Agrotechnics for Lawn Grass
Everything about choosing seed mixes, soil preparation, sowing, and maintenance for a perfect lawn.
Important!
Seeds that have passed stratification, we send wet in perlite, and if you received dry seeds (without perlite), which means that they have not passed stratification and you, if it is required for seeds, need to stratify!
Stratification is not required. Sowing to a depth of 0.5-1 cm.
The site is preliminarily dug up to the depth of the shovel bayonet, removing weed roots, after which the surface is leveled and furrows are made in it. The seeds are sown to a depth of 1 cm and watered abundantly after planting. When sowing in dry soil, it is advisable to cover the beds with a film to speed up the emergence of seedlings.
The site is preliminarily dug up to the depth of the shovel bayonet, removing weed roots, after which the surface is leveled and furrows are made in it. The seeds are sown to a depth of 1 cm and watered abundantly after planting. When sowing in dry soil, it is advisable to cover the beds with a film to speed up the emergence of seedlings.
Before planting the seeds, they must be soaked in warm water. To improve germination, a solution of "Epin" or "Zircon" is added to the liquid. The raw material is very small, so for convenience it can be laid out on a damp cloth and put in a warm place for a day. Seeds are sown in late March or early April on the surface of a well-moistened substrate from garden soil, compost, humus and river sand. Seeds do not need to be planted. Cover the crops with a transparent material and place in a warm, bright place. The air temperature should not fall below 15 ° C, otherwise the plants will get sick with a black leg. If it is cloudy outside, then be sure to illuminate with a phytolamp. Stevia will hatch in 1-2 weeks, after which the polyethylene can be removed. When the seedlings grow up to 5-7 centimeters and give out 2-3 true leaves, they can be picked. In individual cups, plants should be transferred carefully, together in a clod of earth. Deepen to the first leaves. Water regularly. A couple of times you can combine watering with top dressing with complex mineral fertilizer. Also, do not leave young plants in direct sunlight.
Unfortunately, due to the size of quinoa, it is not possible to grow it at home on a windowsill. Its root system will not need a large pot or container. And in the flower garden, he will feel great, because quinoa, as it ripens, also blooms very beautifully. Under certain conditions, the plant does not require careful care. If the winter in your area is warm enough, then the seeds can be sown into the soil in late summer or early autumn. In order for them to germinate, the soil temperature must be at least 15 ° C. First you need to dig up the soil, and then sprinkle it with fresh compost on top. Then loosen the bed, highlighting rows for seeds on it. The distance between them is at least 30 cm. The holes themselves must be placed at the same distance. After planting, the seeds should be covered with a thin layer of soil, and then sprayed with water to moisten the soil. In order for quinoa to germinate accurately, it is necessary to put 2-3 seeds in one hole. Usually the first seedlings rise above the soil in about 4-5 days. If all the seedlings sprout, the excess must be removed. In cramped conditions, they will not be able to give a good harvest. Soil is the only thing demanding on quinoa. Loamy soil is suitable for growing the plant. It is important that it contains a lot of organic matter, otherwise the harvest will not be rich.
Seeds need a two-stage stratification: I - when 10-20° for 3-4 months, while a gradual decrease in T is recommended (2-3 months at 18-20°, then 1-2 months at 5-10°), II - at 0-3° for 3 months When sown immediately in a permanent place, seedlings appear in the second year.
Seeds are sown in loose, fertile, slightly moistened soil, after soaking them for a day in warm water. When germinating, it is necessary to maintain sufficient moisture and protect the seedlings from direct sunlight. Young plants are planted in deep pots and kept in a shaded greenhouse for at least the first winter.
Seeds are sown in loose, fertile, slightly moistened soil, after soaking them for a day in warm water. When germinating, it is necessary to maintain sufficient moisture and protect the seedlings from direct sunlight. Young plants are planted in deep pots and kept in a shaded greenhouse for at least the first winter.
Stratification is not required, but cold stratification for 2-3 months increases germination. Seeding is superficial. The seeds are photosensitive.
Planted in early spring superficially or at shallow depths. Seedlings are planted in nutrient soil, maintaining a temperature of + 25 ° C, covering with a transparent material. After the appearance of sprouts, the shelter is removed, and after the leaves appear and the soil warms up, they are planted in prepared pits on the street. In winter, seedlings are covered with peat, sawdust.
Planted in early spring superficially or at shallow depths. Seedlings are planted in nutrient soil, maintaining a temperature of + 25 ° C, covering with a transparent material. After the appearance of sprouts, the shelter is removed, and after the leaves appear and the soil warms up, they are planted in prepared pits on the street. In winter, seedlings are covered with peat, sawdust.
Improve poor soil with a little compost before planting lunaria. You can sow it directly into the ground in March-April.
For flowering in early spring of the next year, seeds are sown in the ground from June to September.
How to sow lunaria seeds in open ground:
In well-drained, loosened soil with a hoe, seeds are sown randomly. Seeds should be covered with finely sifted soil (sowing depth 2-3 mm). Lightly tamp the crops. Maintain moisture by watering the bed with a small-hole watering can until emergence (usually 14-21 days). When planting in full sun, protect young seedlings that just emerge with a canopy. After germination, thin out the young plants, leaving one every 30 cm. When sowing seedlings or in a greenhouse, when the seedlings have 2-3 leaves, pick them into separate pots. But this intermediate transplant is not necessary, it is carried out only when growing lunaria seedlings. Seedlings can be transplanted into a flower bed without picking in well-prepared soil.
For flowering in early spring of the next year, seeds are sown in the ground from June to September.
How to sow lunaria seeds in open ground:
In well-drained, loosened soil with a hoe, seeds are sown randomly. Seeds should be covered with finely sifted soil (sowing depth 2-3 mm). Lightly tamp the crops. Maintain moisture by watering the bed with a small-hole watering can until emergence (usually 14-21 days). When planting in full sun, protect young seedlings that just emerge with a canopy. After germination, thin out the young plants, leaving one every 30 cm. When sowing seedlings or in a greenhouse, when the seedlings have 2-3 leaves, pick them into separate pots. But this intermediate transplant is not necessary, it is carried out only when growing lunaria seedlings. Seedlings can be transplanted into a flower bed without picking in well-prepared soil.
Goatbeard is a completely unpretentious plant. Its seeds germinate already at a temperature of +3 degrees. True, when growing a plant for food purposes, you should take care of the composition of the soil. It should be nutritious, non-acidic and loose. Seeds can be sown in late autumn or early spring in the ground previously dug up to a depth of 30 cm. The seeding depth is 2.5 cm. The distance between the rows is 25–30 cm. If the soil is poor, it is necessary to apply phosphorus-potassium fertilizers in the fall, and complex fertilizers in the spring. It should be borne in mind that the oat root, like all root crops, does not like fresh manure. It is desirable to mulch the crops with humus, shoots will begin to appear in 2-3 weeks. As they grow, they need to be thinned out so that in the end the distance between plants is within 10 cm. Until the plants get stronger, the soil must be regularly loosened and weeds removed. During the growth period, the goat-beard needs watering, in the future it will have enough natural precipitation. In the first year of life, the oat root forms a rosette of leaves and a root crop. If the plants of the first year of life go to the arrow, they must be removed, otherwise the roots of such specimens will be small and hard. Goatbeard is a completely unpretentious plant. Its seeds germinate already at a temperature of +3 degrees. True, when growing a plant for food purposes, you should take care of the composition of the soil. It should be nutritious, non-acidic and loose. Seeds can be sown in late autumn or early spring in the ground previously dug up to a depth of 30 cm. The seeding depth is 2.5 cm. The distance between the rows is 25–30 cm. If the soil is poor, it is necessary to apply phosphorus-potassium fertilizers in the fall, and complex fertilizers in the spring. It should be borne in mind that the oat root, like all root crops, does not like fresh manure. It is desirable to mulch the crops with humus, shoots will begin to appear in 2-3 weeks. As they grow, they need to be thinned out so that in the end the distance between plants is within 10 cm. Until the plants get stronger, the soil must be regularly loosened and weeds removed. During the growth period, the goat-beard needs watering, in the future it will have enough natural precipitation. In the first year of life, the oat root forms a rosette of leaves and a root crop. If the plants of the first year of life go to the arrow, they must be removed, otherwise the roots of such specimens will be small and hard.
Stratification is not required. Seeding is superficial. The seeds are photosensitive.
Tansy seeds are sown outdoors in late April or early May, although many gardeners prefer to do this in mid-autumn. Sowing is carried out according to the scheme 20x40 cm, sown superficially or at a shallow depth. Tansy requires virtually no care. Water it from time to time, loosen the soil around it, remove weeds between the rows. In early spring and after flowering, tansy is fed with ammonium nitrate and superphosphate in an amount per 1 m² of 10-15 g and 20 g, respectively. Tansy from seeds will bloom only in the second year.
Tansy seeds are sown outdoors in late April or early May, although many gardeners prefer to do this in mid-autumn. Sowing is carried out according to the scheme 20x40 cm, sown superficially or at a shallow depth. Tansy requires virtually no care. Water it from time to time, loosen the soil around it, remove weeds between the rows. In early spring and after flowering, tansy is fed with ammonium nitrate and superphosphate in an amount per 1 m² of 10-15 g and 20 g, respectively. Tansy from seeds will bloom only in the second year.
When planning how to grow rice at home, the first thing to do is to compare the conditions available with those that the crop needs:
- a well-warmed up area by the sun;
- temperature during the day + 22 ... + 25 degrees, at night - not less than +15;
- the presence of irrigation or the possibility of flooding the beds.
Location selection
In nature, cereal grows in wetlands, so the most important thing when choosing a place is to ensure the level of humidity necessary for the culture. For personal consumption, cereals are often grown in boxes. Given the long growing season, it makes sense to plant plants through seedlings. The landing area should be well lit,
Seed preparation
How to grow rice at home from seeds? Prepare large containers. It is better to use seeds of the same variety. Fill them with water, leave overnight. Soaking will reduce the concentration of substances that interfere with germination in the grains, and the process will begin faster.
Landing
For the convenience of caring for the plant, it is better to make rows and beds. The land must be cleared of weeds. Water the soil abundantly, bury the seeds in it and water again. The distance between the seeds is about 10 cm, between the beds - up to 30 cm.
sprout care
The complexity of care lies in the need to constantly moisten the soil so that the soil does not dry out. Compost or mulch will help make the task easier. A week after planting, the first shoots will appear. The entire ripening period (about 3-4 months) seedlings should be in the water.
- a well-warmed up area by the sun;
- temperature during the day + 22 ... + 25 degrees, at night - not less than +15;
- the presence of irrigation or the possibility of flooding the beds.
Location selection
In nature, cereal grows in wetlands, so the most important thing when choosing a place is to ensure the level of humidity necessary for the culture. For personal consumption, cereals are often grown in boxes. Given the long growing season, it makes sense to plant plants through seedlings. The landing area should be well lit,
Seed preparation
How to grow rice at home from seeds? Prepare large containers. It is better to use seeds of the same variety. Fill them with water, leave overnight. Soaking will reduce the concentration of substances that interfere with germination in the grains, and the process will begin faster.
Landing
For the convenience of caring for the plant, it is better to make rows and beds. The land must be cleared of weeds. Water the soil abundantly, bury the seeds in it and water again. The distance between the seeds is about 10 cm, between the beds - up to 30 cm.
sprout care
The complexity of care lies in the need to constantly moisten the soil so that the soil does not dry out. Compost or mulch will help make the task easier. A week after planting, the first shoots will appear. The entire ripening period (about 3-4 months) seedlings should be in the water.
Seeds need stratif. at 5° for 2-3 months
It is necessary to plant echinacea seeds for seedlings in the early stages. In the middle lane, sowing is usually carried out in early March, in Siberia and the Urals - a couple of weeks later. In the southern regions, landing is allowed as early as mid-February.
Before being transferred to open ground, echinacea seedlings should spend about 2-2.5 months at home. Therefore, the optimal sowing time is chosen in accordance with the climate of the region. Planting echinacea seeds for seedlings is carried out using a total capacity of about 7 cm in height. You can take both a wooden box and a plastic container. Drainage holes are made at the bottom to remove moisture. Before planting echinacea seeds for seedlings, the container must be disinfected from bacteria with boiling water or a solution of potassium permanganate. Culture soil for cultivation requires nutritious, loose and with good breathability. The easiest way is to buy a ready-made substrate for flowers in the store and dilute it with a small amount of perlite. You can also make the soil for echinacea with your own hands - for this you need to mix garden soil, humus, lowland peat and river sand in a ratio of 4: 1: 8: 1. Like the container, the substrate must first be disinfected - calcined in the oven, poured with boiling water or treated with a solution of manganese.
The main difficulties in growing purple echinacea from seeds are due to the fact that the grains are covered with a very dense shell. Before sowing, it is recommended to subject the material to special treatment. It is carried out as follows:
- Prepare a solution of 100 ml of warm water and 3-4 drops of Epin.
- Soak echinacea seeds in a growth stimulator for several hours.
- After the lapse of time, they are washed and laid out on a well-moistened cloth.
- Cover the top with a second piece of wet cloth and place in a plastic bag.
- Tie tightly and leave in a warm place.
- Every day, the seeds must be checked, aired and, if necessary, re-wet the cloth. Sowing for cultivation is carried out immediately after the grains hatch slightly in conditions of high humidity.
To sow echinacea seeds, you must use a standard algorithm. It looks like this:
- A small layer of drainage is poured onto the bottom of the landing container - perlite, coarse sand or expanded clay.
- Lay the disinfected substrate on top, retreating 2-3 cm from the edges of the container.
- Press the soil mixture with your hands and make grooves up to 5 mm deep.
- Lay out the echinacea seeds in the recesses at intervals of 2 - 3 cm.
- Sprinkle the grooves with a thin layer of clean sand.
- Copiously spray the soil with lukewarm water from a spray bottle.
- Immediately after sowing echinacea for seedlings at home, cover the container with plastic wrap. Before the formation of seedlings, it is placed in a cool place with moderate lighting.
The rules for growing echinacea are quite standard. At first, the box with seedlings is kept under the film, but the latter is removed daily for 20 minutes for airing. When the first shoots appear in the container, the shelter will need to be completely removed and the echinacea transferred to a well-lit windowsill. The temperature during cultivation can be raised up to about 18 °C. It is undesirable to keep seedlings in a hotly heated room, echinacea does not like excessive heat. After the formation of a pair of true leaves in echinacea, the seedlings dive into separate cups. The procedure is carried out very carefully, trying not to damage the roots and keeping the earthen ball around them as much as possible. A couple of weeks after picking, seedlings are fed for the first time with a weak solution of complex mineral fertilizer. Transplantation of echinacea from seeds into open ground for further cultivation is carried out in early or mid-May, in the Urals and Siberia - at the end of the month. For seedlings, an open and sun-warmed place with loose neutral soil is chosen on the site.
It is necessary to plant echinacea seeds for seedlings in the early stages. In the middle lane, sowing is usually carried out in early March, in Siberia and the Urals - a couple of weeks later. In the southern regions, landing is allowed as early as mid-February.
Before being transferred to open ground, echinacea seedlings should spend about 2-2.5 months at home. Therefore, the optimal sowing time is chosen in accordance with the climate of the region. Planting echinacea seeds for seedlings is carried out using a total capacity of about 7 cm in height. You can take both a wooden box and a plastic container. Drainage holes are made at the bottom to remove moisture. Before planting echinacea seeds for seedlings, the container must be disinfected from bacteria with boiling water or a solution of potassium permanganate. Culture soil for cultivation requires nutritious, loose and with good breathability. The easiest way is to buy a ready-made substrate for flowers in the store and dilute it with a small amount of perlite. You can also make the soil for echinacea with your own hands - for this you need to mix garden soil, humus, lowland peat and river sand in a ratio of 4: 1: 8: 1. Like the container, the substrate must first be disinfected - calcined in the oven, poured with boiling water or treated with a solution of manganese.
The main difficulties in growing purple echinacea from seeds are due to the fact that the grains are covered with a very dense shell. Before sowing, it is recommended to subject the material to special treatment. It is carried out as follows:
- Prepare a solution of 100 ml of warm water and 3-4 drops of Epin.
- Soak echinacea seeds in a growth stimulator for several hours.
- After the lapse of time, they are washed and laid out on a well-moistened cloth.
- Cover the top with a second piece of wet cloth and place in a plastic bag.
- Tie tightly and leave in a warm place.
- Every day, the seeds must be checked, aired and, if necessary, re-wet the cloth. Sowing for cultivation is carried out immediately after the grains hatch slightly in conditions of high humidity.
To sow echinacea seeds, you must use a standard algorithm. It looks like this:
- A small layer of drainage is poured onto the bottom of the landing container - perlite, coarse sand or expanded clay.
- Lay the disinfected substrate on top, retreating 2-3 cm from the edges of the container.
- Press the soil mixture with your hands and make grooves up to 5 mm deep.
- Lay out the echinacea seeds in the recesses at intervals of 2 - 3 cm.
- Sprinkle the grooves with a thin layer of clean sand.
- Copiously spray the soil with lukewarm water from a spray bottle.
- Immediately after sowing echinacea for seedlings at home, cover the container with plastic wrap. Before the formation of seedlings, it is placed in a cool place with moderate lighting.
The rules for growing echinacea are quite standard. At first, the box with seedlings is kept under the film, but the latter is removed daily for 20 minutes for airing. When the first shoots appear in the container, the shelter will need to be completely removed and the echinacea transferred to a well-lit windowsill. The temperature during cultivation can be raised up to about 18 °C. It is undesirable to keep seedlings in a hotly heated room, echinacea does not like excessive heat. After the formation of a pair of true leaves in echinacea, the seedlings dive into separate cups. The procedure is carried out very carefully, trying not to damage the roots and keeping the earthen ball around them as much as possible. A couple of weeks after picking, seedlings are fed for the first time with a weak solution of complex mineral fertilizer. Transplantation of echinacea from seeds into open ground for further cultivation is carried out in early or mid-May, in the Urals and Siberia - at the end of the month. For seedlings, an open and sun-warmed place with loose neutral soil is chosen on the site.
Stratification is not required. Sowing to a depth of 0.5-1 cm.
Growing amaranth is a simple matter. In areas where by the end of April the soil at a depth of 4-5 cm is already warmed up by the sun to 10 ºC, you can sow amaranth seeds directly into the ground, but before that you should prepare the site - add 30 g of mineral mixture or complex for each square meter for digging. fertilizers according to the instructions. However, when planting fertilizers into the soil, observe the measure: amaranth has the ability to turn nitrogen fertilizers into nitrates that are hazardous to health, so do not get carried away with the nitrogen component. If you sow amaranth on time, it will quickly grow, and you will not have to fight weeds. So, at the end of April, seeds are planted one at a time in grooves in moist soil and buried to a depth of 0.5-1 cm. For convenience, small seeds can be mixed with sand or sawdust in a ratio of 1:20 - it is easier to sow. A distance of 45 cm is observed between rows, between specimens should be about 7-10 cm, so experienced flower growers prefer to suffer with sowing, but do not mix the seeds with sand, but lay them out one by one. After 8-10 days, you will see seedlings, which, if necessary, need to be thinned out, and the soil between them loosened. If you planted amaranth later, in May, you will also have to fight weeds. When the amaranth reaches a height of 20 cm, fertilize with nitrogen fertilizer, but the nitrogen concentration should be half that recommended by the manufacturer. Whether you grow vegetable or decorative amaranth, it does not matter - it will fully ripen in three or three and a half months from the moment of sowing.
Growing amaranth is a simple matter. In areas where by the end of April the soil at a depth of 4-5 cm is already warmed up by the sun to 10 ºC, you can sow amaranth seeds directly into the ground, but before that you should prepare the site - add 30 g of mineral mixture or complex for each square meter for digging. fertilizers according to the instructions. However, when planting fertilizers into the soil, observe the measure: amaranth has the ability to turn nitrogen fertilizers into nitrates that are hazardous to health, so do not get carried away with the nitrogen component. If you sow amaranth on time, it will quickly grow, and you will not have to fight weeds. So, at the end of April, seeds are planted one at a time in grooves in moist soil and buried to a depth of 0.5-1 cm. For convenience, small seeds can be mixed with sand or sawdust in a ratio of 1:20 - it is easier to sow. A distance of 45 cm is observed between rows, between specimens should be about 7-10 cm, so experienced flower growers prefer to suffer with sowing, but do not mix the seeds with sand, but lay them out one by one. After 8-10 days, you will see seedlings, which, if necessary, need to be thinned out, and the soil between them loosened. If you planted amaranth later, in May, you will also have to fight weeds. When the amaranth reaches a height of 20 cm, fertilize with nitrogen fertilizer, but the nitrogen concentration should be half that recommended by the manufacturer. Whether you grow vegetable or decorative amaranth, it does not matter - it will fully ripen in three or three and a half months from the moment of sowing.
Stratification is not required. Sowing to a depth of 0.5-1 cm. Growing fenugreek through seedlings is not recommended, since the seeds germinate better when directly sown in the ground. The plant does not tolerate transplanting well. If you do decide to grow fenugreek through seedlings, use pots that decompose in the ground. In cold climates, and these are all climatic zones of Russia, the plant is grown as an annual crop. Before sowing fenugreek seeds, soak them in water for eight hours to a day. During this time, the seeds will swell and be ready for planting. It is not necessary to leave the seeds in water for more than a day, since the germination of seeds in the soil occurs better than in water. Sow the seeds shallow, planting about half a centimeter into the ground. Keep the distance between the seeds in the region of 15 cm. The seeds will sprout in about 5 days.
In the Moscow region and in central Russia
Sow fenugreek seeds in these areas at the end of April. Embed into the ground to a depth of 0.5-1 cm. It is better to sow the seeds on the beds, sowing with a continuous tape, keep the distance between the beds about 15 cm. After the emergence of seedlings, thin out the plants. The plucked sprouts can be planted, or chopped and added to a salad.
In Siberia and the Urals
Since the culture of fenugreek is thermophilic and does not tolerate frost, in Siberia it should be grown under cover. To get a good harvest, you can do the following:
- Take a large aluminum pan and fill it with suitable soil and sand. The soil should not be very fertile and slightly acidic.
- Put on the edges of the arc to shelter crops on especially cold days.
Such a container with shelter will provide suitable conditions for the development of plants.
In the Moscow region and in central Russia
Sow fenugreek seeds in these areas at the end of April. Embed into the ground to a depth of 0.5-1 cm. It is better to sow the seeds on the beds, sowing with a continuous tape, keep the distance between the beds about 15 cm. After the emergence of seedlings, thin out the plants. The plucked sprouts can be planted, or chopped and added to a salad.
In Siberia and the Urals
Since the culture of fenugreek is thermophilic and does not tolerate frost, in Siberia it should be grown under cover. To get a good harvest, you can do the following:
- Take a large aluminum pan and fill it with suitable soil and sand. The soil should not be very fertile and slightly acidic.
- Put on the edges of the arc to shelter crops on especially cold days.
Such a container with shelter will provide suitable conditions for the development of plants.
In Russia, the climate makes it possible to grow sesame in the Krasnodar Territory. The plant needs a long daylight hours - at least 12 hours, daytime temperature not lower than 25 ° C, moderate watering. Sesame does not tolerate: frost; waterlogging; marshy soils. The plant prefers loose black soil or light loam without stagnant water. Before sowing, the seeds are treated with a fungicide, for example, Alirin-B. Sowing in open ground is carried out when the daytime temperature reaches + 20–30 °С, the night temperature is not lower than + 15 °С. Plants die at + 3 °C and below.
Sesame takes 100-135 days to reach maturity and growing seedlings indoors guarantees a successful harvest even in the middle lane. In our climate, sesame seeds cannot be sown directly in open ground. Seedlings should be sown four to six weeks before the approximate date of the last frost.
Sowing is carried out in trays filled with a ready-made universal mixture for growing flowers or vegetables. When sowing, you need to lightly sprinkle the seeds with a substrate. Keep moist until they germinate, then water once a week or so.
Optimum soil temperature for sesame germination: 21°C. Shoots usually appear in 10-14 days. The grown seedlings need to be picked up or pulled apart. In open ground, they will be ready for transplantation as soon as the temperature outside reaches 20 degrees. Plant young bushes quite densely at a distance of 15 cm, in rows 60-45 cm wide.
Sesame is an indeterminate plant, which means it will continue to flower and set pods in the summer for an extended period, peaking in July and early August.
Sesame takes 100-135 days to reach maturity and growing seedlings indoors guarantees a successful harvest even in the middle lane. In our climate, sesame seeds cannot be sown directly in open ground. Seedlings should be sown four to six weeks before the approximate date of the last frost.
Sowing is carried out in trays filled with a ready-made universal mixture for growing flowers or vegetables. When sowing, you need to lightly sprinkle the seeds with a substrate. Keep moist until they germinate, then water once a week or so.
Optimum soil temperature for sesame germination: 21°C. Shoots usually appear in 10-14 days. The grown seedlings need to be picked up or pulled apart. In open ground, they will be ready for transplantation as soon as the temperature outside reaches 20 degrees. Plant young bushes quite densely at a distance of 15 cm, in rows 60-45 cm wide.
Sesame is an indeterminate plant, which means it will continue to flower and set pods in the summer for an extended period, peaking in July and early August.
The culture is perennial, but in a temperate climate it freezes out - therefore, in the conditions of the middle zone and the Moscow region, it is grown exclusively as an annual.
Sow seeds for seedlings in March-April.
1) Fill wide containers with nutrient soil, spread the seeds-grains over the surface, only slightly pressing into the soil.
2) Moisten the crops with a fine spray.
3) Cover with glass or film to create a greenhouse effect.
4) Do not forget to ventilate daily, eliminating condensation.
5) Maintain optimal soil moisture.
6) Keep the air temperature at 22-24 °C.
7) Lighting is required bright, but diffused.
8) When the sprouts appear, remove the shelter. Leave the lighting level the same, lower the air temperature to 20 ° C, water moderately.
Plant the grown seedlings in individual containers. When picking, try not to damage the roots, carefully lower the plants into the prepared holes, carefully sprinkle with earth and water. After transplanting, provide light shade until the plants take root.
Further care is simple: maintaining the humidity of the substrate, good diffused lighting and warm air temperature without overheating, so that the seedlings do not stretch. If the room is dark, additional lighting with phytolamps will be required. It can be transplanted into open ground with the establishment of real heat, when the threat of return frosts has completely passed. Pre-harden: take out to fresh air a couple of weeks before transplantation, increase the length of stay daily and increase the intensity of lighting.
Sow seeds for seedlings in March-April.
1) Fill wide containers with nutrient soil, spread the seeds-grains over the surface, only slightly pressing into the soil.
2) Moisten the crops with a fine spray.
3) Cover with glass or film to create a greenhouse effect.
4) Do not forget to ventilate daily, eliminating condensation.
5) Maintain optimal soil moisture.
6) Keep the air temperature at 22-24 °C.
7) Lighting is required bright, but diffused.
8) When the sprouts appear, remove the shelter. Leave the lighting level the same, lower the air temperature to 20 ° C, water moderately.
Plant the grown seedlings in individual containers. When picking, try not to damage the roots, carefully lower the plants into the prepared holes, carefully sprinkle with earth and water. After transplanting, provide light shade until the plants take root.
Further care is simple: maintaining the humidity of the substrate, good diffused lighting and warm air temperature without overheating, so that the seedlings do not stretch. If the room is dark, additional lighting with phytolamps will be required. It can be transplanted into open ground with the establishment of real heat, when the threat of return frosts has completely passed. Pre-harden: take out to fresh air a couple of weeks before transplantation, increase the length of stay daily and increase the intensity of lighting.
Aegopodium seeds are sown in March-April in moist peat soils. Before sowing, the seeds are soaked in a solution of potassium permanganate (1 teaspoon per 10 liters of water) or growth stimulator "Epin" (1 tablet per 5 liters of water). The crops are covered with glass or plastic film and kept at a temperature of 18-20°C for 7-10 days. During this time, the seeds germinate and sprout.
The moth prefers shady places and grows well under trees, but in a sunny place the variegated variety of the plant will not be so attractive.
The moth prefers shady places and grows well under trees, but in a sunny place the variegated variety of the plant will not be so attractive.
The upland uterus is a plant that is quite difficult to grow in your garden or vegetable garden.
Why can this plant be called whimsical? The thing is that the upland uterus will not tolerate the neighborhood with tomatoes and cucumbers, which constantly require fertilizing with fertilizers. Indeed, in natural conditions, the upland uterus does without all this. Therefore, it is never possible to grow a medicinal plant near the rest of the beds.
And the conditions themselves for growing a boron queen need special ones. In the garden, you need to create a real edge of the forest, which will be illuminated by the sun, but at the same time, the sun's rays will only penetrate here in the mornings or in the evenings, when the sun is not so scorching.
Seed germination occurs, as in other species of the family: the seedling first leads an underground lifestyle, feeding on mycorrhiza, in the 2nd year or later an above-ground stem and leaf appear, in the 4-5th plant blooms.
Why can this plant be called whimsical? The thing is that the upland uterus will not tolerate the neighborhood with tomatoes and cucumbers, which constantly require fertilizing with fertilizers. Indeed, in natural conditions, the upland uterus does without all this. Therefore, it is never possible to grow a medicinal plant near the rest of the beds.
And the conditions themselves for growing a boron queen need special ones. In the garden, you need to create a real edge of the forest, which will be illuminated by the sun, but at the same time, the sun's rays will only penetrate here in the mornings or in the evenings, when the sun is not so scorching.
Seed germination occurs, as in other species of the family: the seedling first leads an underground lifestyle, feeding on mycorrhiza, in the 2nd year or later an above-ground stem and leaf appear, in the 4-5th plant blooms.
Garden castor propagates exclusively generatively - by seeds that are scarified before sowing. Since out of 10 sown seeds no more than 6-7 germinate, it makes sense to facilitate germination of tight castor seeds by rubbing them with sandpaper before sowing, and then soaking them overnight in Epin, Heteroauxin or other growth stimulant. You can sow seeds directly into the ground in late April or May, but it is better to sow castor seeds for seedlings in March or early April. To do this, they are sown individually to a depth of 2-3 cm in plastic liter buckets, half filled with garden soil. If you scarified the seeds before planting, seedlings can be expected in 3-4 days. If the sticky skin covering the cotyledon leaves does not want to come off, remove it with tweezers, otherwise the seed may rot. Castor seedlings grow very quickly: first the stem is pulled out, then the first leaf appears, and at this time the seedlings must be placed in a cool, bright place with a temperature of at least 15 ºC. As the seedlings grow, soil is poured into the buckets until they are filled to the top. If the seedlings grow too fast, you will have to transfer them to a large container. By the time of planting in open ground, castor seedlings sometimes reach 1 m in height.
Seeds need stratif. with periodically changing temperature (1 day 18 - 20 ° and 2 days 5-7 °) for 4-6 months.
Aralia seeds germinate very slowly - in the third year, and in anticipation of seedlings, the garden bed must be watered regularly, otherwise the seedlings may not appear. And the reason for such a tight germination of seeds is that their germs, like the germs of ginseng, are underdeveloped, and at first they ripen in the ground, and only then begin to grow. Planting aralia in open ground is best done in the fall, after leaf fall, or in the spring, before the buds swell on the trees. Aralia prefers to grow in a well-moistened area, which is illuminated by the sun only up to 11-12 hours.
Aralia seeds germinate very slowly - in the third year, and in anticipation of seedlings, the garden bed must be watered regularly, otherwise the seedlings may not appear. And the reason for such a tight germination of seeds is that their germs, like the germs of ginseng, are underdeveloped, and at first they ripen in the ground, and only then begin to grow. Planting aralia in open ground is best done in the fall, after leaf fall, or in the spring, before the buds swell on the trees. Aralia prefers to grow in a well-moistened area, which is illuminated by the sun only up to 11-12 hours.
It is advisable to choose a sunny area for it, but in addition to this, you need to pay attention to the soil - non-acidic, fertile and loose. It is best to sow in the spring, for example, in March, because the bushes will have time to get stronger by the cold weather and they will not be afraid of frost. But under the winter it is undesirable, since the seedlings may die. But this is if you need sowing for seedlings. If the gardener is going to plant the seeds immediately in the ground, then May (10-20th) will be the best month.
Before you start seedlings, you need to prepare boxes and soil. They take sand, process it to prevent the occurrence of various diseases, then mix it with peat and soddy soil. In this case, the last two components are taken in a ratio of 1 to 1, and there is a little less sand. Next, you need to mix everything until a homogeneous mass, sprinkle in boxes or pots and water. When the seeds are laid out, they need to be sprinkled on top with a small amount of sand and covered with a film. The room temperature should be around 18 degrees before sprouts appear. After at least 2 appear, it is necessary to move the containers to a room with a temperature of 13 degrees. The seedlings also need good lighting. With its deficiency, it is impossible to water abundantly and often, one is enough, a maximum of two times in 7 days. When a couple of sheets appear on the sprouts, you can dive.
Before you start seedlings, you need to prepare boxes and soil. They take sand, process it to prevent the occurrence of various diseases, then mix it with peat and soddy soil. In this case, the last two components are taken in a ratio of 1 to 1, and there is a little less sand. Next, you need to mix everything until a homogeneous mass, sprinkle in boxes or pots and water. When the seeds are laid out, they need to be sprinkled on top with a small amount of sand and covered with a film. The room temperature should be around 18 degrees before sprouts appear. After at least 2 appear, it is necessary to move the containers to a room with a temperature of 13 degrees. The seedlings also need good lighting. With its deficiency, it is impossible to water abundantly and often, one is enough, a maximum of two times in 7 days. When a couple of sheets appear on the sprouts, you can dive.
You can plant seedlings in the spring. The depth is 0.5 cm, the soil is fertile. Cover with foil, monitor soil moisture. When they grow up, plant them in separate containers. Plant outdoors when danger of frost has passed. The soil prefers good, fertile, in natural conditions it can be seen more often in deciduous and mixed forests. In a permanent place, you need to create conditions close to natural. The place should not be sunny, but slightly shaded.
Stored seeds are soaked for a day in warm water before sowing. Any seed that does not swell should be carefully pricked with a needle, being careful not to damage the germ, and re-soaked for another 24 hours. Preliminary cold stratification facilitates germination.
Very hardy, thrives on all types of soil. Photophilous. Shoots are more shade-tolerant than adult plants, easily tolerate significant shading. Hardiness zone 6-9 usda.
Seeds are sown in autumn or spring in a cold greenhouse. When grown for seedlings, plants are transplanted to a permanent place in early summer.
Seeds are sown in autumn or spring in a cold greenhouse. When grown for seedlings, plants are transplanted to a permanent place in early summer.
Seeds can be sown immediately in open ground. Depending on the region, they do this from mid-April to the 10th of May. A bed is being prepared for sowing, from where the grown seedlings can be transplanted to a permanent place. Seeds are sown in rows with row spacing of 35–40 cm, the distance between seeds is 5 cm. The prepared groove is filled with a light fertile substrate, the seed is laid out on top, watered with moisture spray. The rows are not covered with soil! The maximum that can be done is to sprinkle with sand. Shoots will appear in about 2 weeks. This process can be accelerated if a covering material, such as lutrasil, is used after sowing. As soon as the first seedlings come out, it is removed. After the final formation of plantings, the distance between the bushes should be at least 25–30 cm.
Propagated by seeds, the plant is early ripening, the seeding rate is 1-1.5 grams per square meter. Sowing to a depth of 0.5 cm in spring in March-April. When the plants reach a height of 5 cm, seedlings are thinned out with a distance of 15-20 cm. Care consists in weeding, loosening, watering and top dressing.
For sideration, sainfoin is sown in early spring, as soon as the top layer of soil on the site warms up to 6-7 ° C, or in autumn, immediately after harvesting the main crops. Late sowing leads to lower yields. On vast areas, green manure is allowed to be grown in a mixture with cereals (barley, oats, wheat). Sainfoin develops well on soils of any type, with the exception of alkaline, acidic and flooded. Responds well to lime application. The technology of the work is as follows: The site is cleared of last year's foliage and plant debris. Loose soil is harrowed or loosened with a rake, dense soil is dug up. Seeds of sainfoin are sown in rows to a depth of 3-5 cm in increments of 15 cm or scattered on the ground. Crops are sprinkled with earth and rolled with a special roller or the back of a garden rake. The consumption of seed material per 1 weave is 500-700 g. At an air temperature of about +1 ... +3 ° C, friendly shoots break out of the ground 10-15 days after sowing.
Cold stratification is required for 3-5 months. Seeding is superficial. The seeds are photosensitive. Seeds are sown in autumn (before winter) in open ground, then they undergo natural stratification there, and germinate together in spring. Seedlings only need to be seated so that they do not interfere with each other. Potentilla seedlings grow rather slowly. Seeds can be sown in the spring (early March) for seedlings.
Seeds are sown before winter, either in the spring in the ground, or in seedlings.
A prerequisite for sowing chamomile seeds is early sowing and moist soil. As soon as the snow melts and the garden bed is ready, we sow chamomile on moist soil. If the soil dries out quickly, you will need to water it. We sow on the surface of the soil, without planting the seeds in the ground.
Seedlings are very small, although the seeds will germinate quickly - in 8-10 days. For a long time the sprouts will be small, do not worry - chamomile shoots are never in a hurry. It will be possible to weed and thin out only when the plants get a little stronger, grow up to 5-7 cm. You need to thin out carefully, the roots are small - you can pull out all the neighboring shoots along the way.
A prerequisite for sowing chamomile seeds is early sowing and moist soil. As soon as the snow melts and the garden bed is ready, we sow chamomile on moist soil. If the soil dries out quickly, you will need to water it. We sow on the surface of the soil, without planting the seeds in the ground.
Seedlings are very small, although the seeds will germinate quickly - in 8-10 days. For a long time the sprouts will be small, do not worry - chamomile shoots are never in a hurry. It will be possible to weed and thin out only when the plants get a little stronger, grow up to 5-7 cm. You need to thin out carefully, the roots are small - you can pull out all the neighboring shoots along the way.
Growing from seeds is perhaps the only way to propagate a medicinal plant. Sowing is carried out in open ground, and the most favorable time for this procedure is considered to be mid-spring and early autumn. The plant is very unpretentious in care, so growing it is a pleasure. When planting a flower in the garden, you need to consider that the navel likes an abundance of sunlight, so you need to choose an open area. The soil should be rocky, with a small amount of sand. The plant is frost tolerant and responds well to soil feeding.
Stratification is not required. Sowing to a depth of 0.5-1 cm.
You can plant sweet clover on any, and even infertile soils, which is a huge plus when growing this crop. The only contraindication is acidic soil. His sweet clover does not tolerate. Before sowing, the soil must be plowed in the fall, and then cultivated and harrowed twice in the spring. After such processing, in order to preserve moisture in the ground, the fields intended for sowing sweet clover are rolled with special rollers. You also need to take into account that the seeds have a fairly dense shell and in order to improve their germination they are scarified. On a large scale, special equipment is used for this - a scarifier; at home, for small plantings, you can use coarse river sand, with which seeds or sandpaper are ground.
The next step in preparing the seeds for sowing will be their treatment with a solution of boron and molybdenum. After that, they need to be subjected to nitraginization with peat nitragin. Planting in the spring is carried out when the soil warms up to at least three degrees. The first shoots begin to appear on the eighteenth day after sowing. They can easily endure small night frosts down to minus five degrees. We also note that the optimal temperature for the growth and development of sweet clover is twenty-five to twenty-seven degrees.
You can plant sweet clover on any, and even infertile soils, which is a huge plus when growing this crop. The only contraindication is acidic soil. His sweet clover does not tolerate. Before sowing, the soil must be plowed in the fall, and then cultivated and harrowed twice in the spring. After such processing, in order to preserve moisture in the ground, the fields intended for sowing sweet clover are rolled with special rollers. You also need to take into account that the seeds have a fairly dense shell and in order to improve their germination they are scarified. On a large scale, special equipment is used for this - a scarifier; at home, for small plantings, you can use coarse river sand, with which seeds or sandpaper are ground.
The next step in preparing the seeds for sowing will be their treatment with a solution of boron and molybdenum. After that, they need to be subjected to nitraginization with peat nitragin. Planting in the spring is carried out when the soil warms up to at least three degrees. The first shoots begin to appear on the eighteenth day after sowing. They can easily endure small night frosts down to minus five degrees. We also note that the optimal temperature for the growth and development of sweet clover is twenty-five to twenty-seven degrees.
Bedstraw is propagated by seeds, which are sown in autumn. Seeds are sown immediately in a permanent place. In the spring, if necessary, the plantings are thinned out. The plant does not require special care. Grows well in light shade, prefers moderately moist, well-drained, acidic soils. Water moderately, avoiding moisture stagnation. The bedstraw does not need feeding, but on nutritious soils it forms lush bushes and large panicles. Resistant to cold, so it winters well without shelter.
Stratification is not required. Sowing to a depth of 0.5 cm.
How to plant sage seeds
To get seedlings, seeds are sown in late February - early March. Previously, they can be disinfected in a 1% solution of potassium permanganate. As a rule, shoots appear after a couple of weeks, and picking can be done as early as the 3rd week.
For quick and effective germination, it is worth pouring expanded clay on the bottom of the box, and on it - a light soil substrate, which is sold in any specialized store. The mixture should fill the entire volume of the box, not reaching the edge of 2 cm. The earth is moistened, covered with glass or plastic wrap and stopped for the night. Sage seeds are very small and can be mixed with coarse sand for easy planting. They are scattered over the surface, lightly pressed down with the palm of your hand, slightly moistened and again covered with glass or film. The box must be kept at a temperature of +20 ... +25 degrees Celsius.
When the first sprouts appear, the box is moved to a sunny place (on the windowsill). If this is not possible, then the seedlings need to be provided with artificial lighting. For young plants, daylight hours should be at least 12 hours.
Watering a very "young" sage should be moderate. Excess water is the cause of rotting of the base of the shoots. If this happens, you need to reduce the amount of liquid, and sprinkle the surface with dry earth. When the seedlings grow up, it is recommended to transplant them into another container.
In areas with a warm climate, sage seeds can be planted immediately in open ground in April. Before that, they must be soaked in a special growth stimulator. In autumn, only dry seeds are planted in the ground. The sowing depth should be 7 cm, the distance between rows should be approximately 40 cm.
Picking and landing in open ground
Sage picking when grown from seeds is done when 2 true leaves appear on a young plant. The sprout is transplanted into a separate container and covered with a paper sheet for 2-3 days. To make the sage grow lush and beautiful, after the formation of the 6th leaf, the top can be pinched. Seedlings are “transported” to a new place of residence as soon as warm weather sets in and frosts pass. Before planting, the soil must be dug up, weeds must be removed. If necessary, humus can be added to the ground. It is better to choose a well-lit area, as sage loves the sun. Seedlings are planted in rows, maintaining a distance between individual individuals of 20-30 cm.
Care
Sage is a rather unpretentious plant, and caring for it involves regular loosening, weeding and top dressing. For the winter, it is better to “wrap” the plant with fallen leaves. In the spring, it is worth cutting off last year's shoots, leaving 10 cm from the root. Watering should be moderate, water stagnation should not be allowed. It is impossible to grow sage from seeds without proper and timely feeding. At the beginning of its “life”, the plant perceives nitrogen fertilizers well: during this period, for example, slurry can be applied to the soil in a ratio of 1:10. When the buds begin to ripen, you can pamper sage with potassium and phosphorus at the rate of 20 g per 1 sq. m.
How to plant sage seeds
To get seedlings, seeds are sown in late February - early March. Previously, they can be disinfected in a 1% solution of potassium permanganate. As a rule, shoots appear after a couple of weeks, and picking can be done as early as the 3rd week.
For quick and effective germination, it is worth pouring expanded clay on the bottom of the box, and on it - a light soil substrate, which is sold in any specialized store. The mixture should fill the entire volume of the box, not reaching the edge of 2 cm. The earth is moistened, covered with glass or plastic wrap and stopped for the night. Sage seeds are very small and can be mixed with coarse sand for easy planting. They are scattered over the surface, lightly pressed down with the palm of your hand, slightly moistened and again covered with glass or film. The box must be kept at a temperature of +20 ... +25 degrees Celsius.
When the first sprouts appear, the box is moved to a sunny place (on the windowsill). If this is not possible, then the seedlings need to be provided with artificial lighting. For young plants, daylight hours should be at least 12 hours.
Watering a very "young" sage should be moderate. Excess water is the cause of rotting of the base of the shoots. If this happens, you need to reduce the amount of liquid, and sprinkle the surface with dry earth. When the seedlings grow up, it is recommended to transplant them into another container.
In areas with a warm climate, sage seeds can be planted immediately in open ground in April. Before that, they must be soaked in a special growth stimulator. In autumn, only dry seeds are planted in the ground. The sowing depth should be 7 cm, the distance between rows should be approximately 40 cm.
Picking and landing in open ground
Sage picking when grown from seeds is done when 2 true leaves appear on a young plant. The sprout is transplanted into a separate container and covered with a paper sheet for 2-3 days. To make the sage grow lush and beautiful, after the formation of the 6th leaf, the top can be pinched. Seedlings are “transported” to a new place of residence as soon as warm weather sets in and frosts pass. Before planting, the soil must be dug up, weeds must be removed. If necessary, humus can be added to the ground. It is better to choose a well-lit area, as sage loves the sun. Seedlings are planted in rows, maintaining a distance between individual individuals of 20-30 cm.
Care
Sage is a rather unpretentious plant, and caring for it involves regular loosening, weeding and top dressing. For the winter, it is better to “wrap” the plant with fallen leaves. In the spring, it is worth cutting off last year's shoots, leaving 10 cm from the root. Watering should be moderate, water stagnation should not be allowed. It is impossible to grow sage from seeds without proper and timely feeding. At the beginning of its “life”, the plant perceives nitrogen fertilizers well: during this period, for example, slurry can be applied to the soil in a ratio of 1:10. When the buds begin to ripen, you can pamper sage with potassium and phosphorus at the rate of 20 g per 1 sq. m.
Ripe seeds of thistle germinate well in autumn at a temperature of 20-30 ° C, but from a shallow depth (1-2 cm). Seeds embedded in the soil to a depth of 5-6 cm do not germinate, but remain viable for up to 7 years.
Perennial umbrella plant up to 1 m tall. Spicy, lettuce, medicinal and honey (June-August) culture. "Substitute" anise. Gives self-seeding. Likes sunny warm places. Stratification is not required. Sowing to a depth of 0.5-1 cm.
Can be sown directly into the ground in May or April in pots for seedlings. Shoots will appear in 8-10 days. With the seedling method, plants grow more powerful and bloom earlier. The distance between plants after thinning or when planting is 20-25 cm. The plant is cold-resistant, relatively shade-tolerant, not demanding on soils, but does not tolerate excess moisture. Large panicles can be obtained in large quantities if the plants are regularly watered in dry, hot weather. before heading also enhance growth and increase plant productivity. Panicles are cut for drying during flowering, placed in a dry room, spread out in a thin layer or hung in bunches.
Vika propagates by seeds, less often by seedlings grown from seeds.
Sowing depending on the goals:
1) In the spring at the beginning of April and until the end of May - in pursuit of the goal of weed control.
2) In the middle of summer in July - early August to meet the need for healthy fodder for livestock in the fall.
3) For the winter at the end of August and the whole month of September to the place where they plan to plant a tomato.
Most often, the wiki is planted in a chaotic manner, scattering over the area with dug up soil, then raking the clods of soil with a rake and thus covering the seeds with earth. But the most suitable planting scheme for a plant is sowing in long rows to a depth of 1.5-2 cm, row-spacing is 10-15 cm, between seeds - 3-10 cm, depending on the variety and species. The growing season ranges from 80 to 120 days. Landing is carried out from mid-April to the end of May. The plant is unpretentious to the choice of soil, but sprouts and grows better in loam, in soil with lime content. Does not like dense and flooded ground. Before planting, the seeds are soaked for about a day in warm water, then the seedlings will be faster and more friendly for 3-4 days.
Sowing depending on the goals:
1) In the spring at the beginning of April and until the end of May - in pursuit of the goal of weed control.
2) In the middle of summer in July - early August to meet the need for healthy fodder for livestock in the fall.
3) For the winter at the end of August and the whole month of September to the place where they plan to plant a tomato.
Most often, the wiki is planted in a chaotic manner, scattering over the area with dug up soil, then raking the clods of soil with a rake and thus covering the seeds with earth. But the most suitable planting scheme for a plant is sowing in long rows to a depth of 1.5-2 cm, row-spacing is 10-15 cm, between seeds - 3-10 cm, depending on the variety and species. The growing season ranges from 80 to 120 days. Landing is carried out from mid-April to the end of May. The plant is unpretentious to the choice of soil, but sprouts and grows better in loam, in soil with lime content. Does not like dense and flooded ground. Before planting, the seeds are soaked for about a day in warm water, then the seedlings will be faster and more friendly for 3-4 days.
There are 3 ways to plant chard:
Early - seedlings. Seedlings are sown in February-March. Hardened plants are planted in a permanent place, after about 6 weeks (second half of April) with an interval of 40-50 × 20-30 cm.
Medium - in April, sown in the ground. Chard seeds are sown directly into the ground, if the weather allows it and there is no risk of frost, sowing can be done in the second half of April. Covering the bed with non-woven material will accelerate the emergence of seedlings, protect small beets from frost. Seeds are easy to sow, so you should try to plant them fairly regularly, at least every 15 cm, it is better to keep a distance of 40 cm.
The second harvest - growing chard for the autumn harvest, the seeds are sown in the ground from July.
When planting seeds in the ground with a shovel holder, we make a small depression, sow the seeds and manually lightly sprinkle with a thin layer of earth. Watering.
After emergence, the plants are thinned out, leaving them in a row every 7-8 cm, then every 20-30 cm, using the uprooted plants for consumption.
Early - seedlings. Seedlings are sown in February-March. Hardened plants are planted in a permanent place, after about 6 weeks (second half of April) with an interval of 40-50 × 20-30 cm.
Medium - in April, sown in the ground. Chard seeds are sown directly into the ground, if the weather allows it and there is no risk of frost, sowing can be done in the second half of April. Covering the bed with non-woven material will accelerate the emergence of seedlings, protect small beets from frost. Seeds are easy to sow, so you should try to plant them fairly regularly, at least every 15 cm, it is better to keep a distance of 40 cm.
The second harvest - growing chard for the autumn harvest, the seeds are sown in the ground from July.
When planting seeds in the ground with a shovel holder, we make a small depression, sow the seeds and manually lightly sprinkle with a thin layer of earth. Watering.
After emergence, the plants are thinned out, leaving them in a row every 7-8 cm, then every 20-30 cm, using the uprooted plants for consumption.
Landing is carried out in the spring (end of April-beginning of May) or no later than September. You should choose a semi-shady or even shady place.
It grows well on moist soils, including waterlogged and excessively wet.
It grows well on moist soils, including waterlogged and excessively wet.
Cucumber grass should be sown in May or November. But some also sow during the summer period, if you do not need to receive flowers or seeds, but only juicy greens are grown. Thus, the sown borage grass will delight with seedlings until the very frost.
Seeds are placed in the ground without prior preparation. The backlog is carried out to a depth of 1.5–3 cm. It is recommended to keep up to 40–45 cm between rows. It is best when there are 3–4 seeds per 1 m2. When seedlings appear (usually after 10–12 days), they should be thinned so that the distance between the seedlings remains 15–20 cm.
If you want to get early greens of borage grass, then you can sow the seeds in pots filled with fertile soil at the end of March, and after 3-4 leaf plates unfold on the seedlings, then borage seedlings are transplanted into open ground. In this case, it is necessary to cover the planted young plants with a transparent plastic film. To obtain a borage crop in late autumn, seeds are sown in August. Sowing seeds in several stages is justified by the fact that growing up, the foliage of the borage becomes brown and rough, it is no longer used in food.
Borage does not require a lot of light, so in the garden it can be placed in the shade under the trees next to the walls, as the foliage will dry out from direct sunlight. At home, the borago is even placed on the windowsill of the north window, and it has enough lighting there in the winter. Any soil is suitable, but it is better when it has fertile qualities and friability, slightly acidic (pH 5–6) or neutral (pH 6.5–7).
Seeds are placed in the ground without prior preparation. The backlog is carried out to a depth of 1.5–3 cm. It is recommended to keep up to 40–45 cm between rows. It is best when there are 3–4 seeds per 1 m2. When seedlings appear (usually after 10–12 days), they should be thinned so that the distance between the seedlings remains 15–20 cm.
If you want to get early greens of borage grass, then you can sow the seeds in pots filled with fertile soil at the end of March, and after 3-4 leaf plates unfold on the seedlings, then borage seedlings are transplanted into open ground. In this case, it is necessary to cover the planted young plants with a transparent plastic film. To obtain a borage crop in late autumn, seeds are sown in August. Sowing seeds in several stages is justified by the fact that growing up, the foliage of the borage becomes brown and rough, it is no longer used in food.
Borage does not require a lot of light, so in the garden it can be placed in the shade under the trees next to the walls, as the foliage will dry out from direct sunlight. At home, the borago is even placed on the windowsill of the north window, and it has enough lighting there in the winter. Any soil is suitable, but it is better when it has fertile qualities and friability, slightly acidic (pH 5–6) or neutral (pH 6.5–7).
Seeds of rush in the form of small granules are planted to obtain seedlings in January-March. They are slightly pressed into moist soil and additionally sprayed with water. Crops are covered with a film to create greenhouse conditions. Until the sprouts appear, you need to constantly monitor the soil moisture and ventilate the greenhouse. After the appearance of the leaves, the film is removed, the picking of the seedlings is carried out when 3-4 leaves are formed.
When growing, you need to take into account the main feature of the rush - the culture is very moisture-loving. In the garden, it is better to plant it in the coastal zone near the water, no deeper than 5 cm. If there are permanent wet places on the site, often flooded, then this is the most suitable place for planting. If there is no source of constant moisture, the rush is placed in a container that is buried in the ground, so the moisture is retained at the roots longer. A win-win option is to grow rush in room conditions, where it takes root better, and transfer it to open ground in the middle of the season. In winter, during severe frosts, it is better to cover the plant with polyethylene, but if the winter is mild, the rush does well even without shelter.
When growing, you need to take into account the main feature of the rush - the culture is very moisture-loving. In the garden, it is better to plant it in the coastal zone near the water, no deeper than 5 cm. If there are permanent wet places on the site, often flooded, then this is the most suitable place for planting. If there is no source of constant moisture, the rush is placed in a container that is buried in the ground, so the moisture is retained at the roots longer. A win-win option is to grow rush in room conditions, where it takes root better, and transfer it to open ground in the middle of the season. In winter, during severe frosts, it is better to cover the plant with polyethylene, but if the winter is mild, the rush does well even without shelter.
In areas with a warm climate, for long-term cultivation, dry fennel seeds are sown in July or August. It is best to sow fennel where there was an accumulation of snow in winter. Keep in mind that the plant is thermophilic and will not grow in the shade. Fennel prefers light sandy or loamy soils. The best predecessors for the plant are annual grasses, as well as winter and tilled crops. When sowing, seeds are buried by 2 cm, and the distance between rows should be at least 60 cm. If sowing is carried out in the spring, in the first decade of April, then after planting the seeds and watering, the area is covered with a film until germination occurs. On the 10th day after the appearance of seedlings, fennel seeds are thinned out so that green varieties are in a row at a distance of 10-15 cm from each other, and vegetables - 20-30 cm. In areas with a harsh climate, it is better to use seedling propagation method culture.
Cold stratification is required for 5-6 months. Seeding is superficial. The seeds are photosensitive.
It is preferable to choose sunny, well-lit areas for it. It will grow on any garden poor soil, but preferably without stagnant moisture.
Sowing is recommended in mid-April, as the plant develops quite quickly. Use light soil that is permeable to air and moisture. Pour it into small boxes in an even layer of 5-8 cm and moisten with a spray bottle. Do not bury the seeds, but gently scatter them over the surface, sprinkle with soil on top with a layer of 1 cm. It is best to make a small greenhouse and close the box with polyethylene. Flax does not like waterlogging.
Shoots will appear in 7-10 days. As soon as the seedlings have the first pair of true leaves, they should be dived into separate pots, about 7 cm in diameter and the same depth. Flax has a strong root system of the rod type, so we recommend not to delay the seating. The further, the more difficult it will be to separate the plants from each other without damaging them.
Sowing is recommended in mid-April, as the plant develops quite quickly. Use light soil that is permeable to air and moisture. Pour it into small boxes in an even layer of 5-8 cm and moisten with a spray bottle. Do not bury the seeds, but gently scatter them over the surface, sprinkle with soil on top with a layer of 1 cm. It is best to make a small greenhouse and close the box with polyethylene. Flax does not like waterlogging.
Shoots will appear in 7-10 days. As soon as the seedlings have the first pair of true leaves, they should be dived into separate pots, about 7 cm in diameter and the same depth. Flax has a strong root system of the rod type, so we recommend not to delay the seating. The further, the more difficult it will be to separate the plants from each other without damaging them.
Stratification is not required. Seeding is superficial. The seeds are photosensitive. The optimal time for sowing seeds is 1-1.5 months before the onset of stable cold weather. When sowing in winter, the seeds are scarified. They are sown with row spacing of 60 cm, planting to a depth of 2.5-3 cm. Care of crops consists in loosening the soil 4-5 times to a depth of 5-8 cm and weeding.
Light and thermophilic, drought-resistant. Prefers well-drained soils.
Chumiza is an annual flower and fodder plant. Chumiza is undemanding to moisture. It grows best on black soil, but it also succeeds on fertile sandy soils and peat bogs. Chumizu is sown when the soil at the seeding depth warms up to + 10-12 degrees. Seeds begin to germinate at plus 10 degrees. I close up the seeds of chumiza to a depth of 3-4 cm. Since the seeds are small, for uniform sowing it is better to mix them with dry river sand. Sowing is carried out in the usual way. Row spacing is 30 cm. Chumiza shoots appear in 7-10 days. Plant care consists of watering, loosening row spacing, thinning, fertilizing, removing weeds. Seedlings develop very slowly at first, so you need to make sure that the soil is cleared of weeds. If the shoots are thickened, timely thinning is carried out, leaving one plant after 3-4 cm. Row spacing is loosened immediately after rain or watering.
Chumiza is an annual flower and fodder plant. Chumiza is undemanding to moisture. It grows best on black soil, but it also succeeds on fertile sandy soils and peat bogs. Chumizu is sown when the soil at the seeding depth warms up to + 10-12 degrees. Seeds begin to germinate at plus 10 degrees. I close up the seeds of chumiza to a depth of 3-4 cm. Since the seeds are small, for uniform sowing it is better to mix them with dry river sand. Sowing is carried out in the usual way. Row spacing is 30 cm. Chumiza shoots appear in 7-10 days. Plant care consists of watering, loosening row spacing, thinning, fertilizing, removing weeds. Seedlings develop very slowly at first, so you need to make sure that the soil is cleared of weeds. If the shoots are thickened, timely thinning is carried out, leaving one plant after 3-4 cm. Row spacing is loosened immediately after rain or watering.
Recommended stratif. at 4° for 3–3.5 months
Planting is best done in the spring - for seed germination, it is necessary to provide a temperature of 20-25 degrees Celsius and a moist substrate.
Terms of sowing gravel:
In greenhouses - gravilate seeds are sown in pots in the fall and stored in greenhouse conditions during the winter, in the spring, with a sufficient level of humidity, they will give a new seedling that can be transplanted into a flower bed.
At home - can be sown in the spring, 8 weeks before the end of frost.
In open ground - from late spring to late summer.
The time for sowing seeds also depends on the expected date of receipt of a flowering plant:
- if we sow seeds in the period from February to May, we will get flowering plants from May to August;
- when sowing seeds from June to August, flowering plants are obtained next year, from April.
Before sowing, before the stratification of seeds, it is necessary to soak them in gibberellic acid. This will improve the germination rate.
Sowing seeds and growing seedlings of gravilata:
As a soil for growing seedlings, you can use a peat substrate with a small clay content (15-30%). The reaction of the substrate should be pH 5.5-6.5. Seeds are best sown in multi-cell cassettes with 2-3 seeds per cell. They are covered with a small amount of vermiculite, which will provide sufficient moisture. The recommended temperature during the germination period is 21-24 ° C, seedlings will appear in 20-30 days. After germination, the temperature should be reduced to 16-18 °C. 3-5 weeks after germination, plants can be dived singly into pots with a diameter of 12-13 cm or 2-3 seedlings into pots with a diameter of more than 15 cm. After planting in pots, it is advisable to maintain the temperature at 12-18 ° C. It is worth adding a multi-component fertilizer with a slow release of nutrients to the substrate at a dose of 1.5-3 kg / m³.
Planting is best done in the spring - for seed germination, it is necessary to provide a temperature of 20-25 degrees Celsius and a moist substrate.
Terms of sowing gravel:
In greenhouses - gravilate seeds are sown in pots in the fall and stored in greenhouse conditions during the winter, in the spring, with a sufficient level of humidity, they will give a new seedling that can be transplanted into a flower bed.
At home - can be sown in the spring, 8 weeks before the end of frost.
In open ground - from late spring to late summer.
The time for sowing seeds also depends on the expected date of receipt of a flowering plant:
- if we sow seeds in the period from February to May, we will get flowering plants from May to August;
- when sowing seeds from June to August, flowering plants are obtained next year, from April.
Before sowing, before the stratification of seeds, it is necessary to soak them in gibberellic acid. This will improve the germination rate.
Sowing seeds and growing seedlings of gravilata:
As a soil for growing seedlings, you can use a peat substrate with a small clay content (15-30%). The reaction of the substrate should be pH 5.5-6.5. Seeds are best sown in multi-cell cassettes with 2-3 seeds per cell. They are covered with a small amount of vermiculite, which will provide sufficient moisture. The recommended temperature during the germination period is 21-24 ° C, seedlings will appear in 20-30 days. After germination, the temperature should be reduced to 16-18 °C. 3-5 weeks after germination, plants can be dived singly into pots with a diameter of 12-13 cm or 2-3 seedlings into pots with a diameter of more than 15 cm. After planting in pots, it is advisable to maintain the temperature at 12-18 ° C. It is worth adding a multi-component fertilizer with a slow release of nutrients to the substrate at a dose of 1.5-3 kg / m³.
Stratification is not required. Seeding is superficial.
Grooves are made in the soil with a depth of 0.5 to 1 cm (or superficially, lightly sprinkled), leaving a distance between rows of at least 50 cm. They are shed with settled water. Lofant seeds are carefully laid out after a certain distance. Fall asleep with a layer of earth of a small thickness. Watering again.
Sprouts appear on the 12-16th day. As soon as young seedlings form 2-3 pairs of true leaves, the plantings are thinned out, trying to keep at least 25 cm between the nearest "neighbors". When planting seeds in the fall, they should be protected as much as possible from the upcoming cold weather. To do this, the beds are mulched with a large layer of compost, spruce branches, straw. Only this natural "insulation" does not need to be tightly packed so that the seeds do not suffocate.
Grooves are made in the soil with a depth of 0.5 to 1 cm (or superficially, lightly sprinkled), leaving a distance between rows of at least 50 cm. They are shed with settled water. Lofant seeds are carefully laid out after a certain distance. Fall asleep with a layer of earth of a small thickness. Watering again.
Sprouts appear on the 12-16th day. As soon as young seedlings form 2-3 pairs of true leaves, the plantings are thinned out, trying to keep at least 25 cm between the nearest "neighbors". When planting seeds in the fall, they should be protected as much as possible from the upcoming cold weather. To do this, the beds are mulched with a large layer of compost, spruce branches, straw. Only this natural "insulation" does not need to be tightly packed so that the seeds do not suffocate.
Before sowing timothy grass, soil preparation is carried out. It is cleared of weeds, cultivated and applied with nitrogen fertilizers or manure. If the seeds are sown in early spring, the soil is harrowed to a depth of 25 cm. It is necessary to consider when to sow timothy grass. This can be done both in spring and autumn. In the first case, sowing is carried out in April, the seeds begin to germinate after 7-8 days. Timothy meadow is sown in a continuous way, standard for cereal crops. The optimal planting depth is 1-2 cm. To obtain seeds, the wide-row method with an interval of at least 50-70 cm is considered the most effective option.
Stratification is not required. Sowing to a depth of 0.5-1 cm.
The plant is relatively cold-resistant, can tolerate short-term light frosts, but a long-term cold snap during germination with an abundance of precipitation causes rotting of plants and their death. The snakehead is photophilous, prefers sunlit areas. If you grow a snakehead in the shade, then its aroma will be significantly lower than in the sun. The plant in the initial period of growth requires a lot of moisture, but tolerates drought during the period of full flowering. However, with a lack of moisture in late June-early July, during the period of intensive growth, a strong decrease in the yield of above-ground mass is observed.
The bed is dug up in the fall and at the same time 15-20 g of superphosphate and 12-15 g of potassium salt per square meter are applied, and when digging in the spring, an additional 10-15 g of nitrogen fertilizers are added. The snakehead seeds are small, they do not need any pre-sowing preparation. In no case should snakehead seeds be soaked in order to speed up germination. When it enters the water, the mucus on their surface swells, and they turn into slippery balls, which, upon further drying, clump into a dense mass that is no longer possible to sow.
The snakehead is sown in the first decade of May to a depth of 0.5-1 cm. It is better to shed the furrows with water before sowing. The distance between the rows is 45-50 cm. Seedlings appear after 10 or 15 days, depending on the weather. Please note that there is no crust in the garden, otherwise you may not wait for the shoots.
The first month and a half, the snakehead grows very slowly: timely weeding and loosening are necessary. But then it develops quickly, and weeds are no longer afraid of it. The plant is not demanding on moisture, however, two or three plentiful waterings in a dry summer will increase the yield and quality of the grass.
The plant is relatively cold-resistant, can tolerate short-term light frosts, but a long-term cold snap during germination with an abundance of precipitation causes rotting of plants and their death. The snakehead is photophilous, prefers sunlit areas. If you grow a snakehead in the shade, then its aroma will be significantly lower than in the sun. The plant in the initial period of growth requires a lot of moisture, but tolerates drought during the period of full flowering. However, with a lack of moisture in late June-early July, during the period of intensive growth, a strong decrease in the yield of above-ground mass is observed.
The bed is dug up in the fall and at the same time 15-20 g of superphosphate and 12-15 g of potassium salt per square meter are applied, and when digging in the spring, an additional 10-15 g of nitrogen fertilizers are added. The snakehead seeds are small, they do not need any pre-sowing preparation. In no case should snakehead seeds be soaked in order to speed up germination. When it enters the water, the mucus on their surface swells, and they turn into slippery balls, which, upon further drying, clump into a dense mass that is no longer possible to sow.
The snakehead is sown in the first decade of May to a depth of 0.5-1 cm. It is better to shed the furrows with water before sowing. The distance between the rows is 45-50 cm. Seedlings appear after 10 or 15 days, depending on the weather. Please note that there is no crust in the garden, otherwise you may not wait for the shoots.
The first month and a half, the snakehead grows very slowly: timely weeding and loosening are necessary. But then it develops quickly, and weeds are no longer afraid of it. The plant is not demanding on moisture, however, two or three plentiful waterings in a dry summer will increase the yield and quality of the grass.
1. You will need forest land. It should be from under an old tree, preferably coniferous. We need mycorrhiza mushrooms, which are part of this land.
2. If it was not possible to stock up on land before sowing, then do it as soon as possible and add it to the soil in which you grow wintergreen.
3. There is one more trick. We spread the seeds on the surface of the soil, sprinkle, cover and put in the refrigerator. Wintergreen seeds need stratification.
4. After a couple of months, you can take out the container and put it in a warm place and in the light.
5. When sprouts appear, remove the lid gradually! Add ten minutes every day.
2. If it was not possible to stock up on land before sowing, then do it as soon as possible and add it to the soil in which you grow wintergreen.
3. There is one more trick. We spread the seeds on the surface of the soil, sprinkle, cover and put in the refrigerator. Wintergreen seeds need stratification.
4. After a couple of months, you can take out the container and put it in a warm place and in the light.
5. When sprouts appear, remove the lid gradually! Add ten minutes every day.
Propagated by seeds - sowing in the spring on the spot. Most seeds usually germinate within a few days of sowing. An easy-to-grow plant that grows well in most soils but does not like shade. Prefers moderately fertile soil. Maintains pH in the range from 4.5 to 8.3. In moderation, this plant is a good companion for potatoes, corn, and cucurbits. The plant reacts directly to the magnesium content of the soil, so it can be used to detect the presence of this element.
Sowing begins at the end of March, as soon as the soil is ripe. The seeds are large enough, so you can plant decorative fescue one seed at a distance of 10-15 cm. Seeding depth is 2-3 cm. Lawn grasses are simply scattered evenly over the surface of the earth and covered with a rake. In the spring, there is enough moisture in the ground for the plants to germinate. But if you want to speed up the process, you can occasionally water the bed, however, avoiding overflow and the formation of an earthen crust. When shoots appear, you need to remove the weeds and loosen the soil. Fescue grows and develops very quickly, so by the end of summer you will get full-fledged bushes.
You can grow fescue through seedlings. To do this, at the end of February, seedlings are prepared, filled with loose earth. Plant 1-2 seeds in each cup and lightly water. The place should be chosen warm and well lit, better south or east windows. Remember that moisture stagnation is unacceptable, so there must be drainage holes in the bottom of the cups, and excess water from the pan must be drained. Plants grow and develop quite quickly. Already in April, provided there are no frosts, fescue seedlings are planted in a flower bed using the transshipment method. The distance between the holes is about 15 cm.
You can grow fescue through seedlings. To do this, at the end of February, seedlings are prepared, filled with loose earth. Plant 1-2 seeds in each cup and lightly water. The place should be chosen warm and well lit, better south or east windows. Remember that moisture stagnation is unacceptable, so there must be drainage holes in the bottom of the cups, and excess water from the pan must be drained. Plants grow and develop quite quickly. Already in April, provided there are no frosts, fescue seedlings are planted in a flower bed using the transshipment method. The distance between the holes is about 15 cm.
Seeds germinate most successfully at temperatures not lower than 30-35°C. After dry storage for 6 months, the seeds acquire the ability to germinate in a wider temperature range. Cold stratification stimulates the germination of dormant seeds. It is better to germinate in open ground, as the seeds germinate for a long time and in a pot can turn sour and deteriorate. Just plant in the ground, water periodically. After two months, sprouts will appear.
Seeds germinate only after prolonged stratification. It is most convenient to sow them before winter, but it is necessary to choose a place where the seeds will not float away in the spring with melt waters.
When grown through seedlings, the seeds are mixed with wet sand or peat and stratified in the refrigerator for 2-3 months. It is better to sow one seed at a time of 3 cm and 5 cm between rows. The seeds should be sprinkled with a layer of soil no more than 1 cm, moistened and covered with film, placed in a warm place where the temperature is +20-25C. Ventilate regularly, do not allow the soil to dry out or become sour from dampness! When seedlings appear, move the boxes to a cooler place, where it is about +16-20C and very light.
You can plant seedlings at the end of May, when the threat of spring frosts has passed.
The shoots of decorative onions are as thin as the shoots of onions grown from nigella. In the first year, only a tiny bulb is formed, no more than 0.5 cm in diameter. Next year it will produce only one true leaf. Plant development is very slow.
Ornamental onions grown from seeds bloom in the 3-5th year.
Subsequently, to obtain large flower heads, it is worth adding complex mineral fertilizer or wood ash to the soil when planting; it contains potassium, the most important nutrient for onions.
When grown through seedlings, the seeds are mixed with wet sand or peat and stratified in the refrigerator for 2-3 months. It is better to sow one seed at a time of 3 cm and 5 cm between rows. The seeds should be sprinkled with a layer of soil no more than 1 cm, moistened and covered with film, placed in a warm place where the temperature is +20-25C. Ventilate regularly, do not allow the soil to dry out or become sour from dampness! When seedlings appear, move the boxes to a cooler place, where it is about +16-20C and very light.
You can plant seedlings at the end of May, when the threat of spring frosts has passed.
The shoots of decorative onions are as thin as the shoots of onions grown from nigella. In the first year, only a tiny bulb is formed, no more than 0.5 cm in diameter. Next year it will produce only one true leaf. Plant development is very slow.
Ornamental onions grown from seeds bloom in the 3-5th year.
Subsequently, to obtain large flower heads, it is worth adding complex mineral fertilizer or wood ash to the soil when planting; it contains potassium, the most important nutrient for onions.
Stratification is not required. Sowing to a depth of 0.5 cm.
Stratification is not required. Sowing to a depth of 0.5-1 cm.
Seeds can be sown in open ground in April-May, or you can first grow hyssop seedlings, for which seeds are sown without prior stratification in seedlings with fertile soil in the first half of March, in grooves located at a distance of 5-10 cm from each other. Contain crops covered with transparent plastic wrap in a warm place. Shoots appear in a couple of weeks. Care for hyssop during the seedling period consists in regular moistening of the soil and top dressing. At the development stage, seedlings have 5-6 true leaves, they are planted in open ground, but two weeks before planting, the seedlings are hardened, exposing them to the open air daily. At first, the hardening session lasts no more than half an hour, but gradually the duration of such “walks” increases until the seed hyssop can stay in the new environment for a whole day. In one place, hyssop can grow up to 10 years, so you need to choose a site for the plant responsibly. Hyssop loves the sun and moderately moist, well-drained calcareous soil, into which, in advance, in the fall, manure, potash salt and a little superphosphate are added for deep digging. Salt and swampy areas, as well as those where groundwater is too close to the surface, are unsuitable for the plant. Hyssop is planted in open ground at the age of 45-60 days in the second half of May, when the threat of return frosts has passed. Hyssop is planted in loose soil in increments of 8-10 cm with row spacing of 25-30 cm. After planting, the area is watered.
Seeds can be sown in open ground in April-May, or you can first grow hyssop seedlings, for which seeds are sown without prior stratification in seedlings with fertile soil in the first half of March, in grooves located at a distance of 5-10 cm from each other. Contain crops covered with transparent plastic wrap in a warm place. Shoots appear in a couple of weeks. Care for hyssop during the seedling period consists in regular moistening of the soil and top dressing. At the development stage, seedlings have 5-6 true leaves, they are planted in open ground, but two weeks before planting, the seedlings are hardened, exposing them to the open air daily. At first, the hardening session lasts no more than half an hour, but gradually the duration of such “walks” increases until the seed hyssop can stay in the new environment for a whole day. In one place, hyssop can grow up to 10 years, so you need to choose a site for the plant responsibly. Hyssop loves the sun and moderately moist, well-drained calcareous soil, into which, in advance, in the fall, manure, potash salt and a little superphosphate are added for deep digging. Salt and swampy areas, as well as those where groundwater is too close to the surface, are unsuitable for the plant. Hyssop is planted in open ground at the age of 45-60 days in the second half of May, when the threat of return frosts has passed. Hyssop is planted in loose soil in increments of 8-10 cm with row spacing of 25-30 cm. After planting, the area is watered.
Perennial ryegrass is grown from seeds that are sown directly in open ground. Before planting, you need to prepare the site. Remove weeds and large stones, dig up the soil so that it has time to settle before sowing. Shortly before sowing, it is required to additionally compact the soil and level the surface. Immediately after the snow melts, it is necessary to loosen the soil to retain moisture; seeds are best applied to moist soil; from fertilizers for ryegrass it is better to choose phosphorus and potash.
After light loosening, the seed is evenly distributed over the sown area, no further processing is required. In regions with a cool climate, it will not be superfluous to harrow the site and deepen the seeds by 2-3 cm. Shoots appear after 7-8 days, but may appear 2-4 days later if the weather is dry or cold.
After light loosening, the seed is evenly distributed over the sown area, no further processing is required. In regions with a cool climate, it will not be superfluous to harrow the site and deepen the seeds by 2-3 cm. Shoots appear after 7-8 days, but may appear 2-4 days later if the weather is dry or cold.
Most often, marjoram is grown in seedlings, since small seeds of the plant may not germinate in open ground. Marjoram seeds, previously mixed with dry sand in a ratio of 1:5, are sown in early April in seedling boxes with a substrate of humus and soddy soil in a ratio of 1:2 with the addition of crushed chalk. Grooves in a well-moistened substrate are placed at a distance of 4-5 cm from each other, and the seeds are planted to a depth of 2-3 mm, sprinkled with dry earth through a sieve. Crops covered with glass or a film dome are placed at a temperature of 20-22 ºC in anticipation of germination, and when sprouts appear in about two to three weeks, the cover is removed, the temperature is lowered to 12-16 ºC for a week, and then such a temperature regime is set : during the day 18-20 ºC, at night - 14-16 ºC. From the moment the seedlings emerge, marjoram is watered at home as needed, so that the substrate is always in a slightly damp state, the soil is loosened from time to time. When the seedlings develop a pair of first true leaves in early May, the seedlings dive according to the 5x5 or 6x6 cm pattern into a warm greenhouse or greenhouse. There they grow up to transplant to the garden. But if you managed to sow the seeds with a good pitch, picking the seedlings may not be necessary. A week and a half before planting in open ground, the seedlings are hardened, removing the film for some time every day so that the seedlings get used to the environment in which they will soon find themselves. The duration of the hardening procedures is increased daily until the seedlings can spend in the fresh air around the clock. The number of waterings during hardening is also gradually reduced.
Salvia red perennial blooms when it reaches the age of 2-3 months after sowing the seeds. Therefore, a plant is planted in early March or late February in order to decorate your front garden with beautiful flowering bushes by the beginning of summer. Growing salvia requires seeds and nutrient soil. Germination of seeds is quite high, lasts up to 4-5 years. Since planting material does not need stratification, their preparation is carried out just before sowing.
Stratification is not required. Seeding is superficial. Reproduction by seeds is carried out directly in open ground in autumn or sown on seedlings in early spring. Before the onset of significant cooling, a bed is prepared, it is carefully leveled and grooves are made at a distance of 15 cm from one another. It is advisable to leave at least 5 cm between the seeds laid out at the bottom of the grooves. The crops are covered with earth and mulched with humus from above. If, nevertheless, the seedlings that appeared in the spring turn out to be thick, you will have to thin them out: pull out the weak ones, and leave the stronger ones. For seedlings, seeds are sown in containers at the end of February or in early March. For crops, a soil mixture is prepared from garden soil and sand, taken in equal parts. The distance between adjacent seeds is maintained up to 3 cm. The seeds are not deeply buried. Crops are covered with plastic wrap on top, the containers are transferred to a warm and moderately lit place. Air them regularly and spray the soil. When 2 true leaves are formed at the sprouting shoots, the seedlings, together with a lump of earth, are transferred into separate pots and grown to a size of 10-12 cm.
Gentian is sown in open ground at the end of April or at the end of September. If you are going to sow gentian seeds in the ground in the spring, they must first be stratified for 2-3 months at a temperature not exceeding 7 ˚C in good ventilation. Seeds of some species are sufficient for stratification at low temperature and one month, but seed material of highland species must be subjected to stratification for at least 60-80 days. Before being placed in the vegetable box of the refrigerator, the seeds are mixed with granulated peat or fine sand in a ratio of 1:3. If you are sowing gentian seeds before winter, then you do not need to stratify them, as they will be processed by low temperatures during the winter months in a natural way. Small seeds are scattered over the surface of the leveled earth and only slightly pressed against the soil, without being embedded in it. It is advisable to still sprinkle large seeds on top of the earth. When planting seedlings grown in seedlings at home, place them at a distance of 15-30 cm from each other. After planting, do not forget to water the area. In one place, gentian has been growing for seven or more years.
The seeds are stratified: wrapped in damp sphagnum or moss, placed in a closed plastic bag, put in the refrigerator for 30-40 days.
The seeds are distributed over the surface of the prepared moistened soil (sphagnum and quartz sand in a ratio of 2:1), slightly moistened, covered with film and placed in a well-lit place (from +24C to +30C). It is necessary to remove the film daily for ventilation and monitor the soil moisture.
The first shoots should appear in about 3-4 weeks. As the seedlings grow, they are gradually accustomed to the environment, increasing the duration of ventilation. A month after germination, remove the film.
When the plants grow a little, they are carefully transplanted into separate pots up to 10 cm in diameter.
The seeds are distributed over the surface of the prepared moistened soil (sphagnum and quartz sand in a ratio of 2:1), slightly moistened, covered with film and placed in a well-lit place (from +24C to +30C). It is necessary to remove the film daily for ventilation and monitor the soil moisture.
The first shoots should appear in about 3-4 weeks. As the seedlings grow, they are gradually accustomed to the environment, increasing the duration of ventilation. A month after germination, remove the film.
When the plants grow a little, they are carefully transplanted into separate pots up to 10 cm in diameter.
Before sowing, the seeds need to be treated by holding them in a gauze bag in a thick pink solution of potassium permanganate for 20 minutes, or in a fungicide solution (Maxim, Fitosporin, Vitaros), following the instructions. For more friendly germination of seeds, they can be held for 12 hours in a solution of Epin (1-2 drops per 100 g of water).
Sowing: fill the sowing bowl with the prepared soil mixture, compact it a little. Evenly distribute the seeds over the soil surface. Cover with a 1 cm layer of soil mixture on top and compact again so that the soil does not wash away during watering and the seeds do not float to the surface. Cover the bowl with a bag and place it in a bright place. At a temperature of +15…+20°C, shoots appear in 7-8 days. After the shoots appear, the cover must be removed. Make sure that the soil in the bowl does not dry out.
After 2-3 true leaves appear, you need to start picking the seedlings.
Two weeks before planting the seedlings, start hardening them. They are planted in the ground after the frosts have ended.
Sowing: fill the sowing bowl with the prepared soil mixture, compact it a little. Evenly distribute the seeds over the soil surface. Cover with a 1 cm layer of soil mixture on top and compact again so that the soil does not wash away during watering and the seeds do not float to the surface. Cover the bowl with a bag and place it in a bright place. At a temperature of +15…+20°C, shoots appear in 7-8 days. After the shoots appear, the cover must be removed. Make sure that the soil in the bowl does not dry out.
After 2-3 true leaves appear, you need to start picking the seedlings.
Two weeks before planting the seedlings, start hardening them. They are planted in the ground after the frosts have ended.
Stratification is not required. Sowing to a depth of 0.5 cm.
Light-loving, but can grow in partial shade. In one place, it can grow up to eight to ten years, but this plant is most useful in the first three years.
Planting tarragon for seedlings is best done in February. Before this, the seeds are soaked for 3-4 days in water. The most optimal water temperature is room temperature. To make the seeds germinate faster, you can use special growth stimulants. There are no special land requirements for this growing method. It should pass moisture, air well and dry quickly. Tarragon does not tolerate excess water. Special holes in the bottom of the container will help protect the roots from rot (excess moisture will come out through them) and small pebbles (thin layer of 1 - 2 cm). Sow seeds on the surface of the earth. No holes or grooves are needed. It is enough just to sprinkle them a little with earth. A dense layer of soil on top will seriously slow down germination. When watering a lot of water is not required. It is impossible for the grains to sink deep into the soil. Before the first shoots appear, it is enough to moisten the ground with a spray bottle. Close the crops with pieces of film or ordinary bags. Choose a warm (+15° - +18°) and bright place.
With the advent of the first sprouts, the film is removed. This will take at least 14 days. When two fully formed leaves appear, they begin to dive. As soon as warm spring days are established, the seedlings are transferred to open ground. Plants are resistant to short frosts.
Tarragon is a hardy plant. Often the seeds are planted directly in open ground. High germination will be only in those regions where there is fertile black soil. This plant is cold tolerant. Therefore, many are interested in how to sow tarragon on the site. This should be done in early spring or autumn. When seeds are sown immediately in the garden, small grooves are made, the soil is watered, planting material is planted and a little sprinkled with earth. Shoots are expected if the temperature outside is kept within + 18 ° - + 20 °. This mode is not typical for all regions. Therefore, experienced gardeners are advised to use the seedling method of growing.
Planting tarragon for seedlings is best done in February. Before this, the seeds are soaked for 3-4 days in water. The most optimal water temperature is room temperature. To make the seeds germinate faster, you can use special growth stimulants. There are no special land requirements for this growing method. It should pass moisture, air well and dry quickly. Tarragon does not tolerate excess water. Special holes in the bottom of the container will help protect the roots from rot (excess moisture will come out through them) and small pebbles (thin layer of 1 - 2 cm). Sow seeds on the surface of the earth. No holes or grooves are needed. It is enough just to sprinkle them a little with earth. A dense layer of soil on top will seriously slow down germination. When watering a lot of water is not required. It is impossible for the grains to sink deep into the soil. Before the first shoots appear, it is enough to moisten the ground with a spray bottle. Close the crops with pieces of film or ordinary bags. Choose a warm (+15° - +18°) and bright place.
With the advent of the first sprouts, the film is removed. This will take at least 14 days. When two fully formed leaves appear, they begin to dive. As soon as warm spring days are established, the seedlings are transferred to open ground. Plants are resistant to short frosts.
Tarragon is a hardy plant. Often the seeds are planted directly in open ground. High germination will be only in those regions where there is fertile black soil. This plant is cold tolerant. Therefore, many are interested in how to sow tarragon on the site. This should be done in early spring or autumn. When seeds are sown immediately in the garden, small grooves are made, the soil is watered, planting material is planted and a little sprinkled with earth. Shoots are expected if the temperature outside is kept within + 18 ° - + 20 °. This mode is not typical for all regions. Therefore, experienced gardeners are advised to use the seedling method of growing.
Both of these crops will not be difficult to grow. In the conditions of the Non-Black Earth Region, the indau and the two-row can be sown at several times: every 10–15 days. But the amount of harvest will be different.
Seeds are sown to a depth of 1–1.5 cm, placing rows every 30–40 cm. On the fifth or sixth day, shoots appear, they are thinned out, leaving a distance between plants of 7–10 cm. This should not be neglected, since with a rarer or In dense planting, the yield of green leaves in both the Indau and the two-rower is noticeably reduced. And after two weeks, you can already pluck the first green leaves. Before the formation of peduncles, most of the plants are cut off, the ripeness phase begins at the moment the first flowering shoots appear.
Caring for these plants is also simple: loosening, weeding, watering. Indau and double-rowed plants are light and moisture-loving: when watered, the leaves become larger and more tender, less bitter. In hot dry weather, combined with a long daylight hours, indau and double-row bloom quickly.
As you can see, basically everything is the same. Except for one thing: the double-rower is capable of growing back after cutting the leaves, that is, greenery can be obtained from its bush throughout the summer.
Seeds are sown to a depth of 1–1.5 cm, placing rows every 30–40 cm. On the fifth or sixth day, shoots appear, they are thinned out, leaving a distance between plants of 7–10 cm. This should not be neglected, since with a rarer or In dense planting, the yield of green leaves in both the Indau and the two-rower is noticeably reduced. And after two weeks, you can already pluck the first green leaves. Before the formation of peduncles, most of the plants are cut off, the ripeness phase begins at the moment the first flowering shoots appear.
Caring for these plants is also simple: loosening, weeding, watering. Indau and double-rowed plants are light and moisture-loving: when watered, the leaves become larger and more tender, less bitter. In hot dry weather, combined with a long daylight hours, indau and double-row bloom quickly.
As you can see, basically everything is the same. Except for one thing: the double-rower is capable of growing back after cutting the leaves, that is, greenery can be obtained from its bush throughout the summer.
Stratification is not required. Sowing to a depth of 0.5-1 cm. It is grown in seedling and seedless culture. Prefers well-structured, humus-rich soils. Needs regular watering.
Stratification is not required. Sowing to a depth of 0.5 cm.
Sowing in spring or before winter. Seeds germinate at a temperature of 7-8 ° C, seedlings appear after 18-25 days. Cumin is demanding on soil and air moisture and is undemanding to heat. Winter-hardy. Seedlings easily tolerate frosts, and in the rosette phase, plants overwinter well. Cumin is picky about light. Prefers chernozem, sandy loamy and light loamy soils with a sufficient content of humus. Responsive to organic and mineral fertilizers.
Seeds need stratif. at 5° for 2-6 months
Meadowsweet seeds need natural stratification and hardening. That is why it is recommended to sow them before winter. To begin with, from the site selected for sowing, you need to remove all weeds, after which it is moistened. The seeds of this plant are highly photosensitive. In this regard, they are recommended to be sown in a shady place (not in the shade). Later, grown seedlings can be planted in a permanent place.
Planting depth - 1 cm. The distance between the seeds is 5-7 cm. Thanks to such a rare planting, young plants will be able to grow and develop within the normal range, without interfering with each other.
The first seedlings should appear already in the second half of April or in the first - May. They are very slow growing. As a rule, by the end of the season, up to five leaf plates are formed on each bush. In this form, they hibernate under the snow. For the first time, the bushes will bloom only in the second or third year of growth. In the event that the plant is in unsuitable conditions for growth, then it can bloom much later.
If desired, sowing seeds can be carried out in the spring. Before sowing, seed material needs to be prepared. To do this, it is immersed for some time in a solution of a growth stimulator, for example, Novosil or Zircon. Crops need timely and proper moisture, as well as shading, which can be artificial or natural. But even if you do everything right, be prepared for the fact that the seeds will not germinate during spring sowing. Or is it necessary to stratify the seeds at home before planting in the spring.
If you still decide to sow the meadowsweet in the spring, then keep in mind that the bushes that appear will grow extremely slowly, and their first flowering will come no earlier than the third or fourth year of growth. Therefore, despite the fact that you sow the meadowsweet in the spring, it will bloom much later than the bushes that have grown after the winter sowing.
Meadowsweet seeds need natural stratification and hardening. That is why it is recommended to sow them before winter. To begin with, from the site selected for sowing, you need to remove all weeds, after which it is moistened. The seeds of this plant are highly photosensitive. In this regard, they are recommended to be sown in a shady place (not in the shade). Later, grown seedlings can be planted in a permanent place.
Planting depth - 1 cm. The distance between the seeds is 5-7 cm. Thanks to such a rare planting, young plants will be able to grow and develop within the normal range, without interfering with each other.
The first seedlings should appear already in the second half of April or in the first - May. They are very slow growing. As a rule, by the end of the season, up to five leaf plates are formed on each bush. In this form, they hibernate under the snow. For the first time, the bushes will bloom only in the second or third year of growth. In the event that the plant is in unsuitable conditions for growth, then it can bloom much later.
If desired, sowing seeds can be carried out in the spring. Before sowing, seed material needs to be prepared. To do this, it is immersed for some time in a solution of a growth stimulator, for example, Novosil or Zircon. Crops need timely and proper moisture, as well as shading, which can be artificial or natural. But even if you do everything right, be prepared for the fact that the seeds will not germinate during spring sowing. Or is it necessary to stratify the seeds at home before planting in the spring.
If you still decide to sow the meadowsweet in the spring, then keep in mind that the bushes that appear will grow extremely slowly, and their first flowering will come no earlier than the third or fourth year of growth. Therefore, despite the fact that you sow the meadowsweet in the spring, it will bloom much later than the bushes that have grown after the winter sowing.
To get flowering bushes in June and enjoy their beauty longer, the seeds are sown for seedlings in mid-March. Light and heat (22 degrees and above) are very important for young plants. The soil for seedlings is selected light, preferably without the addition of peat, which reduces the germination of seeds. Therefore, it is better to use turf and leaf soil with the addition of ¼ of the washed sand.
The capacity for planting is chosen wide, with drainage holes. Fine expanded clay or gravel, up to 1 cm high, must be poured at the bottom of the pot. This is due to the fact that purslane tolerates a lack of moisture more easily than its excess, for proper circulation in the container there must be good drainage. The sequence of actions for growing seedlings: Pour the earth into a container and moisten well with rain or melt water. If there is none, then you can use water that has previously settled. Purslane seeds are small, like a poppy seed, they are sown so that the distance between them is 1 cm, slightly pressed into the soil to a depth of 0.5 cm. The pot is covered with foil on top and placed in a warm place, with a temperature of at least 22 degrees, but better - 30 degrees. It is desirable that the pot was in the light. When condensation accumulates on the film, it is necessary to ventilate the greenhouse at least once a day. The first shoots of purslane may appear as early as 7 days. Usually purslane rises together, it is immediately moved to a sunny and warm window sill, the film is removed. Grown seedlings with 1-2 real leaves dive into individual pots. The earth can be sprinkled to the cotyledon leaves. To grow strong purslane seedlings, you need to provide it with an abundance of sunlight, heat and moisture, otherwise it will stretch. You can illuminate the seedlings in the morning, in the evening, and in cloudy weather - all day. Well-growing seedlings require fertilizing at least once a week. At this stage of growth, you can use a universal mineral fertilizer.
Grown seedlings are planted in a permanent place after the threat of return frosts. The air temperature at night should be more than 10 degrees Celsius. In central Russia, this is the end of May and the beginning of June, in more northern regions - after June 12, and in the south of Russia - in early May. Be sure to harden off the purslane seedlings a week before planting in the ground and accustom them to the sun.
The capacity for planting is chosen wide, with drainage holes. Fine expanded clay or gravel, up to 1 cm high, must be poured at the bottom of the pot. This is due to the fact that purslane tolerates a lack of moisture more easily than its excess, for proper circulation in the container there must be good drainage. The sequence of actions for growing seedlings: Pour the earth into a container and moisten well with rain or melt water. If there is none, then you can use water that has previously settled. Purslane seeds are small, like a poppy seed, they are sown so that the distance between them is 1 cm, slightly pressed into the soil to a depth of 0.5 cm. The pot is covered with foil on top and placed in a warm place, with a temperature of at least 22 degrees, but better - 30 degrees. It is desirable that the pot was in the light. When condensation accumulates on the film, it is necessary to ventilate the greenhouse at least once a day. The first shoots of purslane may appear as early as 7 days. Usually purslane rises together, it is immediately moved to a sunny and warm window sill, the film is removed. Grown seedlings with 1-2 real leaves dive into individual pots. The earth can be sprinkled to the cotyledon leaves. To grow strong purslane seedlings, you need to provide it with an abundance of sunlight, heat and moisture, otherwise it will stretch. You can illuminate the seedlings in the morning, in the evening, and in cloudy weather - all day. Well-growing seedlings require fertilizing at least once a week. At this stage of growth, you can use a universal mineral fertilizer.
Grown seedlings are planted in a permanent place after the threat of return frosts. The air temperature at night should be more than 10 degrees Celsius. In central Russia, this is the end of May and the beginning of June, in more northern regions - after June 12, and in the south of Russia - in early May. Be sure to harden off the purslane seedlings a week before planting in the ground and accustom them to the sun.
When thinking about when to plant alfalfa in the spring, it is worth deciding on the purpose of cultivation. If the crop is grown for hay, alfalfa can be sown in the spring. The recommended time for sowing alfalfa during this period is March 10–20. The plant is resistant to cold and frost.
In other cases, it is better to sow the seeds in early May. To increase seed germination, it is important to ensure abundant watering of planting material. Before sowing, the seed is prepared by grinding it with sand, placing it in water for 24 hours and drying it thoroughly. Do not neglect the preparatory work - thanks to them, the sprouts will appear much faster. In the case of sowing alfalfa in the fall, it is worth taking care of the advance preparation of the soil. Acidic soil must be limed. Also, the soil needs to be dug to a depth of 30 cm and fertilized.
In other cases, it is better to sow the seeds in early May. To increase seed germination, it is important to ensure abundant watering of planting material. Before sowing, the seed is prepared by grinding it with sand, placing it in water for 24 hours and drying it thoroughly. Do not neglect the preparatory work - thanks to them, the sprouts will appear much faster. In the case of sowing alfalfa in the fall, it is worth taking care of the advance preparation of the soil. Acidic soil must be limed. Also, the soil needs to be dug to a depth of 30 cm and fertilized.
Stratification is not required. Sowing to a depth of 0.5-1 cm.
Seeds are sown in spring or before winter with a depth of 1-1.5 cm, according to 60x20 schemes. Seeds germinate in 2 weeks. It is possible to grow through seedlings. The plant is frost-resistant, hibernates without shelter, prefers sunny places and light soils rich enough in organic matter.
Seeds are sown in spring or before winter with a depth of 1-1.5 cm, according to 60x20 schemes. Seeds germinate in 2 weeks. It is possible to grow through seedlings. The plant is frost-resistant, hibernates without shelter, prefers sunny places and light soils rich enough in organic matter.
Stratification is not required. Seeding is superficial.
Frost-resistant plant, winters well in open ground. Prefers moderately moist, light and fertile soils. You can grow lemon balm with seeds in open ground at almost any time: in spring, summer or before winter; through seedlings, cuttings and dividing the bush - in the spring. Sowing for seedlings in March - April, planting in the ground from the end of May. The planting scheme is 30x40 cm. The collection of green mass begins from the second year of plant development, making two or three cuts of young shoots along with leaves per season before flowering. Care consists of loosening, weeding, watering and thinning if necessary. In one place it is grown for 3-5 years.
Frost-resistant plant, winters well in open ground. Prefers moderately moist, light and fertile soils. You can grow lemon balm with seeds in open ground at almost any time: in spring, summer or before winter; through seedlings, cuttings and dividing the bush - in the spring. Sowing for seedlings in March - April, planting in the ground from the end of May. The planting scheme is 30x40 cm. The collection of green mass begins from the second year of plant development, making two or three cuts of young shoots along with leaves per season before flowering. Care consists of loosening, weeding, watering and thinning if necessary. In one place it is grown for 3-5 years.
Stratification is not required. Seeding is superficial. The seeds are photosensitive.
Seeds are sown in spring in a wet mixture of peat and sand. Seedlings are kept at a temperature of at least 20°C. The ideal temperature range for growing is 18 - 22°C throughout the year. It does not have a dormant period and does not like extreme heat. Shade the plants during the daytime in summer and spring, in the morning and in the evening the foxtail will be happy to bathe in the sun. Foxtail is very easy to grow indoors, and beginner growers can handle this task. Trim back flower stalks after wilting and remove old, dry leaves to maintain an attractive, neat appearance.
Stratification is not required. Sowing to a depth of 0.5-1 cm.
It is better to start growing milk thistle from seeds from late April to mid-May. In the middle lane, the crop is grown as an annual.
The place of sowing is recommended to be insulated with foil. The plant blooms 45-50 days after germination. Seeds are collected after 110-120 days. If desired, the seeds can be planted in early June, so that the plant decorates the site in autumn. In the process of sowing, the seeds are placed in depressions having a height of 0.5-1 cm. The first shoots can be observed after 8-12 days. Milk thistle rises unevenly.
It is better to start growing milk thistle from seeds from late April to mid-May. In the middle lane, the crop is grown as an annual.
The place of sowing is recommended to be insulated with foil. The plant blooms 45-50 days after germination. Seeds are collected after 110-120 days. If desired, the seeds can be planted in early June, so that the plant decorates the site in autumn. In the process of sowing, the seeds are placed in depressions having a height of 0.5-1 cm. The first shoots can be observed after 8-12 days. Milk thistle rises unevenly.
Stratification is not required. Sowing to a depth of 0.5 cm.
Savory is sown in open ground in early spring, in rows every 20-30 cm. Seedlings are thinned out, leaving plants in a row after 15-20 cm. Plant care consists in weeding weeds and loosening the soil. Watering is moderate.
You can grow savory and seedlings. To obtain seedlings, savory seeds are sown at the end of April in boxes. Shoots appear in 10-12 days. In May, they are planted in rows with a distance of 40-50 cm between plants and 15-20 cm in a row.
You can grow savory and seedlings. To obtain seedlings, savory seeds are sown at the end of April in boxes. Shoots appear in 10-12 days. In May, they are planted in rows with a distance of 40-50 cm between plants and 15-20 cm in a row.
Seeds should be sown in a box under glass. Seeds can be mixed with sand to make it easier to sow. It can be scattered on the surface of the substrate and only slightly covered with the remains of the earth from above, by half a centimeter. Seedlings appear very small and grow slowly, slowly, poorly developed.
A little later they are thinned out, leaving the strongest plants.
When the first two true leaves appear, they can be carefully picked into separate containers. It is necessary to plant seedlings in open ground already in the summer, observing a distance between plants of 20-30 cm, the cat's paw grows quickly, and such a plant will bloom in a year.
A little later they are thinned out, leaving the strongest plants.
When the first two true leaves appear, they can be carefully picked into separate containers. It is necessary to plant seedlings in open ground already in the summer, observing a distance between plants of 20-30 cm, the cat's paw grows quickly, and such a plant will bloom in a year.
Sowing seeds is done in autumn and spring. Before sowing, they dig up the site chosen for this crop, level it with a rake, remove lumps, and make a ridge. Seeds are evenly distributed over the surface of the soil and covered with a thin layer of earth on top.
Barley is photophilous, but can grow in partial shade. In well-lit places it grows strongly, forming dense, dense tussocks. Grows well on any garden soil, including poor and damp. Does not need supplements.
Barley is photophilous, but can grow in partial shade. In well-lit places it grows strongly, forming dense, dense tussocks. Grows well on any garden soil, including poor and damp. Does not need supplements.
Stratification is not required. Sowing to a depth of 0.5 cm.
Stratification is not required. Seeding is superficial. The seeds are photosensitive.
All seeds need to be filled with a solution of water and a growth stimulator for a day.
After that, the swollen seeds must be dried on a napkin (about 1.5 hours). Next, using tweezers, plant in a seedling box or in open ground and sprinkle with earth. You need to water the earth carefully, preferably with a spray bottle or a small watering can. In order to retain moisture longer, the landing sites are covered with polyethylene and left until the first shoots appear. Only after that the film is removed. It is best to plant the initial letter in the fall. Then in the spring it gives strong shoots. September - October are the most optimal for sowing.
All seeds need to be filled with a solution of water and a growth stimulator for a day.
After that, the swollen seeds must be dried on a napkin (about 1.5 hours). Next, using tweezers, plant in a seedling box or in open ground and sprinkle with earth. You need to water the earth carefully, preferably with a spray bottle or a small watering can. In order to retain moisture longer, the landing sites are covered with polyethylene and left until the first shoots appear. Only after that the film is removed. It is best to plant the initial letter in the fall. Then in the spring it gives strong shoots. September - October are the most optimal for sowing.
The easiest way to propagate a hawk is by seeds. They are sown before frosts directly on the bed. In winter, they undergo natural stratification. They give friendly shoots in the spring. After 3 weeks, young seedlings dive to a permanent place, setting a distance between plants of 20-30 cm.
Stratification is not required. Sowing to a depth of 0.5-1 cm.
Flowering: April to August. Landing: sowing seeds in open ground - in early spring. Lighting: bright sunlight or partial shade. Soil: moist and nutritious. Watering: only during a prolonged drought. Top dressing: full mineral fertilizer before budding, although this is not necessary. Reproduction: seed. Pests: cruciferous fleas. Diseases: powdery mildew. Properties: is a medicinal plant with wound healing, vasodilating, hemostatic, astringent, anti-inflammatory, diuretic, anti-febrile action.
Flowering: April to August. Landing: sowing seeds in open ground - in early spring. Lighting: bright sunlight or partial shade. Soil: moist and nutritious. Watering: only during a prolonged drought. Top dressing: full mineral fertilizer before budding, although this is not necessary. Reproduction: seed. Pests: cruciferous fleas. Diseases: powdery mildew. Properties: is a medicinal plant with wound healing, vasodilating, hemostatic, astringent, anti-inflammatory, diuretic, anti-febrile action.
Stratification is not required. Sowing to a depth of 0.5-1 cm.
In open soil, the eryngium is sown before winter. Sowing is standard, on a prepared and leveled bed, in grooves, sparse. It is better to sow the eryngium according to the same principle as the rest of the perennials: after persistent cold sets in and the soil freezes in the upper layer. For the winter, there is no need to protect the eryngium crops with additional shelter.
For seedlings, the plant is sown in February or March. The surface of the substrate is leveled and moistened, the seeds are rarely scattered, and then they are covered with a thin layer of sifted substrate or sand. The best strategy is to spread 2-3 eryngium seeds in small nests at a distance of 3-4 cm. Dense sowing is associated with the risk of losing most plants during transplantation, because eryngiums do not dive and grown plants are easily injured in the process of transferring them to a permanent place. Crops are covered with glass or film.
When growing eryngium through seedlings, containers should be kept in non-hot conditions, at a temperature of about 18 degrees. Shoots appear very slowly, the first should be expected only after 3-4 weeks. Periodically, the substrate is re-moistened, and the film or glass is removed for ventilation.
In open soil, the eryngium is sown before winter. Sowing is standard, on a prepared and leveled bed, in grooves, sparse. It is better to sow the eryngium according to the same principle as the rest of the perennials: after persistent cold sets in and the soil freezes in the upper layer. For the winter, there is no need to protect the eryngium crops with additional shelter.
For seedlings, the plant is sown in February or March. The surface of the substrate is leveled and moistened, the seeds are rarely scattered, and then they are covered with a thin layer of sifted substrate or sand. The best strategy is to spread 2-3 eryngium seeds in small nests at a distance of 3-4 cm. Dense sowing is associated with the risk of losing most plants during transplantation, because eryngiums do not dive and grown plants are easily injured in the process of transferring them to a permanent place. Crops are covered with glass or film.
When growing eryngium through seedlings, containers should be kept in non-hot conditions, at a temperature of about 18 degrees. Shoots appear very slowly, the first should be expected only after 3-4 weeks. Periodically, the substrate is re-moistened, and the film or glass is removed for ventilation.
When sowing, the seeds are laid out on the surface of the soil, slightly drowning, sprayed, covered with a film and placed in a well-lit place at a temperature of about 20-30 degrees. There is evidence that if the seeds do not germinate within 2-3 weeks, then they can be removed for several days in the refrigerator. With the subsequent return to a warm bright place.
Rapeseed propagates. Seeds of spring rapeseed germinate at a temperature of 1–3 °C, seedlings tolerate frosts down to −5 °C (an adult plant down to −8 °C), the optimum temperature for germination is 14–17 °C. Growth and development of plants up to the stalking phase is slow. At this time, a powerful root system and rosette leaves are formed.
Shoots appear on the fourth - sixth day after sowing, flowering begins on the fortieth - fiftieth day after emergence. The sum of active temperatures required for the formation of seed yield is 1800–2100 °C, green mass is 780–800 °C. During the growing season, rapeseed consumes 1.5-2 times more water than grain crops. Therefore, in dry years, its productivity is greatly reduced, rapeseed gives good yields on moderately saline soils with acidity close to optimal (pH 6.5–6.8). Rape does not tolerate wet soils with close groundwater, waterlogged and heavy clay areas. It makes high demands on soil fertility, therefore it is responsive to the application of mineral fertilizers. The best soils for growing rapeseed are deep structural loamy and clayey soils with a large supply of trace elements and nutrients, with a permeable subsoil.
Sowing begins 95–110 days before the onset of the frosty period (about 2–3 weeks before sowing winter wheat). During this time, the plant should develop well.
Shoots appear on the fourth - sixth day after sowing, flowering begins on the fortieth - fiftieth day after emergence. The sum of active temperatures required for the formation of seed yield is 1800–2100 °C, green mass is 780–800 °C. During the growing season, rapeseed consumes 1.5-2 times more water than grain crops. Therefore, in dry years, its productivity is greatly reduced, rapeseed gives good yields on moderately saline soils with acidity close to optimal (pH 6.5–6.8). Rape does not tolerate wet soils with close groundwater, waterlogged and heavy clay areas. It makes high demands on soil fertility, therefore it is responsive to the application of mineral fertilizers. The best soils for growing rapeseed are deep structural loamy and clayey soils with a large supply of trace elements and nutrients, with a permeable subsoil.
Sowing begins 95–110 days before the onset of the frosty period (about 2–3 weeks before sowing winter wheat). During this time, the plant should develop well.
If you decide to sow onions for seedlings at home, you need to do this in late February or early March. Sowing in the greenhouse is done in mid-April, and if you are going to grow on a bed under a film, then you need to sow leek seeds at the end of April. Fill the containers (it is better that they are separate pots or cups) with light sod-humus soil. Lightly tamp it and water well, then sow the leek seeds, cover them with a layer of sand 5 mm thick, cover with a film and keep at a temperature of 22-25 ºC until germination.
Propagation by seeds is one of the simplest and most effective ways to get a healthy plant adapted to local conditions. Seeds ripen in early August. They are flat, triangular, light brown in color. They are sown early in spring or before winter to a depth of 2 cm. After sowing, before a sprout appears on the surface, an onion with roots forms in the ground, and only then (in the middle of summer) one leaf with a pointed top grows. A year later, the first whorl of leaves is formed, and a year later (or even two) flowering occurs. Therefore, to see such beauty, you should be patient.
In the spring, you can scatter the seeds on ordinary moist soil and lightly press them to the ground. Seeds need a warm environment and some sunlight to germinate. When the roots grow strong enough, the seedlings can be transplanted. Seeds can also germinate indoors on sandy soil. The plant requires moderate watering and sunlight, and a temperature of at least 20°C. Once fully grown, the plant can withstand both drought and frost. In winter, the plant enters dormancy, but in the spring it begins to grow again.
It is advisable to choose a sunny area for it, but in addition to this, you need to pay attention to the soil - non-acidic, fertile and loose. It is best to sow in the spring, for example, in March, because the bushes will have time to get stronger by the cold weather and they will not be afraid of frost. But under the winter it is undesirable, since the seedlings may die. But this is if you need sowing for seedlings. If the gardener is going to plant the seeds immediately in the ground, then May (10-20th) will be the best month.
Before you start seedlings, you need to prepare boxes and soil. They take sand, process it to prevent the occurrence of various diseases, then mix it with peat and soddy soil. In this case, the last two components are taken in a ratio of 1 to 1, and there is a little less sand. Next, you need to mix everything until a homogeneous mass, sprinkle in boxes or pots and water. When the seeds are laid out, they need to be sprinkled on top with a small amount of sand and covered with a film. The room temperature should be around 18 degrees before sprouts appear. After at least 2 appear, you need to move the containers to a room with a temperature of 13 degrees. Also, seedlings need good lighting. With its deficiency, it is impossible to water abundantly and often, one is enough, a maximum of two times in 7 days.
You can pre-stratify: put the seeds in the refrigerator for a week until they hatch. After that, they are placed in a warm and well-lit place.
When a couple of sheets appear on the sprouts, you can dive. If the number of leaves reaches 5, the growth point is pinched. In April, when the temperature is above zero, the seedlings dive into separate pots, while the roots cannot be deeply buried. At the same time, it is necessary to start hardening the carnation. For this, the plants are taken out into the street, to a place where there are no drafts. In May, the time is already coming when you need to plant in open ground. By the way, experienced gardeners do not recommend skipping the sowing stage for seedlings, since the seeds of this ground cover plant are very small, they can be carried away by the wind or killed by a weed. Other experts, on the contrary, believe that it is necessary to sow immediately in a permanent place because of the thin and delicate tap root.
Before you start seedlings, you need to prepare boxes and soil. They take sand, process it to prevent the occurrence of various diseases, then mix it with peat and soddy soil. In this case, the last two components are taken in a ratio of 1 to 1, and there is a little less sand. Next, you need to mix everything until a homogeneous mass, sprinkle in boxes or pots and water. When the seeds are laid out, they need to be sprinkled on top with a small amount of sand and covered with a film. The room temperature should be around 18 degrees before sprouts appear. After at least 2 appear, you need to move the containers to a room with a temperature of 13 degrees. Also, seedlings need good lighting. With its deficiency, it is impossible to water abundantly and often, one is enough, a maximum of two times in 7 days.
You can pre-stratify: put the seeds in the refrigerator for a week until they hatch. After that, they are placed in a warm and well-lit place.
When a couple of sheets appear on the sprouts, you can dive. If the number of leaves reaches 5, the growth point is pinched. In April, when the temperature is above zero, the seedlings dive into separate pots, while the roots cannot be deeply buried. At the same time, it is necessary to start hardening the carnation. For this, the plants are taken out into the street, to a place where there are no drafts. In May, the time is already coming when you need to plant in open ground. By the way, experienced gardeners do not recommend skipping the sowing stage for seedlings, since the seeds of this ground cover plant are very small, they can be carried away by the wind or killed by a weed. Other experts, on the contrary, believe that it is necessary to sow immediately in a permanent place because of the thin and delicate tap root.
Sowing seeds is carried out both before winter and in early spring. Shoots appear quickly, together. During spring sowing, seeds require preliminary stratification in wet sand, it should not exceed 40 days for a long time, while the temperature is 0C. The seeds are sown in grooves to a depth of 2 cm. Later thinning is carried out, it is necessary to observe a distance between plants of 35 cm.
Representatives of the Volodushka genus do not suggest any special care manipulations. They require standard procedures, i.e. moderate and regular watering, weeding and loosening as needed. The species of the genus are undemanding to the soil, in addition, they are distinguished by winter-hardy and drought-resistant properties. Plants do not need transplantation, they have been actively developing in one area for many years, according to some reports - up to 50 years. Plants can be propagated vegetatively by dividing the rhizome.
Representatives of the Volodushka genus do not suggest any special care manipulations. They require standard procedures, i.e. moderate and regular watering, weeding and loosening as needed. The species of the genus are undemanding to the soil, in addition, they are distinguished by winter-hardy and drought-resistant properties. Plants do not need transplantation, they have been actively developing in one area for many years, according to some reports - up to 50 years. Plants can be propagated vegetatively by dividing the rhizome.
Stratification is not required. Sowing to a depth of 0.5 cm.
Clover planting is planned for spring, when the average daily temperature reaches +10 - +13°C. Most often it is April - May. You can plant a plant in the fall, but the shoots should have time to grow to a height of 7-10 cm before the first frost. In autumn, they grow more slowly, because it is important to choose the planting time with a sufficient margin. Clover is planted in this order: they prepare the soil: they dig it up with the simultaneous removal of the roots of plants or loosen it if the weather is dry, the day before planting, the site is watered abundantly; immediately before planting, the seeds are soaked for an hour in warm water; evenly distribute the seeds over the area so that the grass carpet is thick and uniform. The optimal consumption is 1 kg per 100 square meters. m. Before planting, the seeds are mixed with sand and sprinkled with earth, with a layer no thicker than 2 cm. They also resort to mulching with a thin layer of peat. Then the surface is rolled with a garden roller. This prevents the grains from weathering and washing away, makes them less accessible to birds and improves contact with the soil. The place of sowing clover in autumn or spring is watered and watering is repeated daily until the first sprouts with leaves appear. Shoots appear after about 14 days. The first year the sown area is not cut. They start doing this from the second year. The resulting green mass can be used as animal feed or mulched beds with it. After mowing, the lawn surface looks unaesthetic, but recovers very quickly.
Clover planting is planned for spring, when the average daily temperature reaches +10 - +13°C. Most often it is April - May. You can plant a plant in the fall, but the shoots should have time to grow to a height of 7-10 cm before the first frost. In autumn, they grow more slowly, because it is important to choose the planting time with a sufficient margin. Clover is planted in this order: they prepare the soil: they dig it up with the simultaneous removal of the roots of plants or loosen it if the weather is dry, the day before planting, the site is watered abundantly; immediately before planting, the seeds are soaked for an hour in warm water; evenly distribute the seeds over the area so that the grass carpet is thick and uniform. The optimal consumption is 1 kg per 100 square meters. m. Before planting, the seeds are mixed with sand and sprinkled with earth, with a layer no thicker than 2 cm. They also resort to mulching with a thin layer of peat. Then the surface is rolled with a garden roller. This prevents the grains from weathering and washing away, makes them less accessible to birds and improves contact with the soil. The place of sowing clover in autumn or spring is watered and watering is repeated daily until the first sprouts with leaves appear. Shoots appear after about 14 days. The first year the sown area is not cut. They start doing this from the second year. The resulting green mass can be used as animal feed or mulched beds with it. After mowing, the lawn surface looks unaesthetic, but recovers very quickly.
Lupine seeds are sown for seedlings in a loose soil mixture for seed germination, consisting of peat (one part), soddy soil (one part) and sand (half part). Before sowing, the seeds are mixed with powdered root nodules of old lupins to promote the growth of nitrogen-absorbing bacteria. Shoots will appear in a week or two, and if you want all the seeds to sprout at the same time, you need to cover the crops with damp gauze and keep them warm. Cultivation of seedlings It should be recalled that seed propagation does not guarantee the inheritance of color and other characteristics of mother plants by young lupins. Lupine from seeds is usually grown for the purpose of a breeding experiment. Violet and pink colors dominate, therefore, they can be preserved in the next generation, and the white color is likely to be lost during seed reproduction. After the appearance of 2-3 true leaves, the seedlings are planted in a permanent place - do not delay the transplant, as the tap root system will become a significant hindrance to you.
Stratification is not required. Sowing to a depth of 0.5-1 cm.
Seeds of cyanosis are propagated in spring or winter. They are sown to a depth of 1 to 1.5 cm. In the 1st year, the seedlings form only a rosette, in the 2nd year shoots grow and inflorescences form. When planting finished seedlings, flowering will take place in the same season. Seedlings are obtained from seeds by sowing them in March in containers filled with light soil and keeping them under conditions of moderate ambient temperature. With the onset of June, seedlings are planted in a flower garden or in a garden. Cyanosis is characterized by frequent self-seeding.
Blue cyanosis should be planted in a lighted or semi-shaded area with ordinary garden soil. Love for moisture determines the location of the bluish growing in natural conditions - on river banks, damp meadow areas, so it is better to choose a place with shallow groundwater for planting. In general, blue cyanosis is not demanding in terms of care. There are no special requirements for the soil - it is desirable that it be fertile, with a light mechanical composition, like low-lying (but not waterlogged) soils. High levels of salinity and acidity are not suitable. The earth must be systematically weeded, carefully, paying attention to the pliable leaves and shoots of the plant.
Seeds of cyanosis are propagated in spring or winter. They are sown to a depth of 1 to 1.5 cm. In the 1st year, the seedlings form only a rosette, in the 2nd year shoots grow and inflorescences form. When planting finished seedlings, flowering will take place in the same season. Seedlings are obtained from seeds by sowing them in March in containers filled with light soil and keeping them under conditions of moderate ambient temperature. With the onset of June, seedlings are planted in a flower garden or in a garden. Cyanosis is characterized by frequent self-seeding.
Blue cyanosis should be planted in a lighted or semi-shaded area with ordinary garden soil. Love for moisture determines the location of the bluish growing in natural conditions - on river banks, damp meadow areas, so it is better to choose a place with shallow groundwater for planting. In general, blue cyanosis is not demanding in terms of care. There are no special requirements for the soil - it is desirable that it be fertile, with a light mechanical composition, like low-lying (but not waterlogged) soils. High levels of salinity and acidity are not suitable. The earth must be systematically weeded, carefully, paying attention to the pliable leaves and shoots of the plant.
Planted in the ground in May to a depth of 2 cm. For two years, the plant is grown in a nursery. In September of the second year, they are planted in a permanent place. Asparagus prefers milky areas with loose, well-fertilized soils. Seeds are sown in early autumn or spring, after pre-soaking for 12 hours. The first winter is better to leave young plants in the greenhouse. Planted in a permanent place in late spring-early summer. Hardiness zone 2-9 USDA. It is undemanding to growing conditions.
In our climate, chia does not have time to grow when sown in open ground. How to grow chia with a short summer? Of course, in a seedling way. In the second half of February, you need to prepare a container with fertile land. You can make the mixture yourself, for this, mix leafy soil, coarse sand and low-lying peat in equal proportions. Store-bought land is perfect for cacti and succulents. Make sure the soil is moist and warm. Seeds are best germinated in a separate container. In a plate or plastic container, place a damp cloth folded in several layers, spread the seeds on its surface. Close the container with a transparent lid or cling film. When the roots appear, it's time to sow chia seedlings. It is noted that not all seeds germinate at the same time, so several containers for seedlings may be needed. Daily inspection of seeds makes it possible to divide them into 2-3 batches with a difference in planting of 3-5 days. Before sowing, the ground must be re-moistened, small depressions or grooves 1 cm deep can be made. A distance of 3 cm can be left between rows, 1.5 cm between seeds, with this sowing scheme, seedlings are very convenient to dive. When the first two leaves appear, plant young plants in separate pots. Calculate the volume of the container so that the plants feel comfortable before planting in a permanent place.
You need to understand that chia is a tropical plant, yet poorly adapted to our latitudes. Your task is to create conditions close to natural. The closer to the equator, the shorter the daylight hours. This is what you need to consider when choosing a place. Choose a site on the western or eastern side of the building or a blank fence, open to the sun's rays only 5-7 hours a day. The rest of the time, a dense shadow should fall on the plants. This is the only way to achieve flowering. If everything is done correctly, the first buds can be seen in mid-June, by the end of the month the plants will be covered with flowers, and in August - September it will be possible to collect precious seeds.
You need to understand that chia is a tropical plant, yet poorly adapted to our latitudes. Your task is to create conditions close to natural. The closer to the equator, the shorter the daylight hours. This is what you need to consider when choosing a place. Choose a site on the western or eastern side of the building or a blank fence, open to the sun's rays only 5-7 hours a day. The rest of the time, a dense shadow should fall on the plants. This is the only way to achieve flowering. If everything is done correctly, the first buds can be seen in mid-June, by the end of the month the plants will be covered with flowers, and in August - September it will be possible to collect precious seeds.
When growing from seeds, winter sowing is possible, or growing seedlings in a room for planting in a permanent place in spring. In this case, the seeds require preliminary stratification at t ° 1-3 ° for 2-3 months. Germination and maintenance of seedlings takes place at a temperature of about 20 °.
Seeds need a two-stage stratification:
I - at 20-25° for 2.5-3 months, II - at 0-1° for 5 months.
Seeds should be planted in autumn. If it is planned to postpone sowing until spring, then a two-stage preparation should be carried out: first, the seeds are kept at t 20-25 ºC for 4-5 weeks; then for 3 months they are placed in a place with a temperature of 2-4 ºC. At the end of winter, the flower is sown at home using seedling containers. If you plant the seeds in open ground in the spring, they will sprout a year later, and the first inflorescences will appear in the 3-4 season. Most of the varieties of aconites prefer to grow in the shade.
I - at 20-25° for 2.5-3 months, II - at 0-1° for 5 months.
Seeds should be planted in autumn. If it is planned to postpone sowing until spring, then a two-stage preparation should be carried out: first, the seeds are kept at t 20-25 ºC for 4-5 weeks; then for 3 months they are placed in a place with a temperature of 2-4 ºC. At the end of winter, the flower is sown at home using seedling containers. If you plant the seeds in open ground in the spring, they will sprout a year later, and the first inflorescences will appear in the 3-4 season. Most of the varieties of aconites prefer to grow in the shade.
Buckwheat is a rather whimsical plant, so it will not be possible to grow it in all climatic zones. The best option for growing is the middle lane. The soil for growing buckwheat must be chosen very fertile, since the crop simply will not grow on depleted soils. Soil preparation for planting buckwheat should be started traditionally in the fall: even before the onset of cold weather, the earth is dug up to the depth of a spade bayonet. In early spring, when the snow is just beginning to melt, it is necessary to delay it. It is also desirable to harrow the soil, after loosening its top layer.
Planting a plant can be done in two ways: ordinary and wide-row. Wide-row sowing will provide access to a large amount of light and better conditions for plant nutrition, as well as ensure the development of a sufficiently powerful root system. But with such a planting, the plant will require regular and active care. Therefore, it is more expedient to use the ordinary method of sowing. It is very important to choose the optimal time for planting buckwheat: too early can cause the sowing to die from spring frosts, and late - from drought or too high temperatures. The ideal period for planting a plant is the end of spring (May 20th). Seeds for sowing should be "equal as for selection" and large. They should be planted in the soil to a depth of 4 to 8 cm. By the way, many summer residents sow buckwheat by the old proven method - randomly. After that, the soil can be loosened a little and be sure to water it.
Planting a plant can be done in two ways: ordinary and wide-row. Wide-row sowing will provide access to a large amount of light and better conditions for plant nutrition, as well as ensure the development of a sufficiently powerful root system. But with such a planting, the plant will require regular and active care. Therefore, it is more expedient to use the ordinary method of sowing. It is very important to choose the optimal time for planting buckwheat: too early can cause the sowing to die from spring frosts, and late - from drought or too high temperatures. The ideal period for planting a plant is the end of spring (May 20th). Seeds for sowing should be "equal as for selection" and large. They should be planted in the soil to a depth of 4 to 8 cm. By the way, many summer residents sow buckwheat by the old proven method - randomly. After that, the soil can be loosened a little and be sure to water it.
Sowing seeds in open ground to a depth of 1-1.5 cm. Seedlings are thinned out. The first cutting of greenery is carried out 2-2.5 months after sowing. Flower arrows are regularly removed. The last mass cutting is carried out no later than mid-August for successful overwintering of plants. Plants need regular watering, weeding, loosening and fertilizing.
Stratification is not required. Sowing to a depth of 0.5-1 cm.
Bruise loves open sunny places, but is undemanding to soils. And yet, for more intense flowering, it is better to grow it on loose and fertile soil with neutral or slightly alkaline indicators. If you plant seeds in the fall, then you need to do this just before the onset of severe frosts. Otherwise, still fragile seedlings may appear, which will simply die due to frost. If you are not ready to take such risks, then sowing a bruise should be done in late spring or early July so that it can get stronger and successfully winter. A bruise is sown on prepared soil with a grass seeder or simply by hand. The planting depth is from 0.5 to 1 cm. Seeds germinate at a temperature of +10 degrees, and the most optimal temperature for plant growth and flowering is from +20 to +28 degrees. Since the bruise is a biennial plant and does not bloom in the first year, annual honey plants such as phacelia are sown with it. It blooms in the first year, and the bruise blooms in the second. Thus, a plantation is obtained for the annual collection of nectar by bees. The bruise is a drought-resistant plant species and does not need special watering. It is a competitor to other plants, displacing them. In the future, the bruise is sown on its own and blooms annually in conveyor continuous arrays.
Bruise loves open sunny places, but is undemanding to soils. And yet, for more intense flowering, it is better to grow it on loose and fertile soil with neutral or slightly alkaline indicators. If you plant seeds in the fall, then you need to do this just before the onset of severe frosts. Otherwise, still fragile seedlings may appear, which will simply die due to frost. If you are not ready to take such risks, then sowing a bruise should be done in late spring or early July so that it can get stronger and successfully winter. A bruise is sown on prepared soil with a grass seeder or simply by hand. The planting depth is from 0.5 to 1 cm. Seeds germinate at a temperature of +10 degrees, and the most optimal temperature for plant growth and flowering is from +20 to +28 degrees. Since the bruise is a biennial plant and does not bloom in the first year, annual honey plants such as phacelia are sown with it. It blooms in the first year, and the bruise blooms in the second. Thus, a plantation is obtained for the annual collection of nectar by bees. The bruise is a drought-resistant plant species and does not need special watering. It is a competitor to other plants, displacing them. In the future, the bruise is sown on its own and blooms annually in conveyor continuous arrays.
Planting scorzonera can be carried out both in spring (April-May) and before winter. But still the best results are given by spring sowing. It is important to note that, due to the slow germination rate, it will be possible to see seedlings of kozelets not earlier than 12–15 days, and if watering is insufficient, then after 20 days. To protect against possible return frosts, crops are covered with non-woven material (for example, agrofiber or spunbond). If there is no such shelter, then a simple transparent plastic film can be used. When sowing scorzonera seeds in the first two weeks of August, the seedlings will root well until autumn and can remain for the winter, but they are provided with shelter from dry foliage or spruce branches. When sowing is carried out before winter, shoots will appear only with the establishment of spring heat. It should not be forgotten that during summer and winter sowing, scorzonera plants have a stemming feature. It is important to carry out regular thinning of the crops that have appeared, so that there is a distance of 15 cm between them. This is due to the fact that it happens that flower stalks are formed on individual specimens, which must be removed. Also, a thickened planting will cause the size of the root crops to grind.
Sowing seeds is carried out at several times: in early spring (late April - early May), before winter (October-November), in mid-summer (late June). Winter sowing is carried out with dry seeds. In spring, parsley is sown in moist furrows at a distance of 3-4 cm in a row and 20-30 cm between rows. Crops from above are mulched with peat. To accelerate seed germination, crops are covered with a film, which is removed when shoots appear.
Seed material is recommended to be sown immediately on the prepared site. Crops are carried out in the spring, when the soil warms up sufficiently (in April or May). Breeze seed backlog should be shallow and watering should be done after it. It is better to use a watering can with a sprinkler nozzle in order not to wash the sown seeds out of the soil. Already after a week or a little more, the first shoots can be seen above the soil surface. To get a hundred shaking bushes, you should use 0.5 grams of seeds. As they grow, they will need to be thinned out. When performed, it is left between shoots of 5-10 cm. Usually this method is suitable for growing annual representatives of the genus. Some gardeners sow seeds in the breeze and in the autumn before the cold snap.
Seeds should be placed in the soil no earlier than April, when the soil is already warm enough. Action algorithm:
- Soak the seeds in water for 2-3 days. The fluid is recommended to be changed twice a day.
- Grooves for seeds are prepared in the ground with a depth of about 2 cm, no more.
- Seeds are planted at a distance of 10 cm from each other.
- After 2 weeks, thin out the seedlings.
Growing from seeds of darling lovage is possible not only in April, but also at the end of autumn, the latest time is mid-November. Immediately after winter, when the frosts go away, shoots will appear.
- Soak the seeds in water for 2-3 days. The fluid is recommended to be changed twice a day.
- Grooves for seeds are prepared in the ground with a depth of about 2 cm, no more.
- Seeds are planted at a distance of 10 cm from each other.
- After 2 weeks, thin out the seedlings.
Growing from seeds of darling lovage is possible not only in April, but also at the end of autumn, the latest time is mid-November. Immediately after winter, when the frosts go away, shoots will appear.
A green crop is planted in three stages, a delay in planting leads to coarsening of the plant. The first sowing is before April 25th. The next replanting of fresh plants is May 20 and the last time in the season is August 10. On very sunny days, it is best not to sow, because the mustard will go to the arrows. The place to pick up is not very sunny, she does not like the heat. Seeds are placed in grooves to a depth of 1 cm, it is advisable to leave the distance between rows up to 30 cm. When 2-3 leaves hatch, thinning is done, making room for good growth. The crop is harvested when the plant reaches 12-15 cm - greens are considered ready for use in a month. It is necessary to water the plant twice a week, since the lack of moisture will affect the taste of the leaves, they will become tasteless and coarsen.
This plant is quite unpretentious, early ripening, cold-resistant. Prefers shade, so its cultivation usually takes place under fruit trees. With insufficient moisture, chervil blooms very quickly, while the greens become rough and taste very unpleasant.
Cultivation from seeds is carried out in early spring on beds where other spicy, green or root crops are planted: radish, anise, etc. Since the seeds germinate for quite a long time, it is recommended to soak them for two days in the Zircon growth stimulator. They are sown to a depth of 1-1.5 cm. Seeds begin to germinate 2-3 weeks after planting.
Sowing can be scattered or row. If the seeds are planted in rows, then there should be a distance of 20 cm between them. As soon as the seedlings grow 5 cm in height, they are thinned out. To get greens continuously, this plant is sown several times, every 20 days. To increase productivity, it is necessary to remove flowering stems in a timely manner. Caring for chervil is simple - loosen the soil, weed and water in moderation.
Cultivation from seeds is carried out in early spring on beds where other spicy, green or root crops are planted: radish, anise, etc. Since the seeds germinate for quite a long time, it is recommended to soak them for two days in the Zircon growth stimulator. They are sown to a depth of 1-1.5 cm. Seeds begin to germinate 2-3 weeks after planting.
Sowing can be scattered or row. If the seeds are planted in rows, then there should be a distance of 20 cm between them. As soon as the seedlings grow 5 cm in height, they are thinned out. To get greens continuously, this plant is sown several times, every 20 days. To increase productivity, it is necessary to remove flowering stems in a timely manner. Caring for chervil is simple - loosen the soil, weed and water in moderation.
Growing perilla from seeds is possible both in open ground and in a pot on a windowsill. To grow perilla from seeds, it is necessary to properly prepare the seed material. To speed up the germination of seedlings, soak the seeds in water and leave for 3 days. During this time, the liquid must be changed to clean once. To grow Perilla Rosinka or any other variety, you need to prepare small plastic containers and a nutrient substrate. To do this, mix peat with humus in a ratio of 1: 2. In addition to the substrate, you can add complex mineral fertilizers. Be sure to fill the container with a layer of drainage - for example, expanded clay. After that, densely spread perilla seeds in small rows on top of the nutrient substrate. Moisten the soil well and cover the container with plastic wrap, without covering the seeds with soil, transfer to a warm room. Transplanting perilla into open soil is carried out after at least 2 permanent leaves appear on the seedlings. It is best to postpone planting until the end of May or the first half of June, when the risk of returning frosts disappears.
Recommended stratif. at 0-5 for 3-3.5 months
Seeds do not germinate at a constant temperature of 12 to 25° and do not respond to stratification at 2° for 5 weeks. Removal of covers causes 100% germination at 25°. Treatment of intact (in deep physiological dormancy) seeds with GK3 (100 and 1000 mg/l) for 12 days stimulated germination at 25°C to 29 and 44%, respectively. Prefers moderately dry, well-drained soils, pH: acidic to alkaline, full sun, medium fertility. After the first wave of flowering, the stems are pruned to induce a second wave of flowering. Distance between plants: 50 cm.
Seeds do not germinate at a constant temperature of 12 to 25° and do not respond to stratification at 2° for 5 weeks. Removal of covers causes 100% germination at 25°. Treatment of intact (in deep physiological dormancy) seeds with GK3 (100 and 1000 mg/l) for 12 days stimulated germination at 25°C to 29 and 44%, respectively. Prefers moderately dry, well-drained soils, pH: acidic to alkaline, full sun, medium fertility. After the first wave of flowering, the stems are pruned to induce a second wave of flowering. Distance between plants: 50 cm.
Seeds are sown before winter or at the beginning of spring. If sowing is planned for spring, then immediately before it, the seeds must be stratified, for this they are placed on a refrigerator shelf intended for vegetables for 4–6 weeks, before that they are poured into a plastic container or a plastic bag that needs to be filled with moistened sand ( 1:3). In autumn, the seeds are sown dry 7-10 days before the first frost and buried in the soil by 10-15 mm. When sown in spring, the seeds should be deepened by 20 mm. Approximate row spacing is from 0.45 to 0.6 m. When sowing seeds in spring, 15–20 percent less is spent than in autumn.
Terms of sowing seeds bought:
- in early autumn (late August - early September),
- in the spring - before the start of the growing season.
When sowing seeds in the fall, you won’t have to wait long for flowers - next season they will be truly beautiful and developed. In the Middle lane, Moscow region, seeds are planted immediately in open ground, growing seedlings is not practical, the plant is quite cold-resistant.
Kupena is easy to grow. This is a forest plant, so the best position for it will be a little shaded. She prefers partly sheltered, semi-shaded or shady (northern or eastern exposure).
The soil for kupena should be: moderately moist, permeable, rich in humus, with a neutral or slightly acidic reaction. Fertilizer on fertile substrates is not required. Light soils, little rich in nutrients, should be enriched with organic fertilizers (rotted manure, compost). The rhizomes grow shallow underground, so it is useful to mulch the soil. This protects the shallow roots from sunlight, limits the growth of weeds, reduces water evaporation, and protects the plant from pests. Around the plant it is worth laying out a layer of finely chopped bark, sawdust.
- in early autumn (late August - early September),
- in the spring - before the start of the growing season.
When sowing seeds in the fall, you won’t have to wait long for flowers - next season they will be truly beautiful and developed. In the Middle lane, Moscow region, seeds are planted immediately in open ground, growing seedlings is not practical, the plant is quite cold-resistant.
Kupena is easy to grow. This is a forest plant, so the best position for it will be a little shaded. She prefers partly sheltered, semi-shaded or shady (northern or eastern exposure).
The soil for kupena should be: moderately moist, permeable, rich in humus, with a neutral or slightly acidic reaction. Fertilizer on fertile substrates is not required. Light soils, little rich in nutrients, should be enriched with organic fertilizers (rotted manure, compost). The rhizomes grow shallow underground, so it is useful to mulch the soil. This protects the shallow roots from sunlight, limits the growth of weeds, reduces water evaporation, and protects the plant from pests. Around the plant it is worth laying out a layer of finely chopped bark, sawdust.
Sowing in spring or autumn. Deepening by 0.5-1cm. Hiccups are excellently adapted to temperate continental climates with cold winters and hot summers. It is undemanding to soils, can grow on a poor substrate mixed with sand and gravel, prefers an alkaline pH level.
Forest kupyr is an unpretentious plant. It can be grown both outdoors and in flower pots. The latter method allows you to harvest all year round. The first planting of chervil in garden conditions is carried out from the beginning of April, the second - from June, the third - from August. The timing of the last sowing may vary. The calculation is to ensure that the grown plants go under the snow and rise again in early spring. The forest bush propagates by seeds. It is necessary to plant a plant at a depth of 1–2 cm, and the distance between rows should not be less than half a meter. With proper care, the seeds germinate by the end of the second week. In order to get a crop, you need to regularly water and fertilize the soil. After the first leaves appear, the chervil must be transplanted. The distance between the bushes should not be less than 6 cm. With a subsequent transplant, it increases to 25 cm. Further care consists in regular weeding, loosening the soil, and watering. Chervil planting is carried out in several stages. And for the winter the plant is not destroyed. Thanks to this, you can get fresh greens as soon as the snow melts.
Veronica seeds are sown in open ground in the second half of autumn, when the soil is not too cold and frost has not yet set in. The depth of seed placement in grooves or pits is small, about 5 mm. The approximate interval between seeds is 30 cm. As they grow, the next year, the seedlings are planted, leaving a larger interval (50 cm).
You can sow Veronica seeds in early spring in boxes for seedlings. In this case, preliminary stratification (hardening) of the seed material will be required. To do this, the seeds are laid out on a moist soil mixture (peat and soil), sprinkled with earth and covered with a film with holes. The container is placed in a cold place (refrigerator, cellar) for 3 weeks. After low temperatures, the seed container is placed in a warm and bright place. After 2 weeks, the first seedlings appear. Seedling care is usual: watering, light, airing and heat (about 15ºС). In any case, seedlings will bloom only in the second year of life.
You can sow Veronica seeds in early spring in boxes for seedlings. In this case, preliminary stratification (hardening) of the seed material will be required. To do this, the seeds are laid out on a moist soil mixture (peat and soil), sprinkled with earth and covered with a film with holes. The container is placed in a cold place (refrigerator, cellar) for 3 weeks. After low temperatures, the seed container is placed in a warm and bright place. After 2 weeks, the first seedlings appear. Seedling care is usual: watering, light, airing and heat (about 15ºС). In any case, seedlings will bloom only in the second year of life.
It is grown by sowing seeds in open ground in spring (at the end of April-May) and in late summer (in August) to harvest in the fall.
Spinach is sown to a depth of 1-1.5 cm, then the surface is slightly compacted, the crops are covered with film or glass and kept in a warm place until germination. As soon as the seeds begin to germinate, the film is removed, and the container is moved to the southeast or south window sill - the seedlings that have appeared will need a lot of light. But spinach seedlings are undemanding to warmth: it can be grown even on an unheated loggia. Another condition for the successful development of seedlings, in addition to good lighting, is to keep the substrate slightly moist. Planting spinach in open ground is done when the soil warms up. After transplanting, install metal arcs above the bed at a height of about 20 cm and cover the seedlings with agrofibre in case of night frosts and intense spring sun.
Spinach is sown to a depth of 1-1.5 cm, then the surface is slightly compacted, the crops are covered with film or glass and kept in a warm place until germination. As soon as the seeds begin to germinate, the film is removed, and the container is moved to the southeast or south window sill - the seedlings that have appeared will need a lot of light. But spinach seedlings are undemanding to warmth: it can be grown even on an unheated loggia. Another condition for the successful development of seedlings, in addition to good lighting, is to keep the substrate slightly moist. Planting spinach in open ground is done when the soil warms up. After transplanting, install metal arcs above the bed at a height of about 20 cm and cover the seedlings with agrofibre in case of night frosts and intense spring sun.
Primrose seeds are planted for seedlings in early February on the surface of a substrate consisting of two parts of leafy soil, one part of sand and one part of soddy land. There should be no more than 5 seeds per 1 cm² of the substrate, which are not covered, but simply pressed to the surface. A container with crops is placed in a plastic bag and placed in a freezer for 3-4 weeks at a temperature not higher than -10 ºC. After a month, the frozen crops in bags are transferred to the windowsill, shading from direct rays, and waiting for seedlings, keeping the soil slightly moist. The optimum temperature for seed germination is 16-18 ºC. Not all types of primroses need stratification - for example, common primrose and finely toothed sprout without freezing. When shoots begin to appear, and primrose seeds are usually in no hurry to germinate, the packages are gradually opened slightly, accustoming the seedlings to air, and after two weeks the packages are removed completely.
The culture prefers well-lit or semi-shaded places and fertile soil of neutral or weak acidity (pH 5.5-7). However, plantain will also grow on other soils; it does not tolerate only extremely alkaline, as well as excessively heavy wetlands.
Plantain seeds are sown on the site before winter so that they undergo natural stratification. They are placed in shallow grooves at a distance of about 30-50 cm from each other and sprinkled with a layer of soil at least 0.5 cm thick. In the spring you will see friendly shoots. If you are going to sow plantain seeds in the spring, you will need their long-term preliminary cold stratification. Sow seeds in the ground early, immediately after the soil has thawed and you have thoroughly loosened it to a shallow depth. Plantain crops do not need thinning, but nearby weeds should be removed, especially during the initial growth period of the crop.
Plantain seeds are sown on the site before winter so that they undergo natural stratification. They are placed in shallow grooves at a distance of about 30-50 cm from each other and sprinkled with a layer of soil at least 0.5 cm thick. In the spring you will see friendly shoots. If you are going to sow plantain seeds in the spring, you will need their long-term preliminary cold stratification. Sow seeds in the ground early, immediately after the soil has thawed and you have thoroughly loosened it to a shallow depth. Plantain crops do not need thinning, but nearby weeds should be removed, especially during the initial growth period of the crop.
Landing: sowing seeds in open ground - in September. Stratified seeds can also be sown in early spring. Lighting: bright sunlight, partial shade. Soil: well-drained, permeable and fertile. Watering: only in severe drought. Top dressing: 2 times per season with complex mineral fertilizers. Reproduction: seed. Diseases: powdery mildew and rust. Pests: spider mites. Properties: the plant has healing properties and is grown as a medicinal plant.
Best of all, angelica grows in semi-shaded or sunny areas in well-moistened, fertile permeable soils. Before sowing, the soil on the site is dug up with compost or humus and leveled. The angelica plant is sown before winter, in September, because its seeds need cold stratification. Sowing should be dense, since the germination of the seed is relatively low. If the angelica sprouts too densely in the spring, it should be planted according to the scheme 60x30 or 60x40 cm. It is not necessary to cover the angelica crops for the winter. If sowing is carried out in the spring, the seeds are kept in a vegetable box in the refrigerator for three winter months, pre-mixed with wet sand and placed in a container.
Best of all, angelica grows in semi-shaded or sunny areas in well-moistened, fertile permeable soils. Before sowing, the soil on the site is dug up with compost or humus and leveled. The angelica plant is sown before winter, in September, because its seeds need cold stratification. Sowing should be dense, since the germination of the seed is relatively low. If the angelica sprouts too densely in the spring, it should be planted according to the scheme 60x30 or 60x40 cm. It is not necessary to cover the angelica crops for the winter. If sowing is carried out in the spring, the seeds are kept in a vegetable box in the refrigerator for three winter months, pre-mixed with wet sand and placed in a container.
Seeds need stratif. at 5° for 2-6 months
Repeshka can be grown both at home and at their summer cottage. The soil should be loose, moderately moist (ph level - 5-6). The landing site should be well lit with light partial shade. If you decide to plant agrimony in your summer cottage, then the seeds must be sown in May. The interval between plantings is 10-12 cm. The bed should be watered moderately - make sure that it does not dry out excessively. The soil must be loosened and weeded from weeds. The season for collecting medicinal raw materials is July (during the flowering period).
Repeshka can be grown both at home and at their summer cottage. The soil should be loose, moderately moist (ph level - 5-6). The landing site should be well lit with light partial shade. If you decide to plant agrimony in your summer cottage, then the seeds must be sown in May. The interval between plantings is 10-12 cm. The bed should be watered moderately - make sure that it does not dry out excessively. The soil must be loosened and weeded from weeds. The season for collecting medicinal raw materials is July (during the flowering period).
Stratification is not required. Before sowing seeds scalded with boiling water, then lowered into cold water and so on several times. You can pour boiling water and leave to cool. Repeat with unswollen seeds. Sowing to a depth of 0.5-1 cm.
Stratification is not required. Seeding is superficial.
Planting: sowing seeds in the ground - immediately after they ripen or in spring, at the end of April. Lighting: bright sunlight, partial shade and even shade. Soil: any. Watering: only in severe drought. In the normal season, natural precipitation is sufficient. Top dressing: sometimes the plant is fertilized with mullein infusion diluted in a ratio of 1:6. Reproduction: seeds and division of the bush. Pests and diseases: not affected. Properties: a medicinal plant that has a choleretic, bactericidal, antispasmodic and anti-inflammatory effect.
Celandine seeds are sown before winter, but you can sow celandine in the spring. The soil is dug up to the depth of a spade bayonet and harrowed. Sowing depth - 1-2 cm. If you sow celandine at the end of April, then it will germinate in two weeks, bloom in mid-July, and bear fruit at the end of August. Seedlings sown before winter will appear before seeds sown in spring germinate. The overwintered adult celandine begins to grow in the first decade of May, in mid-May it will already begin to form flowers, and flowering will stop only by August.
Planting: sowing seeds in the ground - immediately after they ripen or in spring, at the end of April. Lighting: bright sunlight, partial shade and even shade. Soil: any. Watering: only in severe drought. In the normal season, natural precipitation is sufficient. Top dressing: sometimes the plant is fertilized with mullein infusion diluted in a ratio of 1:6. Reproduction: seeds and division of the bush. Pests and diseases: not affected. Properties: a medicinal plant that has a choleretic, bactericidal, antispasmodic and anti-inflammatory effect.
Celandine seeds are sown before winter, but you can sow celandine in the spring. The soil is dug up to the depth of a spade bayonet and harrowed. Sowing depth - 1-2 cm. If you sow celandine at the end of April, then it will germinate in two weeks, bloom in mid-July, and bear fruit at the end of August. Seedlings sown before winter will appear before seeds sown in spring germinate. The overwintered adult celandine begins to grow in the first decade of May, in mid-May it will already begin to form flowers, and flowering will stop only by August.
Stratification is not required, but cold stratification for 1-2 months increases germination. Seeding is superficial. The seeds are photosensitive.
It mainly propagates with the help of seeds, which must be sown in moist soil in the middle of spring (April) and before the beginning of summer. The temperature should be in the range of 13-18 degrees. Does not require special care.
It mainly propagates with the help of seeds, which must be sown in moist soil in the middle of spring (April) and before the beginning of summer. The temperature should be in the range of 13-18 degrees. Does not require special care.
Surface sowing on moist soil. You can sprinkle a little sand on top so that light seeds do not fly away.
Grown outdoors for herbs and spices. Sow in the ground in April. Sowing scheme: 10x20 cm. If you sow coriander seeds in the ground in April, when the snow melts and the ground thaws, you can pick the first leaves of cilantro in early summer. But using the seedling seed method, you can get a green crop earlier. To do this, in February, sow the seeds in cups (coriander does not like transplants) with a soil mixture to a depth of 1.5 cm, cover the crops with foil and place them on the windowsill. At home, coriander seeds germinate in 1-2 weeks, and as soon as this happens, the film is removed from the crops. Seedling care consists in infrequent, but abundant moistening of the substrate, and it is better to use the bottom watering method, in a pan. At the stage of development of the seedlings of the first pair of true leaves, the crops are thinned out so that the seedlings do not interfere with each other's development. When the seedlings grow up and get stronger, they pinch it and harden it for two weeks: they take it out for a short time into the open air, protecting it from precipitation and drafts. Every day, the duration of the walk is increased until the seedlings get used to the environment in which they will grow in the future.
Stratification is not required. Sowing to a depth of 0.5-1 cm.
It is unpretentious to growing conditions. Feels great on loam. Hardiness zone 4-8 usda.
Sowing seeds of elecampane is carried out in the spring (in the second decade of May) or before winter. The seed does not need preliminary stratification, but for convenience, the seeds are mixed with sand in equal parts. For one row one meter long, approximately 200 elecampane seeds will be needed. The depth of embedding in light soil is 2-3 cm, in heavy soil - 1-2 cm. Row spacings are left 60-70 cm wide. temperature 20-25 ºC. Under normal weather conditions, it takes about two weeks from the moment of sowing to the germination of seeds. A few days before the emergence of seedlings, the plot is harrowed across the sowing rows, removing large clods of earth and filamentous weed seedlings.
It is unpretentious to growing conditions. Feels great on loam. Hardiness zone 4-8 usda.
Sowing seeds of elecampane is carried out in the spring (in the second decade of May) or before winter. The seed does not need preliminary stratification, but for convenience, the seeds are mixed with sand in equal parts. For one row one meter long, approximately 200 elecampane seeds will be needed. The depth of embedding in light soil is 2-3 cm, in heavy soil - 1-2 cm. Row spacings are left 60-70 cm wide. temperature 20-25 ºC. Under normal weather conditions, it takes about two weeks from the moment of sowing to the germination of seeds. A few days before the emergence of seedlings, the plot is harrowed across the sowing rows, removing large clods of earth and filamentous weed seedlings.
Stratification is not required. Seeding is superficial. The seeds are photosensitive. Tansy is undemanding neither to the composition of the soil, nor to the amount of moisture in it, nor to lighting. Tansy seeds are sown outdoors in late April or early May, although many gardeners prefer to do this in mid-autumn. Sowing is carried out according to the scheme 20x40 cm, the depth of seed placement is 2-3 cm.
Tribulus is a fairly unpretentious plant that can be easily grown at home. It is recommended to grow through seedlings.
Plant in mid-April to a depth of 1 cm, with the spines down into the ground, maintaining a distance of 10-15 cm. After about 3 weeks, shoots will appear. As soon as 2 pairs of true leaves appear, dive. Planted in the ground in mid-May.
As a landing site, you should choose a well-lit area that is not prone to flooding. The plant is resistant to high temperatures and drought, but does not tolerate cold well, dying almost immediately. For better grass growth, it is recommended to water no more than twice a week and remove weeds in a timely manner.
Plant in mid-April to a depth of 1 cm, with the spines down into the ground, maintaining a distance of 10-15 cm. After about 3 weeks, shoots will appear. As soon as 2 pairs of true leaves appear, dive. Planted in the ground in mid-May.
As a landing site, you should choose a well-lit area that is not prone to flooding. The plant is resistant to high temperatures and drought, but does not tolerate cold well, dying almost immediately. For better grass growth, it is recommended to water no more than twice a week and remove weeds in a timely manner.
It is optimal to plant cochia seeds for seedlings at the end of March or in the first half of April. In this case, the time of the procedure should be chosen based on the weather conditions of the place where cultivation is planned. So, in the southern regions it is better to do this at the end (or even in the middle) of March, in colder regions later. Pre-sowing preparation is not required, you can immediately plant them in the soil. In addition, the seeds of cochia are small, it is quite difficult to conduct it. Initially, kochia seeds need to be sown in a common container. There is no point in planting in individual cups, firstly, the seeds are too small and difficult to handle (you will have to use tweezers or a toothpick for piece sowing), and secondly, you still have to dive seedlings. As a container for growing seedlings of kochia, you can use any box (wooden, plastic), food container, various bowls. However, it is important that the container is not too high, about 6-7 cm is enough. It is also necessary that there are drainage holes at the bottom of any container to remove moisture. There are serious requirements for the soil mixture for sowing cochia for seedlings: it must be loose, nutritious, moisture-permeable, neutral in acidity. The earth must necessarily include loosening elements: sand, perlite, vermiculite. The soil must be fresh! You can not use the land in which seedlings were previously grown. It is also necessary to decontaminate the soil, as Kochia seedlings may be subject to the "black leg" disease. To do this, you can steam or ignite the earth and then be sure to spill the earth with a solution of a biological fungicide.
Planting cochia for seedlings:
1) Put a 1.5 cm drainage layer on the bottom, perlite or broken brick is good for drainage.
2) Fill the box with earth, leaving two centimeters to the edges of the container.
3) Lightly dampen the surface with a sprayer.
4) Scatter the seeds evenly over the surface of the soil. Seeding is always shallow because cochia seeds need light to germinate! Do not cover them with earth or sand.
5) After sowing, you need to press the seeds quite lightly to the surface of the earth with your hand or a spoon.
6) Moisten the surface of the earth from a spray bottle with warm water.
7) Cover the crops with a transparent lid, film or glass. And put in a bright, warm place.
Seeds germinate well at a temperature of + 18-20 degrees Celsius. After the emergence of seedlings, you need to lower the temperature to 14-15 degrees during the day, 12-13 degrees at night. The timing of the picking of seedlings of kochia should be chosen based on the appearance of the seedlings. If you see that they have grown two or three true leaves, then you should proceed with the procedure. It is necessary to plant each plant in separate containers (cups, pots). The material can be made of plastic, peat. The optimal container diameter is 7-10 cm.
It is possible to transplant plants in open ground only when the night frosts and the threat of their return have passed. The weather should be stable and warm outside. The optimal dates are at the end of May, beginning of June.
Planting cochia for seedlings:
1) Put a 1.5 cm drainage layer on the bottom, perlite or broken brick is good for drainage.
2) Fill the box with earth, leaving two centimeters to the edges of the container.
3) Lightly dampen the surface with a sprayer.
4) Scatter the seeds evenly over the surface of the soil. Seeding is always shallow because cochia seeds need light to germinate! Do not cover them with earth or sand.
5) After sowing, you need to press the seeds quite lightly to the surface of the earth with your hand or a spoon.
6) Moisten the surface of the earth from a spray bottle with warm water.
7) Cover the crops with a transparent lid, film or glass. And put in a bright, warm place.
Seeds germinate well at a temperature of + 18-20 degrees Celsius. After the emergence of seedlings, you need to lower the temperature to 14-15 degrees during the day, 12-13 degrees at night. The timing of the picking of seedlings of kochia should be chosen based on the appearance of the seedlings. If you see that they have grown two or three true leaves, then you should proceed with the procedure. It is necessary to plant each plant in separate containers (cups, pots). The material can be made of plastic, peat. The optimal container diameter is 7-10 cm.
It is possible to transplant plants in open ground only when the night frosts and the threat of their return have passed. The weather should be stable and warm outside. The optimal dates are at the end of May, beginning of June.
Initially, you will need to soak the grains in clean water, the temperature of which is from +180 C to +200 C. You can also use a solution of potassium permanganate (1%).
After two hours, transfer the planting material to a cloth, and after a few minutes mix it with fine-grained, wet sand.
Keep the resulting mixture at zero air temperature for 3 to 4 months. A great option is the bottom shelf of the refrigerator or basement. Before proceeding with the procedure, you need to prepare a place for landing. The first thing you need to do is to dig up the garden bed. Then add 3 to 4 kg of humus per 1 m2. If it is not possible to use organic matter, then it can be replaced with purchased fertilizers based on phosphorus or potassium. It is necessary to sow grains to a depth of no more than 3 cm. The optimal width between rows is considered to be about 65 cm. Landing is carried out by the tape method. In each of them it is necessary to form 3 lines. They should be located at a distance of 35 cm. The width between the tapes themselves should be within 65 cm. After planting, the site is mulched. To do this, you can use peat or humus. Mulch is especially important if sowing is carried out not in spring, but in autumn. Re-cover the rows with humus immediately after the first shoots have appeared. The first shoots should be carefully watered with settled water, and after the appearance of two pairs of leaves, they need to be thinned out. The optimal distance between specimens is 30 cm. In the dry season, plants are often irrigated. Starting from May, watering is increased. If the air temperature is high for a long time and there is no rain, then irrigation is carried out at least twice a week. Loosening and top dressing are also required.
After two hours, transfer the planting material to a cloth, and after a few minutes mix it with fine-grained, wet sand.
Keep the resulting mixture at zero air temperature for 3 to 4 months. A great option is the bottom shelf of the refrigerator or basement. Before proceeding with the procedure, you need to prepare a place for landing. The first thing you need to do is to dig up the garden bed. Then add 3 to 4 kg of humus per 1 m2. If it is not possible to use organic matter, then it can be replaced with purchased fertilizers based on phosphorus or potassium. It is necessary to sow grains to a depth of no more than 3 cm. The optimal width between rows is considered to be about 65 cm. Landing is carried out by the tape method. In each of them it is necessary to form 3 lines. They should be located at a distance of 35 cm. The width between the tapes themselves should be within 65 cm. After planting, the site is mulched. To do this, you can use peat or humus. Mulch is especially important if sowing is carried out not in spring, but in autumn. Re-cover the rows with humus immediately after the first shoots have appeared. The first shoots should be carefully watered with settled water, and after the appearance of two pairs of leaves, they need to be thinned out. The optimal distance between specimens is 30 cm. In the dry season, plants are often irrigated. Starting from May, watering is increased. If the air temperature is high for a long time and there is no rain, then irrigation is carried out at least twice a week. Loosening and top dressing are also required.
A two-stage stratification is recommended: I - at 18-22° for 1 month, II - at 0-3° for 5 months, followed by germination at 18-22°.
Under natural conditions, seeds become viable only after winter stratification. Without it, friendly and high-quality shoots will not work. Under artificial conditions, stratification is carried out in a refrigerator or on a glazed loggia, where the air temperature does not fall below -3 ° C.
Stratification of wild garlic seeds at home:
- soak the seeds in warm water for 1 hour;
- calcinate river sand in the oven;
- pour sand into a shallow container;
- sow seeds from above, without deepening the soil and without moistening;
- cover with a lid or polyethylene, put in a cool place (refrigerator) for 3 months.
Periodically, the container is taken out of the refrigerator and checked for mold and mildew. After 3 months, the seeds are ready for planting. Growing wild garlic involves planting young bulbs in open ground only after a year, and getting greenery after another 2 years. After stratification, the seeds are placed in trays with moistened soil and sprinkled with 1 cm of peat on top. The container is placed in a warm, dark room, covered with polyethylene on top. Shoots will appear in 3-4 weeks. These are thin hairs that need to be dived after 2-3 weeks. How to plant wild garlic in spring? In May, after an increase in the average daily air temperature, the strengthened sprouts are planted in grooves, the distance between which is 50-60 cm. The current and next seasons, the bulbs are watered and fed abundantly, allowing the green mass and root system to grow. Greens are not cut. If there is no shady place on the site, and the site itself is high, wild garlic is grown in greenhouses, where they maintain high humidity and protect the plants from the bright sun. In such conditions, juicy greens are obtained from March to October. Planting and caring for wild garlic in greenhouse conditions does not differ from that produced when growing a plant in open ground. The main thing is watering, weed removal and regular top dressing.
Under natural conditions, seeds become viable only after winter stratification. Without it, friendly and high-quality shoots will not work. Under artificial conditions, stratification is carried out in a refrigerator or on a glazed loggia, where the air temperature does not fall below -3 ° C.
Stratification of wild garlic seeds at home:
- soak the seeds in warm water for 1 hour;
- calcinate river sand in the oven;
- pour sand into a shallow container;
- sow seeds from above, without deepening the soil and without moistening;
- cover with a lid or polyethylene, put in a cool place (refrigerator) for 3 months.
Periodically, the container is taken out of the refrigerator and checked for mold and mildew. After 3 months, the seeds are ready for planting. Growing wild garlic involves planting young bulbs in open ground only after a year, and getting greenery after another 2 years. After stratification, the seeds are placed in trays with moistened soil and sprinkled with 1 cm of peat on top. The container is placed in a warm, dark room, covered with polyethylene on top. Shoots will appear in 3-4 weeks. These are thin hairs that need to be dived after 2-3 weeks. How to plant wild garlic in spring? In May, after an increase in the average daily air temperature, the strengthened sprouts are planted in grooves, the distance between which is 50-60 cm. The current and next seasons, the bulbs are watered and fed abundantly, allowing the green mass and root system to grow. Greens are not cut. If there is no shady place on the site, and the site itself is high, wild garlic is grown in greenhouses, where they maintain high humidity and protect the plants from the bright sun. In such conditions, juicy greens are obtained from March to October. Planting and caring for wild garlic in greenhouse conditions does not differ from that produced when growing a plant in open ground. The main thing is watering, weed removal and regular top dressing.
Stratification is not required, but cold stratification for 1-2 months increases germination. Seeding is superficial. The seeds are photosensitive.
Cold stratification is required for 3-5 months. Seeding is superficial. The seeds are photosensitive. The composition and acidity of the soil is undemanding. Very hygrophilous. It is better to choose a place for landing sunny or in partial shade. Frost resistance 4-9 zones usda. Seeds are sown immediately in autumn or spring in a cold greenhouse, shallow. Transplantation to a permanent place is carried out in autumn, when young plants grow up and get stronger.
Recommended stratif. at 4° for 3–3.5 months
Seeds are sown to a depth of 2 - 2.5 cm in autumn, usually in early October, or in early spring. It is better to sow them immediately in a permanent place. Teasel seeds are large, with a dense skin, they need to be pre-soaked for 2-3 hours in a solution of flower fertilizers or a slightly pink solution of potassium permanganate; they have a germination rate close to 100%, so it is better to lay them out individually in grooves every 5-7 cm. In the first year, only rosettes of leaves are formed that remain to winter. If the sockets grow closely, then at the end of September or early spring of the second year they are carefully dug out and planted - their feeding area should be at least 60 x 30 cm, otherwise the cones will be small. Plants tolerate transplanting well. In autumn, it is useful to remove a few lower large green leaves in the resulting lush rosettes; for the winter, the plants need to be slightly spudded and covered with spruce branches so that they do not freeze out in a snowless winter; it should be covered only with the onset of significant (-5 ... -7 degrees C) frosts, when the soil freezes to a depth of 3-5 cm; shelter will not only save the plant from winter frosts, but also relieve the threat of premature (before the roots thaw) leaf development; remove the shelter only after you make sure that the soil has thawed completely. At the beginning of the growing season, a small amount of nitrogen fertilizer can be applied. Care consists of weeding, loosening the soil and watering.
Seeds are sown to a depth of 2 - 2.5 cm in autumn, usually in early October, or in early spring. It is better to sow them immediately in a permanent place. Teasel seeds are large, with a dense skin, they need to be pre-soaked for 2-3 hours in a solution of flower fertilizers or a slightly pink solution of potassium permanganate; they have a germination rate close to 100%, so it is better to lay them out individually in grooves every 5-7 cm. In the first year, only rosettes of leaves are formed that remain to winter. If the sockets grow closely, then at the end of September or early spring of the second year they are carefully dug out and planted - their feeding area should be at least 60 x 30 cm, otherwise the cones will be small. Plants tolerate transplanting well. In autumn, it is useful to remove a few lower large green leaves in the resulting lush rosettes; for the winter, the plants need to be slightly spudded and covered with spruce branches so that they do not freeze out in a snowless winter; it should be covered only with the onset of significant (-5 ... -7 degrees C) frosts, when the soil freezes to a depth of 3-5 cm; shelter will not only save the plant from winter frosts, but also relieve the threat of premature (before the roots thaw) leaf development; remove the shelter only after you make sure that the soil has thawed completely. At the beginning of the growing season, a small amount of nitrogen fertilizer can be applied. Care consists of weeding, loosening the soil and watering.
A two-stage stratification is recommended: I - at 18-22° for 30 days, II - at 0-3° for 50 days and germination at 18-22°. The plant is unpretentious, resistant to many diseases. Moisture-loving, frost-resistant. It is better to choose a sunny place for planting, with light and nutritious soil rich in humus.
If you are going to grow a bathing suit from seeds, you should be aware that the seed of this plant needs to be pre-treated with low temperatures. You can sow the seeds of the swimsuit in late autumn in a container and keep it in an unheated room, where the seeds will naturally stratify during the winter months and germinate in the spring. But it is better to put the seed after collection in a bag with wet sand, place it in the vegetable box of the refrigerator and keep it there for 3-4 months at a temperature of 2-4 ºC, and in March sow the seeds in the substrate and wait for germination at a temperature of 20 ºC. The seeds of the bathing suit germinate very slowly, but by mid-April or May, seedlings will most likely appear. It is imperative to protect the seedlings from direct sunlight and prevent the substrate from drying out. At the stage of development of the second true leaf, the seedlings dive, observing a step of 8-10 cm, and in August the seedlings are planted in open ground.
If you are going to grow a bathing suit from seeds, you should be aware that the seed of this plant needs to be pre-treated with low temperatures. You can sow the seeds of the swimsuit in late autumn in a container and keep it in an unheated room, where the seeds will naturally stratify during the winter months and germinate in the spring. But it is better to put the seed after collection in a bag with wet sand, place it in the vegetable box of the refrigerator and keep it there for 3-4 months at a temperature of 2-4 ºC, and in March sow the seeds in the substrate and wait for germination at a temperature of 20 ºC. The seeds of the bathing suit germinate very slowly, but by mid-April or May, seedlings will most likely appear. It is imperative to protect the seedlings from direct sunlight and prevent the substrate from drying out. At the stage of development of the second true leaf, the seedlings dive, observing a step of 8-10 cm, and in August the seedlings are planted in open ground.
Planting: sowing seeds in open ground - before winter or early spring. Flowering: from July to September. Lighting: bright sunlight. Soil: The composition of the soil does not matter. Watering: only in dry season. Top dressing: before flowering with a solution of mullein, bird droppings or complex mineral fertilizer. Reproduction: seed. Diseases: the plant is resistant. Pests: not affected. Properties: the plant has healing properties.
The cocklebur plant can also develop on poor soils, but in fertile soil it grows faster. The site for cocklebur should be sunny. Sowing seeds in the ground is carried out in early spring or before winter in furrows 5 cm deep. Before spring sowing, it is advisable to keep cocklebur seeds for about a month in the vegetable box of the refrigerator, first placing them in a plastic container with wet moss. Stratification is not needed before winter sowing. After planting the seeds in the soil, the bed is watered.
The cocklebur plant can also develop on poor soils, but in fertile soil it grows faster. The site for cocklebur should be sunny. Sowing seeds in the ground is carried out in early spring or before winter in furrows 5 cm deep. Before spring sowing, it is advisable to keep cocklebur seeds for about a month in the vegetable box of the refrigerator, first placing them in a plastic container with wet moss. Stratification is not needed before winter sowing. After planting the seeds in the soil, the bed is watered.
From seeds, the cuff is grown through seedlings. To do this, a fertile loose soil mixture is poured into the box, which passes air and water well. At the same time, it is recommended to make a drainage layer of expanded clay or pebbles at the bottom of the tank. Seeds are sown to a depth of 0.7 to 1 cm. Sowing is carried out in March or November. If sowing was carried out in the fall, then 15 days after sowing the seeds, the box is transferred to the street. It is placed in a place that has reliable protection from direct sunlight and drafts.
In the spring, move the crops to a well-lit and warm place. Since the seeds have undergone a natural stratification during the winter, seedlings appear relatively quickly. After they have formed from 2 to 4 true leaf plates, they should be picked into individual peat pots. Planting cuff seedlings in open ground is carried out in the spring after warm weather sets in (sometimes this happens already in the last days of April). Bushes will please with their flowering in the first year of growth.
In the spring, move the crops to a well-lit and warm place. Since the seeds have undergone a natural stratification during the winter, seedlings appear relatively quickly. After they have formed from 2 to 4 true leaf plates, they should be picked into individual peat pots. Planting cuff seedlings in open ground is carried out in the spring after warm weather sets in (sometimes this happens already in the last days of April). Bushes will please with their flowering in the first year of growth.
From seeds, the cuff is grown through seedlings. To do this, a fertile loose soil mixture is poured into the box, which passes air and water well. At the same time, it is recommended to make a drainage layer of expanded clay or pebbles at the bottom of the tank. Seeds are sown to a depth of 0.7 to 1 cm. Sowing is carried out in March or November. If sowing was carried out in the fall, then 15 days after sowing the seeds, the box is transferred to the street. It is placed in a place that has reliable protection from direct sunlight and drafts.
In the spring, move the crops to a well-lit and warm place. Since the seeds have undergone a natural stratification during the winter, seedlings appear relatively quickly. After they have formed from 2 to 4 true leaf plates, they should be picked into individual peat pots. Planting cuff seedlings in open ground is carried out in the spring after warm weather sets in (sometimes this happens already in the last days of April). Bushes will please with their flowering in the first year of growth.
In the spring, move the crops to a well-lit and warm place. Since the seeds have undergone a natural stratification during the winter, seedlings appear relatively quickly. After they have formed from 2 to 4 true leaf plates, they should be picked into individual peat pots. Planting cuff seedlings in open ground is carried out in the spring after warm weather sets in (sometimes this happens already in the last days of April). Bushes will please with their flowering in the first year of growth.
Stratification is not required. Before sowing, the seeds are scalded with boiling water, after which they are dipped in cold water and so on several times. You can pour boiling water and leave to cool. Repeat with unswollen seeds. Sowing to a depth of 0.5-1 cm.
With the onset of spring, the seed material must be combined with sawdust, after which it is sown directly into open ground in small grooves, which should be prepared in advance. Their depth should not be more than 20 mm, and the distance between them should be about 50 centimeters.
Mordovnik seeds can also be sown in autumn. However, in order for the seeds to germinate successfully, they will need good shelter throughout the winter. When the sowing is finished, the grooves are closed with a rake. If the wintering goes well, then you can see the first seedlings immediately after the snow cover melts in spring.
In regions with frosty winters, such a herbaceous plant is grown through seedlings. In this case, the sowing of seeds is carried out in the first spring weeks, and containers or small pots are used for this. Do not forget to systematically water the crops with a sprayer. To speed up the germination of seeds, the container should be covered with a film on top, after which it is transferred to a place where it is always warm.
If you do everything right, then the first seedlings should appear in about 7 days. As soon as this happens, remove the shelter and provide the crops with systematic watering. When warm weather sets in, and several true leaf plates form on the plants, they are planted in a permanent place in the garden.
Planting seedlings in open ground is recommended in May. For this, a site with loose soil that is well permeable to water and air, which contains a lot of peat and sand, is suitable. In this case, the soil must be necessarily slightly acidic. In heavy dense soil, the plant may die. Please note that only the area that is not located close to an artificial or natural reservoir is suitable for growing Mordovnik.
During the first year of growth, the bushes gain strength and increase their green mass. They bloom only in the second year of growth. Every year the plant becomes bigger, thicker and more spectacular.
Mordovnik seeds can also be sown in autumn. However, in order for the seeds to germinate successfully, they will need good shelter throughout the winter. When the sowing is finished, the grooves are closed with a rake. If the wintering goes well, then you can see the first seedlings immediately after the snow cover melts in spring.
In regions with frosty winters, such a herbaceous plant is grown through seedlings. In this case, the sowing of seeds is carried out in the first spring weeks, and containers or small pots are used for this. Do not forget to systematically water the crops with a sprayer. To speed up the germination of seeds, the container should be covered with a film on top, after which it is transferred to a place where it is always warm.
If you do everything right, then the first seedlings should appear in about 7 days. As soon as this happens, remove the shelter and provide the crops with systematic watering. When warm weather sets in, and several true leaf plates form on the plants, they are planted in a permanent place in the garden.
Planting seedlings in open ground is recommended in May. For this, a site with loose soil that is well permeable to water and air, which contains a lot of peat and sand, is suitable. In this case, the soil must be necessarily slightly acidic. In heavy dense soil, the plant may die. Please note that only the area that is not located close to an artificial or natural reservoir is suitable for growing Mordovnik.
During the first year of growth, the bushes gain strength and increase their green mass. They bloom only in the second year of growth. Every year the plant becomes bigger, thicker and more spectacular.
Seeds need stratif. at 5° for 2-3 months
Seeds have good winter hardiness, they are planted in autumn, buried in the soil by 2-3 cm, and watered.
Seeds have good winter hardiness, they are planted in autumn, buried in the soil by 2-3 cm, and watered.
Stratification is not required. Seeding is superficial. The seeds are photosensitive. Seeds can be grown for seedlings. To do this, prepare a soil mixture of humus, peat and sand in equal proportions. Fill the boxes with the mixture, sow the seeds, cover with foil. At the stage of 2 leaves, pick the seedlings into separate cups. At the beginning of summer, transplant fireweed seedlings into open ground. You can also sow seeds directly into the ground. Weightless "fluff" can be glued onto toilet paper strips using flour paste. Then spread the strips on edge into grooves 2-3 cm deep. The distance between the grooves is about 20 cm. Top the crops with a mixture of sand and ash in equal amounts. Water the beds with melt water very abundantly. The second option is to wet the seeds before sowing, mix with sand and apply to the furrows.
Buttercup seeds are sown in late February or early March in loose, light soil, consisting of peat soil (one part), leafy soil (one part) and sand (half part). From above, the seeds are lightly sprinkled with soil, which is then moistened from the sprayer. The container with crops is covered with glass and kept at a temperature of 10-12 ºC, regularly airing and removing condensate from the glass. Shoots usually appear after 2-3 weeks, and then the container needs to be moved to a warmer and lighter place (about 20 ºC), and the south window with direct sunlight is most suitable for this. If necessary, arrange additional lighting for the seedlings. In the phase of 4-5 true leaves, young plants dive into peat-humus pots. In mid-May, when the last night frosts are left behind, garden ranunculus is planted. The best place for buttercups in the garden is sunny or semi-shady areas, protected from drafts and sudden gusts of wind. Buttercups prefer soil that is neutral or slightly acidic (pH 5.5-6.6), nutritious, permeable and light, and also moderately moist, since buttercup roots can rot in too wet soil.
The site is dug up in advance, leveled, abundantly moistened. If necessary, the territory is fertilized. The soil for the plant is not acidic, loamy. Acidic soil is limed in advance. The site should be lit, not cluttered with trees. The flower loves direct sunlight, as bright places as possible. It is advisable to prepare a place for sowing in bulk using humus fertilizers and peat. The dug-up place is fertilized with a mineral agent at the rate of 3 tablespoons per 1 meter of area. Peat fertilizers with humus, nitrophoska are mixed with soil and leveled, making the soil loose. After that, fill the area with water. Further, grooves are made at a distance of 30-35 centimeters from each other, where chicory seeds are planted. Seeds should be planted to a depth of no more than 1-1.5 centimeters. The distance between seedlings is at least 8 centimeters. It is important to observe the proportions of the row spacing, leaving a distance of up to 40-60 centimeters for an adult plant. Planting seeds too deep will result in both reduced germination and germination time.
The first shoots will be visible on the 7-14th day. As it grows and develops, it is necessary to thin out the crop. Otherwise, young plants will destroy each other (the minimum distance between adult specimens is 30 centimeters).
The first shoots will be visible on the 7-14th day. As it grows and develops, it is necessary to thin out the crop. Otherwise, young plants will destroy each other (the minimum distance between adult specimens is 30 centimeters).
As a rule, verbena is easily propagated by seed. However, in some species, the surface of the seeds is protected by a high-density shell, which contributes to the difficulty of their germination. In this case, the seed material must be stratified, or rather, exposed to low temperatures. The stratification procedure is quite simple. Seeds are laid out on a moistened cloth, then they are placed in an opaque polyethylene bag. Then they are removed for 4 or 5 days on a refrigerator shelf intended for vegetables. After the seed material has been stratified, it can be sown directly in open ground. However, most gardeners grow verbena through seedlings, as this method is known for its reliability.
For seedlings, seeds are sown in March. To do this, the seedling box must be filled with humus light soil, either perlite or sand. Distribute the seeds evenly over the surface of the substrate and cover them with a thin layer of humus on top. From above, the crops are covered with glass or film and removed to a place where the temperature is kept at 18–20 degrees. Do not forget to regularly remove condensate from the shelter and ventilate the crops. The seeds of such a plant are characterized by gradual germination, and the first shoots will appear after 3-4 weeks. As soon as this happens, move the crops to a place that should be a little cooler.
The grown seedlings need to be watered in a timely manner, for this they are moistened from the spray gun immediately after the top layer of the soil mixture dries. 30 days after the plants form 2 pairs of true leaf plates, they should be picked into cellular containers or into individual small containers. Planting seedlings of verbena in open ground is carried out only when the threat of return frosts disappears.
For seedlings, seeds are sown in March. To do this, the seedling box must be filled with humus light soil, either perlite or sand. Distribute the seeds evenly over the surface of the substrate and cover them with a thin layer of humus on top. From above, the crops are covered with glass or film and removed to a place where the temperature is kept at 18–20 degrees. Do not forget to regularly remove condensate from the shelter and ventilate the crops. The seeds of such a plant are characterized by gradual germination, and the first shoots will appear after 3-4 weeks. As soon as this happens, move the crops to a place that should be a little cooler.
The grown seedlings need to be watered in a timely manner, for this they are moistened from the spray gun immediately after the top layer of the soil mixture dries. 30 days after the plants form 2 pairs of true leaf plates, they should be picked into cellular containers or into individual small containers. Planting seedlings of verbena in open ground is carried out only when the threat of return frosts disappears.
Growing luffa from seeds at home is not difficult, but before planting luffa, it is better to first hold the hard seeds of the plant in a damp cloth until they swell and tiny white shoots appear. This will take 1-2 weeks. Growing luffa seedlings is similar to growing cucumber seedlings. Fill containers or pots with a moist nutrient substrate, carefully spread the hatched luffa seeds on its surface, cover them with a layer of substrate 3 cm thick on top, pour, cover the containers with transparent film or glass and place in a warm place. Depending on the temperature in the room, seedlings will begin to appear in 1-2 weeks, and as soon as the first seeds germinate, the film can be removed from the crops.
The next stage of luffa development should take place at a temperature of 20 ˚C. Seedling care consists in regular moistening and loosening of the soil. In addition, seedlings need fresh air, so the room should be ventilated daily to prevent drafts. At the stage of development, seedlings have 5-6 true leaves, they are planted in open ground after a preliminary two-week hardening. The first hardening session is carried out on a warm, clear day after 4 pm: the seedlings are taken out into the open air for a short time, having organized protection for them from drafts, sudden gusts of wind and precipitation. Then the duration of daily walks is gradually increased to 5-6 hours. Transplanting Luffa into open ground requires considerable space, and if you do not have a greenhouse, then it is better to plant hardened seedlings in open ground: adult plants cannot fit on the windowsill. Seedlings are planted after hardening procedures at the stage of development of 5-6 leaves, provided that real spring has come and the air temperature in the garden is kept at 15 ˚C. This usually happens in the second half of May.
The site for luffa has been prepared since autumn. The plant prefers open, sunny, protected from wind and drafts areas with neutral, nutrient-rich soil. Chernozem and sandy loam are most suitable in this regard. Do not plant luffa where cucurbits or gourds grew before it, which need the same nutrients as luffa and suffer from the same diseases. The site for luffa has been prepared since autumn. The plant prefers open, sunny, protected from wind and drafts areas with neutral, nutrient-rich soil. Chernozem and sandy loam are most suitable in this regard. Do not plant luffa where cucurbits or gourds grew before it, which need the same nutrients as luffa and suffer from the same diseases.
The next stage of luffa development should take place at a temperature of 20 ˚C. Seedling care consists in regular moistening and loosening of the soil. In addition, seedlings need fresh air, so the room should be ventilated daily to prevent drafts. At the stage of development, seedlings have 5-6 true leaves, they are planted in open ground after a preliminary two-week hardening. The first hardening session is carried out on a warm, clear day after 4 pm: the seedlings are taken out into the open air for a short time, having organized protection for them from drafts, sudden gusts of wind and precipitation. Then the duration of daily walks is gradually increased to 5-6 hours. Transplanting Luffa into open ground requires considerable space, and if you do not have a greenhouse, then it is better to plant hardened seedlings in open ground: adult plants cannot fit on the windowsill. Seedlings are planted after hardening procedures at the stage of development of 5-6 leaves, provided that real spring has come and the air temperature in the garden is kept at 15 ˚C. This usually happens in the second half of May.
The site for luffa has been prepared since autumn. The plant prefers open, sunny, protected from wind and drafts areas with neutral, nutrient-rich soil. Chernozem and sandy loam are most suitable in this regard. Do not plant luffa where cucurbits or gourds grew before it, which need the same nutrients as luffa and suffer from the same diseases. The site for luffa has been prepared since autumn. The plant prefers open, sunny, protected from wind and drafts areas with neutral, nutrient-rich soil. Chernozem and sandy loam are most suitable in this regard. Do not plant luffa where cucurbits or gourds grew before it, which need the same nutrients as luffa and suffer from the same diseases.
It is best to grow a hemlock plant in seedlings: at the end of winter, hemlock seeds are sown in a seedling substrate, shallowly covered, covered with film or glass to create greenhouse conditions and germinated in a warm place. Care for hemlock seedlings should be the same as for flower seedlings. In mid-May or a little later, seedlings are planted in well-humused soil in a sunny area at a distance of 80-90 cm from each other.
Prefers well-drained, fertile, moist soils. Grows well in heavy clay soils. The level of acidity is not picky. It is better to choose a landing site in the sun or in partial shade. Hardiness zone 5-9 usda.
Seeds are sown in autumn or spring in a cold greenhouse. Transplant to a permanent location next spring.
Seeds are sown in autumn or spring in a cold greenhouse. Transplant to a permanent location next spring.
A semi-parasitic weed that grows in moist soil. To create growing conditions on the site, you need a pond or stream.
Stratification is not required. Sowing to a depth of 0.5-1 cm
Stratification is not required. Seeding is superficial. The seeds are photosensitive. Prefers moist soils, its composition and acidity is not picky. A suitable landing site is sunny or in partial shade. Frost resistance zone 5-10 usda.
Henbane is sown either in the spring or before winter. The second option is carried out with dry seeds before the onset of real frosts. This is done in order to prevent the germination of the material ahead of time. Sow in an ordinary way, while maintaining a distance of 60 cm between future bushes. Grooves with seed do not close up. Before entering the soil, seeds for spring planting are stratified in the usual way. This takes at least 45 days. Growing young plants indoors is not recommended. The lack of suitable conditions and the excessive danger of such a toxic neighborhood in a closed apartment make growing henbane from seeds not the best thing to do.
Seeds can germinate without stratiph., but holding for 2-3 months at 5 ° improves germination. Seedlings develop roots within 2 months at 21°C. For the successful development of the shoot, the seedlings must again be subjected to stratif. at 5 ° for 3-5 months. It is better to sow seeds immediately in open loose ground. Sowing depth - 2 cm.
Phacelia belongs to light-loving crops, so it is better to sow in well-lit areas. However, there are varieties that grow successfully in the shade. Before sowing seeds, the bed must be dug up and weeds and roots must be selected. Level the soil with a rake, compact and water. Since the phacelia seeds are very small, it is recommended to mix them with sifted sand for a more even distribution. Grooves are made in the prepared soil, leaving 30 cm between rows. Seeds are sown in furrows and sprinkled with a layer of soil up to 2 cm thick. Seeds cannot be left on the soil surface - they will not germinate. The first shoots will appear in 10-14 days. Sowing should be carried out immediately at the place of permanent growth, since phacelia does not tolerate transplants.
Sowing from seeds, like most legumes, is done in mid-spring, when the soil warms up to 10-12 degrees Celsius. The distance between the rows is kept 15-20 cm, and the depth of embedding is no more than 1-3 cm. Sometimes the horned loaf is sown mixed with other herbs if the goal is to arrange a meadow in a natural style on the site.
The seed material is subjected to stratification, they are placed on the shelf of the refrigerator for 30 days. Fill the planting container with a mixture of peat and sand, into which the seeds are sown. Then the crops are harvested for 3 months in a cool place (about 5 degrees). After this time, the crops are briefly rearranged in heat (from 20 to 23 degrees). However, for a friendly emergence of seedlings, the crops should be removed again in a cool place for 1-2 months. Then the crops are rearranged to a place where the air temperature is kept at a level of 20 to 23 degrees. The light should be diffused, and do not forget to systematically water the seedlings. Please note that they grow very slowly at first. The grown seedlings are transplanted to a permanent place in late spring. For the first time, young bushes will bloom only for 3-4 years of growth.
Sowing should be done in the spring after the snow cover has melted, while the seeds should be combined with sand or glued to paper strips. It is necessary to deepen the seeds into the soil by no more than 15 mm, while the distance between the previously made grooves should be from 0.65 to 0.9 m. The grooves are sealed with loose soil. Crops need watering, which is carried out very carefully, using a watering can with a shower head. It is recommended to water fireweed with rain or melt water.
Growing catnip from seeds is quite simple, the main thing is to take into account some of the nuances:
1) Since the seeds are very hard, immediately before sowing they are placed in a freezer, where they must stay one night.
2) After the seed material is removed from the freezer, it is poured into a container with water and left for one day. As a result of such preparation, it will be possible to destroy the protective layer of seeds, which will significantly accelerate their germination.
3) Sowing seeds is carried out in a seedling box or in open ground.
4) The first shoots should appear after 1-1.5 weeks. After they grow up a little, they are seated.
When planting bushes in open ground, a distance of 0.3–0.5 meters should be observed between them.
1) Since the seeds are very hard, immediately before sowing they are placed in a freezer, where they must stay one night.
2) After the seed material is removed from the freezer, it is poured into a container with water and left for one day. As a result of such preparation, it will be possible to destroy the protective layer of seeds, which will significantly accelerate their germination.
3) Sowing seeds is carried out in a seedling box or in open ground.
4) The first shoots should appear after 1-1.5 weeks. After they grow up a little, they are seated.
When planting bushes in open ground, a distance of 0.3–0.5 meters should be observed between them.
Plant burdock seeds about 1 centimeter deep and at least 20 centimeters apart. Keep the soil moist until germination, which takes no more than seven days. Once the seeds germinate, little care is required. Roots will be ready to harvest in about 90 days, although young leaves can be harvested much sooner.
Canary grass is propagated by seeds that are pre-soaked for speedy germination. You can sow directly in the garden or in advance in early spring, in March-April, in plastic containers or pots, several pieces each. Planting depth 1-1.5 cm, distance not less than 2-3 cm between seedlings. Shoots are not long in coming. And after a few days they rise like a brush above the surface of the soil. It remains only to moisten the soil before the seedlings are transferred to a permanent place. Planting holes are prepared in advance, fertilizing them with organic matter and thoroughly moisturizing. Transplanted by transshipment from the container to the ground. If there are too many seedlings in a pot, you can divide the curtain into two or more parts. The canary, with proper care, grows rapidly and occupies the entire territory provided to it.
Cold stratification is required for 3-5 months. Seeding is superficial. The seeds are photosensitive.
Direct sowing of planting material in open ground from late April to early May, to a depth of 10-15 mm, with an interval of 30 cm. Seedlings take root well, do not require care, are not afraid of cold weather, they only need timely moistening. Grass is not grown with seedlings, because there is no need for this.
Direct sowing of planting material in open ground from late April to early May, to a depth of 10-15 mm, with an interval of 30 cm. Seedlings take root well, do not require care, are not afraid of cold weather, they only need timely moistening. Grass is not grown with seedlings, because there is no need for this.
For sowing, both spring and autumn are suitable. You can grow seedlings or immediately sow seed material with the advent of April or in the first week of May in the garden, creating greenhouse conditions. The soil should be loose and light, but not too fertile, so that the topsoil exceeds 20–40 cm. When planting directly into the soil, the aisle is maintained at 15–20 cm. Seeds are placed in them, but not covered, or it is recommended to sprinkle them with a substrate layer of no more than 0.5 cm. After 2–3 weeks, seedlings can be seen and thinned out so that the distance between the remaining specimens is 10–15 cm. When spring of next year comes, then in the period of April-May, seedlings can be transplanted to a permanent place in the garden throughout the summer months until the beginning of autumn.
Recommended stratif. at 1-5° for 3-4 months
In the Crimea and the Caucasus, narrow-leaved lavender is used for landscaping dry rocky places, creating borders. Can be grown in the Moscow region, but requires shelter for the winter. It is of great importance in the fight against soil erosion.
Lavender is planted in open ground no later than the beginning of October, using stratified and hardened seeds. Seedlings are planted in the spring, in the first decade of May. Hardening of seeds occurs for at least 2 months, during this period they must be kept at a constant temperature of 5-6 degrees in a room with high humidity. Most often, fresh lavender seeds are mixed with river sand, moistened and sent for storage in a cold store or cellar.
In the Crimea and the Caucasus, narrow-leaved lavender is used for landscaping dry rocky places, creating borders. Can be grown in the Moscow region, but requires shelter for the winter. It is of great importance in the fight against soil erosion.
Lavender is planted in open ground no later than the beginning of October, using stratified and hardened seeds. Seedlings are planted in the spring, in the first decade of May. Hardening of seeds occurs for at least 2 months, during this period they must be kept at a constant temperature of 5-6 degrees in a room with high humidity. Most often, fresh lavender seeds are mixed with river sand, moistened and sent for storage in a cold store or cellar.
Prefer moist light soils. Soil acidity is undemanding. Cold hardy and extremely shade tolerant. Variegated forms can grow in the sun, but their shading is mandatory in the midday heat (from 11 am to 4 pm).
When sowing, the seeds are buried in the soil shallowly, no more than 7 mm, sprinkled a little on top with agroperlite. The container is covered with foil. Shoots usually appear after two weeks at a temperature of about 20 degrees.
When sowing, the seeds are buried in the soil shallowly, no more than 7 mm, sprinkled a little on top with agroperlite. The container is covered with foil. Shoots usually appear after two weeks at a temperature of about 20 degrees.
New plants are planted in autumn at the end of September or in spring. It should be noted that onions can flower, only at least 3 years must pass.
When spring planting, it is necessary to stratify. This procedure allows you to artificially start natural processes and prepare the seed as much as possible for spring awakening.
Stratification is easy to carry out at home:
1. Seeds should be placed in a bag of earth or wet sand.
2. Put the bag in the refrigerator for 2-3 months.
Seeds can rot in the ground if left unseasoned.
When spring planting, it is necessary to stratify. This procedure allows you to artificially start natural processes and prepare the seed as much as possible for spring awakening.
Stratification is easy to carry out at home:
1. Seeds should be placed in a bag of earth or wet sand.
2. Put the bag in the refrigerator for 2-3 months.
Seeds can rot in the ground if left unseasoned.
Frost resistance: In the open field, the plant is suitable for growing in frost resistance zones from 8 to 11. In a temperate and cold climate, the plant is usually grown as an annual (in this case, the height of the plants does not exceed 15-25 cm).
Growing: Partially shady areas with fertile, well-drained soil are best suited for growing the plant. The plant is resistant to heat and strong salty sea winds, but does not tolerate prolonged waterlogging of the soil. Ash ragwort can also be grown as a pot culture, including on balconies.
Seeds are planted in February-March in seedlings, lightly sprinkled with fine-grained sand. Glass is placed on top and the landing container is placed in a well-lit place. Seedlings appear in one to two weeks (at a temperature of +18 ºC). In the phase of two true leaves, the seedlings dive. Seedlings are planted in a permanent place in mid-May. The distance between seedlings is 25-30 cm.
Growing: Partially shady areas with fertile, well-drained soil are best suited for growing the plant. The plant is resistant to heat and strong salty sea winds, but does not tolerate prolonged waterlogging of the soil. Ash ragwort can also be grown as a pot culture, including on balconies.
Seeds are planted in February-March in seedlings, lightly sprinkled with fine-grained sand. Glass is placed on top and the landing container is placed in a well-lit place. Seedlings appear in one to two weeks (at a temperature of +18 ºC). In the phase of two true leaves, the seedlings dive. Seedlings are planted in a permanent place in mid-May. The distance between seedlings is 25-30 cm.
To prepare the substrate, you need to add two parts of high-quality humus soil to sand and peat, taken in one part, and mix well. Although it is easier to purchase the soil "Universal", "Vegetable" or "Biogrunt" in the store. As a container, you can use boxes and containers, but pressed peat cubes with a face of 4-5 cm are better. Seeds are pickled for 2-3 hours in a pink solution of potassium permanganate and scattered over the surface without sealing. If a box is used for sowing, the seeds are sown in grooves with a depth of no more than 1 cm. The distance between rows should be 5 cm if you dive in the future, and if you decide to do without picking, then the interval should be at least 10 cm. Crops plentifully, but carefully watered and placed under the film. It is better to keep them in a bright place at a temperature of 18-21 ºC. Seedlings may appear already on the third or fourth day, and as soon as this happens, the temperature is lowered by 3-4 degrees, otherwise the seedlings may stretch. When the seedlings develop 1-2 true leaves, they dive if necessary. Seedlings are planted in open ground at the stage of development of 3-4 leaves after a two-week hardening of the seedlings, which consists in spending some time in the fresh air every day, and the duration of these sessions is gradually increased until the seedlings can spend the whole day in the yard. Growing lettuce at home does not require hardening procedures.
How to plant violet seeds:
sift the soil mixture through a sieve;
fill the containers for sowing with the sifted mixture;
spill the substrate with a solution of potassium permanganate;
wait a while for the substrate to dry;
level and slightly compact the surface of the substrate;
make shallow grooves on the surface;
sow violet seeds in the grooves;
top the seeds with a thin layer of the mixture;
spray water the soil after sowing.
Care After the seeds are planted, you need to monitor the temperature regime, since it determines how long the violets will sprout: at a temperature of +20 degrees, the first shoots can be expected on about 20 days from the date of sowing; if the temperature of the substrate is raised 5 degrees higher, then the first sprouts of Saintpaulia will come to the surface in 15 days. Immediately after sowing, the container with planted seeds should be covered with glass, film or thick paper. This will protect the substrate from moisture loss and ensure rapid seed germination. It is also important not to leave the container in direct sunlight, but to put it in a shaded place. In the next 2-3 weeks, until the seeds sprout, you need to control the temperature and humidity of the substrate. It is unacceptable that the temperature drops below +20 degrees, and the substrate even dries out for a short time. Only in this case shoots will appear at the expected time.
sift the soil mixture through a sieve;
fill the containers for sowing with the sifted mixture;
spill the substrate with a solution of potassium permanganate;
wait a while for the substrate to dry;
level and slightly compact the surface of the substrate;
make shallow grooves on the surface;
sow violet seeds in the grooves;
top the seeds with a thin layer of the mixture;
spray water the soil after sowing.
Care After the seeds are planted, you need to monitor the temperature regime, since it determines how long the violets will sprout: at a temperature of +20 degrees, the first shoots can be expected on about 20 days from the date of sowing; if the temperature of the substrate is raised 5 degrees higher, then the first sprouts of Saintpaulia will come to the surface in 15 days. Immediately after sowing, the container with planted seeds should be covered with glass, film or thick paper. This will protect the substrate from moisture loss and ensure rapid seed germination. It is also important not to leave the container in direct sunlight, but to put it in a shaded place. In the next 2-3 weeks, until the seeds sprout, you need to control the temperature and humidity of the substrate. It is unacceptable that the temperature drops below +20 degrees, and the substrate even dries out for a short time. Only in this case shoots will appear at the expected time.
The plant prefers moist, slightly flooded soil along lakes and rivers.
The plant can be propagated by seeds (autumn or winter).
Seeds are immediately planted in open ground or outdoor pots, which are then buried in water so that the pot is hidden by about 1.5 centimeters. To increase the germination of seeds, they are hardened by placing them at a temperature of 5 ° C for a couple of weeks.
The plant can be propagated by seeds (autumn or winter).
Seeds are immediately planted in open ground or outdoor pots, which are then buried in water so that the pot is hidden by about 1.5 centimeters. To increase the germination of seeds, they are hardened by placing them at a temperature of 5 ° C for a couple of weeks.
A seed grows if a microscopic fungus enters it. After that, the seedling stays in the soil for two years, feeding on plant cells. When elevated above the ground, it grows slowly, and blooms only 10-15 years after planting.
Choose a suitable place for the dreamer right away. It grows best in partial shade. Of course, some species prefer places in the sun. But in this case, they need to be shaded in especially hot weather.
The soil for the plant does not really matter. But the preferred soil for it is loamy. The main thing is that it be moist and not rich in organic fertilizers. By the way, the plant is able to tolerate stagnant moisture in the soil. But on dry soil, it will slow down growth and develop poorly. Of course, in this case, the dream will not bloom.
After planting, be sure to mulch the ground so that there are fewer weed plants. In addition, the mulch will retain moisture in the soil, which is so necessary for the dreamer.
Since the marsh dremlik is a moisture-loving plant, it must be watered frequently with plenty of water. If he does not have enough water, it will affect his condition.
Choose a suitable place for the dreamer right away. It grows best in partial shade. Of course, some species prefer places in the sun. But in this case, they need to be shaded in especially hot weather.
The soil for the plant does not really matter. But the preferred soil for it is loamy. The main thing is that it be moist and not rich in organic fertilizers. By the way, the plant is able to tolerate stagnant moisture in the soil. But on dry soil, it will slow down growth and develop poorly. Of course, in this case, the dream will not bloom.
After planting, be sure to mulch the ground so that there are fewer weed plants. In addition, the mulch will retain moisture in the soil, which is so necessary for the dreamer.
Since the marsh dremlik is a moisture-loving plant, it must be watered frequently with plenty of water. If he does not have enough water, it will affect his condition.
Growing mint from seeds is relatively easy. A container with seedlings can be placed on the windowsill, and it can also be placed on the veranda or insulated loggia. The first step is to prepare the soil mixture. To do this, you need to combine peat, garden soil, humus or sand, taken in equal proportions. The prepared substrate must be calcined in the oven. Seeds can be bought in a special store or collected with your own hands. They are sown in a moistened soil mixture, while it is necessary to make grooves in it with a depth of 0.5 to 1 cm. After the seeds are evenly distributed in them, the grooves must be carefully closed. The container is covered with a film on top, after which it is removed to a well-lit and warm place. The first shoots should appear after 15–20 days, after which the container with them must be moved to a well-lit place, this will help prevent the plants from stretching. If the seedlings lack light, then they will need artificial lighting. Best of all, the plant grows and develops at a temperature of 20 to 25 degrees. However, if this crop is grown in conditions of lack of light, then the seedlings should be kept cool (from 15 to 17 degrees). If desired, grown plants can be planted in a garden plot, and they can also be further grown indoors.
Propagated by seeds. Planting is best done before winter, in November, to a depth of 1-2 cm. They germinate at a temperature of 5 ºC. Sowing seeds is also carried out in March in greenhouses, using a soil consisting of 2-3 parts of sand, to which one part of soddy land and humus is added. Seedlings appear in two to three weeks.
Follow a number of rules and Kukushkin color will delight you for many years:
• Top dressing. If the soils in your region are rich in nutrient composition, additional fertilizer will not be required. If not, apply the nutrient mixture at the stage of planting or transplanting the plant. Then you can help him with fertilizers during the period of active growth and flowering;
• Watering. It should be plentiful, the plant is not adapted to a long drought. At the same time, it is better to water less often, but more abundantly;
• Lighting. It is best to plant the plant in an area well-lit by sunlight for as long as possible during the day;
• The soil. It should be quite light in texture, nutritious, it is better that it contains lime, but not too much. It is also important to have drainage. If necessary, it is worth digging a hole on the prepared site, at the bottom of which crushed stone, broken clay fragments, etc. are placed. From above, the base is covered with earth, and then flowers are planted;
• Transplant. It is advisable to carry it out only when necessary, and already in adulthood, when the plant has reached maturity.
Follow a number of rules and Kukushkin color will delight you for many years:
• Top dressing. If the soils in your region are rich in nutrient composition, additional fertilizer will not be required. If not, apply the nutrient mixture at the stage of planting or transplanting the plant. Then you can help him with fertilizers during the period of active growth and flowering;
• Watering. It should be plentiful, the plant is not adapted to a long drought. At the same time, it is better to water less often, but more abundantly;
• Lighting. It is best to plant the plant in an area well-lit by sunlight for as long as possible during the day;
• The soil. It should be quite light in texture, nutritious, it is better that it contains lime, but not too much. It is also important to have drainage. If necessary, it is worth digging a hole on the prepared site, at the bottom of which crushed stone, broken clay fragments, etc. are placed. From above, the base is covered with earth, and then flowers are planted;
• Transplant. It is advisable to carry it out only when necessary, and already in adulthood, when the plant has reached maturity.
If you need to plant seeds, preliminary preparation of planting material is required. One of the necessary procedures is stratification, which includes hardening the seeds in the refrigerator at a temperature of 8-10 degrees for one to two months. Then you should prepare a small box or containers, cups with drainage holes and, filling the containers halfway with a mixture of peat and sand, sow the seeds. The seeds are very small, it is worth spending more time to scatter them on the surface as infrequently as possible, it is ideal to keep a gap of 2-3 cm between them. From above, carefully sprinkle with soil mixture, which will cover the seeds by 0.5-1 cm. After that, the containers are covered with film or glass, placed in a bright, warm place (windowsill). After 2 weeks, shoots will appear, the shelter is immediately removed so that the plants do not get sick with putrefactive diseases. The first 2-3 real leaves are a signal to start picking. Plants are transplanted into larger containers, you can use the same fork to "dig" them out of the ground without damaging the roots. After 5-7 days after picking, you can begin to gradually harden off the seedlings. We take it out into the fresh air, leaving it first for an hour or two, then for half a day and already for the whole day. Hardened seedlings are planted in open ground, the approximate distance between seedlings is 40-50 cm. If you sow seeds in open ground, then this should be done in autumn in specially prepared ground. After sowing, cover the ground with leaves "under the snow", then the seeds are certified in a natural way. In May, the grown plants will be ready for transplanting to a permanent place.
The seeds are photosensitive. Stratiph. at 0 - 5 ° for 1-3 months enhances germination
Seed propagation of Anemones without the use of seedlings is very simple: it is enough to plant the seeds in soft soil at the end of autumn and sprinkle them on top with a layer of straw 10-15 cm. Under such conditions, the seeds will receive natural stratification and will sprout perfectly.
If a decision is made to propagate a plant by seed using seedling cultivation, then one should prepare for several stages of this process: seed germination, their stratification and direct cultivation.
The sequence of seed propagation of anemones using the seedling method:
- Seeds are mixed with the substrate in a ratio of 1 to 3 by volume. Coarse river sand or peat can act as a substrate. The resulting mixture must be well mixed and moistened.
- The mixture is placed on the bottom of the box and placed in a shaded place. Once a day, it must be sprayed from a spray bottle.
- After the seeds swell, 2-3 cm thick soil is placed on the substrate. The soil is a 1: 1 mixture of garden soil and humus. Next, the box with seeds is transferred to a cold room with a temperature not higher than + 5 ° C.
- After the first sprouts have hatched (1-2 weeks), the seed box is taken out of the room, sprinkled with snow or soil, and a layer of sawdust 10-12 cm is poured on top.
- The box is kept in the cold for 30-60 days. Then they dig it up and take it back to the room.
- Transplanting seedlings to a permanent place is carried out after the appearance of the second true leaf.
Anemone seedlings after stratification are placed in a warm and sunny place. Seedling care consists of daily watering with a spray bottle and removing weeds. No specific care (fertilizing and picking) is needed.
Seed propagation of Anemones without the use of seedlings is very simple: it is enough to plant the seeds in soft soil at the end of autumn and sprinkle them on top with a layer of straw 10-15 cm. Under such conditions, the seeds will receive natural stratification and will sprout perfectly.
If a decision is made to propagate a plant by seed using seedling cultivation, then one should prepare for several stages of this process: seed germination, their stratification and direct cultivation.
The sequence of seed propagation of anemones using the seedling method:
- Seeds are mixed with the substrate in a ratio of 1 to 3 by volume. Coarse river sand or peat can act as a substrate. The resulting mixture must be well mixed and moistened.
- The mixture is placed on the bottom of the box and placed in a shaded place. Once a day, it must be sprayed from a spray bottle.
- After the seeds swell, 2-3 cm thick soil is placed on the substrate. The soil is a 1: 1 mixture of garden soil and humus. Next, the box with seeds is transferred to a cold room with a temperature not higher than + 5 ° C.
- After the first sprouts have hatched (1-2 weeks), the seed box is taken out of the room, sprinkled with snow or soil, and a layer of sawdust 10-12 cm is poured on top.
- The box is kept in the cold for 30-60 days. Then they dig it up and take it back to the room.
- Transplanting seedlings to a permanent place is carried out after the appearance of the second true leaf.
Anemone seedlings after stratification are placed in a warm and sunny place. Seedling care consists of daily watering with a spray bottle and removing weeds. No specific care (fertilizing and picking) is needed.
With the onset of spring, the seed material must be combined with sawdust, after which it is sown directly into open ground in small grooves, which should be prepared in advance. Their depth should not be more than 20 mm, and the distance between them should be about 50 centimeters. The sowing of seeds of the pasnik can be carried out in the autumn. However, in order for the seeds to germinate successfully, they will need good shelter throughout the winter. When the sowing is finished, the grooves are closed with a rake. If the wintering goes well, then you can see the first seedlings immediately after the snow cover melts in spring.
Reproduction by seeds is carried out in March-April by sowing in prepared soil. Seed material does not need to be buried in the ground, it should only be evenly distributed over the surface of the earth, lightly sprinkled with soil, then moisten the soil.
Jerusalem artichoke is grown both in open ground and in containers. Jerusalem artichoke is planted in open ground before winter, 2-3 weeks before the onset of stable cold weather, or in spring, when the soil warms up enough. In autumn, whole tubers are planted in the ground, and in spring they can be divided into several parts when planting. Choose a well-lit area for Jerusalem artichoke, where it will not shade other plants, since its stems reach a height of 3 m. It is best to plant Jerusalem artichoke along the perimeter of the garden or along the fence.
In late April or early May, select small, neat Jerusalem artichoke tubers for planting the size of a chicken egg, soak them in Zircon solution at the rate of 1 ml of the drug per 1 liter of water, and then plant them at a distance of 40 cm from each other in a trench 12-15 deep. cm. The row spacing should be 60-70 cm. Mix the soil removed from the furrow with bone meal, then fill the trench with this mixture.
In late April or early May, select small, neat Jerusalem artichoke tubers for planting the size of a chicken egg, soak them in Zircon solution at the rate of 1 ml of the drug per 1 liter of water, and then plant them at a distance of 40 cm from each other in a trench 12-15 deep. cm. The row spacing should be 60-70 cm. Mix the soil removed from the furrow with bone meal, then fill the trench with this mixture.
Baikal skullcap reproduces only by seeds, in view of the fact that its roots lie too deep and it is not possible to carefully extract it without damaging it. It is also difficult for this species to tolerate transplantation. Sowing is carried out in early spring (mid-March), but first the seeds must be stratified. They are placed in a bag and transferred to the refrigerator for the winter. The easiest way is to sow the site in the same autumn, after collecting the seeds, so natural stratification will occur over the winter and in the spring, after the temperature rises, friendly shoots will begin to appear. Since the seeds are very small, it is enough to sow them directly on top of a moistened substrate (without deepening), tamp a little and sprinkle lightly with sand.
As for preparing the site for planting in open ground, then you need to take care of adding compost to the soil since autumn (during spring planting). At first, frequent soil moisture should be ensured. But this applies only to sowing, an adult bush does not require such an amount of watering. Once a week is sufficient for this drought tolerant plant. Otherwise, you can cause rotting of the rhizome. The first shoots in a couple of weeks can please the eye, and after another week the first leaves will begin to hatch. The budding phase occurs in 40-50 days, and full flowering occurs almost three months after the first shoots appear. Caring for a plant in the growing season consists of four mandatory items: loosening the earth around the bush, removing weeds, moderate watering and top dressing.
As for preparing the site for planting in open ground, then you need to take care of adding compost to the soil since autumn (during spring planting). At first, frequent soil moisture should be ensured. But this applies only to sowing, an adult bush does not require such an amount of watering. Once a week is sufficient for this drought tolerant plant. Otherwise, you can cause rotting of the rhizome. The first shoots in a couple of weeks can please the eye, and after another week the first leaves will begin to hatch. The budding phase occurs in 40-50 days, and full flowering occurs almost three months after the first shoots appear. Caring for a plant in the growing season consists of four mandatory items: loosening the earth around the bush, removing weeds, moderate watering and top dressing.
Planting in open ground is planned in early spring, as soon as the snow melts from the beds. It can also be done in mid-autumn (October), when the weather begins to change dramatically. Clay or swampy sections of the flower bed are selected for it. Does not tolerate heavy, alkaline and loose soils.
In late February or early March, planting material is planted for seedlings. The soil requires loose and fertile. Seeds are laid out on the ground and sprinkled with earth on top. After that, they are abundantly sprayed with a spray bottle. Germinate at a temperature of 15-18˚С.
Subject to all recommendations, the first shoots should appear in 3-4 weeks. If this does not happen at the appointed time, then the seeds are subjected to additional stratification. The container is sent to a cool room (± 4 ° C) for 14-21 days. When 3-4 full-fledged leaves appear, the seedlings are picked into separate containers.
In late February or early March, planting material is planted for seedlings. The soil requires loose and fertile. Seeds are laid out on the ground and sprinkled with earth on top. After that, they are abundantly sprayed with a spray bottle. Germinate at a temperature of 15-18˚С.
Subject to all recommendations, the first shoots should appear in 3-4 weeks. If this does not happen at the appointed time, then the seeds are subjected to additional stratification. The container is sent to a cool room (± 4 ° C) for 14-21 days. When 3-4 full-fledged leaves appear, the seedlings are picked into separate containers.
The most convenient method of propagation of any icterus is considered to be seed. Annual jaundice can be obtained both by the seedling method and by sowing directly into the soil. With the latter option, crops are carried out either in the spring (in May) or before winter. For seedlings, jaundice is sown according to the standard technique, slightly covering with soil and necessarily protecting the crops with glass or film. Seeds will germinate at a temperature of about 1 degrees, the process of emergence of seedlings takes a little more than 1 week. Seedlings in the soil are thinned out, leaving a distance of 15-20 cm between plants. Seedlings dive when the second pair of true leaves appear in individual containers or large containers with the same distance between shoots. They are transferred to open soil in May-June. On average, annual jaundices bloom 2 months after sowing the seeds.
You can sow before winter and early spring. Seeds do not need stratification. Sow to a depth of 1 cm. In the first year, a rosette of leaves and a tuberous root 1.5–2 cm in diameter grow. Plants begin to bloom from the second year. Norichnik is very winter-hardy, it does not need shelter for the winter.
The plant is propagated by seeds, which are sown in April, in boxes filled with a nutritious, loose substrate. Seeds require preliminary stratification (at a temperature of about 5 degrees) for 2-3 months. Common flaxseed reproduces well by self-sowing. Seeds do not deepen much, germinate at room temperature, in a bright place. The grown seedlings are thinned out. Seedlings are planted in open ground at the end of May. The distance between seedlings depends on the height of the bush.
The plant prefers to grow in light, well-drained and fertile soils with a neutral reaction. The main thing is that there is no stagnation of moisture. Choose a sunny or slightly shaded landing site. The flower does not need frequent watering, it can easily do without watering throughout the summer, being content with precipitation. For the winter, the plant does not require shelter. Common flax endures even the most severe winters.
The plant prefers to grow in light, well-drained and fertile soils with a neutral reaction. The main thing is that there is no stagnation of moisture. Choose a sunny or slightly shaded landing site. The flower does not need frequent watering, it can easily do without watering throughout the summer, being content with precipitation. For the winter, the plant does not require shelter. Common flax endures even the most severe winters.
In open ground.
The option is suitable for most regions of Russia. The sowing period starts from mid-May, provided that the soil warms up to + 13 ° and ends in mid-June. It is not recommended to sow the seeds later, as they will not have time to sprout and take root well. For sowing in open areas of soil, the seeds are combined with sand and sown in moist soil.
With seedlings.
This option is suitable for regions with a short summer. In spring, seeds are sown in special containers and grown to the state of young plants. During the growing period, seedlings are watered, fed, swooped if necessary. Sprouts are planted in open ground when the ground is sufficiently prepared.
The option is suitable for most regions of Russia. The sowing period starts from mid-May, provided that the soil warms up to + 13 ° and ends in mid-June. It is not recommended to sow the seeds later, as they will not have time to sprout and take root well. For sowing in open areas of soil, the seeds are combined with sand and sown in moist soil.
With seedlings.
This option is suitable for regions with a short summer. In spring, seeds are sown in special containers and grown to the state of young plants. During the growing period, seedlings are watered, fed, swooped if necessary. Sprouts are planted in open ground when the ground is sufficiently prepared.
Evening is usually grown through seedlings. Seeds are sown in the first days of April. To begin with, you need to pour pre-disinfected seedling soil into containers that are not too high, evenly distribute the seeds over its surface and cover them with a centimeter layer of peat combined with humus on top. Lightly tamp the surface of the crops, moisten them from a sprayer with well-settled water at room temperature. The container is covered with glass or film on top. Before the seedlings appear, as a rule, this happens after 17-20 days, the crops should be warm (about 20 degrees). During the mass germination of seeds, the film is removed from the container.
It is necessary to water the seedlings so that the substrate in the container is constantly slightly moist, and it is also necessary to regularly gently loosen its surface. During the formation of the first true leaf plates in the bushes, they begin to harden, for this, every day for half a month, the seedlings are taken out into the street (the duration of the procedure should be increased gradually). When the bushes are hardened, they can be planted in open ground.
For planting such flowers, it is recommended to choose a sunny area, but a shaded place is also perfect for this, in any case, the evening will bloom and grow equally well. The soil is moderately moist and loose, it is better if it is slightly alkaline or neutral. Before you start planting, the site must be prepared. To do this, they dig it, and if the soil is poor, then mineral fertilizers and organic matter are added to it. During planting, a distance of 0.35 to 0.45 m is observed between the bushes. The planting hole should have such a depth that the root system of the plant, taken together with a clod of earth, can fit in it. Planted seedlings need good watering.
It is necessary to water the seedlings so that the substrate in the container is constantly slightly moist, and it is also necessary to regularly gently loosen its surface. During the formation of the first true leaf plates in the bushes, they begin to harden, for this, every day for half a month, the seedlings are taken out into the street (the duration of the procedure should be increased gradually). When the bushes are hardened, they can be planted in open ground.
For planting such flowers, it is recommended to choose a sunny area, but a shaded place is also perfect for this, in any case, the evening will bloom and grow equally well. The soil is moderately moist and loose, it is better if it is slightly alkaline or neutral. Before you start planting, the site must be prepared. To do this, they dig it, and if the soil is poor, then mineral fertilizers and organic matter are added to it. During planting, a distance of 0.35 to 0.45 m is observed between the bushes. The planting hole should have such a depth that the root system of the plant, taken together with a clod of earth, can fit in it. Planted seedlings need good watering.
If desired, sowing seeds can be carried out directly in open soil, do this in October (before winter) or in spring. But the seedling method of growing such a plant is more reliable. So, for starters, soapwort seedlings are grown at home from seeds, which are then transplanted into open ground.
Sowing seeds for seedlings, as well as caring for seedlings, is very simple and does not take much time. Sowing seeds for seedlings is carried out in mid-March, for this they use small boxes, which are filled with loose moistened soil mixture. The seeds are covered with a thin layer of sand from above, after which the crops are carefully watered with a sprayer and covered with glass (film) on top. Then the container is transferred to a well-lit place, but the light must be diffused. The optimum air temperature for seed germination is at least 20 degrees. Immediately after the first seedlings appear, remove the shelter from the container. Seedlings of such a plant do not need special care. Remember that it can be damaged by direct sunlight and drafts. Systematically water the seedlings, and also do not forget to carefully loosen the surface of the soil mixture around the bushes. Picking into individual cups is carried out after 2 pairs of true leaf plates are formed in the plants. So that the bushes do not begin to stretch, they need to provide a sufficiently large amount of bright, but diffused light. The planting of the grown and strengthened seedlings of the soapwort in open soil is carried out only when the return spring frosts are left behind and the soil in the area warms up well. As a rule, this time falls on the second half of May. When about two weeks remain before planting the seedlings, you need to start hardening them.
Sowing seeds for seedlings, as well as caring for seedlings, is very simple and does not take much time. Sowing seeds for seedlings is carried out in mid-March, for this they use small boxes, which are filled with loose moistened soil mixture. The seeds are covered with a thin layer of sand from above, after which the crops are carefully watered with a sprayer and covered with glass (film) on top. Then the container is transferred to a well-lit place, but the light must be diffused. The optimum air temperature for seed germination is at least 20 degrees. Immediately after the first seedlings appear, remove the shelter from the container. Seedlings of such a plant do not need special care. Remember that it can be damaged by direct sunlight and drafts. Systematically water the seedlings, and also do not forget to carefully loosen the surface of the soil mixture around the bushes. Picking into individual cups is carried out after 2 pairs of true leaf plates are formed in the plants. So that the bushes do not begin to stretch, they need to provide a sufficiently large amount of bright, but diffused light. The planting of the grown and strengthened seedlings of the soapwort in open soil is carried out only when the return spring frosts are left behind and the soil in the area warms up well. As a rule, this time falls on the second half of May. When about two weeks remain before planting the seedlings, you need to start hardening them.
The sowing depth is 0.5-1 cm. It is not necessary to deepen it strongly, since the seeds are small. You can plant seeds before winter or spring. When planted in autumn, the seeds will undergo natural stratification and sprout in the spring. If the seeds are planned to be planted in the spring, then it is necessary to stratify at home for 2-3 months in a moist substrate (for example, sand) in the refrigerator. In the spring (March-April), the seeds are sown finely, directly into the ground. Seedlings rise very beautifully, evenly, without requiring shelter. Sprouts grow very slowly, flowering will begin only after 3-4 years.
Also, plants can be pre-planted in pots. Sowing date - January-March. Seeds are best placed in multi-tiered trays, covering with a thin layer of vermiculite (for germination), which provides sufficient moisture. The temperature of the substrate during germination should be 18-21 °C. By lowering the temperature at night to 6 °C, seed germination can be accelerated. Shoots will appear in 2-3 weeks. After this period, the temperature should be gradually reduced to 16-18 °C. After another 4 weeks, the seedlings dive into larger pallets, after another 6-8 weeks they can be planted in pots.
Also, plants can be pre-planted in pots. Sowing date - January-March. Seeds are best placed in multi-tiered trays, covering with a thin layer of vermiculite (for germination), which provides sufficient moisture. The temperature of the substrate during germination should be 18-21 °C. By lowering the temperature at night to 6 °C, seed germination can be accelerated. Shoots will appear in 2-3 weeks. After this period, the temperature should be gradually reduced to 16-18 °C. After another 4 weeks, the seedlings dive into larger pallets, after another 6-8 weeks they can be planted in pots.
Sowing can be done in the fall, deepening them 2 cm into previously prepared soil. During the winter, the seeds undergo stratification and germinate successfully with the onset of warm spring days. There is another way to sow seeds. Seeds are sown in February - early March in small containers and covered with film. Crops are stored in a cool place with a temperature of +15–+18 degrees. When the first leaves appear, the seedlings are planted in separate pots, and in the summer the grown seedlings are planted in open ground.
Preparing for planting: Soak the seeds in water at room temperature. You can dilute potassium permanganate with water and place seeds in it. After 24 hours, remove the grains. Sprouted seeds will sprout faster.
Rice can be planted in spring or fall. Make long furrows or medium-sized holes. Fill them with water. Place the seeds evenly. Cover them with a layer of soil. Water again.
It is important to keep the rice beds hydrated. Under optimal conditions, sprouts will appear within a week. In cold climates, rice grows slowly and does not have time to ripen before frost.
If you planted plants in boxes, it is recommended to move them to a warm place in cool weather.
When the sprouts rise by about 2 cm, the bed begins to be filled with water. So that the water “stands” in it. Don't be afraid, the seedlings won't rot. On the contrary, they will feel great.
Don't plant seeds too far apart. Rice doesn't grow much. A distance of 10 cm will be sufficient. Within a month, the sprouts grow up to 20 cm.
If you decide to plant rice using seedlings, then you need to plant sprouts that have reached 2 cm in the ground.
Rice can be planted in spring or fall. Make long furrows or medium-sized holes. Fill them with water. Place the seeds evenly. Cover them with a layer of soil. Water again.
It is important to keep the rice beds hydrated. Under optimal conditions, sprouts will appear within a week. In cold climates, rice grows slowly and does not have time to ripen before frost.
If you planted plants in boxes, it is recommended to move them to a warm place in cool weather.
When the sprouts rise by about 2 cm, the bed begins to be filled with water. So that the water “stands” in it. Don't be afraid, the seedlings won't rot. On the contrary, they will feel great.
Don't plant seeds too far apart. Rice doesn't grow much. A distance of 10 cm will be sufficient. Within a month, the sprouts grow up to 20 cm.
If you decide to plant rice using seedlings, then you need to plant sprouts that have reached 2 cm in the ground.