the entire pot or tub. At the same time, ficus trees grow quite quickly, therefore, the soil when transplanting must be nutritious, in addition, fertilizer fertilizing is carried out in spring and summer.
Sowing: the seeds are scarified (carefully cut, filed), and then kept in hot water for 12 hours.
A layer of drainage, about 4-5 cm, is poured into containers for germination, filled with soil, and moistened. The seeds are laid out on the surface, sprinkled with soil and moistened again, covered with film and placed in a well-lit place, with a temperature of about 20-25°C, preventing the soil surface from drying out. In a week the first shoots should appear.
Care: temperature not lower than +20C, regular watering, loosening the top layer of soil, fertilizing with mineral fertilizers.
A layer of drainage, about 4-5 cm, is poured into containers for germination, filled with soil, and moistened. The seeds are laid out on the surface, sprinkled with soil and moistened again, covered with film and placed in a well-lit place, with a temperature of about 20-25°C, preventing the soil surface from drying out. In a week the first shoots should appear.
Care: temperature not lower than +20C, regular watering, loosening the top layer of soil, fertilizing with mineral fertilizers.
Preparation: the seeds must be scarified: immersed in very hot water or carefully sawed into the seed, thinning the hard shell.
Before planting, it is advisable to soak the seeds in hot water with the addition of potassium permanganate.
Soil for germination: coconut substrate with the addition of perlite and vermiculite.
Sowing: spread the seeds on the surface, sprinkle with a thin layer of soil (do not bury them!), moisten with a spray bottle, cover with film. The optimal temperature for germination is above +24ºС. The best option would be a greenhouse with bottom heating.
As soon as the seedlings have their first couple of true leaves, they must be carefully transplanted into loose, well-drained soil.
Care: Regular watering, loosening the top layer of soil, fertilizing with fertilizers. The temperature in winter is not lower than 15ºС; in summer, outdoor maintenance is recommended.
Before planting, it is advisable to soak the seeds in hot water with the addition of potassium permanganate.
Soil for germination: coconut substrate with the addition of perlite and vermiculite.
Sowing: spread the seeds on the surface, sprinkle with a thin layer of soil (do not bury them!), moisten with a spray bottle, cover with film. The optimal temperature for germination is above +24ºС. The best option would be a greenhouse with bottom heating.
As soon as the seedlings have their first couple of true leaves, they must be carefully transplanted into loose, well-drained soil.
Care: Regular watering, loosening the top layer of soil, fertilizing with fertilizers. The temperature in winter is not lower than 15ºС; in summer, outdoor maintenance is recommended.
Sowing: Seeds are sown on the surface of pre-moistened soil, sprinkled with 1-2 mm of dry soil, slightly moistened with a sprayer, covered with film and placed in a warm place (but not near the radiator). Be sure to monitor the soil moisture and avoid overwatering. From time to time it is necessary to ventilate the sprouts by removing the film or glass for a couple of hours. As soon as you see the first shoots, 2-3 leaves, you need to remove the film completely.
Lighting: prefer a bright place, protected from direct sunlight.
Care: moderate watering, loosening the top layer of soil, fertilizing with mineral and organic fertilizers in spring and summer once a month. It is necessary to protect from drafts and keep away from heating devices.
Temperature: in summer 20-26°C, and in winter not lower than 12°C.
Lighting: prefer a bright place, protected from direct sunlight.
Care: moderate watering, loosening the top layer of soil, fertilizing with mineral and organic fertilizers in spring and summer once a month. It is necessary to protect from drafts and keep away from heating devices.
Temperature: in summer 20-26°C, and in winter not lower than 12°C.
Palms
Butia is propagated exclusively by seed.
Even a novice grower can grow a palm at home. To do this, the following steps are required:
Free the seed from the pulp. This helps prevent rotting and fungal diseases. Afterwards, rinse the seed with warm water and dry it.
Soak the seeds for 48 hours in a solution of growth stimulator. During soaking, the seed's shell will swell and peel off.
To speed up germination, the seed is scarified on one side, i.e. the hard shell is broken.
Seeds can be germinated in a plastic bag. The bag is filled with coconut fibre or moistened peat, closed tightly and placed near a heat source.
Even a novice grower can grow a palm at home. To do this, the following steps are required:
Free the seed from the pulp. This helps prevent rotting and fungal diseases. Afterwards, rinse the seed with warm water and dry it.
Soak the seeds for 48 hours in a solution of growth stimulator. During soaking, the seed's shell will swell and peel off.
To speed up germination, the seed is scarified on one side, i.e. the hard shell is broken.
Seeds can be germinated in a plastic bag. The bag is filled with coconut fibre or moistened peat, closed tightly and placed near a heat source.
Soak the trachicarpus seeds in warm water overnight before planting. The seeds are then placed in a pot filled with a mixture of peat and perlite or peat-sand substrate. The seed should be placed at a depth of 1 cm. After planting, moisten the soil and cover the pot with clear plastic film or a piece of glass. The germination temperature should be around 24 degrees.
Containers should be covered with plastic, placed under diffused light and kept at a temperature of 22 °C, lift the cover daily to air it out, moisten the soil surface as it dries. The seeds will germinate within 20-60 days. Remove the cover once the seedlings have sprouted. When the first leaf has reached a length of 2-4 cm, the seedlings can be transferred to pots with adult substrate.
Containers should be covered with plastic, placed under diffused light and kept at a temperature of 22 °C, lift the cover daily to air it out, moisten the soil surface as it dries. The seeds will germinate within 20-60 days. Remove the cover once the seedlings have sprouted. When the first leaf has reached a length of 2-4 cm, the seedlings can be transferred to pots with adult substrate.
The seeds are sown in individual containers in March/April after soaking in warm water for 2-3 hours. The seeds should be sown to a depth of 1 cm. Water the young plants once or twice a week. In its first 3 litre container, the seedling can grow for 5-6 years. Remember, the less often you transplant your palm trees, the better for them.
It is advisable to prepare 8 to 10 pips rather than just one. Soak them in warm water for a few days, but change the water every day. After the water treatment, take out the pips and make punctures or incisions in several places on them. This will increase the chance of good germination. Then the pips are placed back in water to swell up, which will only take a few days.
It is advisable to plant the date palm from a stone at home in winter. The reason for this is that no light is required during the germination of the seed, but after the seedlings appear, light is required.
The pips should be planted in a common container. They are placed one and a half of their length. Vertical embedding into the substrate or placing them flat is permitted. Both methods should preferably be used for a guaranteed result.
The soil is moistened before planting and then there is no need to water it. A plastic bag should be placed over the container: the tropical humid climate will help the seeds to germinate more quickly. But it should be removed or lifted up for airing every day. The container should be placed in a warm place. These are all the nuances of growing date palm from a seed in home conditions.
Start germinating date seeds in March - April. You will need about a dozen pips. Of this number, some will not germinate and some may die after germination. Treating the seed before soaking Having selected the fruit to be seeded, you need to treat it before sowing. Do this in the following order: Extract the stone from the date. Remove the remaining pulp very carefully and wash well with warm water. The cleaned pips are placed in warm water for 48 hours in order to rid the future plants of harmful micro-organisms that can infect the soil and cause the seedlings to rot. The water should be changed daily. The clean seeds should be dried for 24 hours. The date seed has a very dense seed coat and must be broken in order to facilitate water access to the germ. You can do this in 4 ways: Dip the seeds in hot water (not boiling water!). The water temperature should be about 80 degrees. Gently pierce the seed's skin with a sharp object, being careful not to damage the seed. Peel the seed, thus removing part of the shell. Slightly incise the seed with a sharp knife along the seam. The seed preparation is almost complete. Move on to soaking. Soaking in cotton wool. The emergence of date palm seedlings depends on the quality of the seed and can last from 1 month to 1 year. To speed up the process as much as possible, experienced growers have come up with the idea of soaking the seeds. This can be done simply by putting the seeds in water, but it is best done in cotton wool. Procedure: Each seed should be wrapped tightly in cotton wool to form a cocoon. Each such cocoon is well moistened and placed in the bottom of a plastic container.
It is advisable to plant the date palm from a stone at home in winter. The reason for this is that no light is required during the germination of the seed, but after the seedlings appear, light is required.
The pips should be planted in a common container. They are placed one and a half of their length. Vertical embedding into the substrate or placing them flat is permitted. Both methods should preferably be used for a guaranteed result.
The soil is moistened before planting and then there is no need to water it. A plastic bag should be placed over the container: the tropical humid climate will help the seeds to germinate more quickly. But it should be removed or lifted up for airing every day. The container should be placed in a warm place. These are all the nuances of growing date palm from a seed in home conditions.
Start germinating date seeds in March - April. You will need about a dozen pips. Of this number, some will not germinate and some may die after germination. Treating the seed before soaking Having selected the fruit to be seeded, you need to treat it before sowing. Do this in the following order: Extract the stone from the date. Remove the remaining pulp very carefully and wash well with warm water. The cleaned pips are placed in warm water for 48 hours in order to rid the future plants of harmful micro-organisms that can infect the soil and cause the seedlings to rot. The water should be changed daily. The clean seeds should be dried for 24 hours. The date seed has a very dense seed coat and must be broken in order to facilitate water access to the germ. You can do this in 4 ways: Dip the seeds in hot water (not boiling water!). The water temperature should be about 80 degrees. Gently pierce the seed's skin with a sharp object, being careful not to damage the seed. Peel the seed, thus removing part of the shell. Slightly incise the seed with a sharp knife along the seam. The seed preparation is almost complete. Move on to soaking. Soaking in cotton wool. The emergence of date palm seedlings depends on the quality of the seed and can last from 1 month to 1 year. To speed up the process as much as possible, experienced growers have come up with the idea of soaking the seeds. This can be done simply by putting the seeds in water, but it is best done in cotton wool. Procedure: Each seed should be wrapped tightly in cotton wool to form a cocoon. Each such cocoon is well moistened and placed in the bottom of a plastic container.
Seeds take a long time to germinate, sometimes up to a year.
Before sowing, the seeds are soaked in warm water for 24 hours. Sow to a depth of 1 cm in a light mixture based on peat (coconut fiber), perlite (vermiculite) with the addition of a small amount of deciduous humus soil and sand. Seeds are germinated at t=27-30°C and bright light.
Care: regular watering, spraying, fertilizing, air temperature in summer should be about 25°C, in winter - about 18°C.
Before sowing, the seeds are soaked in warm water for 24 hours. Sow to a depth of 1 cm in a light mixture based on peat (coconut fiber), perlite (vermiculite) with the addition of a small amount of deciduous humus soil and sand. Seeds are germinated at t=27-30°C and bright light.
Care: regular watering, spraying, fertilizing, air temperature in summer should be about 25°C, in winter - about 18°C.
Preparation: Soak the seeds in water for 24 hours before sowing. To speed up germination, it is recommended to scarify the seeds: immerse them in very hot water or carefully saw the seed, thinning the hard shell.
Soil for sowing: palm substrate and vermiculite in a 1:1 ratio. You can use soil for adeniums.
Sowing: Plant the date seed vertically to a depth of 1-2 cm, moisten it with a spray bottle, cover with film, place in a warm place, but not in direct sunlight. The best temperature for germination is +23-+27C. From time to time it is necessary to ventilate the crops by removing the film for a couple of hours. As soon as you see the first shoots, 2-3 leaves, you need to remove the film completely. It is necessary to avoid waterlogging and drying out of crops.
Sprouts may appear after 2 months. Under less favorable conditions, germination may take 6 months or more.
When they reach a height of 10 cm, transplant the seedlings into a container with drainage holes. The soil should consist of sand, turf soil, peat, humus and charcoal.
Care: regular watering, fertilizing.
Soil for sowing: palm substrate and vermiculite in a 1:1 ratio. You can use soil for adeniums.
Sowing: Plant the date seed vertically to a depth of 1-2 cm, moisten it with a spray bottle, cover with film, place in a warm place, but not in direct sunlight. The best temperature for germination is +23-+27C. From time to time it is necessary to ventilate the crops by removing the film for a couple of hours. As soon as you see the first shoots, 2-3 leaves, you need to remove the film completely. It is necessary to avoid waterlogging and drying out of crops.
Sprouts may appear after 2 months. Under less favorable conditions, germination may take 6 months or more.
When they reach a height of 10 cm, transplant the seedlings into a container with drainage holes. The soil should consist of sand, turf soil, peat, humus and charcoal.
Care: regular watering, fertilizing.
Fruiting
Cyphomandra beetroot is an undemanding crop and is undemanding of the soil. Some gardeners prefer soil from the garden. However, it is better to use substrate from a shop because it is impregnated with useful elements.
Beginning gardeners wonder when and how to plant a tomato tree. There is no need to pre-soak and soak the seeds. It is useful to prepare a pot with a drainage system and a tray. Fill the containers with soil. The seeds are sown to a depth of 5 mm and the distance between the seeds is 30 cm. Cover with food film. The best time is the beginning of March.
The first sprouts will form after a week or a week and a half if the temperature regime - +23 ° C - is observed. The polyethylene is removed. Then take the seedlings into the greenhouse and increase the lighting. These conditions ensure rapid growth and development of the tamarillo. After 14 days, the seedlings will reach 8-10 cm.
Beginning gardeners wonder when and how to plant a tomato tree. There is no need to pre-soak and soak the seeds. It is useful to prepare a pot with a drainage system and a tray. Fill the containers with soil. The seeds are sown to a depth of 5 mm and the distance between the seeds is 30 cm. Cover with food film. The best time is the beginning of March.
The first sprouts will form after a week or a week and a half if the temperature regime - +23 ° C - is observed. The polyethylene is removed. Then take the seedlings into the greenhouse and increase the lighting. These conditions ensure rapid growth and development of the tamarillo. After 14 days, the seedlings will reach 8-10 cm.
We recommend stratification at 3-10° for 2 to 3 months.
If the seeds are sown earlier than mid-February in indoor planting boxes, the seedlings may die due to the lack of sunlight. Sow in a soil mixture of peat (or chernozem) and sand in a 1:2 ratio. The seeds are sown to a depth of 1-1.5 cm. Sprouts appear after 2-3 weeks. Watering as the top layer of soil dries out. Container seedlings with leaves should be planted from May to June with obligatory shading from direct sun. Seedlings without leaves can be planted in November or March-April, in cloudy weather, when the temperature will be about +5°C. Persimmons like good watering at least once a week. However, it does not tolerate flooding, sometimes close to groundwater or a short-term drought. For good wood maturation before the cold and for a better harvest, the persimmon should be pruned at the end of July at the ends of the shoots and fertilised twice a year: in early June with vegetable compost and in late summer with a small amount of wood ash to avoid burning the roots (half a cup of ash per bucket of water).
If the seeds are sown earlier than mid-February in indoor planting boxes, the seedlings may die due to the lack of sunlight. Sow in a soil mixture of peat (or chernozem) and sand in a 1:2 ratio. The seeds are sown to a depth of 1-1.5 cm. Sprouts appear after 2-3 weeks. Watering as the top layer of soil dries out. Container seedlings with leaves should be planted from May to June with obligatory shading from direct sun. Seedlings without leaves can be planted in November or March-April, in cloudy weather, when the temperature will be about +5°C. Persimmons like good watering at least once a week. However, it does not tolerate flooding, sometimes close to groundwater or a short-term drought. For good wood maturation before the cold and for a better harvest, the persimmon should be pruned at the end of July at the ends of the shoots and fertilised twice a year: in early June with vegetable compost and in late summer with a small amount of wood ash to avoid burning the roots (half a cup of ash per bucket of water).
From autumn to spring, keep them in the refrigerator at 3-4 °C to ensure that they will germinate more quickly. In April, sow on top of the peat in pots or containers. Put 2 mm of sand or moss on top, water and place in a warm place. Sprouts will appear in a month if watered regularly. When 4-5 leaves are formed, the plants will be picked out. They can be planted in separate pots or in greenhouse soil. By the end of the summer, the film is removed from the greenhouse and the plants are covered for the winter. In spring, they are transplanted to a permanent place. The crop can be harvested in the 5th year.
Seeds need to be stratified at 0-3°C for 1.5-3 months.
If the gardener plans to sow in the spring, the seeds should be stratified; otherwise, dry seeds sown in the spring will not germinate until one year later, i.e. the following spring. Before stratification, the seeds are usually mixed with loose material and moistened. Take 3-4 parts pure river sand or crushed peat per 1 part of the seeds. The moistened sand is thoroughly mixed with the seeds so that they do not touch each other and are evenly distributed. This prevents the possibility of mould transferring from one rotten seed to another. This mixture is placed in small crates or clay pots and transferred to a cellar or cellar where a temperature of 0 to +5°C is maintained. It takes 40-90 days for the apple and pear seeds to pass through the stratification process. When the number of seeds has reached 1 per cent, they should be placed on ice or buried in the snow and stored there until sown in the spring. It is easier to replace stratification by sowing dry seeds directly into the garden bed. They are sown to a depth of 2-4 cm and spaced 10 cm apart. They will remain in the ground over the winter and will go through a natural ripening period before sprouting in spring.
You can grow seedlings in peat brine cubes, blocks or pots filled with good, nutritious soil. A simple pot can be made yourself from thick paper or wallpaper, rolled in several layers over a bottle. Plant one seed at a time directly into the pot, then place the pots tightly in a box and take them out in autumn under the snow for the entire winter. Cover it with spruce claws or wire mesh to protect it from mice.
In spring, the seedlings will sprout and the pots can immediately be planted in a permanent place in the garden or reared in the bed. If well cared for, the seedlings can be suitable for budding by August when the trunk is as thick as a pencil, or next spring when they are cuttings.
If the gardener plans to sow in the spring, the seeds should be stratified; otherwise, dry seeds sown in the spring will not germinate until one year later, i.e. the following spring. Before stratification, the seeds are usually mixed with loose material and moistened. Take 3-4 parts pure river sand or crushed peat per 1 part of the seeds. The moistened sand is thoroughly mixed with the seeds so that they do not touch each other and are evenly distributed. This prevents the possibility of mould transferring from one rotten seed to another. This mixture is placed in small crates or clay pots and transferred to a cellar or cellar where a temperature of 0 to +5°C is maintained. It takes 40-90 days for the apple and pear seeds to pass through the stratification process. When the number of seeds has reached 1 per cent, they should be placed on ice or buried in the snow and stored there until sown in the spring. It is easier to replace stratification by sowing dry seeds directly into the garden bed. They are sown to a depth of 2-4 cm and spaced 10 cm apart. They will remain in the ground over the winter and will go through a natural ripening period before sprouting in spring.
You can grow seedlings in peat brine cubes, blocks or pots filled with good, nutritious soil. A simple pot can be made yourself from thick paper or wallpaper, rolled in several layers over a bottle. Plant one seed at a time directly into the pot, then place the pots tightly in a box and take them out in autumn under the snow for the entire winter. Cover it with spruce claws or wire mesh to protect it from mice.
In spring, the seedlings will sprout and the pots can immediately be planted in a permanent place in the garden or reared in the bed. If well cared for, the seedlings can be suitable for budding by August when the trunk is as thick as a pencil, or next spring when they are cuttings.
The seeds need to be stratified at 0-3°C for 5-8 months.
The seeds should be mixed with the prepared substrate and placed in an open container in an even layer of slight thickness. This mixture is kept at room temperature for about 25-30 days. It should then be placed in a cool place until it can be planted out in the spring. A cellar will be excellent for this purpose. Careful preparation of this type has several purposes: it helps to increase the germination rate; it makes it possible to discard obviously unsuitable material; it helps to preserve the seeds until the planting period; it saturates the seeds with substances necessary for growth and development.
The seeds should be mixed with the prepared substrate and placed in an open container in an even layer of slight thickness. This mixture is kept at room temperature for about 25-30 days. It should then be placed in a cool place until it can be planted out in the spring. A cellar will be excellent for this purpose. Careful preparation of this type has several purposes: it helps to increase the germination rate; it makes it possible to discard obviously unsuitable material; it helps to preserve the seeds until the planting period; it saturates the seeds with substances necessary for growth and development.
Seeds need to be stratified at 1-5° for 3-4 months.
The seeds are soaked in warm water for 3 days. The water is changed daily and the seeds are shaken.
Stratification:
- A container (wooden box or plastic tray) is disinfected. Then fill it with soil (sand, sphagnum, peat or sawdust). The soil is also watered with a dark pink manganese solution or heated in the oven.
- The pips are placed in the soil, burying them by 3-4 cm. Cover them with clingfilm and leave at room temperature for 2 weeks.
- Then place the seeds on the bottom shelf of the refrigerator. There they will be kept for 3-4 months.
- Over a period of 2 to 4 weeks, the temperature is lowered to 0°C.
During this time, moisten the soil as it dries. Make sure that the soil does not become mouldy. If this occurs, remove the affected layer of soil, and treat the remaining soil with a manganese solution together with the seeds.
As a rule, alycha pips are planted in the soil at home in the second half of February. This is done so that they have time to undergo stratification, and when they sprout, the daylight hours will be long enough.
The bottom of the pots should be covered with a 2 cm layer of drainage and a 2 cm layer of sand. Fill the rest with soil. The soil is moistened with warm water. The pips are planted in individual pots. The soil with the seeds is again moistened with a sprayer. The pot is then covered with foil. The seedlings are kept in a bright, warm place. The seeds will be aired daily for 15 minutes. As the top layer of soil dries out, water it with a sprayer. After 2-4 weeks, the seedlings will emerge and the duration of aeration will be increased. When the treatment time reaches 24 hours, the greenhouse is dismantled. When the seeds have germinated, stop watering with a sprayer. Water is poured under the root first with a syringe and then with a special watering can for houseplants.
The seedling should be planted one year after planting. All this time, it is looked after, providing:
Watering. Water 3-4 times a week, in the evening or in the morning, but not during the day when the sun is particularly active. It is important not to allow the top layer of soil to dry out. Warm, standing water is used for watering.
Loosening. Carry out once a week. This is necessary to destroy the soil crust, which prevents normal air exchange, provokes stagnation of liquid and root rot.
Spraying. It is advisable to do this in the morning or evening on very hot days to avoid leaf shedding. Use lukewarm, settled water.
Feeding. To allow the plant to develop properly, fertilise at least once every 4 weeks. Alternate a solution of chicken manure (diluted 1:20 with water) or manure (1:10) with mineral fertilizers (a mixture of superphosphate, ammonium nitrate and potassium sulfate). Beforehand, the alycha is watered abundantly, in order to prevent burns on the roots.
The seeds are soaked in warm water for 3 days. The water is changed daily and the seeds are shaken.
Stratification:
- A container (wooden box or plastic tray) is disinfected. Then fill it with soil (sand, sphagnum, peat or sawdust). The soil is also watered with a dark pink manganese solution or heated in the oven.
- The pips are placed in the soil, burying them by 3-4 cm. Cover them with clingfilm and leave at room temperature for 2 weeks.
- Then place the seeds on the bottom shelf of the refrigerator. There they will be kept for 3-4 months.
- Over a period of 2 to 4 weeks, the temperature is lowered to 0°C.
During this time, moisten the soil as it dries. Make sure that the soil does not become mouldy. If this occurs, remove the affected layer of soil, and treat the remaining soil with a manganese solution together with the seeds.
As a rule, alycha pips are planted in the soil at home in the second half of February. This is done so that they have time to undergo stratification, and when they sprout, the daylight hours will be long enough.
The bottom of the pots should be covered with a 2 cm layer of drainage and a 2 cm layer of sand. Fill the rest with soil. The soil is moistened with warm water. The pips are planted in individual pots. The soil with the seeds is again moistened with a sprayer. The pot is then covered with foil. The seedlings are kept in a bright, warm place. The seeds will be aired daily for 15 minutes. As the top layer of soil dries out, water it with a sprayer. After 2-4 weeks, the seedlings will emerge and the duration of aeration will be increased. When the treatment time reaches 24 hours, the greenhouse is dismantled. When the seeds have germinated, stop watering with a sprayer. Water is poured under the root first with a syringe and then with a special watering can for houseplants.
The seedling should be planted one year after planting. All this time, it is looked after, providing:
Watering. Water 3-4 times a week, in the evening or in the morning, but not during the day when the sun is particularly active. It is important not to allow the top layer of soil to dry out. Warm, standing water is used for watering.
Loosening. Carry out once a week. This is necessary to destroy the soil crust, which prevents normal air exchange, provokes stagnation of liquid and root rot.
Spraying. It is advisable to do this in the morning or evening on very hot days to avoid leaf shedding. Use lukewarm, settled water.
Feeding. To allow the plant to develop properly, fertilise at least once every 4 weeks. Alternate a solution of chicken manure (diluted 1:20 with water) or manure (1:10) with mineral fertilizers (a mixture of superphosphate, ammonium nitrate and potassium sulfate). Beforehand, the alycha is watered abundantly, in order to prevent burns on the roots.
The best time to plant feijoa is in winter (February) or summer (late May-June). In the first case, the seeds will germinate after a month, in the second case, after 3 weeks of sowing. Form furrows/hollows in 5-6 cm increments on the surface. Mix the seeds with sand and sow as if you were salting food. Then cover a little with sand or soil so that the substrate covers the grains by 2-3 mm. The seeds are sprayed with a sprayer. Cover the containers with a plastic lid, glass or film. Put them in a dark room where the temperature varies between +22 and +25˚C. Every day, air the seedlings for 15 minutes and spray the soil with warm water. Under these conditions, the first shoots will appear on the 3rd-4th week after sowing. Remove the cover at this time. Take the containers to a cooler room (20˚C) and place them in a well-lit area.
Seed propagation does not end here. When 2-4 pairs of full leaves have emerged, the seedlings can be potted into small pots and the roots can be pruned. Some gardeners recommend keeping the exotic plant in the shade for the first 3 days after transplanting. Only then should it be returned to its normal environment. This contrast stimulates more active growth. In summer, the culture is kept outdoors. The following year, the seedlings are moved to a permanent location in the garden.
Seed propagation does not end here. When 2-4 pairs of full leaves have emerged, the seedlings can be potted into small pots and the roots can be pruned. Some gardeners recommend keeping the exotic plant in the shade for the first 3 days after transplanting. Only then should it be returned to its normal environment. This contrast stimulates more active growth. In summer, the culture is kept outdoors. The following year, the seedlings are moved to a permanent location in the garden.
Stratify the seeds at home:
Rinsed and soaked in water, the material is placed in a tightly sealed container - jars, containers or even zip-lock bags will do.
Moisture-soaked sand or a sandy-peat mixture is added.
The ratio of substrate to seed is 3 to 1. The soil itself must be sterile to reduce the risk of damage to the material and minimise the chance of fungal infections.
It is also recommended to add fungicides to the mixture.
The container is then placed in the refrigerator for up to 5 months at a temperature of no more than +3 degrees.
Natural seed stratification outside:
When planting seeds in the ground in autumn, almost no special soil preparation is required. You just have to take the right approach:
- sowing is done in the frozen soil, which must be crusted over;
The seed furrows are prepared a couple of weeks before sowing, while the soil is still loose;
- place the seeds in the furrows at a distance of 15 cm from each other;
- it is best to cover the seeds with a mixture of sand, mulch and ash, as ordinary garden soil tends to stick together into a crust, which prevents germination;
- in the spring, the seedlings are transplanted to another location. When growing in containers at home, up to 4 transplants can be made as the seedlings grow.
After hardening in the refrigerator or outdoors, grow the apple tree from seedlings in a pot, box or container. For this purpose, they should be equipped with holes to drain away excess moisture. At the bottom of the container it is necessary to lay drainage, for this purpose pebbles, expanded clay or even pieces of broken bricks will work well. Then comes a layer of soil mixture, which is prepared as follows: 10 kg of fertile chernozem add 30 g of superphosphate, 20 g of potassium sulfate and 200 g of ash.
The young shoots are transferred to the prepared container with 2-3 sprouts each. The following work is then carried out:
- The seedlings are gently but abundantly watered, without allowing the soil to erode;
- The containers with the plants are placed on a window sill on the south side of the dwelling;
- the potting soil should be periodically moistened;
- if weakened seedlings are found, they should be discarded;
- after living in a pot for 12 months, the young plants should be transplanted to larger containers by pruning the root and bending it at right angles;
- A third replanting is carried out when the previous container becomes too small for the young seedlings.
Seedlings are delicate and fragile. They should therefore be kept at home until they are 4 years old in order to allow the root system to develop.
Rinsed and soaked in water, the material is placed in a tightly sealed container - jars, containers or even zip-lock bags will do.
Moisture-soaked sand or a sandy-peat mixture is added.
The ratio of substrate to seed is 3 to 1. The soil itself must be sterile to reduce the risk of damage to the material and minimise the chance of fungal infections.
It is also recommended to add fungicides to the mixture.
The container is then placed in the refrigerator for up to 5 months at a temperature of no more than +3 degrees.
Natural seed stratification outside:
When planting seeds in the ground in autumn, almost no special soil preparation is required. You just have to take the right approach:
- sowing is done in the frozen soil, which must be crusted over;
The seed furrows are prepared a couple of weeks before sowing, while the soil is still loose;
- place the seeds in the furrows at a distance of 15 cm from each other;
- it is best to cover the seeds with a mixture of sand, mulch and ash, as ordinary garden soil tends to stick together into a crust, which prevents germination;
- in the spring, the seedlings are transplanted to another location. When growing in containers at home, up to 4 transplants can be made as the seedlings grow.
After hardening in the refrigerator or outdoors, grow the apple tree from seedlings in a pot, box or container. For this purpose, they should be equipped with holes to drain away excess moisture. At the bottom of the container it is necessary to lay drainage, for this purpose pebbles, expanded clay or even pieces of broken bricks will work well. Then comes a layer of soil mixture, which is prepared as follows: 10 kg of fertile chernozem add 30 g of superphosphate, 20 g of potassium sulfate and 200 g of ash.
The young shoots are transferred to the prepared container with 2-3 sprouts each. The following work is then carried out:
- The seedlings are gently but abundantly watered, without allowing the soil to erode;
- The containers with the plants are placed on a window sill on the south side of the dwelling;
- the potting soil should be periodically moistened;
- if weakened seedlings are found, they should be discarded;
- after living in a pot for 12 months, the young plants should be transplanted to larger containers by pruning the root and bending it at right angles;
- A third replanting is carried out when the previous container becomes too small for the young seedlings.
Seedlings are delicate and fragile. They should therefore be kept at home until they are 4 years old in order to allow the root system to develop.
Before planting, the pips must always be stratified. This is kept at a low temperature so that they will harden and germinate better. Dry seeds should be poured over with damp sand or sawdust and placed in the cellar or refrigerator. The temperature should be between +1 and +5˚.
The seeds should be checked every week. There should be no rot or mould. If this does occur, the damaged pips and substrate should be discarded, stirred again and moistened if necessary. The duration of stratification should be 3-6 months, depending on the planting date.
Cherries can be grown in this way in any region. Only the planting time differs. In the south, it is recommended to plant pips in autumn, before which they are not kept in the cold, as they will undergo natural stratification in the bed. Make sure that they do not freeze or get waterlogged during thaws.
In northern regions and the midlands, it is advisable to plant pips in the spring in containers or directly in the bed. The stratification begins at the end of November and December. Before this, the pips are stored in paper and a plastic bag at a temperature of +20˚.
The pips are planted 1.5-2 cm deep. If you use a large container instead of a pot and are planting many pips, keep a distance of 15-20 cm between them. If you have done everything correctly, you will be able to see the first shoots after 25 days. In the pot, which will serve as a home for the tree for some time, you should make a drainage of crushed stone, expanded clay or other improvised material. The substrate must always be loosened so that the seedlings' roots receive a sufficient amount of oxygen.
Don't forget to feed the plant - normally with good old 'organic fertiliser' interspersed with mineral fertiliser. Generally, the little tree-to-be needs more food when the first true leaves have appeared. Fertilising sweet cherry trees once every fortnight is sufficient. Organic fertiliser should preferably be made up of humus. Cherry trees will benefit from minor temperature fluctuations, so experts do not advise to keep the pot constantly warm. The tree needs to get used to the conditions in which it will grow! In autumn, you can put the pot (container) on the balcony so that the cherry tree can go into its natural winter hibernation. Just don't forget to insulate the container, otherwise the roots of the plant can freeze.
The seeds should be checked every week. There should be no rot or mould. If this does occur, the damaged pips and substrate should be discarded, stirred again and moistened if necessary. The duration of stratification should be 3-6 months, depending on the planting date.
Cherries can be grown in this way in any region. Only the planting time differs. In the south, it is recommended to plant pips in autumn, before which they are not kept in the cold, as they will undergo natural stratification in the bed. Make sure that they do not freeze or get waterlogged during thaws.
In northern regions and the midlands, it is advisable to plant pips in the spring in containers or directly in the bed. The stratification begins at the end of November and December. Before this, the pips are stored in paper and a plastic bag at a temperature of +20˚.
The pips are planted 1.5-2 cm deep. If you use a large container instead of a pot and are planting many pips, keep a distance of 15-20 cm between them. If you have done everything correctly, you will be able to see the first shoots after 25 days. In the pot, which will serve as a home for the tree for some time, you should make a drainage of crushed stone, expanded clay or other improvised material. The substrate must always be loosened so that the seedlings' roots receive a sufficient amount of oxygen.
Don't forget to feed the plant - normally with good old 'organic fertiliser' interspersed with mineral fertiliser. Generally, the little tree-to-be needs more food when the first true leaves have appeared. Fertilising sweet cherry trees once every fortnight is sufficient. Organic fertiliser should preferably be made up of humus. Cherry trees will benefit from minor temperature fluctuations, so experts do not advise to keep the pot constantly warm. The tree needs to get used to the conditions in which it will grow! In autumn, you can put the pot (container) on the balcony so that the cherry tree can go into its natural winter hibernation. Just don't forget to insulate the container, otherwise the roots of the plant can freeze.
Seeds require a long, two-stage pre-stratification process: I. at 20-25° for 3-4 months, and II. at 4-7° for 7-9 months.
They are mixed with the peat soil mixture, moistened and left indoors at 4-7°C. The seeds will be moistened regularly. Once the time has passed, place the box with the germinated seeds in the light and start cultivating.
Sow the germinated seeds under the greenhouse. When the seedlings have grown strong, they can be transplanted into individual containers. Seedlings that are 2-3 years old should be planted outdoors. Until then, transplant the plants into larger containers as they grow.
They are mixed with the peat soil mixture, moistened and left indoors at 4-7°C. The seeds will be moistened regularly. Once the time has passed, place the box with the germinated seeds in the light and start cultivating.
Sow the germinated seeds under the greenhouse. When the seedlings have grown strong, they can be transplanted into individual containers. Seedlings that are 2-3 years old should be planted outdoors. Until then, transplant the plants into larger containers as they grow.
Stratify for 40-60 days.
The seeds should be sown in seed boxes filled with a nutrient-rich substrate, a peat-sand mixture or special seedling soil. The distance between the seeds should be at least 20 cm. If the seeds are to be planted in rows, the spacing should be 30 cm. The depth of the seed should not exceed 3 cm. Then moisten the soil and place the boxes in a warm, well-lit place. The container with the seeds should be covered with a transparent plastic film. The seedlings will have to wait a long time, so it is important to take good care of them by watering them if they have dried out and by airing them daily. As soon as a couple of leaves have opened, the seedlings can be picked into individual pots with the same substrate. After just one year, the plants will be close to a metre in height and the false orange seedlings can then be transplanted into the open soil. Transplanting should be done in spring once the return frost has lifted. It is very important to protect the seedlings from frost for the first time. It is advisable to either cover them thoroughly with a special fleece (e.g. lutrasil or spunbond), but it is better to move them to greenhouse conditions.
The seeds should be sown in seed boxes filled with a nutrient-rich substrate, a peat-sand mixture or special seedling soil. The distance between the seeds should be at least 20 cm. If the seeds are to be planted in rows, the spacing should be 30 cm. The depth of the seed should not exceed 3 cm. Then moisten the soil and place the boxes in a warm, well-lit place. The container with the seeds should be covered with a transparent plastic film. The seedlings will have to wait a long time, so it is important to take good care of them by watering them if they have dried out and by airing them daily. As soon as a couple of leaves have opened, the seedlings can be picked into individual pots with the same substrate. After just one year, the plants will be close to a metre in height and the false orange seedlings can then be transplanted into the open soil. Transplanting should be done in spring once the return frost has lifted. It is very important to protect the seedlings from frost for the first time. It is advisable to either cover them thoroughly with a special fleece (e.g. lutrasil or spunbond), but it is better to move them to greenhouse conditions.
Seeds need to be stratified at 5° for 1-3 months.
Planting in the spring. Take the soil as a substrate of garden soil, mulch and sand in a ratio of 3:1:1. The earth should be heated and disinfected. Fill containers with drainage holes with soil and moisten sufficiently. Spread the dry seeds evenly over the soil surface at a distance of 5-7 cm from each other, then sprinkle the rest of the soil 1-2 cm. Water the soil generously. Place the seedlings in a bright, warm place, creating a greenhouse effect. Expect to germinate in 30-35 days. Provide the plants with proper care: watering, feeding, timely picking in separate containers. The seedlings can be transplanted into the soil in late May/early June.
Planting in the spring. Take the soil as a substrate of garden soil, mulch and sand in a ratio of 3:1:1. The earth should be heated and disinfected. Fill containers with drainage holes with soil and moisten sufficiently. Spread the dry seeds evenly over the soil surface at a distance of 5-7 cm from each other, then sprinkle the rest of the soil 1-2 cm. Water the soil generously. Place the seedlings in a bright, warm place, creating a greenhouse effect. Expect to germinate in 30-35 days. Provide the plants with proper care: watering, feeding, timely picking in separate containers. The seedlings can be transplanted into the soil in late May/early June.
If the seed coat is artificially damaged (scarification), elderberry seeds will give almost 100 per cent germination. Scarification can be done by treating the seeds with sulphuric acid or by rubbing them with coarse sand.
Planting and caring for elderberry seeds involves sowing them in autumn in a prepared place with a moistened substrate. The seeds are sown in rows spaced about 25 cm apart. The sowing depth is 2-3 cm.
Elderberry seeds planted in this way in the open ground, germinate in spring. The seedlings should be mulched to increase their chance of survival. The seedlings will develop quickly and can be transplanted from the nursery to a permanent location within a year.
Note: The seedlings have a weak root system so they will need extra water, otherwise they may die from lack of moisture.
Planting and caring for elderberry seeds involves sowing them in autumn in a prepared place with a moistened substrate. The seeds are sown in rows spaced about 25 cm apart. The sowing depth is 2-3 cm.
Elderberry seeds planted in this way in the open ground, germinate in spring. The seedlings should be mulched to increase their chance of survival. The seedlings will develop quickly and can be transplanted from the nursery to a permanent location within a year.
Note: The seedlings have a weak root system so they will need extra water, otherwise they may die from lack of moisture.
No stratification is required. If the goji berry is grown from seed, the shrub will begin to bear fruit in about the 3rd-4th year. Goji berry seeds are harvested from dried berries.
To make it easier to remove and not to damage them, the dried fruit is first placed in water. There they need to rest for a while.
When they have softened, it is easy enough to remove the seeds.
To accelerate germination, the seeds can be soaked in a growth stimulator.
Next, prepare crates, pots or other convenient containers, fill their bottom with drainage. Fill the top with soil. Make the furrows 0,5-1 cm deep.
Take the seeds and carefully place them in the bottom of the furrows. Put a little soil on top and cover with glass or cling film.
To make it easier to remove and not to damage them, the dried fruit is first placed in water. There they need to rest for a while.
When they have softened, it is easy enough to remove the seeds.
To accelerate germination, the seeds can be soaked in a growth stimulator.
Next, prepare crates, pots or other convenient containers, fill their bottom with drainage. Fill the top with soil. Make the furrows 0,5-1 cm deep.
Take the seeds and carefully place them in the bottom of the furrows. Put a little soil on top and cover with glass or cling film.
The fruit does not bear fruit until the sixth year of cultivation from seed.
The seeds of privet need to be stratified by sowing them in the open ground in October. Over the winter, they will undergo natural stratification, but turquoise sprouts will not appear until a year later. If you delay sowing seeds until spring, put them in a box with sand and peat and keep at a temperature close to 0 ºC, possibly in the refrigerator. Plant the seeds in loose substrate, one seed per cup to a depth of no more than 2 centimetres. The temperature in the room with the seedlings should not exceed 20 degrees. Watering is required, but in moderation. Backlighting can be done for faster growth. After a year or two, the seedlings can be transplanted to a permanent location.
The seeds of privet need to be stratified by sowing them in the open ground in October. Over the winter, they will undergo natural stratification, but turquoise sprouts will not appear until a year later. If you delay sowing seeds until spring, put them in a box with sand and peat and keep at a temperature close to 0 ºC, possibly in the refrigerator. Plant the seeds in loose substrate, one seed per cup to a depth of no more than 2 centimetres. The temperature in the room with the seedlings should not exceed 20 degrees. Watering is required, but in moderation. Backlighting can be done for faster growth. After a year or two, the seedlings can be transplanted to a permanent location.
The seeds need to be stratified at 1-5° for 3-4 months.
In early autumn, plant the seed in the ground. Thorn pips can also be planted in the spring, but only after they have been previously stratified in the freezer over the winter. For faster germination of the seeds, some growers soak the pips in honey syrup for 12 hours before planting, then plant them in fertile soil to a depth of 6-7 cm. The planting area should be covered until the seedlings emerge. When the seedlings are 2 years old, they can be transplanted to a permanent location.
In early autumn, plant the seed in the ground. Thorn pips can also be planted in the spring, but only after they have been previously stratified in the freezer over the winter. For faster germination of the seeds, some growers soak the pips in honey syrup for 12 hours before planting, then plant them in fertile soil to a depth of 6-7 cm. The planting area should be covered until the seedlings emerge. When the seedlings are 2 years old, they can be transplanted to a permanent location.
During the autumn, the seed is distributed into the prepared seedbeds. The depth of the seed should not exceed 2-3 cm. If sowing is carried out in the spring, it is recommended to carry out pre-sowing preparation, which includes stratification for 3 months. The seeds should be placed in the bottom drawer of a refrigerator (where the temperature is approximately 0-5 degrees Celsius) around mid-winter.
In the furrows, after spreading the seeds, cover them with the same soil and moisten them thoroughly. It is important to remember that the seedlings that emerge will vary in development, but leave more or less equal in height and with regard to the outline and colour of the leaves when picking.
In the furrows, after spreading the seeds, cover them with the same soil and moisten them thoroughly. It is important to remember that the seedlings that emerge will vary in development, but leave more or less equal in height and with regard to the outline and colour of the leaves when picking.
Seeds need to be stratified for 5-6 months at 0-5°C.
Cranberry is propagated using seeds sown directly into the ground in September/October. As soon as the seedlings have grown, they are thinned. Planting in a permanent place takes 2-3 years.
The birchbark is mainly cultivated as a shrub or tree in gardens and parks.
Cranberry is propagated using seeds sown directly into the ground in September/October. As soon as the seedlings have grown, they are thinned. Planting in a permanent place takes 2-3 years.
The birchbark is mainly cultivated as a shrub or tree in gardens and parks.
Sow mahonia seeds in autumn to a depth of 2 cm. You can also sow them in spring after a four-month period of stratification at temperatures between 0 and 5 ºC. Protect the seedlings from direct sunlight for the first time. In autumn, the seedlings should be thinned out or planted in their own containers, and after another year or a year and a half, they should be transplanted to a permanent location. In the first two or three winters, seedlings are covered with lapnuts and covered with snow for the winter. Mahonia flowers from seed in the fourth year.
Barberry seeds can be sown in two ways. In the first case, they are sown in seedpots or boxes with a mixture consisting of garden soil and sand in equal proportions. In the second, directly into the open soil in autumn. In both cases, the soil should be loose and the seeds placed to a depth of about 1 cm. For spring sowing, only seeds that have been stratified for 3-4 months are suitable. They are disinfected in a manganese solution, washed with water and dried. Then wet sand is poured into the tray, mixed with the seeds and covered with a lid. Place the container in the refrigerator until spring. If planted in the autumn, the seeds will undergo natural stratification.
Before planting, they are stratified for six months at a temperature of about 5 degrees for 3 months. They are then sown 3 cm deep. Sown in the spring, they begin to sprout in late summer. But first the rootstock grows. The ground part appears the following year. Therefore, a place for cultivation should be determined so that it can be remembered later. In winter, the site is covered with peat and leaves. The soil should be kept moist. The seed germination rate of the mountain wort is about 80 %.
Growing cloudberries from seed is a time-consuming process. You will need: a container with low sides for stratification; cotton pads; seedling cassettes or peat pellets; and seeds.
Before the seeds can be put in the ground, they need to be stratified. Stratification is the prolonged soaking of seeds at a certain temperature to speed up the germination process.
Place an even layer of cotton pads in the bottom of a container and moisten them with water. Spread the seeds on the discs, keeping some distance between them. After germination of the seeds, the disc can be cut into separate parts, so as not to injure the seedlings.
Cover the seeds with the same damp discs on top. Close the container loosely with a lid, and place it in a refrigerator or other place where the temperature can be kept at 3-5 degrees. The soaking time is 20-30 days.
Cloudberries are a bog plant. The berry will not grow on any other soil. Therefore, to plant cloudberry in the open ground in the garden or in the country house, it will be necessary to equip a special place. It will have to be swamped by yourself. This can be done by following the instructions. When choosing a place, it should be taken into account that cloudberries like light. Therefore, you should not send it to the back of the garden or plant it along the fence. The location should be open and well lit during the day. In the wild, cloudberry grows in boggy areas and it can also be considered that cloudberry is a good neighbour to moss, cowberry and rosemary in its natural habitat. A trench must be dug in the selected area. The trench should be about 0.5 metres deep. Then it is necessary to construct a multi-layer structure: ground - polyethylene - ground - polyethylene. The uppermost layer is a mixture of earth and peat (or substrate). Note: The peat must be removed from the natural growth site of the cloudberry. The prepared area is then generously filled with water. Be prepared to check the level of moisture in the soil on a daily basis and monitor it carefully. An important condition for the successful cultivation of cloudberry is the acidity level of the soil. It should be 4.5 рН. A fungus must be introduced to the cloudberry. This is available from gardening and flower shops. In nature, cloudberries always have a 'neighbour' such as mycorrhizae, which transports all the necessary nutrients from soil and water to the plant's roots. When planting outdoors, make sure that the distance between the bushes is at least 20 cm.
Before the seeds can be put in the ground, they need to be stratified. Stratification is the prolonged soaking of seeds at a certain temperature to speed up the germination process.
Place an even layer of cotton pads in the bottom of a container and moisten them with water. Spread the seeds on the discs, keeping some distance between them. After germination of the seeds, the disc can be cut into separate parts, so as not to injure the seedlings.
Cover the seeds with the same damp discs on top. Close the container loosely with a lid, and place it in a refrigerator or other place where the temperature can be kept at 3-5 degrees. The soaking time is 20-30 days.
Cloudberries are a bog plant. The berry will not grow on any other soil. Therefore, to plant cloudberry in the open ground in the garden or in the country house, it will be necessary to equip a special place. It will have to be swamped by yourself. This can be done by following the instructions. When choosing a place, it should be taken into account that cloudberries like light. Therefore, you should not send it to the back of the garden or plant it along the fence. The location should be open and well lit during the day. In the wild, cloudberry grows in boggy areas and it can also be considered that cloudberry is a good neighbour to moss, cowberry and rosemary in its natural habitat. A trench must be dug in the selected area. The trench should be about 0.5 metres deep. Then it is necessary to construct a multi-layer structure: ground - polyethylene - ground - polyethylene. The uppermost layer is a mixture of earth and peat (or substrate). Note: The peat must be removed from the natural growth site of the cloudberry. The prepared area is then generously filled with water. Be prepared to check the level of moisture in the soil on a daily basis and monitor it carefully. An important condition for the successful cultivation of cloudberry is the acidity level of the soil. It should be 4.5 рН. A fungus must be introduced to the cloudberry. This is available from gardening and flower shops. In nature, cloudberries always have a 'neighbour' such as mycorrhizae, which transports all the necessary nutrients from soil and water to the plant's roots. When planting outdoors, make sure that the distance between the bushes is at least 20 cm.
The seeds are mixed with peat, sawdust, chopped straw (other similar substrate will do) and placed in a container in a thin layer and incubated at +13 - +15°C for 25-30 days. Then the seeds are placed in a cooler at 0-3°C and kept for 125-130 days before sowing.
This procedure has the following advantages: it increases the germination of seeds; it identifies seeds suitable for planting; it helps the selected seeds to maintain their germination until sowing; the seeds are saturated with substances useful for their development. You can take out the containers after stratification in early spring. At the same time, there is no need to rush into planting until the soil has warmed up at least a little. You can revise the substrate and discard the seeds you do not like, but this procedure is not obligatory.
The choice of planting location is of key importance for healthy, strong seedlings. Although the rowan tree is not picky about soils, neutral soils are considered the best choice. The future nursery site should be well sunlit and have enough moisture. When sowing the seeds, they do not need to be removed from the substrate in which they have been stratified. They are put into the soil with this material, which helps them to germinate better. The material should not be buried too deeply in the soil. Covering it with a layer of soil about 5-10 mm thick will suffice. It is considered good practice to place rows 25-30 centimetres apart. The seeds should be spaced densely in the row. Some gardeners practise planting a few pieces at 1-2 centimetre intervals. Such conditions are dictated by low germination rates.
This procedure has the following advantages: it increases the germination of seeds; it identifies seeds suitable for planting; it helps the selected seeds to maintain their germination until sowing; the seeds are saturated with substances useful for their development. You can take out the containers after stratification in early spring. At the same time, there is no need to rush into planting until the soil has warmed up at least a little. You can revise the substrate and discard the seeds you do not like, but this procedure is not obligatory.
The choice of planting location is of key importance for healthy, strong seedlings. Although the rowan tree is not picky about soils, neutral soils are considered the best choice. The future nursery site should be well sunlit and have enough moisture. When sowing the seeds, they do not need to be removed from the substrate in which they have been stratified. They are put into the soil with this material, which helps them to germinate better. The material should not be buried too deeply in the soil. Covering it with a layer of soil about 5-10 mm thick will suffice. It is considered good practice to place rows 25-30 centimetres apart. The seeds should be spaced densely in the row. Some gardeners practise planting a few pieces at 1-2 centimetre intervals. Such conditions are dictated by low germination rates.
Seeds need a long period of cold stratification.
Stratification at 10-15°C for 4 months is also recommended. With both autumn and spring sowing, shoots appear in August and overwinter with cotyledon leaves. After four months, the swollen, stratified seeds are planted in containers with nutritious, light soil. The plants are covered with a centimetre layer of soil and moistened. The first shoots will appear after 2.5-3 months. During this period, it is important to maintain the temperature and humidity conditions.
The first true leaves will appear after about 2 months. At this point, the young shoots should be transplanted into deeper containers with peat mixture. Transplant the plants by very gently lifting the root ball with a fork. The plants are watered and placed in a warm place protected from direct sunlight. The young plants should not be transplanted to a permanent location until the following season.
Stratification at 10-15°C for 4 months is also recommended. With both autumn and spring sowing, shoots appear in August and overwinter with cotyledon leaves. After four months, the swollen, stratified seeds are planted in containers with nutritious, light soil. The plants are covered with a centimetre layer of soil and moistened. The first shoots will appear after 2.5-3 months. During this period, it is important to maintain the temperature and humidity conditions.
The first true leaves will appear after about 2 months. At this point, the young shoots should be transplanted into deeper containers with peat mixture. Transplant the plants by very gently lifting the root ball with a fork. The plants are watered and placed in a warm place protected from direct sunlight. The young plants should not be transplanted to a permanent location until the following season.
Dry seeds need to be stratified at 1-5° for 3-4 months.
Easy to grow from seed, germinating within a month. Planted at a depth of 0.5-1.0 cm Seeds should be sown in early spring (stratified for 3-4 months). Non-stratified seeds should be soaked in water for 2-3 days before sowing. Silkworms will also germinate immediately if sown in summer. Sow them in early April in a greenhouse. In the first year, the seedlings grow to a height of 20-40 cm. They are covered for the winter, with coniferous tree limbs (or better 2-3 years dug out in autumn and stored in the cellar or basement) . The following spring, transplanted to ridges with soil and grow for 2-3 years. Seedlings grow rather slowly and it is not until the third year that they can be used for planting in a permanent location.
Easy to grow from seed, germinating within a month. Planted at a depth of 0.5-1.0 cm Seeds should be sown in early spring (stratified for 3-4 months). Non-stratified seeds should be soaked in water for 2-3 days before sowing. Silkworms will also germinate immediately if sown in summer. Sow them in early April in a greenhouse. In the first year, the seedlings grow to a height of 20-40 cm. They are covered for the winter, with coniferous tree limbs (or better 2-3 years dug out in autumn and stored in the cellar or basement) . The following spring, transplanted to ridges with soil and grow for 2-3 years. Seedlings grow rather slowly and it is not until the third year that they can be used for planting in a permanent location.
The seeds need to be stratified at 1-5° for 3-4 months. This will help to increase the germination of the seeds. The seeds should be placed in damp sand and the container should be placed in a cool place. The optimal place is the bottom shelf of a refrigerator. Keep in this condition for about 3-4 months. The seeds can then be sown into the nutrient-rich soil. Cover the vases with clear plastic. As soon as the first shoots have emerged, the seedlings will need to be opened.
Transplant the young plants into the open soil in the second year after sprouting. Dig a hole for the seedlings that will allow the roots to be well spread. Place a small amount of fertiliser at the bottom of the hole. Then cover with soil and water generously. Cover the soil around the plant with mulch.
Bird cherry trees can also be planted under the winter so that they can undergo natural stratification.
Transplant the young plants into the open soil in the second year after sprouting. Dig a hole for the seedlings that will allow the roots to be well spread. Place a small amount of fertiliser at the bottom of the hole. Then cover with soil and water generously. Cover the soil around the plant with mulch.
Bird cherry trees can also be planted under the winter so that they can undergo natural stratification.
The planting process at home is as follows. Prepare a pot up to 15 cm deep. If the seeds have germinated, they can be planted in separate containers. And you can germinate them by placing them in damp gauze for a few days. Prepare the substrate for raspberries by mixing components such as earth, sand and peat in equal proportions. Place the germinated seeds in a container, deepening them by 0.5 cm. Put the pots in a bright place without direct sunlight. It is important to make sure that the soil is always moist. Water the seedlings in the pot twice a week. Once every 10-12 days, fertilise with a mild solution of urea in the soil. When the seedlings have sprouted and 2-4 leaves have formed, they can be transplanted into the open soil.
If the seeds have been sown too densely, the seedlings will need to be pricked into separate pots before being planted in the garden.
If the seeds have been sown too densely, the seedlings will need to be pricked into separate pots before being planted in the garden.
Two-stage stratification is recommended: I at 20/30° for 3 months and II at 2-5° for at least 3 months.
Spring sowing of blackberry seeds requires a nutritious soil consisting of the following components in equal proportions: peat; sand; soil.
The nutritional value of the mixture can be increased by adding biohumus, following the instructions on the fertiliser package. For seeding blackberry seedlings, small containers - such as ordinary plastic cups or small food containers - filled with 1/3rd of the substrate should be used. As the seedlings grow, periodically replenish the soil so that the root system of the young blackberry bushes is covered by the soil layer at all times. Ready-made peat pellets can be purchased to ensure a balanced composition and the level of acidity of the soil mixture required by the seedlings.
Sowing consists of immersing blackberry seeds in the substrate or placing them on the peat pellets. The seedlings should then be watered and covered with polythene and then placed under a phytolamp. The seedlings should be watered once every 5 days, fertilised once every 2 weeks.
The seedlings will be considered ready for transplanting to the open ground when 4 independent leaves have emerged - they can now be placed in the greenhouse or in the open ground, depending on the climate of the region. When planting, maintain a seedling spacing of at least 10 cm. Choose a well-lit area with fertile soil that has been kept free of weeds. During the first period after transplanting, the seedlings will need frequent watering.
For autumn sowing of blackberry seeds in the open ground, a wind-protected, well-lit and elevated area is suitable. Low-lying places should be avoided: Not only will moisture accumulate there, but cold air will also freeze the seeds and cause them to freeze. A good solution is to sow seeds in a greenhouse - this will protect them from spring frosts when they appear after the snow has melted and the soil has warmed up. Prepare the soil for sowing in the autumn in advance by digging it and fertilising it. A mixture of peat, ash and humus is suitable for this. Afterwards, loosen the seedbeds and water them. The blackberry seeds should be sown into furrows about 1.5 cm deep.
Spring sowing of blackberry seeds requires a nutritious soil consisting of the following components in equal proportions: peat; sand; soil.
The nutritional value of the mixture can be increased by adding biohumus, following the instructions on the fertiliser package. For seeding blackberry seedlings, small containers - such as ordinary plastic cups or small food containers - filled with 1/3rd of the substrate should be used. As the seedlings grow, periodically replenish the soil so that the root system of the young blackberry bushes is covered by the soil layer at all times. Ready-made peat pellets can be purchased to ensure a balanced composition and the level of acidity of the soil mixture required by the seedlings.
Sowing consists of immersing blackberry seeds in the substrate or placing them on the peat pellets. The seedlings should then be watered and covered with polythene and then placed under a phytolamp. The seedlings should be watered once every 5 days, fertilised once every 2 weeks.
The seedlings will be considered ready for transplanting to the open ground when 4 independent leaves have emerged - they can now be placed in the greenhouse or in the open ground, depending on the climate of the region. When planting, maintain a seedling spacing of at least 10 cm. Choose a well-lit area with fertile soil that has been kept free of weeds. During the first period after transplanting, the seedlings will need frequent watering.
For autumn sowing of blackberry seeds in the open ground, a wind-protected, well-lit and elevated area is suitable. Low-lying places should be avoided: Not only will moisture accumulate there, but cold air will also freeze the seeds and cause them to freeze. A good solution is to sow seeds in a greenhouse - this will protect them from spring frosts when they appear after the snow has melted and the soil has warmed up. Prepare the soil for sowing in the autumn in advance by digging it and fertilising it. A mixture of peat, ash and humus is suitable for this. Afterwards, loosen the seedbeds and water them. The blackberry seeds should be sown into furrows about 1.5 cm deep.
Two-stage stratification is recommended: I at 20/30° for 3 months and II at 2-5° for at least 3 months.
The plant propagates easily by creeping shoots and more difficult by seeds. Plant bramble in a shady location, as in nature it mainly grows under the canopy of damp, mostly coniferous forests.
Preferably choose fertile, loose soil for brambleberries. No winter shelter is required. bramble seedlings are best planted in early spring (early April). With plenty of water and some topsoil peat (reddish), you can also try planting in autumn. The main thing is to ensure that the bramble plants have time to take root before the cold sets in, otherwise weak plants could freeze.
Bushes are planted at a distance of 25-30 cm and at least 50 cm between rows. In about 2-3 years, the area will be completely covered by the plants that have grown from the rhizomes.
Watering - in moderation Bramble is undemanding. The only thing you need to worry about is moisture. If the soil is too dry, the yield will decrease and the berries will become smaller. But the wood bramble does not like stagnant water either and so should be watered frequently but in moderation.
The plant propagates easily by creeping shoots and more difficult by seeds. Plant bramble in a shady location, as in nature it mainly grows under the canopy of damp, mostly coniferous forests.
Preferably choose fertile, loose soil for brambleberries. No winter shelter is required. bramble seedlings are best planted in early spring (early April). With plenty of water and some topsoil peat (reddish), you can also try planting in autumn. The main thing is to ensure that the bramble plants have time to take root before the cold sets in, otherwise weak plants could freeze.
Bushes are planted at a distance of 25-30 cm and at least 50 cm between rows. In about 2-3 years, the area will be completely covered by the plants that have grown from the rhizomes.
Watering - in moderation Bramble is undemanding. The only thing you need to worry about is moisture. If the soil is too dry, the yield will decrease and the berries will become smaller. But the wood bramble does not like stagnant water either and so should be watered frequently but in moderation.
We recommend stratification at 2-5° for 4-7 months.
In spring the seeds are sown in a box with moist soil, covered with cling film and placed in a warm place. When the seedlings appear, remove the foil and place the box closer to a source of light (on a window sill, for example).
When the seedlings have reached 15 centimetres, they can be potted into individual pots. As soon as the weather warms up steadily, the young plants can be planted in the open air in their permanent location. The planting holes should be prepared well in advance and spaced one metre apart. After planting, the seedlings will require regular and generous watering until they are fully established.
In spring the seeds are sown in a box with moist soil, covered with cling film and placed in a warm place. When the seedlings appear, remove the foil and place the box closer to a source of light (on a window sill, for example).
When the seedlings have reached 15 centimetres, they can be potted into individual pots. As soon as the weather warms up steadily, the young plants can be planted in the open air in their permanent location. The planting holes should be prepared well in advance and spaced one metre apart. After planting, the seedlings will require regular and generous watering until they are fully established.
Seeds need to be stratified at 5° for 3-4 months.
Sown in late autumn, but preferably in early spring in fluffy, nutritious soil with sand and peat. The soil should not be allowed to become very dry.
It is advisable to allow the seeds to stratify. Mix them with coarse sand (1:3) and keep them in the refrigerator for 20-25 days at a temperature of 0-3 degrees. During this time, they will be stirred 4-5 times. As soon as the seeds start to germinate, dry them for 1-3 hours until they are loose, then sow them to a depth of 2 cm and mulch them with clean sand or other mulch that does not create a crust on the soil surface.
Sown in late autumn, but preferably in early spring in fluffy, nutritious soil with sand and peat. The soil should not be allowed to become very dry.
It is advisable to allow the seeds to stratify. Mix them with coarse sand (1:3) and keep them in the refrigerator for 20-25 days at a temperature of 0-3 degrees. During this time, they will be stirred 4-5 times. As soon as the seeds start to germinate, dry them for 1-3 hours until they are loose, then sow them to a depth of 2 cm and mulch them with clean sand or other mulch that does not create a crust on the soil surface.
In October, the seed is mixed with damp coarse sand and poured into a box. The seeds will have to undergo stratification, i.e. cold treatment.
First, the box with the seeds should be placed in the cellar where the air temperature is +3 to +5 degrees Celsius. In winter, take the container outside and bury it deep into the ground (to a depth of 0.5 metres). You can pour wet sand with the seeds into a bag and put it in the fridge for the winter.
In spring, in March-April, the boxes are dug out, the seeds with sand are sown into a container with fertile and moistened substrate. The soil mixture is prepared from garden soil, peat and humus. The surface of the soil is levelled. Seeds are sown 5 cm apart to a depth of 0.5-1 cm. Cover the soil surface with a transparent foil.
From time to time, lift the foil to aerate the substrate and irrigate it with water. Place the seedlings on a window sill and water them regularly. In spring, the young plants with two true leaves will be picked out of the soil and the main root will be pruned into individual containers.
In early May, the young plants will be moved to the garden and planted with their root ball in a permanent location and lightly shaded. Once it has taken root and is growing, open it up and allow it to grow in the sun.
First, the box with the seeds should be placed in the cellar where the air temperature is +3 to +5 degrees Celsius. In winter, take the container outside and bury it deep into the ground (to a depth of 0.5 metres). You can pour wet sand with the seeds into a bag and put it in the fridge for the winter.
In spring, in March-April, the boxes are dug out, the seeds with sand are sown into a container with fertile and moistened substrate. The soil mixture is prepared from garden soil, peat and humus. The surface of the soil is levelled. Seeds are sown 5 cm apart to a depth of 0.5-1 cm. Cover the soil surface with a transparent foil.
From time to time, lift the foil to aerate the substrate and irrigate it with water. Place the seedlings on a window sill and water them regularly. In spring, the young plants with two true leaves will be picked out of the soil and the main root will be pruned into individual containers.
In early May, the young plants will be moved to the garden and planted with their root ball in a permanent location and lightly shaded. Once it has taken root and is growing, open it up and allow it to grow in the sun.
Two-stage stratification is recommended: I. at 20/30° for 3 months, and II. at 2-5° for at least 3 months.
The seeds are sown in the second half of April, but they are kept in moist sand in the refrigerator or in a cold cellar at +4 °C for 3 months before sowing. This process is called stratification.
The seeds are sown in prepared soil consisting of three parts peat or crushed sphagnum and one or two parts sand, with an acidity of 3-4.5 pH. The temperature should reach +20 °C.
Sprouts appear on day 12, with some sprouting within a month.
When the seedlings reach bush status with 4-5 leaves, they can be planted in the greenhouse, where they will remain for up to a year.
Over the winter, cover the seedlings with a 5-7 cm layer of mulch + two layers of spunbond on top of the wire frame.
In spring, after removing the spunbond, one-year-old plants are planted in a specially prepared plantation for young plants. The distance between the seedlings should be sufficient for the development of the root system (at least 25×25 cm).
To the permanent place of residence, lingonberries are transplanted after the bush matures to two years (30 × 30 and the distance between the rows is 60 cm).
Both in the "school" and at the permanent place of residence, before planting, mineral fertilizer is applied to the soil consisting of peat and sand with the following composition: ammonium sulphate (7 g) and potassium (3 g) + superphosphate (6 g) per square metre.
The seeds are sown in the second half of April, but they are kept in moist sand in the refrigerator or in a cold cellar at +4 °C for 3 months before sowing. This process is called stratification.
The seeds are sown in prepared soil consisting of three parts peat or crushed sphagnum and one or two parts sand, with an acidity of 3-4.5 pH. The temperature should reach +20 °C.
Sprouts appear on day 12, with some sprouting within a month.
When the seedlings reach bush status with 4-5 leaves, they can be planted in the greenhouse, where they will remain for up to a year.
Over the winter, cover the seedlings with a 5-7 cm layer of mulch + two layers of spunbond on top of the wire frame.
In spring, after removing the spunbond, one-year-old plants are planted in a specially prepared plantation for young plants. The distance between the seedlings should be sufficient for the development of the root system (at least 25×25 cm).
To the permanent place of residence, lingonberries are transplanted after the bush matures to two years (30 × 30 and the distance between the rows is 60 cm).
Both in the "school" and at the permanent place of residence, before planting, mineral fertilizer is applied to the soil consisting of peat and sand with the following composition: ammonium sulphate (7 g) and potassium (3 g) + superphosphate (6 g) per square metre.
The main condition for successful germination of annona seeds is a high temperature (25-30 °C), so they should preferably be sown in February-March, while the heating season is not yet over. Containers with soaked seeds in this case are placed near a radiator. The newly emerged seedlings will be kept in a mini-greenhouse at an ambient temperature of 30-35°C during the day and 24-27°C at night. The seeds are sown in spring in very well-drained soil. As soon as the seedlings have grown, they are transferred to pots one at a time. They are then transferred several times into slightly larger pots until they reach a height of approximately 30 cm, then planted out definitively.
For sowing seeds, choose a well-lit area that is away from buildings and trees. First you need to make a trench, which is covered with nutrient soil. The bones are deepened into it by 50-60 mm, while the distance between them should be equal to 20-25 centimeters. Then the seeds need to be sealed and watered very well. After the liquid is absorbed into the soil, the surface of the bed should be covered with a layer of mulch (leaves, grass or sawdust).
Sowing seeds can be done in spring, summer and autumn. If the seeds are sown before winter, then the seeds will undergo natural stratification during the winter months, in the spring, after the garden bed is freed from shelter, seedlings will appear together and start growing.
When seedlings have intensive growth, make sure that the soil in the garden is loose and slightly moist all the time. For their feeding, a solution of humus is used. If necessary, they are sprayed against diseases and pests with a solution of Ridomil or Thiovit.
Before spring planting, stratification is required - during the winter, the bones are stored in the refrigerator, in a container filled with wet peat or sand.
Sowing seeds can be done in spring, summer and autumn. If the seeds are sown before winter, then the seeds will undergo natural stratification during the winter months, in the spring, after the garden bed is freed from shelter, seedlings will appear together and start growing.
When seedlings have intensive growth, make sure that the soil in the garden is loose and slightly moist all the time. For their feeding, a solution of humus is used. If necessary, they are sprayed against diseases and pests with a solution of Ridomil or Thiovit.
Before spring planting, stratification is required - during the winter, the bones are stored in the refrigerator, in a container filled with wet peat or sand.
A two-stage stratification is recommended: I - at 20/30° for 3 months, II - at 2-5° for at least 3 months.
Strawberry seeds are sown in March on moist, compacted compost and lightly pressed down to the surface. The container with crops is covered with glass or film and kept for three days in the vegetable box of the refrigerator, and then moved to a warm place with a temperature of 18-20 ºC. From time to time, the soil is moistened through a sprayer. When shoots appear after about a month, the glass is removed, the container is moved closer to the light, and the temperature is reduced by 3-4 degrees for a week, after which the previous temperature regime is restored - 18-20 ºC. At the stage of development of 3-4 leaves, strawberry seedlings swoop down on peat pots, and in the second half of May, when the threat of return frosts has passed, the seedlings are planted in the garden after preliminary hardening.
Strawberry seeds are sown in March on moist, compacted compost and lightly pressed down to the surface. The container with crops is covered with glass or film and kept for three days in the vegetable box of the refrigerator, and then moved to a warm place with a temperature of 18-20 ºC. From time to time, the soil is moistened through a sprayer. When shoots appear after about a month, the glass is removed, the container is moved closer to the light, and the temperature is reduced by 3-4 degrees for a week, after which the previous temperature regime is restored - 18-20 ºC. At the stage of development of 3-4 leaves, strawberry seedlings swoop down on peat pots, and in the second half of May, when the threat of return frosts has passed, the seedlings are planted in the garden after preliminary hardening.
Previously, the seeds are subjected to cold hardening by placing them in snow or in a refrigerator. Seeds are placed in containers with moist soil, covered with a film, insulated with agrofiber on top and placed under snow, making sure that the air temperature is not higher than +2 ° C, otherwise premature germination of seeds may begin, which will inevitably lead to their death. Before planting, unabi seeds are placed in pots with moist soil and placed in a cold place. In a refrigerator with a temperature of 0 ... + 4 ° C, the seeds are aired every 10 days, while making sure that the soil is always wet. In the spring, as soon as warm weather sets in (at least +10 ° C), seeds are sown in open ground or in a greenhouse (for regions with a cool climate). They are sown in 2-3 pieces to a depth of 3 cm, making an interval between the holes of 5 cm. Moisten the soil and cover with a film. After 3 weeks, the shelter is removed and the crops are thinned out, increasing the distance between the sprouts to 25 cm. Until the cold weather, seedlings are watered every 2 weeks, insulated with non-woven material for the winter, and planted in a permanent place in the spring.
Seeds need stratif. at 3-5° for 3-6 months. Along with this, a two-stage stratification is recommended: I - at 20 ° for 0.5 months, II - at 3 ° for 6-7 months.
To germinate cherry seeds, stratification is required. To do this, they must withstand a certain period of time in the cold. There are two options for this procedure. In the first case, the bones must be put in a plastic bag (in autumn, at the end of October, before the onset of cold weather). And then bury it in the ground until spring. In this case, the seeds will undergo natural stratification, but they will not be available until the soil thaws.
In order to plant in the spring, you can use the second variant of stratification. It consists in the fact that the seeds need to be folded into a damp material, rolled up, and put on top of a plastic bag. Then put the resulting bundle in the vegetable compartment of the refrigerator and leave for at least 3 months. During this time, it is necessary to periodically moisten the material so that the seeds do not dry out.
At the end of the stratification, you can begin to germinate the seeds. To do this, you need to additionally keep the bones in water for 3-5 days, changing it every 12 hours. You should also prepare pots with a height of at least 15 cm and a nutrient substrate. If desired, the soil can be prepared independently. To do this, mix turf, peat, leaf soil, sand and humus in a ratio of 2: 1: 1: 1: 1.
Step-by-step instructions for germinating drupes: Lay a drainage layer on the bottom of the pots. Fill the rest of the space with nutrient soil. Water generously and wait until the moisture is completely absorbed. Level the surface, deepen the seeds 1 cm into the ground. Top with earth. Moisten the surface with a spray bottle. At the end of the procedure, the pots must be covered with a transparent film and placed in a shaded place with a temperature of +25 degrees. Periodically, the shelter must be removed and the containers ventilated.
After the appearance of friendly seedlings, the containers should be transferred to a bright windowsill and the temperature should be lowered to + 16 ... + 18 degrees. This will prevent stretching of the shoots and stimulate the growth of the root system.
Otherwise, care is the same as for other plants in the house. Seedlings should be watered as the top layer of soil dries out. Periodically loosen the soil in a pot, and fertilize with organic matter once every 2 weeks. When the seedlings grow up, they should be planted in separate pots. Young trees should be planted in a permanent place in the country or in the garden at the age of at least 2 years.
To germinate cherry seeds, stratification is required. To do this, they must withstand a certain period of time in the cold. There are two options for this procedure. In the first case, the bones must be put in a plastic bag (in autumn, at the end of October, before the onset of cold weather). And then bury it in the ground until spring. In this case, the seeds will undergo natural stratification, but they will not be available until the soil thaws.
In order to plant in the spring, you can use the second variant of stratification. It consists in the fact that the seeds need to be folded into a damp material, rolled up, and put on top of a plastic bag. Then put the resulting bundle in the vegetable compartment of the refrigerator and leave for at least 3 months. During this time, it is necessary to periodically moisten the material so that the seeds do not dry out.
At the end of the stratification, you can begin to germinate the seeds. To do this, you need to additionally keep the bones in water for 3-5 days, changing it every 12 hours. You should also prepare pots with a height of at least 15 cm and a nutrient substrate. If desired, the soil can be prepared independently. To do this, mix turf, peat, leaf soil, sand and humus in a ratio of 2: 1: 1: 1: 1.
Step-by-step instructions for germinating drupes: Lay a drainage layer on the bottom of the pots. Fill the rest of the space with nutrient soil. Water generously and wait until the moisture is completely absorbed. Level the surface, deepen the seeds 1 cm into the ground. Top with earth. Moisten the surface with a spray bottle. At the end of the procedure, the pots must be covered with a transparent film and placed in a shaded place with a temperature of +25 degrees. Periodically, the shelter must be removed and the containers ventilated.
After the appearance of friendly seedlings, the containers should be transferred to a bright windowsill and the temperature should be lowered to + 16 ... + 18 degrees. This will prevent stretching of the shoots and stimulate the growth of the root system.
Otherwise, care is the same as for other plants in the house. Seedlings should be watered as the top layer of soil dries out. Periodically loosen the soil in a pot, and fertilize with organic matter once every 2 weeks. When the seedlings grow up, they should be planted in separate pots. Young trees should be planted in a permanent place in the country or in the garden at the age of at least 2 years.
Seeds need stratif. at 3-5° for 3-6 months.
Planting in the spring. Seeds are previously subjected to stratification, that is, long-term keeping of seeds at a certain temperature for their further fruitful germination. The same process goes through the bones planted in the fall, only in a more natural way.
Around the end of January, the bones are placed in a box of damp sand, which is then lowered into the cellar or refrigerated until April. The storage temperature must be +2°C at all times and the sand must always be damp.
Or, in early March, the seeds can be soaked in water for three days, changing the water every day and preventing souring. After the bones have been saturated with moisture, they are placed in wet sand, lowered into the cellar, and in April they are planted in the same way as in autumn.
For sowing in autumn, the seeds are placed in a pre-prepared trench 5-6 cm deep (depth for large seeds, if the seeds are smaller, then the depth is less). Humus, straw, sand, black soil are laid out at the bottom of the trench, bones are placed next, then they are sprinkled with the same composition, and sprinkled with earth on top.
Planting in the spring. Seeds are previously subjected to stratification, that is, long-term keeping of seeds at a certain temperature for their further fruitful germination. The same process goes through the bones planted in the fall, only in a more natural way.
Around the end of January, the bones are placed in a box of damp sand, which is then lowered into the cellar or refrigerated until April. The storage temperature must be +2°C at all times and the sand must always be damp.
Or, in early March, the seeds can be soaked in water for three days, changing the water every day and preventing souring. After the bones have been saturated with moisture, they are placed in wet sand, lowered into the cellar, and in April they are planted in the same way as in autumn.
For sowing in autumn, the seeds are placed in a pre-prepared trench 5-6 cm deep (depth for large seeds, if the seeds are smaller, then the depth is less). Humus, straw, sand, black soil are laid out at the bottom of the trench, bones are placed next, then they are sprinkled with the same composition, and sprinkled with earth on top.
It is quite difficult to propagate dogwood due to the difficulty of germination of its seeds, which have a very deep dormancy and have very dense seed coats. Seeds sown in autumn partially germinate in the second, and most in the third and even fourth year. Pre-sowing preparation of seeds requires their long-term stratification. In practice, in the presence of greenhouses, the following method of stratification of dogwood seeds showed good results. Seeds are placed in boxes with wet sand (moss, sawdust) and placed in a greenhouse in which there is a layer of manure (preferably horse manure) 40 cm thick, then a layer of earth 10 cm. Germination in this case reaches 70-80%. Before laying seeds for stratification, a prerequisite is their preliminary soaking in water for 3 days. Water must be changed to speed up the physiological processes necessary for seed germination.
There is an accelerated way of stratification. Treat the peeled seeds for three days with a 2% solution of sulfuric acid. After such a procedure, sow them in a box with sand to a depth of 2-3 cm and constantly moisten for six months. By spring, the first shoots appeared. Of course, it was not 100%, but they sprouted quickly.
Further care for seedlings is usual: do not allow drying out, shade from hot summer rays, periodically weed weeds, mulch the soil. In the first year, seedlings will grow only 4 cm from ground level. By the second year by 15 cm, then they can be transplanted to a permanent place.
There is an accelerated way of stratification. Treat the peeled seeds for three days with a 2% solution of sulfuric acid. After such a procedure, sow them in a box with sand to a depth of 2-3 cm and constantly moisten for six months. By spring, the first shoots appeared. Of course, it was not 100%, but they sprouted quickly.
Further care for seedlings is usual: do not allow drying out, shade from hot summer rays, periodically weed weeds, mulch the soil. In the first year, seedlings will grow only 4 cm from ground level. By the second year by 15 cm, then they can be transplanted to a permanent place.
Seeds need stratif. at 1-5° for 3-4 months.
Seeds for stratification are sent 3-4 months before sowing, that is, in the south, the process starts already in November, to the north - in early February.
For Ukraine and the South, there is also such an option: start stratification in February, and in April sow the seeds immediately into the ground, bypassing growing on the windowsill.
Stratification steps: Wrap the seeds in a damp cloth and place in a plastic bag. Poke holes in it first with a toothpick so that the seeds can breathe. Place the package at the very bottom of the refrigerator. The optimum temperature is +1… +5 °C. Once a week, take out the seeds, unwrap, rinse with clean water, change the bag and napkin to prevent mold and rot.
Seeds can germinate in the refrigerator ahead of time. We will have to sow them immediately and take great care: protect them from diseases and pests, illuminate them. The reason for premature germination is the temperature in the refrigerator is above the optimum. This can be avoided by monitoring not only the seeds, but also the temperature inside the refrigerator.
Seeds for stratification are sent 3-4 months before sowing, that is, in the south, the process starts already in November, to the north - in early February.
For Ukraine and the South, there is also such an option: start stratification in February, and in April sow the seeds immediately into the ground, bypassing growing on the windowsill.
Stratification steps: Wrap the seeds in a damp cloth and place in a plastic bag. Poke holes in it first with a toothpick so that the seeds can breathe. Place the package at the very bottom of the refrigerator. The optimum temperature is +1… +5 °C. Once a week, take out the seeds, unwrap, rinse with clean water, change the bag and napkin to prevent mold and rot.
Seeds can germinate in the refrigerator ahead of time. We will have to sow them immediately and take great care: protect them from diseases and pests, illuminate them. The reason for premature germination is the temperature in the refrigerator is above the optimum. This can be avoided by monitoring not only the seeds, but also the temperature inside the refrigerator.
Recommended stratif. at 2-5° for 4-7 months
Seeds are sown in autumn, in October, directly into the ground, the grooves are sprinkled with humus and sawdust. In early spring, a frame is installed over the crops and a plastic film is pulled over it so that the seeds germinate faster. When the seedlings have a pair of true leaves, they can be seated. For spring sowing, it is advisable to stratify the seeds, that is, mix them with peat or river sand and place in the refrigerator at a temperature of 2-3 ºC, taking out and stirring from time to time. In order for the sprout to germinate calmly, the dense shell that covers the rosehip seeds must be partially destroyed. This is achieved by prolonged exposure to cold in a humid environment: the seeds are placed in wet sand and stored in a refrigerator until sowing.
Seeds are sown in autumn, in October, directly into the ground, the grooves are sprinkled with humus and sawdust. In early spring, a frame is installed over the crops and a plastic film is pulled over it so that the seeds germinate faster. When the seedlings have a pair of true leaves, they can be seated. For spring sowing, it is advisable to stratify the seeds, that is, mix them with peat or river sand and place in the refrigerator at a temperature of 2-3 ºC, taking out and stirring from time to time. In order for the sprout to germinate calmly, the dense shell that covers the rosehip seeds must be partially destroyed. This is achieved by prolonged exposure to cold in a humid environment: the seeds are placed in wet sand and stored in a refrigerator until sowing.
When sowing in ridges / boxes on the street, it sprouts for 2-3 years. Seeds need a two-stage stratification:
I - at 20-25° for 3-4 months, II - at 4-7° for 7-9 months.
The substrate for medlar can be purchased at the store, or you can make it yourself from equal parts of sheet soil, humus, sand and peat. Fill the pot with drainage holes with the substrate, remembering to first place a layer of expanded clay in it. Loquat seeds are buried in moistened soil by 2 cm (up to six seeds can be placed in one pot), after which the surface is covered with a film or covered with glass. In anticipation of seedlings, crops are placed in a warm, bright place, for example, on a windowsill. Not earlier than in a month, sprouts will appear, and it will be necessary to shade the seedlings from direct sunlight, ventilate the crops daily and remove condensation from the coating so that fungal diseases do not affect the plants from dampness. When the shoots grow to 2 cm, the cover is removed from the pot, and the seedlings are kept at a temperature not lower than 18 ºC. If it's summer outside, put a pot of medlar on a balcony or terrace, protecting young plants from gusts of wind, drafts and bright sun. Keep the substrate slightly moist by watering it 2-3 times a week. If the medlar has risen, then its growth will be rapid: in a month the seedlings can grow up to 15 cm, and then, so that they do not interfere with each other, they are planted in separate deep containers with a soil mixture of coarse-grained river sand, peat and humus. Weak seedlings after transplantation may die, but there's nothing to be done - natural selection ... And large and strong plants will become even larger and stronger.
I - at 20-25° for 3-4 months, II - at 4-7° for 7-9 months.
The substrate for medlar can be purchased at the store, or you can make it yourself from equal parts of sheet soil, humus, sand and peat. Fill the pot with drainage holes with the substrate, remembering to first place a layer of expanded clay in it. Loquat seeds are buried in moistened soil by 2 cm (up to six seeds can be placed in one pot), after which the surface is covered with a film or covered with glass. In anticipation of seedlings, crops are placed in a warm, bright place, for example, on a windowsill. Not earlier than in a month, sprouts will appear, and it will be necessary to shade the seedlings from direct sunlight, ventilate the crops daily and remove condensation from the coating so that fungal diseases do not affect the plants from dampness. When the shoots grow to 2 cm, the cover is removed from the pot, and the seedlings are kept at a temperature not lower than 18 ºC. If it's summer outside, put a pot of medlar on a balcony or terrace, protecting young plants from gusts of wind, drafts and bright sun. Keep the substrate slightly moist by watering it 2-3 times a week. If the medlar has risen, then its growth will be rapid: in a month the seedlings can grow up to 15 cm, and then, so that they do not interfere with each other, they are planted in separate deep containers with a soil mixture of coarse-grained river sand, peat and humus. Weak seedlings after transplantation may die, but there's nothing to be done - natural selection ... And large and strong plants will become even larger and stronger.
Seeds need stratif. at 3-5° for 3-6 months.
Seeds can be sown in pots all year round.
For good germination, seeds need preparation - you need to soak them in water for 24 hours and stratify (cool) in the refrigerator for 3-6 months at a temperature of 5 ° C.
Seeds for stratification are placed in a substrate prepared from clean, wet sand or sand mixed with peat in a ratio of 1:1. The ratio of seeds to substrate is 1:3, they are mixed so that individual seeds have less contact with each other. A mixture of seeds and substrate is placed in plastic containers or zippered bags. Every 2 weeks and in the last month of stratification weekly, the contents of the container should be mixed, ventilated, and moistened if necessary. After the appearance of the first shoots, stratification stops and the seeds are sown in pots or open ground.
Seeds can be sown in pots all year round.
For good germination, seeds need preparation - you need to soak them in water for 24 hours and stratify (cool) in the refrigerator for 3-6 months at a temperature of 5 ° C.
Seeds for stratification are placed in a substrate prepared from clean, wet sand or sand mixed with peat in a ratio of 1:1. The ratio of seeds to substrate is 1:3, they are mixed so that individual seeds have less contact with each other. A mixture of seeds and substrate is placed in plastic containers or zippered bags. Every 2 weeks and in the last month of stratification weekly, the contents of the container should be mixed, ventilated, and moistened if necessary. After the appearance of the first shoots, stratification stops and the seeds are sown in pots or open ground.
A two-stage stratification is recommended: I - at room. T within 1 month, II - at 1-3 ° for 2 months. Seeding is superficial. The seeds are photosensitive. When placed in the dark at the germination stage, they do not sprout, including after being transferred to the light.
Blueberry seeds need to be placed in a mini greenhouse for germination. To do this, you need to take a plastic container with a lid, lay a paper towel on the bottom and moisten it with water, but so that the water does not stand much. And on this wet towel you need to spread the seeds. Then close the lid and put the container in a warm place.
Here you will need to be patient. Blueberries will germinate this way in about a month. Maybe a little earlier, maybe a little later. The humidity in the container will also need to be monitored all the time. Seedlings will definitely appear. As soon as the seeds germinate, you can proceed to transplant. Transplanted sprouts acquire a more or less presentable appearance after 7 days. It is important to use acidic soil, as blueberries love it. Peat is well suited for planting germinated seeds. And it is very important not to allow it to dry out, it should always be wet. These are the conditions that blueberries love. Otherwise, the sprouts can quickly die.
Blueberry seeds need to be placed in a mini greenhouse for germination. To do this, you need to take a plastic container with a lid, lay a paper towel on the bottom and moisten it with water, but so that the water does not stand much. And on this wet towel you need to spread the seeds. Then close the lid and put the container in a warm place.
Here you will need to be patient. Blueberries will germinate this way in about a month. Maybe a little earlier, maybe a little later. The humidity in the container will also need to be monitored all the time. Seedlings will definitely appear. As soon as the seeds germinate, you can proceed to transplant. Transplanted sprouts acquire a more or less presentable appearance after 7 days. It is important to use acidic soil, as blueberries love it. Peat is well suited for planting germinated seeds. And it is very important not to allow it to dry out, it should always be wet. These are the conditions that blueberries love. Otherwise, the sprouts can quickly die.
Disinfect in a solution of Epin or Zircon for 10-12 hours. To do this, pour water into a shallow container so that the seeds are half filled, and add 1 tsp. liquid 2-3 drops of the drug. It is impossible to allow the grains to be completely immersed in water, since without oxygen the germination process will not begin.
To speed up seed germination, you can lightly rub the surface of the stone with a knife, then pierce the shell with a needle and wrap the seed in a damp cloth, moistening it regularly. In this state, the grain should be 3 days.
After carrying out such manipulations, the seeds will germinate as soon as they enter the soil.
The soil should be loose, well pass moisture and air, have a neutral level of acidity. But the plant can take root on other substrates, in natural conditions it grows on clay, sand. From ready-made soil mixtures, the optimal solution is a universal soil for roses, begonias. You can also make a substrate yourself, taking in the same parts: humus, soddy soil, leafy soil, river sand.
A plastic container, a wooden box or a flower pot will serve as a container for sowing. The container for planting must be selected shallow, since the roots of the pomegranate can grow in breadth.
To obtain a high percentage of seed germination, it is required to follow a clear algorithm of actions when sowing pomegranate seeds:
Lay a drainage layer of expanded clay on the bottom of the selected containers, then fill them with a soil mixture and moisten them with clean water from a spray bottle on top.
Distribute the seeds evenly over the surface, keeping a distance of at least 3 cm between them so that the roots do not intertwine during development.
Carefully deepen the bones into the substrate by 1-1.5 cm. The soil should remain loose, it should not be compacted.
Cover the container with crops with glass or film to create a greenhouse effect and put it in a warm and bright place.
A strong deepening will provoke inhibition of rooting, and a surface landing will lead to a slow emergence of pomegranate seedlings.
Conditions and rules for the care of seedlings
In order to grow strong, healthy seedlings of an exotic crop, it is important to provide the plants with appropriate care and comfortable conditions from the first days after sowing.
Before germination, you must:
After sowing, maintain the temperature in the room with seedlings at +25-30°C.
Every day, remove the film for 15-30 minutes to avoid waterlogging.
Water the pomegranate regularly, preventing the soil from drying out.
In winter, use phytolamps for additional lighting, increasing the daylight hours to 12 hours.
The first shoots will not be long in coming and will appear in 2 weeks. But if sowing is carried out at the wrong time and in violation of the planting rules, then the wait for sprouts can be delayed up to a month.
Small pomegranate sprouts need to provide optimal conditions for normal growth and development:
Remove cover, but only gradually, each time extending the time.
Rearrange the pot in a place whose temperature indicators are in the range of + 18-25 ° С.
Organize a daylight hours of at least 10 hours. It is important to additionally illuminate the pomegranate using a phytolamp.
Conduct moderate watering as the soil dries out, using separated and warm water.
Do not forget to spray the seedlings 1 time in 2 days.
Regularly ventilate the room, protecting the sprouts from drafts.
As 2-3 pairs of leaves are formed on the seedlings, they need to be planted, while removing all weak shoots. From them it will not be possible to grow strong and healthy plants. When picking, the central root of the seedling needs to be pinched a little. This will help the pomegranate grow a large number of suction lateral roots, which will increase the ability to absorb nutrients and moisture.
A month after picking the top of the plant, it is important to shorten it by 1/3 of the length. This manipulation will contribute to a better development of the root system.
To speed up seed germination, you can lightly rub the surface of the stone with a knife, then pierce the shell with a needle and wrap the seed in a damp cloth, moistening it regularly. In this state, the grain should be 3 days.
After carrying out such manipulations, the seeds will germinate as soon as they enter the soil.
The soil should be loose, well pass moisture and air, have a neutral level of acidity. But the plant can take root on other substrates, in natural conditions it grows on clay, sand. From ready-made soil mixtures, the optimal solution is a universal soil for roses, begonias. You can also make a substrate yourself, taking in the same parts: humus, soddy soil, leafy soil, river sand.
A plastic container, a wooden box or a flower pot will serve as a container for sowing. The container for planting must be selected shallow, since the roots of the pomegranate can grow in breadth.
To obtain a high percentage of seed germination, it is required to follow a clear algorithm of actions when sowing pomegranate seeds:
Lay a drainage layer of expanded clay on the bottom of the selected containers, then fill them with a soil mixture and moisten them with clean water from a spray bottle on top.
Distribute the seeds evenly over the surface, keeping a distance of at least 3 cm between them so that the roots do not intertwine during development.
Carefully deepen the bones into the substrate by 1-1.5 cm. The soil should remain loose, it should not be compacted.
Cover the container with crops with glass or film to create a greenhouse effect and put it in a warm and bright place.
A strong deepening will provoke inhibition of rooting, and a surface landing will lead to a slow emergence of pomegranate seedlings.
Conditions and rules for the care of seedlings
In order to grow strong, healthy seedlings of an exotic crop, it is important to provide the plants with appropriate care and comfortable conditions from the first days after sowing.
Before germination, you must:
After sowing, maintain the temperature in the room with seedlings at +25-30°C.
Every day, remove the film for 15-30 minutes to avoid waterlogging.
Water the pomegranate regularly, preventing the soil from drying out.
In winter, use phytolamps for additional lighting, increasing the daylight hours to 12 hours.
The first shoots will not be long in coming and will appear in 2 weeks. But if sowing is carried out at the wrong time and in violation of the planting rules, then the wait for sprouts can be delayed up to a month.
Small pomegranate sprouts need to provide optimal conditions for normal growth and development:
Remove cover, but only gradually, each time extending the time.
Rearrange the pot in a place whose temperature indicators are in the range of + 18-25 ° С.
Organize a daylight hours of at least 10 hours. It is important to additionally illuminate the pomegranate using a phytolamp.
Conduct moderate watering as the soil dries out, using separated and warm water.
Do not forget to spray the seedlings 1 time in 2 days.
Regularly ventilate the room, protecting the sprouts from drafts.
As 2-3 pairs of leaves are formed on the seedlings, they need to be planted, while removing all weak shoots. From them it will not be possible to grow strong and healthy plants. When picking, the central root of the seedling needs to be pinched a little. This will help the pomegranate grow a large number of suction lateral roots, which will increase the ability to absorb nutrients and moisture.
A month after picking the top of the plant, it is important to shorten it by 1/3 of the length. This manipulation will contribute to a better development of the root system.
Cover the seeds with damp loose clean sand and put in a jar for 1.5 months in the refrigerator. After stratification of seeds, they are sown in late February - early March in seed boxes. The soil mix consists of 2 parts of peat and 1 part of sand. Seeds are sown superficially, sprinkled with 2 mm of sand. With regular soil moisture, seedlings will appear in 2 weeks at a temperature of + 20 + 25 ° С. Seed germination is high, so sow less often. When the seedlings reach 5 cm, they dive. For a year at room conditions, in a deep pot with nutrient soil, figs can grow up to 70 cm. Moreover, if the room is constantly warm and well lit (south window), it does not shed its leaves for the winter.
The bones must be soaked in gauze for several days. The main thing to remember is that there should not be a lot of water. The gauze must be damp. For one tree, you need to prepare about fifteen seeds, since not all will swell and sprout. Sprouted seeds must be planted in a pot. Only first you need to choose the right soil / soil. The ideal option would be to purchase special soil for citrus trees. However, this is not so important, ordinary soil will do. Since the homemade tangerine tree is unpretentious. Therefore, you can choose a mixture of soil from turf and leaves. It is important to remember that you can not choose peat, as it will quickly turn sour and dry out, besides, it has a minimum of beneficial bacteria. You can also make your own potting mix. To do this, you will need: sand, turf, humus, leafy soil, clay. For drainage you need: small pebbles, expanded clay, brick chips. Next, a drainage layer is laid out at the bottom of the pot, and a soil mixture is laid on top of it.
Only after that, ready-made seeds can be planted, which will sprout in a few weeks. It is impossible to say in advance how long it will take for a seed to germinate and sprout. In some cases, it is 15 days, but more often - about a month. In any case, before germination, it is important to monitor soil moisture and air temperature, which should not fall below +20 ° C and exceed +25 ° C. At the same time, it is not recommended to place pots in a mini greenhouse, tangerines sprout so well, and plants grown in greenhouse conditions will then need to be accustomed to room conditions.
Only after that, ready-made seeds can be planted, which will sprout in a few weeks. It is impossible to say in advance how long it will take for a seed to germinate and sprout. In some cases, it is 15 days, but more often - about a month. In any case, before germination, it is important to monitor soil moisture and air temperature, which should not fall below +20 ° C and exceed +25 ° C. At the same time, it is not recommended to place pots in a mini greenhouse, tangerines sprout so well, and plants grown in greenhouse conditions will then need to be accustomed to room conditions.
Seeds need stratif. at 5° for 1-3 months. In the light, germination improves.
Conditions for sowing seeds: soil mixture - sandy loam of a neutral or slightly acidic reaction. The place is well lit. Protection from wind and frost. Seeds sown at the end of summer germinate in the spring of the next calendar year. During the winter, they undergo a natural stratification and germinate in April. It is not scary if shoots appear in the fall. For the winter, they need to be covered with dry grass or straw, with a layer of 15 - 20 cm.
You can sow irgu in the spring. Then the seeds need to be prepared, since autumn, keep them in wet sand, but in a dark place, at a temperature of +5. Three months before sowing, gardeners recommend placing shadberry seeds in a damp cloth moistened with hydrogen peroxide and keeping them cool in a plastic bag.
Seeds are sown in grooves, the width between which is 20 cm. 2 g of seeds are spent per linear meter (140 pcs. in 1 g). Placed at a depth of 2 cm. The sprouted irgu dive in stage 2 - 3 sheets.
Conditions for sowing seeds: soil mixture - sandy loam of a neutral or slightly acidic reaction. The place is well lit. Protection from wind and frost. Seeds sown at the end of summer germinate in the spring of the next calendar year. During the winter, they undergo a natural stratification and germinate in April. It is not scary if shoots appear in the fall. For the winter, they need to be covered with dry grass or straw, with a layer of 15 - 20 cm.
You can sow irgu in the spring. Then the seeds need to be prepared, since autumn, keep them in wet sand, but in a dark place, at a temperature of +5. Three months before sowing, gardeners recommend placing shadberry seeds in a damp cloth moistened with hydrogen peroxide and keeping them cool in a plastic bag.
Seeds are sown in grooves, the width between which is 20 cm. 2 g of seeds are spent per linear meter (140 pcs. in 1 g). Placed at a depth of 2 cm. The sprouted irgu dive in stage 2 - 3 sheets.
Like citrus fruits, poncirus seeds do not tolerate drying, losing germination. It is better to stratify the seeds in the refrigerator, in wet coarse sand at a low, positive temperature.
We soak the seeds of poncirus for 5-6 hours along with a growth stimulator (succinic or boric acid, "Heteroauxin"). We plant the seeds in moist soil to a depth of 0.5-1 cm. We cover the pot with a film, and put it in a bright room with a temperature of 23-28 degrees Celsius. After 7-10 days, we check the shoots. It is possible to transplant an ascended plant into another pot or into open ground only after 3 months. Wild lemon poncirus grows slowly for the first 2-3 years after germination, in the 4th year it begins to grow rapidly (up to 50 cm per year), bears fruit at 4-5 years.
We soak the seeds of poncirus for 5-6 hours along with a growth stimulator (succinic or boric acid, "Heteroauxin"). We plant the seeds in moist soil to a depth of 0.5-1 cm. We cover the pot with a film, and put it in a bright room with a temperature of 23-28 degrees Celsius. After 7-10 days, we check the shoots. It is possible to transplant an ascended plant into another pot or into open ground only after 3 months. Wild lemon poncirus grows slowly for the first 2-3 years after germination, in the 4th year it begins to grow rapidly (up to 50 cm per year), bears fruit at 4-5 years.
Seeds retain their germination capacity up to 2 years, but germinate poorly. You can sow them both in spring and autumn. If you sow the seeds immediately into the ground in late autumn, then the process of their germination will be long, since the seed will begin to germinate only after 18 months. This is a simple method that does not require special training and effort. Well-ripened seeds should be sown on the soil surface in the shade from bushes, trees, buildings, because moisture is better preserved here. A bed with sown seeds should be protected until germination and rooting of seedlings. Therefore, you can not even pull out the weeds. In order to avoid damage to the underground shoots of viburnum and to prevent the death of sprouts from drought, it is better to mulch the area. The seedling will begin to develop only in the spring of the second year of planting, and only then will it have shoots. It is possible to sprout earlier if a small amount of wet sand is mixed into the seeds and this mixture is kept for several weeks, first at room temperature at home and then in the cooler conditions of the refrigerator.
Fill a small bowl with clean water at room temperature. Put the seeds in water and wait 24 hours for them to absorb the moisture. By doing so, you will increase the chances of seed germination, as their shell will soften. After soaking the seeds for 24 hours, drain the water and place the seeds on a clean towel. Do not soak the seeds for more than 24 hours, as they may become too soft and not sprout.
Plant the seeds in a prepared pot or open ground. Take a 10 cm pot with drainage holes in the bottom, or choose a suitable site in the garden for planting seeds. If you are going to germinate an orange outdoors, dig a small hole and place the seeds in it. If you are using a pot, add some pebbles to the bottom to improve water drainage, and place potting soil on top of it. With your finger, squeeze a hole about 1.5 centimeters deep in the center of the pot. Put the seeds in the hole and cover them with soil. After planting the seeds in a pot, make sure that it receives enough direct sunlight daily.
Fertilize and water the seeds as they germinate. Tender sprouts will need a light fertilizer, such as compost tea. Add enough compost tea to keep the soil moist. Fertilize the soil once every two weeks and water it once a week, or as soon as it dries out. If the soil dries out too often, the orange tree will wither. When the sprout begins to grow into a tree, it will become larger and leaves will appear on it.
When leaves appear, prepare a larger pot. After a few weeks, when the shoots grow and leaves appear on them, they should be transplanted into a larger pot. Suitable pot with a diameter of 20-25 centimeters. Make sure it has drainage holes, and fill the bottom with a layer of pebbles or small stones. Fill most of the pot with potting soil. Mix equal proportions of peat moss and sand to create well-drained, slightly acidic soil. For an orange, a pH level in the range of 6.0-7.0 is suitable. You can also purchase soil for growing citrus fruits at a garden supply store.
Plant the seeds in a prepared pot or open ground. Take a 10 cm pot with drainage holes in the bottom, or choose a suitable site in the garden for planting seeds. If you are going to germinate an orange outdoors, dig a small hole and place the seeds in it. If you are using a pot, add some pebbles to the bottom to improve water drainage, and place potting soil on top of it. With your finger, squeeze a hole about 1.5 centimeters deep in the center of the pot. Put the seeds in the hole and cover them with soil. After planting the seeds in a pot, make sure that it receives enough direct sunlight daily.
Fertilize and water the seeds as they germinate. Tender sprouts will need a light fertilizer, such as compost tea. Add enough compost tea to keep the soil moist. Fertilize the soil once every two weeks and water it once a week, or as soon as it dries out. If the soil dries out too often, the orange tree will wither. When the sprout begins to grow into a tree, it will become larger and leaves will appear on it.
When leaves appear, prepare a larger pot. After a few weeks, when the shoots grow and leaves appear on them, they should be transplanted into a larger pot. Suitable pot with a diameter of 20-25 centimeters. Make sure it has drainage holes, and fill the bottom with a layer of pebbles or small stones. Fill most of the pot with potting soil. Mix equal proportions of peat moss and sand to create well-drained, slightly acidic soil. For an orange, a pH level in the range of 6.0-7.0 is suitable. You can also purchase soil for growing citrus fruits at a garden supply store.
Choose a site suitable for gumi, ideally it should become a permanent place of residence for a young plant. Make small holes 2-2.5 cm deep at a distance of 20 cm. Place gumi bones in the holes. Sprinkle with wood ash and cover with soil. Above the plantings, build a shelter from a film from frost. In winter, make sure that the bed is covered with snow. Shoots of gumi should appear in the spring. Some gardeners claim that spring sowing gives better results than winter sowing. But for this it is necessary to preserve viable seeds and arrange stratification for them - an imitation of winter. In late September or early October, transfer the seeds to a container and mix with damp sand, sawdust, or moss. Place the container in a refrigerator or cellar (temperature from 0 to +3 °C). After 4–5 months (in February-March), plant the seeds in seedling boxes. After frost, transplant the shoots into the ground. There is another way to grow gumi from seeds. This is something between autumn and spring sowing. Place the bones in a box with wet sand, sphagnum or sawdust. Immediately bury it in the ground to a depth of 30 cm. For the winter, insulate the place where the seeds were dug. In early spring, a month before sowing, take out the box and bring it into heat. Moisten the substrate with seeds regularly. Wait for the seeds to hatch and then plant them in seedling soil; keep the crops on a sunny windowsill or in a greenhouse. With the advent of steady heat, transplant the sprouts outside.
For stratification in autumn, the seeds are placed in a small container filled with a moistened mixture of peat chips and sand in a ratio of approximately 1: 1, deepening 4-5 cm into the substrate. The container is sent to the refrigerator for 3-4 months, in a special compartment for storing vegetables and fruits where the temperature is maintained at the level of 3-5ºС. The substrate needs to be moistened every 2-3 weeks by spraying from a spray bottle. By spring, the seeds should hatch. In the spring, after hatching, the seeds are taken out of the refrigerator and soaked for 5-7 days in a biostimulant solution, changing the liquid daily. After that, the seeds one by one should be planted in small individual pots with moist, fairly loose fertile soil, deepening by 2-3 cm. They need to be germinated like any other seedlings - under a film, put on a bright window. The first shoots should appear in 7-8 weeks, the latest ones can "linger" for another month and a half. Seedlings grow very slowly - they can be placed in a greenhouse not this summer, but only next season. And then the growth rate will be extremely low, you will receive the first flowering, depending on the conditions and care, only in the 5-8th year.
A two-stage stratification is recommended: I - at room. T within 1 month, II - at 1-3 ° for 2 months.
Seeding is superficial. The seeds are photosensitive. When placed in the dark at the germination stage, they do not sprout, including after being transferred to the light.
Seeds are harvested for several (2-3) months in the freezer. When the seeds are taken out of the refrigerator, left at room temperature, they receive a "signal" that it is time to exit the "hibernation" period. The time has come for favorable germination.
Blueberries grown from seeds grow very slowly over several years. Landing is carried out in stages:
Prepare (in March-April) a special, light in structure, and acidic (pH 4-5) soil, consisting of coniferous litter, river sand and peat in equal proportions.
Fill them with wide containers with drainage holes.
Dried seeds are planted in containers, making small holes (0.5-0.7 cm deep), into which 2-4 pieces are lowered. seeds.
Carry out gentle irrigation.
The planting is covered with a perforated film, and placed on window sills (with shading), or under a phytolamp.
The room should be warm (+22+25ºС).
Maintain moderate soil moisture.
Every day, seedlings can be additionally opened for ventilation.
In autumn (October-November), purchased seed can be planted in open ground. In early spring, seeds that have undergone stratification are planted.
Seeding is superficial. The seeds are photosensitive. When placed in the dark at the germination stage, they do not sprout, including after being transferred to the light.
Seeds are harvested for several (2-3) months in the freezer. When the seeds are taken out of the refrigerator, left at room temperature, they receive a "signal" that it is time to exit the "hibernation" period. The time has come for favorable germination.
Blueberries grown from seeds grow very slowly over several years. Landing is carried out in stages:
Prepare (in March-April) a special, light in structure, and acidic (pH 4-5) soil, consisting of coniferous litter, river sand and peat in equal proportions.
Fill them with wide containers with drainage holes.
Dried seeds are planted in containers, making small holes (0.5-0.7 cm deep), into which 2-4 pieces are lowered. seeds.
Carry out gentle irrigation.
The planting is covered with a perforated film, and placed on window sills (with shading), or under a phytolamp.
The room should be warm (+22+25ºС).
Maintain moderate soil moisture.
Every day, seedlings can be additionally opened for ventilation.
In autumn (October-November), purchased seed can be planted in open ground. In early spring, seeds that have undergone stratification are planted.
The best time to grow papaya at home from seeds is in early spring, when daylight hours increase. Thanks to this, the plant will receive enough light. If you plant a melon tree in late autumn or winter, you will have to provide the plant with additional lighting. Otherwise, the culture will get sick, which will affect its shoots and leaf plates. In the northern hemisphere, the only way to grow papaya is at home in a pot, where they create "tropical" conditions for it.
Seeds are placed in wet gauze in a plastic bag and kept at a temperature of about 30°C. If you have a growth stimulator on hand, you can soak the seeds in it for 2 days. When the seeds hatch, they are sown in the soil. You can sow seeds in light, moist soil in separate cups of 2-3 pieces, with lower heating to 27-30°C, they germinate in 1.5-2 months.
Sowing of seeds is carried out in a prepared substrate, which includes: peat; sand; turf; land from a garden or orchard. You can also use a purchased mixture intended for citrus fruits.
There are several basic rules: choose containers with a diameter of approximately 100 mm; fill them with prepared soil; germinated seeds are laid to a depth of 20 mm; cover the containers with foil or plastic containers. To prevent the plant from suffocating, airing is done every day. The coating is removed for about 20 minutes, after which the mini-greenhouse is mounted again. After 10 days, young sprouts appear.
Young seedlings are very tender, as they grow they are transferred to larger containers with citrus soil, being careful not to damage the root system. Landing is carried out together with an earthen clod.
In summer, papaya can be taken outdoors.
Seeds are placed in wet gauze in a plastic bag and kept at a temperature of about 30°C. If you have a growth stimulator on hand, you can soak the seeds in it for 2 days. When the seeds hatch, they are sown in the soil. You can sow seeds in light, moist soil in separate cups of 2-3 pieces, with lower heating to 27-30°C, they germinate in 1.5-2 months.
Sowing of seeds is carried out in a prepared substrate, which includes: peat; sand; turf; land from a garden or orchard. You can also use a purchased mixture intended for citrus fruits.
There are several basic rules: choose containers with a diameter of approximately 100 mm; fill them with prepared soil; germinated seeds are laid to a depth of 20 mm; cover the containers with foil or plastic containers. To prevent the plant from suffocating, airing is done every day. The coating is removed for about 20 minutes, after which the mini-greenhouse is mounted again. After 10 days, young sprouts appear.
Young seedlings are very tender, as they grow they are transferred to larger containers with citrus soil, being careful not to damage the root system. Landing is carried out together with an earthen clod.
In summer, papaya can be taken outdoors.
When propagated by seeds, the seed collected in July is stratified for about six months in a basement or a dark cold room at a temperature of 5-7 ºC. Sowing seeds in the ground is carried out in early October. The recommended soil temperature is around 10 ºC. Planting is mulched. Loosening is carried out in early spring, and by mid-April the first shoots appear. To accelerate the growth and improve the development of the shrub, it is regularly fed, watered, and weeded. When sowing seeds, the characteristics of the parent plant are split, so not all of them are preserved in the offspring. The bush begins to bear fruit 4.5 - 5 years after planting.
Planting seeds is best done in January-February: Prepare for planting a special soil for succulents. At the bottom of a large pot or container, equip a drainage layer. Disinfect the soil with any biofungicide. Deepen the seeds into the soil by 1 cm, pour lightly. Cover the container with glass or film, building a greenhouse. At room temperature, the seedlings should hatch in about a week.
In about a month, the first needles will grow on the succulent. Now you can dive it into a separate pot with moist soil. As the soil, use the same succulent or enriched with peat and organic fertilizers substrates. Reduce the temperature and regularly moisten the soil.
In about a month, the first needles will grow on the succulent. Now you can dive it into a separate pot with moist soil. As the soil, use the same succulent or enriched with peat and organic fertilizers substrates. Reduce the temperature and regularly moisten the soil.
Seeds do not require any pretreatment, but pre-soaking for 12 hours before sowing improves germination. Seed germination takes from 24 to 50 days. The plant is ready for transplantation in 3-4 months.
The tree begins to bear fruit 3 years after transplantation.
The tree begins to bear fruit 3 years after transplantation.
Soil: any permeable soil is suitable. 2 parts of turf, 1 part of leafy earth, 1 humus, 1 peat, 1 coarse-grained sand or perlite. You can use a peat-based substrate. Always use a pot with a hole.
Sowing: in early spring at a temperature of 16-22 ° C, the seeds of duchenne are slightly pressed into the soil. Cover the container with glass and put it away from the light. Seeds of Indian duchenia germinate within 1-6 weeks, but their germination time can be shortened if they are stratified. To do this, immediately after sowing the seeds in a box or in a pot, put them in the refrigerator for a week. And then place them in a warm, sunny place.
A month after the emergence of seedlings (when at least 2 leaves appear), the plants can be dived and transplanted.
Care: timely watering and removal of dried leaves.
Fertilizer: from May to September, 1 time in 2 weeks with a highly diluted liquid fertilizer.
Sowing: in early spring at a temperature of 16-22 ° C, the seeds of duchenne are slightly pressed into the soil. Cover the container with glass and put it away from the light. Seeds of Indian duchenia germinate within 1-6 weeks, but their germination time can be shortened if they are stratified. To do this, immediately after sowing the seeds in a box or in a pot, put them in the refrigerator for a week. And then place them in a warm, sunny place.
A month after the emergence of seedlings (when at least 2 leaves appear), the plants can be dived and transplanted.
Care: timely watering and removal of dried leaves.
Fertilizer: from May to September, 1 time in 2 weeks with a highly diluted liquid fertilizer.
Preparation: guava seeds should be soaked in wet discs or cotton cloth for 2-3 days before sowing, so that the seeds swell.
Soil: light and loose, a mixture of turf, humus and sand (1:1:1) is well suited.
Sowing: plant the seeds in a pot with soil and cover with a film or glass to create greenhouse conditions. 1-2 times a day, you need to open it for ventilation, so that mold does not appear. Seedlings will appear in 2-3 months.
Guava begins to bear fruit on the 3rd-4th year.
Care: watering, fertilizing.
Soil: light and loose, a mixture of turf, humus and sand (1:1:1) is well suited.
Sowing: plant the seeds in a pot with soil and cover with a film or glass to create greenhouse conditions. 1-2 times a day, you need to open it for ventilation, so that mold does not appear. Seedlings will appear in 2-3 months.
Guava begins to bear fruit on the 3rd-4th year.
Care: watering, fertilizing.
Fill a small pot with drainage holes with a single layer of expanded clay and potting soil. The seed should be planted in the middle of the pot to a depth of 2-3 cm, cover with transparent film. During germination, the temperature should be maintained within +25-+34C and the top layer of soil should be provided with constant but moderate moisture. After the sprouts appear, remove the film and place the pot in a bright place, but without direct sunlight. When 4-6 true leaves grow, transfer the lychees to a larger pot.
The seeds need to be stratified - pre-winter sowing in open ground in October. Over the winter they will undergo natural stratification, but privet seedlings will appear only after a year. If you postpone sowing seeds until spring, place them in a box with sand and peat and keep them at a temperature close to 0 ºC, or in the refrigerator.
Plant the seeds in a loose substrate, one seed for each glass to a depth of no more than 2 cm. The temperature in the room with the seedlings should not be higher than 20 degrees. Watering is required, but moderate. For faster growth, you can backlight it. After a year or two, the seedlings can be transplanted to a permanent location.
Plant the seeds in a loose substrate, one seed for each glass to a depth of no more than 2 cm. The temperature in the room with the seedlings should not be higher than 20 degrees. Watering is required, but moderate. For faster growth, you can backlight it. After a year or two, the seedlings can be transplanted to a permanent location.
Preparation: Cover the seeds with warm water and leave for 3 days, then place on the bottom shelf of the refrigerator for 48 hours.
Sowing: fill the bottom of the container with drainage, add a nutrient substrate and place the seed in the pot so that the light spot is located on the side to a depth of about 4 cm, moisten with settled water at room temperature. Cover the container with film to create greenhouse conditions and place in a warm and dry place, away from drafts.
Every day you need to remove the film for a while. If all the rules are followed, the first shoots will appear in 13-15 days.
Care: additional lighting (at least 12 hours of daylight), temperature range from +23°C to +27°C, watering with settled water at room temperature, regular feeding.
Sowing: fill the bottom of the container with drainage, add a nutrient substrate and place the seed in the pot so that the light spot is located on the side to a depth of about 4 cm, moisten with settled water at room temperature. Cover the container with film to create greenhouse conditions and place in a warm and dry place, away from drafts.
Every day you need to remove the film for a while. If all the rules are followed, the first shoots will appear in 13-15 days.
Care: additional lighting (at least 12 hours of daylight), temperature range from +23°C to +27°C, watering with settled water at room temperature, regular feeding.
Liana seeds
Anguria syriana. Anguria is cultivated as a seedling. The seeds are sown to a depth of 1 cm in individual cups at the end of April. The seedlings are planted outdoors in late May/early June. It likes sunny sites and fertile soils, but is otherwise undemanding, producing abundant yields even in short and cool summers.
The seeds are sown at the end of February. The seed needs to be prepared before sowing. It is placed on moistened gauze and placed in a warm place. But before soaking the seeds, the shell of each bean should be carefully pierced with a sharp needle, without touching the white spot on the rib, because this is where the germ zone (from which the sprout emerges) is located. First, fill small cups with a substrate consisting of sand, leaf turf and peat. In each cup, sow one seed into the soil to a depth of around 40 mm. The seeds are moistened gently with a sprayer, covered with clingfilm and placed in a warm place with diffused light. To ensure that the seedlings emerge as quickly as possible, remember to air and moisten them regularly with a sprayer and keep them warm (about 23 degrees). When the seedlings have grown and become stronger, they can be transplanted to the garden. Plant out in May once the weather has warmed and the threat of spring frost has passed. For the seedlings to take root as quickly and better as possible, they should be carefully transferred from their cups into the prepared hole, making sure to keep the clump of soil intact. The distance between the planting holes can vary from 0.2 to 0.4 metres. Place a support around the planting immediately, which should be at least 200 cm high. Choose a sunny location for planting, because this plant is light- and heat-loving. The place selected for planting should also be reliably protected from strong winds and draughts, because they can severely damage it and even cause the death of the shrubs. The soil should be loose, nutritious and neutral. Before planting the seedlings, do not forget to dig out the soil. If the soil is exhausted, apply decompost about 30 days before planting the seedlings.
Seeds require a three-stage stratification process: I at 18-20°C for 2 months, II at 3-5°C for 2 months, and III at 13-15°C for 1 month. Germination occurs during the last stage. Sowing to a depth of 0.5-1 cm.
Planting of actinidia can be carried out both in autumn (before the first frost) and in spring - the latter is preferable.
The position of the planting site should be selected carefully. Remember that it prefers fertile soil that is permeable to moisture and air, but does not like high groundwater levels. The actinidia plant thrives well next to buildings and fences on their southern side, but it is better to protect young trees from the open sun. As the tree ages, it will like direct sunlight.
In the first decade of December, the planting material is soaked for four days so that above the seeds there is about two centimetres of water, which is changed daily with fresh water. The actinidia seeds are then placed in a capron stocking and lowered into a box with damp sand.
The box should be kept in a room with an air temperature of 18-20 ºC. Every week, remove the stocking with the seeds from the sand and air it out for a few minutes, then wash the seeds under running water without removing them from the stocking, gently squeeze them out and dip the stocking into the damp sand again. It is important that the seeds do not dry out. In January, wrap the box with the sand and the planting material in the stocking in a cloth and bury it in deep snow for two months. If there is no snow, place the box in the refrigerator instead of one of the vegetable containers. After two months, take the seeds out of the refrigerator and place them in a place that maintains a temperature of 10-12 ºC, no higher, so that the seeds will not go into dormancy after being stratified in the cold, once they have been exposed to the relative heat. Continue to wash and aerate the stocking weekly as you did before stratification and once you have discovered that some of the seeds have sprouted, plant them all in containers with a mixture of river sand and sod soil and work them in to a depth of half a centimetre. The seedlings should be sprinkled regularly and protected from direct sunlight, and in mid-June, when they have developed 3-4 true leaves, they should be transplanted to the greenhouse. The seedlings will flower for the first time in three to five years, at which time the sex can be determined and then transplanted to a permanent location.
Planting of actinidia can be carried out both in autumn (before the first frost) and in spring - the latter is preferable.
The position of the planting site should be selected carefully. Remember that it prefers fertile soil that is permeable to moisture and air, but does not like high groundwater levels. The actinidia plant thrives well next to buildings and fences on their southern side, but it is better to protect young trees from the open sun. As the tree ages, it will like direct sunlight.
In the first decade of December, the planting material is soaked for four days so that above the seeds there is about two centimetres of water, which is changed daily with fresh water. The actinidia seeds are then placed in a capron stocking and lowered into a box with damp sand.
The box should be kept in a room with an air temperature of 18-20 ºC. Every week, remove the stocking with the seeds from the sand and air it out for a few minutes, then wash the seeds under running water without removing them from the stocking, gently squeeze them out and dip the stocking into the damp sand again. It is important that the seeds do not dry out. In January, wrap the box with the sand and the planting material in the stocking in a cloth and bury it in deep snow for two months. If there is no snow, place the box in the refrigerator instead of one of the vegetable containers. After two months, take the seeds out of the refrigerator and place them in a place that maintains a temperature of 10-12 ºC, no higher, so that the seeds will not go into dormancy after being stratified in the cold, once they have been exposed to the relative heat. Continue to wash and aerate the stocking weekly as you did before stratification and once you have discovered that some of the seeds have sprouted, plant them all in containers with a mixture of river sand and sod soil and work them in to a depth of half a centimetre. The seedlings should be sprinkled regularly and protected from direct sunlight, and in mid-June, when they have developed 3-4 true leaves, they should be transplanted to the greenhouse. The seedlings will flower for the first time in three to five years, at which time the sex can be determined and then transplanted to a permanent location.
Seeds can germinate for up to a year without additional treatment. Creating the right conditions for prolonged germination is difficult. Amateurs use accelerated germination methods. In all methods, the seeds must be scarified, breaking off the dense seed coat.
We suggest using one of three methods: 1) Soak the seeds for a day with the stimulant Zircon, Epin or similar. Seeds are sunk to 0.5 cm, germinated in the light at 28-350 C, with lower heating.
Keep the seeds in a 3% hydrogen peroxide solution until germination. 2) Soak the seeds in distilled water for 24 hours. Remove the floating seeds. Place the swollen seeds in the solution. The upper membrane should burst. Transfer the seeds to another tightly closed container with peroxide solution, put the jar in a warm, dark place until the seedlings appear. The jar can be opened when the seedlings appear. Remove them with a sterile instrument. For the remaining seeds, change the solution. The germinated seeds are sown and cared for in the usual way. 3) If you cover the box with the seeds sown in the usual way with the foil and create constant temperature difference up to 30 degrees during the day and up to 10 degrees at night, even the tightest germinating seeds will germinate within 1-2 months. Subsequently, the seedlings can be planted in individual cups 7 cm in diameter.
We suggest using one of three methods: 1) Soak the seeds for a day with the stimulant Zircon, Epin or similar. Seeds are sunk to 0.5 cm, germinated in the light at 28-350 C, with lower heating.
Keep the seeds in a 3% hydrogen peroxide solution until germination. 2) Soak the seeds in distilled water for 24 hours. Remove the floating seeds. Place the swollen seeds in the solution. The upper membrane should burst. Transfer the seeds to another tightly closed container with peroxide solution, put the jar in a warm, dark place until the seedlings appear. The jar can be opened when the seedlings appear. Remove them with a sterile instrument. For the remaining seeds, change the solution. The germinated seeds are sown and cared for in the usual way. 3) If you cover the box with the seeds sown in the usual way with the foil and create constant temperature difference up to 30 degrees during the day and up to 10 degrees at night, even the tightest germinating seeds will germinate within 1-2 months. Subsequently, the seedlings can be planted in individual cups 7 cm in diameter.
Seeds need to be stratified at 5° for 2-6 months.
The drevobubetsk grows well in a sunny area as well as in the semi-shade. So it will not be difficult to choose a location for woody knotweed. The soil should be fertile and sufficiently loose. For this purpose, a fertilizer of organic fertilizer should be applied. Decomposed manure, leaf humus and sand should be mixed in equal quantities and incorporated into the soil during digging.
The seedlings can be planted in the spring as well as in the autumn. For planting in the open ground, it is best to use seedlings that are more than two years old, they take root much better and have a high level of stress resistance. For planting, dig holes at a distance of 30 cm from each other, make sure to place a drainage layer at the bottom (river pebbles, expanded clay or crushed bricks) and cover with a small amount of soil. The seedling should then be placed in the hole and well covered with soil, so that the root system is well covered with soil. After planting, abundant watering is essential. After watering, thoroughly mulch the soil with peat, sawdust or dry leaves.
Only plant the vines in the vicinity of the structures that the arboretum is supposed to encircle.
The drevobubetsk grows well in a sunny area as well as in the semi-shade. So it will not be difficult to choose a location for woody knotweed. The soil should be fertile and sufficiently loose. For this purpose, a fertilizer of organic fertilizer should be applied. Decomposed manure, leaf humus and sand should be mixed in equal quantities and incorporated into the soil during digging.
The seedlings can be planted in the spring as well as in the autumn. For planting in the open ground, it is best to use seedlings that are more than two years old, they take root much better and have a high level of stress resistance. For planting, dig holes at a distance of 30 cm from each other, make sure to place a drainage layer at the bottom (river pebbles, expanded clay or crushed bricks) and cover with a small amount of soil. The seedling should then be placed in the hole and well covered with soil, so that the root system is well covered with soil. After planting, abundant watering is essential. After watering, thoroughly mulch the soil with peat, sawdust or dry leaves.
Only plant the vines in the vicinity of the structures that the arboretum is supposed to encircle.
The seeded tomordica can be planted directly in the open air, but as it likes warmth, it is better to wait until it has been transplanted at home.
Sowing is done in early to mid-spring in several stages:
1)Saw off the spout of the seed with a file or fine sandpaper, removing the layers of dense seed coat;
2) disinfect the seeds by immersing them briefly in a weak solution of manganese;
3) wrap them in a soft, damp cloth and leave in a warm place (at least + 23°C) until white roots appear.
A high percentage of germination can be achieved by planting two seeds at a time in a special peat pan with nutrient-rich soil to a depth of 1.5 cm and watering thoroughly. Afterwards, cover the containers with cling film to create greenhouse conditions and leave them there. If the correct temperature is maintained, the shoots should appear in a fortnight.
To grow momordica yourself, after the first sprouts appear, you should remove the foil and put the seedlings in a sunny place. The soil must be kept moist and should not be allowed to dry out, and the plants should be sprinkled daily. As soon as two leaves have emerged on each sprout, the seedlings should be picked out, leaving the stronger one in the pot. After that, you can start preparing the Momordica for transplanting to open soil. To do this, harden the plants as follows:
1. Take the pots outdoors daily, gradually increasing the residence time from 2 hours to a day, adding 1.5 hours each day.
2. Place the seedlings in the greenhouse and ventilate them in a similar manner, while protecting them from direct sunlight.
As soon as the maximum time outdoors has been reached for 24 hours, the seedlings can be transplanted into the open field.
Sowing is done in early to mid-spring in several stages:
1)Saw off the spout of the seed with a file or fine sandpaper, removing the layers of dense seed coat;
2) disinfect the seeds by immersing them briefly in a weak solution of manganese;
3) wrap them in a soft, damp cloth and leave in a warm place (at least + 23°C) until white roots appear.
A high percentage of germination can be achieved by planting two seeds at a time in a special peat pan with nutrient-rich soil to a depth of 1.5 cm and watering thoroughly. Afterwards, cover the containers with cling film to create greenhouse conditions and leave them there. If the correct temperature is maintained, the shoots should appear in a fortnight.
To grow momordica yourself, after the first sprouts appear, you should remove the foil and put the seedlings in a sunny place. The soil must be kept moist and should not be allowed to dry out, and the plants should be sprinkled daily. As soon as two leaves have emerged on each sprout, the seedlings should be picked out, leaving the stronger one in the pot. After that, you can start preparing the Momordica for transplanting to open soil. To do this, harden the plants as follows:
1. Take the pots outdoors daily, gradually increasing the residence time from 2 hours to a day, adding 1.5 hours each day.
2. Place the seedlings in the greenhouse and ventilate them in a similar manner, while protecting them from direct sunlight.
As soon as the maximum time outdoors has been reached for 24 hours, the seedlings can be transplanted into the open field.
Melotrium rusticum is planted in seed in the second half of April in specially prepared soil at an optimum air temperature of 25⁰C without burrowing heavily into the ground. If done correctly, it will germinate in 4-6 days and in 3 weeks it will be ready for transplanting to the vegetable garden.
Put 2 seeds in each container without burying them in the ground;
Sprinkle plenty of warm water;
Cover with polythene;
Cover with a plastic bag or cling film;
Put the plants in direct sunlight (temperature +25˚C) on the window.
This activity is recommended for the last few days of April so that the seedlings can be transferred to the vegetable garden by the end of May. If the mini cucumber melothria is planted correctly, the first shoots will appear on day 3-6. As the soil dries, moisten it with a sprayer. After 7 days of this painstaking care, the mini greenhouse is removed.
As soon as the shoots have grown to 3-5 cm, they will be hardened. The room is ventilated for 15-20 minutes every day so that they can get used to the fresh air.
This principle of growing melodrama from seed can also be used at home. Since the culture does not require large amounts of soil, it is transplanted to a medium-sized pot or shallow box, container. A few supports should also be built for the plant, otherwise it will braid everything that lies in its path that is not suitable for it.
Put 2 seeds in each container without burying them in the ground;
Sprinkle plenty of warm water;
Cover with polythene;
Cover with a plastic bag or cling film;
Put the plants in direct sunlight (temperature +25˚C) on the window.
This activity is recommended for the last few days of April so that the seedlings can be transferred to the vegetable garden by the end of May. If the mini cucumber melothria is planted correctly, the first shoots will appear on day 3-6. As the soil dries, moisten it with a sprayer. After 7 days of this painstaking care, the mini greenhouse is removed.
As soon as the shoots have grown to 3-5 cm, they will be hardened. The room is ventilated for 15-20 minutes every day so that they can get used to the fresh air.
This principle of growing melodrama from seed can also be used at home. Since the culture does not require large amounts of soil, it is transplanted to a medium-sized pot or shallow box, container. A few supports should also be built for the plant, otherwise it will braid everything that lies in its path that is not suitable for it.
Propagation by seed will take much longer than other methods. Young Lomonosas can only be transplanted to a permanent location 2-3 months after the first shoots have emerged.
Seed propagation of clematis is possible by sowing seeds in autumn or spring. Spring sowing is done with stratified seeds. For stratification, they are mixed with damp sand and kept for 2.5-3 months at 0-5 °C. If these seeds are sown in April or early May, shoots appear in 1.5-2 months. When sown in autumn, the seeds are not stratified.
Lomonosas with smaller seeds are usually propagated by seed in the greenhouse. The seeds are sown in boxes with a 2:1 or 1:1 mixture of soil and sand in the spring (March-April). When 3-4 pairs of leaflets appear, the seedlings are pipped into larger boxes or directly into ridges at a distance of 3-5 cm in a row. Shading, periodic loosening of the rows, mulching, timely watering, and removal of weeds are essential.
Seed propagation of clematis is possible by sowing seeds in autumn or spring. Spring sowing is done with stratified seeds. For stratification, they are mixed with damp sand and kept for 2.5-3 months at 0-5 °C. If these seeds are sown in April or early May, shoots appear in 1.5-2 months. When sown in autumn, the seeds are not stratified.
Lomonosas with smaller seeds are usually propagated by seed in the greenhouse. The seeds are sown in boxes with a 2:1 or 1:1 mixture of soil and sand in the spring (March-April). When 3-4 pairs of leaflets appear, the seedlings are pipped into larger boxes or directly into ridges at a distance of 3-5 cm in a row. Shading, periodic loosening of the rows, mulching, timely watering, and removal of weeds are essential.
Stratification in sand or peat at 5° for 2 months improves germination. Sow to a depth of 0.5-1 cm.
Place the seeds in a kapron bag, which should be placed in a cellophane bag and placed in the refrigerator; the seeds should be taken out periodically for washing. After 1-2 months, the seeds will begin to crack gradually, indicating that they are fully mature and ready to be planted in the ground. Place the seeds in a damp cloth and place them on a radiator that is not too hot, waiting for them to sprout and for the white roots to appear. Sow the seeds into the soil to a depth of 1.5 cm. It is best to use small pots for this purpose.
Place the seeds in a kapron bag, which should be placed in a cellophane bag and placed in the refrigerator; the seeds should be taken out periodically for washing. After 1-2 months, the seeds will begin to crack gradually, indicating that they are fully mature and ready to be planted in the ground. Place the seeds in a damp cloth and place them on a radiator that is not too hot, waiting for them to sprout and for the white roots to appear. Sow the seeds into the soil to a depth of 1.5 cm. It is best to use small pots for this purpose.
The sequence is the same as for other grape varieties, except that the seeds must be stripped of their shells beforehand. If you cannot do this immediately, you can soak the seeds in water for a while.
Before planting, the material is subjected to stratification, i.e. a 2-month soaking period in a cool place. They can be stored for up to 4 years and will still germinate well, even if stored for a long time.
Grapevines can also be grown from seed - this method is even better, since young plants adapt better to unfavourable conditions. But the seeds need to be stratified before sowing. They are mixed with damp sand and stored in the refrigerator for 2 months. After stratification, the seeds are sown in pots to a depth of 1 cm. In late May or early June, they can be planted in the garden. The distance between the plants should be 1.5 m.
Grapevines can also be grown from seed - this method is even better, since young plants adapt better to unfavourable conditions. But the seeds need to be stratified before sowing. They are mixed with damp sand and stored in the refrigerator for 2 months. After stratification, the seeds are sown in pots to a depth of 1 cm. In late May or early June, they can be planted in the garden. The distance between the plants should be 1.5 m.
It is advisable to treat purchased seeds with a stimulant such as Epin before sowing. The seeds should be sown in a light, nutritious soil. Place the germination container in a warm place, preferably under a heater. After germination, place the plants in the brightest place or under a lamp. The grown plants are planted in individual pots.
The time for sowing the seeds is the end of winter or March. To germinate the seeds as quickly as possible, resort to their scarification - before planting the passiflora seeds, use a method of preliminary mashing their outer hard shell with fine sandpaper. They are then placed in a fairly aggressive environment, orange or lemon freshly squeezed juice being excellent. In comfortable conditions, the seedlings can emerge after 2 weeks, but very often they will take 1 or even 2 months to adapt. Further care involves maintaining a moderately humid environment and a constant temperature of around +25°C. As soon as the seedlings appear mature, they should immediately be transplanted into their own containers.
The time for sowing the seeds is the end of winter or March. To germinate the seeds as quickly as possible, resort to their scarification - before planting the passiflora seeds, use a method of preliminary mashing their outer hard shell with fine sandpaper. They are then placed in a fairly aggressive environment, orange or lemon freshly squeezed juice being excellent. In comfortable conditions, the seedlings can emerge after 2 weeks, but very often they will take 1 or even 2 months to adapt. Further care involves maintaining a moderately humid environment and a constant temperature of around +25°C. As soon as the seedlings appear mature, they should immediately be transplanted into their own containers.
Three-stage stratification is recommended: I at 18-20° for 1 month, II at 3-5° for 1 month and III at 8-10° for 1 month. Under these conditions, seed germination reaches 80-90 %.
To make the lemongrass seeds sprout, they need to be prepared and subjected to a stratification process.
The best results are obtained by storing berries picked in autumn in one piece without peeling seeds from the pulp. In early January, the Chinese lemongrass seeds are cleaned from the pulp and the rest of the pulp is thoroughly washed off with water. The rinsed seeds are immersed completely in cold water, which should be changed several times a day. The soaking process continues for four days. During this time, the sand should be prepared and first washed and then well heated. The seeds are buried in it by placing them in a kapron cloth. The box with the sand and the seeds is kept warm for thirty days at 20 degrees. After that, it is taken out into the garden and buried in a thick layer of snow. The seeds should also spend thirty days in the snow. After the period in the cold, the box with the lemongrass seeds should be kept for 10 - 14 days in a cool place, at a temperature no higher than 10 degrees. As a result of such preparation, the hard shell of the seeds begins to crack, which facilitates germination. Special boxes or containers are prepared for sowing.
To fill them, one part sand is mixed with one part humus. The seeds are placed on the surface, then covered with a layer of soil half a centimetre thick. Moisten everything well, and keep it covered with a sheet of paper in order to maintain the moisture regime. If watered daily, the first shoots should appear in 10 to 12 days. During the germination period, the seeds and sprouts are susceptible to fungal diseases; to prevent infection, one to two sprays of pink manganese solution should be applied. The first germinating leaves of lemongrass are similar to cucumber sprouts, when the fourth to fifth true leaves appear, seedlings are piked either in separate containers or in a general box at a distance of not less than five cm from each other. The seedlings will be planted in early June. It is important to remember that during the first three to four years, the lemongrass does not tolerate direct sunlight and should preferably be sheltered from it. Also, as it grows, it will need a vertical support, otherwise the seedling will start to bush and give numerous root shoots and will not flower. Seeded lemongrass blooms quite late, around the seventh year, but this method has an advantage over the vegetative propagation method as in most cases seeded plants have both male and female flowers, allowing for a harvest even with a single liana.
To make the lemongrass seeds sprout, they need to be prepared and subjected to a stratification process.
The best results are obtained by storing berries picked in autumn in one piece without peeling seeds from the pulp. In early January, the Chinese lemongrass seeds are cleaned from the pulp and the rest of the pulp is thoroughly washed off with water. The rinsed seeds are immersed completely in cold water, which should be changed several times a day. The soaking process continues for four days. During this time, the sand should be prepared and first washed and then well heated. The seeds are buried in it by placing them in a kapron cloth. The box with the sand and the seeds is kept warm for thirty days at 20 degrees. After that, it is taken out into the garden and buried in a thick layer of snow. The seeds should also spend thirty days in the snow. After the period in the cold, the box with the lemongrass seeds should be kept for 10 - 14 days in a cool place, at a temperature no higher than 10 degrees. As a result of such preparation, the hard shell of the seeds begins to crack, which facilitates germination. Special boxes or containers are prepared for sowing.
To fill them, one part sand is mixed with one part humus. The seeds are placed on the surface, then covered with a layer of soil half a centimetre thick. Moisten everything well, and keep it covered with a sheet of paper in order to maintain the moisture regime. If watered daily, the first shoots should appear in 10 to 12 days. During the germination period, the seeds and sprouts are susceptible to fungal diseases; to prevent infection, one to two sprays of pink manganese solution should be applied. The first germinating leaves of lemongrass are similar to cucumber sprouts, when the fourth to fifth true leaves appear, seedlings are piked either in separate containers or in a general box at a distance of not less than five cm from each other. The seedlings will be planted in early June. It is important to remember that during the first three to four years, the lemongrass does not tolerate direct sunlight and should preferably be sheltered from it. Also, as it grows, it will need a vertical support, otherwise the seedling will start to bush and give numerous root shoots and will not flower. Seeded lemongrass blooms quite late, around the seventh year, but this method has an advantage over the vegetative propagation method as in most cases seeded plants have both male and female flowers, allowing for a harvest even with a single liana.
The seeds are sown at the end of March. As the seeds are quite large, they are sown immediately in pots and grown without picking. Like most gourds, the kiwano does not like to be replanted. So fill the pot with soil (normal store-bought soil or your own, previously harvested at the cottage), place the seeds one by one into the pot, cover with soil, lightly compact and water. Cover the pots with the seeds with a lid, cling film or glass and keep them in a warm place. Open the cover, air it out and water it daily until the seedlings emerge. When the kiwano seedlings emerge, remove the cover and place the pots closer to light in a warm place. Water, feed and love. Kiwanis seedlings grow and develop very quickly. In 3-4 weeks after sowing, it will need a support. In the conditions of Moscow suburbs, kiwano seedlings are planted in the greenhouse, as usual cucumbers. The crop can be harvested from the end of July in August. They are usually eaten fresh and made into unusual salads. It is also possible to grow quinoa as a houseplant.
Immediately before sowing, soak the seeds in a manganese solution for 15-20 minutes. This procedure protects the plant from the occurrence of infectious diseases that often affect adult shrubs. While the planting material is being disinfected, the containers are prepared. Disposable cups filled with fertile soil will be ideal. A mixture of peat and humus should preferably be used as a substrate.
The top ball of soil is slightly loosened and a hole is made. Its maximum depth corresponds to 2 cm. A little water is poured at the bottom. When it has been absorbed by the soil, place the seeds and gently bury them. The cups are then placed in one large container or box. Use plastic film to create a greenhouse effect. Take the seeds to a warm and well-lit room. Sprouts appear after about 5-6 days.
When the seeds have germinated successfully, remove the foil. Keep the room at an optimum temperature of +20°C and avoid draughts. For the cucumber plants to develop successfully, there must be sufficient sunlight. Water the seedlings as the top layer of soil dries out. After a month, the bushes are transplanted to a permanent location.
The top ball of soil is slightly loosened and a hole is made. Its maximum depth corresponds to 2 cm. A little water is poured at the bottom. When it has been absorbed by the soil, place the seeds and gently bury them. The cups are then placed in one large container or box. Use plastic film to create a greenhouse effect. Take the seeds to a warm and well-lit room. Sprouts appear after about 5-6 days.
When the seeds have germinated successfully, remove the foil. Keep the room at an optimum temperature of +20°C and avoid draughts. For the cucumber plants to develop successfully, there must be sufficient sunlight. Water the seedlings as the top layer of soil dries out. After a month, the bushes are transplanted to a permanent location.
Seeds can be sown both in the fall and in the spring directly to a permanent place. You can also grow Echinocystis through seedlings if you need to quickly get an adult plant.
Before sowing in the spring, to speed up germination, the following actions are carried out with the seeds:
each seed is treated with sandpaper so that it germinates faster (or the seeds are soaked for 2-3 hours, like other pumpkin seeds); Now the seeds are placed in a damp cloth and kept there for about a day. Hatched seeds can be placed either in sawdust or in any soil. True, experienced flower growers plant in peat tablets, which provide the seedlings with nutrients. The container with seedlings should be placed in a warm, bright place, but not in direct sunlight.
Planting in open ground is carried out when true leaves appear and warm weather sets in (Echinocystis can withstand low temperatures well). Seedlings are planted at a distance of 35 cm.
Autumn sowing is carried out with dry seeds at an outside temperature of at least +5 degrees. First, the seeds are also treated with sandpaper (or without treatment) and placed in furrows to a depth of 3-5 cm and covered with fertile soil. You can also mulch the sowing area with straw, sawdust or peat. In the spring, the seeds will germinate successfully.
Before sowing in the spring, to speed up germination, the following actions are carried out with the seeds:
each seed is treated with sandpaper so that it germinates faster (or the seeds are soaked for 2-3 hours, like other pumpkin seeds); Now the seeds are placed in a damp cloth and kept there for about a day. Hatched seeds can be placed either in sawdust or in any soil. True, experienced flower growers plant in peat tablets, which provide the seedlings with nutrients. The container with seedlings should be placed in a warm, bright place, but not in direct sunlight.
Planting in open ground is carried out when true leaves appear and warm weather sets in (Echinocystis can withstand low temperatures well). Seedlings are planted at a distance of 35 cm.
Autumn sowing is carried out with dry seeds at an outside temperature of at least +5 degrees. First, the seeds are also treated with sandpaper (or without treatment) and placed in furrows to a depth of 3-5 cm and covered with fertile soil. You can also mulch the sowing area with straw, sawdust or peat. In the spring, the seeds will germinate successfully.
Before sowing, soak the seeds for 2-3 hours in water at room temperature, and then wrap them in a damp cloth until sprouts appear. The napkin should not dry out! Place in a warm place for germination. When sprouts appear, plant the seeds in prepared pots. Temperature: during germination - 20-25 C, after emergence -18-20 C.
The substrate for seedlings is nutritious and at the same time light, loose, well-permeable to air and water.
As soon as the threat of frost has passed and the temperature is established within +18-+20°C, the grown seedlings are hardened off and planted in open ground with a distance of about 50-60 cm between plants. It is important to place the garden bed in the warmest place or against a wall that is well heated during the day, which will give off heat to the plants at night.
The substrate for seedlings is nutritious and at the same time light, loose, well-permeable to air and water.
As soon as the threat of frost has passed and the temperature is established within +18-+20°C, the grown seedlings are hardened off and planted in open ground with a distance of about 50-60 cm between plants. It is important to place the garden bed in the warmest place or against a wall that is well heated during the day, which will give off heat to the plants at night.
Seeds of aquatic plants
Store the material in a cool place (you can use a refrigerator). For a successful storage period, wrap the seeds in a cloth (cotton cloth) and moisten it.
In mid-spring (early April), the seeds can be planted. Prepare a container with sand and clay, deepen the seeds, and pour a small layer of water (only tap water can be used, running water will not do). The appearance of a few leaves indicates that it is time to transfer the mullet to the reservoir. Mushrooms should be planted in such a pond, where the soil is rich in humus and peat, rather clayey. At home, mussels are planted in artificial ponds. In standing water, the plant grows very quickly, forming green thickets.
Caring for such an interesting flower is simple and requires little effort. For a long time, the flowers are a joy to the eye, simple rules should be followed:
Lighting. The plant is very fond of bright terrain, so the mounds will be comfortable in a body of water that is well heated by direct sunlight. Flowing water that is in the shade will not allow the plants to develop well. We recommend planting the mussels in warm, bright bodies of water.
Temperature regime. The water temperature depends on the stage the plant is at. During propagation by rhizome, the optimum temperature for the mound - 8-12 degrees. Leaves will appear after transplanting into aquarium soil. Fast growth and development of the plant requires a water temperature of 18-24 degrees. Cucurbits are frost-resistant, but as soon as the water starts to freeze, it should be drained and the flowers should be covered with fallen leaves.
Watering. Cucurbita grows in a reservoir, accordingly, it does not need to be watered.
Humidity. The seeds of the plant, located in the air sac, are floating. In this case, the water spreads them around the pond. Birds that like to eat flower seeds will spread them over long distances.
In mid-spring (early April), the seeds can be planted. Prepare a container with sand and clay, deepen the seeds, and pour a small layer of water (only tap water can be used, running water will not do). The appearance of a few leaves indicates that it is time to transfer the mullet to the reservoir. Mushrooms should be planted in such a pond, where the soil is rich in humus and peat, rather clayey. At home, mussels are planted in artificial ponds. In standing water, the plant grows very quickly, forming green thickets.
Caring for such an interesting flower is simple and requires little effort. For a long time, the flowers are a joy to the eye, simple rules should be followed:
Lighting. The plant is very fond of bright terrain, so the mounds will be comfortable in a body of water that is well heated by direct sunlight. Flowing water that is in the shade will not allow the plants to develop well. We recommend planting the mussels in warm, bright bodies of water.
Temperature regime. The water temperature depends on the stage the plant is at. During propagation by rhizome, the optimum temperature for the mound - 8-12 degrees. Leaves will appear after transplanting into aquarium soil. Fast growth and development of the plant requires a water temperature of 18-24 degrees. Cucurbits are frost-resistant, but as soon as the water starts to freeze, it should be drained and the flowers should be covered with fallen leaves.
Watering. Cucurbita grows in a reservoir, accordingly, it does not need to be watered.
Humidity. The seeds of the plant, located in the air sac, are floating. In this case, the water spreads them around the pond. Birds that like to eat flower seeds will spread them over long distances.
Seeds are planted in the spring, but it is possible to plant them in October in a container that must be buried in the coastal zone of the reservoir and immersed 3-5 cm in water. Shoots will appear next spring.
You can also simply scatter the collected seeds on the shore in the coastal zone in the desired area, then next season the susak will manifest itself.
The recommended planting depth is 10-20 cm, but it can grow at a depth of up to 40-50 cm. The roots must be constantly in water, however, short-term drying out can be tolerated without problems.
The soil should be swampy, with some silt content, which is common in damp places; silt will form on its own over time. To plant on a terrace or steps of a reservoir, first pour a 5-7 cm layer of soil, place the rhizome on it and then cover it with prepared soil (clay, peat, sand in a ratio of 3:1:1). Then I recommend pouring coarse gravel, pebbles, or the material with which the edge of the reservoir is finished.
You can also simply scatter the collected seeds on the shore in the coastal zone in the desired area, then next season the susak will manifest itself.
The recommended planting depth is 10-20 cm, but it can grow at a depth of up to 40-50 cm. The roots must be constantly in water, however, short-term drying out can be tolerated without problems.
The soil should be swampy, with some silt content, which is common in damp places; silt will form on its own over time. To plant on a terrace or steps of a reservoir, first pour a 5-7 cm layer of soil, place the rhizome on it and then cover it with prepared soil (clay, peat, sand in a ratio of 3:1:1). Then I recommend pouring coarse gravel, pebbles, or the material with which the edge of the reservoir is finished.
The seeds are thrown into the water in spring. But it is best to sow in small pots filled with silt and place them 10-15 cm deep, in the area where the water warms up best. Seeds germinate at a water temperature of about 25-30°C. This temperature is the most favourable for their development. Once the seedlings have grown into floating leaves, it is time to move them to a deeper depth of about one metre. Because water chestnuts have no roots, they can be safely moved from place to place by simply tying them to an "anchor" pebble.
The nuts are dropped into the ground or (if there is no ground) planted in containers and then lowered to the bottom. Propagation of the plant takes place from seed. The roots and underwater part emerge first, followed by the above-water leaves. Chilim tolerate transplanting without any problems and it can always be moved to a deeper water body.
The nuts are dropped into the ground or (if there is no ground) planted in containers and then lowered to the bottom. Propagation of the plant takes place from seed. The roots and underwater part emerge first, followed by the above-water leaves. Chilim tolerate transplanting without any problems and it can always be moved to a deeper water body.
The lotus seed should be broken, cut off, and the shell on the blunt end of the seed should be rubbed off. For example, put a sheet of sandpaper on the table and rub the blunt end of the seed against it until the light core is visible. You can file it off or break it off with wire cutters or a knife. Put the seeds into a transparent container for germination (a jar, a food container), pour 3-5 cm of settled water (preferably melted, frosted, rainwater, spring water), put in a sunny place with a room temperature of about +25 ° C. Change the water every morning and evening with fresh water. Soon the seeds will sink to the bottom, and in a week the sprouts will appear, they are very fragile, so when you change the water it is better to take the seeds out one by one. After two to three weeks the germinated lotus is formed and will need to be transplanted. The transplant is either into a summer pond at the cottage or into an ordinary pot for houseplants. The pot is immediately filled with earth or peat and then poured with water. Remember that the water must cover the planting soil by at least 10 cm. At the same time, make sure that the leaves of the plant remain on the surface. The seeds go seven centimetres into the water (and into the ground) with their rhizomes, but the leaves should always be on the surface, in fact, they should float on the water. As the plant grows, water should be added, making sure that it floats on the surface of the water. If the sprouts and leaves are drowned, the plant will die instantly.
Sowing of seeds is carried out in the fall, directly into the ground. Usually the seeds are planted in containers with soil, then they are immersed under water.
In the first year of life, the young plants do not bloom, die in the fall, and the tubers overwinter. In the spring, when the water warms up, the apical bud of the tuber begins to grow and a stolon-like growth is formed.
In the first year of life, the young plants do not bloom, die in the fall, and the tubers overwinter. In the spring, when the water warms up, the apical bud of the tuber begins to grow and a stolon-like growth is formed.
Earth nut seeds
Rinse the peanuts thoroughly and put them in a large jar. Then soak the peanuts in cool water and leave them for 12 hours away from direct sunlight at 21ºC. After soaking, the seeds should be rinsed and dried. Repeat the soaking procedure after 12 hours. The seeds will start to germinate after three washing and drying cycles. Only when the tops of the seeds are bulging can the peanuts be planted in the ground.
The growing area should be well lit, free of shade and well ventilated. The soil should be light, black or neutral and have a high potassium, magnesium and humus content. Peanuts cannot tolerate soil salinity.
Peanuts are planted in warm soil. Seeds germinate at 12-14 degrees, the ideal temperature being 25-30 degrees.
Be sure to wait for the weather to get warmer, since peanuts cannot tolerate frosts. Peanuts are usually planted in mid-May, after the gourds have been sown.
The best predecessors for peanuts on the plot are cabbage, cucumbers, potatoes.
In spring, prepare the soil before planting - apply 50 g of nitrophoska per 1 m2. If you prepare the soil in autumn, you can apply humus under tillage at a depth of 25-30 cm at the rate of 1-3 kg per m2.
The growing area should be well lit, free of shade and well ventilated. The soil should be light, black or neutral and have a high potassium, magnesium and humus content. Peanuts cannot tolerate soil salinity.
Peanuts are planted in warm soil. Seeds germinate at 12-14 degrees, the ideal temperature being 25-30 degrees.
Be sure to wait for the weather to get warmer, since peanuts cannot tolerate frosts. Peanuts are usually planted in mid-May, after the gourds have been sown.
The best predecessors for peanuts on the plot are cabbage, cucumbers, potatoes.
In spring, prepare the soil before planting - apply 50 g of nitrophoska per 1 m2. If you prepare the soil in autumn, you can apply humus under tillage at a depth of 25-30 cm at the rate of 1-3 kg per m2.
Soak the tubers in water for two or three days. The most important thing here is to change the water once a day! If you forget, you can say goodbye to half of the tubers!
The soaked tubers can be sown in cups with soil, or they can be wrapped in toilet paper or paper towels, put into a cellophane bag and put away in a warm (not hot!) place. You can also germinate in damp sawdust.
If you are going to sow in cups (2-3 cm deep), water lightly after sowing, cover with a transparent bag or lid and wait for sprouts.
If you decide to wrap for sprouting, check and moisten the paper from time to time. As soon as the roots appear - into the cups. The soil for chufa sprouts should ideally be soil + sand (or perlite) + some ash. As sprouts appear in cups - bags, covers remove. Do not pour a lot! The soil should be slightly damp. Chufa can take up to two weeks to germinate.
The soaked tubers can be sown in cups with soil, or they can be wrapped in toilet paper or paper towels, put into a cellophane bag and put away in a warm (not hot!) place. You can also germinate in damp sawdust.
If you are going to sow in cups (2-3 cm deep), water lightly after sowing, cover with a transparent bag or lid and wait for sprouts.
If you decide to wrap for sprouting, check and moisten the paper from time to time. As soon as the roots appear - into the cups. The soil for chufa sprouts should ideally be soil + sand (or perlite) + some ash. As sprouts appear in cups - bags, covers remove. Do not pour a lot! The soil should be slightly damp. Chufa can take up to two weeks to germinate.
Walnut seeds
Sow the seeds in the spring or in the winter. If you choose to sow almonds in the spring, the seeds need to be stratified by placing them in a vegetable crate in the refrigerator for 3-4 months. The almond seeds are sown in 8-10 cm deep seed furrows at a distance of 10 cm and with a distance of 45-60 cm between the furrows. The seeds will germinate the following year, in April, and you will need to water, weed and loosen the soil. In July, when the seedlings have reached a height of 50-60 cm, the side branches on the trunks below 10-12 cm from the surface level should be cut out with a pruning shear. By this time, the thickness of the stem of the seedling at the root neck is approaching 1 cm, which means that the tree can already be used as a rootstock, but it must first be transplanted to a permanent location and allowed to take root.
Seeds need to be stratified at 1-5° for 3-4 months.
A good time to sow beech seeds is early spring. Prepare small pots for sowing beech seeds or find a suitable spot in the garden. Sprinkle the beech seeds into the loose soil. Cover them with a layer of soil as thick as the nuts themselves.
The seeds will germinate within a few weeks. Young beech plants can take several weeks to germinate. Only the seedpods will be visible at first. Beech seedlings will need some more time to become seedlings. They must be protected from frost and drying out before final planting.
A good time to sow beech seeds is early spring. Prepare small pots for sowing beech seeds or find a suitable spot in the garden. Sprinkle the beech seeds into the loose soil. Cover them with a layer of soil as thick as the nuts themselves.
The seeds will germinate within a few weeks. Young beech plants can take several weeks to germinate. Only the seedpods will be visible at first. Beech seedlings will need some more time to become seedlings. They must be protected from frost and drying out before final planting.
Seeds need to be stratified at 3-5°. After Seeds need to be stratified at 3-5°. After 3-6 months only a few sprouts start to appear, and mass sprouts in the second year.
There are several ways to grow hazelnuts. The method with nuts is the easiest. It is carried out in spring or autumn. Autumn planting of hazelnut should be done about a month before frosts and snowfall. The seeds are planted at the rate of 50 nuts per 1 sq. m., deepened into the soil by 7-8 cm.
If for any reason the hazelnut seeds could not be planted in the open ground in autumn, the nuts should undergo stratification before spring planting to improve germination.
To grow hazelnuts, seeds can be planted both in seedlings and in the open ground. If there are few or no sprouts after stratification, you should wait until the following spring. The nuts may not have undergone the necessary stratification and will do so during the winter.
There are several ways to grow hazelnuts. The method with nuts is the easiest. It is carried out in spring or autumn. Autumn planting of hazelnut should be done about a month before frosts and snowfall. The seeds are planted at the rate of 50 nuts per 1 sq. m., deepened into the soil by 7-8 cm.
If for any reason the hazelnut seeds could not be planted in the open ground in autumn, the nuts should undergo stratification before spring planting to improve germination.
To grow hazelnuts, seeds can be planted both in seedlings and in the open ground. If there are few or no sprouts after stratification, you should wait until the following spring. The nuts may not have undergone the necessary stratification and will do so during the winter.
Stratify at 0-5°C for 3-4 months.
Place a layer of damp (not wet!) sand in the bottom of any container. Put a layer of nuts on top of it. Try to put so that the nuts do not touch each other. Cover them with another layer of sand. Put the container in a cool place. The optimal temperature for the stratification of walnuts is 0-5°C.
Check the condition of the sand every fortnight for 3 to 3.5 months. If it starts to dry out, spray it with a sprayer and put it back in a cool place.
When do I start this stratification? The prepared nuts can be planted outdoors in late April/early May, when temperatures are positive. Consequently, the nuts should be sent out for stratification, which will last about 100 days, in the second half of January.
Place a layer of damp (not wet!) sand in the bottom of any container. Put a layer of nuts on top of it. Try to put so that the nuts do not touch each other. Cover them with another layer of sand. Put the container in a cool place. The optimal temperature for the stratification of walnuts is 0-5°C.
Check the condition of the sand every fortnight for 3 to 3.5 months. If it starts to dry out, spray it with a sprayer and put it back in a cool place.
When do I start this stratification? The prepared nuts can be planted outdoors in late April/early May, when temperatures are positive. Consequently, the nuts should be sent out for stratification, which will last about 100 days, in the second half of January.
Young pistachio trees like warmth and moisture. In special greenhouse nurseries, they are germinated from seed at about 30 degrees. Low temperatures can easily kill the entire greenhouse plantation. When germinating seeds at home, you should also provide them with high humidity and a suitable temperature. The procedure for sowing and growing a pistachio tree is as follows: First, the seeds should be soaked in water for a day. The seeds should not be left in the water for more than 24 hours as they can start to rot. When the pistachio has softened sufficiently in the water, open it up with your hands and gently peel off the thin skin. The best way to prepare pistachio seeds for sowing is rapid stratification in a warm room (20-22°C), with the nuts first soaked in warm water (35-40°C). Next, you need to remove the shell and the film, you can not entirely, but on one side you will see a ready-made sleeping root - here it is necessary to release it from the film.
Next, the prepared nuts are placed in a glass jar, covered with a lid and left in a warm place for 2-3 days, with every day they should be gently washed with water. On the 3rd day, the seeds should begin to sprout roots. When the roots have reached about 1 cm, the pistachios can be planted in transparent cups. You can use a standard 500 ml disposable cup. Smaller cups should not be used as the roots of this plant grow quite quickly. When the tree has grown to a height of 7-10 cm and its roots can be seen at the bottom of the cup, the plant should be quickly transferred to a special extended polythene container.
Next, the prepared nuts are placed in a glass jar, covered with a lid and left in a warm place for 2-3 days, with every day they should be gently washed with water. On the 3rd day, the seeds should begin to sprout roots. When the roots have reached about 1 cm, the pistachios can be planted in transparent cups. You can use a standard 500 ml disposable cup. Smaller cups should not be used as the roots of this plant grow quite quickly. When the tree has grown to a height of 7-10 cm and its roots can be seen at the bottom of the cup, the plant should be quickly transferred to a special extended polythene container.
Soak the seed in warm water for a day. Then plant it not too deeply into the soil, about two centimetres, and water it. Then be sure to cover it with plastic wrap. Leave the seedling to germinate underneath a 'mini greenhouse'. It will be about 1.-2 months old. The care of the plant consists of proper watering, lighting, temperature and humidity. Watering should be regular, but without overwatering or drying out the soil. Regular fertilisation with mineral organic fertiliser is essential. The temperature should be between 25 and 28 degrees under cover. Then, when the plant has "sprouted", the foil can be removed and proper care continues. Water more frequently in summer than in winter, do not allow the air to become too dry and provide plenty of sunlight. It must be borne in mind that the adult soap tree is quite tall. Therefore, after germinating it, the plant can then be planted in natural soil if desired and if you have your own plot of land. You should do this when spring is just around the corner and the weather is fairly warm, at least 22 degrees Celsius.
The sapindus does not start to fructify until five to seven years later. Until then, you will only enjoy it as a beautiful ornamental plant.
The sapindus does not start to fructify until five to seven years later. Until then, you will only enjoy it as a beautiful ornamental plant.
Stratify at 0-5°C for 3-4 months.
The seeds should be planted in the autumn and 4 to 6 nuts should be planted in a single hole. To increase the probability of sprouting, pre-soak the nuts in warm water for 24 hours.An important condition for successful sprouting is soil cleared of rhizomes and weeds, which should be nutritious, loose and moist. The embedment depth for autumn sowing is 10-12 cm, 6-8 cm for spring sowing (after stratification). The seeds should be placed horizontally but not deeply into the hole, and protection from rodents should be provided if the seedlings are grown in the open ground. The first shoots should not be expected until the following summer. The seeds will first produce white roots and then form a stem on which the first pair of leaves will soon appear. After 3-4 years, the Japanese nutshells will be ready for transplanting. But experienced growers recommend planting the trees immediately in a permanent location, as in three years the seedlings will have had time to form long roots that go deep into the soil.
The seeds should be planted in the autumn and 4 to 6 nuts should be planted in a single hole. To increase the probability of sprouting, pre-soak the nuts in warm water for 24 hours.An important condition for successful sprouting is soil cleared of rhizomes and weeds, which should be nutritious, loose and moist. The embedment depth for autumn sowing is 10-12 cm, 6-8 cm for spring sowing (after stratification). The seeds should be placed horizontally but not deeply into the hole, and protection from rodents should be provided if the seedlings are grown in the open ground. The first shoots should not be expected until the following summer. The seeds will first produce white roots and then form a stem on which the first pair of leaves will soon appear. After 3-4 years, the Japanese nutshells will be ready for transplanting. But experienced growers recommend planting the trees immediately in a permanent location, as in three years the seedlings will have had time to form long roots that go deep into the soil.
Seeds need to be stratified at 1-5° for 3-4 months.
When selecting seed propagation, note that the nuts are coated with a high-strength shell. Seeds therefore need special preparation, otherwise seedlings will have to wait a very long time to emerge. Warm water (20 to 23 degrees Celsius) is poured into a beaker and the seeds are immersed in it. Soak the seeds in the water for three days. Don't forget to change the water regularly: in the morning and in the evening.
Next, the nuts are sent to germinate, for this they are buried in moistened sand or sawdust, and buried at 10-12 centimeters. The optimum germination temperature is between 18 and 24 degrees. Moisten the substrate regularly and after 15 to 20 days the first seedlings will appear.
When selecting seed propagation, note that the nuts are coated with a high-strength shell. Seeds therefore need special preparation, otherwise seedlings will have to wait a very long time to emerge. Warm water (20 to 23 degrees Celsius) is poured into a beaker and the seeds are immersed in it. Soak the seeds in the water for three days. Don't forget to change the water regularly: in the morning and in the evening.
Next, the nuts are sent to germinate, for this they are buried in moistened sand or sawdust, and buried at 10-12 centimeters. The optimum germination temperature is between 18 and 24 degrees. Moisten the substrate regularly and after 15 to 20 days the first seedlings will appear.
The seeds need to be stratified at 1-5° for 3-4 months.
The seeds are ready for planting in autumn and are buried in the ground. The germination period of the heartnut is two years.
The seeds can also be planted in spring, but they are prepared for planting in advance. Harvest the ripe walnut fruits in September, peel them from their shells (pericarp) and store them in a dry, well-ventilated room.
In January, the hazelnut is stratified so that it can be planted in the ground in spring. To do this, the seeds of the walnut are placed in a bag with damp sand and sent to the refrigerator, where they will harden until spring.
Seeds can be sown in May, in warmed soil, immediately in a permanent place, as young trees do not respond well to transplanting. The planting depth of the seeds is up to 6 cm. Soak the seeds in warm water for a few days before burying them in the ground.
The first shoots appear in June or July. This is because the plant will put all its energy into growing its root and then its above-ground green part.
The seeds are ready for planting in autumn and are buried in the ground. The germination period of the heartnut is two years.
The seeds can also be planted in spring, but they are prepared for planting in advance. Harvest the ripe walnut fruits in September, peel them from their shells (pericarp) and store them in a dry, well-ventilated room.
In January, the hazelnut is stratified so that it can be planted in the ground in spring. To do this, the seeds of the walnut are placed in a bag with damp sand and sent to the refrigerator, where they will harden until spring.
Seeds can be sown in May, in warmed soil, immediately in a permanent place, as young trees do not respond well to transplanting. The planting depth of the seeds is up to 6 cm. Soak the seeds in warm water for a few days before burying them in the ground.
The first shoots appear in June or July. This is because the plant will put all its energy into growing its root and then its above-ground green part.
The seeds need to be stratified at 1-5°C for 3-4 months.
Chestnut seeds should always be stratified in moist sand or perlite or similar substrate for at least 2-5 months before planting. If you have stored them all winter in ordinary paper bags, take them out in spring and place them in wet sand. Close the container tightly, occasionally opening the lid for ventilation, or make small holes. Some gardeners place chestnuts in a box with sand and bury it deep in the autumn under the snow. However, even if stored correctly, the seed's rind will harden and this will make it more difficult for the young shoots to emerge. The seeds should therefore be soaked before planting. The seeds are immersed in warm water and kept for 5-7 days before planting, making sure to change the water once a day.The hard rind after soaking will soften, which will increase the chances of the nuts germinating. Chestnut is ready for planting when a white sprout has sprouted. The germ has been activated and it is now easier for the sprout to germinate. Sometimes walnut seedlings are planted in autumn. This method also has its adherents. The advantage of planting in the autumn is that the chestnuts have no time to dry out and there is no storage in the sand. However, you should still soak the seeds in water to ensure they sprout.
Chestnuts should be germinated in pots with a capacity of 300-500 ml. The minimum rules that should be followed at this initial stage are
- there are no special requirements to the composition of the soil - almost any soil will do, it is enough to buy a regular garden soil mixture in a gardening shop and fill the planting container with it;
- place a thin layer of drainage at the bottom of the pot;
- The substrate should be well moistened when planting the seeds.
Given the small size of the pots, the seeds should be about one-third of the way up. Chestnuts should be sown to a depth of 3 to 5 centimetres. Make sure to follow the recommendation, otherwise, if the seeds are placed deeper, there is a chance that the seedling will not come to the surface. The deeper into the substrate, the less oxygen there is and the colder the temperature of the environment. This means that the young shoot will not be able to overcome the thickness of the soil. And a high embedding will expose the nut to drying out. If all the rules are followed, the shoots will emerge in 2-3 weeks.
Chestnut seeds should always be stratified in moist sand or perlite or similar substrate for at least 2-5 months before planting. If you have stored them all winter in ordinary paper bags, take them out in spring and place them in wet sand. Close the container tightly, occasionally opening the lid for ventilation, or make small holes. Some gardeners place chestnuts in a box with sand and bury it deep in the autumn under the snow. However, even if stored correctly, the seed's rind will harden and this will make it more difficult for the young shoots to emerge. The seeds should therefore be soaked before planting. The seeds are immersed in warm water and kept for 5-7 days before planting, making sure to change the water once a day.The hard rind after soaking will soften, which will increase the chances of the nuts germinating. Chestnut is ready for planting when a white sprout has sprouted. The germ has been activated and it is now easier for the sprout to germinate. Sometimes walnut seedlings are planted in autumn. This method also has its adherents. The advantage of planting in the autumn is that the chestnuts have no time to dry out and there is no storage in the sand. However, you should still soak the seeds in water to ensure they sprout.
Chestnuts should be germinated in pots with a capacity of 300-500 ml. The minimum rules that should be followed at this initial stage are
- there are no special requirements to the composition of the soil - almost any soil will do, it is enough to buy a regular garden soil mixture in a gardening shop and fill the planting container with it;
- place a thin layer of drainage at the bottom of the pot;
- The substrate should be well moistened when planting the seeds.
Given the small size of the pots, the seeds should be about one-third of the way up. Chestnuts should be sown to a depth of 3 to 5 centimetres. Make sure to follow the recommendation, otherwise, if the seeds are placed deeper, there is a chance that the seedling will not come to the surface. The deeper into the substrate, the less oxygen there is and the colder the temperature of the environment. This means that the young shoot will not be able to overcome the thickness of the soil. And a high embedding will expose the nut to drying out. If all the rules are followed, the shoots will emerge in 2-3 weeks.
Seeds need to be stratified at 1-5°C for 3-4 months.
Seeds should only be sown after stratification. It lasts approximately 100 days. If planted in the autumn, they will have a germination rate of up to 85%. If planted in the spring, they will have a germination rate of up to 60%. The optimum planting depth is 5 centimetres. Transplant young seedlings that have hardened should be transplanted 1 year after germination. If the seedlings have not yet matured, it is advisable to plant them in a permanent location after 2-3 years.
Seeds should only be sown after stratification. It lasts approximately 100 days. If planted in the autumn, they will have a germination rate of up to 85%. If planted in the spring, they will have a germination rate of up to 60%. The optimum planting depth is 5 centimetres. Transplant young seedlings that have hardened should be transplanted 1 year after germination. If the seedlings have not yet matured, it is advisable to plant them in a permanent location after 2-3 years.
Seeds need to be stratified at 1-5° for 3-4 months.
The seeds should be sown in the autumn or stratified for long periods for sowing in the spring.
There are different ways to plant walnut:
- Soak the seeds in water for ten days. Change the water regularly.
- Soak the seeds for one day in warm water, then change the water, lowering its temperature every day. The duration of the procedure is two months. Bring the water temperature to five to seven degrees.
- In autumn, soak the seeds at 20-25 degrees for thirty days, then take them out into the snow until spring.
- Accelerated method - the seeds in early March are put in hot water for a day, then placed in the sand and left at room temperature. The seeds will germinate in a month.
- Another way is to keep the seeds in the refrigerator over the winter. Two weeks before planting, place the seeds in warm water, which should be changed every day.
- In autumn, sow the fruit directly into the ground by 5-10 cm.
After wintering in the refrigerator, you can place the seeds in a container with water so that they are more than half covered with liquid. The floated nuts should be discarded. When the husks have opened (after about 2-7 days), place the nuts in moistened sawdust or sand. Place them on their sides, cover them with the same (sawdust or sand) and keep them at a temperature of 25-28 degrees. The seeds germinate within ten days. When the roots grow to a length of 1 cm, the containers are transferred to a cool room where it is possible to maintain a temperature of three to five degrees. This can be a loggia or balcony. There they will grow until planted in the soil. Peanuts are difficult to transplant, so it is advisable to plant young seedlings as soon as possible. Even two-year-old seedlings have already developed a well-developed root system and there is a great risk of damage if they are transplanted. When planting the seedlings, the roots must be pruned or the tap root must be nipped, otherwise the walnut will grow slowly.
The seeds should be sown in the autumn or stratified for long periods for sowing in the spring.
There are different ways to plant walnut:
- Soak the seeds in water for ten days. Change the water regularly.
- Soak the seeds for one day in warm water, then change the water, lowering its temperature every day. The duration of the procedure is two months. Bring the water temperature to five to seven degrees.
- In autumn, soak the seeds at 20-25 degrees for thirty days, then take them out into the snow until spring.
- Accelerated method - the seeds in early March are put in hot water for a day, then placed in the sand and left at room temperature. The seeds will germinate in a month.
- Another way is to keep the seeds in the refrigerator over the winter. Two weeks before planting, place the seeds in warm water, which should be changed every day.
- In autumn, sow the fruit directly into the ground by 5-10 cm.
After wintering in the refrigerator, you can place the seeds in a container with water so that they are more than half covered with liquid. The floated nuts should be discarded. When the husks have opened (after about 2-7 days), place the nuts in moistened sawdust or sand. Place them on their sides, cover them with the same (sawdust or sand) and keep them at a temperature of 25-28 degrees. The seeds germinate within ten days. When the roots grow to a length of 1 cm, the containers are transferred to a cool room where it is possible to maintain a temperature of three to five degrees. This can be a loggia or balcony. There they will grow until planted in the soil. Peanuts are difficult to transplant, so it is advisable to plant young seedlings as soon as possible. Even two-year-old seedlings have already developed a well-developed root system and there is a great risk of damage if they are transplanted. When planting the seedlings, the roots must be pruned or the tap root must be nipped, otherwise the walnut will grow slowly.
Seeds need to be stratified at 1-5° for 3-4 months. Store the seeds from the autumn in the refrigerator. After stratification, soak the nuts in plain water three days before planting. Change the water every day. Before planting, place the seeds in a container with damp sand and wait for the first sprouts to appear. The room temperature should be about +18 degrees. In northern latitudes you can plant the seeds at the end of spring. In the middle belt this term is shifted to April.
Planting can be done as follows:
1) The soil is first turned over.
2) Make holes about 10 cm deep. The distance between the holes is 20 cm.
3) Put the nuts on the ground sideways and cover with a layer of nutrient soil. Mulch the soil on top.
Transplant the seedlings to a permanent location one year after sowing. At this age, the roots tolerate transplanting well, recovering quickly. This is best done in mid-autumn.
Planting can be done as follows:
1) The soil is first turned over.
2) Make holes about 10 cm deep. The distance between the holes is 20 cm.
3) Put the nuts on the ground sideways and cover with a layer of nutrient soil. Mulch the soil on top.
Transplant the seedlings to a permanent location one year after sowing. At this age, the roots tolerate transplanting well, recovering quickly. This is best done in mid-autumn.
Seeds are stored in burlap in a cool, damp, well-ventilated room. Seed germination during such storage lasts up to 1.5-2 years.
It is recommended to stratify the seeds. To do this, mix the nut with vermiculite/perlite/sand in a container, slightly moisten the substrate and put it in the refrigerator for a couple of weeks. Afterwards, they are scarified or treated with growth stimulants, then planted in a permanent place of residence, deepening 4-5 cm into the soil. To increase germination, several seeds are placed in one hole. In the initial phase of development, the nut grows slowly, but in 4 years it reaches a height of about 2 meters. The first flowering begins in the 2nd year, and by the age of 5 the tree bears fruit every year.
It is recommended to stratify the seeds. To do this, mix the nut with vermiculite/perlite/sand in a container, slightly moisten the substrate and put it in the refrigerator for a couple of weeks. Afterwards, they are scarified or treated with growth stimulants, then planted in a permanent place of residence, deepening 4-5 cm into the soil. To increase germination, several seeds are placed in one hole. In the initial phase of development, the nut grows slowly, but in 4 years it reaches a height of about 2 meters. The first flowering begins in the 2nd year, and by the age of 5 the tree bears fruit every year.
Seeds need to be stratified at 1-5° for 3-4 months.
Sown in spring after a long period of stratification lasting 5 months. Planting is also possible in autumn. Seeds can withstand frosts and almost do not freeze. Before planting, they should be treated with paraffin to prevent rodents from eating them. For spring planting, soak the stratified fruit in warm water for 10 days. The water should be changed regularly. Accelerated stratification involves soaking the nuts in hot water beforehand. They are then placed in wet sand until the first sprouts emerge. The germinated seeds are planted 7-8 cm upwards. The seeds do not require special cover and watering. However, once the seedlings have emerged, they should be kept free of weeds and loosened to allow air to enter the soil.
Sown in spring after a long period of stratification lasting 5 months. Planting is also possible in autumn. Seeds can withstand frosts and almost do not freeze. Before planting, they should be treated with paraffin to prevent rodents from eating them. For spring planting, soak the stratified fruit in warm water for 10 days. The water should be changed regularly. Accelerated stratification involves soaking the nuts in hot water beforehand. They are then placed in wet sand until the first sprouts emerge. The germinated seeds are planted 7-8 cm upwards. The seeds do not require special cover and watering. However, once the seedlings have emerged, they should be kept free of weeds and loosened to allow air to enter the soil.
All planting and soaking work should be carried out with gloves. The soil for growing cashews should be light, fertile and loose.
The seeds are soaked in warm water for 24 hours, then sown without deep penetration into fresh, moist soil, moistened with a spray bottle, covered with film and germinated in the light at a temperature of 23-28°C. The seedlings need ventilation. It is necessary to avoid waterlogging and drying out of crops. Seeds germinate within 3 weeks.
When caring for a tropical plant, it is important to maintain temperature conditions, regular watering and provide good lighting.
The seeds are soaked in warm water for 24 hours, then sown without deep penetration into fresh, moist soil, moistened with a spray bottle, covered with film and germinated in the light at a temperature of 23-28°C. The seedlings need ventilation. It is necessary to avoid waterlogging and drying out of crops. Seeds germinate within 3 weeks.
When caring for a tropical plant, it is important to maintain temperature conditions, regular watering and provide good lighting.
Tobacco
Sowing seeds from mid-February to April (included).
When sowing the seeds, it is advisable to use a normal disposable container. Fill the container with earth, preferably store-bought earth, and pour it into the container with boiling water an hour before the seeds are planted. During this time, the soil is aerated. Then it is best to pour the seeds a little, as with a large number, when they germinate, they will hammer themselves, they have little area for the root system, and the seedlings grow slower.
Poured the seeds, spray them with a prepared solution of Topaz (2-3 divisions in 5 cc syringe (not cubes) of 1.5 litres of water), it really helps with the development of seedlings used to improve germination, prizhivaniya, disease resistance.
Then cover tightly with a lid, you can just put it in a normal bag. And leave it like this for 2-3 days until the seeds start to sprout their roots. Then start opening the lid little by little so that the tobacco slowly gets used to the normal environment. If you open it immediately, the seedlings will simply fall over and disappear, open the lid more and more each time for 3 days. Then simply remove the lid. Tobacco seeds grow better at a temperature of 22 degrees or higher. When the lids are fully opened, the tobacco will need more light, so you can place it on windows with sufficient light or put it under a daylight lamp.
It is also not advisable to flood the tobacco too much. It does not like this. The seedlings will begin to rot at the root and will then simply fall over. Water moderately, so that the soil dries out, but only a little.
In the phase of the cross (the appearance of 2 true leaves) tobacco can be planted in individual cups or other containers. Plant in the ground when the danger of frost has passed. The distance between the bushes should be at least 30 cm. Tobacco needs plenty of potassium. Remove the leaves gradually, starting with the lower tier. Leaf maturity occurs when the leaf turns yellow-green and the veins turn white. The leaf becomes sticky and sagging. A distinctive cracking sound is heard when the leaf breaks. The best time for harvesting is at the end of the day. The leaves contain a minimum of water. To improve the quality, tobacco is topped by breaking off the flower stalks. After topping, the stalks begin to grow vigorously and must also be removed in good time.
When sowing the seeds, it is advisable to use a normal disposable container. Fill the container with earth, preferably store-bought earth, and pour it into the container with boiling water an hour before the seeds are planted. During this time, the soil is aerated. Then it is best to pour the seeds a little, as with a large number, when they germinate, they will hammer themselves, they have little area for the root system, and the seedlings grow slower.
Poured the seeds, spray them with a prepared solution of Topaz (2-3 divisions in 5 cc syringe (not cubes) of 1.5 litres of water), it really helps with the development of seedlings used to improve germination, prizhivaniya, disease resistance.
Then cover tightly with a lid, you can just put it in a normal bag. And leave it like this for 2-3 days until the seeds start to sprout their roots. Then start opening the lid little by little so that the tobacco slowly gets used to the normal environment. If you open it immediately, the seedlings will simply fall over and disappear, open the lid more and more each time for 3 days. Then simply remove the lid. Tobacco seeds grow better at a temperature of 22 degrees or higher. When the lids are fully opened, the tobacco will need more light, so you can place it on windows with sufficient light or put it under a daylight lamp.
It is also not advisable to flood the tobacco too much. It does not like this. The seedlings will begin to rot at the root and will then simply fall over. Water moderately, so that the soil dries out, but only a little.
In the phase of the cross (the appearance of 2 true leaves) tobacco can be planted in individual cups or other containers. Plant in the ground when the danger of frost has passed. The distance between the bushes should be at least 30 cm. Tobacco needs plenty of potassium. Remove the leaves gradually, starting with the lower tier. Leaf maturity occurs when the leaf turns yellow-green and the veins turn white. The leaf becomes sticky and sagging. A distinctive cracking sound is heard when the leaf breaks. The best time for harvesting is at the end of the day. The leaves contain a minimum of water. To improve the quality, tobacco is topped by breaking off the flower stalks. After topping, the stalks begin to grow vigorously and must also be removed in good time.
Flower seeds
Seeds need to be stratified in two stages: I. at 18 - 20°C for 5 months for germ development and II. at 5°C to eliminate the dormancy of the epicotyl.
18 - 20° for 5 months for germination and germination, and at 5° for elimination of epicotyl dormancy. When sown outdoors, they will germinate in the second year.
The seeds are stratified at home for 7.5 months. They are placed in a small container filled with damp sand and stored for 2.5 months at 20 ⁰C. The seed should be kept in the refrigerator for the remaining 5 months. The container will then be kept warm and watered regularly, so that the seedlings will sprout after a while. The seedlings will be moved out into the open soil after 2 years.
18 - 20° for 5 months for germination and germination, and at 5° for elimination of epicotyl dormancy. When sown outdoors, they will germinate in the second year.
The seeds are stratified at home for 7.5 months. They are placed in a small container filled with damp sand and stored for 2.5 months at 20 ⁰C. The seed should be kept in the refrigerator for the remaining 5 months. The container will then be kept warm and watered regularly, so that the seedlings will sprout after a while. The seedlings will be moved out into the open soil after 2 years.
The seeds will germinate at a temperature of 5 ºC. The seeds are sown in March in greenhouses in a soil consisting of 2-3 parts sand and one part sod and one part mulch. Sprouts appear in two to three weeks. Seeds of perennials are sown in autumn in growing boxes with substrate and bury the containers in the snow and keep in a cold cellar until then. Sprouts will not start to appear until the following spring, when the air will have warmed to 20 ºC. But some seeds do not germinate until a year later.
Seeds need a two-stage stratification: I. at 18-20° for 5 months for germination and germination, and II. at 5° to eliminate dormancy of the epicotyl. When sown outdoors, they will germinate in the second year.
The seeds are stratified at home for 7.5 months. They are placed in a small container filled with damp sand and stored for 2.5 months at 20 ⁰C. The seed should be kept in the refrigerator for the remaining 5 months. The container will then be kept warm and watered regularly, so that the seedlings will sprout after a while. The seedlings will be moved out into the open soil after 2 years.
The seeds are stratified at home for 7.5 months. They are placed in a small container filled with damp sand and stored for 2.5 months at 20 ⁰C. The seed should be kept in the refrigerator for the remaining 5 months. The container will then be kept warm and watered regularly, so that the seedlings will sprout after a while. The seedlings will be moved out into the open soil after 2 years.
The night beauty flower is propagated by seeds that should be scarified before sowing, i.e. their hard shell should be slightly damaged with a file or emery paper. The seeds of the nocturnal beauty are then placed in a thermos with warm water for 24 hours. When to sow mirabilis? Sow mirabilis seeds in early or mid-April in cups filled with a light neutral or slightly alkaline soil: You can buy ready-made soil at the shop, but you can make the substrate yourself by mixing two parts turf and peat, one part humus or compost, half-washed sand and adding for every 5 litres of the resulting mixture by half a cup of wood ash or 2 tablespoons of dolomite flour. Fill the cups ¾ full, compact the mixture and water liberally with the fungicide solution. Two seeds are placed in each cup, covered with a layer of loose soil 1-1.5 cm thick and sprayed with water from a fine sprayer.
Place the seeds in a greenhouse and keep them at a temperature of 18-20 ºC. Home cultivation Sprouts will begin to emerge after 5-6 days, and once this has occurred, remove the cover from the mirabilis and move the seedlings as close to light as possible. When the seedlings have developed their first true leaf, cut off the weaker seedling in each pot at ground level so that it does not impede the development of the stronger one. Around this time, apply the first fertiliser such as Rastorin, Fertica or Krepush.
Place the seeds in a greenhouse and keep them at a temperature of 18-20 ºC. Home cultivation Sprouts will begin to emerge after 5-6 days, and once this has occurred, remove the cover from the mirabilis and move the seedlings as close to light as possible. When the seedlings have developed their first true leaf, cut off the weaker seedling in each pot at ground level so that it does not impede the development of the stronger one. Around this time, apply the first fertiliser such as Rastorin, Fertica or Krepush.
To speed up germination, soak the seed in Epin, Zircon, Heteroauxin or another growth stimulator. An aloe leaf can also be used (the plant must be at least 3 years old). Keep it in the refrigerator for a few days, then cut it open and place some lion's wort seeds in the centre. After two hours, take it out and dry it. There is no need to rinse.
Growing seedlings of lion's-throat does not go without preparing containers. Choose convenient low containers or individual pots, disinfect them in manganese beforehand. Be sure to make drainage in the containers.
Use commercially available potting soil (but not pure peat, since snapdragons are not big fans of peat) or make your own potting soil. Mix sand, compost and peat in equal proportions. You can also add some wood ash to the soil. It should be steamed before sowing to reduce the risk of seed rot, and sieved to make it easier for the seeds to germinate.
Then fill the containers with potting soil and moisten them. Mix the fine anti-rhinum seeds with the sand so that they spread more evenly over the soil surface, sow them, cover with soil, then moisten with a spray gun and cover the container with foil or glass. Put the pot in a warm, well-lit place.
Growing seedlings of lion's-throat does not go without preparing containers. Choose convenient low containers or individual pots, disinfect them in manganese beforehand. Be sure to make drainage in the containers.
Use commercially available potting soil (but not pure peat, since snapdragons are not big fans of peat) or make your own potting soil. Mix sand, compost and peat in equal proportions. You can also add some wood ash to the soil. It should be steamed before sowing to reduce the risk of seed rot, and sieved to make it easier for the seeds to germinate.
Then fill the containers with potting soil and moisten them. Mix the fine anti-rhinum seeds with the sand so that they spread more evenly over the soil surface, sow them, cover with soil, then moisten with a spray gun and cover the container with foil or glass. Put the pot in a warm, well-lit place.
Planting lobelia seedlings is easy, but remember that the seeds are very small and must be handled with care so as not to spill them over.
For the rest, here's a step-by-step guide to planting lobelia:
1. One day before the event, fill the planting containers with soil, compact a little and water well.
2. level the soil surface well.
3. Mix the seeds with a small amount of clean river sand (it will help to achieve a more even planting).
4. gently spread the seeds on a white piece of paper which has been folded in half (this will help to spread them out easily). Alternatively, you can use a toothpick (moisten one end with water, pick it up and flick the other end into the soil with the toothpick).
5. Now sow the seeds evenly over the soil surface. Try not to plant too densely by sowing too many seeds in one place.
6. After planting, water with a sprayer using clean room temperature water.
7. Cover the seeds with a lid, glass or foil and place them in a warm, bright place.
You can sow in a common box in rows, with a spacing between the furrows of about 2-3 centimetres. This method will make it easier to care for the plants in the future.
For faster germination of the seedlings, you can spray the soil with a growth-promoting solution such as Zircon or Epin.
For the rest, here's a step-by-step guide to planting lobelia:
1. One day before the event, fill the planting containers with soil, compact a little and water well.
2. level the soil surface well.
3. Mix the seeds with a small amount of clean river sand (it will help to achieve a more even planting).
4. gently spread the seeds on a white piece of paper which has been folded in half (this will help to spread them out easily). Alternatively, you can use a toothpick (moisten one end with water, pick it up and flick the other end into the soil with the toothpick).
5. Now sow the seeds evenly over the soil surface. Try not to plant too densely by sowing too many seeds in one place.
6. After planting, water with a sprayer using clean room temperature water.
7. Cover the seeds with a lid, glass or foil and place them in a warm, bright place.
You can sow in a common box in rows, with a spacing between the furrows of about 2-3 centimetres. This method will make it easier to care for the plants in the future.
For faster germination of the seedlings, you can spray the soil with a growth-promoting solution such as Zircon or Epin.
For March sowing and flowering in the first year, apply stratification through a refrigerator, keeping the seedlings in it for 2-3 weeks; then transfer to room conditions, at +20-22°C sprouting will appear on 14-20 days.
At the same time treat the seeds with any kind of stimulant (normally Zircon or Epin, or succinic acid, or you can use HB-101 in combination with Energen Aqua) and sow in a "snail" (self-tiller) without soil.
Thus, when sown on a paper towel in the "snail" seeds of perennial rudbeckia begin to germinate on the second day, the rest are pulled up on the fourth or fifth day. Sprouting occurs on the next day or two after the seeds have sprouted.
At the same time treat the seeds with any kind of stimulant (normally Zircon or Epin, or succinic acid, or you can use HB-101 in combination with Energen Aqua) and sow in a "snail" (self-tiller) without soil.
Thus, when sown on a paper towel in the "snail" seeds of perennial rudbeckia begin to germinate on the second day, the rest are pulled up on the fourth or fifth day. Sprouting occurs on the next day or two after the seeds have sprouted.
The seeds are sown in February or March. Spread the coarse seeds on a moist substrate and only cover them lightly with vermiculite, although this does not have to be done. Keep the seeds in a light place at a temperature of 20-23 ºC, protecting them from direct sunlight and moistening the soil as necessary. It will take about a week or two for the seedlings to emerge.
Sow daisies from seed in June, directly into moist soil, but with a little sand or sifted mulch, as the seeds need sunlight and a temperature of around 20ºC to germinate. Under these conditions you can expect the first sprouts in a week. If you cover the unseeded seeds with a transparent foil, the germination will be activated, and it does not matter how deep you go - the seedlings will sprout anyway. After two days, the foil can be removed and the seedlings lightly covered with soil.
The seedlings develop very quickly, so they will soon need to be picked, which is carried out directly in the open ground according to the scheme 20x20. Daisies will flower from seed only next spring, as they only have time this year to accrue rosettes from the leaves. Daisies can also be propagated by self-sowing - you will only need to thin out the seedlings in spring by removing weak or unhealthy seedlings, but with this self-propagation, the inflorescences become smaller over the years and lose their varietal qualities.
The seedlings develop very quickly, so they will soon need to be picked, which is carried out directly in the open ground according to the scheme 20x20. Daisies will flower from seed only next spring, as they only have time this year to accrue rosettes from the leaves. Daisies can also be propagated by self-sowing - you will only need to thin out the seedlings in spring by removing weak or unhealthy seedlings, but with this self-propagation, the inflorescences become smaller over the years and lose their varietal qualities.
The time for sowing the seedlings is February-March. The optimum potting soil is ready-made potting soil, which can also be steamed. Sow superficially (without covering the seeds with soil). Seed bed should be placed in a light place and covered with glass (for germination requires light and high humidity), but be sure to remove it during the day for at least 2 times 20-30 minutes. Water with room-temperature water using a sprayer.
The temperature for seed germination is +21...+24°C.
Later on, with the emergence and development of seedlings (seedlings appear in 2 weeks), it is gradually reduced to +15 ... +18 ° C.
Water abundantly.
Fertilise with a liquid fertiliser for flowering plants at an interval of 2 weeks.
Prickling (if desired and necessary) is possible after the seedlings reach a height of 2 cm. Afterwards, the temperature should be lowered.
The temperature for seed germination is +21...+24°C.
Later on, with the emergence and development of seedlings (seedlings appear in 2 weeks), it is gradually reduced to +15 ... +18 ° C.
Water abundantly.
Fertilise with a liquid fertiliser for flowering plants at an interval of 2 weeks.
Prickling (if desired and necessary) is possible after the seedlings reach a height of 2 cm. Afterwards, the temperature should be lowered.
Sow the alyssum in the ground at the beginning of May to a depth of 1.5 cm and thin it out when the seedlings have emerged in a continuous carpet. But if you sow them in the spring, flowering will be delayed. You can sow seeds in November - they will pass natural stratification over the winter and you will get sturdy, healthy shoots which will flower in time.
But many florists still prefer the propagation method, and with good reason - it is more reliable and rarely gives rise to unpleasant surprises.
Before sowing a seedling in March/April, buy a light, nutritious, lime-poor soil (pH 5.5-6.2) and place it in the seedling box, then spread the seeds sparingly on the soil surface and bury them lightly in the same mixture, although you don't need to do this and just press the seeds against the surface. If you provide the seeds with good light, a greenhouse environment with glass or film and a temperature of 10-15 ºC with moderate moisture and airing, you can expect them to germinate in a week or even sooner.
But many florists still prefer the propagation method, and with good reason - it is more reliable and rarely gives rise to unpleasant surprises.
Before sowing a seedling in March/April, buy a light, nutritious, lime-poor soil (pH 5.5-6.2) and place it in the seedling box, then spread the seeds sparingly on the soil surface and bury them lightly in the same mixture, although you don't need to do this and just press the seeds against the surface. If you provide the seeds with good light, a greenhouse environment with glass or film and a temperature of 10-15 ºC with moderate moisture and airing, you can expect them to germinate in a week or even sooner.
Sow about two to two and a half months before heat sets in - at the end of February.
Sow the obrieta seeds in separate containers - peat tablets or peat-mulch pots - in which you will then plant the seedlings in the ground. Spread the seeds 2-3 pieces on the surface of a moist substrate, cover the top with a 3-5 mm thick layer of sand, moisten this sand cushion with a fine mist sprayer and place the seedlings under a film or glass. The optimum temperature for seed germination is 18-21 ºC.
Sow the obrieta seeds in separate containers - peat tablets or peat-mulch pots - in which you will then plant the seedlings in the ground. Spread the seeds 2-3 pieces on the surface of a moist substrate, cover the top with a 3-5 mm thick layer of sand, moisten this sand cushion with a fine mist sprayer and place the seedlings under a film or glass. The optimum temperature for seed germination is 18-21 ºC.
If you plan to plant the seedlings outdoors in May, plant the lavatera seedlings in early March. Before sowing the lavatera, drainage should be placed in the bottom of the seed boxes and seedling soil purchased at a florist should be placed on top. Then water the soil with warm water and immerse the dry seeds in it by just one centimetre, cover the seedlings with glass or foil and leave them in a bright place. Remove condensation from the glass and moisten the soil as needed. In a couple of weeks, the seedlings will emerge and may need additional light for successful growth - the seedlings will stretch and thin out if they don't get enough light. Once the seeds have germinated, the glass can be removed. Before transplanting the flower lavatera to the open field, care should be taken by periodically moistening the soil and turning the container with the seedlings around its axis to achieve even sprout development.
In warm climates, lavatera can be planted outdoors in late April or early May. Before lavatera can be planted, place a bucket of compost or humus and 2 tablespoons of nitrophoska in the soil per square metre before digging. Then the soil is levelled, 1 cm deep furrows are made, they are drenched with warm water and dry lavatera seeds are sown, and then they are covered with a mixture of garden soil and humus in equal proportions, covered and immediately covered with a transparent film. Lavatera from seed usually germinates in a week and when the seedlings reach 5 cm in height, the cover is removed, the seedlings are thinned out and the area is loosened with light hilling. If you have not been able to fertilise the garden soil before sowing the seeds, apply the first fertiliser in the form of a compound fertiliser after the cover has been removed.
In warm climates, lavatera can be planted outdoors in late April or early May. Before lavatera can be planted, place a bucket of compost or humus and 2 tablespoons of nitrophoska in the soil per square metre before digging. Then the soil is levelled, 1 cm deep furrows are made, they are drenched with warm water and dry lavatera seeds are sown, and then they are covered with a mixture of garden soil and humus in equal proportions, covered and immediately covered with a transparent film. Lavatera from seed usually germinates in a week and when the seedlings reach 5 cm in height, the cover is removed, the seedlings are thinned out and the area is loosened with light hilling. If you have not been able to fertilise the garden soil before sowing the seeds, apply the first fertiliser in the form of a compound fertiliser after the cover has been removed.
Seeds can be sown directly into the ground before winter in October or for seedlings in February-March. Seeds need to be stratified: sow seeds to a depth of 0.3 cm, moisten, cover with film and place in the refrigerator (temperature +5-+7C) for 7-10 days, then transfer to room conditions (temperature +18-+20C). It is necessary to monitor the humidity and ventilate the crops.
Seedlings appear on the 10-14th day. If there is no germination, repeat the cold-heat in the same sequence.
When 2-3 pairs of true leaves appear, seedlings are pricked out into boxes. After 4-6 weeks, seedlings are planted in open ground.
Prefers sunny places with warm, poor soil. Does not tolerate damp soils.
Seedlings appear on the 10-14th day. If there is no germination, repeat the cold-heat in the same sequence.
When 2-3 pairs of true leaves appear, seedlings are pricked out into boxes. After 4-6 weeks, seedlings are planted in open ground.
Prefers sunny places with warm, poor soil. Does not tolerate damp soils.
If sown in the spring, the seeds should be pre-treated - stratified. To do this, the fresh material is mixed with peat soil and sand in special boxes and placed in a refrigerator or cool cellar, and in winter they are periodically taken out and mixed.
The seeds will begin to germinate in 1.5 to 2 months, and it is important not to miss this point. The germinated seeds are taken out of the freezer and sown into individual containers (at least 5 cm in diameter and with a drainage hole) filled with light, fertile soil that has been moistened beforehand. You can use special soil for roses, which can be purchased at a florist's shop. Peat pellets are also excellent for growing roses from seed.
It is advisable to soak the soil with a solution of Phytosporin before sowing the seeds.
Sow the seeds superficially (do not bury them in the soil) and lightly cover with vermiculite or perlite. Cover the container with a transparent plastic lid or cling film and place it in a warm place (e.g. on a radiator). As the soil dries out, water the future roses with warm water and remove any condensation daily. When the seedlings appear, remove the cover or cling film. Keep the seedlings at a temperature of 18-20°C.
The seeds will begin to germinate in 1.5 to 2 months, and it is important not to miss this point. The germinated seeds are taken out of the freezer and sown into individual containers (at least 5 cm in diameter and with a drainage hole) filled with light, fertile soil that has been moistened beforehand. You can use special soil for roses, which can be purchased at a florist's shop. Peat pellets are also excellent for growing roses from seed.
It is advisable to soak the soil with a solution of Phytosporin before sowing the seeds.
Sow the seeds superficially (do not bury them in the soil) and lightly cover with vermiculite or perlite. Cover the container with a transparent plastic lid or cling film and place it in a warm place (e.g. on a radiator). As the soil dries out, water the future roses with warm water and remove any condensation daily. When the seedlings appear, remove the cover or cling film. Keep the seedlings at a temperature of 18-20°C.
If sowing in the autumn, prepare the seedbed in October. Make the furrows at 20 cm intervals and sow the seeds sparsely. The time should be chosen when the soil is still workable, but the chance of the seeds sprouting is minimal. Having undergone natural stratification, in the spring, with a steady warming, they will spring up more quickly.
In spring, sow blue-eye in April or May as soon as the ground warms up. If it still holds moisture, you don't need to water - there is plenty of natural rainfall at this time of year. If the sowing is delayed, the bed will need to be moistened slightly, but not flooded, so as not to have a crust on the surface.
The seeds are sown in peat cups or other prepared nutrient soil in March. You can use crates for this purpose first, so that you can pick the seedlings later. But it is more convenient to sow the seeds in individual cups at once in 2-3 pieces.
As the seedlings emerge, they should be thinned down leaving the strongest one behind. It is better to remove with scissors, so as not to damage the roots of the seedling, which should be preserved. Water as it dries out, without waiting for a firm crust or an over-dry layer.
After about three weeks, the seedlings should be hardened. To do this, take the pots out into the fresh air for an hour at first, then for two, gradually increasing the time to a day. Once they are accustomed to the new conditions, the plants will easily transfer to the open ground. The best time for transplanting is in mid- to late May, when night frosts are no longer likely.
In spring, sow blue-eye in April or May as soon as the ground warms up. If it still holds moisture, you don't need to water - there is plenty of natural rainfall at this time of year. If the sowing is delayed, the bed will need to be moistened slightly, but not flooded, so as not to have a crust on the surface.
The seeds are sown in peat cups or other prepared nutrient soil in March. You can use crates for this purpose first, so that you can pick the seedlings later. But it is more convenient to sow the seeds in individual cups at once in 2-3 pieces.
As the seedlings emerge, they should be thinned down leaving the strongest one behind. It is better to remove with scissors, so as not to damage the roots of the seedling, which should be preserved. Water as it dries out, without waiting for a firm crust or an over-dry layer.
After about three weeks, the seedlings should be hardened. To do this, take the pots out into the fresh air for an hour at first, then for two, gradually increasing the time to a day. Once they are accustomed to the new conditions, the plants will easily transfer to the open ground. The best time for transplanting is in mid- to late May, when night frosts are no longer likely.
Growing echscholzia most often involves sowing the seeds directly into the ground. But interestingly, experienced growers prefer to grow echscholzia in seedlings, so we suggest you find out how to do this as well. This crop has a long tap root system which can easily be damaged if transplanted and is therefore best sown in peat pellets. Planting and looking after echscholzia in pellets is done in the following order: put pellets in a plastic container and pour water into it, when the pellets will absorb the water, drain the rest, put one seed in each pellet with a wet toothpick, sprinkle a little sprinkling of seedling soil on top, spray the seeds with water from a sprayer and cover the container with glass or film.
The first shoots will appear after about two weeks, then remove the glass and place the container with the pellets in a bright place and keep it at a temperature not higher than 20 ºC. At this stage, the care of Esholtia consists of moistening the soil as necessary and applying liquid seedling fertiliser two weeks after the emergence of seedlings. Three weeks before planting outdoors, start hardening the seedlings by placing them in a cool room during the day for a few hours. Hardened seedlings can withstand temperatures as low as -5 ºC after planting in the ground.
The first shoots will appear after about two weeks, then remove the glass and place the container with the pellets in a bright place and keep it at a temperature not higher than 20 ºC. At this stage, the care of Esholtia consists of moistening the soil as necessary and applying liquid seedling fertiliser two weeks after the emergence of seedlings. Three weeks before planting outdoors, start hardening the seedlings by placing them in a cool room during the day for a few hours. Hardened seedlings can withstand temperatures as low as -5 ºC after planting in the ground.
Like annuals, perennials propagate generatively. In places with warm climates where frosts do not occur in May, it is possible to plant zinnias directly in the ground, but if night frosts are common in your area, know that zinnia seeds sown in the ground will already die at a temperature of -1ºC. For this reason, experienced flower growers consider that it is better to cultivate and harden the plant as a seedling, and then planting zinnias in the ground, followed by rooting, will be successful. Before sowing, wrap the zinnia seeds in a cloth or gauze soaked in epin to see which ones are germinating and which are not. Fresh seeds germinate in a couple of days and older seeds take a week to germinate. At the end of March or beginning of April, the germinating seeds are sown two or three at a time into peat pots with moist substrate and thus avoiding the later stage of picking, which this crop does not like. The seeds should be moistened and placed in a light place. The optimum temperature for the germination of the zinia is 22-24 ºC. If you do everything correctly, the seedlings will appear in a few days.
Ursinia seeds should be sown in early March.
The seeds should be sown in large containers with a side height of about 20 cm. Although Ursinia is a southern plant, it is not necessary to cover the containers. The ambient temperature around the containers should be between 20 and 25 degrees Celsius. The room does not need to be specially heated.
The container soil must be disinfected. It is reheated in the oven at a temperature of approximately 170 degrees for half an hour. Once it has cooled down, it is thoroughly mixed, and then used.
Small holes no more than 10 cm deep are made in the ground. Seeds are sprinkled in them. Seeds should not be covered with earth, but with a layer of sterile sand 3 cm deep.
The first shoots will appear after 2 weeks.
The seeds should be sown in large containers with a side height of about 20 cm. Although Ursinia is a southern plant, it is not necessary to cover the containers. The ambient temperature around the containers should be between 20 and 25 degrees Celsius. The room does not need to be specially heated.
The container soil must be disinfected. It is reheated in the oven at a temperature of approximately 170 degrees for half an hour. Once it has cooled down, it is thoroughly mixed, and then used.
Small holes no more than 10 cm deep are made in the ground. Seeds are sprinkled in them. Seeds should not be covered with earth, but with a layer of sterile sand 3 cm deep.
The first shoots will appear after 2 weeks.
The seeds are light-sensitive. Stratify at 1 - 5° for 1-2 months to enhance germination.
Sow phlox at the end of February or in early spring in low containers. This can be a wooden box, a plastic container or a clear food tray. The container should be clean and rinsed with boiling water to make it safe. Place a layer of expanded clay drainage at the bottom, then fill in the soil.
Spread the phlox seeds evenly over the surface and then press them down gently with your hand so that they are firmly in contact with the soil. There is not much planting material in a single packet, so it is best to take 2-3 packets of seeds, since not all of them will come out. Cover the seeds with a little dry soil. Moisten the soil with a sprayer and cover with cling film.
Put the container with the seeds in a bright place. The cover should not be removed until the seeds have germinated. Remove the cover daily for 15-20 minutes to allow the seedlings to air out. The soil should be sprinkled with room-temperature water as needed and should not be allowed to dry out, otherwise the seeds will die.
Sow phlox at the end of February or in early spring in low containers. This can be a wooden box, a plastic container or a clear food tray. The container should be clean and rinsed with boiling water to make it safe. Place a layer of expanded clay drainage at the bottom, then fill in the soil.
Spread the phlox seeds evenly over the surface and then press them down gently with your hand so that they are firmly in contact with the soil. There is not much planting material in a single packet, so it is best to take 2-3 packets of seeds, since not all of them will come out. Cover the seeds with a little dry soil. Moisten the soil with a sprayer and cover with cling film.
Put the container with the seeds in a bright place. The cover should not be removed until the seeds have germinated. Remove the cover daily for 15-20 minutes to allow the seedlings to air out. The soil should be sprinkled with room-temperature water as needed and should not be allowed to dry out, otherwise the seeds will die.
The seeds should be disinfected before planting. This can be done with a solution of manganese, chlorhexidine or green (simply immerse the seeds in a cloth bag for half an hour and then rinse). Or make a Phytosporin solution and soak according to the instructions.
Put a drainage layer (max. 1 cm) at the bottom of the container, e.g. sand, keramzite of a small size.
Fill the container 2/3 full with soil and moisten with warm water.
Pour a thin layer of sand on top, moisten the sand again with a spray gun.
Sow the seeds evenly, without placing them too close together (the best distance is 3 centimetres).
It is not necessary to cover the seeds on top of them, they will germinate in the light. Just press them gently into the soil with the palm of your hand!
Spray them with a sprayer and place them in a warm place with a temperature of 22-25 degrees Celsius.
Put a drainage layer (max. 1 cm) at the bottom of the container, e.g. sand, keramzite of a small size.
Fill the container 2/3 full with soil and moisten with warm water.
Pour a thin layer of sand on top, moisten the sand again with a spray gun.
Sow the seeds evenly, without placing them too close together (the best distance is 3 centimetres).
It is not necessary to cover the seeds on top of them, they will germinate in the light. Just press them gently into the soil with the palm of your hand!
Spray them with a sprayer and place them in a warm place with a temperature of 22-25 degrees Celsius.
The seeds should be sown at the beginning of February. This rule should be adhered to and will allow the bush to enjoy its flowering the same year.
Before placing the seeds in the soil, you should:
Carry out stratification of the planting material (all grains should be kept for about 30 days at a temperature no higher than 7ºC).
Only neutral soil should be used.
To make the seeds germinate faster, cover the container with polyethylene.
Prick the young plants when they have two full leaves each.
Plant out in mid-May and keep in a cool place until then.
Before planting the seedlings in the bed, it is necessary to harden them a little. For this purpose, take the young plants out into the fresh air for a fortnight and increase the amount of time. Before moving them to the bed, water the soil in the pot and wait for approximately two hours. At the end of this time, remove the pots from each plant while maintaining the integrity of the soil and place them in the hollow previously made.
Before placing the seeds in the soil, you should:
Carry out stratification of the planting material (all grains should be kept for about 30 days at a temperature no higher than 7ºC).
Only neutral soil should be used.
To make the seeds germinate faster, cover the container with polyethylene.
Prick the young plants when they have two full leaves each.
Plant out in mid-May and keep in a cool place until then.
Before planting the seedlings in the bed, it is necessary to harden them a little. For this purpose, take the young plants out into the fresh air for a fortnight and increase the amount of time. Before moving them to the bed, water the soil in the pot and wait for approximately two hours. At the end of this time, remove the pots from each plant while maintaining the integrity of the soil and place them in the hollow previously made.
Safflower is grown by direct sowing from seed. It is difficult to transplant because of its long tap root. The optimum germination temperature is around 15-20°C.
Before planting, prepare the soil by removing stones and other debris. Add compost or aged manure (if the soil is depleted). Plant the seeds 20 cm apart and 30 cm between the rows. Each 'juvenile' needs enough space to develop. In addition, the distance will limit the spread of diseases between the plants. Tiller each seed to a depth of 2 to 3 cm.
Lightly tamp down the soil and water gently from a watering can, taking care not to wash the seeds away. Keep the soil moist during the germination process. It will be 2-3 weeks before the seedlings are ready to germinate.
Safflower needs a warm, dry place. Plant it in sunny, south- or west-facing parts of the garden. You can decorate sloping areas with false saffron.
The soil should be deep, well-drained and loamy (loosen it before planting if it is heavy and too clayey). Add peat moss and compost to sandy soil. Safflower is not pH-demanding and prefers neutral soil.
Water carefully as there is a tendency for rot and fungal diseases to develop if it is too wet. Avoid wetting the foliage as this can lead to the development of diseases.
Before planting, prepare the soil by removing stones and other debris. Add compost or aged manure (if the soil is depleted). Plant the seeds 20 cm apart and 30 cm between the rows. Each 'juvenile' needs enough space to develop. In addition, the distance will limit the spread of diseases between the plants. Tiller each seed to a depth of 2 to 3 cm.
Lightly tamp down the soil and water gently from a watering can, taking care not to wash the seeds away. Keep the soil moist during the germination process. It will be 2-3 weeks before the seedlings are ready to germinate.
Safflower needs a warm, dry place. Plant it in sunny, south- or west-facing parts of the garden. You can decorate sloping areas with false saffron.
The soil should be deep, well-drained and loamy (loosen it before planting if it is heavy and too clayey). Add peat moss and compost to sandy soil. Safflower is not pH-demanding and prefers neutral soil.
Water carefully as there is a tendency for rot and fungal diseases to develop if it is too wet. Avoid wetting the foliage as this can lead to the development of diseases.
Scabiosa seedlings can be sown in March/April for cultivation in the greenhouse or at home. Seeds that are too densely sown will require picking.
Seeds are sown in containers of different sizes, filled with a nutritious substrate - this can be vegetable soil mixed with organic matter, or universal soil from the shop. Moisten the soil, place the seeds in it and cover with plastic. Leave the containers at a temperature of approximately 15°C. The seeds should be aired for half an hour every day and the moisture content of the soil should be monitored. As soon as the first shoots appear, remove the polythene and place the containers in a well-lit area. Sprouting is carried out when the plants appear 3-4 true leaves.
Sow into the open soil. The seeds can be sown directly into the soil in late April or early May. Sow 9 plants per 1 m².
Seeds are sown in containers of different sizes, filled with a nutritious substrate - this can be vegetable soil mixed with organic matter, or universal soil from the shop. Moisten the soil, place the seeds in it and cover with plastic. Leave the containers at a temperature of approximately 15°C. The seeds should be aired for half an hour every day and the moisture content of the soil should be monitored. As soon as the first shoots appear, remove the polythene and place the containers in a well-lit area. Sprouting is carried out when the plants appear 3-4 true leaves.
Sow into the open soil. The seeds can be sown directly into the soil in late April or early May. Sow 9 plants per 1 m².
For earlier flowering, grow Titonia sprouts from seed; when to plant them depends on the region. The seedlings are usually sown in spring in March. The indoor cultivation begins 6-8 weeks before the expected date of the last frost.
Sow the seeds and grow the titonia seedlings:
They are sown in boxes filled with seedling soil. The seeds should be covered with a small layer of sifted potting soil. Sow them shallowly as the seeds need light to germinate.
Cover the boxes with foil or glass and remove and air them every day. Keep the boxes at home or in a heated greenhouse. Titonia seeds will germinate in 2 weeks.
When the seedlings have sprouted and develop true leaves, they will be potted into individual pots.
Sow the seeds and grow the titonia seedlings:
They are sown in boxes filled with seedling soil. The seeds should be covered with a small layer of sifted potting soil. Sow them shallowly as the seeds need light to germinate.
Cover the boxes with foil or glass and remove and air them every day. Keep the boxes at home or in a heated greenhouse. Titonia seeds will germinate in 2 weeks.
When the seedlings have sprouted and develop true leaves, they will be potted into individual pots.
Prepare a soil mixture. You can buy universal potting soil for flower sprouts. Or you can make it yourself by mixing sod soil (2 parts), peat (1 part), sand (1 part); you can make soil according to another recipe: garden soil (3 parts), humus or compost (1 part), sand (1 part).
Prepare a planting container. It is more convenient to sow the seeds in a general wide and low container (box, container). The optimal height is about 7-8 cm, no more. Make sure there are drainage holes in the bottom of the container.
Put a 1.5 cm thick drainage layer at the bottom (perlite, fine claydite or crushed bricks are excellent).
Fill the container with soil, make sure the soil is even and moisten it liberally with a sprayer.
Sow the forget-me-not seeds. Sow them superficially (i.e. they do not need to be covered with earth), trying to distribute them evenly over the surface (preferably leaving a gap of approx. 1 cm).
Cover the container with a lid or film to create a mini-greenhouse.
The seeds should be given the right conditions to germinate immediately after sowing: they should be in greenhouse conditions, i.e. high humidity and warmth. The pot should therefore always be covered with a lid and cling film. However, it is advisable to let the mini-greenhouse air out for just 20-40 minutes every day.
When you see sprouts of forget-me-nots, you need to remove the cover and move the plants to the lightest window sill (preferably south, or at least south-east, south-west).
One of the main conditions for strong seedlings - a competent temperature regime, which varies depending on the stage of development of seedlings: immediately after sowing and before the appearance of seedlings on the ground the optimal temperature is 24-26 degrees, not below; after germination of seedlings the temperature for 7 days is reduced to 18-16 degrees (such reduction will help avoid pulling); 7 days after emergence of seedlings should increase t to 20-18 by day, and 18-16 at night.
Prepare a planting container. It is more convenient to sow the seeds in a general wide and low container (box, container). The optimal height is about 7-8 cm, no more. Make sure there are drainage holes in the bottom of the container.
Put a 1.5 cm thick drainage layer at the bottom (perlite, fine claydite or crushed bricks are excellent).
Fill the container with soil, make sure the soil is even and moisten it liberally with a sprayer.
Sow the forget-me-not seeds. Sow them superficially (i.e. they do not need to be covered with earth), trying to distribute them evenly over the surface (preferably leaving a gap of approx. 1 cm).
Cover the container with a lid or film to create a mini-greenhouse.
The seeds should be given the right conditions to germinate immediately after sowing: they should be in greenhouse conditions, i.e. high humidity and warmth. The pot should therefore always be covered with a lid and cling film. However, it is advisable to let the mini-greenhouse air out for just 20-40 minutes every day.
When you see sprouts of forget-me-nots, you need to remove the cover and move the plants to the lightest window sill (preferably south, or at least south-east, south-west).
One of the main conditions for strong seedlings - a competent temperature regime, which varies depending on the stage of development of seedlings: immediately after sowing and before the appearance of seedlings on the ground the optimal temperature is 24-26 degrees, not below; after germination of seedlings the temperature for 7 days is reduced to 18-16 degrees (such reduction will help avoid pulling); 7 days after emergence of seedlings should increase t to 20-18 by day, and 18-16 at night.
You can sow the seeds directly into the ground in May or early June and cover them with clingfilm until they sprout so that they can germinate quickly; they will then flower in June and July. If sown uncovered, flowering will of course occur later.
Alternatively, you can also use annuals as seedlings. To do this in March-April, seeds are sown in containers with suitable moistened soil. Place the seeds in a common dish away from each other (at least 5 cm), or better yet, sow them in separate cups or cassettes at once. Because of the sensitive root system, seedling picking is undesirable.
The seeds should be sown to a maximum depth of 1 cm. The seeds are moistened with a sprayer and covered with transparent material (film or glass) until they sprout.
Place in a warm and sufficiently light place. If necessary, provide additional light if the seedlings begin to stretch.
Before planting the seedlings in the open air, they should be hardened by taking them out into the fresh air every day and gradually increasing the amount of time they spend outdoors.
Place the seedlings in the flower bed at a distance of 20-25 cm.
From the beginning of June, you will already be able to admire the delicate blossoms.
Alternatively, you can also use annuals as seedlings. To do this in March-April, seeds are sown in containers with suitable moistened soil. Place the seeds in a common dish away from each other (at least 5 cm), or better yet, sow them in separate cups or cassettes at once. Because of the sensitive root system, seedling picking is undesirable.
The seeds should be sown to a maximum depth of 1 cm. The seeds are moistened with a sprayer and covered with transparent material (film or glass) until they sprout.
Place in a warm and sufficiently light place. If necessary, provide additional light if the seedlings begin to stretch.
Before planting the seedlings in the open air, they should be hardened by taking them out into the fresh air every day and gradually increasing the amount of time they spend outdoors.
Place the seedlings in the flower bed at a distance of 20-25 cm.
From the beginning of June, you will already be able to admire the delicate blossoms.
Nigella seedlings are sown in March/April in the greenhouse to a depth of 2 cm. The seedlings will usually emerge by the end of the second or third week. The seedlings will be released into peat-mulch pots when the first couple of true leaves develop, so that they can be transplanted directly into the bed when the time comes. Nigella planting When to plant The nigella seedlings will grow very quickly and can be transplanted to the open bed in May. The place for the nigella should be open and sunny, as the plant develops poorly in the shade. Incidentally, nigella plants do not like near ground covers so take this into account when deciding where to plant it. Friable, dry, light but nutritious, calcareous or neutral soils are preferred. On acidic soils, as well as in the shade, it will not grow well.
Fine pyrethrum seeds should be mixed with sand before sowing them. Sow them in early March, about 3-5 mm deep, but it is more convenient to spread them over the surface and then cover them with substrate and then moisten the surface with a fine mist sprayer. Cover the seedlings with glass or film and keep them in a light place at 18-20 ºC. As soon as the seedlings appear, remove the cover. Once the seedlings have developed two full leaves, they can be picked into their own cups or pots. The seedlings will be planted in a permanent location after a two-week hardening period. In southern areas, the pyrethrum flower can be cultivated as a seedless plant by sowing the seeds directly into the soil in early September.
Growing leucocum sprouts at home will be more successful if the seeds are briefly wet stratified. For this purpose, the seeds are poured into cold water for 1 day. Afterwards, drain the water, wrap the swollen seeds in any damp cloth and place them in the refrigerator, but not in the freezer, for 2-3 days. The seeds can then be planted. There are no specific time requirements, just assume that flowering will occur 60-70 days later. Sprouts appear quite quickly, within a week, and seedlings can be planted in the open field early, as leucocum is not afraid of frosts. The usual time for planting is early March, at most mid-month. There is no point in sowing seedlings later, as they can already be sown directly to the bed in April.
The seeds can be sown into the bed without submerging; in any case, the topsoil should not be more than 0.5 cm deep. The container should be covered with transparent material (glass, polyethylene) and placed in a warm, light place, but not in the sun. As soon as sprouts appear, remove the cover and move the box to a cool, bright place (preferably +15C or even lower). The soil should be kept moderately moist and not watered too quickly. The care will be the same as for any seedling.
The seeds can be sown into the bed without submerging; in any case, the topsoil should not be more than 0.5 cm deep. The container should be covered with transparent material (glass, polyethylene) and placed in a warm, light place, but not in the sun. As soon as sprouts appear, remove the cover and move the box to a cool, bright place (preferably +15C or even lower). The soil should be kept moderately moist and not watered too quickly. The care will be the same as for any seedling.
The seeds are sown sparsely, trying to place them at a depth of about three millimetres (preferably with a substrate that is not only light but also loose enough), and the optimum temperature for their germination is considered to be between fifteen and twenty-one degrees.
For planting, this usually takes place in late May or June, with a distance of twenty to twenty-five centimetres between the plants.
After planting and during dry spells, the Lonas requires moderate watering (normally it requires sufficient moisture from dew or rainfall) and it is also recommended to fertilise with nitrogen compounds or fertiliser once or twice at the start of its growth. It is also worth introducing organic matter such as compost, humus and so on.
Another big advantage of the vine is that it almost never gets infested by pests or diseases, which means growers don't have to worry about having to deal with the next pest from time to time.
For planting, this usually takes place in late May or June, with a distance of twenty to twenty-five centimetres between the plants.
After planting and during dry spells, the Lonas requires moderate watering (normally it requires sufficient moisture from dew or rainfall) and it is also recommended to fertilise with nitrogen compounds or fertiliser once or twice at the start of its growth. It is also worth introducing organic matter such as compost, humus and so on.
Another big advantage of the vine is that it almost never gets infested by pests or diseases, which means growers don't have to worry about having to deal with the next pest from time to time.
Seeds can be planted during March/April if the weather forecasts are positive and indicate that May will be warm to begin with.
Earlier sowing is also possible, but in this case, dahlias will need to be supplemented with a UV lamp to avoid loss of seedlings.
Step-by-step instructions for sowing the seeds: Place the seeds directly on the surface of the substrate, leaving three to four centimetres between them and then spray them gently with a sprayer. The dahlia seeds do not need to be embedded or buried, just covered with a thin layer of soil. The container is then covered with clear plexiglass or covered with plastic wrap. Put the container with the seeds on a window sill or other place where there is maximum sunlight. At a temperature of about 24-25 degrees, you can expect the first greens to sprout in five to six days.
Earlier sowing is also possible, but in this case, dahlias will need to be supplemented with a UV lamp to avoid loss of seedlings.
Step-by-step instructions for sowing the seeds: Place the seeds directly on the surface of the substrate, leaving three to four centimetres between them and then spray them gently with a sprayer. The dahlia seeds do not need to be embedded or buried, just covered with a thin layer of soil. The container is then covered with clear plexiglass or covered with plastic wrap. Put the container with the seeds on a window sill or other place where there is maximum sunlight. At a temperature of about 24-25 degrees, you can expect the first greens to sprout in five to six days.
Prepare the planting containers, make drainage holes if necessary and fill them with a drainage layer.
Fill each container with loose, light soil and level the surface. Leave a small gap to the edges.
Put 2-3 seeds in the centre of the cup/pot.
Sprinkle a very thin layer of sand (literally 1 millimetre!).
Moisten the surface of the soil liberally with a fine sprayer, the water should be warm.
Cover each cup with food film or a lid.
Taking care of seedlings of Iberis at home is quite easy. Providing the plants with favourable conditions will make it easy to grow strong seedlings.
Fill each container with loose, light soil and level the surface. Leave a small gap to the edges.
Put 2-3 seeds in the centre of the cup/pot.
Sprinkle a very thin layer of sand (literally 1 millimetre!).
Moisten the surface of the soil liberally with a fine sprayer, the water should be warm.
Cover each cup with food film or a lid.
Taking care of seedlings of Iberis at home is quite easy. Providing the plants with favourable conditions will make it easy to grow strong seedlings.
Step 1: Prepare the soil mixture; loose, light, nutritious soil is recommended. This means that the soil should not be clayey, heavy or dense. The crop can be planted in universal flower sprouts (it is better to add 1 part sand or perlite/vermiculite to 3 parts of this soil).
Step 2: Prepare the propagation containers and since the rocket is not easily transplantable, it is very important to immediately sow the seeds in individual containers (cups, pots) so that you don't have to make any picking. The optimal volume of containers is 300-400 ml. Make sure that there are drainage holes in the bottom of the container.
Step 3: Prepare the seeds. The seeds of morning glory have a thick, compact seed coat and should be prepared before sowing - soak them in warm water (24 hours) or in a growth stimulator (such as Zircon or similar) to enable them to germinate more quickly.
Step 4: Make good drainage. A layer of drainage should be placed at the bottom of each cup to prevent dangerously stagnant moisture. You can, for example, put perlite, crushed bricks or expanded clay. The thickness of the layer is 1.5 - 2 cm.
Step 5: Fill each cup with soil. The soil should be placed evenly so that there are no voids.
Step 6: Make a hole in the centre of the cup, 0.5-1 cm deep and no more.
Step 7: Sow the morning glory into the hole, then cover the hole with 5-10 mm of soil.
Step 8: Moisten the soil with the seeds generously. Use a sprayer to water. The water should be warm and clean.
Step 9: Now cover the cups with lids or cling film and place them in a warm room.
Step 2: Prepare the propagation containers and since the rocket is not easily transplantable, it is very important to immediately sow the seeds in individual containers (cups, pots) so that you don't have to make any picking. The optimal volume of containers is 300-400 ml. Make sure that there are drainage holes in the bottom of the container.
Step 3: Prepare the seeds. The seeds of morning glory have a thick, compact seed coat and should be prepared before sowing - soak them in warm water (24 hours) or in a growth stimulator (such as Zircon or similar) to enable them to germinate more quickly.
Step 4: Make good drainage. A layer of drainage should be placed at the bottom of each cup to prevent dangerously stagnant moisture. You can, for example, put perlite, crushed bricks or expanded clay. The thickness of the layer is 1.5 - 2 cm.
Step 5: Fill each cup with soil. The soil should be placed evenly so that there are no voids.
Step 6: Make a hole in the centre of the cup, 0.5-1 cm deep and no more.
Step 7: Sow the morning glory into the hole, then cover the hole with 5-10 mm of soil.
Step 8: Moisten the soil with the seeds generously. Use a sprayer to water. The water should be warm and clean.
Step 9: Now cover the cups with lids or cling film and place them in a warm room.
For faster germination, soak the seeds for a day before sowing, changing the water several times. Waxwort can be grown either as a seedling (sown in pots in April) or by direct sowing in the ground (in May, possibly under a plastic sheet). Sprouts appear in 5-7 days and look very much like pea seedlings. The waxwing plant tolerates transplanting well at an early age until it begins to branch.
To obtain seedlings, start seed breeding in February. The seeds are lowered into the soil by 1-1.5 cm. The distance from one seedpot to the next should be at least 5 cm. The germination process takes about 1.5 to 2 weeks. A seedling will produce two sprouts each.
The seedlings should be provided with good light and periodic watering. The temperature regime for the development is maintained between 15 and +20°C. After a couple of weeks it can be transplanted to the garden plot. The distance between the seedlings should be approximately 25 cm. The optimum time for transplanting outdoors is the end of April. The crop will flower in mid-summer.
To obtain seedlings, start seed breeding in February. The seeds are lowered into the soil by 1-1.5 cm. The distance from one seedpot to the next should be at least 5 cm. The germination process takes about 1.5 to 2 weeks. A seedling will produce two sprouts each.
The seedlings should be provided with good light and periodic watering. The temperature regime for the development is maintained between 15 and +20°C. After a couple of weeks it can be transplanted to the garden plot. The distance between the seedlings should be approximately 25 cm. The optimum time for transplanting outdoors is the end of April. The crop will flower in mid-summer.
Sow the seedlings in early April. A week before sowing, wrap the aster seeds in a cloth and soak them in a weak solution of manganese. After 10-12 hours, squeeze the cloth from the excess moisture, place it in a plastic bag and place it in a warm place for germination. Crates or pots can be used as a container to grow asters for seedlings.
The soil for asters should be light and fertile and must be watered with a fungicide solution before planting. Drop the seeds which have already germinated into the furrows made in the ground, cover them with a 0.5 cm layer of sand, moisten with a weak manganese solution through a fine sieve, then put them in a warm place (20-22 ºC) and cover with glass or plastic film. If you have sown seeds from the previous year, you can expect them to sprout in 3-5 days. After sprouting, move the containers to a cooler room at about 16ºC. Prick the seedlings in a 4x4 cm pattern when they have 3-4 true leaves. When picking, shorten the roots of the seedlings. Add ash to the potting soil and water the seedlings in moderation.
The soil for asters should be light and fertile and must be watered with a fungicide solution before planting. Drop the seeds which have already germinated into the furrows made in the ground, cover them with a 0.5 cm layer of sand, moisten with a weak manganese solution through a fine sieve, then put them in a warm place (20-22 ºC) and cover with glass or plastic film. If you have sown seeds from the previous year, you can expect them to sprout in 3-5 days. After sprouting, move the containers to a cooler room at about 16ºC. Prick the seedlings in a 4x4 cm pattern when they have 3-4 true leaves. When picking, shorten the roots of the seedlings. Add ash to the potting soil and water the seedlings in moderation.
Planting cornflowers as seedlings ensures good establishment and a quick adaptation of the ornamental plant in a permanent location. When choosing when to sprout cornflowers, it is best to choose April - the soil has already warmed up sufficiently and the risk of frost returns is considerably reduced. Fill plastic containers or pots with nutritious ornamental soil and tamp it down lightly. Make small holes in the soil up to 2 cm deep and moisten well.
Place the cornflower seeds in the holes and lightly bury them in the potting soil, but do not tamp them down. Cover the container with plastic wrap and place it in a warm place at a temperature not lower than +21 °C. After the first green shoots have appeared, the cover can be removed.
Place the cornflower seeds in the holes and lightly bury them in the potting soil, but do not tamp them down. Cover the container with plastic wrap and place it in a warm place at a temperature not lower than +21 °C. After the first green shoots have appeared, the cover can be removed.
The seedlings are sown from mid-March.
A multipurpose mix for flowering plants is sufficient for filling the container for sowing.
The seeds should be spread as evenly as possible over the entire soil surface. And lightly press a few millimetres into the soil.
After sowing, moisten the soil with a water sprayer.
Next, create a greenhouse effect - cover the container with foil or glass.
It is advisable to store the seeds in diffused but bright light and at a temperature of around +25 degrees.
Remember to air the container for about 10 minutes every day, at the same time you can moisten the soil with a sprinkler, if it has time to dry out.
As soon as the first shoots appear, remove the greenhouse.
Water the shoots a little more, but in moderation.
Planting out into the open ground takes place from mid-May. Two weeks before this, start exposing the seedlings to the outdoors for a day - this will harden them.
A multipurpose mix for flowering plants is sufficient for filling the container for sowing.
The seeds should be spread as evenly as possible over the entire soil surface. And lightly press a few millimetres into the soil.
After sowing, moisten the soil with a water sprayer.
Next, create a greenhouse effect - cover the container with foil or glass.
It is advisable to store the seeds in diffused but bright light and at a temperature of around +25 degrees.
Remember to air the container for about 10 minutes every day, at the same time you can moisten the soil with a sprinkler, if it has time to dry out.
As soon as the first shoots appear, remove the greenhouse.
Water the shoots a little more, but in moderation.
Planting out into the open ground takes place from mid-May. Two weeks before this, start exposing the seedlings to the outdoors for a day - this will harden them.
Before planting seeds in the ground, they are initially germinated at home. To do this, take a towel (preferably paper) and moisten until wet. Then visually divide it in half, put seeds on one part, and cover the second. All this is placed in a plastic bag, which is stored in a warm room at t more than +10 ° C, periodically checked for sprouts and at the same time monitor the humidity of the towel. The growth period is 2 days. If the seed has not germinated within 3 days, then using tweezers, remove the edge from the seed and leave it for a while. However, you can do without germination by simply lowering them into the ground, but the probability of germination will be much lower. Before planting in the ground, the seeds, in order to avoid being eaten, are treated with a special anti-rodent agent, prepared by hand or purchased.
Planting sunflower seeds in open ground:
Sowing begins in mid-May. To do this, with the help of a hoe in the chosen place, holes are made 3-4 cm deep with an interval of 15 cm, but it can be longer, because the greater the distance between the seedlings, the wider the hats will grow. 2-3 grains are lowered into the holes and covered with soil, and the soil must be moistened.
Planting sunflower seeds in open ground:
Sowing begins in mid-May. To do this, with the help of a hoe in the chosen place, holes are made 3-4 cm deep with an interval of 15 cm, but it can be longer, because the greater the distance between the seedlings, the wider the hats will grow. 2-3 grains are lowered into the holes and covered with soil, and the soil must be moistened.
Soap seeds are sown in mid-March in small containers filled with a moist, loose substrate, sprinkled with a thin layer of sand on top, moisten it with a spray bottle, cover the crops with a film and, while waiting for seedlings, are placed under bright diffused light. The room temperature must be at least 20 ˚C. When shoots appear, the film is removed from the crops. Soap seedlings do not require special care: they must be protected from drafts and direct sunlight, watered from time to time and carefully loosened the soil around the seedlings. When the seedlings develop two pairs of true leaves, they are seated in separate containers.
Bindweed seeds are sown for seedlings in March, having previously kept them in water for a day. They are laid out in separate cups with drainage holes for the outflow of excess water, filled with moist compost soil or soil mixture, consisting of one part of peat and two parts of fertile soil. Sprinkle the seeds on top with loose soil and lightly press it with your hands. Do not sow bindweed in a common box, because it does not tolerate a pick. Contain crops at a temperature of 18-20 ºC, watering regularly, and after two weeks, shoots can be expected. Bindweed seedlings need to moisten the soil as it dries and to fertilize with a solution of mineral fertilizer in a weak concentration every two weeks. As soon as warm weather sets in and the threat of return frosts has passed, bindweed seedlings are planted in the ground after preliminary hardening. Usually the necessary conditions arise in mid-May, although there are years when bindweed seedlings are planted in the first decade of June.
Lychnis, propagated by seeds, is sown in open ground before winter or early spring. In any case, you will see the first flowering in a year, except that when planted before winter and the weather is favorable, the lychnis will bloom in the summer, and even then not at full strength. If you want to see flowering already this year, you will have to sow lychnis seeds for seedlings in March, having previously subjected them to stratification in the refrigerator for 2-4 weeks. Crops are kept at a temperature of 18-20 ºC, seedlings may appear in a few weeks, and lychnis from seeds will be ready for planting in open ground by the end of May after a two-week hardening.
Technology for growing decorative sunflowers from seeds in open ground:
- Seeds must be soaked overnight before planting. This is done to speed up the germination process.
- In the prepared soil, make holes 4-5 cm deep.
- Sow 2-3 seeds in each hole, slightly deepening them into the soil.
- It is important to adhere to the planting pattern of 70x70 cm (the distance between holes and rows should not be less).
- After sowing, the bed should be rolled a little and watered.
Sunflower seeds germinate 7-10 days after sowing. Further, the extra shoots must be removed, leaving the strongest of two or three shoots.
Growing an ornamental sunflower from seedlings:
It is also possible to grow a decorative helianthus with the help of seedlings. This will protect early shoots from unexpected frosts, which is very important, since the sunflower is not a frost-resistant plant. To get sunflower seedlings, you need to take the following steps:
In peat cups filled with a substrate for germinating seedlings or garden soil with humus, 1-2 seeds are sown to a depth of 4-5 cm. Next, the crops must be watered and covered with a film or glass to save moisture, and then cleaned in a warm place until germination.
After the seeds germinate, the sprouts require additional lighting in order for them to grow stronger. With a lack of lighting, seedlings will stretch and bend.
The soil needs to be watered regularly to keep it slightly moist, but it is important to avoid stagnant water. There is nothing difficult in obtaining sunflower seedlings. Seeds should be sown 25-30 days before the intended transplantation of seedlings in open ground.
- Seeds must be soaked overnight before planting. This is done to speed up the germination process.
- In the prepared soil, make holes 4-5 cm deep.
- Sow 2-3 seeds in each hole, slightly deepening them into the soil.
- It is important to adhere to the planting pattern of 70x70 cm (the distance between holes and rows should not be less).
- After sowing, the bed should be rolled a little and watered.
Sunflower seeds germinate 7-10 days after sowing. Further, the extra shoots must be removed, leaving the strongest of two or three shoots.
Growing an ornamental sunflower from seedlings:
It is also possible to grow a decorative helianthus with the help of seedlings. This will protect early shoots from unexpected frosts, which is very important, since the sunflower is not a frost-resistant plant. To get sunflower seedlings, you need to take the following steps:
In peat cups filled with a substrate for germinating seedlings or garden soil with humus, 1-2 seeds are sown to a depth of 4-5 cm. Next, the crops must be watered and covered with a film or glass to save moisture, and then cleaned in a warm place until germination.
After the seeds germinate, the sprouts require additional lighting in order for them to grow stronger. With a lack of lighting, seedlings will stretch and bend.
The soil needs to be watered regularly to keep it slightly moist, but it is important to avoid stagnant water. There is nothing difficult in obtaining sunflower seedlings. Seeds should be sown 25-30 days before the intended transplantation of seedlings in open ground.
Seed preparation includes several stages:
Soak:
The use of potassium permanganate or special processing agents provides protection against possible bacterial or fungal infections.
Cold treatment:
Keeping in the refrigerator increases the protective qualities of the seed material.
Sowing:
After preparing the seeds, starting from mid-March, seedlings are being prepared for planting. To do this, purchase special containers or individual cups, which are filled with earth. Flower growers are advised to purchase a special soil intended for flower seedlings.
Before sowing, the soil is abundantly moistened, the seeds are laid out and, without covering with earth, the containers are covered with film material. This contributes to the creation of a greenhouse effect, when optimal conditions are created for germination.
Seedling care:
Crops are harvested in a room where the temperature is kept in the range from + 18 to + 22 °. Until the seeds have sprouted, the containers with plantings are ventilated twice a day and sprayed from a spray bottle. In addition, condensation must be removed from the surface of the film so that the environment in which the sprouts form is not excessively humid. Otherwise, this will lead to a weakening of the protective forces of plants.
Soak:
The use of potassium permanganate or special processing agents provides protection against possible bacterial or fungal infections.
Cold treatment:
Keeping in the refrigerator increases the protective qualities of the seed material.
Sowing:
After preparing the seeds, starting from mid-March, seedlings are being prepared for planting. To do this, purchase special containers or individual cups, which are filled with earth. Flower growers are advised to purchase a special soil intended for flower seedlings.
Before sowing, the soil is abundantly moistened, the seeds are laid out and, without covering with earth, the containers are covered with film material. This contributes to the creation of a greenhouse effect, when optimal conditions are created for germination.
Seedling care:
Crops are harvested in a room where the temperature is kept in the range from + 18 to + 22 °. Until the seeds have sprouted, the containers with plantings are ventilated twice a day and sprayed from a spray bottle. In addition, condensation must be removed from the surface of the film so that the environment in which the sprouts form is not excessively humid. Otherwise, this will lead to a weakening of the protective forces of plants.
Leptosiphon can be sown on seedlings in early spring - in April-late May. But it is better to sow the seeds not in the ground, but in wet sand, scattering the seeds over its surface.
The air temperature in the room must be at least +20 °С. In this case, it is necessary to create greenhouse conditions: cover the container with seeds with a film or glass. If such conditions are created, then the first shoots will not have to wait long. When the first 3-4 true leaves appear on the seedlings, dive the plants into separate containers, and at the end of May, transplant all young plants into open ground.
The air temperature in the room must be at least +20 °С. In this case, it is necessary to create greenhouse conditions: cover the container with seeds with a film or glass. If such conditions are created, then the first shoots will not have to wait long. When the first 3-4 true leaves appear on the seedlings, dive the plants into separate containers, and at the end of May, transplant all young plants into open ground.
Seeds are sown either in autumn after harvest or in spring. It is noticed that during the autumn sowing shoots are usually more friendly. Before sowing the seeds, the soil must be dug up to a depth of 20 cm. Depending on the height of the variety, the seeds are sown at a distance of 25 to 40 cm. The higher the flower, the farther from the others it must be planted. In autumn, the seeds are sown directly into the ground. Scatter the seeds on the surface of the finished bed. Slightly press them into the soil and moisten. You don't need to dig them deep. Sprouts will appear in the spring, after the snow melts. Flowering occurs in the second year.
When planting in the spring, seedlings are grown first to speed up the emergence of seedlings. Seeds require wet cold stratification for a month, and after sowing they are placed in a place with good diffused lighting at a temperature of about 18 degrees. It is necessary to prevent the soil from drying out, maintaining its moisture by spraying. When 2 - 3 full-fledged leaves appear, the seedlings are transplanted into separate pots. Landing in open ground is carried out in late April or early May. The seeds remain viable for about a year after harvest, if you have stored the seeds longer than the prescribed period, you can try rubbing them with sandpaper and treating them with a growth stimulator before planting.
When planting in the spring, seedlings are grown first to speed up the emergence of seedlings. Seeds require wet cold stratification for a month, and after sowing they are placed in a place with good diffused lighting at a temperature of about 18 degrees. It is necessary to prevent the soil from drying out, maintaining its moisture by spraying. When 2 - 3 full-fledged leaves appear, the seedlings are transplanted into separate pots. Landing in open ground is carried out in late April or early May. The seeds remain viable for about a year after harvest, if you have stored the seeds longer than the prescribed period, you can try rubbing them with sandpaper and treating them with a growth stimulator before planting.
Sowing of seeds is carried out in the middle of spring on a warmed bed or greenhouses, in containers on the windowsill.
Care should be taken that the seeds are sown not densely, between rows of 10 cm, in a row of 3-4.
If you sow in cups, put 2-3 seeds and sprinkle with earth.
Keep it moist but not waterlogged.
When seedlings appear, thin them out, leaving a distance of 4-5 cm between sprouts.
Make sure that the earth does not dry out, but do not flood.
Amberboa seedlings need to be hardened, taken out in the sun for an hour or two, and then for the whole day.
When 4-5 true leaves appear, seedlings can be planted in the ground.
Care should be taken that the seeds are sown not densely, between rows of 10 cm, in a row of 3-4.
If you sow in cups, put 2-3 seeds and sprinkle with earth.
Keep it moist but not waterlogged.
When seedlings appear, thin them out, leaving a distance of 4-5 cm between sprouts.
Make sure that the earth does not dry out, but do not flood.
Amberboa seedlings need to be hardened, taken out in the sun for an hour or two, and then for the whole day.
When 4-5 true leaves appear, seedlings can be planted in the ground.
Cultivation of sweet peas begins with its sowing for seedlings in mid-March. Before sowing, tight seeds of sweet peas should be soaked in water for 10-12 hours or kept in a fifty-degree solution of the Bud preparation (1-2 g per 1 liter of water). Then, within 2-4 days, they are germinated in gauze, wet sand or sawdust at a temperature of 20-24 ºC. As soon as sweet pea seeds have hatched, they should be sown immediately. As a substrate, shop soils of Saintpaulia, Rose or a mixture of humus, peat and soddy soil in a ratio of 2: 2: 2: 1 are best suited. Any of these substrates must be disinfected with a strong solution of potassium permanganate, and it is better to use cups or pots as dishes for growing seedlings. Sowing is carried out in a moist substrate to a depth of not more than 2-3 cm, laying out 2-3 seeds in each cup. If you sow peas in a common box, then the distance between the seeds should be about 8 cm. After sowing, the substrate is watered, the containers are covered with foil and kept on a sunny windowsill at a temperature of 18-22 ºC.
Sowing hylia is best done in open ground. Hylia is usually planted in early spring (May) or autumn, but under cover. A plant from the order "threw the seeds into the ground and forgot."
When sown in autumn, seedlings appear in early spring. When spring sowing in 1.5 weeks. With the formation of two true leaves on the seedlings, it is necessary to thin out. The distance between plants should be about 20 cm. Gilia is not demanding in care. The soil is better suited nutritious, neutral and loose. The location is sunny, light partial shade is possible. Does not tolerate moisture stagnation. Watering as the soil dries up.
When sown in autumn, seedlings appear in early spring. When spring sowing in 1.5 weeks. With the formation of two true leaves on the seedlings, it is necessary to thin out. The distance between plants should be about 20 cm. Gilia is not demanding in care. The soil is better suited nutritious, neutral and loose. The location is sunny, light partial shade is possible. Does not tolerate moisture stagnation. Watering as the soil dries up.
Sowing is carried out either in the spring (in May) or before winter. For seedlings, jaundice is sown according to the standard technique, slightly covering with soil and necessarily protecting the crops with glass or film. Seeds will germinate at a temperature of about +1 degrees, the process of germination itself takes a little more than 1 week. Seedlings in the soil are thinned out, leaving a distance of 15-20 cm between plants. Seedlings dive when the second pair of true leaves appear in individual containers or large containers with the same distance between shoots. They are transferred to open soil in May-June. On average, annual jaundices bloom 2 months after sowing the seeds.
March or April. The light-sensitive seeds of cosmea sown on the top of the substrate are slightly pressed into the soil, without sprinkling, moisten and cover the sowing with a film or glass. The seed container is kept in a bright place. If the temperature for seed germination is between 18-20 ºC, sprouts will appear in a week or two. Thick seedlings need to be thinned out so that the distance between the seedlings is 10-15 cm, for this purpose a pick can be made. Picked seedlings are grown at a lower temperature - 16-18 ºC. If you do not want to bother with picking seedlings, you can immediately sow two or three seeds in separate cups.
The sooner you sow marigolds for seedlings (even in early spring), the faster they will bloom. Growing seedlings of marigolds is a simple process, but there are moments that should not be missed. Prepare a mixture of soil: humus, peat, turf, sand (1; 1; 1; 0.5) and disinfect by spilling a fungicide disinfectant solution or a dark pink solution of potassium permanganate. Make sure that at the bottom of the container there is a drainage layer of crushed stone, sand or expanded clay 3 cm high, apply fertilizer to the soil (any organic matter, except for fresh manure). At a distance of 1.5-2 cm from each other, make grooves, spread the seeds in them and sprinkle with a small layer of soil. You need to water very carefully so that the water does not wash the seeds out of the soil. The containers are kept in a warm place (22-25 ºC) and make sure that the soil does not dry out. Sprouts should appear no later than a week later, then the container should be moved to the light and the temperature should be slightly lowered (15-18 ºC).
Sowing of coreopsis for seedlings is carried out in early March: the seeds are evenly spread over the surface of moist nutritious garden soil placed in shallow containers, pressed against the ground with a plank, covered with foil and placed for germination in a warm, bright place. Seedling care Every day, crops should be ventilated, removing condensation from the film. Seed germination of this flower crop is very high. Coreopsis from seeds will begin to germinate in ten days, and as soon as this process becomes widespread, the cover can be removed from the container. Seedling care consists in watering and carefully loosening the substrate around the seedlings. At the stage of development of the seedlings of the first pair of true leaves, they dive into separate cups. If picking is done in a box, keep a step of 2 cm between seedlings and keep in mind that the seedlings will have to dive one more time when the seedlings grow to 10-12 cm.
The easiest way is to sow seeds in open ground in April or before winter in October. In spring, the time to sow comes when the earth warms up enough and dries out after the snow melts: firmly squeeze a handful of garden soil in your hands and then throw this lump on the ground from about a meter high, and if it breaks up easily, then it's time to sow calendula. A couple of weeks before planting, the soil on the site is dug up with humus at the rate of 3-4 kg per m², adding 20 g of superphosphate and potassium chloride, as well as 30 g of urea, to the same area unit. Marigold seeds are sown in the ground to a depth of 1-2 cm with an interval of 25-30 cm from each other, and the distance between the rows is left about 60-70 cm if you grow calendula because of its decorative qualities, but if you need calendula as medicine, then the interval between rows may be less - 30-40 cm. In this case, the distance between the seeds in a row can be reduced to 7-10 cm. after a week) they are thinned out in such a way that intervals of 25-35 cm are eventually formed between the seedlings. Calendula blooms about 10 weeks after sowing seeds in open ground.
Sowing calendula for seedlings:
In order for the calendula to bloom early, it is grown in seedlings. Low-growing varieties of calendula are also better to grow seedlings. Seeds for seedlings are sown in late March or early April in a common container or in separate cups with flower soil to a shallow depth - no more than 2 cm. The containers with crops are covered with a film and kept at a temperature of 18-20 ºC in light, but protected from direct sun. place. When shoots appear (usually this happens after 6-8 days), the film is removed and the temperature is lowered to 14-15 ºC. Caring for the calendula flower at this stage consists in watering the soil and feeding the seedlings with a weak solution of complex mineral fertilizer once a decade or two weeks. At the stage of development of seedlings of two true leaves, seedlings dive at a distance of 5 cm between specimens or plant them in separate cups. When the seedlings develop 5-6 true leaves, the calendula flower is planted in open ground - this usually happens in mid-May. However, despite the fact that the calendula plant is cold-resistant and calmly withstands nighttime spring frosts, it is still necessary to carry out hardening procedures with seedlings before planting. To do this, boxes or cups are taken out daily for a short time to the balcony or covered terrace for a week.
Sowing calendula for seedlings:
In order for the calendula to bloom early, it is grown in seedlings. Low-growing varieties of calendula are also better to grow seedlings. Seeds for seedlings are sown in late March or early April in a common container or in separate cups with flower soil to a shallow depth - no more than 2 cm. The containers with crops are covered with a film and kept at a temperature of 18-20 ºC in light, but protected from direct sun. place. When shoots appear (usually this happens after 6-8 days), the film is removed and the temperature is lowered to 14-15 ºC. Caring for the calendula flower at this stage consists in watering the soil and feeding the seedlings with a weak solution of complex mineral fertilizer once a decade or two weeks. At the stage of development of seedlings of two true leaves, seedlings dive at a distance of 5 cm between specimens or plant them in separate cups. When the seedlings develop 5-6 true leaves, the calendula flower is planted in open ground - this usually happens in mid-May. However, despite the fact that the calendula plant is cold-resistant and calmly withstands nighttime spring frosts, it is still necessary to carry out hardening procedures with seedlings before planting. To do this, boxes or cups are taken out daily for a short time to the balcony or covered terrace for a week.
Growing chamomile is possible in seedling and seedless way. You can sow garden chamomile seeds simply in the ground, but it is more reliable to use the seedling method. Chamomile seeds are sown for seedlings in March. Trays with cells are filled with a moist, light, breathable substrate, consisting of peat and sand in equal parts, 2-3 seeds are laid out in each cell, sprinkled on top with a thin layer of the substrate, cover the container with a transparent film and placed near the window, but not on window sill, as the light passing through the glass is too intense and can damage the seed germination process. Monitor the condition of the soil, and as soon as it dries, moisten it with a spray bottle. When shoots begin to appear, and at normal room temperature this will happen in a week and a half to two weeks, remove the film and place the container as close as possible to a sunny window, protecting the seedlings from drafts. If this is not possible for any reason, place a fluorescent lamp over the container, which must be on for at least 14 hours a day. As soon as the chamomile seedlings reach a height of 5 cm, leave only one, the most developed seedling, in each cell. Do not pull out unnecessary seedlings, but carefully pinch them off the ground, because you risk damaging the root system of the remaining seedling. In order for the chamomile to grow, pinch it over 3-4 leaves. Seedlings are planted in the ground at the age of 4-6 weeks, when all possible frosts have passed. Garden chamomile loves sunny areas with calcareous or neutral soil and deep groundwater.
Large nasturtium seeds are sown directly into the open ground in mid or late May, when the last frosts have passed. In holes up to two centimeters deep, located at a distance of 25-30 cm from each other, nasturtium seeds are placed in a nested way - 3-4 pieces per hole. If there is a possibility of nighttime drops in temperature, cover the seeded area with plastic wrap or other covering material and use only warm water for irrigation. Seedlings will appear in a week or two.
Carry out the cultivation of nasturtium and seedling method, which allows you to achieve earlier flowering than in the case of sowing seeds directly into the ground. To do this, use peat cups or cups with a retractable bottom, in which in April-May seeds are sown 2-3 pieces to a depth of 2 cm. The temperature in the room with seedlings should be 20-22 ºC. Shoots will appear in a couple of weeks. The root system of nasturtium is weak, and the leaf surface is quite large, therefore, in order not to injure the roots, the seedlings are not dived and transplanted into the soil along with an earthen clod, right in a cup.
Carry out the cultivation of nasturtium and seedling method, which allows you to achieve earlier flowering than in the case of sowing seeds directly into the ground. To do this, use peat cups or cups with a retractable bottom, in which in April-May seeds are sown 2-3 pieces to a depth of 2 cm. The temperature in the room with seedlings should be 20-22 ºC. Shoots will appear in a couple of weeks. The root system of nasturtium is weak, and the leaf surface is quite large, therefore, in order not to injure the roots, the seedlings are not dived and transplanted into the soil along with an earthen clod, right in a cup.
Before germination, you need to soak the seeds for two days in warm water so that the shell becomes softer. Now we take convenient containers, fill them with vermiculite (or calcined river sand), moisten (but not much) and not very deeply immerse the seeds in them for 30-35 days. These containers should be in a dry and dark room, where it is always warm. You can place them on a radiator, for example (or on an electric heating pad with temperature control). During the whole time, the air temperature near the containers should be approximately +30°C during the day, with the onset of night it should be reduced to +15°C. Vermiculite or sand must be constantly kept moist, which can be easily maintained with a spray bottle.
When the seeds have small roots, then they should then carry out the so-called cold stratification. To do this, they take other containers, fill them with earth mixture containing peat and / or humus, carefully transplant the hatched seeds into them along with the roots. During this period, the air temperature in the room with containers should be approximately +5 (7)..+10°C.
Now you have to be patient and wait for the first leaves to appear, after which the air temperature should be increased to +18..+20°C. You should not forget about periodic irrigation, and growth stimulants can sometimes be added to the water. Young growth is transferred to a permanent place of residence in the second half of August.
When the seeds have small roots, then they should then carry out the so-called cold stratification. To do this, they take other containers, fill them with earth mixture containing peat and / or humus, carefully transplant the hatched seeds into them along with the roots. During this period, the air temperature in the room with containers should be approximately +5 (7)..+10°C.
Now you have to be patient and wait for the first leaves to appear, after which the air temperature should be increased to +18..+20°C. You should not forget about periodic irrigation, and growth stimulants can sometimes be added to the water. Young growth is transferred to a permanent place of residence in the second half of August.
It is best to plan the sowing of delphinium seeds at the end of February.
Not very large seeds, slightly deepening, are evenly distributed over the surface of the substrate prepared as described above, and sprinkled on top with a thin layer of soil (so that they do not appear on the surface during the first watering) and sprayed with water from a spray bottle.
Stratification will help the seeds sprout faster, so the sown containers are covered with an opaque dense material, wrapped in polyethylene and put in the refrigerator, on the balcony, or taken out into the street for 10-14 days. Seeds can easily withstand temperatures down to -5°C.
The first option is preferable - it will be convenient for you to follow the seeds, because there are times when they begin to hatch already in the process of stratification. This usually happens on the tenth or fourteenth day.
When the first shoots appear, the containers should be opened and be sure to move them to a bright place with a temperature of 15-18 ° C (but in no case above 20 ° C, otherwise the shoots will die).
Not very large seeds, slightly deepening, are evenly distributed over the surface of the substrate prepared as described above, and sprinkled on top with a thin layer of soil (so that they do not appear on the surface during the first watering) and sprayed with water from a spray bottle.
Stratification will help the seeds sprout faster, so the sown containers are covered with an opaque dense material, wrapped in polyethylene and put in the refrigerator, on the balcony, or taken out into the street for 10-14 days. Seeds can easily withstand temperatures down to -5°C.
The first option is preferable - it will be convenient for you to follow the seeds, because there are times when they begin to hatch already in the process of stratification. This usually happens on the tenth or fourteenth day.
When the first shoots appear, the containers should be opened and be sure to move them to a bright place with a temperature of 15-18 ° C (but in no case above 20 ° C, otherwise the shoots will die).
Peony seeds often have a long shelf life, due to which they lose some of their moisture and shrivel. In such seeds, the outer shell is hardened, which creates an obstacle to spitting. For this reason, purchased seeds are recommended to be soaked in water at room temperature for 48 hours before sowing. If sowing work is carried out in August, then you can sow directly into the ground. But shoots can appear only in the 2nd year. If you decide to sow in the winter, then you will have to carry out a two-stage stratification artificially. For this purpose, it is a good idea to purchase an electric heating pad with a thermostat, which will allow you to adjust the daily temperature fluctuations by switching the control limits.
(I propose an option: alternation - during the day on the battery (of course with insulation - for example, a piece of foam, next to a thermometer), at night on the windowsill, where it is colder.).
Peony seeds are sown in moistened sand and the bowls in which the sowing is done are placed on a heating pad. Within a month, it is required to increase the heating temperature to 30 ° C during the day, and reduce it to 15 ° C at night. Of course, the sand must be periodically moistened with a spray bottle. When roots appear, you can proceed to the second stage - "cold" stratification.
At the second stage, the hatched seeds need to be transplanted into boxes with fertile soil (peat humus tablets can be used) and the temperature should be reduced to 5 - 10 ° C. Now it remains to wait for the appearance of leaves, after which the seedlings are again transferred to heat (18 - 20 ° C).
Grown seedlings are planted in a permanent place in the second half of August.
(I propose an option: alternation - during the day on the battery (of course with insulation - for example, a piece of foam, next to a thermometer), at night on the windowsill, where it is colder.).
Peony seeds are sown in moistened sand and the bowls in which the sowing is done are placed on a heating pad. Within a month, it is required to increase the heating temperature to 30 ° C during the day, and reduce it to 15 ° C at night. Of course, the sand must be periodically moistened with a spray bottle. When roots appear, you can proceed to the second stage - "cold" stratification.
At the second stage, the hatched seeds need to be transplanted into boxes with fertile soil (peat humus tablets can be used) and the temperature should be reduced to 5 - 10 ° C. Now it remains to wait for the appearance of leaves, after which the seedlings are again transferred to heat (18 - 20 ° C).
Grown seedlings are planted in a permanent place in the second half of August.
Lupine seeds are sown for seedlings in a loose soil mixture for seed germination, consisting of peat (one part), soddy soil (one part) and sand (half part). Before sowing, the seeds are mixed with powdered root nodules of old lupins to promote the growth of nitrogen-absorbing bacteria. Shoots will appear in a week or two, and if you want all the seeds to sprout at the same time, you need to cover the crops with damp gauze and keep them warm. Cultivation of seedlings It should be recalled that seed propagation does not guarantee the inheritance of color and other characteristics of mother plants by young lupins. Lupine from seeds is usually grown for the purpose of a breeding experiment. Violet and pink colors dominate, therefore, they can be preserved in the next generation, and the white color is likely to be lost during seed reproduction. After the appearance of 2-3 true leaves, the seedlings are planted in a permanent place - do not delay the transplant, as the tap root system will become a significant hindrance to you.
The most favorable period for sowing is the time from late February to mid-April. Planting can be done in stages. Thus, you will increase the flowering time of the plant. Those planted earlier will bloom earlier. Those planted later will bloom after those that bloomed first.
To grow carnations from seeds for seedlings as a home flower, you can sow all year round, but this is best done closer to spring and summer. In open ground, sowing can be done in May. For growing carnation seedlings, the usual "Universal" soil purchased at the store will be enough. If you make up the soil yourself, then take equal parts of garden soil, peat and humus and add a little perlite or sand to them.
The soil should be with a neutral pH. If you have acidic soil, as in the Moscow region or those who live near a coniferous forest, then add some ash to the substrate. A container for planting seedlings can be of the most diverse shapes and from any material. The main condition is that there are “good” drainage holes at the bottom. A drainage layer should be laid at the bottom of the container. It can be small expanded clay or crushed foam. Carnation seeds differ depending on the species. Some are very small, and some are slightly larger.
If the seeds are small, like those of the grass carnation, then they do not need to be buried in the ground. It is enough just to scatter a thin layer on the surface of a pre-moistened substrate. The seeds are slightly larger, like those of the Turkish carnation. We plant carnations for seedlings in grooves, at a distance of 2–2.5 cm from each other and deepen them into the ground by 0.5 cm. Sprinkle a layer of earth on top. Then lightly press the seeds to the ground with your hands. We water the earth before we start sowing so that the seeds do not go deeper than necessary if we water after sowing. Then you can sprinkle them 2-3 more times from a spray bottle and cover with a film or glass. We place the crops in a bright and warm place. It is desirable that in the room where the crops will stand, the temperature should not be more than + 18 ... + 20 degrees. If you do everything right, then in 10-12 days you will have shoots. After the emergence of seedlings, it is desirable to reduce the temperature to +12 ... +15 degrees.
We air the crops daily. As soon as the seedlings hatch, we begin to increase the ventilation time. Remove the cover after a few days. We put in a brighter place. Plants need bright light, so it is advisable to use a phytolamp or an ordinary lamp.
To grow carnations from seeds for seedlings as a home flower, you can sow all year round, but this is best done closer to spring and summer. In open ground, sowing can be done in May. For growing carnation seedlings, the usual "Universal" soil purchased at the store will be enough. If you make up the soil yourself, then take equal parts of garden soil, peat and humus and add a little perlite or sand to them.
The soil should be with a neutral pH. If you have acidic soil, as in the Moscow region or those who live near a coniferous forest, then add some ash to the substrate. A container for planting seedlings can be of the most diverse shapes and from any material. The main condition is that there are “good” drainage holes at the bottom. A drainage layer should be laid at the bottom of the container. It can be small expanded clay or crushed foam. Carnation seeds differ depending on the species. Some are very small, and some are slightly larger.
If the seeds are small, like those of the grass carnation, then they do not need to be buried in the ground. It is enough just to scatter a thin layer on the surface of a pre-moistened substrate. The seeds are slightly larger, like those of the Turkish carnation. We plant carnations for seedlings in grooves, at a distance of 2–2.5 cm from each other and deepen them into the ground by 0.5 cm. Sprinkle a layer of earth on top. Then lightly press the seeds to the ground with your hands. We water the earth before we start sowing so that the seeds do not go deeper than necessary if we water after sowing. Then you can sprinkle them 2-3 more times from a spray bottle and cover with a film or glass. We place the crops in a bright and warm place. It is desirable that in the room where the crops will stand, the temperature should not be more than + 18 ... + 20 degrees. If you do everything right, then in 10-12 days you will have shoots. After the emergence of seedlings, it is desirable to reduce the temperature to +12 ... +15 degrees.
We air the crops daily. As soon as the seedlings hatch, we begin to increase the ventilation time. Remove the cover after a few days. We put in a brighter place. Plants need bright light, so it is advisable to use a phytolamp or an ordinary lamp.
Annual, stratification is not needed. Sowing in March-April for seedlings. Shoots appear in 7-14 days, at a temperature of 15-18 C.
For planting a house for seedlings:
- fill shallow containers with soil mixture;
- spray the soil abundantly;
- sow the seeds on the surface of the soil;
- sprinkle on top with a layer of earth no more than 5 mm thick;
- cover with foil and put in a warm place;
- periodically ventilate the greenhouse and moisten the soil;
- when seedlings appear (usually this happens after 2 weeks), remove the film and place the seedlings in the brightest place;
- after the formation of a pair of true leaves, dive seedlings into separate containers or remove excess sprouts.
Plants develop normally at a temperature of 15 C. Seedlings are planted in the ground in May-June. The distance between plants is 20-30 cm.
You can sow directly into the ground in May, as the frosts pass. Immortelle prefers a sunny place and light, dry, sandy soils are better. Watering, weeding. Loosening.
For planting a house for seedlings:
- fill shallow containers with soil mixture;
- spray the soil abundantly;
- sow the seeds on the surface of the soil;
- sprinkle on top with a layer of earth no more than 5 mm thick;
- cover with foil and put in a warm place;
- periodically ventilate the greenhouse and moisten the soil;
- when seedlings appear (usually this happens after 2 weeks), remove the film and place the seedlings in the brightest place;
- after the formation of a pair of true leaves, dive seedlings into separate containers or remove excess sprouts.
Plants develop normally at a temperature of 15 C. Seedlings are planted in the ground in May-June. The distance between plants is 20-30 cm.
You can sow directly into the ground in May, as the frosts pass. Immortelle prefers a sunny place and light, dry, sandy soils are better. Watering, weeding. Loosening.
Lupine seeds are sown for seedlings in a loose soil mixture for seed germination, consisting of peat (one part), soddy soil (one part) and sand (half part). Before sowing, the seeds are mixed with powdered root nodules of old lupins to promote the growth of nitrogen-absorbing bacteria. Shoots will appear in a week or two, and if you want all the seeds to sprout at the same time, you need to cover the crops with damp gauze and keep them warm. Cultivation of seedlings It should be recalled that seed propagation does not guarantee the inheritance of color and other characteristics of mother plants by young lupins. Lupine from seeds is usually grown for the purpose of a breeding experiment. Violet and pink colors dominate, therefore, they can be preserved in the next generation, and the white color is likely to be lost during seed reproduction. After the appearance of 2-3 true leaves, the seedlings are planted in a permanent place - do not delay the transplant, as the tap root system will become a significant hindrance to you.
Seeds are recommended to germinate in the light. Seeding is superficial. The substrate is light, acidic. You need to sow the seeds in a greenhouse. For this, a plastic container with a high transparent lid or a regular pot covered with polyethylene is suitable. The recommended temperature for seed germination is +25. Seeds are sown superficially, it is not necessary to sprinkle with earth. Further, it is necessary to maintain high humidity in the greenhouse and ventilate it several times a day so that mold does not appear. After the seedlings grow up a little, they need to be planted in separate pots and fertilized regularly. Preliminary maintenance at a temperature of 0-5 degrees for 2-3 weeks improves germination.
In nature, mallow reproduces on its own by self-sowing in the fall. In August - September (and sometimes in July), the seeds are immediately scattered to the chosen place, mulched with a 2-3 cm layer of humus. And, having marked the place of sowing with a sign, they forget about it until spring. With winter sowing, seedlings will appear in the spring at the appointed time, when the soil warms up enough, and the plants will bloom in the same season.
In April - May, the soil is still quite moist after snow melting and from rains, so tender seedlings do not need watering. The earth around the leaves that appear can be carefully shed, trying not to get on the green parts (under the root), dissolved mineral fertilizers with a predominance of nitrogen. This will help to quickly increase the required amount of leaf mass. After a while, the plant will release a flowering stem. For the formation of more buds and abundant flowering from early July to late September, the stock rose may need phosphorus-potassium top dressing.
In spring, it is also permissible to sow seeds directly into open ground. The algorithm of actions here is the same as in autumn. Sowing is carried out around the end of May, when the risk of return frosts has passed. The day before, the seeds are soaked in a solution of phytohormones. This manipulation contributes to the early awakening of dormant embryos, activates the development of the root system, and increases immunity to adverse factors.
It often happens that not all seeds sown germinate. Therefore, many gardeners sow them with a margin, which is why the opposite situation arises - plantings are thickened. If there are too many seedlings, they grow chaotically, interfering with each other, weaker plants should be removed. Further, the mallow grows on its own, without outside help. In the case of spring sowing, the leaves develop in the first year, forming a round low rosette. And only for the next season, the stock rose will have a stem with flowers. A hardy stock rose can winter well without shelter. If the variety is delicate or snowless winters are predicted, the planting site can be covered with mulch.
In areas with a difficult climate and short summers, in order to admire the flowering, it is reasonable to grow heat-loving mallow through seedlings. Sowing seeds at home or in greenhouse conditions is carried out in February with additional lighting. March - April are considered more suitable dates due to increasing daylight hours. Early sowing dates allow plants to gain strength for a successful wintering even in the case of a cold autumn. Mallow has a powerful tap root. Due to the peculiarities of the structure of the root system, it is recommended to grow a flower without a pick and transplant it together with an earthen clod. As planting containers, it is better to take peat or cardboard cups with a larger volume so that the roots have enough space for full development until they are transplanted directly into the ground. Such containers, having previously broken out the bottom, are placed in the ground, as is, entirely, without disturbing the root system of the plant, even by transshipment. The prepared loose soil mixture is steamed or calcined. Adding perlite in a ratio of 1:3 will increase breathability. Seeds are pre-soaked in warm water with a growth stimulator diluted according to the instructions. Seeds swell from nutrient moisture, wake up and sprout faster. They are laid out in separate pots, deepening only 2-3 cm, covered with a film and placed under phytolamps. It remains to carefully monitor the moderate soil moisture and ambient temperature. It should be about 18-20 degrees.
In April - May, the soil is still quite moist after snow melting and from rains, so tender seedlings do not need watering. The earth around the leaves that appear can be carefully shed, trying not to get on the green parts (under the root), dissolved mineral fertilizers with a predominance of nitrogen. This will help to quickly increase the required amount of leaf mass. After a while, the plant will release a flowering stem. For the formation of more buds and abundant flowering from early July to late September, the stock rose may need phosphorus-potassium top dressing.
In spring, it is also permissible to sow seeds directly into open ground. The algorithm of actions here is the same as in autumn. Sowing is carried out around the end of May, when the risk of return frosts has passed. The day before, the seeds are soaked in a solution of phytohormones. This manipulation contributes to the early awakening of dormant embryos, activates the development of the root system, and increases immunity to adverse factors.
It often happens that not all seeds sown germinate. Therefore, many gardeners sow them with a margin, which is why the opposite situation arises - plantings are thickened. If there are too many seedlings, they grow chaotically, interfering with each other, weaker plants should be removed. Further, the mallow grows on its own, without outside help. In the case of spring sowing, the leaves develop in the first year, forming a round low rosette. And only for the next season, the stock rose will have a stem with flowers. A hardy stock rose can winter well without shelter. If the variety is delicate or snowless winters are predicted, the planting site can be covered with mulch.
In areas with a difficult climate and short summers, in order to admire the flowering, it is reasonable to grow heat-loving mallow through seedlings. Sowing seeds at home or in greenhouse conditions is carried out in February with additional lighting. March - April are considered more suitable dates due to increasing daylight hours. Early sowing dates allow plants to gain strength for a successful wintering even in the case of a cold autumn. Mallow has a powerful tap root. Due to the peculiarities of the structure of the root system, it is recommended to grow a flower without a pick and transplant it together with an earthen clod. As planting containers, it is better to take peat or cardboard cups with a larger volume so that the roots have enough space for full development until they are transplanted directly into the ground. Such containers, having previously broken out the bottom, are placed in the ground, as is, entirely, without disturbing the root system of the plant, even by transshipment. The prepared loose soil mixture is steamed or calcined. Adding perlite in a ratio of 1:3 will increase breathability. Seeds are pre-soaked in warm water with a growth stimulator diluted according to the instructions. Seeds swell from nutrient moisture, wake up and sprout faster. They are laid out in separate pots, deepening only 2-3 cm, covered with a film and placed under phytolamps. It remains to carefully monitor the moderate soil moisture and ambient temperature. It should be about 18-20 degrees.
Sowing dates:
In early October, they are sown on prepared ridges before winter. Shelter before frost with fallen leaves or boards, for less freezing of the soil. Seedlings appear early in spring.
At home, you can sow at several times from February to March. Until then, keep the grains in the refrigerator. If at home or in a greenhouse there are conditions for additional illumination of seedlings, daylily seeds aged in the refrigerator for 3-4 weeks can be sown in containers with soil from October. When there are no such favorable conditions for the development of seedlings, then daylily seeds should be sown closer to March, when the frequency and duration of sunny days increase.
Pre-sowing treatment:
For better germination, soak the seeds in a solution of hydrogen peroxide (a teaspoon per 0.5 liters of water). Daily change the liquid to fresh or germinate on cotton pads. Moisten the base well, lay the seeds between the layers. Cover with a bag, put in the refrigerator.
Check daily for broken seeds. The bulk awakens in 5-7 days. Single copies can "think" for a month or more.
Soaking in a camphor solution helps to wake up the "slow-thinkers". Alcohol tincture 5 g is added to a liter of water. Soak seeds for 3 days. Hatched specimens are planted immediately. Overexposure leads to decay of planting material.
Sowing:
We make drainage holes in the container. We prepare a mixture of purchased land with the addition of sand. Pour into boxes 10 cm high. We spill with a weak solution of potassium permanganate. We spread the seeds on the surface. Sprinkle the substrate with a layer of 0.3-0.5 cm. With a shallow incorporation during germination, the grains come out, with a deep one, they sprout tightly. Therefore, you need to monitor landings daily. Sprinkle protruding specimens with soil so that they do not dry out.
The soil is kept moderately moist. Until the moment of germination, the boxes are covered with a film. Then it is gradually removed.
Experienced gardeners note a good result of sowing in peat tablets one seed at a time. The balanced composition of the soil with the addition of fertilizers helps to get friendly shoots faster. There is no need for picking.
Soak semi-finished products in water, saturating the soil. The seed is laid out in the recesses in the middle of the tablet, sprinkled with river sand on top. They put it in a tray. With slight drying, water is added to the container. Before planting in open ground, remove the mesh that holds the peat outside.
In early October, they are sown on prepared ridges before winter. Shelter before frost with fallen leaves or boards, for less freezing of the soil. Seedlings appear early in spring.
At home, you can sow at several times from February to March. Until then, keep the grains in the refrigerator. If at home or in a greenhouse there are conditions for additional illumination of seedlings, daylily seeds aged in the refrigerator for 3-4 weeks can be sown in containers with soil from October. When there are no such favorable conditions for the development of seedlings, then daylily seeds should be sown closer to March, when the frequency and duration of sunny days increase.
Pre-sowing treatment:
For better germination, soak the seeds in a solution of hydrogen peroxide (a teaspoon per 0.5 liters of water). Daily change the liquid to fresh or germinate on cotton pads. Moisten the base well, lay the seeds between the layers. Cover with a bag, put in the refrigerator.
Check daily for broken seeds. The bulk awakens in 5-7 days. Single copies can "think" for a month or more.
Soaking in a camphor solution helps to wake up the "slow-thinkers". Alcohol tincture 5 g is added to a liter of water. Soak seeds for 3 days. Hatched specimens are planted immediately. Overexposure leads to decay of planting material.
Sowing:
We make drainage holes in the container. We prepare a mixture of purchased land with the addition of sand. Pour into boxes 10 cm high. We spill with a weak solution of potassium permanganate. We spread the seeds on the surface. Sprinkle the substrate with a layer of 0.3-0.5 cm. With a shallow incorporation during germination, the grains come out, with a deep one, they sprout tightly. Therefore, you need to monitor landings daily. Sprinkle protruding specimens with soil so that they do not dry out.
The soil is kept moderately moist. Until the moment of germination, the boxes are covered with a film. Then it is gradually removed.
Experienced gardeners note a good result of sowing in peat tablets one seed at a time. The balanced composition of the soil with the addition of fertilizers helps to get friendly shoots faster. There is no need for picking.
Soak semi-finished products in water, saturating the soil. The seed is laid out in the recesses in the middle of the tablet, sprinkled with river sand on top. They put it in a tray. With slight drying, water is added to the container. Before planting in open ground, remove the mesh that holds the peat outside.
The seed material of irises has its own characteristics: for germination, they require stratification.
Seeds can be sown in autumn or spring.
During autumn sowing, stratification occurs in a natural way. Under the influence of cold temperatures with the onset of heat, green sprouts will appear on the beds. Plants grown by winter sowing are more viable and do not stretch. Seeds are sown in mid-September. For the winter, the bed is covered with earth by 20 centimeters.
If it was decided to grow iris by sowing seeds in the spring, then it is necessary to carry out artificial stratification. Seeds are laid out in a container, wrapped in a damp cloth. Within 1-2 months, the seed should be in the refrigerator. The fabric should always be damp, but do not allow mold to form.
In February or March, the seeds are sown in loose soil in separate cups. The embedment depth is not more than 2 cm. Irises need to be grown in good light and in warmth.
Seeds can be sown in autumn or spring.
During autumn sowing, stratification occurs in a natural way. Under the influence of cold temperatures with the onset of heat, green sprouts will appear on the beds. Plants grown by winter sowing are more viable and do not stretch. Seeds are sown in mid-September. For the winter, the bed is covered with earth by 20 centimeters.
If it was decided to grow iris by sowing seeds in the spring, then it is necessary to carry out artificial stratification. Seeds are laid out in a container, wrapped in a damp cloth. Within 1-2 months, the seed should be in the refrigerator. The fabric should always be damp, but do not allow mold to form.
In February or March, the seeds are sown in loose soil in separate cups. The embedment depth is not more than 2 cm. Irises need to be grown in good light and in warmth.
Seeds are not naturally dormant and can be sown without prior treatment. To promote seed germination, soak seeds in room temperature water for 12 hours before sowing. Sow the seeds in containers filled with all-purpose soil and sprinkle a light layer of earth on top. Then gently compact before watering and cover with a plastic bag or glass. Growing temperature from +20 to +25 °С. Seeds will germinate in 2-4 weeks.
Seeds are sown for seedlings in March. Sow the seeds in a seedling box, shallow. Sprinkle with soil and put in a warm place with diffused lighting. Seedling care consists in moistening the soil. Grown up and strengthened sprouts are planted on the site in May. Sowing seeds in open ground is carried out when there is no threat of frost, although sowing in November before winter is considered the best sowing time. During the winter period, the seeds undergo stratification in natural conditions, seedlings are considered more viable. In any case, the sowing depth is a centimeter. If sowing in the spring, keep the soil moist at all times. Buzulnik, grown from seeds, blooms no earlier than the fourth year.
Perennial. If annual varieties of poppy begin to bloom in the year of planting, then perennial varieties are likely to bloom the next season (if the seeds are sown in the fall). When planted in spring, flowers will appear on the bushes later than in autumn sowing. Poppies bloom in early summer.
The fruits of this plant is a box, covered with a "lid" on top. When it dries, small holes appear between it and the lid. If you leave a box with seeds on a bush, as a result of self-seeding, seeds will spill out through these holes. And this cycle will be repeated every year.
Planting an oriental perennial poppy is not at all difficult. Sowing material is planted immediately in the ground either in spring or autumn. As mentioned earlier, flowers after sowing will appear in the second or even third year.
If the seeds are too small, they can not even be deepened much, but only slightly pressed.
When planting seeds for seedlings, when 5 young leaves appear, plants can be planted in beds or flower beds. But, as a rule, the seedling method is not used, and the seeds are immediately sown in a permanent place.
There is an opinion that stratification is necessary for good germination of poppy seeds. That is why experienced gardeners advise sowing in early spring, when there is a chance of frost. If planting is carried out in a region with a mild climate, it is better to sow poppies in the fall so that the seeds receive the necessary stratification. They will thrive in the spring.
Before planting a flower garden, you just need to loosen the ground with a rake and scatter the seed. Some flower growers mix it with sand. After that, the seeds are sprinkled on top with a thin layer of earth. At the same time, the main thing is not to deepen them too much, because later they may simply not have enough strength to ascend. The landing site must be watered, but not heavily flooded with water.
The fruits of this plant is a box, covered with a "lid" on top. When it dries, small holes appear between it and the lid. If you leave a box with seeds on a bush, as a result of self-seeding, seeds will spill out through these holes. And this cycle will be repeated every year.
Planting an oriental perennial poppy is not at all difficult. Sowing material is planted immediately in the ground either in spring or autumn. As mentioned earlier, flowers after sowing will appear in the second or even third year.
If the seeds are too small, they can not even be deepened much, but only slightly pressed.
When planting seeds for seedlings, when 5 young leaves appear, plants can be planted in beds or flower beds. But, as a rule, the seedling method is not used, and the seeds are immediately sown in a permanent place.
There is an opinion that stratification is necessary for good germination of poppy seeds. That is why experienced gardeners advise sowing in early spring, when there is a chance of frost. If planting is carried out in a region with a mild climate, it is better to sow poppies in the fall so that the seeds receive the necessary stratification. They will thrive in the spring.
Before planting a flower garden, you just need to loosen the ground with a rake and scatter the seed. Some flower growers mix it with sand. After that, the seeds are sprinkled on top with a thin layer of earth. At the same time, the main thing is not to deepen them too much, because later they may simply not have enough strength to ascend. The landing site must be watered, but not heavily flooded with water.
Seeds are sown in August-September.
In August and September they are planted in a cold frame or greenhouse; Picking is done in seedling boxes and placed for overwintering in a well-ventilated greenhouse or in a cold frame.
Germination in spring is slower. In this case, a two-stage stratification is desirable: 1 week at 18-20C, then 1-2 months at 2-5C.
The seeds are laid out on the surface, pressed a little, no deeper than 2 mm. There is no need to cover it with soil. The containers with the seed are covered with film, creating a greenhouse effect. They need to be placed where the light is diffused. The earth must not dry out. Watering is only drip.
In August and September they are planted in a cold frame or greenhouse; Picking is done in seedling boxes and placed for overwintering in a well-ventilated greenhouse or in a cold frame.
Germination in spring is slower. In this case, a two-stage stratification is desirable: 1 week at 18-20C, then 1-2 months at 2-5C.
The seeds are laid out on the surface, pressed a little, no deeper than 2 mm. There is no need to cover it with soil. The containers with the seed are covered with film, creating a greenhouse effect. They need to be placed where the light is diffused. The earth must not dry out. Watering is only drip.
Seeds are sown in June in the soil to a depth of no more than 1 cm. The seeds will undergo natural stratification and seedlings will form only next year, after which the seedlings are picked and transplanted for growing.
If the hellebore is planted next year, then you need to sow the seeds in a container and keep it in room conditions for 3 months, and then place the container in the refrigerator for 2-3 months; germination in the refrigerator can begin in a month, or it can take 3 month. The pot must be watered and ensure that mold does not grow in it. This way the seeds will undergo two-stage stratification and germinate. Seedlings, as a rule, begin to appear already in December-January, planting in open ground begins around mid-summer, by autumn they are already growing well and wintering without problems.
When planting, it is necessary to prepare a drainage layer of expanded clay or broken bricks and fairly fertile soil.
Care includes moderate watering, regular feeding with organic and mineral fertilizers.
If the hellebore is planted next year, then you need to sow the seeds in a container and keep it in room conditions for 3 months, and then place the container in the refrigerator for 2-3 months; germination in the refrigerator can begin in a month, or it can take 3 month. The pot must be watered and ensure that mold does not grow in it. This way the seeds will undergo two-stage stratification and germinate. Seedlings, as a rule, begin to appear already in December-January, planting in open ground begins around mid-summer, by autumn they are already growing well and wintering without problems.
When planting, it is necessary to prepare a drainage layer of expanded clay or broken bricks and fairly fertile soil.
Care includes moderate watering, regular feeding with organic and mineral fertilizers.
Grass seeds
Stratification is not required. Sowing to a depth of 0.5-1 cm.
The site is preliminarily dug up to the depth of the shovel bayonet, removing weed roots, after which the surface is leveled and furrows are made in it. The seeds are sown to a depth of 1 cm and watered abundantly after planting. When sowing in dry soil, it is advisable to cover the beds with a film to speed up the emergence of seedlings.
The site is preliminarily dug up to the depth of the shovel bayonet, removing weed roots, after which the surface is leveled and furrows are made in it. The seeds are sown to a depth of 1 cm and watered abundantly after planting. When sowing in dry soil, it is advisable to cover the beds with a film to speed up the emergence of seedlings.
Before planting the seeds, they must be soaked in warm water. To improve germination, a solution of "Epin" or "Zircon" is added to the liquid. The raw material is very small, so for convenience it can be laid out on a damp cloth and put in a warm place for a day. Seeds are sown in late March or early April on the surface of a well-moistened substrate from garden soil, compost, humus and river sand. Seeds do not need to be planted. Cover the crops with a transparent material and place in a warm, bright place. The air temperature should not fall below 15 ° C, otherwise the plants will get sick with a black leg. If it is cloudy outside, then be sure to illuminate with a phytolamp. Stevia will hatch in 1-2 weeks, after which the polyethylene can be removed. When the seedlings grow up to 5-7 centimeters and give out 2-3 true leaves, they can be picked. In individual cups, plants should be transferred carefully, together in a clod of earth. Deepen to the first leaves. Water regularly. A couple of times you can combine watering with top dressing with complex mineral fertilizer. Also, do not leave young plants in direct sunlight.
Unfortunately, due to the size of quinoa, it is not possible to grow it at home on a windowsill. Its root system will not need a large pot or container. And in the flower garden, he will feel great, because quinoa, as it ripens, also blooms very beautifully. Under certain conditions, the plant does not require careful care. If the winter in your area is warm enough, then the seeds can be sown into the soil in late summer or early autumn. In order for them to germinate, the soil temperature must be at least 15 ° C. First you need to dig up the soil, and then sprinkle it with fresh compost on top. Then loosen the bed, highlighting rows for seeds on it. The distance between them is at least 30 cm. The holes themselves must be placed at the same distance. After planting, the seeds should be covered with a thin layer of soil, and then sprayed with water to moisten the soil. In order for quinoa to germinate accurately, it is necessary to put 2-3 seeds in one hole. Usually the first seedlings rise above the soil in about 4-5 days. If all the seedlings sprout, the excess must be removed. In cramped conditions, they will not be able to give a good harvest. Soil is the only thing demanding on quinoa. Loamy soil is suitable for growing the plant. It is important that it contains a lot of organic matter, otherwise the harvest will not be rich.
Seeds need a two-stage stratification: I - when 10-20° for 3-4 months, while a gradual decrease in T is recommended (2-3 months at 18-20°, then 1-2 months at 5-10°), II - at 0-3° for 3 months When sown immediately in a permanent place, seedlings appear in the second year.
Seeds are sown in loose, fertile, slightly moistened soil, after soaking them for a day in warm water. When germinating, it is necessary to maintain sufficient moisture and protect the seedlings from direct sunlight. Young plants are planted in deep pots and kept in a shaded greenhouse for at least the first winter.
Seeds are sown in loose, fertile, slightly moistened soil, after soaking them for a day in warm water. When germinating, it is necessary to maintain sufficient moisture and protect the seedlings from direct sunlight. Young plants are planted in deep pots and kept in a shaded greenhouse for at least the first winter.
Stratification is not required, but cold stratification for 2-3 months increases germination. Seeding is superficial. The seeds are photosensitive.
Planted in early spring superficially or at shallow depths. Seedlings are planted in nutrient soil, maintaining a temperature of + 25 ° C, covering with a transparent material. After the appearance of sprouts, the shelter is removed, and after the leaves appear and the soil warms up, they are planted in prepared pits on the street. In winter, seedlings are covered with peat, sawdust.
Planted in early spring superficially or at shallow depths. Seedlings are planted in nutrient soil, maintaining a temperature of + 25 ° C, covering with a transparent material. After the appearance of sprouts, the shelter is removed, and after the leaves appear and the soil warms up, they are planted in prepared pits on the street. In winter, seedlings are covered with peat, sawdust.
Improve poor soil with a little compost before planting lunaria. You can sow it directly into the ground in March-April.
For flowering in early spring of the next year, seeds are sown in the ground from June to September.
How to sow lunaria seeds in open ground:
In well-drained, loosened soil with a hoe, seeds are sown randomly. Seeds should be covered with finely sifted soil (sowing depth 2-3 mm). Lightly tamp the crops. Maintain moisture by watering the bed with a small-hole watering can until emergence (usually 14-21 days). When planting in full sun, protect young seedlings that just emerge with a canopy. After germination, thin out the young plants, leaving one every 30 cm. When sowing seedlings or in a greenhouse, when the seedlings have 2-3 leaves, pick them into separate pots. But this intermediate transplant is not necessary, it is carried out only when growing lunaria seedlings. Seedlings can be transplanted into a flower bed without picking in well-prepared soil.
For flowering in early spring of the next year, seeds are sown in the ground from June to September.
How to sow lunaria seeds in open ground:
In well-drained, loosened soil with a hoe, seeds are sown randomly. Seeds should be covered with finely sifted soil (sowing depth 2-3 mm). Lightly tamp the crops. Maintain moisture by watering the bed with a small-hole watering can until emergence (usually 14-21 days). When planting in full sun, protect young seedlings that just emerge with a canopy. After germination, thin out the young plants, leaving one every 30 cm. When sowing seedlings or in a greenhouse, when the seedlings have 2-3 leaves, pick them into separate pots. But this intermediate transplant is not necessary, it is carried out only when growing lunaria seedlings. Seedlings can be transplanted into a flower bed without picking in well-prepared soil.
Goatbeard is a completely unpretentious plant. Its seeds germinate already at a temperature of +3 degrees. True, when growing a plant for food purposes, you should take care of the composition of the soil. It should be nutritious, non-acidic and loose. Seeds can be sown in late autumn or early spring in the ground previously dug up to a depth of 30 cm. The seeding depth is 2.5 cm. The distance between the rows is 25–30 cm. If the soil is poor, it is necessary to apply phosphorus-potassium fertilizers in the fall, and complex fertilizers in the spring. It should be borne in mind that the oat root, like all root crops, does not like fresh manure. It is desirable to mulch the crops with humus, shoots will begin to appear in 2-3 weeks. As they grow, they need to be thinned out so that in the end the distance between plants is within 10 cm. Until the plants get stronger, the soil must be regularly loosened and weeds removed. During the growth period, the goat-beard needs watering, in the future it will have enough natural precipitation. In the first year of life, the oat root forms a rosette of leaves and a root crop. If the plants of the first year of life go to the arrow, they must be removed, otherwise the roots of such specimens will be small and hard. Goatbeard is a completely unpretentious plant. Its seeds germinate already at a temperature of +3 degrees. True, when growing a plant for food purposes, you should take care of the composition of the soil. It should be nutritious, non-acidic and loose. Seeds can be sown in late autumn or early spring in the ground previously dug up to a depth of 30 cm. The seeding depth is 2.5 cm. The distance between the rows is 25–30 cm. If the soil is poor, it is necessary to apply phosphorus-potassium fertilizers in the fall, and complex fertilizers in the spring. It should be borne in mind that the oat root, like all root crops, does not like fresh manure. It is desirable to mulch the crops with humus, shoots will begin to appear in 2-3 weeks. As they grow, they need to be thinned out so that in the end the distance between plants is within 10 cm. Until the plants get stronger, the soil must be regularly loosened and weeds removed. During the growth period, the goat-beard needs watering, in the future it will have enough natural precipitation. In the first year of life, the oat root forms a rosette of leaves and a root crop. If the plants of the first year of life go to the arrow, they must be removed, otherwise the roots of such specimens will be small and hard.
Stratification is not required. Seeding is superficial. The seeds are photosensitive.
Tansy seeds are sown outdoors in late April or early May, although many gardeners prefer to do this in mid-autumn. Sowing is carried out according to the scheme 20x40 cm, sown superficially or at a shallow depth. Tansy requires virtually no care. Water it from time to time, loosen the soil around it, remove weeds between the rows. In early spring and after flowering, tansy is fed with ammonium nitrate and superphosphate in an amount per 1 m² of 10-15 g and 20 g, respectively. Tansy from seeds will bloom only in the second year.
Tansy seeds are sown outdoors in late April or early May, although many gardeners prefer to do this in mid-autumn. Sowing is carried out according to the scheme 20x40 cm, sown superficially or at a shallow depth. Tansy requires virtually no care. Water it from time to time, loosen the soil around it, remove weeds between the rows. In early spring and after flowering, tansy is fed with ammonium nitrate and superphosphate in an amount per 1 m² of 10-15 g and 20 g, respectively. Tansy from seeds will bloom only in the second year.
When planning how to grow rice at home, the first thing to do is to compare the conditions available with those that the crop needs:
- a well-warmed up area by the sun;
- temperature during the day + 22 ... + 25 degrees, at night - not less than +15;
- the presence of irrigation or the possibility of flooding the beds.
Location selection
In nature, cereal grows in wetlands, so the most important thing when choosing a place is to ensure the level of humidity necessary for the culture. For personal consumption, cereals are often grown in boxes. Given the long growing season, it makes sense to plant plants through seedlings. The landing area should be well lit,
Seed preparation
How to grow rice at home from seeds? Prepare large containers. It is better to use seeds of the same variety. Fill them with water, leave overnight. Soaking will reduce the concentration of substances that interfere with germination in the grains, and the process will begin faster.
Landing
For the convenience of caring for the plant, it is better to make rows and beds. The land must be cleared of weeds. Water the soil abundantly, bury the seeds in it and water again. The distance between the seeds is about 10 cm, between the beds - up to 30 cm.
sprout care
The complexity of care lies in the need to constantly moisten the soil so that the soil does not dry out. Compost or mulch will help make the task easier. A week after planting, the first shoots will appear. The entire ripening period (about 3-4 months) seedlings should be in the water.
- a well-warmed up area by the sun;
- temperature during the day + 22 ... + 25 degrees, at night - not less than +15;
- the presence of irrigation or the possibility of flooding the beds.
Location selection
In nature, cereal grows in wetlands, so the most important thing when choosing a place is to ensure the level of humidity necessary for the culture. For personal consumption, cereals are often grown in boxes. Given the long growing season, it makes sense to plant plants through seedlings. The landing area should be well lit,
Seed preparation
How to grow rice at home from seeds? Prepare large containers. It is better to use seeds of the same variety. Fill them with water, leave overnight. Soaking will reduce the concentration of substances that interfere with germination in the grains, and the process will begin faster.
Landing
For the convenience of caring for the plant, it is better to make rows and beds. The land must be cleared of weeds. Water the soil abundantly, bury the seeds in it and water again. The distance between the seeds is about 10 cm, between the beds - up to 30 cm.
sprout care
The complexity of care lies in the need to constantly moisten the soil so that the soil does not dry out. Compost or mulch will help make the task easier. A week after planting, the first shoots will appear. The entire ripening period (about 3-4 months) seedlings should be in the water.
Seeds need stratif. at 5° for 2-3 months
It is necessary to plant echinacea seeds for seedlings in the early stages. In the middle lane, sowing is usually carried out in early March, in Siberia and the Urals - a couple of weeks later. In the southern regions, landing is allowed as early as mid-February.
Before being transferred to open ground, echinacea seedlings should spend about 2-2.5 months at home. Therefore, the optimal sowing time is chosen in accordance with the climate of the region. Planting echinacea seeds for seedlings is carried out using a total capacity of about 7 cm in height. You can take both a wooden box and a plastic container. Drainage holes are made at the bottom to remove moisture. Before planting echinacea seeds for seedlings, the container must be disinfected from bacteria with boiling water or a solution of potassium permanganate. Culture soil for cultivation requires nutritious, loose and with good breathability. The easiest way is to buy a ready-made substrate for flowers in the store and dilute it with a small amount of perlite. You can also make the soil for echinacea with your own hands - for this you need to mix garden soil, humus, lowland peat and river sand in a ratio of 4: 1: 8: 1. Like the container, the substrate must first be disinfected - calcined in the oven, poured with boiling water or treated with a solution of manganese.
The main difficulties in growing purple echinacea from seeds are due to the fact that the grains are covered with a very dense shell. Before sowing, it is recommended to subject the material to special treatment. It is carried out as follows:
- Prepare a solution of 100 ml of warm water and 3-4 drops of Epin.
- Soak echinacea seeds in a growth stimulator for several hours.
- After the lapse of time, they are washed and laid out on a well-moistened cloth.
- Cover the top with a second piece of wet cloth and place in a plastic bag.
- Tie tightly and leave in a warm place.
- Every day, the seeds must be checked, aired and, if necessary, re-wet the cloth. Sowing for cultivation is carried out immediately after the grains hatch slightly in conditions of high humidity.
To sow echinacea seeds, you must use a standard algorithm. It looks like this:
- A small layer of drainage is poured onto the bottom of the landing container - perlite, coarse sand or expanded clay.
- Lay the disinfected substrate on top, retreating 2-3 cm from the edges of the container.
- Press the soil mixture with your hands and make grooves up to 5 mm deep.
- Lay out the echinacea seeds in the recesses at intervals of 2 - 3 cm.
- Sprinkle the grooves with a thin layer of clean sand.
- Copiously spray the soil with lukewarm water from a spray bottle.
- Immediately after sowing echinacea for seedlings at home, cover the container with plastic wrap. Before the formation of seedlings, it is placed in a cool place with moderate lighting.
The rules for growing echinacea are quite standard. At first, the box with seedlings is kept under the film, but the latter is removed daily for 20 minutes for airing. When the first shoots appear in the container, the shelter will need to be completely removed and the echinacea transferred to a well-lit windowsill. The temperature during cultivation can be raised up to about 18 °C. It is undesirable to keep seedlings in a hotly heated room, echinacea does not like excessive heat. After the formation of a pair of true leaves in echinacea, the seedlings dive into separate cups. The procedure is carried out very carefully, trying not to damage the roots and keeping the earthen ball around them as much as possible. A couple of weeks after picking, seedlings are fed for the first time with a weak solution of complex mineral fertilizer. Transplantation of echinacea from seeds into open ground for further cultivation is carried out in early or mid-May, in the Urals and Siberia - at the end of the month. For seedlings, an open and sun-warmed place with loose neutral soil is chosen on the site.
It is necessary to plant echinacea seeds for seedlings in the early stages. In the middle lane, sowing is usually carried out in early March, in Siberia and the Urals - a couple of weeks later. In the southern regions, landing is allowed as early as mid-February.
Before being transferred to open ground, echinacea seedlings should spend about 2-2.5 months at home. Therefore, the optimal sowing time is chosen in accordance with the climate of the region. Planting echinacea seeds for seedlings is carried out using a total capacity of about 7 cm in height. You can take both a wooden box and a plastic container. Drainage holes are made at the bottom to remove moisture. Before planting echinacea seeds for seedlings, the container must be disinfected from bacteria with boiling water or a solution of potassium permanganate. Culture soil for cultivation requires nutritious, loose and with good breathability. The easiest way is to buy a ready-made substrate for flowers in the store and dilute it with a small amount of perlite. You can also make the soil for echinacea with your own hands - for this you need to mix garden soil, humus, lowland peat and river sand in a ratio of 4: 1: 8: 1. Like the container, the substrate must first be disinfected - calcined in the oven, poured with boiling water or treated with a solution of manganese.
The main difficulties in growing purple echinacea from seeds are due to the fact that the grains are covered with a very dense shell. Before sowing, it is recommended to subject the material to special treatment. It is carried out as follows:
- Prepare a solution of 100 ml of warm water and 3-4 drops of Epin.
- Soak echinacea seeds in a growth stimulator for several hours.
- After the lapse of time, they are washed and laid out on a well-moistened cloth.
- Cover the top with a second piece of wet cloth and place in a plastic bag.
- Tie tightly and leave in a warm place.
- Every day, the seeds must be checked, aired and, if necessary, re-wet the cloth. Sowing for cultivation is carried out immediately after the grains hatch slightly in conditions of high humidity.
To sow echinacea seeds, you must use a standard algorithm. It looks like this:
- A small layer of drainage is poured onto the bottom of the landing container - perlite, coarse sand or expanded clay.
- Lay the disinfected substrate on top, retreating 2-3 cm from the edges of the container.
- Press the soil mixture with your hands and make grooves up to 5 mm deep.
- Lay out the echinacea seeds in the recesses at intervals of 2 - 3 cm.
- Sprinkle the grooves with a thin layer of clean sand.
- Copiously spray the soil with lukewarm water from a spray bottle.
- Immediately after sowing echinacea for seedlings at home, cover the container with plastic wrap. Before the formation of seedlings, it is placed in a cool place with moderate lighting.
The rules for growing echinacea are quite standard. At first, the box with seedlings is kept under the film, but the latter is removed daily for 20 minutes for airing. When the first shoots appear in the container, the shelter will need to be completely removed and the echinacea transferred to a well-lit windowsill. The temperature during cultivation can be raised up to about 18 °C. It is undesirable to keep seedlings in a hotly heated room, echinacea does not like excessive heat. After the formation of a pair of true leaves in echinacea, the seedlings dive into separate cups. The procedure is carried out very carefully, trying not to damage the roots and keeping the earthen ball around them as much as possible. A couple of weeks after picking, seedlings are fed for the first time with a weak solution of complex mineral fertilizer. Transplantation of echinacea from seeds into open ground for further cultivation is carried out in early or mid-May, in the Urals and Siberia - at the end of the month. For seedlings, an open and sun-warmed place with loose neutral soil is chosen on the site.
Stratification is not required. Sowing to a depth of 0.5-1 cm.
Growing amaranth is a simple matter. In areas where by the end of April the soil at a depth of 4-5 cm is already warmed up by the sun to 10 ºC, you can sow amaranth seeds directly into the ground, but before that you should prepare the site - add 30 g of mineral mixture or complex for each square meter for digging. fertilizers according to the instructions. However, when planting fertilizers into the soil, observe the measure: amaranth has the ability to turn nitrogen fertilizers into nitrates that are hazardous to health, so do not get carried away with the nitrogen component. If you sow amaranth on time, it will quickly grow, and you will not have to fight weeds. So, at the end of April, seeds are planted one at a time in grooves in moist soil and buried to a depth of 0.5-1 cm. For convenience, small seeds can be mixed with sand or sawdust in a ratio of 1:20 - it is easier to sow. A distance of 45 cm is observed between rows, between specimens should be about 7-10 cm, so experienced flower growers prefer to suffer with sowing, but do not mix the seeds with sand, but lay them out one by one. After 8-10 days, you will see seedlings, which, if necessary, need to be thinned out, and the soil between them loosened. If you planted amaranth later, in May, you will also have to fight weeds. When the amaranth reaches a height of 20 cm, fertilize with nitrogen fertilizer, but the nitrogen concentration should be half that recommended by the manufacturer. Whether you grow vegetable or decorative amaranth, it does not matter - it will fully ripen in three or three and a half months from the moment of sowing.
Growing amaranth is a simple matter. In areas where by the end of April the soil at a depth of 4-5 cm is already warmed up by the sun to 10 ºC, you can sow amaranth seeds directly into the ground, but before that you should prepare the site - add 30 g of mineral mixture or complex for each square meter for digging. fertilizers according to the instructions. However, when planting fertilizers into the soil, observe the measure: amaranth has the ability to turn nitrogen fertilizers into nitrates that are hazardous to health, so do not get carried away with the nitrogen component. If you sow amaranth on time, it will quickly grow, and you will not have to fight weeds. So, at the end of April, seeds are planted one at a time in grooves in moist soil and buried to a depth of 0.5-1 cm. For convenience, small seeds can be mixed with sand or sawdust in a ratio of 1:20 - it is easier to sow. A distance of 45 cm is observed between rows, between specimens should be about 7-10 cm, so experienced flower growers prefer to suffer with sowing, but do not mix the seeds with sand, but lay them out one by one. After 8-10 days, you will see seedlings, which, if necessary, need to be thinned out, and the soil between them loosened. If you planted amaranth later, in May, you will also have to fight weeds. When the amaranth reaches a height of 20 cm, fertilize with nitrogen fertilizer, but the nitrogen concentration should be half that recommended by the manufacturer. Whether you grow vegetable or decorative amaranth, it does not matter - it will fully ripen in three or three and a half months from the moment of sowing.
Stratification is not required. Sowing to a depth of 0.5-1 cm. Growing fenugreek through seedlings is not recommended, since the seeds germinate better when directly sown in the ground. The plant does not tolerate transplanting well. If you do decide to grow fenugreek through seedlings, use pots that decompose in the ground. In cold climates, and these are all climatic zones of Russia, the plant is grown as an annual crop. Before sowing fenugreek seeds, soak them in water for eight hours to a day. During this time, the seeds will swell and be ready for planting. It is not necessary to leave the seeds in water for more than a day, since the germination of seeds in the soil occurs better than in water. Sow the seeds shallow, planting about half a centimeter into the ground. Keep the distance between the seeds in the region of 15 cm. The seeds will sprout in about 5 days.
In the Moscow region and in central Russia
Sow fenugreek seeds in these areas at the end of April. Embed into the ground to a depth of 0.5-1 cm. It is better to sow the seeds on the beds, sowing with a continuous tape, keep the distance between the beds about 15 cm. After the emergence of seedlings, thin out the plants. The plucked sprouts can be planted, or chopped and added to a salad.
In Siberia and the Urals
Since the culture of fenugreek is thermophilic and does not tolerate frost, in Siberia it should be grown under cover. To get a good harvest, you can do the following:
- Take a large aluminum pan and fill it with suitable soil and sand. The soil should not be very fertile and slightly acidic.
- Put on the edges of the arc to shelter crops on especially cold days.
Such a container with shelter will provide suitable conditions for the development of plants.
In the Moscow region and in central Russia
Sow fenugreek seeds in these areas at the end of April. Embed into the ground to a depth of 0.5-1 cm. It is better to sow the seeds on the beds, sowing with a continuous tape, keep the distance between the beds about 15 cm. After the emergence of seedlings, thin out the plants. The plucked sprouts can be planted, or chopped and added to a salad.
In Siberia and the Urals
Since the culture of fenugreek is thermophilic and does not tolerate frost, in Siberia it should be grown under cover. To get a good harvest, you can do the following:
- Take a large aluminum pan and fill it with suitable soil and sand. The soil should not be very fertile and slightly acidic.
- Put on the edges of the arc to shelter crops on especially cold days.
Such a container with shelter will provide suitable conditions for the development of plants.
In Russia, the climate makes it possible to grow sesame in the Krasnodar Territory. The plant needs a long daylight hours - at least 12 hours, daytime temperature not lower than 25 ° C, moderate watering. Sesame does not tolerate: frost; waterlogging; marshy soils. The plant prefers loose black soil or light loam without stagnant water. Before sowing, the seeds are treated with a fungicide, for example, Alirin-B. Sowing in open ground is carried out when the daytime temperature reaches + 20–30 °С, the night temperature is not lower than + 15 °С. Plants die at + 3 °C and below.
Sesame takes 100-135 days to reach maturity and growing seedlings indoors guarantees a successful harvest even in the middle lane. In our climate, sesame seeds cannot be sown directly in open ground. Seedlings should be sown four to six weeks before the approximate date of the last frost.
Sowing is carried out in trays filled with a ready-made universal mixture for growing flowers or vegetables. When sowing, you need to lightly sprinkle the seeds with a substrate. Keep moist until they germinate, then water once a week or so.
Optimum soil temperature for sesame germination: 21°C. Shoots usually appear in 10-14 days. The grown seedlings need to be picked up or pulled apart. In open ground, they will be ready for transplantation as soon as the temperature outside reaches 20 degrees. Plant young bushes quite densely at a distance of 15 cm, in rows 60-45 cm wide.
Sesame is an indeterminate plant, which means it will continue to flower and set pods in the summer for an extended period, peaking in July and early August.
Sesame takes 100-135 days to reach maturity and growing seedlings indoors guarantees a successful harvest even in the middle lane. In our climate, sesame seeds cannot be sown directly in open ground. Seedlings should be sown four to six weeks before the approximate date of the last frost.
Sowing is carried out in trays filled with a ready-made universal mixture for growing flowers or vegetables. When sowing, you need to lightly sprinkle the seeds with a substrate. Keep moist until they germinate, then water once a week or so.
Optimum soil temperature for sesame germination: 21°C. Shoots usually appear in 10-14 days. The grown seedlings need to be picked up or pulled apart. In open ground, they will be ready for transplantation as soon as the temperature outside reaches 20 degrees. Plant young bushes quite densely at a distance of 15 cm, in rows 60-45 cm wide.
Sesame is an indeterminate plant, which means it will continue to flower and set pods in the summer for an extended period, peaking in July and early August.
The culture is perennial, but in a temperate climate it freezes out - therefore, in the conditions of the middle zone and the Moscow region, it is grown exclusively as an annual.
Sow seeds for seedlings in March-April.
1) Fill wide containers with nutrient soil, spread the seeds-grains over the surface, only slightly pressing into the soil.
2) Moisten the crops with a fine spray.
3) Cover with glass or film to create a greenhouse effect.
4) Do not forget to ventilate daily, eliminating condensation.
5) Maintain optimal soil moisture.
6) Keep the air temperature at 22-24 °C.
7) Lighting is required bright, but diffused.
8) When the sprouts appear, remove the shelter. Leave the lighting level the same, lower the air temperature to 20 ° C, water moderately.
Plant the grown seedlings in individual containers. When picking, try not to damage the roots, carefully lower the plants into the prepared holes, carefully sprinkle with earth and water. After transplanting, provide light shade until the plants take root.
Further care is simple: maintaining the humidity of the substrate, good diffused lighting and warm air temperature without overheating, so that the seedlings do not stretch. If the room is dark, additional lighting with phytolamps will be required. It can be transplanted into open ground with the establishment of real heat, when the threat of return frosts has completely passed. Pre-harden: take out to fresh air a couple of weeks before transplantation, increase the length of stay daily and increase the intensity of lighting.
Sow seeds for seedlings in March-April.
1) Fill wide containers with nutrient soil, spread the seeds-grains over the surface, only slightly pressing into the soil.
2) Moisten the crops with a fine spray.
3) Cover with glass or film to create a greenhouse effect.
4) Do not forget to ventilate daily, eliminating condensation.
5) Maintain optimal soil moisture.
6) Keep the air temperature at 22-24 °C.
7) Lighting is required bright, but diffused.
8) When the sprouts appear, remove the shelter. Leave the lighting level the same, lower the air temperature to 20 ° C, water moderately.
Plant the grown seedlings in individual containers. When picking, try not to damage the roots, carefully lower the plants into the prepared holes, carefully sprinkle with earth and water. After transplanting, provide light shade until the plants take root.
Further care is simple: maintaining the humidity of the substrate, good diffused lighting and warm air temperature without overheating, so that the seedlings do not stretch. If the room is dark, additional lighting with phytolamps will be required. It can be transplanted into open ground with the establishment of real heat, when the threat of return frosts has completely passed. Pre-harden: take out to fresh air a couple of weeks before transplantation, increase the length of stay daily and increase the intensity of lighting.
Aegopodium seeds are sown in March-April in moist peat soils. Before sowing, the seeds are soaked in a solution of potassium permanganate (1 teaspoon per 10 liters of water) or growth stimulator "Epin" (1 tablet per 5 liters of water). The crops are covered with glass or plastic film and kept at a temperature of 18-20°C for 7-10 days. During this time, the seeds germinate and sprout.
The moth prefers shady places and grows well under trees, but in a sunny place the variegated variety of the plant will not be so attractive.
The moth prefers shady places and grows well under trees, but in a sunny place the variegated variety of the plant will not be so attractive.
The upland uterus is a plant that is quite difficult to grow in your garden or vegetable garden.
Why can this plant be called whimsical? The thing is that the upland uterus will not tolerate the neighborhood with tomatoes and cucumbers, which constantly require fertilizing with fertilizers. Indeed, in natural conditions, the upland uterus does without all this. Therefore, it is never possible to grow a medicinal plant near the rest of the beds.
And the conditions themselves for growing a boron queen need special ones. In the garden, you need to create a real edge of the forest, which will be illuminated by the sun, but at the same time, the sun's rays will only penetrate here in the mornings or in the evenings, when the sun is not so scorching.
Seed germination occurs, as in other species of the family: the seedling first leads an underground lifestyle, feeding on mycorrhiza, in the 2nd year or later an above-ground stem and leaf appear, in the 4-5th plant blooms.
Why can this plant be called whimsical? The thing is that the upland uterus will not tolerate the neighborhood with tomatoes and cucumbers, which constantly require fertilizing with fertilizers. Indeed, in natural conditions, the upland uterus does without all this. Therefore, it is never possible to grow a medicinal plant near the rest of the beds.
And the conditions themselves for growing a boron queen need special ones. In the garden, you need to create a real edge of the forest, which will be illuminated by the sun, but at the same time, the sun's rays will only penetrate here in the mornings or in the evenings, when the sun is not so scorching.
Seed germination occurs, as in other species of the family: the seedling first leads an underground lifestyle, feeding on mycorrhiza, in the 2nd year or later an above-ground stem and leaf appear, in the 4-5th plant blooms.
Garden castor propagates exclusively generatively - by seeds that are scarified before sowing. Since out of 10 sown seeds no more than 6-7 germinate, it makes sense to facilitate germination of tight castor seeds by rubbing them with sandpaper before sowing, and then soaking them overnight in Epin, Heteroauxin or other growth stimulant. You can sow seeds directly into the ground in late April or May, but it is better to sow castor seeds for seedlings in March or early April. To do this, they are sown individually to a depth of 2-3 cm in plastic liter buckets, half filled with garden soil. If you scarified the seeds before planting, seedlings can be expected in 3-4 days. If the sticky skin covering the cotyledon leaves does not want to come off, remove it with tweezers, otherwise the seed may rot. Castor seedlings grow very quickly: first the stem is pulled out, then the first leaf appears, and at this time the seedlings must be placed in a cool, bright place with a temperature of at least 15 ºC. As the seedlings grow, soil is poured into the buckets until they are filled to the top. If the seedlings grow too fast, you will have to transfer them to a large container. By the time of planting in open ground, castor seedlings sometimes reach 1 m in height.
Seeds need stratif. with periodically changing temperature (1 day 18 - 20 ° and 2 days 5-7 °) for 4-6 months.
Aralia seeds germinate very slowly - in the third year, and in anticipation of seedlings, the garden bed must be watered regularly, otherwise the seedlings may not appear. And the reason for such a tight germination of seeds is that their germs, like the germs of ginseng, are underdeveloped, and at first they ripen in the ground, and only then begin to grow. Planting aralia in open ground is best done in the fall, after leaf fall, or in the spring, before the buds swell on the trees. Aralia prefers to grow in a well-moistened area, which is illuminated by the sun only up to 11-12 hours.
Aralia seeds germinate very slowly - in the third year, and in anticipation of seedlings, the garden bed must be watered regularly, otherwise the seedlings may not appear. And the reason for such a tight germination of seeds is that their germs, like the germs of ginseng, are underdeveloped, and at first they ripen in the ground, and only then begin to grow. Planting aralia in open ground is best done in the fall, after leaf fall, or in the spring, before the buds swell on the trees. Aralia prefers to grow in a well-moistened area, which is illuminated by the sun only up to 11-12 hours.
It is advisable to choose a sunny area for it, but in addition to this, you need to pay attention to the soil - non-acidic, fertile and loose. It is best to sow in the spring, for example, in March, because the bushes will have time to get stronger by the cold weather and they will not be afraid of frost. But under the winter it is undesirable, since the seedlings may die. But this is if you need sowing for seedlings. If the gardener is going to plant the seeds immediately in the ground, then May (10-20th) will be the best month.
Before you start seedlings, you need to prepare boxes and soil. They take sand, process it to prevent the occurrence of various diseases, then mix it with peat and soddy soil. In this case, the last two components are taken in a ratio of 1 to 1, and there is a little less sand. Next, you need to mix everything until a homogeneous mass, sprinkle in boxes or pots and water. When the seeds are laid out, they need to be sprinkled on top with a small amount of sand and covered with a film. The room temperature should be around 18 degrees before sprouts appear. After at least 2 appear, it is necessary to move the containers to a room with a temperature of 13 degrees. The seedlings also need good lighting. With its deficiency, it is impossible to water abundantly and often, one is enough, a maximum of two times in 7 days. When a couple of sheets appear on the sprouts, you can dive.
Before you start seedlings, you need to prepare boxes and soil. They take sand, process it to prevent the occurrence of various diseases, then mix it with peat and soddy soil. In this case, the last two components are taken in a ratio of 1 to 1, and there is a little less sand. Next, you need to mix everything until a homogeneous mass, sprinkle in boxes or pots and water. When the seeds are laid out, they need to be sprinkled on top with a small amount of sand and covered with a film. The room temperature should be around 18 degrees before sprouts appear. After at least 2 appear, it is necessary to move the containers to a room with a temperature of 13 degrees. The seedlings also need good lighting. With its deficiency, it is impossible to water abundantly and often, one is enough, a maximum of two times in 7 days. When a couple of sheets appear on the sprouts, you can dive.
You can plant seedlings in the spring. The depth is 0.5 cm, the soil is fertile. Cover with foil, monitor soil moisture. When they grow up, plant them in separate containers. Plant outdoors when danger of frost has passed. The soil prefers good, fertile, in natural conditions it can be seen more often in deciduous and mixed forests. In a permanent place, you need to create conditions close to natural. The place should not be sunny, but slightly shaded.
Stored seeds are soaked for a day in warm water before sowing. Any seed that does not swell should be carefully pricked with a needle, being careful not to damage the germ, and re-soaked for another 24 hours. Preliminary cold stratification facilitates germination.
Very hardy, thrives on all types of soil. Photophilous. Shoots are more shade-tolerant than adult plants, easily tolerate significant shading. Hardiness zone 6-9 usda.
Seeds are sown in autumn or spring in a cold greenhouse. When grown for seedlings, plants are transplanted to a permanent place in early summer.
Seeds are sown in autumn or spring in a cold greenhouse. When grown for seedlings, plants are transplanted to a permanent place in early summer.
Seeds can be sown immediately in open ground. Depending on the region, they do this from mid-April to the 10th of May. A bed is being prepared for sowing, from where the grown seedlings can be transplanted to a permanent place. Seeds are sown in rows with row spacing of 35–40 cm, the distance between seeds is 5 cm. The prepared groove is filled with a light fertile substrate, the seed is laid out on top, watered with moisture spray. The rows are not covered with soil! The maximum that can be done is to sprinkle with sand. Shoots will appear in about 2 weeks. This process can be accelerated if a covering material, such as lutrasil, is used after sowing. As soon as the first seedlings come out, it is removed. After the final formation of plantings, the distance between the bushes should be at least 25–30 cm.
Propagated by seeds, the plant is early ripening, the seeding rate is 1-1.5 grams per square meter. Sowing to a depth of 0.5 cm in spring in March-April. When the plants reach a height of 5 cm, seedlings are thinned out with a distance of 15-20 cm. Care consists in weeding, loosening, watering and top dressing.
For sideration, sainfoin is sown in early spring, as soon as the top layer of soil on the site warms up to 6-7 ° C, or in autumn, immediately after harvesting the main crops. Late sowing leads to lower yields. On vast areas, green manure is allowed to be grown in a mixture with cereals (barley, oats, wheat). Sainfoin develops well on soils of any type, with the exception of alkaline, acidic and flooded. Responds well to lime application. The technology of the work is as follows: The site is cleared of last year's foliage and plant debris. Loose soil is harrowed or loosened with a rake, dense soil is dug up. Seeds of sainfoin are sown in rows to a depth of 3-5 cm in increments of 15 cm or scattered on the ground. Crops are sprinkled with earth and rolled with a special roller or the back of a garden rake. The consumption of seed material per 1 weave is 500-700 g. At an air temperature of about +1 ... +3 ° C, friendly shoots break out of the ground 10-15 days after sowing.
Cold stratification is required for 3-5 months. Seeding is superficial. The seeds are photosensitive. Seeds are sown in autumn (before winter) in open ground, then they undergo natural stratification there, and germinate together in spring. Seedlings only need to be seated so that they do not interfere with each other. Potentilla seedlings grow rather slowly. Seeds can be sown in the spring (early March) for seedlings.
Seeds are sown before winter, either in the spring in the ground, or in seedlings.
A prerequisite for sowing chamomile seeds is early sowing and moist soil. As soon as the snow melts and the garden bed is ready, we sow chamomile on moist soil. If the soil dries out quickly, you will need to water it. We sow on the surface of the soil, without planting the seeds in the ground.
Seedlings are very small, although the seeds will germinate quickly - in 8-10 days. For a long time the sprouts will be small, do not worry - chamomile shoots are never in a hurry. It will be possible to weed and thin out only when the plants get a little stronger, grow up to 5-7 cm. You need to thin out carefully, the roots are small - you can pull out all the neighboring shoots along the way.
A prerequisite for sowing chamomile seeds is early sowing and moist soil. As soon as the snow melts and the garden bed is ready, we sow chamomile on moist soil. If the soil dries out quickly, you will need to water it. We sow on the surface of the soil, without planting the seeds in the ground.
Seedlings are very small, although the seeds will germinate quickly - in 8-10 days. For a long time the sprouts will be small, do not worry - chamomile shoots are never in a hurry. It will be possible to weed and thin out only when the plants get a little stronger, grow up to 5-7 cm. You need to thin out carefully, the roots are small - you can pull out all the neighboring shoots along the way.
Growing from seeds is perhaps the only way to propagate a medicinal plant. Sowing is carried out in open ground, and the most favorable time for this procedure is considered to be mid-spring and early autumn. The plant is very unpretentious in care, so growing it is a pleasure. When planting a flower in the garden, you need to consider that the navel likes an abundance of sunlight, so you need to choose an open area. The soil should be rocky, with a small amount of sand. The plant is frost tolerant and responds well to soil feeding.
Stratification is not required. Sowing to a depth of 0.5-1 cm.
You can plant sweet clover on any, and even infertile soils, which is a huge plus when growing this crop. The only contraindication is acidic soil. His sweet clover does not tolerate. Before sowing, the soil must be plowed in the fall, and then cultivated and harrowed twice in the spring. After such processing, in order to preserve moisture in the ground, the fields intended for sowing sweet clover are rolled with special rollers. You also need to take into account that the seeds have a fairly dense shell and in order to improve their germination they are scarified. On a large scale, special equipment is used for this - a scarifier; at home, for small plantings, you can use coarse river sand, with which seeds or sandpaper are ground.
The next step in preparing the seeds for sowing will be their treatment with a solution of boron and molybdenum. After that, they need to be subjected to nitraginization with peat nitragin. Planting in the spring is carried out when the soil warms up to at least three degrees. The first shoots begin to appear on the eighteenth day after sowing. They can easily endure small night frosts down to minus five degrees. We also note that the optimal temperature for the growth and development of sweet clover is twenty-five to twenty-seven degrees.
You can plant sweet clover on any, and even infertile soils, which is a huge plus when growing this crop. The only contraindication is acidic soil. His sweet clover does not tolerate. Before sowing, the soil must be plowed in the fall, and then cultivated and harrowed twice in the spring. After such processing, in order to preserve moisture in the ground, the fields intended for sowing sweet clover are rolled with special rollers. You also need to take into account that the seeds have a fairly dense shell and in order to improve their germination they are scarified. On a large scale, special equipment is used for this - a scarifier; at home, for small plantings, you can use coarse river sand, with which seeds or sandpaper are ground.
The next step in preparing the seeds for sowing will be their treatment with a solution of boron and molybdenum. After that, they need to be subjected to nitraginization with peat nitragin. Planting in the spring is carried out when the soil warms up to at least three degrees. The first shoots begin to appear on the eighteenth day after sowing. They can easily endure small night frosts down to minus five degrees. We also note that the optimal temperature for the growth and development of sweet clover is twenty-five to twenty-seven degrees.
Bedstraw is propagated by seeds, which are sown in autumn. Seeds are sown immediately in a permanent place. In the spring, if necessary, the plantings are thinned out. The plant does not require special care. Grows well in light shade, prefers moderately moist, well-drained, acidic soils. Water moderately, avoiding moisture stagnation. The bedstraw does not need feeding, but on nutritious soils it forms lush bushes and large panicles. Resistant to cold, so it winters well without shelter.
Stratification is not required. Sowing to a depth of 0.5 cm.
How to plant sage seeds
To get seedlings, seeds are sown in late February - early March. Previously, they can be disinfected in a 1% solution of potassium permanganate. As a rule, shoots appear after a couple of weeks, and picking can be done as early as the 3rd week.
For quick and effective germination, it is worth pouring expanded clay on the bottom of the box, and on it - a light soil substrate, which is sold in any specialized store. The mixture should fill the entire volume of the box, not reaching the edge of 2 cm. The earth is moistened, covered with glass or plastic wrap and stopped for the night. Sage seeds are very small and can be mixed with coarse sand for easy planting. They are scattered over the surface, lightly pressed down with the palm of your hand, slightly moistened and again covered with glass or film. The box must be kept at a temperature of +20 ... +25 degrees Celsius.
When the first sprouts appear, the box is moved to a sunny place (on the windowsill). If this is not possible, then the seedlings need to be provided with artificial lighting. For young plants, daylight hours should be at least 12 hours.
Watering a very "young" sage should be moderate. Excess water is the cause of rotting of the base of the shoots. If this happens, you need to reduce the amount of liquid, and sprinkle the surface with dry earth. When the seedlings grow up, it is recommended to transplant them into another container.
In areas with a warm climate, sage seeds can be planted immediately in open ground in April. Before that, they must be soaked in a special growth stimulator. In autumn, only dry seeds are planted in the ground. The sowing depth should be 7 cm, the distance between rows should be approximately 40 cm.
Picking and landing in open ground
Sage picking when grown from seeds is done when 2 true leaves appear on a young plant. The sprout is transplanted into a separate container and covered with a paper sheet for 2-3 days. To make the sage grow lush and beautiful, after the formation of the 6th leaf, the top can be pinched. Seedlings are “transported” to a new place of residence as soon as warm weather sets in and frosts pass. Before planting, the soil must be dug up, weeds must be removed. If necessary, humus can be added to the ground. It is better to choose a well-lit area, as sage loves the sun. Seedlings are planted in rows, maintaining a distance between individual individuals of 20-30 cm.
Care
Sage is a rather unpretentious plant, and caring for it involves regular loosening, weeding and top dressing. For the winter, it is better to “wrap” the plant with fallen leaves. In the spring, it is worth cutting off last year's shoots, leaving 10 cm from the root. Watering should be moderate, water stagnation should not be allowed. It is impossible to grow sage from seeds without proper and timely feeding. At the beginning of its “life”, the plant perceives nitrogen fertilizers well: during this period, for example, slurry can be applied to the soil in a ratio of 1:10. When the buds begin to ripen, you can pamper sage with potassium and phosphorus at the rate of 20 g per 1 sq. m.
How to plant sage seeds
To get seedlings, seeds are sown in late February - early March. Previously, they can be disinfected in a 1% solution of potassium permanganate. As a rule, shoots appear after a couple of weeks, and picking can be done as early as the 3rd week.
For quick and effective germination, it is worth pouring expanded clay on the bottom of the box, and on it - a light soil substrate, which is sold in any specialized store. The mixture should fill the entire volume of the box, not reaching the edge of 2 cm. The earth is moistened, covered with glass or plastic wrap and stopped for the night. Sage seeds are very small and can be mixed with coarse sand for easy planting. They are scattered over the surface, lightly pressed down with the palm of your hand, slightly moistened and again covered with glass or film. The box must be kept at a temperature of +20 ... +25 degrees Celsius.
When the first sprouts appear, the box is moved to a sunny place (on the windowsill). If this is not possible, then the seedlings need to be provided with artificial lighting. For young plants, daylight hours should be at least 12 hours.
Watering a very "young" sage should be moderate. Excess water is the cause of rotting of the base of the shoots. If this happens, you need to reduce the amount of liquid, and sprinkle the surface with dry earth. When the seedlings grow up, it is recommended to transplant them into another container.
In areas with a warm climate, sage seeds can be planted immediately in open ground in April. Before that, they must be soaked in a special growth stimulator. In autumn, only dry seeds are planted in the ground. The sowing depth should be 7 cm, the distance between rows should be approximately 40 cm.
Picking and landing in open ground
Sage picking when grown from seeds is done when 2 true leaves appear on a young plant. The sprout is transplanted into a separate container and covered with a paper sheet for 2-3 days. To make the sage grow lush and beautiful, after the formation of the 6th leaf, the top can be pinched. Seedlings are “transported” to a new place of residence as soon as warm weather sets in and frosts pass. Before planting, the soil must be dug up, weeds must be removed. If necessary, humus can be added to the ground. It is better to choose a well-lit area, as sage loves the sun. Seedlings are planted in rows, maintaining a distance between individual individuals of 20-30 cm.
Care
Sage is a rather unpretentious plant, and caring for it involves regular loosening, weeding and top dressing. For the winter, it is better to “wrap” the plant with fallen leaves. In the spring, it is worth cutting off last year's shoots, leaving 10 cm from the root. Watering should be moderate, water stagnation should not be allowed. It is impossible to grow sage from seeds without proper and timely feeding. At the beginning of its “life”, the plant perceives nitrogen fertilizers well: during this period, for example, slurry can be applied to the soil in a ratio of 1:10. When the buds begin to ripen, you can pamper sage with potassium and phosphorus at the rate of 20 g per 1 sq. m.
Ripe seeds of thistle germinate well in autumn at a temperature of 20-30 ° C, but from a shallow depth (1-2 cm). Seeds embedded in the soil to a depth of 5-6 cm do not germinate, but remain viable for up to 7 years.
Perennial umbrella plant up to 1 m tall. Spicy, lettuce, medicinal and honey (June-August) culture. "Substitute" anise. Gives self-seeding. Likes sunny warm places. Stratification is not required. Sowing to a depth of 0.5-1 cm.
Can be sown directly into the ground in May or April in pots for seedlings. Shoots will appear in 8-10 days. With the seedling method, plants grow more powerful and bloom earlier. The distance between plants after thinning or when planting is 20-25 cm. The plant is cold-resistant, relatively shade-tolerant, not demanding on soils, but does not tolerate excess moisture. Large panicles can be obtained in large quantities if the plants are regularly watered in dry, hot weather. before heading also enhance growth and increase plant productivity. Panicles are cut for drying during flowering, placed in a dry room, spread out in a thin layer or hung in bunches.
Vika propagates by seeds, less often by seedlings grown from seeds.
Sowing depending on the goals:
1) In the spring at the beginning of April and until the end of May - in pursuit of the goal of weed control.
2) In the middle of summer in July - early August to meet the need for healthy fodder for livestock in the fall.
3) For the winter at the end of August and the whole month of September to the place where they plan to plant a tomato.
Most often, the wiki is planted in a chaotic manner, scattering over the area with dug up soil, then raking the clods of soil with a rake and thus covering the seeds with earth. But the most suitable planting scheme for a plant is sowing in long rows to a depth of 1.5-2 cm, row-spacing is 10-15 cm, between seeds - 3-10 cm, depending on the variety and species. The growing season ranges from 80 to 120 days. Landing is carried out from mid-April to the end of May. The plant is unpretentious to the choice of soil, but sprouts and grows better in loam, in soil with lime content. Does not like dense and flooded ground. Before planting, the seeds are soaked for about a day in warm water, then the seedlings will be faster and more friendly for 3-4 days.
Sowing depending on the goals:
1) In the spring at the beginning of April and until the end of May - in pursuit of the goal of weed control.
2) In the middle of summer in July - early August to meet the need for healthy fodder for livestock in the fall.
3) For the winter at the end of August and the whole month of September to the place where they plan to plant a tomato.
Most often, the wiki is planted in a chaotic manner, scattering over the area with dug up soil, then raking the clods of soil with a rake and thus covering the seeds with earth. But the most suitable planting scheme for a plant is sowing in long rows to a depth of 1.5-2 cm, row-spacing is 10-15 cm, between seeds - 3-10 cm, depending on the variety and species. The growing season ranges from 80 to 120 days. Landing is carried out from mid-April to the end of May. The plant is unpretentious to the choice of soil, but sprouts and grows better in loam, in soil with lime content. Does not like dense and flooded ground. Before planting, the seeds are soaked for about a day in warm water, then the seedlings will be faster and more friendly for 3-4 days.
There are 3 ways to plant chard:
Early - seedlings. Seedlings are sown in February-March. Hardened plants are planted in a permanent place, after about 6 weeks (second half of April) with an interval of 40-50 × 20-30 cm.
Medium - in April, sown in the ground. Chard seeds are sown directly into the ground, if the weather allows it and there is no risk of frost, sowing can be done in the second half of April. Covering the bed with non-woven material will accelerate the emergence of seedlings, protect small beets from frost. Seeds are easy to sow, so you should try to plant them fairly regularly, at least every 15 cm, it is better to keep a distance of 40 cm.
The second harvest - growing chard for the autumn harvest, the seeds are sown in the ground from July.
When planting seeds in the ground with a shovel holder, we make a small depression, sow the seeds and manually lightly sprinkle with a thin layer of earth. Watering.
After emergence, the plants are thinned out, leaving them in a row every 7-8 cm, then every 20-30 cm, using the uprooted plants for consumption.
Early - seedlings. Seedlings are sown in February-March. Hardened plants are planted in a permanent place, after about 6 weeks (second half of April) with an interval of 40-50 × 20-30 cm.
Medium - in April, sown in the ground. Chard seeds are sown directly into the ground, if the weather allows it and there is no risk of frost, sowing can be done in the second half of April. Covering the bed with non-woven material will accelerate the emergence of seedlings, protect small beets from frost. Seeds are easy to sow, so you should try to plant them fairly regularly, at least every 15 cm, it is better to keep a distance of 40 cm.
The second harvest - growing chard for the autumn harvest, the seeds are sown in the ground from July.
When planting seeds in the ground with a shovel holder, we make a small depression, sow the seeds and manually lightly sprinkle with a thin layer of earth. Watering.
After emergence, the plants are thinned out, leaving them in a row every 7-8 cm, then every 20-30 cm, using the uprooted plants for consumption.
Landing is carried out in the spring (end of April-beginning of May) or no later than September. You should choose a semi-shady or even shady place.
It grows well on moist soils, including waterlogged and excessively wet.
It grows well on moist soils, including waterlogged and excessively wet.
Cucumber grass should be sown in May or November. But some also sow during the summer period, if you do not need to receive flowers or seeds, but only juicy greens are grown. Thus, the sown borage grass will delight with seedlings until the very frost.
Seeds are placed in the ground without prior preparation. The backlog is carried out to a depth of 1.5–3 cm. It is recommended to keep up to 40–45 cm between rows. It is best when there are 3–4 seeds per 1 m2. When seedlings appear (usually after 10–12 days), they should be thinned so that the distance between the seedlings remains 15–20 cm.
If you want to get early greens of borage grass, then you can sow the seeds in pots filled with fertile soil at the end of March, and after 3-4 leaf plates unfold on the seedlings, then borage seedlings are transplanted into open ground. In this case, it is necessary to cover the planted young plants with a transparent plastic film. To obtain a borage crop in late autumn, seeds are sown in August. Sowing seeds in several stages is justified by the fact that growing up, the foliage of the borage becomes brown and rough, it is no longer used in food.
Borage does not require a lot of light, so in the garden it can be placed in the shade under the trees next to the walls, as the foliage will dry out from direct sunlight. At home, the borago is even placed on the windowsill of the north window, and it has enough lighting there in the winter. Any soil is suitable, but it is better when it has fertile qualities and friability, slightly acidic (pH 5–6) or neutral (pH 6.5–7).
Seeds are placed in the ground without prior preparation. The backlog is carried out to a depth of 1.5–3 cm. It is recommended to keep up to 40–45 cm between rows. It is best when there are 3–4 seeds per 1 m2. When seedlings appear (usually after 10–12 days), they should be thinned so that the distance between the seedlings remains 15–20 cm.
If you want to get early greens of borage grass, then you can sow the seeds in pots filled with fertile soil at the end of March, and after 3-4 leaf plates unfold on the seedlings, then borage seedlings are transplanted into open ground. In this case, it is necessary to cover the planted young plants with a transparent plastic film. To obtain a borage crop in late autumn, seeds are sown in August. Sowing seeds in several stages is justified by the fact that growing up, the foliage of the borage becomes brown and rough, it is no longer used in food.
Borage does not require a lot of light, so in the garden it can be placed in the shade under the trees next to the walls, as the foliage will dry out from direct sunlight. At home, the borago is even placed on the windowsill of the north window, and it has enough lighting there in the winter. Any soil is suitable, but it is better when it has fertile qualities and friability, slightly acidic (pH 5–6) or neutral (pH 6.5–7).
Seeds of rush in the form of small granules are planted to obtain seedlings in January-March. They are slightly pressed into moist soil and additionally sprayed with water. Crops are covered with a film to create greenhouse conditions. Until the sprouts appear, you need to constantly monitor the soil moisture and ventilate the greenhouse. After the appearance of the leaves, the film is removed, the picking of the seedlings is carried out when 3-4 leaves are formed.
When growing, you need to take into account the main feature of the rush - the culture is very moisture-loving. In the garden, it is better to plant it in the coastal zone near the water, no deeper than 5 cm. If there are permanent wet places on the site, often flooded, then this is the most suitable place for planting. If there is no source of constant moisture, the rush is placed in a container that is buried in the ground, so the moisture is retained at the roots longer. A win-win option is to grow rush in room conditions, where it takes root better, and transfer it to open ground in the middle of the season. In winter, during severe frosts, it is better to cover the plant with polyethylene, but if the winter is mild, the rush does well even without shelter.
When growing, you need to take into account the main feature of the rush - the culture is very moisture-loving. In the garden, it is better to plant it in the coastal zone near the water, no deeper than 5 cm. If there are permanent wet places on the site, often flooded, then this is the most suitable place for planting. If there is no source of constant moisture, the rush is placed in a container that is buried in the ground, so the moisture is retained at the roots longer. A win-win option is to grow rush in room conditions, where it takes root better, and transfer it to open ground in the middle of the season. In winter, during severe frosts, it is better to cover the plant with polyethylene, but if the winter is mild, the rush does well even without shelter.
In areas with a warm climate, for long-term cultivation, dry fennel seeds are sown in July or August. It is best to sow fennel where there was an accumulation of snow in winter. Keep in mind that the plant is thermophilic and will not grow in the shade. Fennel prefers light sandy or loamy soils. The best predecessors for the plant are annual grasses, as well as winter and tilled crops. When sowing, seeds are buried by 2 cm, and the distance between rows should be at least 60 cm. If sowing is carried out in the spring, in the first decade of April, then after planting the seeds and watering, the area is covered with a film until germination occurs. On the 10th day after the appearance of seedlings, fennel seeds are thinned out so that green varieties are in a row at a distance of 10-15 cm from each other, and vegetables - 20-30 cm. In areas with a harsh climate, it is better to use seedling propagation method culture.
Cold stratification is required for 5-6 months. Seeding is superficial. The seeds are photosensitive.
It is preferable to choose sunny, well-lit areas for it. It will grow on any garden poor soil, but preferably without stagnant moisture.
Sowing is recommended in mid-April, as the plant develops quite quickly. Use light soil that is permeable to air and moisture. Pour it into small boxes in an even layer of 5-8 cm and moisten with a spray bottle. Do not bury the seeds, but gently scatter them over the surface, sprinkle with soil on top with a layer of 1 cm. It is best to make a small greenhouse and close the box with polyethylene. Flax does not like waterlogging.
Shoots will appear in 7-10 days. As soon as the seedlings have the first pair of true leaves, they should be dived into separate pots, about 7 cm in diameter and the same depth. Flax has a strong root system of the rod type, so we recommend not to delay the seating. The further, the more difficult it will be to separate the plants from each other without damaging them.
Sowing is recommended in mid-April, as the plant develops quite quickly. Use light soil that is permeable to air and moisture. Pour it into small boxes in an even layer of 5-8 cm and moisten with a spray bottle. Do not bury the seeds, but gently scatter them over the surface, sprinkle with soil on top with a layer of 1 cm. It is best to make a small greenhouse and close the box with polyethylene. Flax does not like waterlogging.
Shoots will appear in 7-10 days. As soon as the seedlings have the first pair of true leaves, they should be dived into separate pots, about 7 cm in diameter and the same depth. Flax has a strong root system of the rod type, so we recommend not to delay the seating. The further, the more difficult it will be to separate the plants from each other without damaging them.
Stratification is not required. Seeding is superficial. The seeds are photosensitive. The optimal time for sowing seeds is 1-1.5 months before the onset of stable cold weather. When sowing in winter, the seeds are scarified. They are sown with row spacing of 60 cm, planting to a depth of 2.5-3 cm. Care of crops consists in loosening the soil 4-5 times to a depth of 5-8 cm and weeding.
Light and thermophilic, drought-resistant. Prefers well-drained soils.
Chumiza is an annual flower and fodder plant. Chumiza is undemanding to moisture. It grows best on black soil, but it also succeeds on fertile sandy soils and peat bogs. Chumizu is sown when the soil at the seeding depth warms up to + 10-12 degrees. Seeds begin to germinate at plus 10 degrees. I close up the seeds of chumiza to a depth of 3-4 cm. Since the seeds are small, for uniform sowing it is better to mix them with dry river sand. Sowing is carried out in the usual way. Row spacing is 30 cm. Chumiza shoots appear in 7-10 days. Plant care consists of watering, loosening row spacing, thinning, fertilizing, removing weeds. Seedlings develop very slowly at first, so you need to make sure that the soil is cleared of weeds. If the shoots are thickened, timely thinning is carried out, leaving one plant after 3-4 cm. Row spacing is loosened immediately after rain or watering.
Chumiza is an annual flower and fodder plant. Chumiza is undemanding to moisture. It grows best on black soil, but it also succeeds on fertile sandy soils and peat bogs. Chumizu is sown when the soil at the seeding depth warms up to + 10-12 degrees. Seeds begin to germinate at plus 10 degrees. I close up the seeds of chumiza to a depth of 3-4 cm. Since the seeds are small, for uniform sowing it is better to mix them with dry river sand. Sowing is carried out in the usual way. Row spacing is 30 cm. Chumiza shoots appear in 7-10 days. Plant care consists of watering, loosening row spacing, thinning, fertilizing, removing weeds. Seedlings develop very slowly at first, so you need to make sure that the soil is cleared of weeds. If the shoots are thickened, timely thinning is carried out, leaving one plant after 3-4 cm. Row spacing is loosened immediately after rain or watering.
Recommended stratif. at 4° for 3–3.5 months
Planting is best done in the spring - for seed germination, it is necessary to provide a temperature of 20-25 degrees Celsius and a moist substrate.
Terms of sowing gravel:
In greenhouses - gravilate seeds are sown in pots in the fall and stored in greenhouse conditions during the winter, in the spring, with a sufficient level of humidity, they will give a new seedling that can be transplanted into a flower bed.
At home - can be sown in the spring, 8 weeks before the end of frost.
In open ground - from late spring to late summer.
The time for sowing seeds also depends on the expected date of receipt of a flowering plant:
- if we sow seeds in the period from February to May, we will get flowering plants from May to August;
- when sowing seeds from June to August, flowering plants are obtained next year, from April.
Before sowing, before the stratification of seeds, it is necessary to soak them in gibberellic acid. This will improve the germination rate.
Sowing seeds and growing seedlings of gravilata:
As a soil for growing seedlings, you can use a peat substrate with a small clay content (15-30%). The reaction of the substrate should be pH 5.5-6.5. Seeds are best sown in multi-cell cassettes with 2-3 seeds per cell. They are covered with a small amount of vermiculite, which will provide sufficient moisture. The recommended temperature during the germination period is 21-24 ° C, seedlings will appear in 20-30 days. After germination, the temperature should be reduced to 16-18 °C. 3-5 weeks after germination, plants can be dived singly into pots with a diameter of 12-13 cm or 2-3 seedlings into pots with a diameter of more than 15 cm. After planting in pots, it is advisable to maintain the temperature at 12-18 ° C. It is worth adding a multi-component fertilizer with a slow release of nutrients to the substrate at a dose of 1.5-3 kg / m³.
Planting is best done in the spring - for seed germination, it is necessary to provide a temperature of 20-25 degrees Celsius and a moist substrate.
Terms of sowing gravel:
In greenhouses - gravilate seeds are sown in pots in the fall and stored in greenhouse conditions during the winter, in the spring, with a sufficient level of humidity, they will give a new seedling that can be transplanted into a flower bed.
At home - can be sown in the spring, 8 weeks before the end of frost.
In open ground - from late spring to late summer.
The time for sowing seeds also depends on the expected date of receipt of a flowering plant:
- if we sow seeds in the period from February to May, we will get flowering plants from May to August;
- when sowing seeds from June to August, flowering plants are obtained next year, from April.
Before sowing, before the stratification of seeds, it is necessary to soak them in gibberellic acid. This will improve the germination rate.
Sowing seeds and growing seedlings of gravilata:
As a soil for growing seedlings, you can use a peat substrate with a small clay content (15-30%). The reaction of the substrate should be pH 5.5-6.5. Seeds are best sown in multi-cell cassettes with 2-3 seeds per cell. They are covered with a small amount of vermiculite, which will provide sufficient moisture. The recommended temperature during the germination period is 21-24 ° C, seedlings will appear in 20-30 days. After germination, the temperature should be reduced to 16-18 °C. 3-5 weeks after germination, plants can be dived singly into pots with a diameter of 12-13 cm or 2-3 seedlings into pots with a diameter of more than 15 cm. After planting in pots, it is advisable to maintain the temperature at 12-18 ° C. It is worth adding a multi-component fertilizer with a slow release of nutrients to the substrate at a dose of 1.5-3 kg / m³.
Stratification is not required. Seeding is superficial.
Grooves are made in the soil with a depth of 0.5 to 1 cm (or superficially, lightly sprinkled), leaving a distance between rows of at least 50 cm. They are shed with settled water. Lofant seeds are carefully laid out after a certain distance. Fall asleep with a layer of earth of a small thickness. Watering again.
Sprouts appear on the 12-16th day. As soon as young seedlings form 2-3 pairs of true leaves, the plantings are thinned out, trying to keep at least 25 cm between the nearest "neighbors". When planting seeds in the fall, they should be protected as much as possible from the upcoming cold weather. To do this, the beds are mulched with a large layer of compost, spruce branches, straw. Only this natural "insulation" does not need to be tightly packed so that the seeds do not suffocate.
Grooves are made in the soil with a depth of 0.5 to 1 cm (or superficially, lightly sprinkled), leaving a distance between rows of at least 50 cm. They are shed with settled water. Lofant seeds are carefully laid out after a certain distance. Fall asleep with a layer of earth of a small thickness. Watering again.
Sprouts appear on the 12-16th day. As soon as young seedlings form 2-3 pairs of true leaves, the plantings are thinned out, trying to keep at least 25 cm between the nearest "neighbors". When planting seeds in the fall, they should be protected as much as possible from the upcoming cold weather. To do this, the beds are mulched with a large layer of compost, spruce branches, straw. Only this natural "insulation" does not need to be tightly packed so that the seeds do not suffocate.
Before sowing timothy grass, soil preparation is carried out. It is cleared of weeds, cultivated and applied with nitrogen fertilizers or manure. If the seeds are sown in early spring, the soil is harrowed to a depth of 25 cm. It is necessary to consider when to sow timothy grass. This can be done both in spring and autumn. In the first case, sowing is carried out in April, the seeds begin to germinate after 7-8 days. Timothy meadow is sown in a continuous way, standard for cereal crops. The optimal planting depth is 1-2 cm. To obtain seeds, the wide-row method with an interval of at least 50-70 cm is considered the most effective option.
Stratification is not required. Sowing to a depth of 0.5-1 cm.
The plant is relatively cold-resistant, can tolerate short-term light frosts, but a long-term cold snap during germination with an abundance of precipitation causes rotting of plants and their death. The snakehead is photophilous, prefers sunlit areas. If you grow a snakehead in the shade, then its aroma will be significantly lower than in the sun. The plant in the initial period of growth requires a lot of moisture, but tolerates drought during the period of full flowering. However, with a lack of moisture in late June-early July, during the period of intensive growth, a strong decrease in the yield of above-ground mass is observed.
The bed is dug up in the fall and at the same time 15-20 g of superphosphate and 12-15 g of potassium salt per square meter are applied, and when digging in the spring, an additional 10-15 g of nitrogen fertilizers are added. The snakehead seeds are small, they do not need any pre-sowing preparation. In no case should snakehead seeds be soaked in order to speed up germination. When it enters the water, the mucus on their surface swells, and they turn into slippery balls, which, upon further drying, clump into a dense mass that is no longer possible to sow.
The snakehead is sown in the first decade of May to a depth of 0.5-1 cm. It is better to shed the furrows with water before sowing. The distance between the rows is 45-50 cm. Seedlings appear after 10 or 15 days, depending on the weather. Please note that there is no crust in the garden, otherwise you may not wait for the shoots.
The first month and a half, the snakehead grows very slowly: timely weeding and loosening are necessary. But then it develops quickly, and weeds are no longer afraid of it. The plant is not demanding on moisture, however, two or three plentiful waterings in a dry summer will increase the yield and quality of the grass.
The plant is relatively cold-resistant, can tolerate short-term light frosts, but a long-term cold snap during germination with an abundance of precipitation causes rotting of plants and their death. The snakehead is photophilous, prefers sunlit areas. If you grow a snakehead in the shade, then its aroma will be significantly lower than in the sun. The plant in the initial period of growth requires a lot of moisture, but tolerates drought during the period of full flowering. However, with a lack of moisture in late June-early July, during the period of intensive growth, a strong decrease in the yield of above-ground mass is observed.
The bed is dug up in the fall and at the same time 15-20 g of superphosphate and 12-15 g of potassium salt per square meter are applied, and when digging in the spring, an additional 10-15 g of nitrogen fertilizers are added. The snakehead seeds are small, they do not need any pre-sowing preparation. In no case should snakehead seeds be soaked in order to speed up germination. When it enters the water, the mucus on their surface swells, and they turn into slippery balls, which, upon further drying, clump into a dense mass that is no longer possible to sow.
The snakehead is sown in the first decade of May to a depth of 0.5-1 cm. It is better to shed the furrows with water before sowing. The distance between the rows is 45-50 cm. Seedlings appear after 10 or 15 days, depending on the weather. Please note that there is no crust in the garden, otherwise you may not wait for the shoots.
The first month and a half, the snakehead grows very slowly: timely weeding and loosening are necessary. But then it develops quickly, and weeds are no longer afraid of it. The plant is not demanding on moisture, however, two or three plentiful waterings in a dry summer will increase the yield and quality of the grass.
1. You will need forest land. It should be from under an old tree, preferably coniferous. We need mycorrhiza mushrooms, which are part of this land.
2. If it was not possible to stock up on land before sowing, then do it as soon as possible and add it to the soil in which you grow wintergreen.
3. There is one more trick. We spread the seeds on the surface of the soil, sprinkle, cover and put in the refrigerator. Wintergreen seeds need stratification.
4. After a couple of months, you can take out the container and put it in a warm place and in the light.
5. When sprouts appear, remove the lid gradually! Add ten minutes every day.
2. If it was not possible to stock up on land before sowing, then do it as soon as possible and add it to the soil in which you grow wintergreen.
3. There is one more trick. We spread the seeds on the surface of the soil, sprinkle, cover and put in the refrigerator. Wintergreen seeds need stratification.
4. After a couple of months, you can take out the container and put it in a warm place and in the light.
5. When sprouts appear, remove the lid gradually! Add ten minutes every day.
Propagated by seeds - sowing in the spring on the spot. Most seeds usually germinate within a few days of sowing. An easy-to-grow plant that grows well in most soils but does not like shade. Prefers moderately fertile soil. Maintains pH in the range from 4.5 to 8.3. In moderation, this plant is a good companion for potatoes, corn, and cucurbits. The plant reacts directly to the magnesium content of the soil, so it can be used to detect the presence of this element.
Sowing begins at the end of March, as soon as the soil is ripe. The seeds are large enough, so you can plant decorative fescue one seed at a distance of 10-15 cm. Seeding depth is 2-3 cm. Lawn grasses are simply scattered evenly over the surface of the earth and covered with a rake. In the spring, there is enough moisture in the ground for the plants to germinate. But if you want to speed up the process, you can occasionally water the bed, however, avoiding overflow and the formation of an earthen crust. When shoots appear, you need to remove the weeds and loosen the soil. Fescue grows and develops very quickly, so by the end of summer you will get full-fledged bushes.
You can grow fescue through seedlings. To do this, at the end of February, seedlings are prepared, filled with loose earth. Plant 1-2 seeds in each cup and lightly water. The place should be chosen warm and well lit, better south or east windows. Remember that moisture stagnation is unacceptable, so there must be drainage holes in the bottom of the cups, and excess water from the pan must be drained. Plants grow and develop quite quickly. Already in April, provided there are no frosts, fescue seedlings are planted in a flower bed using the transshipment method. The distance between the holes is about 15 cm.
You can grow fescue through seedlings. To do this, at the end of February, seedlings are prepared, filled with loose earth. Plant 1-2 seeds in each cup and lightly water. The place should be chosen warm and well lit, better south or east windows. Remember that moisture stagnation is unacceptable, so there must be drainage holes in the bottom of the cups, and excess water from the pan must be drained. Plants grow and develop quite quickly. Already in April, provided there are no frosts, fescue seedlings are planted in a flower bed using the transshipment method. The distance between the holes is about 15 cm.
Seeds germinate most successfully at temperatures not lower than 30-35°C. After dry storage for 6 months, the seeds acquire the ability to germinate in a wider temperature range. Cold stratification stimulates the germination of dormant seeds. It is better to germinate in open ground, as the seeds germinate for a long time and in a pot can turn sour and deteriorate. Just plant in the ground, water periodically. After two months, sprouts will appear.
Seeds germinate only after prolonged stratification. It is most convenient to sow them before winter, but it is necessary to choose a place where the seeds will not float away in the spring with melt waters.
When grown through seedlings, the seeds are mixed with wet sand or peat and stratified in the refrigerator for 2-3 months. It is better to sow one seed at a time of 3 cm and 5 cm between rows. The seeds should be sprinkled with a layer of soil no more than 1 cm, moistened and covered with film, placed in a warm place where the temperature is +20-25C. Ventilate regularly, do not allow the soil to dry out or become sour from dampness! When seedlings appear, move the boxes to a cooler place, where it is about +16-20C and very light.
You can plant seedlings at the end of May, when the threat of spring frosts has passed.
The shoots of decorative onions are as thin as the shoots of onions grown from nigella. In the first year, only a tiny bulb is formed, no more than 0.5 cm in diameter. Next year it will produce only one true leaf. Plant development is very slow.
Ornamental onions grown from seeds bloom in the 3-5th year.
Subsequently, to obtain large flower heads, it is worth adding complex mineral fertilizer or wood ash to the soil when planting; it contains potassium, the most important nutrient for onions.
When grown through seedlings, the seeds are mixed with wet sand or peat and stratified in the refrigerator for 2-3 months. It is better to sow one seed at a time of 3 cm and 5 cm between rows. The seeds should be sprinkled with a layer of soil no more than 1 cm, moistened and covered with film, placed in a warm place where the temperature is +20-25C. Ventilate regularly, do not allow the soil to dry out or become sour from dampness! When seedlings appear, move the boxes to a cooler place, where it is about +16-20C and very light.
You can plant seedlings at the end of May, when the threat of spring frosts has passed.
The shoots of decorative onions are as thin as the shoots of onions grown from nigella. In the first year, only a tiny bulb is formed, no more than 0.5 cm in diameter. Next year it will produce only one true leaf. Plant development is very slow.
Ornamental onions grown from seeds bloom in the 3-5th year.
Subsequently, to obtain large flower heads, it is worth adding complex mineral fertilizer or wood ash to the soil when planting; it contains potassium, the most important nutrient for onions.
Stratification is not required. Sowing to a depth of 0.5 cm.
Stratification is not required. Sowing to a depth of 0.5-1 cm.
Seeds can be sown in open ground in April-May, or you can first grow hyssop seedlings, for which seeds are sown without prior stratification in seedlings with fertile soil in the first half of March, in grooves located at a distance of 5-10 cm from each other. Contain crops covered with transparent plastic wrap in a warm place. Shoots appear in a couple of weeks. Care for hyssop during the seedling period consists in regular moistening of the soil and top dressing. At the development stage, seedlings have 5-6 true leaves, they are planted in open ground, but two weeks before planting, the seedlings are hardened, exposing them to the open air daily. At first, the hardening session lasts no more than half an hour, but gradually the duration of such “walks” increases until the seed hyssop can stay in the new environment for a whole day. In one place, hyssop can grow up to 10 years, so you need to choose a site for the plant responsibly. Hyssop loves the sun and moderately moist, well-drained calcareous soil, into which, in advance, in the fall, manure, potash salt and a little superphosphate are added for deep digging. Salt and swampy areas, as well as those where groundwater is too close to the surface, are unsuitable for the plant. Hyssop is planted in open ground at the age of 45-60 days in the second half of May, when the threat of return frosts has passed. Hyssop is planted in loose soil in increments of 8-10 cm with row spacing of 25-30 cm. After planting, the area is watered.
Seeds can be sown in open ground in April-May, or you can first grow hyssop seedlings, for which seeds are sown without prior stratification in seedlings with fertile soil in the first half of March, in grooves located at a distance of 5-10 cm from each other. Contain crops covered with transparent plastic wrap in a warm place. Shoots appear in a couple of weeks. Care for hyssop during the seedling period consists in regular moistening of the soil and top dressing. At the development stage, seedlings have 5-6 true leaves, they are planted in open ground, but two weeks before planting, the seedlings are hardened, exposing them to the open air daily. At first, the hardening session lasts no more than half an hour, but gradually the duration of such “walks” increases until the seed hyssop can stay in the new environment for a whole day. In one place, hyssop can grow up to 10 years, so you need to choose a site for the plant responsibly. Hyssop loves the sun and moderately moist, well-drained calcareous soil, into which, in advance, in the fall, manure, potash salt and a little superphosphate are added for deep digging. Salt and swampy areas, as well as those where groundwater is too close to the surface, are unsuitable for the plant. Hyssop is planted in open ground at the age of 45-60 days in the second half of May, when the threat of return frosts has passed. Hyssop is planted in loose soil in increments of 8-10 cm with row spacing of 25-30 cm. After planting, the area is watered.
Perennial ryegrass is grown from seeds that are sown directly in open ground. Before planting, you need to prepare the site. Remove weeds and large stones, dig up the soil so that it has time to settle before sowing. Shortly before sowing, it is required to additionally compact the soil and level the surface. Immediately after the snow melts, it is necessary to loosen the soil to retain moisture; seeds are best applied to moist soil; from fertilizers for ryegrass it is better to choose phosphorus and potash.
After light loosening, the seed is evenly distributed over the sown area, no further processing is required. In regions with a cool climate, it will not be superfluous to harrow the site and deepen the seeds by 2-3 cm. Shoots appear after 7-8 days, but may appear 2-4 days later if the weather is dry or cold.
After light loosening, the seed is evenly distributed over the sown area, no further processing is required. In regions with a cool climate, it will not be superfluous to harrow the site and deepen the seeds by 2-3 cm. Shoots appear after 7-8 days, but may appear 2-4 days later if the weather is dry or cold.
Most often, marjoram is grown in seedlings, since small seeds of the plant may not germinate in open ground. Marjoram seeds, previously mixed with dry sand in a ratio of 1:5, are sown in early April in seedling boxes with a substrate of humus and soddy soil in a ratio of 1:2 with the addition of crushed chalk. Grooves in a well-moistened substrate are placed at a distance of 4-5 cm from each other, and the seeds are planted to a depth of 2-3 mm, sprinkled with dry earth through a sieve. Crops covered with glass or a film dome are placed at a temperature of 20-22 ºC in anticipation of germination, and when sprouts appear in about two to three weeks, the cover is removed, the temperature is lowered to 12-16 ºC for a week, and then such a temperature regime is set : during the day 18-20 ºC, at night - 14-16 ºC. From the moment the seedlings emerge, marjoram is watered at home as needed, so that the substrate is always in a slightly damp state, the soil is loosened from time to time. When the seedlings develop a pair of first true leaves in early May, the seedlings dive according to the 5x5 or 6x6 cm pattern into a warm greenhouse or greenhouse. There they grow up to transplant to the garden. But if you managed to sow the seeds with a good pitch, picking the seedlings may not be necessary. A week and a half before planting in open ground, the seedlings are hardened, removing the film for some time every day so that the seedlings get used to the environment in which they will soon find themselves. The duration of the hardening procedures is increased daily until the seedlings can spend in the fresh air around the clock. The number of waterings during hardening is also gradually reduced.
Salvia red perennial blooms when it reaches the age of 2-3 months after sowing the seeds. Therefore, a plant is planted in early March or late February in order to decorate your front garden with beautiful flowering bushes by the beginning of summer. Growing salvia requires seeds and nutrient soil. Germination of seeds is quite high, lasts up to 4-5 years. Since planting material does not need stratification, their preparation is carried out just before sowing.
Stratification is not required. Seeding is superficial. Reproduction by seeds is carried out directly in open ground in autumn or sown on seedlings in early spring. Before the onset of significant cooling, a bed is prepared, it is carefully leveled and grooves are made at a distance of 15 cm from one another. It is advisable to leave at least 5 cm between the seeds laid out at the bottom of the grooves. The crops are covered with earth and mulched with humus from above. If, nevertheless, the seedlings that appeared in the spring turn out to be thick, you will have to thin them out: pull out the weak ones, and leave the stronger ones. For seedlings, seeds are sown in containers at the end of February or in early March. For crops, a soil mixture is prepared from garden soil and sand, taken in equal parts. The distance between adjacent seeds is maintained up to 3 cm. The seeds are not deeply buried. Crops are covered with plastic wrap on top, the containers are transferred to a warm and moderately lit place. Air them regularly and spray the soil. When 2 true leaves are formed at the sprouting shoots, the seedlings, together with a lump of earth, are transferred into separate pots and grown to a size of 10-12 cm.
Gentian is sown in open ground at the end of April or at the end of September. If you are going to sow gentian seeds in the ground in the spring, they must first be stratified for 2-3 months at a temperature not exceeding 7 ˚C in good ventilation. Seeds of some species are sufficient for stratification at low temperature and one month, but seed material of highland species must be subjected to stratification for at least 60-80 days. Before being placed in the vegetable box of the refrigerator, the seeds are mixed with granulated peat or fine sand in a ratio of 1:3. If you are sowing gentian seeds before winter, then you do not need to stratify them, as they will be processed by low temperatures during the winter months in a natural way. Small seeds are scattered over the surface of the leveled earth and only slightly pressed against the soil, without being embedded in it. It is advisable to still sprinkle large seeds on top of the earth. When planting seedlings grown in seedlings at home, place them at a distance of 15-30 cm from each other. After planting, do not forget to water the area. In one place, gentian has been growing for seven or more years.