Agrotechnics for Growing Deciduous Trees from Seeds

Lauricaceae likes fertile, soft, slightly acidic soil with good drainage. Propagated by sowing seeds in autumn, stratification required in spring
Sow seeds 1.5-2 cm deep. Most seeds germinate in spring, some may take a year to germinate.
In the first year, the seedlings will grow to a maximum of 20-30 cm. With seed propagation, flowering usually begins in the 6th-7th year of life.

In nature, it takes 2 to 3 or more years to germinate. Embryo pre-development
at 25 - 30° for 8 - 12 months. Two-stage stratification is also recommended: I - at 20° (16 h) -30° (8 h) for 2 months, II - at 5° for 2 months.
Illumination and location. The plant prefers to grow in a sunny location, but can also tolerate penumbra. Can be placed on a window sill facing west or east, but if the plant has mottled leaves it will need a little more sun.
Temperatures. The holly does not tolerate heat and should therefore be kept at about 21 degrees Celsius in the rooms. In winter, it is necessary to reduce the temperature range to 10-15 units, but below zero the thermometer column should not fall, otherwise the plant will stop its growth.
Air humidity. When growing holly in rooms, it is necessary to maintain high levels of moisture in the air. This is done by spraying the foliage regularly in spring and summer, and this procedure is also recommended if the plant has not managed to create a cool winter period and is left in a room where heating appliances and central heating radiators are in operation. Water is used warm and soft.
Watering. The main thing in the room care for holly leaf is not allowed to stagnate moisture in the stand under the pot, which can provoke rotting of the root system or complete drying of the ground ball, which will entail the desiccation of the leaves. The soil should dry out at the top in between waterings. During the spring and summer watering should be abundant, removing the water from the stand after 10-15 minutes, but with the onset of winter the watering should be reduced. Well-distilled, warm water is used.
Fertilise holly once a month from mid-spring to September. Compound mineral fertilisers are recommended.
Repotting and soil selection. Replace the pot every 2-3 years and prune the root system. Drainage should be provided at the bottom of the new container and small holes in the bottom for drainage of excess moisture. The soil can be a purchased universal soil, with the addition of river sand or perlite, as well as a small amount of crushed charcoal.
General rules of care. If the plant has buds of the same sex, keep holly plants with female and male flowers nearby for successful pollination. Regular shaping of the crown is required, but the spikes on the foliage should not be forgotten.

We recommend a long, or preferably two-stage
1. at 20-24°C, 2. at 0-3°C for 2-3 months. Sown to a depth of 1-1.5 cm.
The container for growing ornamental shrubs is thoroughly washed with hot water and filled with loose, fertile soil.
The acidity of the soil should be reduced, otherwise the plant will often become diseased and grow slowly.
A drainage layer of fine crushed stone or stones should be placed at the bottom of the container.
The seeds should be sown in loose and light soil to a depth of 1-1.5 cm. Afterwards they should also be covered with cling film or glass and kept at a temperature of 23-25 °C and in bright light. During the winter the plant needs to rest. Therefore, the temperature in the room with the plant is reduced to 12-15 degrees Celsius. Also during the winter, additional lighting is required.

Stratification is not necessary. Before sowing the seeds
are scalded with boiling water, then immersed in cold water and repeatedly. You can also pour boiling water over the seeds and leave them to cool down. Repeat with undiluted seeds. Sow to a depth of 0.5-1 cm.
Sow in loose, fertile soil. You can also sow under the winter or immediately after a thaw in spring. The depth of embedding the seeds is 1-2 cm, the distance between the seeds is 10-15 cm.You can grow hips through seedlings on the windowsill, sowing in February-month. The seedlings will need good light and moderate watering. Carefully dig up the grown trees with a large root ball (or free them from their seedling pots) and transplant them to a permanent growth place. A seeded bobwhite will flower in 4-5 years.

Soak the seeds in water overnight to speed up germination. Fill the container with seed-sowing soil and plant the seeds 2-3 centimetres deep and water well. Lower heat helps speed up germination, which should occur in 3-14 days. Plant in individual containers when the plants have grown. For planting in the open ground, choose a spot with plenty of sun and dig a hole that is slightly larger than the root ball of the seedling. Place the seedling in the hole so that the top of the rootball is flush with the soil line and backfill the hole with a mixture of soil and compost. After planting, lightly water the newly planted seedling, taking care not to overwater it.

Treatment with boiling water followed by stratification at 1 - 5° for 6-10 months is necessary.
In sumac seeds, the germ sleeps so sound that it may awaken only a few years after maturation. It is possible to speed up the awakening process artificially. To do this, it is necessary to create conditions for the seeds in which their shell will soften and the embryo will enter the awakening phase. Nowadays, it is quite easy to stratify seeds at home. The temperature required is between +1 and +5 degrees Celsius, which is how low the temperature in domestic freezers is. We recommend soaking them in concentrated sulphuric acid for 1 hour, then sowing them after a thorough rinsing or pouring hot water (80-90°C) and letting them cool and soak for 24 hours. Treat the seeds with fungicide to reduce the chance of rotting. Toss the soil substrate of compost, coarse sand and potting soil in an oven or microwave to kill any pathogenic bacteria or micro-organisms present. Fill a small pot with potting soil and sow the seeds. Water the potting soil. Place the pot with the seeds in a container or plastic bag with a lock and store it in the refrigerator for 6 to 10 months. In the spring you will have the seed ready to be planted outdoors. If you don't want to do any stratification, sow in the autumn. In that case, nature will take care of the seed itself. But then the seeds may not germinate in the first year.

Stratification is not necessary. Sowing is superficial. Constant moisture must be maintained. The paulownia seeds should be sown superficially in a tray of soil without being buried or covered with soil. Dump the seeds on the damp ground, then spray them well with a sprayer to soak the ground and the seeds themselves, then cover with stretch film and put them on a warm and semi-sunny window sill for 7-12 days. Every 2 days, open it for 10 minutes so that it can air out and prevent mould. Sprouts should appear on days 7-12.

Two-stage stratification is recommended:
I at 20° for 0.5-2 months and II at 5° for 3-4 months. When the first seedlings appear, transfer to germination at 20° or sow.
To increase the percentage of germination, they should be placed in water for a few days to allow them to soak in moisture. They should then be planted in a container with loose soil. If planted correctly, the seedlings will emerge in a couple of weeks. When they are strong enough, they can be transplanted to a permanent location.

Alder propagation by seed is the most common method. In autumn, seeds can be placed immediately in seed boxes filled with a nutrient-rich soil mixture (e.g. peat-sand soil), but it is better to stratify them. You will need to keep the seed in cold conditions (at 0-5 degrees) for 6 months. Sow alder seeds into the substrate to a depth of no more than 2.5-3 cm.
If sown in the spring, you will have to wait for sprouts to appear, almost a year from the time the seeds are placed in the ground. At first, only a small sprout will be visible, which will build up the root system. Each year, the alder seedlings will begin to extend 0.5-1 m in height. If seedlings are sown in seed boxes, it is recommended that they be picked into separate containers after the third leaf has emerged, and that they can be planted out in the open air after one year.
The seeds need to be stratified at 1 - 5° for 6 months.

The seeds are sown in early spring. Soak the seeds in warm water one day before sowing.
A substrate of sand and peat is poured into a container, then the seeds are pressed slightly into the soil and moistened with a sprayer.
The container should then be wrapped in a polythene bag or film to create mini-hothouse conditions, where high temperature and humidity will be maintained (heat and humidity are the main criteria for the normal growth of adult specimens of Sitnik). The container should be kept in semi-shaded conditions.
The container should be ventilated regularly and the substrate should always be slightly moist. As soon as the seedlings have their first leaves, remove the polythene and gradually accustom the plants to the air. As the seedlings mature, once they have grown to three true leaves, they can be potted into separate pots and it is advisable to plant several in one container to achieve a beautiful and lush bush in the future. One year later, the plants can be replanted again in larger pots. Only in the third year of development can the young plants be transplanted to a permanent location in the open ground.

Store the seeds in a cool, dry room in a tightly closed bag or glass dish. The sowing depth is 0.5 cm. Seeds should be sown under snow; spring sowing requires cold stratification for 3-4 months at 0-3°C. It grows very quickly, with an annual growth rate of up to half a metre.

Before planting, the fruit should either be soaked for 24 hours in cold water, or scarified with gibberellic acid for 30-60 minutes after thinning the membrane. Before planting, the fruit should either be soaked for 24 hours in cold water, or scarified with gibberellic acid for 30-60 minutes. The seeds should then be stratified for 1-2 months at 3-5°C. Scarification is more important than cold stratification to increase seed germination. Prepare loose soil consisting of one part sand and two parts humus. It is important that the soil is not too dry. If the soil is dry, spray it well with a sprayer, stirring gradually. Sow to a depth of 1 cm. Germinate at a minimum temperature of 17 °C and keep the soil moist at all times.

Seeds need to be stratified at 5° for 4-5 months.
Loach is generally undemanding to the soil conditions and can grow even on salt marshes, as long as the soils are light and well-drained; sandy loam and loamy soils are optimum. Excessive moisture and high groundwater levels are not acceptable.
Salix is a photophilous plant and should therefore be planted in an open, well-lit and, in regions to the north of its natural range, also well protected from the wind. To obtain large harvests, it is advisable to plant three or four specimens, although a single plant may also bear fruit.
It has been found that without prior stratification, loch seeds will not germinate. Therefore, when propagating by seeds, after harvesting the fruit, wash the seeds from the pulp two days later and store them in a paper bag in a cool room until they are stratified. In October, they are mixed with wet river sand, peat, moss or sawdust (also moist) and kept at 0.5 to 1.5°C for five months (e.g. from October to March), buried 20 to 30 centimetres deep in the soil before sowing, so that they can also be covered with snow.
One month before sowing, the seeds are dug out, spread out together with the substrate in a thin layer onto polyethylene foil and constantly moistened. When the seeds have sprouted, they are sown, but it is better to sow them first in a greenhouse or in boxes. In the first year, the seedlings will grow to 30-50 centimetres. They are transplanted to a permanent place after they have formed 3-4 shoots and the length of the root system reaches 20-22 centimetres. By the autumn of the second year, the seedlings can be transplanted to a permanent location. Under natural stratification conditions, with winter sowing, germination depends on changing weather conditions that are not always favourable for the plant. As a result, it can be very low.

Under the winter:
Sow them in the open ground in the winter (October-November) to a depth of 1-2 cm at a distance of 10-15 cm from each other. Cover the seedlings with sawdust, dry leaves or peat.
In spring:
If seeds are sown in spring, do so immediately after the soil thaws. There is no need to freeze the seeds. Prepared seeds can be used for cultivation. The seeds should be placed in cold water for 24 hours before planting. The seeds should then be drained and wrapped in cold gauze for 4-5 days. As soon as the petals begin to appear, the laconos seeds can be planted in the containers and watered periodically. Dig small furrows 1 to 2 cm deep in the prepared soil and plant the seeds in them, covering them with soil. The distance between the seeds should be at least one metre. Immediately afterwards, water the seeds with cool water.
It is best to plant the laconos in loose soil. This will allow the seeds and shrubs to take root faster in the new location. It is best to choose a wind-protected, sunny location for planting. In a darkened place, the laconos will also bloom, but much more slowly.

An unpretentious, water-loving shrub that grows quickly in damp soils. Grown from seed in the same way as spireas: surface seeding, spraying, film on top without contact with the surface. Seeded densely, as seedlings emerge I will pick them into individual cups or into a common container more sparsely.

The seeds are sown in the autumn. For spring sowing, cold stratification at +1+10°C (optimum +5°C) for 2-3 months is necessary; this can be replaced by treatment with sulphuric acid. In the middle of Russia, preserving seedlings in the open ground is problematic.

To speed up the emergence of shoots, the seeds will need to be prepared before sowing. Before sowing, they are immersed in boiling water for a few seconds. Once the seeds have been removed from the boiling water, they are immersed in very cold water. With this procedure, damage is created on the surface of the dense outer shell, and the liquid can easily reach the germ. Instead, the seed can be scarified by filing the skin of the bean. The seeds are sown in containers filled with substrate consisting of sand and peat and can also be sown in a greenhouse. The seeds should be sown to a depth of 0.5-1 cm during the first days of May. Make sure the temperature of the substrate in the container is about 20-23 degrees to increase the chances of successful seedling emergence. The first seedlings usually germinate about half a month after sowing. Plant the seedlings without covering, remembering to moisten the substrate in good time. In summer, the grown seedlings are taken out to the garden plot. It will remain there until the next spring period. The seedlings can then be transplanted to a permanent location.

Although it is tolerant of climatic changes, it does best in bright and wind-protected areas. Special attention should also be paid to the soil. It is best planted in nutritious soil.
Plant the seeds in late summer. At this time, the seeds will germinate quickly and will develop quickly. Autumn and spring planting will not produce the desired result. Sown ash seeds must necessarily be covered for the winter. A special agrofoil is used for this purpose. Sow ash seeds only in previously prepared furrows. They should be placed at a depth of about 5 cm. Approximate consumption of planting material is 8 g per 1 m2. Fertilizing the soil is not necessary. Carefully fill the furrows with soil and lightly compact them. Water generously on top.
If everything is done correctly, the first sprouts will appear in the middle of May. Taking care of the seedlings is easy enough. To make them grow quickly and be beautiful, they need to be watered systematically. Water should only be at room temperature and not boiled. The liquid must be free from impurities. Loosening the soil is also very important. This is an important step in the care of young ash trees. Loosen the soil 4 to 6 times throughout the summer season.

Seeds disinfected with a 5 per cent copper sulphate solution are mixed with 1:3 wet river sand and stored in sacks (gauze), indoors at a temperature of at least +15° C˚ with constant moistening and stirring. This process takes six months.
It is advisable to scarify the seeds before sowing. At home, the seeds can be scarified by subjecting them to sharply varying temperatures, first by immersing them in ice-cold water for a few minutes and then, for the same time, in steep boiling water. The procedure is repeated three to five times. The effect of alternating temperatures on the seed coat is considerably inferior to concentrated acids, but nevertheless also reduces the stratification period and promotes faster germination of the seeds. Just before sowing, it is useful to soak the seeds for a day in a solution of epin or zircon (1 ampoule per 2 litres of water).
Also before sowing you can soak the seeds in a solution of 5 grams of ammonium molybdenum acid, 4 grams of zinc sulphate, 10 ml of carbolic acid (5% solution), 1 ml of formalin (10% solution), a glass of water.
A mixture of equal parts turf and leaf soil with the addition of neutralised peat and sand, or ready-made soil with a neutral or - preferably - slightly alkaline reaction is used for sowing. The main thing is that the acidity of the soil should be no lower than 7, as young cotoneaster plants react extremely negatively to even slight acidity. Prolonged cultivation even on slightly acidic substrates will initially have a depressing effect on seedlings, inhibiting their growth and development, and then leading to death. The reason for this is that plants are naturally confined to calcareous soils and are unable to absorb nutrients in acidic media. The germination period of cotoneaster seeds is very extended in time; when the first sprouts appear, sow them in the brightest place possible; if they appear in late winter or early spring, they should be given extra light.

Lime seeds should always be stratified before sowing and this should be done for 3-4 months in moist sand, wrapped in gauze and placed in the refrigerator. You can plant in the spring either directly in the ground (early May) or at home in boxes at any time, starting in February. The method of sowing at home is even preferable - seedlings are better, and as soon as the seedlings stretch to 10-15 cm can be transplanted into the ground - or into the bed for further growing in 1-2 years, or in a permanent place.
The soil for sowing lime trees should be loose and ventilated and a little peat or sawdust can be added. Gardeners also often add sand to the soil to loosen it. The seed is placed at a depth of 1-1.5 cm. At home you can safely sow up to 100 seeds into a box, with an average germination rate of 50-60%. After sowing, cover the box with cling film and place it in a warm place. Seeds germinate in 2-3 weeks - then the foil is removed, and the box is placed in a bright place - usually on a window sill on the sunny side.
Once the seedlings have grown strong enough and have gained strength, they no longer need to be covered. During germination, the ambient temperature should not be below twenty degrees. The seedlings should be exposed to sufficient sunlight in order to speed up photosynthesis.
Care measures for linden sprouts include obligatory loosening of the soil layer and timely watering. Three weeks after sprouting, it is essential to thin out the sprouts in order to get rid of any weak shoots. Then all the resulting plants should be planted in their own pots. This strengthens and grows them further. This measure requires soil similar in composition to that in which the seeds germinated.
When replanting the seedlings, the root system should be handled carefully as it is still quite weak and can be damaged.
When true warmth arrives in May, the seedlings are planted in an open area. This is usually in the garden. The linden tree also grows on infertile soils and can therefore be planted almost anywhere. Seedlings should preferably be planted in an area with a good fertile layer of soil and light. It is worth avoiding direct exposure to the midday sun on the linden leaves, as they may show signs of burning.
The water-loving linden is very demanding, especially at the seedling stage. It should therefore be periodically watered and loosened to allow oxygen to reach the roots. The linden tree should not be surrounded by weeds as they will inhibit its growth.

Seeds need to be stratified in two stages: I. at 20 - 30°C
for 2 months, II at 5° for 2 months. The best time for sowing is in late autumn or early spring. Before sowing, fertilize the area and dig it well. Leave the seeds 2-3 months before sowing in a special substratum for stratification at +5°C. This is a mixture of sand, moss, sawdust and peat. The seed to substrate ratio is 1:4. Sow freshly harvested seeds in the autumn and do not need to be stratified, this will pass naturally. The sowing depth should not exceed 5 cm. Water the seeds regularly and weed them. If planted correctly, white sod will grow to its maximum size in 5-8 years. When the seedlings have grown to 50-70 cm in height, they can be transplanted to a permanent location.

Seeds must be stratified for 3-6 months before planting. after keeping them in the refrigerator at +2-+5 C in a container with wet sand /perlite/ moss. Before planting, the seed shell can be slightly sawn and soaked in hot water for a day.

Treatment with kinetin stimulates the growth of the embryo and seeds without pericarp.

Sowing is carried out superficially, only slightly covering the seeds with soil and moistening. Part of the seedlings appear in the second spring from sowing.

Maple develops best in a mixture that includes 3 parts of humus, 2 parts of turf and part of sand. The acidity of the soil can vary from 6 to 7.5. If the land on the site is not nutritious enough, nitrogen fertilizer is applied to the hole when planting.

Seeds need to be stratified at 5° for 3-4 months.
The best time for sowing is in the autumn, but if planted in the spring, the seeds need to be pre-stratified. To speed up germination, place the seeds in a refrigerator for 3-4 months, or put them in a bag and cover with snow.
Autumn sowing is done in open soil up to 3.5 cm deep. The seedling is covered with polyethylene film. With the onset of spring, the seeds are moved into a container with a light soil mixture to an identical depth. When three pairs of leaves have emerged, the young plants need to be nested. Before planting, they should be hardened in the fresh air every day and the procedure should be gradually extended. Vesicle seed can be propagated into seedbeds during spring sowing. The seeds should be placed on the ground and mulched with peat or humus.
If the weather conditions are dry, it will be necessary to cover the seeds with plastic sheeting or other material in order to create a special microclimate. When the vesicle shoots emerge, these should be thinned out to a maximum of two dozen young plants per metre. For planting in autumn or spring, you will need acidified or neutral soil and a location with good natural light or semi-shade. The size of the planting hole should be considerably larger than the size of the seedling's root ball. Place compost, decomposted leaves and peat at the bottom.
Place the young vesicle in the centre of the hole and cover its roots with a layer of soil. The root neck should be bury to a length of 5 to 6 cm.
When planting single plants, maintain a distance of at least 2 metres between them.
Seedlings require follow-up care consisting of shaping and pruning the shrub, regular watering (a rooted plant needs about 40 litres twice a week), fertilisation with the onset of the season and after flowering.

Propagating Eleutherococcus from seed is not difficult.
Pre-planting preparation is compulsory and involves the following steps:
With the onset of September, any sack or container is taken and filled with damp sand;
The planting material is placed in the damp sand and kept there for five months at a temperature of +18 to +20 degrees;
During this time, the sand should be moist and the room in which it is placed should be well ventilated;
After five months, the sack or container with the seeds is placed in the refrigerator, where they will freeze at a temperature of +4 degree for the next three months.
It is worth taking the matter of planting seeds seriously and observing certain rules, which are as follows
-Prepared seeds for planting should be planted directly to the selected and prepared plot;
-The place for planting should be in the light shade;
-The soil should be nutritious;
-The area to be planted should be dug out and free of weeds and rubbish;
-Make small furrows in the soil with a depth of not more than one centimetre and place the seeds in these furrows;
-The soil is watered immediately, and then the procedure is repeated over time to ensure that the soil is constantly moist;
Not all seeds will germinate in the first year. Many may sprout after two years;
Young shoots grow and develop at the planting site for the first three years. After that, the shrubs can be transplanted to a new prepared area;
The first flowers can be produced after four years with this method of planting.

An adult oriental sycamore can withstand short-term frosts as low as -27°C without damage. In a sheltered location, in a forest plantation, it can withstand more than -30°C. The northern border of sycamore cultivation runs along the border Riga - Minsk - Kharkiv. The eastern plane tree prefers neutral, unconsolidated soils, full sunshine, long summers and a warm autumn. It does not thrive in clay soils with high freezing temperatures. Froze to the ground, producing abundant stump growth. The sycamore tree looks excellent in solitary and alley planting. When planting sycamore trees in the area it should be remembered that they give a large shade and a spreading crown, which by the age of 50 years can reach 15 m. It is therefore better to plant the sycamore tree in a warm, bright far corner of the plot, where you plan to create a summer sitting area. In hot regions, sycamore trees are often planted near water sources so that their shade protects them from drying out.
Planting and care:
Many myths exist with the difficulty of growing sycamore from seed. To get seedlings, you have to harvest the sycamore fruit from October to March and peel it. The result will be a lot of small seeds with fluff and an axial "spine". The seeds are sown without stratification in March, but can be sown throughout the spring. Store in a dry, cold place until sown. The potting soil is made from black earth (slightly worse than peat) and sand in a 1:1 or 2:1 ratio. The seeds can first be soaked for half a day in cold water or kept in a damp cloth for 24 hours. The seeds should be sown superficially and can be lightly covered with soil. At home under a film the roots will germinate in 5-7 days and shoots will appear in 2-3 weeks. Make sure that the soil is constantly moist. In the first year, the seedlings will only grow 10-15 cm. The first overwintering of the seedlings is best done at +2+7°C, in the cellar.

Gleditsia is undemanding, tolerates drought easily, prefers direct sunlight and loose soils (it grows even on poor sands), as the root system is deep and needs good aeration. On cold damp clay soils it will suffer. In this case it is worth planting gleditsia on uplands with a southern slope. This species can even grow on saline soils. Gleditsia is wind-tolerant and in southern Russia and Ukraine it is used as a drought-tolerant windbreak. According to precise data, the Gleditsia ordinaryis tolerates well the winters of Minsk, Gomel, Orel, Samara (if there is no wind, it can withstand frosts of -35oC without damage). It is possible to grow gleditsia from seeds; in this case, the seeds do not need to be stratified and can be easily stored in a dry state for several years and will survive sub-zero temperatures. In spring, soak the seeds in very warm water for a few hours (change the water periodically to warm). The seed should then increase in size by a factor of 2-3. If this does not happen after 3-4 hours soaking, the seeds will absorb the necessary water from the soil after sowing (the germination of gleditsia seeds is usually very high - over 90%). The seeds are sown in a standard mixture of peat (or black earth) and sand in a 1:2 or 1:3 ratio.
The seeds have a very hard seed coat. For faster germination, it needs to be damaged by sanding with a file, just enough to damage the integrity of a small section of the seed coat. If you are not in a hurry, you don't need to do this and you can soak the seeds in warm water for a day instead. Seed in pots or trays with all-purpose soil to a depth of about 1 cm. Cover the seed pot with plastic wrap and air it out daily to prevent mould. Store the newly planted seeds in a well-lit area and keep the soil moist. As soon as the first shoots appear, remove the foil. The seeds usually germinate in less than 4-6 weeks at 20-25°C.

The tree is drought-tolerant and heat-loving. It suffers in regions with cold, damp summers. In windless weather, it can survive down to -25°C. Frost bites often form in the wind, causing branches to dry out and fungal infestations. So plant the koelreuteria in the sunniest place, where it will be protected on 2 or 3 sides from winter winds. Native to East Asia, the panicle is grown as a park plant not only in the southern regions, but also in the southern Midlands (in the northern Midlands it freezes to the snow level). And in eastern North America this tree is considered an invasive species. The species grows well on loose, breathable soils and does not tolerate flooding. On uplands on the southern side of a slope it will also grow successfully on loamy soils. On fertile soils, it will grow more than half a metre annually. Planting and care: stratification of seed varies greatly and can take from 2 weeks to 3 months. From personal experience, some seeds will germinate after 1 month of stratification if sown in mid-May, after the spring frost. Sprouts emerge at temperatures above +15°C, usually in 1-3 weeks (depending on the weather), but can take hold throughout the summer and the following year. Even in freestanding self-pollinated trees, seed germination is over 50%. Sod the seeds into the soil to a depth of 1-2 cm. For the soil mixture, take 1 part peat or chernozem and 2-3 parts sand. Seedlings are very frost-sensitive and for the next 2 winters it will be worth covering them with a shelter of clinging boards or fleece and filling the inside with straw. When growing in a pot for the first two years, it is best to sow in a 5-litre container at once, as the seedlings will develop rapidly. As the plant is distinctly seasonal, potted seedlings should always be kept in a cool place (balcony, cellar) for the winter with moderate watering (once every 2-3 weeks).

Seeds need to be stratified at 5° for 1-3 months.
Germination improves in light. Can be planted in spring or under the winter.
The plant is adapted to shaded areas. In the natural environment it grows in coniferous forests where it occupies the middle layer. Because of this it rarely flowers and propagates vegetatively by spreading shoots on the ground. But the long-lived forest dwarf will also flower and grow vigorously in sunny locations. Pruning is not an issue for the plant, it can take any shape. The best use of honeysuckle in the garden is as a hedge. It will grow densely, protecting the area from dust, wind and unwanted guests. When planting, maintain a distance of at least 1.5-2 m between individual plants. Honeysuckle neighbours should tolerate semi-shade or shade, require little maintenance and be covered for the winter (but young plants should better be covered).

Two-stage stratification is recommended: I. at room temperature for 5 months, II. at 5° for 6 months. In addition, stratification at 8°C for 12 months or under the snow is recommended.
The seeds are planted on the surface in flower pots or in balcony boxes. The seeds will be lightly sanded and pressed into the soil. The pots should be covered with glass or film to create a kind of greenhouse. Water the seedbeds regularly and carefully, so that a strong stream of water will not wash out the seedlings.
If the procedure is done in autumn, the seeds will have germinated by the planting season of the following year and can be planted in the open ground. If the seed is introduced into the soil in spring, it is moved into the greenhouse in March-April. The confident green shoots are transferred into the soil as early as June.

Stratification is not necessary. The seeds should be scalded with boiling water before sowing, then dipped in cold water several times. You can also pour boiling water over the seeds and leave them to cool down. Repeat with undiluted seeds. Sow to a depth of 0.5-1 cm. It feels best in poor soils, including sandy and calcareous ones. Fertile soils inhibit the plant's development. The main condition for ornamental effect of yeast is good light; it tolerates shading, but flowers much less effectively. It can withstand being inundated by melt water, but will die if the soil is constantly over-watered.

Sowing in the spring will require the seeds to be pre-stratified for at least 3 months. To do this, cover the seeds with damp sand and place them in the refrigerator.
If the seeds have not undergone natural stratification, soak them in hot (+500°C) water for 3-4 days before sowing. The water should be changed 2-3 times a day.
The swollen seeds are sown into moist, nutritious soil to a depth of 2-3 cm. The addition of phosphate fertiliser and potassium permanganate to the soil will significantly accelerate the growth of the seedlings. Sprouted, the following year, the seedlings quickly gain in growth, actively developing the root system. Sprouts of Amur velvet, grown from seed, adapt perfectly to the local climate, becoming more resistant and hardy. For the successful growth and development of seedlings, it is important to ensure regular watering, loosening and mulching of the soil on the plot. The growing tree is negatively affected by compaction and lack of aeration in the soil.

For stratification, take a glass of sand - moisten it a little - mix it with acorns and put it in a polythene bag, making a couple of holes in the bottom with an awl for air access. Some put in a damp cloth, someone in the moss-sphagnum, someone in the ground, many options - fit of course and perlite, but one important thing - it must be slightly moist and cold, so put it all on the bottom shelf of the refrigerator for 1-3 months. After a month do not look whether the acorn roots went out and as soon as half of them appear, put them in a box with soil, or cups. So if you buy seeds in say November you will be sowing them at home in January - this cannot be avoided - you will not save them until spring and thus the acorns will grow on your windowsill. If it's north-side you need extra light, if it's south-side it's enough of winter natural light.
Seed to a depth of no more than 2s-more than it makes no sense - the roots will go down and they need up to 10 cm, so fill the pots, cups or boxes to the edges at once. You can take any kind of earth - either store-bought or own - and do not pour it over - oak roots do not like to over-wet. By May you will have 20-25 cm tall oaks with good roots, which are usually planted in seedbeds for one year's cultivation. You can plant straight away to a permanent location - the main thing is to remember where to remove tall grass and not to mow it yourself. By the end of the second year, oak will be 50-60 cm and now you can transplant to a permanent place - oak likes sunny, without stagnant water, the earth is particularly undemanding, easily tolerates loam.

The seeds do not need to be stratified (kept in cold conditions for some time), but they are subjected to scarification because of their hard shell. In this process, the woody coating of the seed is destroyed. This is done very carefully so as not to damage the surface of the inner part. A sharpened knife or sandpaper is used for scarification. Often, instead of soaking the seeds for about 24 hours in warm water, which is periodically changed so that it does not cool until the seeds are well swollen and begin to germinate, or use sulfuric acid, in which the soaking time is reduced to 1.5-2 hours (if concentrated, only 10 minutes is enough).
Once the seeds have been soaked, they are washed well under running water, dried slightly and then planted in pots filled with peat-sandy soil.
The embedment depth will be 3 cm. Alternatively, when the soil in the garden warms up well in April or May, you can sow bunting seeds in the open soil.
However, don't expect results too quickly since it will take a long time before any shoots will be visible.
Only move young seedlings from their pots into the open ground during the dormancy period, which should not be coinciding with flowering or fruiting.
The soil should be fertilised with organic products.
There is evidence of seed sowing in the arboretum of the Botanical Garden of the Moldavian Academy of Sciences, when the seeds were stratified. For two months, the seeds were kept at the heat of 0-5 degrees Celsius, after which they were simultaneously germinating at a rate of nearly 100 %.
To avoid rotting during the stratification process, the seeds are thoroughly mixed with coarse dry sand and care is taken not to allow them to touch each other.
It is important to keep the height of the sand layer mixed with the seeds to a maximum of 30 cm.
The seeds are also sown late - late April or May, depending on the condition of the soil, it should be well warmed.

Place the seeds between two cotton pads (gauze or paper towels can be used) and place them on a saucer, cover with room temperature water and a plastic bag. Put the saucer in a warm place for 5-7 days so that the seeds can soak up the moisture and germinate more quickly. After that, proceed with sowing in the soil. Spread the seeds on the surface of loose, fertile soil and cover with a small layer of soil and water. It is also possible to spread the seeds without covering them with soil, but in such a case, the seeds should be sprinkled daily to keep them moist. The pot should have drainage holes and drainage. Place the pot in a well-lit area. The optimum temperature for germination is 24-28°C. Cover the pot with clear plastic and air it out for 15 minutes each day. Keep the soil moist. Once the seedlings have germinated, remove the polythene from the pot. Avoid exposing the young plants to direct sunlight throughout the day. Sprouts emerge in 1-2 weeks and look like radish. When 2-3 true leaves have emerged, the catalpa seedlings will be pickled. When the plant has grown, transplant it to an open soil or a larger pot.

The plant needs an intense source of light but will also thrive in the penumbra. If there is insufficient light, the foliage will become more dull and stunted and fewer inflorescences will be produced. Planting the plant in sandy loam soil promotes active growth, but it can be planted in any, even the heaviest soil. It is insensitive to both soil nutrition and acidity.
Caragana does not tolerate plenty of moisture or boggy areas. Extremely winter-hardy, but very young shoots may freeze slightly in severe frosts, in the absence of snow. These shrubs are undemanding with regard to care. Only young plants need fertiliser in the early years. Fertiliser should be applied in spring and only organic nutrients should be used. Frequent watering is not necessary, even during prolonged dry periods.
Planting:
The seeds should be sown into the substrate immediately after harvesting or already in the spring months. Soak them for 24 hours before planting. If the seeds are pre-stratified for 10-40 days at 1-5 degrees (in the lower shelf of a fridge, for example), they will already start to germinate at a heat rate of 10 degrees. The seeds are sown to a depth of 4-5 cm. The planted material should then be mulched with peat or sawdust. Sprouts will already be visible after a month. These seedlings will grow very slowly in the first years, but then they will grow faster. Once the first five years have passed, you can expect them to flower. However, in this case, the parental qualities of the Karaganah may be lost.
If the seeds are mature, they will start to germinate when the temperature is at least 25 degrees. Otherwise, they will germinate much more slowly and their germination will be reduced. If planted in late autumn, success will only be assured if the substrate is light.

Ginkgo seeds can be sown indoors all year round. The seeds should be stratified before sowing. You will need a ziploc bag for this. Write the date on it, put sand or perlite in it and pour in some cold boiled water. The seeds can also be wrapped in a damp cotton cloth and placed in the ziploc bag. Put the bag with the seeds in the refrigerator for 1-3 months and then you can move on to planting. Check the seeds once a week for mould. If mould appears, rinse the seeds, take a clean ziploc bag and repeat the procedure. Once the stratification period is over, move on to planting. Plant the seeds in pots filled with moist, well-drained soil (a mixture of multi-purpose soil, peat and sand in a 2:2:1 ratio) . Press the seeds into the soil and lightly bury them on top. The seeds will then be moved to a warm place and watered and aired in good time. The ideal temperature at this time will be +20 - +25 °C. Germination normally takes 4-5 weeks, but more time may be required. Keep the soil moist, but not wet. Do not allow the seedlings to be exposed to direct sunlight.

The birch tree grows quite easily from seed at home, but care must be taken to ensure that the seedlings are not killed by fungus or other disease. The seeds should therefore be treated with manganese or water before they are placed in the soil. Manganese or hydrogen peroxide is used for this purpose. The seeds are soaked in a one per cent solution for about 20 minutes. They are then washed and dried. There are special industrial preparations that help protect the seedlings from fungi and viruses, strengthen the immunity of future plants and give the seedlings all the necessary nutrients.
Before planting, the seeds should always be treated with a cold treatment for spring planting. You can keep them for 3-4 weeks in the refrigerator and then dry them at room temperature. It is advisable to sow them into the frozen soil in early winter or early spring. Place the seeds directly on the surface without burying them, just cover them with a board. They can be pressed on top with small branches and watered. As soon as the first shoots appear, be sure to remove the cover. Sprouting of birch seeds also occurs independently, so do not be surprised if a young sprout suddenly appears on your plot in early summer. If it gets in the way, it can be carefully replanted in autumn in a more suitable location.

Stratification is not necessary. Before sowing the seeds
are scalded with boiling water, then immersed in cold water and repeatedly. You can also pour boiling water over the seeds and leave them to cool down. Repeat with undiluted seeds. Sow to a depth of 0.5-1 cm.
It is quite easy to grow from seeds, for this purpose they are planted in boxes with good, loose and nutritious soil, in the spring time of the year. Soak the seeds for at least 10 hours in room temperature water and then place them in fairly shallow, moist soil. So that the seeds will germinate, it is necessary to maintain a temperature of about 20 degrees and a constant moisture content. Once the first shoots have sprouted and the sturdy leaves have appeared, the amorphus is transplanted to its individual container. Further cultivation of Amorpha shrubbery should be done in a pot and should not be planted outdoors for another year. In May it can be taken out into the garden in pots, but in anticipation of cold weather it should be moved indoors. The room itself should be cool, dark and dry, in the house or flat the shrub can be placed in a less lit part of the room, away from heat sources. Amorpha can be planted outdoors after a year as soon as the soil has warmed up and should be planted in a permanent location.

Albizia seeds should be sown from late winter to mid-summer. Before planting, the seeds will need to be stratified and a 'hot' method is required - if the seed is large, it should be filed on one side with a file or file before planting and the seeds should then be soaked for 5-6 hours in water at around 60 degrees to allow them to swell. The seeds will then need to be sown to a depth of 3 mm and the container with the seeds placed in a mini-greenhouse with bottom heating. The germination temperature from the seeds should vary between 20-25 degrees.
Some growers recommend the usual 'cold' stratification before planting.
When the seedlings have grown sufficiently and have a couple of true leaves, they can be picked into separate pots with a diameter of 7.5 cm. During the winter, keep the seedlings at a temperature of 5 degrees. As soon as the threat of spring frost has passed, the albicia plants should be planted in the open soil at a distance of 2 m from each other. The growing area should be sunny and protected from the wind. The soil should be light, nutritious and well-drained.

The seeds need a long period of time to stratify. If they are sown in autumn, they can be stratified under natural conditions, but if they are to be sown in spring, they will need to be kept in the refrigerator for about two months. The place for planting is prepared in advance - you plough a ridge and add some humus. The seeds are sown to a depth of 3 cm. Some may take 2-3 years to germinate after sowing.

Propagating by seed requires more attention and patience. Under natural conditions, most seeds will not germinate until the second spring. Gardeners stratify seeds to speed up the germination process. Duration of stratification: first stage - 3-4 months at a temperature of +10 to +12 C; second stage - 4-5 months, the temperature decreases to 0 ... +3C. The seeds should swell well in these conditions. Carefully peel the seeds from the cracked dense skin, soak for 15 minutes in a weak solution of manganese, rinse.
Prepare crates or cups with fertile garden soil and a little sand (readymade seedling soil can be used).
The seeds should be sown to a depth of 2 cm.
Cover the seeds with cling film or glass.
Expect to germinate in 15-20 days, then remove the cover.
A slight reduction in temperature to 18°C will be beneficial for the plants to prevent them from being pulled out. Also provide good, diffuse lighting.
When the seedlings have grown, harden them two weeks before planting them in the ground. You can plant them in a training bed, and then transplant them to a permanent location when they reach a height of 25-30 cm. Be sure to cover them for the winter so that they do not freeze to death. The ideal soil composition is turf, sand, mulch and leaf soil (1:1:2:4). During cool weather (autumn and spring), a layer of peat mulch is required. In winter, be sure to cover the young shoots with spruce branches.

Hall is recommended. stratiph. within 5-6 months or two-stage stratif.: I - in heat for 3 months, II - in the cold for 5-6 months.
It can be sown in winter under snow, it can be sown in spring after artificial stratification. Because of the hard shell, scarification is required: immerse the seeds in sulfuric acid for twenty minutes. Sowing seeds in open soil is carried out in spring or autumn, while they need to be deepened by only 20 mm. Crops for the winter do not need to be covered. The first seedlings will appear 12 months after sowing.

Frost resistance up to -20-25 (maximum with short-term frosts).
Bamboo seeds are soaked for 12 hours in clean water before sowing. While they swell, prepare a nutrient mixture of 8 parts topsoil, 1 part fine wood shavings, and 1 part wood ash. Sift the mixture through a sieve, moisten and fill the cells in the cassette with it without compacting. Make a small hole 4-5 mm deep in each cell and place one bamboo seed in them (the seeds are removed from the water and blotted with a cloth 20 minutes before sowing) and plant the crops. The crops are covered with film, providing additional lighting for 12-16 hours and a constant temperature of 25-28C. The soil is kept moist, which will require spraying it twice a day. Bamboo seeds germinate very slowly, and seedlings can be expected only after 2-3.5 weeks. When the seedlings are 3-4 months old and they begin to form shoots, they are planted in separate containers filled with high-moor peat. From now on, bamboo is watered once a day, and it is better to do it in the evening. Seedlings are transplanted into open ground when they reach a height of 40-50 cm. However, it is desirable that young plants survive their first winter indoors, since in open ground they can freeze or die from lack of moisture. You can transfer them to a greenhouse or other unheated, but protected from frost and drafts room for the winter, and when the soil warms up, you can plant them in the garden.

For grandiflora, a mixture of peat, sand and compost or sapropel (river, lake silt) is prepared in a ratio of 2:2:3. When grown from seeds, after harvesting (from October to January), they must immediately be freed from the red sarcotest and laid for 3-6 months for stratification. To do this, pour a mixture of raw sand and moss into a jar halfway, mix with seeds, close the lid and refrigerate at a temperature of +1 + 5 ° C.
Every week, check the seeds for mold and mix. In February, the seeds should germinate even in the refrigerator. If you miss the moment, then the young root rots. In mid-February, the seeds are sown in the soil mixture to a depth of 1 cm. Within a month, all seeds will sprout. The soil should be watered as the top layer dries.

Stratification is not required. Before sowing seeds
scalded with boiling water, then lowered into cold water and so on several times. You can pour boiling water and leave to cool. Repeat with unswollen seeds. Sowing to a depth of 0.5-1 cm.
Since the seed coat is very hard for faster germination, they can be subjected to scarification, i.e. rub the shell with a nail file or sandpaper. Seeds need to be soaked for a day in hot water. Then fill the pot with regular moistened soil, leaving 12 mm on top. Place the seeds in the soil, sprinkle on top with an additional layer 5-10 mm high and compact gently. Place the pot in a warm, well-lit area indoors or outdoors and heat the pot with a seedling mat if necessary. Keep the soil moist, but don't let it get too wet because the seeds will rot. Under the right conditions, sprouts will appear in 2-3 weeks.

Seeds need stratif. at 5° for 3-4 months.
Seeds germinate well both in autumn and spring sowings in open ground. Seeds germinate within 2 months. Seedlings are massive. The seeding depth is 1-2 cm. Vitex seeds can also be grown through seedlings. This is usually done in February. Under room conditions, seeds are sown in prepared soil to a depth of about 1 cm at a distance of 2 cm, in a month the first shoots will begin to appear. In June, it can be planted in open ground at a distance of 10 cm.

Seeds need stratif. at 5° for 2-6 months
Jasmine seeds are sown 5 to 6 weeks before the expected onset of the last frost. To keep jasmine at home, sowing is carried out throughout the year.
Seeds are sown in the ground in the following sequence:
12 hours before planting, the seeds are soaked in warm water or a weak solution of potassium permanganate. This will help make the peel softer and shorten the germination time. Shallow trays or containers are filled with a soil mixture consisting of soddy soil, peat, compost, sand and perlite.
Spread the seeds into holes to a depth of 1 - 2 cm and sprinkle with earth on top.
The containers are covered with a film or a piece of glass for the greenhouse effect and placed in a warm, bright room. Watering is carried out as the topsoil dries up. The first shoots appear after 3-4 weeks. When the length of the seedlings reaches 5 - 7 cm, they can be planted in separate pots or cups.

Stratification is not required. Before sowing seeds
scalded with boiling water, then lowered into cold water and so on several times. You can pour boiling water and leave to cool. Repeat with unswollen seeds. Sowing to a depth of 0.5-1 cm.
Wisteria seeds are planted in late November or early December. Wisteria seeds are sown on the surface of a soil mixture consisting of leafy soil (four parts), soddy soil and sand (one part each), sprinkled with a thin layer of sand on top, sprayed with water from a spray bottle and, having covered the container with glass to create a greenhouse effect, put in a dark warm (22-25 ºС) place, keeping the soil slightly moist all the time. Wisteria sprouts from seeds in 3-4 weeks, and after another week and a half, it will be possible to transfer seedlings to the light by organizing protection from direct sunlight. When the seedlings form two leaves, they are dived into separate containers along with a clod of earth on the roots and watered with a weak solution of potassium permanganate.

Seeds of all types of spirea do not require stratification.
Prepare the soil for sowing: mix non-acidic peat, vermiculite (4:1). Sow the seeds in a bowl or box. A sheet of light-colored smooth paper will help to distribute them more evenly over the surface of the soil (on such paper, the seeds are clearly visible and easily slide off it).
When sowing in spring, moisten the soil from a sprayer and cover with a film, in the fall you can not do this.
Drop a container with crops in the garden. When planting in the spring, you can simply plant it in the shade so that the soil does not overheat and dry out - but not near the north side of the fence and building, where an icy wind blows in the spring. As soon as the first shoots appear on the surface of the soil, the film must be removed.
When the spirea seedlings reach about 2 cm in height, their color begins to appear (if the seeds are from a variety with yellow leaves). At this time, they urgently need to dive, sorting the seedlings by color. It is not worth postponing the procedure: green seedlings overtake in growth and are already beginning to "strangle" their less agile yellow-leaved counterparts.
Select spirea seedlings from a bowl or box in bunches of several. Sort, if necessary, by color. Pinch the long roots of each seedling 1/3 and plant them in a box at a distance of 5-6 cm from each other.
Keep the seed box in a shady spot (better in the shade of deciduous trees) and remember to water regularly. Closer to autumn, plants can be transplanted to the garden, and next season - to permanent places.
Spirea is one of the few shrubs that tolerates transplanting well at any time that suits you. The main thing is that by the time of transplanting to a permanent place, the plants have reached such a size when they will be clearly visible. Then you will not accidentally pull them out with weeds and trample them.

Seeds need stratif. at 0–3° for 3–3.5 months.
To stratify the seeds, they are mixed with slightly moistened coarse-grained river sand at the rate of 3 parts of sand and 1 part of seeds and poured into boxes or cans from canned food (the bottom of the can should have holes for water drainage). Seeds are stored in a room with a temperature of 0 to +3 degrees. You can store the seeds in the lower part of the refrigerator (drying should not be allowed). The duration of the stratification is approximately 3 months. In mid-March, the seeds are sown in a box. For sowing use steamed land. When using unprepared garden soil, young plants can get sick with a "black leg" and die. Seeds of common lilac germinate in 10-15 days, Amur lilac seeds prepared for sowing germinate in 2-3 months. After 2 weeks, when the second pair of leaves begins to form, the seedlings dive into boxes at a distance of 3-4 cm. In May, they are planted in the ground in a permanent place. Autumn planting of seedlings is not recommended, since many of them freeze out during the winter. You can sow seeds in open ground before winter in a pre-prepared garden bed. Sow in frozen ground or on the first snow. Close up the seeds by 1-1.5 cm. In the spring they dive and plant them for growing. In the first year, seedlings do not feed. In the second year, the plants are inspected, the basal shoots are removed. Underdeveloped bushes are cut "on a stump", leaving three to four pairs of well-developed buds on each shoot. In the third year, pruning is repeated (for underdeveloped plants).

Seeds are stratified: mixed with wet sand in a ratio of 1:3, placed in a bag or container and stored in a refrigerator vegetable box for two months. All the time of stratification, the sand should be slightly wet. Lilac seeds are sown in the second decade of March in well-steamed or roasted garden soil to a depth of 15 mm. Crops are moistened with a spray bottle. Shoots may appear in two weeks, but sometimes seeds can take up to three months to germinate. Two weeks after the emergence of seedlings, the seedlings dive in increments of 4 cm, and with the onset of stable heat, the seedlings are planted in a permanent place. You can sow seeds before winter in slightly frozen ground - this will free you from the stratification procedure. In the spring, the emerging shoots dive and send for growing.

Legumes usually do not need seed stratification, and give good germination after storing dry seeds in a cold, dry place, and then soaking in hot water for a couple of hours (thermal scarification). But you can also prostratify the seeds for 1.5 months in damp loose sand in the refrigerator. Sowing is carried out in March - April in non-acidic loose fertile soil (chernozem or soddy soil with sand in a ratio of 1: 2). Watering, both seedlings and adult plants, is very moderate.

Needs stratification at 5-6° for 2 months in sand. Stratified seeds are recommended to be sown in early spring at 0°C. Sowing to a depth of 0.5-1 cm.
The most common way is to sow seeds in the fall, in a closed, unheated room. After germination, as soon as the seedlings grow up, they are transplanted into pots one by one. Planting at a permanent landing site after several successive transfers to larger pots is carried out after 2-3 years.

For good germination, the seeds are kept in the cold for 1-2 months. For this you will need a zip-package. Write the date on it, put sand or perlite in it and pour some cold boiled water. In the resulting moist environment, you need to place the seeds, you can also wrap the seeds in a damp cotton cloth and put them in a zip bag. Put the bag with seeds in the refrigerator for 1-2 months at a temperature of +2 to +8 ° C, and then you can proceed to planting. Check the seeds once a week for mold. If mold appears, then it is necessary to rinse the seeds, take a clean zip bag and repeat the procedure. At the end of the stratification period, proceed to planting. Prepare the pot, drainage and soil. The pot must have drainage holes. Pour expanded clay on the bottom of the pot, put soil on top of it and compact it slightly. Leave some soil to sprinkle the seeds on top with a small layer of soil. Spread the seeds over the surface of the soil and sprinkle with a small layer of soil. Place the pot on a shaded window sill and maintain the optimum temperature between +18 and +20 °C. Sprouts appear in 3-6 weeks. As seedlings emerge, gradually increase ventilation by opening the bag.

Seeds before planting are immersed in warm water for 8-10 hours. Sow to a depth of no more than 1 cm in a light, loose soil mixture. Containers with crops are covered with a film, regularly moistened with a spray bottle and kept at a temperature of 22-24 degrees above zero. Shoots begin to appear after 2 weeks, can germinate within 2 months. At the stage of 3-4 leaves, seedlings dive into individual pots filled with earth mixture, consisting of equal parts of leaf and peat soil.
In temperate latitudes, heat-loving tabebuya is grown indoors using the bonsai technique, or as a tub plant, moved to the garden for the summer. For planting, a capacious container is required, which is filled with a loose nutrient substrate, consisting of 2 parts of leafy soil, taken in 1 part of humus, soddy soil, peat and 1/3 part of sand. As a rule, a little finely chopped sphagnum moss is added to ready-made store-bought universal soil mixtures. The plant is transplanted every 2 years, young plants, intensively growing both the crown and the root system, require moving to more spacious flower pots more often. The optimum temperature conditions for a tree are 25-30 degrees Celsius, the wintering is cool, but it is better not to risk the condition of a green pet and not to allow the temperature in the room where the plant is kept to drop below 18 degrees Celsius. Feels great on the southwestern and southeastern windows, under the influence of direct sunlight, the leaves get severe burns. Room tabebuya is fertilized in spring and summer with complex mineral fertilizers for flowering plants. The solution is prepared in accordance with the instructions on the package. In hot weather, it needs good regular watering, but do not overdo it with moisture - a waterlogged earthen ball is undesirable. Usually they are guided by the state of the upper layer of the substrate - if it is dry by 1-2 cm, then it's time to water. For a tree, the humidity of the surrounding air is also important: the drier the air, the more likely the leaves will wither and be damaged by pests. Tabebuya does not tolerate spraying. From the ingress of moisture on the leaves, light brown spots form, worsening the decorative appearance of the plant. To maintain the required level of humidity in the room, it is better to place containers with water nearby or place the plant pot in a tray with wet moss or peat.

Rules for planting willow from seeds:
-seeds should be on the soil surface, since willow germination is aboveground;
- as soon as the seeds ripen, they are laid out in bowls in which the soil was previously placed: a mixture in equal proportions of compost and sand;
- the soil must be constantly wet, to maintain moisture, the bowl can be covered with glass, as soon as 2 leaves appear, the glass is removed;
- when the seedlings grow to 1 cm, they are transplanted into boxes filled with compost and sand;
- when the sprouts reach a height of 3-5 cm, they are planted in open ground;
- young plants should take root before the onset of frost, they are planted in late August or early September.

The seeds are pre-soaked for 30 minutes in a stimulant - Epine or Zircon, then scarified (the shell is removed or filed). Then they are sown in light neutral soil, deepened to 1cm, moistened, covered with glass and placed in a warm and bright place (25-28C), if necessary, additionally illuminated with lamps, and heat is provided by heating. Seeds take a long time to germinate - from 3 to 6 months.

Maintain constant humidity throughout the entire time, and do not forget to ventilate! Seedlings dive into separate containers at the stage of 2-4 true leaves.

Osmanthus growing in open ground are not pruned, their shoots are not pinched - this negatively affects their flowering. For indoor or greenhouse forms, pruning is permissible in order to form a beautiful lush bush or tree.
In the conditions of the Middle Zone, osmanthus is usually not grown in open ground, since it is quite difficult to organize wintering for it.

The unpretentious silver acacia is equally successfully propagated by seeds and cuttings. The plant loves light, water- and breathable soils, therefore, for better germination, a mixture of equal parts of leafy soil and river sand is prepared with the addition of vermiculite, and the seeds are soaked in water heated to 60 ºС with the addition of 1-2 drops of a growth biostimulator (Epin will do). or "Zircon") for 1-2 days.
It is necessary to carefully monitor the seeds, avoiding the souring of water. Seeds are planted, deepening them by 0.5 cm, abundantly moisten the substrate in a container and cover the plantings with glass or film. Containers are installed in a warm, bright place, with a constantly maintained temperature of 22-25 ºС. Seeds will take 1 to 5 weeks to germinate. The amplitude in terms is explained solely by the quality of the seeds.
Sprouted seedlings grow intensively, as several true leaves appear, they dive into separate containers filled with a substrate consisting of leafy and soddy soil mixed with sand. The main role in the good development of the seedling is played by light and heat. In the presence of these two components, seedlings quickly turn into young trees and can bloom in the 2nd year.

Seeds are usually sown in the spring. Before planting, it is recommended to soak them for a day, laying them in a moistened cloth. Then the seeds are placed in a warm place. Peat-sand soil is poured into the container, and the seeds are immersed 1 cm into the substrate. Then spraying is carried out from a fine spray gun. The temperature must be maintained within 22-25 degrees. The container is covered with a lid, bag or glass, do not forget to tediously ventilate and moisten the soil in the container if necessary. After 14-20 days, the first shoots will hatch.
After that, the level of illumination is increased, but without direct rays of light. As soon as a couple of true leaves appear on the plants, it is possible to carry out seating in separate pots with more fertile soil. The sprouts are placed one at a time in a container with a diameter of 7 cm. The substrate is made up of humus, peat soil, light soddy soil, river sand (in proportions 1:1:2:1, respectively). When young jacarandas grow up, they are transplanted into pots with diameters of 9–11 cm and the same substrate.

Saxaul seeds do not require preparation for sowing, they can be sown dry. To get fast and friendly germination, the seeds are mixed with wet sand for 1-2 days before sowing, with which they are then sown. The sowing rate of non-winged seeds is 1.5-2 g per 1 linear meter. m; embedment depth 2-3 cm; with shallower incorporation, seed germination may decrease due to the rapid drying of the surface layer of sand even when covering the ridges.
After sowing, the seed tapes are rolled up and completely covered with a grass cover. Usually they use reed-hardened cattail with a layer of about 2-3 cm. When the first shoots appear, the tire is loosened, and later, when the mass emergence of shoots begins, it is shifted from the sowing lines and left for the whole summer in the aisles. This reduces the evaporation of moisture from the surface layers of sand and protects the seedlings from being blown out and notched by sand.

The culture is propagated by seeds. Seeds need pre-treatment: first they are scalded, then soaked in warm water for 24 hours. To increase the percentage of germination, the seeds must be scarified. Treatment with concentrated sulfuric acid is also recommended. Stratification is not forbidden; for this, the seeds are placed in wet sand mixed with peat for three months and stored at a temperature of 5C.

The seeds have good germination.

Soil mixture: light. The substrate is prepared from 1 part of turf, 3 parts of peat crumbs and 0.5 parts of sand. It is allowed to contain a third of peat in it. The ideal option is a soil from compost land with clay-turf soil in equal quantities. A little sand is also added here.

Sowing: Sowing is carried out with the arrival of February. A drainage layer (1/4) is placed in the pot. Then we fill up the layer of earth. To a depth of no more than 0.5 cm, we press the seeds of eucalyptus. Moisten the soil slightly with a spray gun.

The container is turned into a greenhouse, covering it with a plastic film or a cut-off plastic bottle (neck up). In the second case, the container can be ventilated by unscrewing the lid.

At first, regular watering is carried out from a spray bottle. It is increased after the appearance of sprouts, after 10-15 days. It is important to ensure that excess moisture does not stagnate in the pallet, and it is also necessary to maintain a temperature of 21-24C.
In a couple of weeks, the first brownish sprouts will appear.

When 4 leaves appear, the plant is dived into a more convenient pot and placed on a sunny windowsill.

It is very important not to forget to pinch the shoot during growth. When the tree reaches 7 cm, it must be pinched.

Pinching young shoots in the spring makes it possible for eucalyptus to form in the form of a lush bush.

Soil: 2 parts of leaf, 1 part of peat land and 1 part of humus.

Sowing: ficus seeds are planted to a depth of about 0.5 cm . You can sprinkle the seeds with either the same substrate or coarse-grained sand, which perfectly conducts moisture and air. The soil is well moistened, preferably from a sprayer, and covered with a film or glass.

From time to time, it is necessary to ventilate the sprouts by removing the film or glass for a couple of hours. As soon as you see the first shoots, 2-3 leaves, it is necessary to remove the glass (film) completely. After a couple of days, you need to thin out the shoots by removing weak sprouts. Then we take a few plastic cups and transplant the ficus shoots into them. As soon as the plant grows a little, it needs to be transplanted back into a container with a large diameter.
Temperature: preferably moderate, within +25-+30 °C.

Lighting: prefer a bright place, with protection from direct sunlight at noon.

Care: watering likes moderate, does not tolerate waterlogging of the soil.

Ficuses do not like when they are planted in dishes much larger than their root system, so they are transplanted when presumably the roots will fill the entire pot or tub. At the same time, ficuses grow quite quickly, therefore, the soil during transplantation should be nutritious, in addition, fertilizing fertilizing is carried out in spring and summer.

To make the seed germinate faster, pierce it with a needle, put it in warm water, leave it for a day. The second method: dip in hot water for a few minutes, then add cold water to the dishes and leave for 24 hours. Growth stimulants contribute to the accelerated appearance of sprouts.

Sowing: Bury the seed 0.5–1 cm in moist soil, lightly sprinkle with earth. Create a greenhouse effect by covering the planting with a jar or plastic bag. Moisten the soil as it dries. When you see that the plant has released a new leaf, remove the film.

The room temperature should be +27 °C.

After 3-4 months, the plants are transplanted into more spacious containers. The soil is preferably loose and neutral. The maximum pH level is 6.5. A mixture of peat, garden soil, river sand is suitable. You can add ⅛ volume of small pebbles. Before planting, the plant is provided with drainage from stones or scraps of foam, put it in a thick layer on the bottom of the pot.

Care: Every year, transplant young plants into a larger container than the previous one. When the plant is 10-15 years old, replace 1/3 of the earth from above.

After the delonix reaches a height of 150 cm, form its crown. Trim the top and excess side branches. The procedure is carried out after the end of flowering or at the beginning of summer.

Feed fertilizers only in the summer. Water after the earthen lump has dried. The optimal summer temperature is from 24 to 30 °C.

In winter, the plant has a dormant period. The temperature should not fall below 12 °C. Reduce watering to a minimum.

Before sowing, seeds require scarification - destruction of the hard shell, which is carried out mechanically, by grinding with sandpaper or chemically, by keeping the seeds for 15-20 minutes in concentrated sulfuric acid; after which the seeds are thoroughly washed with water and dried to a free-flowing state.

After scarification, soak the seeds for a day in warm water. The substrate is slightly acidic and quite fertile. Seeds are planted to a depth of no more than 1 cm. The crops are sprayed and covered with film and glass. Crops are regularly ventilated and moistened if necessary. Shoots appear in 3-5 weeks.

When a pair of true leaves appear on young cassias, you can replant them in separate pots with appropriate soil.

Wash the seeds thoroughly and scatter them evenly on the surface, then cover the top with a layer of soil about 3 cm thick. Water the seeds twice a day: morning and evening.

If the ambient temperature remains between +18 and +25 ℃, the seeds will germinate within 4-6 weeks. Once the seeds have started to grow, reduce the amount of watering to encourage the roots to grow deeper. If you sowed the seeds in seedling trays, transplant them when they are 30cm tall.

It is recommended to stratify the seeds for 1.5 months in damp, loose sand in the refrigerator. Sowing is carried out in March - April to a depth of 5-6 mm in a substrate composed of sand and peat in equal parts, after which the crops are covered with film. Germinate the seeds at a temperature of 19-21 ºC in the shade, spraying and ventilating from time to time. At the stage of development of 1-2 true leaves, the seedlings dive into a substrate consisting of 2 parts of turf soil, 1 part of sand and 1 part of humus and laid out in pots with a diameter of 7 cm. In the spring, the seedlings are transplanted into large pots - with a diameter of 11 cm - and pinched for strengthening branching. Young brooms 30-55 cm high are planted in open ground in the third year.

In spring sowing of seeds without preliminary stratification, seedlings appear a month after sowing.

Seeds need stratification at a temperature of +5° for 3-4 months.

The seeds germinate well both in autumn and spring sowing in open ground. Seeds germinate within 2 months. Shoots are massive. Seed placement depth is 1-2 cm.

You can also grow seeds through seedlings. This is usually done in February. In room conditions, seeds are sown in prepared soil to a depth of about 1 cm at a distance of 2 cm; after a month, the first shoots will begin to appear. In June, it can be planted in open ground at a distance of 10 cm.

You can plant the whole fruit or break the fruit with a hammer and extract the seeds from it.

Preparation: seeds or fruit are scarified and pre-soaked for 1 day in a weak solution of potassium permanganate or in warm water with the addition of stimulants.

Sowing: sown in pots or cassettes with a well-drained substrate, moistened with a spray bottle, covered with film and germinated in the light (not in the sun) at a temperature of 20-25°C. The seedlings need ventilation. The soil should always be moist.

Germination takes from 1-5 months to 1-2 years. After germination, the plants are planted in new containers.

Sowing: Bury the seed 0.5–1 cm into moist soil, lightly sprinkle with soil. Create a greenhouse effect by covering the planting with film. Moisten the soil as it dries. When you see that the plant has produced a new leaf, remove the film.

The room temperature should be +27 °C. After 3–4 months, the plants are transplanted into larger containers. The soil is preferably loose and neutral. A mixture of peat, garden soil, and river sand is suitable. You can add ⅛ of the volume of small pebbles. Before planting, the plant is provided with drainage from stones or scraps of foam, laid in a thick layer on the bottom of the pot.

Care: fertilizing, regular watering.

In February-March, soak the seeds in warm water for about a day and place them to a depth of 1 cm in moist, loose soil (a mixture of turf, leaf, peat soil and sand (1:1:1:1)). Cover the box with film and place in a warm place.

When the seedlings appear, they are transplanted into separate pots, which are then placed on a well-lit windowsill.

Care: regular abundant watering, fertilizing, intense lighting, temperature: from spring to autumn within 20-24 °C, in winter 16-18 °C.

Before sowing, the seeds are scarified using sandpaper or a sharp object, carefully so as not to damage the seed embryo. The seeds are pre-soaked for 1-2 hours, then placed in soil consisting of perlite, sand and peat in equal proportions. The sowing depth is 2 seed diameters. Cover with film and germinate at a temperature not lower than +25 degrees. Shoots appear on the 14-28th day.

Grown plants are planted in pots with soil consisting of 2 parts turf soil, 1 part leaf soil with the addition of sand.

Care: regular watering, fertilizing, pruning, temperature in warm weather from 20 to 26 degrees, in winter - 18 degrees.

Seeds are sown in moist peat with the addition of sand or perlite. Germinate under film in the light at a temperature of 22-28°C. Seedlings dive into separate containers in the phase of 4 true leaves.

Care: regular watering, fertilizing during the growing season 2 times a month with complex mineral fertilizer.

Soil for sowing: 2 parts leaf soil, 1 part peat soil and 1 part humus.

Sowing: plant ficus seeds to a depth of about 0.5 cm. You can sprinkle the seeds either with the same substrate or with coarse sand, which perfectly conducts moisture and air. The soil is well moistened, preferably from a sprayer, and covered with film or glass.

From time to time it is necessary to ventilate the sprouts by removing the film or glass for a couple of hours. As soon as you see the first shoots, 2-3 leaves, you need to remove the glass (film) completely. After a couple of days, you need to thin out the seedlings, removing weak shoots. Then we take several plastic cups and transplant the ficus shoots into them. As soon as the plant grows a little, it needs to be replanted in a container with a larger diameter.

Temperature: preferably moderate, within +18-+25°C.

Lighting: prefer a bright place, with protection from direct sunlight during midday hours.

Care: prefers moderate watering and does not tolerate waterlogging of the soil. It is necessary to protect from drafts and keep away from heating devices.

Ficuses do not like to be planted in a container much larger than their root system, so they are replanted when the roots are expected to fill the entire pot or tub. At the same time, ficus trees grow quite quickly, therefore, the soil when transplanting must be nutritious, in addition, fertilizer fertilizing is carried out in spring and summer.

Sowing: the seeds are scarified (carefully cut, filed), and then kept in hot water for 12 hours.

A layer of drainage, about 4-5 cm, is poured into containers for germination, filled with soil, and moistened. The seeds are laid out on the surface, sprinkled with soil and moistened again, covered with film and placed in a well-lit place, with a temperature of about 20-25°C, preventing the soil surface from drying out. In a week the first shoots should appear.

Care: temperature not lower than +20C, regular watering, loosening the top layer of soil, fertilizing with mineral fertilizers.

Preparation: the seeds must be scarified: immersed in very hot water or carefully sawed into the seed, thinning the hard shell.

Before planting, it is advisable to soak the seeds in hot water with the addition of potassium permanganate.

Soil for germination: coconut substrate with the addition of perlite and vermiculite.

Sowing: spread the seeds on the surface, sprinkle with a thin layer of soil (do not bury them!), moisten with a spray bottle, cover with film. The optimal temperature for germination is above +24ºС. The best option would be a greenhouse with bottom heating.

As soon as the seedlings have their first couple of true leaves, they must be carefully transplanted into loose, well-drained soil.

Care: Regular watering, loosening the top layer of soil, fertilizing with fertilizers. The temperature in winter is not lower than 15ºС; in summer, outdoor maintenance is recommended.

Sowing: Seeds are sown on the surface of pre-moistened soil, sprinkled with 1-2 mm of dry soil, slightly moistened with a sprayer, covered with film and placed in a warm place (but not near the radiator). Be sure to monitor the soil moisture and avoid overwatering. From time to time it is necessary to ventilate the sprouts by removing the film or glass for a couple of hours. As soon as you see the first shoots, 2-3 leaves, you need to remove the film completely.

Lighting: prefer a bright place, protected from direct sunlight.

Care: moderate watering, loosening the top layer of soil, fertilizing with mineral and organic fertilizers in spring and summer once a month. It is necessary to protect from drafts and keep away from heating devices.

Temperature: in summer 20-26°C, and in winter not lower than 12°C.

Soak the seeds in warm water for 2 hours, then sow them in a light soil mixture, moisten, cover with film and germinate in the light, but not in the sun, at a temperature of +20-+25°C.