Agrotechnics for Growing Flowers from Seeds
Complete instructions for growing flowers from seeds: sowing dates, soil preparation, pricking out, and planting.
Seeds need to be stratified in two stages: I. at 18 - 20°C for 5 months for germ development and II. at 5°C to eliminate the dormancy of the epicotyl.
18 - 20° for 5 months for germination and germination, and at 5° for elimination of epicotyl dormancy. When sown outdoors, they will germinate in the second year.
The seeds are stratified at home for 7.5 months. They are placed in a small container filled with damp sand and stored for 2.5 months at 20 ⁰C. The seed should be kept in the refrigerator for the remaining 5 months. The container will then be kept warm and watered regularly, so that the seedlings will sprout after a while. The seedlings will be moved out into the open soil after 2 years.
18 - 20° for 5 months for germination and germination, and at 5° for elimination of epicotyl dormancy. When sown outdoors, they will germinate in the second year.
The seeds are stratified at home for 7.5 months. They are placed in a small container filled with damp sand and stored for 2.5 months at 20 ⁰C. The seed should be kept in the refrigerator for the remaining 5 months. The container will then be kept warm and watered regularly, so that the seedlings will sprout after a while. The seedlings will be moved out into the open soil after 2 years.
The seeds will germinate at a temperature of 5 ºC. The seeds are sown in March in greenhouses in a soil consisting of 2-3 parts sand and one part sod and one part mulch. Sprouts appear in two to three weeks. Seeds of perennials are sown in autumn in growing boxes with substrate and bury the containers in the snow and keep in a cold cellar until then. Sprouts will not start to appear until the following spring, when the air will have warmed to 20 ºC. But some seeds do not germinate until a year later.
Seeds need a two-stage stratification: I. at 18-20° for 5 months for germination and germination, and II. at 5° to eliminate dormancy of the epicotyl. When sown outdoors, they will germinate in the second year.
The seeds are stratified at home for 7.5 months. They are placed in a small container filled with damp sand and stored for 2.5 months at 20 ⁰C. The seed should be kept in the refrigerator for the remaining 5 months. The container will then be kept warm and watered regularly, so that the seedlings will sprout after a while. The seedlings will be moved out into the open soil after 2 years.
The seeds are stratified at home for 7.5 months. They are placed in a small container filled with damp sand and stored for 2.5 months at 20 ⁰C. The seed should be kept in the refrigerator for the remaining 5 months. The container will then be kept warm and watered regularly, so that the seedlings will sprout after a while. The seedlings will be moved out into the open soil after 2 years.
The night beauty flower is propagated by seeds that should be scarified before sowing, i.e. their hard shell should be slightly damaged with a file or emery paper. The seeds of the nocturnal beauty are then placed in a thermos with warm water for 24 hours. When to sow mirabilis? Sow mirabilis seeds in early or mid-April in cups filled with a light neutral or slightly alkaline soil: You can buy ready-made soil at the shop, but you can make the substrate yourself by mixing two parts turf and peat, one part humus or compost, half-washed sand and adding for every 5 litres of the resulting mixture by half a cup of wood ash or 2 tablespoons of dolomite flour. Fill the cups ¾ full, compact the mixture and water liberally with the fungicide solution. Two seeds are placed in each cup, covered with a layer of loose soil 1-1.5 cm thick and sprayed with water from a fine sprayer.
Place the seeds in a greenhouse and keep them at a temperature of 18-20 ºC. Home cultivation Sprouts will begin to emerge after 5-6 days, and once this has occurred, remove the cover from the mirabilis and move the seedlings as close to light as possible. When the seedlings have developed their first true leaf, cut off the weaker seedling in each pot at ground level so that it does not impede the development of the stronger one. Around this time, apply the first fertiliser such as Rastorin, Fertica or Krepush.
Place the seeds in a greenhouse and keep them at a temperature of 18-20 ºC. Home cultivation Sprouts will begin to emerge after 5-6 days, and once this has occurred, remove the cover from the mirabilis and move the seedlings as close to light as possible. When the seedlings have developed their first true leaf, cut off the weaker seedling in each pot at ground level so that it does not impede the development of the stronger one. Around this time, apply the first fertiliser such as Rastorin, Fertica or Krepush.
To speed up germination, soak the seed in Epin, Zircon, Heteroauxin or another growth stimulator. An aloe leaf can also be used (the plant must be at least 3 years old). Keep it in the refrigerator for a few days, then cut it open and place some lion's wort seeds in the centre. After two hours, take it out and dry it. There is no need to rinse.
Growing seedlings of lion's-throat does not go without preparing containers. Choose convenient low containers or individual pots, disinfect them in manganese beforehand. Be sure to make drainage in the containers.
Use commercially available potting soil (but not pure peat, since snapdragons are not big fans of peat) or make your own potting soil. Mix sand, compost and peat in equal proportions. You can also add some wood ash to the soil. It should be steamed before sowing to reduce the risk of seed rot, and sieved to make it easier for the seeds to germinate.
Then fill the containers with potting soil and moisten them. Mix the fine anti-rhinum seeds with the sand so that they spread more evenly over the soil surface, sow them, cover with soil, then moisten with a spray gun and cover the container with foil or glass. Put the pot in a warm, well-lit place.
Growing seedlings of lion's-throat does not go without preparing containers. Choose convenient low containers or individual pots, disinfect them in manganese beforehand. Be sure to make drainage in the containers.
Use commercially available potting soil (but not pure peat, since snapdragons are not big fans of peat) or make your own potting soil. Mix sand, compost and peat in equal proportions. You can also add some wood ash to the soil. It should be steamed before sowing to reduce the risk of seed rot, and sieved to make it easier for the seeds to germinate.
Then fill the containers with potting soil and moisten them. Mix the fine anti-rhinum seeds with the sand so that they spread more evenly over the soil surface, sow them, cover with soil, then moisten with a spray gun and cover the container with foil or glass. Put the pot in a warm, well-lit place.
Planting lobelia seedlings is easy, but remember that the seeds are very small and must be handled with care so as not to spill them over.
For the rest, here's a step-by-step guide to planting lobelia:
1. One day before the event, fill the planting containers with soil, compact a little and water well.
2. level the soil surface well.
3. Mix the seeds with a small amount of clean river sand (it will help to achieve a more even planting).
4. gently spread the seeds on a white piece of paper which has been folded in half (this will help to spread them out easily). Alternatively, you can use a toothpick (moisten one end with water, pick it up and flick the other end into the soil with the toothpick).
5. Now sow the seeds evenly over the soil surface. Try not to plant too densely by sowing too many seeds in one place.
6. After planting, water with a sprayer using clean room temperature water.
7. Cover the seeds with a lid, glass or foil and place them in a warm, bright place.
You can sow in a common box in rows, with a spacing between the furrows of about 2-3 centimetres. This method will make it easier to care for the plants in the future.
For faster germination of the seedlings, you can spray the soil with a growth-promoting solution such as Zircon or Epin.
For the rest, here's a step-by-step guide to planting lobelia:
1. One day before the event, fill the planting containers with soil, compact a little and water well.
2. level the soil surface well.
3. Mix the seeds with a small amount of clean river sand (it will help to achieve a more even planting).
4. gently spread the seeds on a white piece of paper which has been folded in half (this will help to spread them out easily). Alternatively, you can use a toothpick (moisten one end with water, pick it up and flick the other end into the soil with the toothpick).
5. Now sow the seeds evenly over the soil surface. Try not to plant too densely by sowing too many seeds in one place.
6. After planting, water with a sprayer using clean room temperature water.
7. Cover the seeds with a lid, glass or foil and place them in a warm, bright place.
You can sow in a common box in rows, with a spacing between the furrows of about 2-3 centimetres. This method will make it easier to care for the plants in the future.
For faster germination of the seedlings, you can spray the soil with a growth-promoting solution such as Zircon or Epin.
For March sowing and flowering in the first year, apply stratification through a refrigerator, keeping the seedlings in it for 2-3 weeks; then transfer to room conditions, at +20-22°C sprouting will appear on 14-20 days.
At the same time treat the seeds with any kind of stimulant (normally Zircon or Epin, or succinic acid, or you can use HB-101 in combination with Energen Aqua) and sow in a "snail" (self-tiller) without soil.
Thus, when sown on a paper towel in the "snail" seeds of perennial rudbeckia begin to germinate on the second day, the rest are pulled up on the fourth or fifth day. Sprouting occurs on the next day or two after the seeds have sprouted.
At the same time treat the seeds with any kind of stimulant (normally Zircon or Epin, or succinic acid, or you can use HB-101 in combination with Energen Aqua) and sow in a "snail" (self-tiller) without soil.
Thus, when sown on a paper towel in the "snail" seeds of perennial rudbeckia begin to germinate on the second day, the rest are pulled up on the fourth or fifth day. Sprouting occurs on the next day or two after the seeds have sprouted.
The seeds are sown in February or March. Spread the coarse seeds on a moist substrate and only cover them lightly with vermiculite, although this does not have to be done. Keep the seeds in a light place at a temperature of 20-23 ºC, protecting them from direct sunlight and moistening the soil as necessary. It will take about a week or two for the seedlings to emerge.
Sow daisies from seed in June, directly into moist soil, but with a little sand or sifted mulch, as the seeds need sunlight and a temperature of around 20ºC to germinate. Under these conditions you can expect the first sprouts in a week. If you cover the unseeded seeds with a transparent foil, the germination will be activated, and it does not matter how deep you go - the seedlings will sprout anyway. After two days, the foil can be removed and the seedlings lightly covered with soil.
The seedlings develop very quickly, so they will soon need to be picked, which is carried out directly in the open ground according to the scheme 20x20. Daisies will flower from seed only next spring, as they only have time this year to accrue rosettes from the leaves. Daisies can also be propagated by self-sowing - you will only need to thin out the seedlings in spring by removing weak or unhealthy seedlings, but with this self-propagation, the inflorescences become smaller over the years and lose their varietal qualities.
The seedlings develop very quickly, so they will soon need to be picked, which is carried out directly in the open ground according to the scheme 20x20. Daisies will flower from seed only next spring, as they only have time this year to accrue rosettes from the leaves. Daisies can also be propagated by self-sowing - you will only need to thin out the seedlings in spring by removing weak or unhealthy seedlings, but with this self-propagation, the inflorescences become smaller over the years and lose their varietal qualities.
The time for sowing the seedlings is February-March. The optimum potting soil is ready-made potting soil, which can also be steamed. Sow superficially (without covering the seeds with soil). Seed bed should be placed in a light place and covered with glass (for germination requires light and high humidity), but be sure to remove it during the day for at least 2 times 20-30 minutes. Water with room-temperature water using a sprayer.
The temperature for seed germination is +21...+24°C.
Later on, with the emergence and development of seedlings (seedlings appear in 2 weeks), it is gradually reduced to +15 ... +18 ° C.
Water abundantly.
Fertilise with a liquid fertiliser for flowering plants at an interval of 2 weeks.
Prickling (if desired and necessary) is possible after the seedlings reach a height of 2 cm. Afterwards, the temperature should be lowered.
The temperature for seed germination is +21...+24°C.
Later on, with the emergence and development of seedlings (seedlings appear in 2 weeks), it is gradually reduced to +15 ... +18 ° C.
Water abundantly.
Fertilise with a liquid fertiliser for flowering plants at an interval of 2 weeks.
Prickling (if desired and necessary) is possible after the seedlings reach a height of 2 cm. Afterwards, the temperature should be lowered.
Sow the alyssum in the ground at the beginning of May to a depth of 1.5 cm and thin it out when the seedlings have emerged in a continuous carpet. But if you sow them in the spring, flowering will be delayed. You can sow seeds in November - they will pass natural stratification over the winter and you will get sturdy, healthy shoots which will flower in time.
But many florists still prefer the propagation method, and with good reason - it is more reliable and rarely gives rise to unpleasant surprises.
Before sowing a seedling in March/April, buy a light, nutritious, lime-poor soil (pH 5.5-6.2) and place it in the seedling box, then spread the seeds sparingly on the soil surface and bury them lightly in the same mixture, although you don't need to do this and just press the seeds against the surface. If you provide the seeds with good light, a greenhouse environment with glass or film and a temperature of 10-15 ºC with moderate moisture and airing, you can expect them to germinate in a week or even sooner.
But many florists still prefer the propagation method, and with good reason - it is more reliable and rarely gives rise to unpleasant surprises.
Before sowing a seedling in March/April, buy a light, nutritious, lime-poor soil (pH 5.5-6.2) and place it in the seedling box, then spread the seeds sparingly on the soil surface and bury them lightly in the same mixture, although you don't need to do this and just press the seeds against the surface. If you provide the seeds with good light, a greenhouse environment with glass or film and a temperature of 10-15 ºC with moderate moisture and airing, you can expect them to germinate in a week or even sooner.
Sow about two to two and a half months before heat sets in - at the end of February.
Sow the obrieta seeds in separate containers - peat tablets or peat-mulch pots - in which you will then plant the seedlings in the ground. Spread the seeds 2-3 pieces on the surface of a moist substrate, cover the top with a 3-5 mm thick layer of sand, moisten this sand cushion with a fine mist sprayer and place the seedlings under a film or glass. The optimum temperature for seed germination is 18-21 ºC.
Sow the obrieta seeds in separate containers - peat tablets or peat-mulch pots - in which you will then plant the seedlings in the ground. Spread the seeds 2-3 pieces on the surface of a moist substrate, cover the top with a 3-5 mm thick layer of sand, moisten this sand cushion with a fine mist sprayer and place the seedlings under a film or glass. The optimum temperature for seed germination is 18-21 ºC.
If you plan to plant the seedlings outdoors in May, plant the lavatera seedlings in early March. Before sowing the lavatera, drainage should be placed in the bottom of the seed boxes and seedling soil purchased at a florist should be placed on top. Then water the soil with warm water and immerse the dry seeds in it by just one centimetre, cover the seedlings with glass or foil and leave them in a bright place. Remove condensation from the glass and moisten the soil as needed. In a couple of weeks, the seedlings will emerge and may need additional light for successful growth - the seedlings will stretch and thin out if they don't get enough light. Once the seeds have germinated, the glass can be removed. Before transplanting the flower lavatera to the open field, care should be taken by periodically moistening the soil and turning the container with the seedlings around its axis to achieve even sprout development.
In warm climates, lavatera can be planted outdoors in late April or early May. Before lavatera can be planted, place a bucket of compost or humus and 2 tablespoons of nitrophoska in the soil per square metre before digging. Then the soil is levelled, 1 cm deep furrows are made, they are drenched with warm water and dry lavatera seeds are sown, and then they are covered with a mixture of garden soil and humus in equal proportions, covered and immediately covered with a transparent film. Lavatera from seed usually germinates in a week and when the seedlings reach 5 cm in height, the cover is removed, the seedlings are thinned out and the area is loosened with light hilling. If you have not been able to fertilise the garden soil before sowing the seeds, apply the first fertiliser in the form of a compound fertiliser after the cover has been removed.
In warm climates, lavatera can be planted outdoors in late April or early May. Before lavatera can be planted, place a bucket of compost or humus and 2 tablespoons of nitrophoska in the soil per square metre before digging. Then the soil is levelled, 1 cm deep furrows are made, they are drenched with warm water and dry lavatera seeds are sown, and then they are covered with a mixture of garden soil and humus in equal proportions, covered and immediately covered with a transparent film. Lavatera from seed usually germinates in a week and when the seedlings reach 5 cm in height, the cover is removed, the seedlings are thinned out and the area is loosened with light hilling. If you have not been able to fertilise the garden soil before sowing the seeds, apply the first fertiliser in the form of a compound fertiliser after the cover has been removed.
Seeds can be sown directly into the ground before winter in October or for seedlings in February-March. Seeds need to be stratified: sow seeds to a depth of 0.3 cm, moisten, cover with film and place in the refrigerator (temperature +5-+7C) for 7-10 days, then transfer to room conditions (temperature +18-+20C). It is necessary to monitor the humidity and ventilate the crops.
Seedlings appear on the 10-14th day. If there is no germination, repeat the cold-heat in the same sequence.
When 2-3 pairs of true leaves appear, seedlings are pricked out into boxes. After 4-6 weeks, seedlings are planted in open ground.
Prefers sunny places with warm, poor soil. Does not tolerate damp soils.
Seedlings appear on the 10-14th day. If there is no germination, repeat the cold-heat in the same sequence.
When 2-3 pairs of true leaves appear, seedlings are pricked out into boxes. After 4-6 weeks, seedlings are planted in open ground.
Prefers sunny places with warm, poor soil. Does not tolerate damp soils.
If sown in the spring, the seeds should be pre-treated - stratified. To do this, the fresh material is mixed with peat soil and sand in special boxes and placed in a refrigerator or cool cellar, and in winter they are periodically taken out and mixed.
The seeds will begin to germinate in 1.5 to 2 months, and it is important not to miss this point. The germinated seeds are taken out of the freezer and sown into individual containers (at least 5 cm in diameter and with a drainage hole) filled with light, fertile soil that has been moistened beforehand. You can use special soil for roses, which can be purchased at a florist's shop. Peat pellets are also excellent for growing roses from seed.
It is advisable to soak the soil with a solution of Phytosporin before sowing the seeds.
Sow the seeds superficially (do not bury them in the soil) and lightly cover with vermiculite or perlite. Cover the container with a transparent plastic lid or cling film and place it in a warm place (e.g. on a radiator). As the soil dries out, water the future roses with warm water and remove any condensation daily. When the seedlings appear, remove the cover or cling film. Keep the seedlings at a temperature of 18-20°C.
The seeds will begin to germinate in 1.5 to 2 months, and it is important not to miss this point. The germinated seeds are taken out of the freezer and sown into individual containers (at least 5 cm in diameter and with a drainage hole) filled with light, fertile soil that has been moistened beforehand. You can use special soil for roses, which can be purchased at a florist's shop. Peat pellets are also excellent for growing roses from seed.
It is advisable to soak the soil with a solution of Phytosporin before sowing the seeds.
Sow the seeds superficially (do not bury them in the soil) and lightly cover with vermiculite or perlite. Cover the container with a transparent plastic lid or cling film and place it in a warm place (e.g. on a radiator). As the soil dries out, water the future roses with warm water and remove any condensation daily. When the seedlings appear, remove the cover or cling film. Keep the seedlings at a temperature of 18-20°C.
If sowing in the autumn, prepare the seedbed in October. Make the furrows at 20 cm intervals and sow the seeds sparsely. The time should be chosen when the soil is still workable, but the chance of the seeds sprouting is minimal. Having undergone natural stratification, in the spring, with a steady warming, they will spring up more quickly.
In spring, sow blue-eye in April or May as soon as the ground warms up. If it still holds moisture, you don't need to water - there is plenty of natural rainfall at this time of year. If the sowing is delayed, the bed will need to be moistened slightly, but not flooded, so as not to have a crust on the surface.
The seeds are sown in peat cups or other prepared nutrient soil in March. You can use crates for this purpose first, so that you can pick the seedlings later. But it is more convenient to sow the seeds in individual cups at once in 2-3 pieces.
As the seedlings emerge, they should be thinned down leaving the strongest one behind. It is better to remove with scissors, so as not to damage the roots of the seedling, which should be preserved. Water as it dries out, without waiting for a firm crust or an over-dry layer.
After about three weeks, the seedlings should be hardened. To do this, take the pots out into the fresh air for an hour at first, then for two, gradually increasing the time to a day. Once they are accustomed to the new conditions, the plants will easily transfer to the open ground. The best time for transplanting is in mid- to late May, when night frosts are no longer likely.
In spring, sow blue-eye in April or May as soon as the ground warms up. If it still holds moisture, you don't need to water - there is plenty of natural rainfall at this time of year. If the sowing is delayed, the bed will need to be moistened slightly, but not flooded, so as not to have a crust on the surface.
The seeds are sown in peat cups or other prepared nutrient soil in March. You can use crates for this purpose first, so that you can pick the seedlings later. But it is more convenient to sow the seeds in individual cups at once in 2-3 pieces.
As the seedlings emerge, they should be thinned down leaving the strongest one behind. It is better to remove with scissors, so as not to damage the roots of the seedling, which should be preserved. Water as it dries out, without waiting for a firm crust or an over-dry layer.
After about three weeks, the seedlings should be hardened. To do this, take the pots out into the fresh air for an hour at first, then for two, gradually increasing the time to a day. Once they are accustomed to the new conditions, the plants will easily transfer to the open ground. The best time for transplanting is in mid- to late May, when night frosts are no longer likely.
Growing echscholzia most often involves sowing the seeds directly into the ground. But interestingly, experienced growers prefer to grow echscholzia in seedlings, so we suggest you find out how to do this as well. This crop has a long tap root system which can easily be damaged if transplanted and is therefore best sown in peat pellets. Planting and looking after echscholzia in pellets is done in the following order: put pellets in a plastic container and pour water into it, when the pellets will absorb the water, drain the rest, put one seed in each pellet with a wet toothpick, sprinkle a little sprinkling of seedling soil on top, spray the seeds with water from a sprayer and cover the container with glass or film.
The first shoots will appear after about two weeks, then remove the glass and place the container with the pellets in a bright place and keep it at a temperature not higher than 20 ºC. At this stage, the care of Esholtia consists of moistening the soil as necessary and applying liquid seedling fertiliser two weeks after the emergence of seedlings. Three weeks before planting outdoors, start hardening the seedlings by placing them in a cool room during the day for a few hours. Hardened seedlings can withstand temperatures as low as -5 ºC after planting in the ground.
The first shoots will appear after about two weeks, then remove the glass and place the container with the pellets in a bright place and keep it at a temperature not higher than 20 ºC. At this stage, the care of Esholtia consists of moistening the soil as necessary and applying liquid seedling fertiliser two weeks after the emergence of seedlings. Three weeks before planting outdoors, start hardening the seedlings by placing them in a cool room during the day for a few hours. Hardened seedlings can withstand temperatures as low as -5 ºC after planting in the ground.
Like annuals, perennials propagate generatively. In places with warm climates where frosts do not occur in May, it is possible to plant zinnias directly in the ground, but if night frosts are common in your area, know that zinnia seeds sown in the ground will already die at a temperature of -1ºC. For this reason, experienced flower growers consider that it is better to cultivate and harden the plant as a seedling, and then planting zinnias in the ground, followed by rooting, will be successful. Before sowing, wrap the zinnia seeds in a cloth or gauze soaked in epin to see which ones are germinating and which are not. Fresh seeds germinate in a couple of days and older seeds take a week to germinate. At the end of March or beginning of April, the germinating seeds are sown two or three at a time into peat pots with moist substrate and thus avoiding the later stage of picking, which this crop does not like. The seeds should be moistened and placed in a light place. The optimum temperature for the germination of the zinia is 22-24 ºC. If you do everything correctly, the seedlings will appear in a few days.
Ursinia seeds should be sown in early March.
The seeds should be sown in large containers with a side height of about 20 cm. Although Ursinia is a southern plant, it is not necessary to cover the containers. The ambient temperature around the containers should be between 20 and 25 degrees Celsius. The room does not need to be specially heated.
The container soil must be disinfected. It is reheated in the oven at a temperature of approximately 170 degrees for half an hour. Once it has cooled down, it is thoroughly mixed, and then used.
Small holes no more than 10 cm deep are made in the ground. Seeds are sprinkled in them. Seeds should not be covered with earth, but with a layer of sterile sand 3 cm deep.
The first shoots will appear after 2 weeks.
The seeds should be sown in large containers with a side height of about 20 cm. Although Ursinia is a southern plant, it is not necessary to cover the containers. The ambient temperature around the containers should be between 20 and 25 degrees Celsius. The room does not need to be specially heated.
The container soil must be disinfected. It is reheated in the oven at a temperature of approximately 170 degrees for half an hour. Once it has cooled down, it is thoroughly mixed, and then used.
Small holes no more than 10 cm deep are made in the ground. Seeds are sprinkled in them. Seeds should not be covered with earth, but with a layer of sterile sand 3 cm deep.
The first shoots will appear after 2 weeks.
The seeds are light-sensitive. Stratify at 1 - 5° for 1-2 months to enhance germination.
Sow phlox at the end of February or in early spring in low containers. This can be a wooden box, a plastic container or a clear food tray. The container should be clean and rinsed with boiling water to make it safe. Place a layer of expanded clay drainage at the bottom, then fill in the soil.
Spread the phlox seeds evenly over the surface and then press them down gently with your hand so that they are firmly in contact with the soil. There is not much planting material in a single packet, so it is best to take 2-3 packets of seeds, since not all of them will come out. Cover the seeds with a little dry soil. Moisten the soil with a sprayer and cover with cling film.
Put the container with the seeds in a bright place. The cover should not be removed until the seeds have germinated. Remove the cover daily for 15-20 minutes to allow the seedlings to air out. The soil should be sprinkled with room-temperature water as needed and should not be allowed to dry out, otherwise the seeds will die.
Sow phlox at the end of February or in early spring in low containers. This can be a wooden box, a plastic container or a clear food tray. The container should be clean and rinsed with boiling water to make it safe. Place a layer of expanded clay drainage at the bottom, then fill in the soil.
Spread the phlox seeds evenly over the surface and then press them down gently with your hand so that they are firmly in contact with the soil. There is not much planting material in a single packet, so it is best to take 2-3 packets of seeds, since not all of them will come out. Cover the seeds with a little dry soil. Moisten the soil with a sprayer and cover with cling film.
Put the container with the seeds in a bright place. The cover should not be removed until the seeds have germinated. Remove the cover daily for 15-20 minutes to allow the seedlings to air out. The soil should be sprinkled with room-temperature water as needed and should not be allowed to dry out, otherwise the seeds will die.
The seeds should be disinfected before planting. This can be done with a solution of manganese, chlorhexidine or green (simply immerse the seeds in a cloth bag for half an hour and then rinse). Or make a Phytosporin solution and soak according to the instructions.
Put a drainage layer (max. 1 cm) at the bottom of the container, e.g. sand, keramzite of a small size.
Fill the container 2/3 full with soil and moisten with warm water.
Pour a thin layer of sand on top, moisten the sand again with a spray gun.
Sow the seeds evenly, without placing them too close together (the best distance is 3 centimetres).
It is not necessary to cover the seeds on top of them, they will germinate in the light. Just press them gently into the soil with the palm of your hand!
Spray them with a sprayer and place them in a warm place with a temperature of 22-25 degrees Celsius.
Put a drainage layer (max. 1 cm) at the bottom of the container, e.g. sand, keramzite of a small size.
Fill the container 2/3 full with soil and moisten with warm water.
Pour a thin layer of sand on top, moisten the sand again with a spray gun.
Sow the seeds evenly, without placing them too close together (the best distance is 3 centimetres).
It is not necessary to cover the seeds on top of them, they will germinate in the light. Just press them gently into the soil with the palm of your hand!
Spray them with a sprayer and place them in a warm place with a temperature of 22-25 degrees Celsius.
The seeds should be sown at the beginning of February. This rule should be adhered to and will allow the bush to enjoy its flowering the same year.
Before placing the seeds in the soil, you should:
Carry out stratification of the planting material (all grains should be kept for about 30 days at a temperature no higher than 7ºC).
Only neutral soil should be used.
To make the seeds germinate faster, cover the container with polyethylene.
Prick the young plants when they have two full leaves each.
Plant out in mid-May and keep in a cool place until then.
Before planting the seedlings in the bed, it is necessary to harden them a little. For this purpose, take the young plants out into the fresh air for a fortnight and increase the amount of time. Before moving them to the bed, water the soil in the pot and wait for approximately two hours. At the end of this time, remove the pots from each plant while maintaining the integrity of the soil and place them in the hollow previously made.
Before placing the seeds in the soil, you should:
Carry out stratification of the planting material (all grains should be kept for about 30 days at a temperature no higher than 7ºC).
Only neutral soil should be used.
To make the seeds germinate faster, cover the container with polyethylene.
Prick the young plants when they have two full leaves each.
Plant out in mid-May and keep in a cool place until then.
Before planting the seedlings in the bed, it is necessary to harden them a little. For this purpose, take the young plants out into the fresh air for a fortnight and increase the amount of time. Before moving them to the bed, water the soil in the pot and wait for approximately two hours. At the end of this time, remove the pots from each plant while maintaining the integrity of the soil and place them in the hollow previously made.
Safflower is grown by direct sowing from seed. It is difficult to transplant because of its long tap root. The optimum germination temperature is around 15-20°C.
Before planting, prepare the soil by removing stones and other debris. Add compost or aged manure (if the soil is depleted). Plant the seeds 20 cm apart and 30 cm between the rows. Each 'juvenile' needs enough space to develop. In addition, the distance will limit the spread of diseases between the plants. Tiller each seed to a depth of 2 to 3 cm.
Lightly tamp down the soil and water gently from a watering can, taking care not to wash the seeds away. Keep the soil moist during the germination process. It will be 2-3 weeks before the seedlings are ready to germinate.
Safflower needs a warm, dry place. Plant it in sunny, south- or west-facing parts of the garden. You can decorate sloping areas with false saffron.
The soil should be deep, well-drained and loamy (loosen it before planting if it is heavy and too clayey). Add peat moss and compost to sandy soil. Safflower is not pH-demanding and prefers neutral soil.
Water carefully as there is a tendency for rot and fungal diseases to develop if it is too wet. Avoid wetting the foliage as this can lead to the development of diseases.
Before planting, prepare the soil by removing stones and other debris. Add compost or aged manure (if the soil is depleted). Plant the seeds 20 cm apart and 30 cm between the rows. Each 'juvenile' needs enough space to develop. In addition, the distance will limit the spread of diseases between the plants. Tiller each seed to a depth of 2 to 3 cm.
Lightly tamp down the soil and water gently from a watering can, taking care not to wash the seeds away. Keep the soil moist during the germination process. It will be 2-3 weeks before the seedlings are ready to germinate.
Safflower needs a warm, dry place. Plant it in sunny, south- or west-facing parts of the garden. You can decorate sloping areas with false saffron.
The soil should be deep, well-drained and loamy (loosen it before planting if it is heavy and too clayey). Add peat moss and compost to sandy soil. Safflower is not pH-demanding and prefers neutral soil.
Water carefully as there is a tendency for rot and fungal diseases to develop if it is too wet. Avoid wetting the foliage as this can lead to the development of diseases.
Scabiosa seedlings can be sown in March/April for cultivation in the greenhouse or at home. Seeds that are too densely sown will require picking.
Seeds are sown in containers of different sizes, filled with a nutritious substrate - this can be vegetable soil mixed with organic matter, or universal soil from the shop. Moisten the soil, place the seeds in it and cover with plastic. Leave the containers at a temperature of approximately 15°C. The seeds should be aired for half an hour every day and the moisture content of the soil should be monitored. As soon as the first shoots appear, remove the polythene and place the containers in a well-lit area. Sprouting is carried out when the plants appear 3-4 true leaves.
Sow into the open soil. The seeds can be sown directly into the soil in late April or early May. Sow 9 plants per 1 m².
Seeds are sown in containers of different sizes, filled with a nutritious substrate - this can be vegetable soil mixed with organic matter, or universal soil from the shop. Moisten the soil, place the seeds in it and cover with plastic. Leave the containers at a temperature of approximately 15°C. The seeds should be aired for half an hour every day and the moisture content of the soil should be monitored. As soon as the first shoots appear, remove the polythene and place the containers in a well-lit area. Sprouting is carried out when the plants appear 3-4 true leaves.
Sow into the open soil. The seeds can be sown directly into the soil in late April or early May. Sow 9 plants per 1 m².
For earlier flowering, grow Titonia sprouts from seed; when to plant them depends on the region. The seedlings are usually sown in spring in March. The indoor cultivation begins 6-8 weeks before the expected date of the last frost.
Sow the seeds and grow the titonia seedlings:
They are sown in boxes filled with seedling soil. The seeds should be covered with a small layer of sifted potting soil. Sow them shallowly as the seeds need light to germinate.
Cover the boxes with foil or glass and remove and air them every day. Keep the boxes at home or in a heated greenhouse. Titonia seeds will germinate in 2 weeks.
When the seedlings have sprouted and develop true leaves, they will be potted into individual pots.
Sow the seeds and grow the titonia seedlings:
They are sown in boxes filled with seedling soil. The seeds should be covered with a small layer of sifted potting soil. Sow them shallowly as the seeds need light to germinate.
Cover the boxes with foil or glass and remove and air them every day. Keep the boxes at home or in a heated greenhouse. Titonia seeds will germinate in 2 weeks.
When the seedlings have sprouted and develop true leaves, they will be potted into individual pots.
Prepare a soil mixture. You can buy universal potting soil for flower sprouts. Or you can make it yourself by mixing sod soil (2 parts), peat (1 part), sand (1 part); you can make soil according to another recipe: garden soil (3 parts), humus or compost (1 part), sand (1 part).
Prepare a planting container. It is more convenient to sow the seeds in a general wide and low container (box, container). The optimal height is about 7-8 cm, no more. Make sure there are drainage holes in the bottom of the container.
Put a 1.5 cm thick drainage layer at the bottom (perlite, fine claydite or crushed bricks are excellent).
Fill the container with soil, make sure the soil is even and moisten it liberally with a sprayer.
Sow the forget-me-not seeds. Sow them superficially (i.e. they do not need to be covered with earth), trying to distribute them evenly over the surface (preferably leaving a gap of approx. 1 cm).
Cover the container with a lid or film to create a mini-greenhouse.
The seeds should be given the right conditions to germinate immediately after sowing: they should be in greenhouse conditions, i.e. high humidity and warmth. The pot should therefore always be covered with a lid and cling film. However, it is advisable to let the mini-greenhouse air out for just 20-40 minutes every day.
When you see sprouts of forget-me-nots, you need to remove the cover and move the plants to the lightest window sill (preferably south, or at least south-east, south-west).
One of the main conditions for strong seedlings - a competent temperature regime, which varies depending on the stage of development of seedlings: immediately after sowing and before the appearance of seedlings on the ground the optimal temperature is 24-26 degrees, not below; after germination of seedlings the temperature for 7 days is reduced to 18-16 degrees (such reduction will help avoid pulling); 7 days after emergence of seedlings should increase t to 20-18 by day, and 18-16 at night.
Prepare a planting container. It is more convenient to sow the seeds in a general wide and low container (box, container). The optimal height is about 7-8 cm, no more. Make sure there are drainage holes in the bottom of the container.
Put a 1.5 cm thick drainage layer at the bottom (perlite, fine claydite or crushed bricks are excellent).
Fill the container with soil, make sure the soil is even and moisten it liberally with a sprayer.
Sow the forget-me-not seeds. Sow them superficially (i.e. they do not need to be covered with earth), trying to distribute them evenly over the surface (preferably leaving a gap of approx. 1 cm).
Cover the container with a lid or film to create a mini-greenhouse.
The seeds should be given the right conditions to germinate immediately after sowing: they should be in greenhouse conditions, i.e. high humidity and warmth. The pot should therefore always be covered with a lid and cling film. However, it is advisable to let the mini-greenhouse air out for just 20-40 minutes every day.
When you see sprouts of forget-me-nots, you need to remove the cover and move the plants to the lightest window sill (preferably south, or at least south-east, south-west).
One of the main conditions for strong seedlings - a competent temperature regime, which varies depending on the stage of development of seedlings: immediately after sowing and before the appearance of seedlings on the ground the optimal temperature is 24-26 degrees, not below; after germination of seedlings the temperature for 7 days is reduced to 18-16 degrees (such reduction will help avoid pulling); 7 days after emergence of seedlings should increase t to 20-18 by day, and 18-16 at night.
You can sow the seeds directly into the ground in May or early June and cover them with clingfilm until they sprout so that they can germinate quickly; they will then flower in June and July. If sown uncovered, flowering will of course occur later.
Alternatively, you can also use annuals as seedlings. To do this in March-April, seeds are sown in containers with suitable moistened soil. Place the seeds in a common dish away from each other (at least 5 cm), or better yet, sow them in separate cups or cassettes at once. Because of the sensitive root system, seedling picking is undesirable.
The seeds should be sown to a maximum depth of 1 cm. The seeds are moistened with a sprayer and covered with transparent material (film or glass) until they sprout.
Place in a warm and sufficiently light place. If necessary, provide additional light if the seedlings begin to stretch.
Before planting the seedlings in the open air, they should be hardened by taking them out into the fresh air every day and gradually increasing the amount of time they spend outdoors.
Place the seedlings in the flower bed at a distance of 20-25 cm.
From the beginning of June, you will already be able to admire the delicate blossoms.
Alternatively, you can also use annuals as seedlings. To do this in March-April, seeds are sown in containers with suitable moistened soil. Place the seeds in a common dish away from each other (at least 5 cm), or better yet, sow them in separate cups or cassettes at once. Because of the sensitive root system, seedling picking is undesirable.
The seeds should be sown to a maximum depth of 1 cm. The seeds are moistened with a sprayer and covered with transparent material (film or glass) until they sprout.
Place in a warm and sufficiently light place. If necessary, provide additional light if the seedlings begin to stretch.
Before planting the seedlings in the open air, they should be hardened by taking them out into the fresh air every day and gradually increasing the amount of time they spend outdoors.
Place the seedlings in the flower bed at a distance of 20-25 cm.
From the beginning of June, you will already be able to admire the delicate blossoms.
Nigella seedlings are sown in March/April in the greenhouse to a depth of 2 cm. The seedlings will usually emerge by the end of the second or third week. The seedlings will be released into peat-mulch pots when the first couple of true leaves develop, so that they can be transplanted directly into the bed when the time comes. Nigella planting When to plant The nigella seedlings will grow very quickly and can be transplanted to the open bed in May. The place for the nigella should be open and sunny, as the plant develops poorly in the shade. Incidentally, nigella plants do not like near ground covers so take this into account when deciding where to plant it. Friable, dry, light but nutritious, calcareous or neutral soils are preferred. On acidic soils, as well as in the shade, it will not grow well.
Fine pyrethrum seeds should be mixed with sand before sowing them. Sow them in early March, about 3-5 mm deep, but it is more convenient to spread them over the surface and then cover them with substrate and then moisten the surface with a fine mist sprayer. Cover the seedlings with glass or film and keep them in a light place at 18-20 ºC. As soon as the seedlings appear, remove the cover. Once the seedlings have developed two full leaves, they can be picked into their own cups or pots. The seedlings will be planted in a permanent location after a two-week hardening period. In southern areas, the pyrethrum flower can be cultivated as a seedless plant by sowing the seeds directly into the soil in early September.
Growing leucocum sprouts at home will be more successful if the seeds are briefly wet stratified. For this purpose, the seeds are poured into cold water for 1 day. Afterwards, drain the water, wrap the swollen seeds in any damp cloth and place them in the refrigerator, but not in the freezer, for 2-3 days. The seeds can then be planted. There are no specific time requirements, just assume that flowering will occur 60-70 days later. Sprouts appear quite quickly, within a week, and seedlings can be planted in the open field early, as leucocum is not afraid of frosts. The usual time for planting is early March, at most mid-month. There is no point in sowing seedlings later, as they can already be sown directly to the bed in April.
The seeds can be sown into the bed without submerging; in any case, the topsoil should not be more than 0.5 cm deep. The container should be covered with transparent material (glass, polyethylene) and placed in a warm, light place, but not in the sun. As soon as sprouts appear, remove the cover and move the box to a cool, bright place (preferably +15C or even lower). The soil should be kept moderately moist and not watered too quickly. The care will be the same as for any seedling.
The seeds can be sown into the bed without submerging; in any case, the topsoil should not be more than 0.5 cm deep. The container should be covered with transparent material (glass, polyethylene) and placed in a warm, light place, but not in the sun. As soon as sprouts appear, remove the cover and move the box to a cool, bright place (preferably +15C or even lower). The soil should be kept moderately moist and not watered too quickly. The care will be the same as for any seedling.
The seeds are sown sparsely, trying to place them at a depth of about three millimetres (preferably with a substrate that is not only light but also loose enough), and the optimum temperature for their germination is considered to be between fifteen and twenty-one degrees.
For planting, this usually takes place in late May or June, with a distance of twenty to twenty-five centimetres between the plants.
After planting and during dry spells, the Lonas requires moderate watering (normally it requires sufficient moisture from dew or rainfall) and it is also recommended to fertilise with nitrogen compounds or fertiliser once or twice at the start of its growth. It is also worth introducing organic matter such as compost, humus and so on.
Another big advantage of the vine is that it almost never gets infested by pests or diseases, which means growers don't have to worry about having to deal with the next pest from time to time.
For planting, this usually takes place in late May or June, with a distance of twenty to twenty-five centimetres between the plants.
After planting and during dry spells, the Lonas requires moderate watering (normally it requires sufficient moisture from dew or rainfall) and it is also recommended to fertilise with nitrogen compounds or fertiliser once or twice at the start of its growth. It is also worth introducing organic matter such as compost, humus and so on.
Another big advantage of the vine is that it almost never gets infested by pests or diseases, which means growers don't have to worry about having to deal with the next pest from time to time.
Seeds can be planted during March/April if the weather forecasts are positive and indicate that May will be warm to begin with.
Earlier sowing is also possible, but in this case, dahlias will need to be supplemented with a UV lamp to avoid loss of seedlings.
Step-by-step instructions for sowing the seeds: Place the seeds directly on the surface of the substrate, leaving three to four centimetres between them and then spray them gently with a sprayer. The dahlia seeds do not need to be embedded or buried, just covered with a thin layer of soil. The container is then covered with clear plexiglass or covered with plastic wrap. Put the container with the seeds on a window sill or other place where there is maximum sunlight. At a temperature of about 24-25 degrees, you can expect the first greens to sprout in five to six days.
Earlier sowing is also possible, but in this case, dahlias will need to be supplemented with a UV lamp to avoid loss of seedlings.
Step-by-step instructions for sowing the seeds: Place the seeds directly on the surface of the substrate, leaving three to four centimetres between them and then spray them gently with a sprayer. The dahlia seeds do not need to be embedded or buried, just covered with a thin layer of soil. The container is then covered with clear plexiglass or covered with plastic wrap. Put the container with the seeds on a window sill or other place where there is maximum sunlight. At a temperature of about 24-25 degrees, you can expect the first greens to sprout in five to six days.
Prepare the planting containers, make drainage holes if necessary and fill them with a drainage layer.
Fill each container with loose, light soil and level the surface. Leave a small gap to the edges.
Put 2-3 seeds in the centre of the cup/pot.
Sprinkle a very thin layer of sand (literally 1 millimetre!).
Moisten the surface of the soil liberally with a fine sprayer, the water should be warm.
Cover each cup with food film or a lid.
Taking care of seedlings of Iberis at home is quite easy. Providing the plants with favourable conditions will make it easy to grow strong seedlings.
Fill each container with loose, light soil and level the surface. Leave a small gap to the edges.
Put 2-3 seeds in the centre of the cup/pot.
Sprinkle a very thin layer of sand (literally 1 millimetre!).
Moisten the surface of the soil liberally with a fine sprayer, the water should be warm.
Cover each cup with food film or a lid.
Taking care of seedlings of Iberis at home is quite easy. Providing the plants with favourable conditions will make it easy to grow strong seedlings.
Step 1: Prepare the soil mixture; loose, light, nutritious soil is recommended. This means that the soil should not be clayey, heavy or dense. The crop can be planted in universal flower sprouts (it is better to add 1 part sand or perlite/vermiculite to 3 parts of this soil).
Step 2: Prepare the propagation containers and since the rocket is not easily transplantable, it is very important to immediately sow the seeds in individual containers (cups, pots) so that you don't have to make any picking. The optimal volume of containers is 300-400 ml. Make sure that there are drainage holes in the bottom of the container.
Step 3: Prepare the seeds. The seeds of morning glory have a thick, compact seed coat and should be prepared before sowing - soak them in warm water (24 hours) or in a growth stimulator (such as Zircon or similar) to enable them to germinate more quickly.
Step 4: Make good drainage. A layer of drainage should be placed at the bottom of each cup to prevent dangerously stagnant moisture. You can, for example, put perlite, crushed bricks or expanded clay. The thickness of the layer is 1.5 - 2 cm.
Step 5: Fill each cup with soil. The soil should be placed evenly so that there are no voids.
Step 6: Make a hole in the centre of the cup, 0.5-1 cm deep and no more.
Step 7: Sow the morning glory into the hole, then cover the hole with 5-10 mm of soil.
Step 8: Moisten the soil with the seeds generously. Use a sprayer to water. The water should be warm and clean.
Step 9: Now cover the cups with lids or cling film and place them in a warm room.
Step 2: Prepare the propagation containers and since the rocket is not easily transplantable, it is very important to immediately sow the seeds in individual containers (cups, pots) so that you don't have to make any picking. The optimal volume of containers is 300-400 ml. Make sure that there are drainage holes in the bottom of the container.
Step 3: Prepare the seeds. The seeds of morning glory have a thick, compact seed coat and should be prepared before sowing - soak them in warm water (24 hours) or in a growth stimulator (such as Zircon or similar) to enable them to germinate more quickly.
Step 4: Make good drainage. A layer of drainage should be placed at the bottom of each cup to prevent dangerously stagnant moisture. You can, for example, put perlite, crushed bricks or expanded clay. The thickness of the layer is 1.5 - 2 cm.
Step 5: Fill each cup with soil. The soil should be placed evenly so that there are no voids.
Step 6: Make a hole in the centre of the cup, 0.5-1 cm deep and no more.
Step 7: Sow the morning glory into the hole, then cover the hole with 5-10 mm of soil.
Step 8: Moisten the soil with the seeds generously. Use a sprayer to water. The water should be warm and clean.
Step 9: Now cover the cups with lids or cling film and place them in a warm room.
For faster germination, soak the seeds for a day before sowing, changing the water several times. Waxwort can be grown either as a seedling (sown in pots in April) or by direct sowing in the ground (in May, possibly under a plastic sheet). Sprouts appear in 5-7 days and look very much like pea seedlings. The waxwing plant tolerates transplanting well at an early age until it begins to branch.
To obtain seedlings, start seed breeding in February. The seeds are lowered into the soil by 1-1.5 cm. The distance from one seedpot to the next should be at least 5 cm. The germination process takes about 1.5 to 2 weeks. A seedling will produce two sprouts each.
The seedlings should be provided with good light and periodic watering. The temperature regime for the development is maintained between 15 and +20°C. After a couple of weeks it can be transplanted to the garden plot. The distance between the seedlings should be approximately 25 cm. The optimum time for transplanting outdoors is the end of April. The crop will flower in mid-summer.
To obtain seedlings, start seed breeding in February. The seeds are lowered into the soil by 1-1.5 cm. The distance from one seedpot to the next should be at least 5 cm. The germination process takes about 1.5 to 2 weeks. A seedling will produce two sprouts each.
The seedlings should be provided with good light and periodic watering. The temperature regime for the development is maintained between 15 and +20°C. After a couple of weeks it can be transplanted to the garden plot. The distance between the seedlings should be approximately 25 cm. The optimum time for transplanting outdoors is the end of April. The crop will flower in mid-summer.
Sow the seedlings in early April. A week before sowing, wrap the aster seeds in a cloth and soak them in a weak solution of manganese. After 10-12 hours, squeeze the cloth from the excess moisture, place it in a plastic bag and place it in a warm place for germination. Crates or pots can be used as a container to grow asters for seedlings.
The soil for asters should be light and fertile and must be watered with a fungicide solution before planting. Drop the seeds which have already germinated into the furrows made in the ground, cover them with a 0.5 cm layer of sand, moisten with a weak manganese solution through a fine sieve, then put them in a warm place (20-22 ºC) and cover with glass or plastic film. If you have sown seeds from the previous year, you can expect them to sprout in 3-5 days. After sprouting, move the containers to a cooler room at about 16ºC. Prick the seedlings in a 4x4 cm pattern when they have 3-4 true leaves. When picking, shorten the roots of the seedlings. Add ash to the potting soil and water the seedlings in moderation.
The soil for asters should be light and fertile and must be watered with a fungicide solution before planting. Drop the seeds which have already germinated into the furrows made in the ground, cover them with a 0.5 cm layer of sand, moisten with a weak manganese solution through a fine sieve, then put them in a warm place (20-22 ºC) and cover with glass or plastic film. If you have sown seeds from the previous year, you can expect them to sprout in 3-5 days. After sprouting, move the containers to a cooler room at about 16ºC. Prick the seedlings in a 4x4 cm pattern when they have 3-4 true leaves. When picking, shorten the roots of the seedlings. Add ash to the potting soil and water the seedlings in moderation.
Planting cornflowers as seedlings ensures good establishment and a quick adaptation of the ornamental plant in a permanent location. When choosing when to sprout cornflowers, it is best to choose April - the soil has already warmed up sufficiently and the risk of frost returns is considerably reduced. Fill plastic containers or pots with nutritious ornamental soil and tamp it down lightly. Make small holes in the soil up to 2 cm deep and moisten well.
Place the cornflower seeds in the holes and lightly bury them in the potting soil, but do not tamp them down. Cover the container with plastic wrap and place it in a warm place at a temperature not lower than +21 °C. After the first green shoots have appeared, the cover can be removed.
Place the cornflower seeds in the holes and lightly bury them in the potting soil, but do not tamp them down. Cover the container with plastic wrap and place it in a warm place at a temperature not lower than +21 °C. After the first green shoots have appeared, the cover can be removed.
The seedlings are sown from mid-March.
A multipurpose mix for flowering plants is sufficient for filling the container for sowing.
The seeds should be spread as evenly as possible over the entire soil surface. And lightly press a few millimetres into the soil.
After sowing, moisten the soil with a water sprayer.
Next, create a greenhouse effect - cover the container with foil or glass.
It is advisable to store the seeds in diffused but bright light and at a temperature of around +25 degrees.
Remember to air the container for about 10 minutes every day, at the same time you can moisten the soil with a sprinkler, if it has time to dry out.
As soon as the first shoots appear, remove the greenhouse.
Water the shoots a little more, but in moderation.
Planting out into the open ground takes place from mid-May. Two weeks before this, start exposing the seedlings to the outdoors for a day - this will harden them.
A multipurpose mix for flowering plants is sufficient for filling the container for sowing.
The seeds should be spread as evenly as possible over the entire soil surface. And lightly press a few millimetres into the soil.
After sowing, moisten the soil with a water sprayer.
Next, create a greenhouse effect - cover the container with foil or glass.
It is advisable to store the seeds in diffused but bright light and at a temperature of around +25 degrees.
Remember to air the container for about 10 minutes every day, at the same time you can moisten the soil with a sprinkler, if it has time to dry out.
As soon as the first shoots appear, remove the greenhouse.
Water the shoots a little more, but in moderation.
Planting out into the open ground takes place from mid-May. Two weeks before this, start exposing the seedlings to the outdoors for a day - this will harden them.
Before planting seeds in the ground, they are initially germinated at home. To do this, take a towel (preferably paper) and moisten until wet. Then visually divide it in half, put seeds on one part, and cover the second. All this is placed in a plastic bag, which is stored in a warm room at t more than +10 ° C, periodically checked for sprouts and at the same time monitor the humidity of the towel. The growth period is 2 days. If the seed has not germinated within 3 days, then using tweezers, remove the edge from the seed and leave it for a while. However, you can do without germination by simply lowering them into the ground, but the probability of germination will be much lower. Before planting in the ground, the seeds, in order to avoid being eaten, are treated with a special anti-rodent agent, prepared by hand or purchased.
Planting sunflower seeds in open ground:
Sowing begins in mid-May. To do this, with the help of a hoe in the chosen place, holes are made 3-4 cm deep with an interval of 15 cm, but it can be longer, because the greater the distance between the seedlings, the wider the hats will grow. 2-3 grains are lowered into the holes and covered with soil, and the soil must be moistened.
Planting sunflower seeds in open ground:
Sowing begins in mid-May. To do this, with the help of a hoe in the chosen place, holes are made 3-4 cm deep with an interval of 15 cm, but it can be longer, because the greater the distance between the seedlings, the wider the hats will grow. 2-3 grains are lowered into the holes and covered with soil, and the soil must be moistened.
Soap seeds are sown in mid-March in small containers filled with a moist, loose substrate, sprinkled with a thin layer of sand on top, moisten it with a spray bottle, cover the crops with a film and, while waiting for seedlings, are placed under bright diffused light. The room temperature must be at least 20 ˚C. When shoots appear, the film is removed from the crops. Soap seedlings do not require special care: they must be protected from drafts and direct sunlight, watered from time to time and carefully loosened the soil around the seedlings. When the seedlings develop two pairs of true leaves, they are seated in separate containers.
Bindweed seeds are sown for seedlings in March, having previously kept them in water for a day. They are laid out in separate cups with drainage holes for the outflow of excess water, filled with moist compost soil or soil mixture, consisting of one part of peat and two parts of fertile soil. Sprinkle the seeds on top with loose soil and lightly press it with your hands. Do not sow bindweed in a common box, because it does not tolerate a pick. Contain crops at a temperature of 18-20 ºC, watering regularly, and after two weeks, shoots can be expected. Bindweed seedlings need to moisten the soil as it dries and to fertilize with a solution of mineral fertilizer in a weak concentration every two weeks. As soon as warm weather sets in and the threat of return frosts has passed, bindweed seedlings are planted in the ground after preliminary hardening. Usually the necessary conditions arise in mid-May, although there are years when bindweed seedlings are planted in the first decade of June.
Lychnis, propagated by seeds, is sown in open ground before winter or early spring. In any case, you will see the first flowering in a year, except that when planted before winter and the weather is favorable, the lychnis will bloom in the summer, and even then not at full strength. If you want to see flowering already this year, you will have to sow lychnis seeds for seedlings in March, having previously subjected them to stratification in the refrigerator for 2-4 weeks. Crops are kept at a temperature of 18-20 ºC, seedlings may appear in a few weeks, and lychnis from seeds will be ready for planting in open ground by the end of May after a two-week hardening.
Technology for growing decorative sunflowers from seeds in open ground:
- Seeds must be soaked overnight before planting. This is done to speed up the germination process.
- In the prepared soil, make holes 4-5 cm deep.
- Sow 2-3 seeds in each hole, slightly deepening them into the soil.
- It is important to adhere to the planting pattern of 70x70 cm (the distance between holes and rows should not be less).
- After sowing, the bed should be rolled a little and watered.
Sunflower seeds germinate 7-10 days after sowing. Further, the extra shoots must be removed, leaving the strongest of two or three shoots.
Growing an ornamental sunflower from seedlings:
It is also possible to grow a decorative helianthus with the help of seedlings. This will protect early shoots from unexpected frosts, which is very important, since the sunflower is not a frost-resistant plant. To get sunflower seedlings, you need to take the following steps:
In peat cups filled with a substrate for germinating seedlings or garden soil with humus, 1-2 seeds are sown to a depth of 4-5 cm. Next, the crops must be watered and covered with a film or glass to save moisture, and then cleaned in a warm place until germination.
After the seeds germinate, the sprouts require additional lighting in order for them to grow stronger. With a lack of lighting, seedlings will stretch and bend.
The soil needs to be watered regularly to keep it slightly moist, but it is important to avoid stagnant water. There is nothing difficult in obtaining sunflower seedlings. Seeds should be sown 25-30 days before the intended transplantation of seedlings in open ground.
- Seeds must be soaked overnight before planting. This is done to speed up the germination process.
- In the prepared soil, make holes 4-5 cm deep.
- Sow 2-3 seeds in each hole, slightly deepening them into the soil.
- It is important to adhere to the planting pattern of 70x70 cm (the distance between holes and rows should not be less).
- After sowing, the bed should be rolled a little and watered.
Sunflower seeds germinate 7-10 days after sowing. Further, the extra shoots must be removed, leaving the strongest of two or three shoots.
Growing an ornamental sunflower from seedlings:
It is also possible to grow a decorative helianthus with the help of seedlings. This will protect early shoots from unexpected frosts, which is very important, since the sunflower is not a frost-resistant plant. To get sunflower seedlings, you need to take the following steps:
In peat cups filled with a substrate for germinating seedlings or garden soil with humus, 1-2 seeds are sown to a depth of 4-5 cm. Next, the crops must be watered and covered with a film or glass to save moisture, and then cleaned in a warm place until germination.
After the seeds germinate, the sprouts require additional lighting in order for them to grow stronger. With a lack of lighting, seedlings will stretch and bend.
The soil needs to be watered regularly to keep it slightly moist, but it is important to avoid stagnant water. There is nothing difficult in obtaining sunflower seedlings. Seeds should be sown 25-30 days before the intended transplantation of seedlings in open ground.
Seed preparation includes several stages:
Soak:
The use of potassium permanganate or special processing agents provides protection against possible bacterial or fungal infections.
Cold treatment:
Keeping in the refrigerator increases the protective qualities of the seed material.
Sowing:
After preparing the seeds, starting from mid-March, seedlings are being prepared for planting. To do this, purchase special containers or individual cups, which are filled with earth. Flower growers are advised to purchase a special soil intended for flower seedlings.
Before sowing, the soil is abundantly moistened, the seeds are laid out and, without covering with earth, the containers are covered with film material. This contributes to the creation of a greenhouse effect, when optimal conditions are created for germination.
Seedling care:
Crops are harvested in a room where the temperature is kept in the range from + 18 to + 22 °. Until the seeds have sprouted, the containers with plantings are ventilated twice a day and sprayed from a spray bottle. In addition, condensation must be removed from the surface of the film so that the environment in which the sprouts form is not excessively humid. Otherwise, this will lead to a weakening of the protective forces of plants.
Soak:
The use of potassium permanganate or special processing agents provides protection against possible bacterial or fungal infections.
Cold treatment:
Keeping in the refrigerator increases the protective qualities of the seed material.
Sowing:
After preparing the seeds, starting from mid-March, seedlings are being prepared for planting. To do this, purchase special containers or individual cups, which are filled with earth. Flower growers are advised to purchase a special soil intended for flower seedlings.
Before sowing, the soil is abundantly moistened, the seeds are laid out and, without covering with earth, the containers are covered with film material. This contributes to the creation of a greenhouse effect, when optimal conditions are created for germination.
Seedling care:
Crops are harvested in a room where the temperature is kept in the range from + 18 to + 22 °. Until the seeds have sprouted, the containers with plantings are ventilated twice a day and sprayed from a spray bottle. In addition, condensation must be removed from the surface of the film so that the environment in which the sprouts form is not excessively humid. Otherwise, this will lead to a weakening of the protective forces of plants.
Leptosiphon can be sown on seedlings in early spring - in April-late May. But it is better to sow the seeds not in the ground, but in wet sand, scattering the seeds over its surface.
The air temperature in the room must be at least +20 °С. In this case, it is necessary to create greenhouse conditions: cover the container with seeds with a film or glass. If such conditions are created, then the first shoots will not have to wait long. When the first 3-4 true leaves appear on the seedlings, dive the plants into separate containers, and at the end of May, transplant all young plants into open ground.
The air temperature in the room must be at least +20 °С. In this case, it is necessary to create greenhouse conditions: cover the container with seeds with a film or glass. If such conditions are created, then the first shoots will not have to wait long. When the first 3-4 true leaves appear on the seedlings, dive the plants into separate containers, and at the end of May, transplant all young plants into open ground.
Seeds are sown either in autumn after harvest or in spring. It is noticed that during the autumn sowing shoots are usually more friendly. Before sowing the seeds, the soil must be dug up to a depth of 20 cm. Depending on the height of the variety, the seeds are sown at a distance of 25 to 40 cm. The higher the flower, the farther from the others it must be planted. In autumn, the seeds are sown directly into the ground. Scatter the seeds on the surface of the finished bed. Slightly press them into the soil and moisten. You don't need to dig them deep. Sprouts will appear in the spring, after the snow melts. Flowering occurs in the second year.
When planting in the spring, seedlings are grown first to speed up the emergence of seedlings. Seeds require wet cold stratification for a month, and after sowing they are placed in a place with good diffused lighting at a temperature of about 18 degrees. It is necessary to prevent the soil from drying out, maintaining its moisture by spraying. When 2 - 3 full-fledged leaves appear, the seedlings are transplanted into separate pots. Landing in open ground is carried out in late April or early May. The seeds remain viable for about a year after harvest, if you have stored the seeds longer than the prescribed period, you can try rubbing them with sandpaper and treating them with a growth stimulator before planting.
When planting in the spring, seedlings are grown first to speed up the emergence of seedlings. Seeds require wet cold stratification for a month, and after sowing they are placed in a place with good diffused lighting at a temperature of about 18 degrees. It is necessary to prevent the soil from drying out, maintaining its moisture by spraying. When 2 - 3 full-fledged leaves appear, the seedlings are transplanted into separate pots. Landing in open ground is carried out in late April or early May. The seeds remain viable for about a year after harvest, if you have stored the seeds longer than the prescribed period, you can try rubbing them with sandpaper and treating them with a growth stimulator before planting.
Sowing of seeds is carried out in the middle of spring on a warmed bed or greenhouses, in containers on the windowsill.
Care should be taken that the seeds are sown not densely, between rows of 10 cm, in a row of 3-4.
If you sow in cups, put 2-3 seeds and sprinkle with earth.
Keep it moist but not waterlogged.
When seedlings appear, thin them out, leaving a distance of 4-5 cm between sprouts.
Make sure that the earth does not dry out, but do not flood.
Amberboa seedlings need to be hardened, taken out in the sun for an hour or two, and then for the whole day.
When 4-5 true leaves appear, seedlings can be planted in the ground.
Care should be taken that the seeds are sown not densely, between rows of 10 cm, in a row of 3-4.
If you sow in cups, put 2-3 seeds and sprinkle with earth.
Keep it moist but not waterlogged.
When seedlings appear, thin them out, leaving a distance of 4-5 cm between sprouts.
Make sure that the earth does not dry out, but do not flood.
Amberboa seedlings need to be hardened, taken out in the sun for an hour or two, and then for the whole day.
When 4-5 true leaves appear, seedlings can be planted in the ground.
Cultivation of sweet peas begins with its sowing for seedlings in mid-March. Before sowing, tight seeds of sweet peas should be soaked in water for 10-12 hours or kept in a fifty-degree solution of the Bud preparation (1-2 g per 1 liter of water). Then, within 2-4 days, they are germinated in gauze, wet sand or sawdust at a temperature of 20-24 ºC. As soon as sweet pea seeds have hatched, they should be sown immediately. As a substrate, shop soils of Saintpaulia, Rose or a mixture of humus, peat and soddy soil in a ratio of 2: 2: 2: 1 are best suited. Any of these substrates must be disinfected with a strong solution of potassium permanganate, and it is better to use cups or pots as dishes for growing seedlings. Sowing is carried out in a moist substrate to a depth of not more than 2-3 cm, laying out 2-3 seeds in each cup. If you sow peas in a common box, then the distance between the seeds should be about 8 cm. After sowing, the substrate is watered, the containers are covered with foil and kept on a sunny windowsill at a temperature of 18-22 ºC.
Sowing hylia is best done in open ground. Hylia is usually planted in early spring (May) or autumn, but under cover. A plant from the order "threw the seeds into the ground and forgot."
When sown in autumn, seedlings appear in early spring. When spring sowing in 1.5 weeks. With the formation of two true leaves on the seedlings, it is necessary to thin out. The distance between plants should be about 20 cm. Gilia is not demanding in care. The soil is better suited nutritious, neutral and loose. The location is sunny, light partial shade is possible. Does not tolerate moisture stagnation. Watering as the soil dries up.
When sown in autumn, seedlings appear in early spring. When spring sowing in 1.5 weeks. With the formation of two true leaves on the seedlings, it is necessary to thin out. The distance between plants should be about 20 cm. Gilia is not demanding in care. The soil is better suited nutritious, neutral and loose. The location is sunny, light partial shade is possible. Does not tolerate moisture stagnation. Watering as the soil dries up.
Sowing is carried out either in the spring (in May) or before winter. For seedlings, jaundice is sown according to the standard technique, slightly covering with soil and necessarily protecting the crops with glass or film. Seeds will germinate at a temperature of about +1 degrees, the process of germination itself takes a little more than 1 week. Seedlings in the soil are thinned out, leaving a distance of 15-20 cm between plants. Seedlings dive when the second pair of true leaves appear in individual containers or large containers with the same distance between shoots. They are transferred to open soil in May-June. On average, annual jaundices bloom 2 months after sowing the seeds.
March or April. The light-sensitive seeds of cosmea sown on the top of the substrate are slightly pressed into the soil, without sprinkling, moisten and cover the sowing with a film or glass. The seed container is kept in a bright place. If the temperature for seed germination is between 18-20 ºC, sprouts will appear in a week or two. Thick seedlings need to be thinned out so that the distance between the seedlings is 10-15 cm, for this purpose a pick can be made. Picked seedlings are grown at a lower temperature - 16-18 ºC. If you do not want to bother with picking seedlings, you can immediately sow two or three seeds in separate cups.
The sooner you sow marigolds for seedlings (even in early spring), the faster they will bloom. Growing seedlings of marigolds is a simple process, but there are moments that should not be missed. Prepare a mixture of soil: humus, peat, turf, sand (1; 1; 1; 0.5) and disinfect by spilling a fungicide disinfectant solution or a dark pink solution of potassium permanganate. Make sure that at the bottom of the container there is a drainage layer of crushed stone, sand or expanded clay 3 cm high, apply fertilizer to the soil (any organic matter, except for fresh manure). At a distance of 1.5-2 cm from each other, make grooves, spread the seeds in them and sprinkle with a small layer of soil. You need to water very carefully so that the water does not wash the seeds out of the soil. The containers are kept in a warm place (22-25 ºC) and make sure that the soil does not dry out. Sprouts should appear no later than a week later, then the container should be moved to the light and the temperature should be slightly lowered (15-18 ºC).
Sowing of coreopsis for seedlings is carried out in early March: the seeds are evenly spread over the surface of moist nutritious garden soil placed in shallow containers, pressed against the ground with a plank, covered with foil and placed for germination in a warm, bright place. Seedling care Every day, crops should be ventilated, removing condensation from the film. Seed germination of this flower crop is very high. Coreopsis from seeds will begin to germinate in ten days, and as soon as this process becomes widespread, the cover can be removed from the container. Seedling care consists in watering and carefully loosening the substrate around the seedlings. At the stage of development of the seedlings of the first pair of true leaves, they dive into separate cups. If picking is done in a box, keep a step of 2 cm between seedlings and keep in mind that the seedlings will have to dive one more time when the seedlings grow to 10-12 cm.
The easiest way is to sow seeds in open ground in April or before winter in October. In spring, the time to sow comes when the earth warms up enough and dries out after the snow melts: firmly squeeze a handful of garden soil in your hands and then throw this lump on the ground from about a meter high, and if it breaks up easily, then it's time to sow calendula. A couple of weeks before planting, the soil on the site is dug up with humus at the rate of 3-4 kg per m², adding 20 g of superphosphate and potassium chloride, as well as 30 g of urea, to the same area unit. Marigold seeds are sown in the ground to a depth of 1-2 cm with an interval of 25-30 cm from each other, and the distance between the rows is left about 60-70 cm if you grow calendula because of its decorative qualities, but if you need calendula as medicine, then the interval between rows may be less - 30-40 cm. In this case, the distance between the seeds in a row can be reduced to 7-10 cm. after a week) they are thinned out in such a way that intervals of 25-35 cm are eventually formed between the seedlings. Calendula blooms about 10 weeks after sowing seeds in open ground.
Sowing calendula for seedlings:
In order for the calendula to bloom early, it is grown in seedlings. Low-growing varieties of calendula are also better to grow seedlings. Seeds for seedlings are sown in late March or early April in a common container or in separate cups with flower soil to a shallow depth - no more than 2 cm. The containers with crops are covered with a film and kept at a temperature of 18-20 ºC in light, but protected from direct sun. place. When shoots appear (usually this happens after 6-8 days), the film is removed and the temperature is lowered to 14-15 ºC. Caring for the calendula flower at this stage consists in watering the soil and feeding the seedlings with a weak solution of complex mineral fertilizer once a decade or two weeks. At the stage of development of seedlings of two true leaves, seedlings dive at a distance of 5 cm between specimens or plant them in separate cups. When the seedlings develop 5-6 true leaves, the calendula flower is planted in open ground - this usually happens in mid-May. However, despite the fact that the calendula plant is cold-resistant and calmly withstands nighttime spring frosts, it is still necessary to carry out hardening procedures with seedlings before planting. To do this, boxes or cups are taken out daily for a short time to the balcony or covered terrace for a week.
Sowing calendula for seedlings:
In order for the calendula to bloom early, it is grown in seedlings. Low-growing varieties of calendula are also better to grow seedlings. Seeds for seedlings are sown in late March or early April in a common container or in separate cups with flower soil to a shallow depth - no more than 2 cm. The containers with crops are covered with a film and kept at a temperature of 18-20 ºC in light, but protected from direct sun. place. When shoots appear (usually this happens after 6-8 days), the film is removed and the temperature is lowered to 14-15 ºC. Caring for the calendula flower at this stage consists in watering the soil and feeding the seedlings with a weak solution of complex mineral fertilizer once a decade or two weeks. At the stage of development of seedlings of two true leaves, seedlings dive at a distance of 5 cm between specimens or plant them in separate cups. When the seedlings develop 5-6 true leaves, the calendula flower is planted in open ground - this usually happens in mid-May. However, despite the fact that the calendula plant is cold-resistant and calmly withstands nighttime spring frosts, it is still necessary to carry out hardening procedures with seedlings before planting. To do this, boxes or cups are taken out daily for a short time to the balcony or covered terrace for a week.
Growing chamomile is possible in seedling and seedless way. You can sow garden chamomile seeds simply in the ground, but it is more reliable to use the seedling method. Chamomile seeds are sown for seedlings in March. Trays with cells are filled with a moist, light, breathable substrate, consisting of peat and sand in equal parts, 2-3 seeds are laid out in each cell, sprinkled on top with a thin layer of the substrate, cover the container with a transparent film and placed near the window, but not on window sill, as the light passing through the glass is too intense and can damage the seed germination process. Monitor the condition of the soil, and as soon as it dries, moisten it with a spray bottle. When shoots begin to appear, and at normal room temperature this will happen in a week and a half to two weeks, remove the film and place the container as close as possible to a sunny window, protecting the seedlings from drafts. If this is not possible for any reason, place a fluorescent lamp over the container, which must be on for at least 14 hours a day. As soon as the chamomile seedlings reach a height of 5 cm, leave only one, the most developed seedling, in each cell. Do not pull out unnecessary seedlings, but carefully pinch them off the ground, because you risk damaging the root system of the remaining seedling. In order for the chamomile to grow, pinch it over 3-4 leaves. Seedlings are planted in the ground at the age of 4-6 weeks, when all possible frosts have passed. Garden chamomile loves sunny areas with calcareous or neutral soil and deep groundwater.
Large nasturtium seeds are sown directly into the open ground in mid or late May, when the last frosts have passed. In holes up to two centimeters deep, located at a distance of 25-30 cm from each other, nasturtium seeds are placed in a nested way - 3-4 pieces per hole. If there is a possibility of nighttime drops in temperature, cover the seeded area with plastic wrap or other covering material and use only warm water for irrigation. Seedlings will appear in a week or two.
Carry out the cultivation of nasturtium and seedling method, which allows you to achieve earlier flowering than in the case of sowing seeds directly into the ground. To do this, use peat cups or cups with a retractable bottom, in which in April-May seeds are sown 2-3 pieces to a depth of 2 cm. The temperature in the room with seedlings should be 20-22 ºC. Shoots will appear in a couple of weeks. The root system of nasturtium is weak, and the leaf surface is quite large, therefore, in order not to injure the roots, the seedlings are not dived and transplanted into the soil along with an earthen clod, right in a cup.
Carry out the cultivation of nasturtium and seedling method, which allows you to achieve earlier flowering than in the case of sowing seeds directly into the ground. To do this, use peat cups or cups with a retractable bottom, in which in April-May seeds are sown 2-3 pieces to a depth of 2 cm. The temperature in the room with seedlings should be 20-22 ºC. Shoots will appear in a couple of weeks. The root system of nasturtium is weak, and the leaf surface is quite large, therefore, in order not to injure the roots, the seedlings are not dived and transplanted into the soil along with an earthen clod, right in a cup.
Before germination, you need to soak the seeds for two days in warm water so that the shell becomes softer. Now we take convenient containers, fill them with vermiculite (or calcined river sand), moisten (but not much) and not very deeply immerse the seeds in them for 30-35 days. These containers should be in a dry and dark room, where it is always warm. You can place them on a radiator, for example (or on an electric heating pad with temperature control). During the whole time, the air temperature near the containers should be approximately +30°C during the day, with the onset of night it should be reduced to +15°C. Vermiculite or sand must be constantly kept moist, which can be easily maintained with a spray bottle.
When the seeds have small roots, then they should then carry out the so-called cold stratification. To do this, they take other containers, fill them with earth mixture containing peat and / or humus, carefully transplant the hatched seeds into them along with the roots. During this period, the air temperature in the room with containers should be approximately +5 (7)..+10°C.
Now you have to be patient and wait for the first leaves to appear, after which the air temperature should be increased to +18..+20°C. You should not forget about periodic irrigation, and growth stimulants can sometimes be added to the water. Young growth is transferred to a permanent place of residence in the second half of August.
When the seeds have small roots, then they should then carry out the so-called cold stratification. To do this, they take other containers, fill them with earth mixture containing peat and / or humus, carefully transplant the hatched seeds into them along with the roots. During this period, the air temperature in the room with containers should be approximately +5 (7)..+10°C.
Now you have to be patient and wait for the first leaves to appear, after which the air temperature should be increased to +18..+20°C. You should not forget about periodic irrigation, and growth stimulants can sometimes be added to the water. Young growth is transferred to a permanent place of residence in the second half of August.
It is best to plan the sowing of delphinium seeds at the end of February.
Not very large seeds, slightly deepening, are evenly distributed over the surface of the substrate prepared as described above, and sprinkled on top with a thin layer of soil (so that they do not appear on the surface during the first watering) and sprayed with water from a spray bottle.
Stratification will help the seeds sprout faster, so the sown containers are covered with an opaque dense material, wrapped in polyethylene and put in the refrigerator, on the balcony, or taken out into the street for 10-14 days. Seeds can easily withstand temperatures down to -5°C.
The first option is preferable - it will be convenient for you to follow the seeds, because there are times when they begin to hatch already in the process of stratification. This usually happens on the tenth or fourteenth day.
When the first shoots appear, the containers should be opened and be sure to move them to a bright place with a temperature of 15-18 ° C (but in no case above 20 ° C, otherwise the shoots will die).
Not very large seeds, slightly deepening, are evenly distributed over the surface of the substrate prepared as described above, and sprinkled on top with a thin layer of soil (so that they do not appear on the surface during the first watering) and sprayed with water from a spray bottle.
Stratification will help the seeds sprout faster, so the sown containers are covered with an opaque dense material, wrapped in polyethylene and put in the refrigerator, on the balcony, or taken out into the street for 10-14 days. Seeds can easily withstand temperatures down to -5°C.
The first option is preferable - it will be convenient for you to follow the seeds, because there are times when they begin to hatch already in the process of stratification. This usually happens on the tenth or fourteenth day.
When the first shoots appear, the containers should be opened and be sure to move them to a bright place with a temperature of 15-18 ° C (but in no case above 20 ° C, otherwise the shoots will die).
Peony seeds often have a long shelf life, due to which they lose some of their moisture and shrivel. In such seeds, the outer shell is hardened, which creates an obstacle to spitting. For this reason, purchased seeds are recommended to be soaked in water at room temperature for 48 hours before sowing. If sowing work is carried out in August, then you can sow directly into the ground. But shoots can appear only in the 2nd year. If you decide to sow in the winter, then you will have to carry out a two-stage stratification artificially. For this purpose, it is a good idea to purchase an electric heating pad with a thermostat, which will allow you to adjust the daily temperature fluctuations by switching the control limits.
(I propose an option: alternation - during the day on the battery (of course with insulation - for example, a piece of foam, next to a thermometer), at night on the windowsill, where it is colder.).
Peony seeds are sown in moistened sand and the bowls in which the sowing is done are placed on a heating pad. Within a month, it is required to increase the heating temperature to 30 ° C during the day, and reduce it to 15 ° C at night. Of course, the sand must be periodically moistened with a spray bottle. When roots appear, you can proceed to the second stage - "cold" stratification.
At the second stage, the hatched seeds need to be transplanted into boxes with fertile soil (peat humus tablets can be used) and the temperature should be reduced to 5 - 10 ° C. Now it remains to wait for the appearance of leaves, after which the seedlings are again transferred to heat (18 - 20 ° C).
Grown seedlings are planted in a permanent place in the second half of August.
(I propose an option: alternation - during the day on the battery (of course with insulation - for example, a piece of foam, next to a thermometer), at night on the windowsill, where it is colder.).
Peony seeds are sown in moistened sand and the bowls in which the sowing is done are placed on a heating pad. Within a month, it is required to increase the heating temperature to 30 ° C during the day, and reduce it to 15 ° C at night. Of course, the sand must be periodically moistened with a spray bottle. When roots appear, you can proceed to the second stage - "cold" stratification.
At the second stage, the hatched seeds need to be transplanted into boxes with fertile soil (peat humus tablets can be used) and the temperature should be reduced to 5 - 10 ° C. Now it remains to wait for the appearance of leaves, after which the seedlings are again transferred to heat (18 - 20 ° C).
Grown seedlings are planted in a permanent place in the second half of August.
Lupine seeds are sown for seedlings in a loose soil mixture for seed germination, consisting of peat (one part), soddy soil (one part) and sand (half part). Before sowing, the seeds are mixed with powdered root nodules of old lupins to promote the growth of nitrogen-absorbing bacteria. Shoots will appear in a week or two, and if you want all the seeds to sprout at the same time, you need to cover the crops with damp gauze and keep them warm. Cultivation of seedlings It should be recalled that seed propagation does not guarantee the inheritance of color and other characteristics of mother plants by young lupins. Lupine from seeds is usually grown for the purpose of a breeding experiment. Violet and pink colors dominate, therefore, they can be preserved in the next generation, and the white color is likely to be lost during seed reproduction. After the appearance of 2-3 true leaves, the seedlings are planted in a permanent place - do not delay the transplant, as the tap root system will become a significant hindrance to you.
The most favorable period for sowing is the time from late February to mid-April. Planting can be done in stages. Thus, you will increase the flowering time of the plant. Those planted earlier will bloom earlier. Those planted later will bloom after those that bloomed first.
To grow carnations from seeds for seedlings as a home flower, you can sow all year round, but this is best done closer to spring and summer. In open ground, sowing can be done in May. For growing carnation seedlings, the usual "Universal" soil purchased at the store will be enough. If you make up the soil yourself, then take equal parts of garden soil, peat and humus and add a little perlite or sand to them.
The soil should be with a neutral pH. If you have acidic soil, as in the Moscow region or those who live near a coniferous forest, then add some ash to the substrate. A container for planting seedlings can be of the most diverse shapes and from any material. The main condition is that there are “good” drainage holes at the bottom. A drainage layer should be laid at the bottom of the container. It can be small expanded clay or crushed foam. Carnation seeds differ depending on the species. Some are very small, and some are slightly larger.
If the seeds are small, like those of the grass carnation, then they do not need to be buried in the ground. It is enough just to scatter a thin layer on the surface of a pre-moistened substrate. The seeds are slightly larger, like those of the Turkish carnation. We plant carnations for seedlings in grooves, at a distance of 2–2.5 cm from each other and deepen them into the ground by 0.5 cm. Sprinkle a layer of earth on top. Then lightly press the seeds to the ground with your hands. We water the earth before we start sowing so that the seeds do not go deeper than necessary if we water after sowing. Then you can sprinkle them 2-3 more times from a spray bottle and cover with a film or glass. We place the crops in a bright and warm place. It is desirable that in the room where the crops will stand, the temperature should not be more than + 18 ... + 20 degrees. If you do everything right, then in 10-12 days you will have shoots. After the emergence of seedlings, it is desirable to reduce the temperature to +12 ... +15 degrees.
We air the crops daily. As soon as the seedlings hatch, we begin to increase the ventilation time. Remove the cover after a few days. We put in a brighter place. Plants need bright light, so it is advisable to use a phytolamp or an ordinary lamp.
To grow carnations from seeds for seedlings as a home flower, you can sow all year round, but this is best done closer to spring and summer. In open ground, sowing can be done in May. For growing carnation seedlings, the usual "Universal" soil purchased at the store will be enough. If you make up the soil yourself, then take equal parts of garden soil, peat and humus and add a little perlite or sand to them.
The soil should be with a neutral pH. If you have acidic soil, as in the Moscow region or those who live near a coniferous forest, then add some ash to the substrate. A container for planting seedlings can be of the most diverse shapes and from any material. The main condition is that there are “good” drainage holes at the bottom. A drainage layer should be laid at the bottom of the container. It can be small expanded clay or crushed foam. Carnation seeds differ depending on the species. Some are very small, and some are slightly larger.
If the seeds are small, like those of the grass carnation, then they do not need to be buried in the ground. It is enough just to scatter a thin layer on the surface of a pre-moistened substrate. The seeds are slightly larger, like those of the Turkish carnation. We plant carnations for seedlings in grooves, at a distance of 2–2.5 cm from each other and deepen them into the ground by 0.5 cm. Sprinkle a layer of earth on top. Then lightly press the seeds to the ground with your hands. We water the earth before we start sowing so that the seeds do not go deeper than necessary if we water after sowing. Then you can sprinkle them 2-3 more times from a spray bottle and cover with a film or glass. We place the crops in a bright and warm place. It is desirable that in the room where the crops will stand, the temperature should not be more than + 18 ... + 20 degrees. If you do everything right, then in 10-12 days you will have shoots. After the emergence of seedlings, it is desirable to reduce the temperature to +12 ... +15 degrees.
We air the crops daily. As soon as the seedlings hatch, we begin to increase the ventilation time. Remove the cover after a few days. We put in a brighter place. Plants need bright light, so it is advisable to use a phytolamp or an ordinary lamp.
Annual, stratification is not needed. Sowing in March-April for seedlings. Shoots appear in 7-14 days, at a temperature of 15-18 C.
For planting a house for seedlings:
- fill shallow containers with soil mixture;
- spray the soil abundantly;
- sow the seeds on the surface of the soil;
- sprinkle on top with a layer of earth no more than 5 mm thick;
- cover with foil and put in a warm place;
- periodically ventilate the greenhouse and moisten the soil;
- when seedlings appear (usually this happens after 2 weeks), remove the film and place the seedlings in the brightest place;
- after the formation of a pair of true leaves, dive seedlings into separate containers or remove excess sprouts.
Plants develop normally at a temperature of 15 C. Seedlings are planted in the ground in May-June. The distance between plants is 20-30 cm.
You can sow directly into the ground in May, as the frosts pass. Immortelle prefers a sunny place and light, dry, sandy soils are better. Watering, weeding. Loosening.
For planting a house for seedlings:
- fill shallow containers with soil mixture;
- spray the soil abundantly;
- sow the seeds on the surface of the soil;
- sprinkle on top with a layer of earth no more than 5 mm thick;
- cover with foil and put in a warm place;
- periodically ventilate the greenhouse and moisten the soil;
- when seedlings appear (usually this happens after 2 weeks), remove the film and place the seedlings in the brightest place;
- after the formation of a pair of true leaves, dive seedlings into separate containers or remove excess sprouts.
Plants develop normally at a temperature of 15 C. Seedlings are planted in the ground in May-June. The distance between plants is 20-30 cm.
You can sow directly into the ground in May, as the frosts pass. Immortelle prefers a sunny place and light, dry, sandy soils are better. Watering, weeding. Loosening.
Lupine seeds are sown for seedlings in a loose soil mixture for seed germination, consisting of peat (one part), soddy soil (one part) and sand (half part). Before sowing, the seeds are mixed with powdered root nodules of old lupins to promote the growth of nitrogen-absorbing bacteria. Shoots will appear in a week or two, and if you want all the seeds to sprout at the same time, you need to cover the crops with damp gauze and keep them warm. Cultivation of seedlings It should be recalled that seed propagation does not guarantee the inheritance of color and other characteristics of mother plants by young lupins. Lupine from seeds is usually grown for the purpose of a breeding experiment. Violet and pink colors dominate, therefore, they can be preserved in the next generation, and the white color is likely to be lost during seed reproduction. After the appearance of 2-3 true leaves, the seedlings are planted in a permanent place - do not delay the transplant, as the tap root system will become a significant hindrance to you.
Seeds are recommended to germinate in the light. Seeding is superficial. The substrate is light, acidic. You need to sow the seeds in a greenhouse. For this, a plastic container with a high transparent lid or a regular pot covered with polyethylene is suitable. The recommended temperature for seed germination is +25. Seeds are sown superficially, it is not necessary to sprinkle with earth. Further, it is necessary to maintain high humidity in the greenhouse and ventilate it several times a day so that mold does not appear. After the seedlings grow up a little, they need to be planted in separate pots and fertilized regularly. Preliminary maintenance at a temperature of 0-5 degrees for 2-3 weeks improves germination.
In nature, mallow reproduces on its own by self-sowing in the fall. In August - September (and sometimes in July), the seeds are immediately scattered to the chosen place, mulched with a 2-3 cm layer of humus. And, having marked the place of sowing with a sign, they forget about it until spring. With winter sowing, seedlings will appear in the spring at the appointed time, when the soil warms up enough, and the plants will bloom in the same season.
In April - May, the soil is still quite moist after snow melting and from rains, so tender seedlings do not need watering. The earth around the leaves that appear can be carefully shed, trying not to get on the green parts (under the root), dissolved mineral fertilizers with a predominance of nitrogen. This will help to quickly increase the required amount of leaf mass. After a while, the plant will release a flowering stem. For the formation of more buds and abundant flowering from early July to late September, the stock rose may need phosphorus-potassium top dressing.
In spring, it is also permissible to sow seeds directly into open ground. The algorithm of actions here is the same as in autumn. Sowing is carried out around the end of May, when the risk of return frosts has passed. The day before, the seeds are soaked in a solution of phytohormones. This manipulation contributes to the early awakening of dormant embryos, activates the development of the root system, and increases immunity to adverse factors.
It often happens that not all seeds sown germinate. Therefore, many gardeners sow them with a margin, which is why the opposite situation arises - plantings are thickened. If there are too many seedlings, they grow chaotically, interfering with each other, weaker plants should be removed. Further, the mallow grows on its own, without outside help. In the case of spring sowing, the leaves develop in the first year, forming a round low rosette. And only for the next season, the stock rose will have a stem with flowers. A hardy stock rose can winter well without shelter. If the variety is delicate or snowless winters are predicted, the planting site can be covered with mulch.
In areas with a difficult climate and short summers, in order to admire the flowering, it is reasonable to grow heat-loving mallow through seedlings. Sowing seeds at home or in greenhouse conditions is carried out in February with additional lighting. March - April are considered more suitable dates due to increasing daylight hours. Early sowing dates allow plants to gain strength for a successful wintering even in the case of a cold autumn. Mallow has a powerful tap root. Due to the peculiarities of the structure of the root system, it is recommended to grow a flower without a pick and transplant it together with an earthen clod. As planting containers, it is better to take peat or cardboard cups with a larger volume so that the roots have enough space for full development until they are transplanted directly into the ground. Such containers, having previously broken out the bottom, are placed in the ground, as is, entirely, without disturbing the root system of the plant, even by transshipment. The prepared loose soil mixture is steamed or calcined. Adding perlite in a ratio of 1:3 will increase breathability. Seeds are pre-soaked in warm water with a growth stimulator diluted according to the instructions. Seeds swell from nutrient moisture, wake up and sprout faster. They are laid out in separate pots, deepening only 2-3 cm, covered with a film and placed under phytolamps. It remains to carefully monitor the moderate soil moisture and ambient temperature. It should be about 18-20 degrees.
In April - May, the soil is still quite moist after snow melting and from rains, so tender seedlings do not need watering. The earth around the leaves that appear can be carefully shed, trying not to get on the green parts (under the root), dissolved mineral fertilizers with a predominance of nitrogen. This will help to quickly increase the required amount of leaf mass. After a while, the plant will release a flowering stem. For the formation of more buds and abundant flowering from early July to late September, the stock rose may need phosphorus-potassium top dressing.
In spring, it is also permissible to sow seeds directly into open ground. The algorithm of actions here is the same as in autumn. Sowing is carried out around the end of May, when the risk of return frosts has passed. The day before, the seeds are soaked in a solution of phytohormones. This manipulation contributes to the early awakening of dormant embryos, activates the development of the root system, and increases immunity to adverse factors.
It often happens that not all seeds sown germinate. Therefore, many gardeners sow them with a margin, which is why the opposite situation arises - plantings are thickened. If there are too many seedlings, they grow chaotically, interfering with each other, weaker plants should be removed. Further, the mallow grows on its own, without outside help. In the case of spring sowing, the leaves develop in the first year, forming a round low rosette. And only for the next season, the stock rose will have a stem with flowers. A hardy stock rose can winter well without shelter. If the variety is delicate or snowless winters are predicted, the planting site can be covered with mulch.
In areas with a difficult climate and short summers, in order to admire the flowering, it is reasonable to grow heat-loving mallow through seedlings. Sowing seeds at home or in greenhouse conditions is carried out in February with additional lighting. March - April are considered more suitable dates due to increasing daylight hours. Early sowing dates allow plants to gain strength for a successful wintering even in the case of a cold autumn. Mallow has a powerful tap root. Due to the peculiarities of the structure of the root system, it is recommended to grow a flower without a pick and transplant it together with an earthen clod. As planting containers, it is better to take peat or cardboard cups with a larger volume so that the roots have enough space for full development until they are transplanted directly into the ground. Such containers, having previously broken out the bottom, are placed in the ground, as is, entirely, without disturbing the root system of the plant, even by transshipment. The prepared loose soil mixture is steamed or calcined. Adding perlite in a ratio of 1:3 will increase breathability. Seeds are pre-soaked in warm water with a growth stimulator diluted according to the instructions. Seeds swell from nutrient moisture, wake up and sprout faster. They are laid out in separate pots, deepening only 2-3 cm, covered with a film and placed under phytolamps. It remains to carefully monitor the moderate soil moisture and ambient temperature. It should be about 18-20 degrees.
Sowing dates:
In early October, they are sown on prepared ridges before winter. Shelter before frost with fallen leaves or boards, for less freezing of the soil. Seedlings appear early in spring.
At home, you can sow at several times from February to March. Until then, keep the grains in the refrigerator. If at home or in a greenhouse there are conditions for additional illumination of seedlings, daylily seeds aged in the refrigerator for 3-4 weeks can be sown in containers with soil from October. When there are no such favorable conditions for the development of seedlings, then daylily seeds should be sown closer to March, when the frequency and duration of sunny days increase.
Pre-sowing treatment:
For better germination, soak the seeds in a solution of hydrogen peroxide (a teaspoon per 0.5 liters of water). Daily change the liquid to fresh or germinate on cotton pads. Moisten the base well, lay the seeds between the layers. Cover with a bag, put in the refrigerator.
Check daily for broken seeds. The bulk awakens in 5-7 days. Single copies can "think" for a month or more.
Soaking in a camphor solution helps to wake up the "slow-thinkers". Alcohol tincture 5 g is added to a liter of water. Soak seeds for 3 days. Hatched specimens are planted immediately. Overexposure leads to decay of planting material.
Sowing:
We make drainage holes in the container. We prepare a mixture of purchased land with the addition of sand. Pour into boxes 10 cm high. We spill with a weak solution of potassium permanganate. We spread the seeds on the surface. Sprinkle the substrate with a layer of 0.3-0.5 cm. With a shallow incorporation during germination, the grains come out, with a deep one, they sprout tightly. Therefore, you need to monitor landings daily. Sprinkle protruding specimens with soil so that they do not dry out.
The soil is kept moderately moist. Until the moment of germination, the boxes are covered with a film. Then it is gradually removed.
Experienced gardeners note a good result of sowing in peat tablets one seed at a time. The balanced composition of the soil with the addition of fertilizers helps to get friendly shoots faster. There is no need for picking.
Soak semi-finished products in water, saturating the soil. The seed is laid out in the recesses in the middle of the tablet, sprinkled with river sand on top. They put it in a tray. With slight drying, water is added to the container. Before planting in open ground, remove the mesh that holds the peat outside.
In early October, they are sown on prepared ridges before winter. Shelter before frost with fallen leaves or boards, for less freezing of the soil. Seedlings appear early in spring.
At home, you can sow at several times from February to March. Until then, keep the grains in the refrigerator. If at home or in a greenhouse there are conditions for additional illumination of seedlings, daylily seeds aged in the refrigerator for 3-4 weeks can be sown in containers with soil from October. When there are no such favorable conditions for the development of seedlings, then daylily seeds should be sown closer to March, when the frequency and duration of sunny days increase.
Pre-sowing treatment:
For better germination, soak the seeds in a solution of hydrogen peroxide (a teaspoon per 0.5 liters of water). Daily change the liquid to fresh or germinate on cotton pads. Moisten the base well, lay the seeds between the layers. Cover with a bag, put in the refrigerator.
Check daily for broken seeds. The bulk awakens in 5-7 days. Single copies can "think" for a month or more.
Soaking in a camphor solution helps to wake up the "slow-thinkers". Alcohol tincture 5 g is added to a liter of water. Soak seeds for 3 days. Hatched specimens are planted immediately. Overexposure leads to decay of planting material.
Sowing:
We make drainage holes in the container. We prepare a mixture of purchased land with the addition of sand. Pour into boxes 10 cm high. We spill with a weak solution of potassium permanganate. We spread the seeds on the surface. Sprinkle the substrate with a layer of 0.3-0.5 cm. With a shallow incorporation during germination, the grains come out, with a deep one, they sprout tightly. Therefore, you need to monitor landings daily. Sprinkle protruding specimens with soil so that they do not dry out.
The soil is kept moderately moist. Until the moment of germination, the boxes are covered with a film. Then it is gradually removed.
Experienced gardeners note a good result of sowing in peat tablets one seed at a time. The balanced composition of the soil with the addition of fertilizers helps to get friendly shoots faster. There is no need for picking.
Soak semi-finished products in water, saturating the soil. The seed is laid out in the recesses in the middle of the tablet, sprinkled with river sand on top. They put it in a tray. With slight drying, water is added to the container. Before planting in open ground, remove the mesh that holds the peat outside.
The seed material of irises has its own characteristics: for germination, they require stratification.
Seeds can be sown in autumn or spring.
During autumn sowing, stratification occurs in a natural way. Under the influence of cold temperatures with the onset of heat, green sprouts will appear on the beds. Plants grown by winter sowing are more viable and do not stretch. Seeds are sown in mid-September. For the winter, the bed is covered with earth by 20 centimeters.
If it was decided to grow iris by sowing seeds in the spring, then it is necessary to carry out artificial stratification. Seeds are laid out in a container, wrapped in a damp cloth. Within 1-2 months, the seed should be in the refrigerator. The fabric should always be damp, but do not allow mold to form.
In February or March, the seeds are sown in loose soil in separate cups. The embedment depth is not more than 2 cm. Irises need to be grown in good light and in warmth.
Seeds can be sown in autumn or spring.
During autumn sowing, stratification occurs in a natural way. Under the influence of cold temperatures with the onset of heat, green sprouts will appear on the beds. Plants grown by winter sowing are more viable and do not stretch. Seeds are sown in mid-September. For the winter, the bed is covered with earth by 20 centimeters.
If it was decided to grow iris by sowing seeds in the spring, then it is necessary to carry out artificial stratification. Seeds are laid out in a container, wrapped in a damp cloth. Within 1-2 months, the seed should be in the refrigerator. The fabric should always be damp, but do not allow mold to form.
In February or March, the seeds are sown in loose soil in separate cups. The embedment depth is not more than 2 cm. Irises need to be grown in good light and in warmth.
Seeds are not naturally dormant and can be sown without prior treatment. To promote seed germination, soak seeds in room temperature water for 12 hours before sowing. Sow the seeds in containers filled with all-purpose soil and sprinkle a light layer of earth on top. Then gently compact before watering and cover with a plastic bag or glass. Growing temperature from +20 to +25 °С. Seeds will germinate in 2-4 weeks.
Seeds are sown for seedlings in March. Sow the seeds in a seedling box, shallow. Sprinkle with soil and put in a warm place with diffused lighting. Seedling care consists in moistening the soil. Grown up and strengthened sprouts are planted on the site in May. Sowing seeds in open ground is carried out when there is no threat of frost, although sowing in November before winter is considered the best sowing time. During the winter period, the seeds undergo stratification in natural conditions, seedlings are considered more viable. In any case, the sowing depth is a centimeter. If sowing in the spring, keep the soil moist at all times. Buzulnik, grown from seeds, blooms no earlier than the fourth year.
Perennial. If annual varieties of poppy begin to bloom in the year of planting, then perennial varieties are likely to bloom the next season (if the seeds are sown in the fall). When planted in spring, flowers will appear on the bushes later than in autumn sowing. Poppies bloom in early summer.
The fruits of this plant is a box, covered with a "lid" on top. When it dries, small holes appear between it and the lid. If you leave a box with seeds on a bush, as a result of self-seeding, seeds will spill out through these holes. And this cycle will be repeated every year.
Planting an oriental perennial poppy is not at all difficult. Sowing material is planted immediately in the ground either in spring or autumn. As mentioned earlier, flowers after sowing will appear in the second or even third year.
If the seeds are too small, they can not even be deepened much, but only slightly pressed.
When planting seeds for seedlings, when 5 young leaves appear, plants can be planted in beds or flower beds. But, as a rule, the seedling method is not used, and the seeds are immediately sown in a permanent place.
There is an opinion that stratification is necessary for good germination of poppy seeds. That is why experienced gardeners advise sowing in early spring, when there is a chance of frost. If planting is carried out in a region with a mild climate, it is better to sow poppies in the fall so that the seeds receive the necessary stratification. They will thrive in the spring.
Before planting a flower garden, you just need to loosen the ground with a rake and scatter the seed. Some flower growers mix it with sand. After that, the seeds are sprinkled on top with a thin layer of earth. At the same time, the main thing is not to deepen them too much, because later they may simply not have enough strength to ascend. The landing site must be watered, but not heavily flooded with water.
The fruits of this plant is a box, covered with a "lid" on top. When it dries, small holes appear between it and the lid. If you leave a box with seeds on a bush, as a result of self-seeding, seeds will spill out through these holes. And this cycle will be repeated every year.
Planting an oriental perennial poppy is not at all difficult. Sowing material is planted immediately in the ground either in spring or autumn. As mentioned earlier, flowers after sowing will appear in the second or even third year.
If the seeds are too small, they can not even be deepened much, but only slightly pressed.
When planting seeds for seedlings, when 5 young leaves appear, plants can be planted in beds or flower beds. But, as a rule, the seedling method is not used, and the seeds are immediately sown in a permanent place.
There is an opinion that stratification is necessary for good germination of poppy seeds. That is why experienced gardeners advise sowing in early spring, when there is a chance of frost. If planting is carried out in a region with a mild climate, it is better to sow poppies in the fall so that the seeds receive the necessary stratification. They will thrive in the spring.
Before planting a flower garden, you just need to loosen the ground with a rake and scatter the seed. Some flower growers mix it with sand. After that, the seeds are sprinkled on top with a thin layer of earth. At the same time, the main thing is not to deepen them too much, because later they may simply not have enough strength to ascend. The landing site must be watered, but not heavily flooded with water.
Seeds are sown in August-September.
In August and September they are planted in a cold frame or greenhouse; Picking is done in seedling boxes and placed for overwintering in a well-ventilated greenhouse or in a cold frame.
Germination in spring is slower. In this case, a two-stage stratification is desirable: 1 week at 18-20C, then 1-2 months at 2-5C.
The seeds are laid out on the surface, pressed a little, no deeper than 2 mm. There is no need to cover it with soil. The containers with the seed are covered with film, creating a greenhouse effect. They need to be placed where the light is diffused. The earth must not dry out. Watering is only drip.
In August and September they are planted in a cold frame or greenhouse; Picking is done in seedling boxes and placed for overwintering in a well-ventilated greenhouse or in a cold frame.
Germination in spring is slower. In this case, a two-stage stratification is desirable: 1 week at 18-20C, then 1-2 months at 2-5C.
The seeds are laid out on the surface, pressed a little, no deeper than 2 mm. There is no need to cover it with soil. The containers with the seed are covered with film, creating a greenhouse effect. They need to be placed where the light is diffused. The earth must not dry out. Watering is only drip.
Seeds are sown in June in the soil to a depth of no more than 1 cm. The seeds will undergo natural stratification and seedlings will form only next year, after which the seedlings are picked and transplanted for growing.
If the hellebore is planted next year, then you need to sow the seeds in a container and keep it in room conditions for 3 months, and then place the container in the refrigerator for 2-3 months; germination in the refrigerator can begin in a month, or it can take 3 month. The pot must be watered and ensure that mold does not grow in it. This way the seeds will undergo two-stage stratification and germinate. Seedlings, as a rule, begin to appear already in December-January, planting in open ground begins around mid-summer, by autumn they are already growing well and wintering without problems.
When planting, it is necessary to prepare a drainage layer of expanded clay or broken bricks and fairly fertile soil.
Care includes moderate watering, regular feeding with organic and mineral fertilizers.
If the hellebore is planted next year, then you need to sow the seeds in a container and keep it in room conditions for 3 months, and then place the container in the refrigerator for 2-3 months; germination in the refrigerator can begin in a month, or it can take 3 month. The pot must be watered and ensure that mold does not grow in it. This way the seeds will undergo two-stage stratification and germinate. Seedlings, as a rule, begin to appear already in December-January, planting in open ground begins around mid-summer, by autumn they are already growing well and wintering without problems.
When planting, it is necessary to prepare a drainage layer of expanded clay or broken bricks and fairly fertile soil.
Care includes moderate watering, regular feeding with organic and mineral fertilizers.
Stratification is necessary: soak seeds in hydrogen peroxide for 30 minutes; place in a napkin soaked in hydrogen peroxide; put in a container and put in the refrigerator for 1.5-2 months. Regularly inspect the seeds and change the napkin if mold appears.
Germinate seeds are planted in pots or peat tablets, placed in a well-lit place and regularly watered, preventing the soil from drying out. After the buds appear, you can feed them with complex fertilizer. In the spring, the grown bushes are planted in the garden.
It is recommended to start preparing for winter already in August: add phosphorus and potassium fertilizers, which significantly increase the winter hardiness of roses.
Pinching is done at the beginning of autumn, this accelerates the ripening and lignification of young shoots. After bending (before the onset of negative temperatures), the bushes are covered using an air-dry method.
Germinate seeds are planted in pots or peat tablets, placed in a well-lit place and regularly watered, preventing the soil from drying out. After the buds appear, you can feed them with complex fertilizer. In the spring, the grown bushes are planted in the garden.
It is recommended to start preparing for winter already in August: add phosphorus and potassium fertilizers, which significantly increase the winter hardiness of roses.
Pinching is done at the beginning of autumn, this accelerates the ripening and lignification of young shoots. After bending (before the onset of negative temperatures), the bushes are covered using an air-dry method.
The seeds are sown in a moistened substrate, covered with a thin layer of soil, covered with film and the temperature is maintained within +25-+28C. The shoots appear slowly, so you need to be patient.
After the shoots appear, they are pricked out into separate pots, without thickening the planting. When the plants grow and get stronger enough, they are transplanted into larger pots.
After the shoots appear, they are pricked out into separate pots, without thickening the planting. When the plants grow and get stronger enough, they are transplanted into larger pots.
Important!
Seeds that have passed stratification, we send wet in perlite, and if you received dry seeds (without perlite), which means that they have not passed stratification and you, if it is required for seeds, need to stratify!