Bean & Legume Seeds — Phaseolus, Peas, Soybean, Chickpea, Cowpea, Mung, Peanut
Twenty open-pollinated varieties across eight legume genera. The only crop group that gives back to the soil while feeding you — every variety in this collection fixes atmospheric nitrogen through root bacteria, improving the bed for everything planted after. All SALE −40%.
The crop that feeds you and feeds the soil
Legumes are the only major food crop group that adds fertility rather than depleting it. Every plant in this collection forms a symbiotic relationship with Rhizobium bacteria in the soil — the bacteria colonise the roots, fix atmospheric nitrogen into plant-available ammonia, and leave measurable residues in the soil after harvest. A well-grown bean or pea crop can contribute 60–200 kg of nitrogen per hectare to subsequent crops, the equivalent of a significant fertiliser application — without any synthetic input.
The diversity in this collection is unusual for a single seed supplier. Most garden centres sell 3–5 varieties of Phaseolus vulgaris — one species. This page covers 8 general: Phaseolus, Pisum, Glycine, Vigna, Cicer, Vicia, Arachis, and Lablab. Each genus has meaningfully different growing conditions, flavour profile, cooking properties, and cultural history. A collection this broad requires sourcing across Russia, Central Asia, and the Mediterranean — which is exactly the origin range of our stock.
The collection spans the full season and temperature range. Pisum sativum (pea) is the cool-season entry point — it germinates at 4°C and is sown weeks before the last frost. Phaseolus vulgaris (French, kidney, black turtle, snap beans) needs warmth above 15°C. Cicer arietinum (chickpea) and Glycine max (soybean) need the longest season — 90–120 days — but the Ural-adapted Lira soybean and the compact chickpeas in this collection are specifically chosen for shorter growing seasons than their tropical cousins. Vigna radiata (mung bean) is the only variety that doubles as a kitchen-sprouting seed, edible 10–14 days from wetting — no soil required.
Bean and pea seeds deteriorate faster than most vegetable seeds — oil content in the seed accelerates rancidity at warm storage temperatures. Our entire legume stock is kept at 4–8°C between harvests and dispatched sealed in moisture-proof packets. Germination tested at 20–24°C; category average 86–93% across all varieties in this collection. All seeds are open-pollinated; seed-saving produces true-to-type offspring indefinitely. About our collection →
Eight legume genera — what each brings to the garden
The diversity in this collection spans cool-season to tropical, climbing to bush, fresh-eating to long-storage dry beans
Phaseolus Bean
Phaseolus vulgarisThe most versatile legume genus in the collection. Seven varieties cover the full spectrum: Russian Black (small, intensely flavoured broad bean type, Vicia faba, cold-tolerant), Red Riding Hood (decorative red climbing bean, pods and dry seeds edible), White (classic white haricot for cassoulet and stews), Black Turtle Preto (the Latin American staple, thin skin, creamy texture when cooked), Kidney Red Speckled (large, meaty, classic for chilli), Marron (pinto-type speckled), and Black-Eyed (Vigna unguiculata — technically a cowpea, cooked identically). All need soil above 15°C; sow after last frost. Harvest pods green for fresh eating at 55–65 days, or leave to dry on the plant for 90–100 days.
Garden Pea
Pisum sativumThe cool-season champion — sow 4–6 weeks before the last frost date, as soon as soil reaches 7°C. Three varieties: Altai Emerald (bred in Siberia's Altai region for short seasons, deep green peas, 60–65 days), Miracle of Kelvedon (English heritage variety dating to the 1920s, heavy-cropping wrinkled pea, classic garden pea flavour, 65–70 days), and Karubi Curly (semi-leafless dwarf type, curling tendrils, stands without support, 60 days). Pisum sativum fixes 40–150 kg nitrogen per hectare per growing season. Cut vines at ground level after harvest — leave the nitrogen-rich roots in the soil to decompose.
Soybean
Glycine maxTwo complementary varieties. Sweet Soybean Yellow Lira was bred at the Ural agricultural institute specifically for short-season northern growing — it matures in 100–110 days and performs at latitudes (55–58°N) where standard soybeans fail entirely. The protein content of Lira at full maturity is 38–40% — standard for soybean and significantly higher than any other legume in this collection. Black Soybeans are an Asian heritage variety with a nuttier, richer flavour than yellow soy, traditionally eaten as edamame (harvested green at 80% maturity) or fermented. Both need full sun and soil above 12°C for germination.
Chickpea
Cicer arietinumTwo types: Turkish Chickpea (the standard desi-type, compact round seed, cream-coloured, the same variety used across Central Asia and the Caucasus for thousands of years) and Black Chickpea (smaller, with a dark green-black seed coat and an earthier, more complex flavour than the white type — common in Indian cooking as kala chana). Chickpea is the most drought-tolerant legume in this collection — it evolved in semi-arid Mediterranean and West Asian climates and performs well with 20–30% less water than bean or pea. Needs 90–110 days and soil consistently above 10°C. Direct-sow in early spring; chickpea tolerates light frost at seedling stage unlike beans.
Cowpea, Mung & Vigna
Vigna unguiculata / V. radiataThree distinct Vigna types. Mung Bean (Vigna radiata, 50 seeds/pack) is the most heat-tolerant legume in the collection and the only one that is a useful sprouting seed — rinse and drain twice daily, edible sprouts in 10–14 days without any soil. For outdoor growing: direct-sow after last frost, harvest dry seeds at 60–90 days. Black-Eyed Cowpea (Vigna unguiculata) is the West African staple, now grown across Southern Europe and Central Asia — extremely drought-resistant, fixes nitrogen efficiently in poor soils, 75–85 days. Vigna Long Green Cowpea produces pods up to 40–60 cm long, harvested young and eaten as a green vegetable in stir-fries.
Peanut & Lablab
Arachis hypogaea / Lablab purpureusThree unusual legumes. Selective Peanuts (Arachis hypogaea, 25 seeds) and Wild Striped Peanuts (5 seeds, rare un-bred landrace with stronger shell and more intense flavour than commercial types) are groundnuts — after flowering, the fertilised ovary bends down and pushes into the soil, where the peanut pod develops underground. Unlike any other legume in this collection. They need a long warm season (130–150 days, sandy well-drained soil) but can be grown in containers and in greenhouses in cooler climates. Lablab (Lablab purpureus) is the ornamental-edible dual-use legume: striking purple flowers and pods on a fast-growing 3–4 m climbing vine, edible young pods, beans, and leaves — a staple across East Africa and South Asia.
How to grow beans and legumes from seed — step by step
Six steps that apply across every variety in this collection — with species-specific notes where timing differs
Choose the right sowing window for the genus
Timing is the single biggest factor in legume success. Pea (Pisum): sow outdoors 4–6 weeks before last frost, soil at 7°C minimum. Broad bean (Vicia faba): same timing as pea. Phaseolus beans, cowpea, mung: sow after last frost when soil reaches 15°C — these genera rot quickly in cold wet soil. Chickpea: sow in early spring, tolerates light frost at seedling stage. Soybean: soil above 12°C, no frost risk. Peanut: soil above 18°C, full sun, long season (130+ days from sowing). Lablab: start indoors 4 weeks before last frost, transplant as seedling.
Inoculate seeds with Rhizobium before sowing
Legumes fix nitrogen only when colonised by the correct Rhizobium strain. If beans or peas have not been grown in your soil in the past 3–5 years, the bacteria may be absent or at low density. Inoculate seeds by moistening them slightly, dusting with commercial legume inoculant powder (available from garden suppliers), and sowing immediately. Inoculated crops fix 2–4 times more nitrogen and yield 20–40% better in legume-naive soils. Do not use inoculant with chlorinated tap water — the chlorine kills the bacteria. The pink or reddish nodules visible on roots of a well-inoculated plant confirm active nitrogen fixation.
Sowing depth, spacing, and support
Sow peas and beans at 3–5 cm depth, 8–15 cm apart in the row, rows 40–60 cm apart. Large seeds (broad bean, peanut) go 5–7 cm deep. Chickpea 4–5 cm. Mung bean 2–3 cm. Climbing varieties (Vigna long cowpea, Lablab, Red Riding Hood bean) need support — install a trellis or canes of at least 1.8 m before sowing. Karubi Curly pea is semi-leafless and stands without support. Peanut requires no support but needs mounded soil around the base as flowers develop, so the pegs can enter the ground easily.
Watering — consistent moisture, especially at flowering
Legumes are moderately drought-tolerant before flowering but extremely sensitive to water stress during flower set and pod fill. Pea flowering typically occurs 45–55 days after sowing; bean flowering at 40–50 days. Water stress during this 2–3 week window causes flower drop and drastically reduces yield. Aim for 20–25 mm per week during flowering. Avoid overhead watering on open flowers — it knocks pollen and increases the risk of botrytis (grey mould). Water at soil level or use drip irrigation.
Harvest timing — fresh pods vs dry seeds
Every variety in this collection can be harvested at two stages. Fresh/green: harvest pods when seeds inside are fully formed but before pod skin starts to dry — this gives the sweetest flavour and tenderest texture. For peas this window is 3–5 days wide; check daily once pods start to swell. Dry/storage: leave pods on the plant until the plant dies back and pods are fully dry and papery. Harvest in dry weather; spread pods in a single layer indoors for 2–3 weeks before shelling. Dry beans and peas stored in sealed glass jars at room temperature keep for 2–3 years without loss of germination or flavour.
After harvest — leave roots, cut vines at ground level
Do not pull up legume roots at the end of the season. The nitrogen-fixing nodules on roots decompose in soil over 3–6 months, releasing 60–200 kg of nitrogen per hectare depending on crop and season length. Cut vines at ground level and compost the above-ground material, or leave it as mulch. Plant a nitrogen-hungry crop (brassica, corn, squash, tomato) in the same bed the following season — they will benefit directly from the fixed nitrogen left by the legume roots. This legume-brassica or legume-corn rotation is one of the oldest and most effective fertility systems in agriculture.
Pinch the growing tips of broad beans and peas at first flower — double the yield
When broad bean (Vicia faba) and pea plants begin to set the first flowers, pinch out the top 10–15 cm of the main stem. This redirects the plant's energy from upward growth to pod production. More importantly, the growing tip of broad beans is the primary habitat for blackfly (Aphis fabae) — the most damaging pest on this crop. Removing it before colonisation prevents the population explosion that can collapse a bean crop within two weeks. Pea tips removed at first flower in the same way will push axillary shoots from lower leaf nodes, significantly increasing the number of productive laterals and total pod count.
This technique is standard practice across Russia and Central Europe, rarely taught in Western gardening guides, and costs nothing. The pinched tips of broad bean are edible — steam briefly and use as a leaf vegetable with a mild bean flavour.
Nitrogen fixation — what it means for your garden
Legumes are the only major vegetable group that adds nitrogen to the soil instead of removing it. They do this through a symbiotic relationship with Rhizobium soil bacteria that colonise root nodules and convert atmospheric N&sub2; into NH&sub4;&sup+; (ammonium) — plant-available nitrogen that stays in the soil after the crop is removed.
Measured contributions per growing season: garden pea 40–150 kg N/ha · broad bean 100–250 kg N/ha · soybean 60–200 kg N/ha · cowpea 50–130 kg N/ha · chickpea 40–80 kg N/ha. A single bed of broad beans grown to maturity and left with roots intact can provide enough nitrogen for a full season of nitrogen-hungry brassicas without any additional fertiliser.
Practical rule: rotate legumes with brassicas (cabbage, broccoli, kale), corn, or alliums every 3–4 years for best soil health. Never grow the same legume genus in the same bed two seasons in a row — Fusarium root rot and Sclerotinia white mould build up quickly in monoculture legume soil.
Legume comparison — choosing the right variety for your conditions
Key characteristics across the main genera in this collection
| Characteristic | Pea (Pisum sativum) | Phaseolus Bean | Chickpea (Cicer) | Soybean (Glycine) |
|---|---|---|---|---|
| Min. soil temp to sow | 7°C — cold-season crop | 15°C — warm-season | 10°C — tolerates light frost | 12°C — warm-season |
| Days to harvest | 60–70 | 60–100 (fresh / dry) | 90–110 | 100–120 |
| Nitrogen fixed (kg N/ha) | 40–150 | 20–100 | 40–80 | 60–200 |
| Protein (dry seed) | ~24% | 21–23% | ~20% | 38–40% (highest) |
| Drought tolerance | Moderate | Low–moderate | High — evolved in arid regions | Moderate |
| Container growing | Yes, 25 cm depth | Yes, 30 cm (dwarf types) | Yes, 25–30 cm | Yes, 30–35 cm minimum |
Common mistakes with beans and legumes — and how to avoid them
The reasons most legume crop failures happen, based on grower feedback each season
Sowing Phaseolus beans in cold soil
The single most common failure with French, kidney, and snap beans. Below 15°C, seeds absorb water but cannot germinate fast enough — they sit wet in cold soil and rot within 7–10 days. Experienced growers wait until soil reaches 17–18°C to be safe, even if it means sowing 2–3 weeks later than neighbours. A late but germinating crop always outperforms an early but rotted attempt. Peas and broad beans do not have this problem — they are adapted for cold germination.
Adding nitrogen fertiliser to legumes
Applying nitrogen-rich fertiliser (manure, compost, blood meal, synthetic NPK) to legumes suppresses nitrogen fixation. The plant detects high nitrogen in the soil and stops signalling for Rhizobium colonisation — root nodules are costly to maintain and the plant simply stops forming them. Result: you pay for fertiliser, get lush foliage, and lose the nitrogen-fixing benefit entirely. Legumes grow better in moderately infertile soil. Add only phosphorus and potassium if the soil is deficient; avoid nitrogen at all stages.
Pulling up plants roots and all at harvest
When you pull out a legume root, all the nitrogen in the nodules leaves with the root. The nitrogen benefit comes from nodule decomposition in the soil. Always cut vines at ground level and leave roots in place. This single habit change can deliver 60–200 kg nitrogen equivalent per hectare to the next crop — visible as measurably greener growth in brassicas or corn the following season without any additional fertiliser.
Missing the fresh harvest window for peas
Peas left on the vine 5–7 days past peak sweetness convert their sugars to starch — the same biochemical process that happens at room temperature after harvest. A pea pod at the perfect stage is plump but the pod wall is still bright green and slightly flexible. Once the pod starts to yellow or shrink, the peas inside are starchy and mealy. Check pea plants every day once they start podding — the window at the Altai and Kelvedon varieties is 3–5 days wide.
Growing the same legume on the same bed every year
Fusarium oxysporum and Sclerotinia sclerotiorum (white mould) are soil-borne pathogens that specifically target legumes and build up rapidly in monoculture conditions. A bed that grew peas for 3 consecutive years can develop Fusarium populations that cause 40–60% crop losses. Rotate legumes on a 3–4 year cycle — grow them in the same bed no more than once every 3 years. Rotating with brassicas, alliums, and corn is ideal and also exploits the nitrogen left by the legume roots.
Eating kidney beans raw or undercooked
Raw and undercooked kidney beans (Phaseolus vulgaris) — including Kidney Red Speckled, White, Black Turtle, and Marron in this collection — contain phytohaemagglutinin (PHA), a lectin that causes severe food poisoning at concentrations of 5–10 beans. Symptoms: intense nausea, vomiting, and diarrhoea within 1–3 hours. The solution is simple and absolute: boil vigorously for 10 minutes before any cooking (slow cookers are insufficient — they do not reach high enough temperatures). All other legumes in this collection — peas, chickpeas, mung bean, soybean, broad bean, cowpea, peanut — are safe to eat raw in small quantities.
Why source legume seeds from Oreshka
Three concrete advantages over mainstream garden centre stock
Unusual genera unavailable elsewhere
Most seed suppliers sell Phaseolus vulgaris in 3–5 colours. This collection adds Glycine max (Ural-adapted soybean), Vigna radiata (mung bean for sprouting), Vigna unguiculata (cowpea, two types), Cicer arietinum black chickpea, Arachis hypogaea wild-type peanut, and Lablab purpureus — genera that are genuinely rare in European seed catalogues and absent from most garden centres entirely.
Fresh seeds, stored cold, tested before dispatch
Legume seeds deteriorate faster than most vegetable seeds due to high oil content. Our stock is held at 4–8°C between harvests and dispatched in sealed moisture-proof packets. Germination tested at 20–24°C before each season; category average 86–93% — well above the EU minimum of 75% for bean and pea seed lots sold commercially.
Open-pollinated — seed-saving returns the same variety
Every variety in this collection is open-pollinated. Select your best plants, allow one or two pods to fully dry on the plant, shell them, dry indoors for 2 weeks, store sealed. The saved seed will produce true-to-type plants the following season, adapted slightly to your specific soil and microclimate with each generation. F1 hybrid legumes — which dominate commercial catalogues — do not work this way. They require annual seed purchases.
Frequently asked questions
Which bean is easiest to grow from seed for beginners?
Phaseolus vulgaris — any of the French, kidney, or black turtle bean varieties — is the easiest entry point. Direct-sow after last frost when soil reaches 15°C, harvest fresh pods at 55–65 days or dry seeds at 90–100 days. No thinning required, no staking needed for bush types, high germination rate (88–92%), and mistakes in watering or feeding have less drastic consequences than with peas. Sugar Snap Pea Ambrosia is the fastest result if you want something edible quickly: pods sweet enough to eat raw, ready at 60–65 days.
Can I grow beans and peas in Zone 5 or Northern Europe (UK, Germany, Scandinavia)?
Yes, with variety selection. All three pea varieties (Altai Emerald, Miracle of Kelvedon, Karubi) were specifically selected or trialled in continental climates (USDA Zone 3–5) and perform reliably in the UK, Germany, Netherlands, and southern Scandinavia. Altai Emerald was bred at the Altai agricultural institute in Siberia for exactly these conditions. Phaseolus beans need warm summers — they grow well in Zone 5–9. Soybean Lira was bred for 55–58°N latitude (comparable to Edinburgh or Copenhagen) and is one of the few soybean varieties that can complete its season in Northern Europe without polytunnel assistance. Chickpea and cowpea are more challenging in Zone 5 but possible in a warm year or under cloche.
What is the difference between beans, peas, and legumes?
All are legumes — members of the family Fabaceae, defined botanically by their pod-enclosed seeds and symbiotic nitrogen fixation. The word "bean" is informal and covers several unrelated genera: Phaseolus (French, kidney, snap), Vicia (broad/fava), Vigna (cowpea, mung, black-eyed), and Glycine (soybean) are all called "beans." "Pea" refers primarily to Pisum sativum but also to chickpea (Cicer), which is taxonomically a bean. The distinction that matters for growing is not the common name but the temperature requirement: cool-season legumes (Pisum, Vicia, Cicer) are sown in early spring before last frost; warm-season legumes (Phaseolus, Vigna, Glycine, Arachis) are sown after frost risk passes.
Can legumes be grown in containers or pots?
Yes. Container depth is the main constraint. Peas (dwarf types, Karubi): 25–30 cm. Bush French beans: 30 cm. Chickpea: 25–30 cm. Mung bean: 25 cm. Soybean: 30–35 cm minimum. Peanut: 30–40 cm, ideally in a fabric pot (peanut pegs need loose substrate to penetrate). Climbing varieties (Vigna long cowpea, Lablab, Red Riding Hood) need 40–50 cm depth and a secure trellis structure. Use well-draining potting compost — legumes are highly sensitive to waterlogging, which kills root nodules within 48 hours of saturation.
How long does it take to harvest beans and peas from seed?
Fastest to slowest for fresh/green harvest: Sugar Snap Pea 60–65 days; Garden peas 60–70 days; Phaseolus beans (fresh pod) 55–70 days; Mung bean 10–14 days as sprouts, 60–90 days as dry seed; Broad bean 80–90 days; Cowpea 75–85 days; Chickpea 90–110 days; Soybean 80 days for edamame stage, 100–120 days dry; Peanut 130–150 days. All dry seed harvests add 20–40 days to the fresh harvest timing.
Why buy legume seeds from Oreshka instead of a local garden centre?
Local garden centres typically offer 3–5 varieties of Phaseolus vulgaris and 2–3 pea varieties — all mainstream F1 hybrids bred for commercial growing. This collection covers 8 legume genera with 20 open-pollinated varieties including Ural-adapted soybean (Lira, 55–58°N), black chickpea, mung bean, Lablab purpureus, wild-type peanut, and three cold-selected Russian pea varieties that outperform standard types in Zone 3–5 climates. All are open-pollinated and non-GMO; seed-saving is permitted and produces true-to-type offspring. Germination tested at 86–93% before dispatch — above EU commercial minimums.
Build a legume rotation that feeds your soil for years.
20 varieties · 8 genera · All SALE −40% · Open-pollinated · Ships worldwide
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