Agrotechnics for Growing Vegetables from Seeds
Detailed recommendations for growing tomatoes, peppers, cucumbers, and other vegetables from seeds.
Important!
Seeds that have passed stratification, we send wet in perlite, and if you received dry seeds (without perlite), which means that they have not passed stratification and you, if it is required for seeds, need to stratify!
When growing crops in open ground, great importance is given to predecessors. It is best to plant beans after potatoes, cucumbers or pumpkins. Beans can be planted on the same plot only after 5 years. When planting in open soil, you need to use saturated dressings based on phosphorus and potassium. Very acidic soil is not suitable for bean sprouts. Therefore, it is best to use alkaline soil types. In some situations, a deoxidizer is used - for example, chalk or ash.
Sprouting beans for planting in the ground
Before planting beans in the ground, you must do the following:
- put the beans on a damp cloth and cover with a second layer;
- moisten slightly with water - while the material should not be too wet;
- wait 2-3 days for sprouts to appear - at this stage, germinated bean sprouts can be planted in the ground.
Sprouting beans for seedlings
Getting bean sprouts is possible in different ways. The most commonly used toilet paper rolls. To do this, you need to do the following:
- Put a layer of toilet paper on a strip of cellophane.
- Moisten it with water using a syringe.
- Place the seeds on top, observing an interval of 0.5-1 cm.
- After laying out the grains along the top edge, cover with another layer of moistened toilet paper.
- Roll up the strip.
- Place the free edge in a container with water.
After a few days, sprouts will appear. After 1-1.5 weeks, the beans can be planted in open ground.
Sprouting beans for planting in the ground
Before planting beans in the ground, you must do the following:
- put the beans on a damp cloth and cover with a second layer;
- moisten slightly with water - while the material should not be too wet;
- wait 2-3 days for sprouts to appear - at this stage, germinated bean sprouts can be planted in the ground.
Sprouting beans for seedlings
Getting bean sprouts is possible in different ways. The most commonly used toilet paper rolls. To do this, you need to do the following:
- Put a layer of toilet paper on a strip of cellophane.
- Moisten it with water using a syringe.
- Place the seeds on top, observing an interval of 0.5-1 cm.
- After laying out the grains along the top edge, cover with another layer of moistened toilet paper.
- Roll up the strip.
- Place the free edge in a container with water.
After a few days, sprouts will appear. After 1-1.5 weeks, the beans can be planted in open ground.
Due to their cold resistance and fast germination, seeds can be sown at almost the same time - both in Siberia and in the Moscow region. In terms of time, this turns out to be approximately mid-April and early May. But it is better to navigate not by dates, but by the average daily temperature. Young plants can withstand night frosts down to -5 degrees, and zero temperatures are enough for seeds to germinate.
Turnip loves slightly acidic soil, so you can fertilize it with wood ash, fermented chicken manure. But if we are confident in the quality of the soil, then we can do without fertilizer and immediately start sowing. To do this, perform the following steps.
1. If the land is dry, we moisten the soil well the day before sowing. Approximately 30 liters per 1 sq. m.
2. We level the soil dug up in advance with a rake and slightly compact it.
3. We outline with a garden tool or just a hand between the beds a distance of 20-30 cm.
4. The depth of the groove is 1.5-2 cm.
5. Plentifully water the grooves.
6. We plant seeds, trying not to do this often.
7. We fill the grooves with the sown seeds with earth.
8. Pour the entire garden with water from a watering can so that the top layer of soil is evenly saturated with moisture.
9. To preserve moisture, some cover the beds with a film, which is removed after the first shoots appear. You can not do this, but then you need to monitor the upper part of the soil so that it does not dry out.
When can we expect the first sprouts? Usually, if it is +15 degrees outside, the first shoots will hatch in 6 days.
If last year cucumbers, zucchini, legumes, tomatoes and corn grew on the land where you are going to plant turnips - great! They are her best predecessors. But after cabbage, radish and radish, it is better not to plant turnips.
Turnip loves slightly acidic soil, so you can fertilize it with wood ash, fermented chicken manure. But if we are confident in the quality of the soil, then we can do without fertilizer and immediately start sowing. To do this, perform the following steps.
1. If the land is dry, we moisten the soil well the day before sowing. Approximately 30 liters per 1 sq. m.
2. We level the soil dug up in advance with a rake and slightly compact it.
3. We outline with a garden tool or just a hand between the beds a distance of 20-30 cm.
4. The depth of the groove is 1.5-2 cm.
5. Plentifully water the grooves.
6. We plant seeds, trying not to do this often.
7. We fill the grooves with the sown seeds with earth.
8. Pour the entire garden with water from a watering can so that the top layer of soil is evenly saturated with moisture.
9. To preserve moisture, some cover the beds with a film, which is removed after the first shoots appear. You can not do this, but then you need to monitor the upper part of the soil so that it does not dry out.
When can we expect the first sprouts? Usually, if it is +15 degrees outside, the first shoots will hatch in 6 days.
If last year cucumbers, zucchini, legumes, tomatoes and corn grew on the land where you are going to plant turnips - great! They are her best predecessors. But after cabbage, radish and radish, it is better not to plant turnips.
Before sowing, the seeds are soaked in water or a damp cloth for a day, while they may swell a little. Then they need to be disinfected with a bright solution of potassium permanganate - this will serve as a prevention of many diseases. At this stage, you can further enrich the seeds with useful trace elements using growth stimulants. After these procedures, the seeds must be dried.
Spring Planting
In spring, the width between the grooves is made at least 10 cm, preferably 15. The distance between the seeds should be at least 5 cm. Another option - to sow thickly and then thin out - is not the best: the root system of plants does not like outside interference. When thinning, it can be damaged, the root crop will not form, the plant will go into reproduction mode. Seeds are covered with loose earth and lightly tamped - this improves contact with the soil and promotes rapid germination. You do not need to water the ground, but you will need to sprinkle it with peat or humus. To protect the culture from the cold, the bed is covered with polyethylene from 17:00 until morning. Under favorable weather conditions, the first leaves will appear in 3-4 days.
Summer landing
In summer, radishes are rarely planted. To save space and provide the necessary shade for radishes, they are planted between other crops, such as tomatoes or young strawberries. The distance between seeds must be increased to 10 cm.
If a separate bed is allocated for radishes, then from 18:00 until morning it must be covered with opaque material, artificially shortening daylight hours. If this is not done, the root crop will not form, shooting will begin.
Autumn landing
Late-ripening varieties are planted after other crops. Since the fruits of these varieties are large, the distance between them must be increased: between seedlings - at least 15 cm, between rows - 20 cm.
Landing "before winter"
When sowing “before winter”, the rows are made at the same distance as for spring sowing. Seeds and soil must be dry. The seed is placed in the furrows, covered with earth and compacted. Then you need to pour 2 cm of peat, and if it snows, then fill it with a bed.
Spring Planting
In spring, the width between the grooves is made at least 10 cm, preferably 15. The distance between the seeds should be at least 5 cm. Another option - to sow thickly and then thin out - is not the best: the root system of plants does not like outside interference. When thinning, it can be damaged, the root crop will not form, the plant will go into reproduction mode. Seeds are covered with loose earth and lightly tamped - this improves contact with the soil and promotes rapid germination. You do not need to water the ground, but you will need to sprinkle it with peat or humus. To protect the culture from the cold, the bed is covered with polyethylene from 17:00 until morning. Under favorable weather conditions, the first leaves will appear in 3-4 days.
Summer landing
In summer, radishes are rarely planted. To save space and provide the necessary shade for radishes, they are planted between other crops, such as tomatoes or young strawberries. The distance between seeds must be increased to 10 cm.
If a separate bed is allocated for radishes, then from 18:00 until morning it must be covered with opaque material, artificially shortening daylight hours. If this is not done, the root crop will not form, shooting will begin.
Autumn landing
Late-ripening varieties are planted after other crops. Since the fruits of these varieties are large, the distance between them must be increased: between seedlings - at least 15 cm, between rows - 20 cm.
Landing "before winter"
When sowing “before winter”, the rows are made at the same distance as for spring sowing. Seeds and soil must be dry. The seed is placed in the furrows, covered with earth and compacted. Then you need to pour 2 cm of peat, and if it snows, then fill it with a bed.
The standard method of planting carrots in open ground in spring:
1. It is necessary to make grooves (grooves) in the garden, their depth is 2-3 centimeters, the distance between them is 15-20 centimeters.
2. Water the grooves with hot water.
3. After that, it is recommended to lightly sprinkle the furrows with wood ash and, if possible, with tobacco dust (for the prevention of pests).
4. Now you need to sow the seeds in the grooves. The optimal distance between them during landing is 2-3 centimeters.
5. Fill the grooves with fertile soil and lightly compact the soil in the grooves.
6. After that, it is recommended to cover the bed with agrofibre, the manipulation will keep the soil moisture and heat in the soil and, therefore, help the seeds germinate faster. But at the same time, it is necessary to regularly monitor the bed, and after the germination of seedlings (after about 1-2 weeks), you must immediately remove the covering material, otherwise the seedlings will rot.
The basic rules of agricultural technology for growing and caring for carrots in a garden in the open field:
1. The culture is very demanding on watering. With a lack or excess of moisture, the root crop grows crooked, deformed, cracked. Especially often, carrots need to be watered after planting at the beginning of growth, and then, when the plant grows a developed root system, watering is less frequent. A month before harvesting, you need to stop applying moisture.
2. It is necessary to loosen regularly (preferably after each watering). The procedure improves the supply of oxygen to the roots, which has a beneficial effect on the formation of the root crop.
3. Weeds must not be allowed to grow, weeds must be weeded in a timely manner.
4. Thinning is the most important event when caring for carrots (provided that you have not previously planted in a way without thinning). The procedure helps to remove excessive thickening so that all plants can receive enough nutrients for growth and root formation.
1. It is necessary to make grooves (grooves) in the garden, their depth is 2-3 centimeters, the distance between them is 15-20 centimeters.
2. Water the grooves with hot water.
3. After that, it is recommended to lightly sprinkle the furrows with wood ash and, if possible, with tobacco dust (for the prevention of pests).
4. Now you need to sow the seeds in the grooves. The optimal distance between them during landing is 2-3 centimeters.
5. Fill the grooves with fertile soil and lightly compact the soil in the grooves.
6. After that, it is recommended to cover the bed with agrofibre, the manipulation will keep the soil moisture and heat in the soil and, therefore, help the seeds germinate faster. But at the same time, it is necessary to regularly monitor the bed, and after the germination of seedlings (after about 1-2 weeks), you must immediately remove the covering material, otherwise the seedlings will rot.
The basic rules of agricultural technology for growing and caring for carrots in a garden in the open field:
1. The culture is very demanding on watering. With a lack or excess of moisture, the root crop grows crooked, deformed, cracked. Especially often, carrots need to be watered after planting at the beginning of growth, and then, when the plant grows a developed root system, watering is less frequent. A month before harvesting, you need to stop applying moisture.
2. It is necessary to loosen regularly (preferably after each watering). The procedure improves the supply of oxygen to the roots, which has a beneficial effect on the formation of the root crop.
3. Weeds must not be allowed to grow, weeds must be weeded in a timely manner.
4. Thinning is the most important event when caring for carrots (provided that you have not previously planted in a way without thinning). The procedure helps to remove excessive thickening so that all plants can receive enough nutrients for growth and root formation.
The timing of sowing cabbage varies from the selected variety. So, seedlings of early cabbage in some regions can be planted in open ground as early as the end of April. This means that seeds should be sown in mid-February - early March. Saplings of medium varieties are planted in the garden in mid-May, and late ones - in late May - early June. Accordingly, medium varieties are sown for seedlings in early April, and late ones at the end of the month.
It is not possible to determine the exact dates for sowing cabbage, because they will vary in different regions. In this regard, each gardener must calculate the timing himself, taking into account climatic conditions. It is not difficult to determine the term for sowing seedlings, given that from the moment of sowing the seeds to the emergence of seedlings, an average of 5-10 days passes, and from the appearance of the first shoots to the time of transplanting seedlings into the ground - 35-50 days. Accordingly, it is necessary to sow cabbage for seedlings 40-60 days before planting it in the ground.
Landing Instructions:
First of all, it is necessary to pour a drainage layer on the bottom of the landing tank. Expanded clay, pebbles are perfect as drainage.
Then you need to fill the box with pre-prepared soil and water it abundantly.
Make small grooves on the surface of the soil, between them there should be a distance of 4 centimeters.
Sow according to the following scheme: place the seeds at a depth of one centimeter, between the seeds it is optimal to observe a distance of 2 centimeters.
Gently sprinkle the seeds with soil, lightly tamp.
Spray from a spray bottle, use clean, settled water.
Cover the container with film or glass and transfer to a warm, sunny place.
Landing instructions
When sowing, each step is important to perform correctly. The following step-by-step instructions for planting cabbage seeds for seedlings will help you complete the procedure successfully:
First of all, it is necessary to pour a drainage layer on the bottom of the landing tank. Expanded clay, pebbles are perfect as drainage.
Then you need to fill the box with pre-prepared soil and water it abundantly.
Make small grooves on the surface of the soil, between them there should be a distance of 4 centimeters.
Sow according to the following scheme: place the seeds at a depth of one centimeter, between the seeds it is optimal to observe a distance of 2 centimeters.
Gently sprinkle the seeds with soil, lightly tamp.
Spray from a spray bottle, use clean, settled water.
Cover the container with film or glass and transfer to a warm, sunny place.
The term for picking cabbage seedlings is determined by the state of the plant - seedlings should be in the phase of one or two true leaves. The soil can be used the same as for sowing. But as a landing capacity, you can choose both individual and common container or bulk cassettes. The main thing is that the diameter of individual containers should be 5-7 centimeters, and landing in a common box should be carried out according to the 5x5 centimeters scheme.
Cabbage seedlings should be transplanted when the plant has four to five true leaves. Before planting, it is imperative to harden the seedlings ten days before the event. And also cruciferous predecessors are unacceptable in such a site.
It is not possible to determine the exact dates for sowing cabbage, because they will vary in different regions. In this regard, each gardener must calculate the timing himself, taking into account climatic conditions. It is not difficult to determine the term for sowing seedlings, given that from the moment of sowing the seeds to the emergence of seedlings, an average of 5-10 days passes, and from the appearance of the first shoots to the time of transplanting seedlings into the ground - 35-50 days. Accordingly, it is necessary to sow cabbage for seedlings 40-60 days before planting it in the ground.
Landing Instructions:
First of all, it is necessary to pour a drainage layer on the bottom of the landing tank. Expanded clay, pebbles are perfect as drainage.
Then you need to fill the box with pre-prepared soil and water it abundantly.
Make small grooves on the surface of the soil, between them there should be a distance of 4 centimeters.
Sow according to the following scheme: place the seeds at a depth of one centimeter, between the seeds it is optimal to observe a distance of 2 centimeters.
Gently sprinkle the seeds with soil, lightly tamp.
Spray from a spray bottle, use clean, settled water.
Cover the container with film or glass and transfer to a warm, sunny place.
Landing instructions
When sowing, each step is important to perform correctly. The following step-by-step instructions for planting cabbage seeds for seedlings will help you complete the procedure successfully:
First of all, it is necessary to pour a drainage layer on the bottom of the landing tank. Expanded clay, pebbles are perfect as drainage.
Then you need to fill the box with pre-prepared soil and water it abundantly.
Make small grooves on the surface of the soil, between them there should be a distance of 4 centimeters.
Sow according to the following scheme: place the seeds at a depth of one centimeter, between the seeds it is optimal to observe a distance of 2 centimeters.
Gently sprinkle the seeds with soil, lightly tamp.
Spray from a spray bottle, use clean, settled water.
Cover the container with film or glass and transfer to a warm, sunny place.
The term for picking cabbage seedlings is determined by the state of the plant - seedlings should be in the phase of one or two true leaves. The soil can be used the same as for sowing. But as a landing capacity, you can choose both individual and common container or bulk cassettes. The main thing is that the diameter of individual containers should be 5-7 centimeters, and landing in a common box should be carried out according to the 5x5 centimeters scheme.
Cabbage seedlings should be transplanted when the plant has four to five true leaves. Before planting, it is imperative to harden the seedlings ten days before the event. And also cruciferous predecessors are unacceptable in such a site.
Peas are an easy-to-care early crop. The plant is grown in a seedless way by direct sowing of seeds in the ground. After planting, the first shoots are shown after 5-10 days. Young shoots can tolerate without damage a temperature drop of up to -6 degrees, and flowering plants - up to +2 degrees. The optimum temperature for the formation of ovaries ranges from +12 to +15 degrees, for the growth of beans - from +17 to +21. Due to its high frost resistance, the plant is grown almost throughout Russia, including the central and northwestern regions.
Since pea seeds germinate at a temperature of +1 degrees, the crop is sown early enough in open ground. Sowing time is chosen based on the climatic characteristics of the region where the site is located, and weather conditions. In Siberia, the beginning of May is considered a favorable period for planting legumes, in the central regions - the first decade of April. In areas with a milder climate, peas can be sown from mid-March. For sowing pea seeds, choose a site with light, fertile soil. Not suitable for acidic and nitrogen-rich soil. Peas are photophilous, so for planting, choose illuminated areas protected from drafts.
You can warm up the seed immediately before planting by flooding the seeds with water at about 50 degrees for 5 minutes. After warming up, the peas must be thoroughly dried with a napkin or laid out in the sun.
Having completed all the preparatory work, you can start sowing seeds. The technology for planting peas is as follows:
On the prepared site, make grooves 5-8 cm deep. The distance between rows should be at least 40-50 cm.
Sprinkle the furrows with a mixture of wood ash, compost and fertile soil in a layer of 2-3 cm.
Rinse the furrows liberally with water.
Sow the seeds at a distance of 5-6 cm from each other.
Fill the furrows with soil and tamp it down.
Peas are undemanding in care. If you have properly prepared the site and sown the seeds, then the plants will not cause you much trouble. Pea care consists in timely watering, loosening the soil, regular feeding. Some varieties also require a garter.
Since pea seeds germinate at a temperature of +1 degrees, the crop is sown early enough in open ground. Sowing time is chosen based on the climatic characteristics of the region where the site is located, and weather conditions. In Siberia, the beginning of May is considered a favorable period for planting legumes, in the central regions - the first decade of April. In areas with a milder climate, peas can be sown from mid-March. For sowing pea seeds, choose a site with light, fertile soil. Not suitable for acidic and nitrogen-rich soil. Peas are photophilous, so for planting, choose illuminated areas protected from drafts.
You can warm up the seed immediately before planting by flooding the seeds with water at about 50 degrees for 5 minutes. After warming up, the peas must be thoroughly dried with a napkin or laid out in the sun.
Having completed all the preparatory work, you can start sowing seeds. The technology for planting peas is as follows:
On the prepared site, make grooves 5-8 cm deep. The distance between rows should be at least 40-50 cm.
Sprinkle the furrows with a mixture of wood ash, compost and fertile soil in a layer of 2-3 cm.
Rinse the furrows liberally with water.
Sow the seeds at a distance of 5-6 cm from each other.
Fill the furrows with soil and tamp it down.
Peas are undemanding in care. If you have properly prepared the site and sown the seeds, then the plants will not cause you much trouble. Pea care consists in timely watering, loosening the soil, regular feeding. Some varieties also require a garter.
Planting for seedlings: If you decide to grow a swede, then the first thing to do is to sow its seeds for seedlings. If the seedlings are grown indoors, then they will be under reliable protection from the cruciferous flea and other harmful insects. Before starting sowing, the seeds should be prepared, for this they are placed in a solution of garlic for 1 hour, to prepare it, you need to combine 100 milligrams of water with 25 grams of garlic, which must first be crushed. Then the seeds washed in clean water must be thoroughly dried. Experienced gardeners advise germinating seeds before sowing. To do this, they are wrapped in a moistened cloth, where they will be until such time as small white sprouts appear.
Sowing of seeds is carried out in the first days of April 40 days before transplanting seedlings into open soil. For this, deep boxes are used, which are filled with a moistened substrate. When sowing, seeds should be buried in the soil mixture by 10–15 mm. So that the crops are not excessively thick, it is recommended to combine the seed before sowing with sifted peat or tooth powder, which are taken in equal parts. The distance between seeds in a row should be from 20 to 30 mm, with a row spacing of 60–70 mm. The container with crops on top must be covered with glass or film, then it is removed to a fairly cool place (17–18 degrees). After the first seedlings appear, the film must be removed from the box, and it must be transferred to a colder place (from 6 to 8 degrees), after 7 days the crops must be rearranged to a warmer place (from 12 to 15 degrees). Seedlings must be systematically watered, the surface of the substrate must be loosened, and seedlings must also be thinned out.
Planting in open ground: Experts do not recommend picking seedlings of this crop, since during the procedure, the roots of plants can be easily injured. To avoid picking, it is necessary to use sufficiently deep drawers for growing seedlings. 10–12 days before planting seedlings in open soil, they begin to harden it. The planting of the grown seedlings of rutabaga in open soil is carried out when 40–50 days have passed since the sowing of the seeds, while the plants should have 4 or 5 formed leaf plates. The weather also affects the time of planting rutabaga in open soil, but in most cases this procedure is carried out in mid-May. Before planting in the garden, the plant must be watered very well.
Neutral soil is suitable for growing this plant. The best predecessors of fodder beets are cucumbers, legumes, melons, bell peppers, zucchini, tomatoes, pumpkins, eggplants, squash, and potatoes. In the area where cruciferous plants (radish, radish, turnip, daikon, turnip, watercress, horseradish and any cabbage) grew, such a crop can be grown only after 4-5 years.
Sowing of seeds is carried out in the first days of April 40 days before transplanting seedlings into open soil. For this, deep boxes are used, which are filled with a moistened substrate. When sowing, seeds should be buried in the soil mixture by 10–15 mm. So that the crops are not excessively thick, it is recommended to combine the seed before sowing with sifted peat or tooth powder, which are taken in equal parts. The distance between seeds in a row should be from 20 to 30 mm, with a row spacing of 60–70 mm. The container with crops on top must be covered with glass or film, then it is removed to a fairly cool place (17–18 degrees). After the first seedlings appear, the film must be removed from the box, and it must be transferred to a colder place (from 6 to 8 degrees), after 7 days the crops must be rearranged to a warmer place (from 12 to 15 degrees). Seedlings must be systematically watered, the surface of the substrate must be loosened, and seedlings must also be thinned out.
Planting in open ground: Experts do not recommend picking seedlings of this crop, since during the procedure, the roots of plants can be easily injured. To avoid picking, it is necessary to use sufficiently deep drawers for growing seedlings. 10–12 days before planting seedlings in open soil, they begin to harden it. The planting of the grown seedlings of rutabaga in open soil is carried out when 40–50 days have passed since the sowing of the seeds, while the plants should have 4 or 5 formed leaf plates. The weather also affects the time of planting rutabaga in open soil, but in most cases this procedure is carried out in mid-May. Before planting in the garden, the plant must be watered very well.
Neutral soil is suitable for growing this plant. The best predecessors of fodder beets are cucumbers, legumes, melons, bell peppers, zucchini, tomatoes, pumpkins, eggplants, squash, and potatoes. In the area where cruciferous plants (radish, radish, turnip, daikon, turnip, watercress, horseradish and any cabbage) grew, such a crop can be grown only after 4-5 years.
The choice of time for sowing. The sowing time for eggplant seeds can be determined as follows. The period of seed germination before sowing is 14-16 days, the growing time of eggplant seedlings is 60-68 days (it depends on the variety).
Eggplants are planted in greenhouses on May 15-20. So it turns out that you need to soak the seeds before sowing on March 2 - 15.
Germination of seeds. If you do not carry it out, but immediately sow the seeds in a seedling container, then they will hatch at least two weeks later. Therefore, the germination of seeds before sowing must be carried out.
For germination, you can use small gauze bags in which you place seeds of one variety (in each bag).
You can take two gauze napkins (one will cover the other). Wet napkins (or bags) well with a solution of Zircon and Cytovit biostimulant growth (4 drops per glass of water). Spread the small seeds on a wet paper towel. Cover with the same napkin on top and put in a warm place with a temperature of +25 ... +26 degrees. Moisten the wipes regularly (but at the same time they should not float in the water, but only be very wet). After 2 weeks, eggplant seeds should hatch, and it will be possible to start sowing them.
Priming. To fill the planting containers, use ready-made soil for growing seedlings of vegetable crops. It contains all the necessary nutrients for normal growth and development of seedlings.
Capacity selection. Some gardeners use wooden or plastic boxes to grow seedlings. And after the appearance of 4 true leaves, eggplant seedlings dive into plastic or peat glasses with a diameter of 8–10 cm. But we do not recommend that you dive eggplant seedlings. Their roots are very weak, and any transplant will severely injure the plants. Therefore, it is better to immediately sow 2 seeds in separate containers - peat pots or plastic glasses with a diameter of 10 cm. It is even better to sow the seeds in peat tablets, well soaked in water before sowing and placed in plastic pallets.
Sowing eggplant seeds. Eggplant seeds are very small, so we recommend that you use a dry match to sow them, with which you can easily select each seed from a wet napkin (they quickly stick to a match). Place two seeds in each sowing container, and lightly press them into the soil to a depth of 4 - 5 mm. Then water the soil well with a pipette or syringe.
Germination of eggplant seedlings. Cover containers with crops installed on pallets with a transparent film and place in a warm room with a temperature of + 25 ... + 26 degrees (not higher). Never install them near the battery. Raise the film every other day to water the crops and give them an influx of oxygen. In a week, the first shoots will appear. Then remove the film and place the seedling trays on the window. It is desirable that it faces south or southwest. The temperature in the room can be lowered to + 22 ... + 24 degrees. But in no case do not open the window on the window where there are containers with seedlings!
Also protect young seedlings from drafts!
Eggplants are planted in greenhouses on May 15-20. So it turns out that you need to soak the seeds before sowing on March 2 - 15.
Germination of seeds. If you do not carry it out, but immediately sow the seeds in a seedling container, then they will hatch at least two weeks later. Therefore, the germination of seeds before sowing must be carried out.
For germination, you can use small gauze bags in which you place seeds of one variety (in each bag).
You can take two gauze napkins (one will cover the other). Wet napkins (or bags) well with a solution of Zircon and Cytovit biostimulant growth (4 drops per glass of water). Spread the small seeds on a wet paper towel. Cover with the same napkin on top and put in a warm place with a temperature of +25 ... +26 degrees. Moisten the wipes regularly (but at the same time they should not float in the water, but only be very wet). After 2 weeks, eggplant seeds should hatch, and it will be possible to start sowing them.
Priming. To fill the planting containers, use ready-made soil for growing seedlings of vegetable crops. It contains all the necessary nutrients for normal growth and development of seedlings.
Capacity selection. Some gardeners use wooden or plastic boxes to grow seedlings. And after the appearance of 4 true leaves, eggplant seedlings dive into plastic or peat glasses with a diameter of 8–10 cm. But we do not recommend that you dive eggplant seedlings. Their roots are very weak, and any transplant will severely injure the plants. Therefore, it is better to immediately sow 2 seeds in separate containers - peat pots or plastic glasses with a diameter of 10 cm. It is even better to sow the seeds in peat tablets, well soaked in water before sowing and placed in plastic pallets.
Sowing eggplant seeds. Eggplant seeds are very small, so we recommend that you use a dry match to sow them, with which you can easily select each seed from a wet napkin (they quickly stick to a match). Place two seeds in each sowing container, and lightly press them into the soil to a depth of 4 - 5 mm. Then water the soil well with a pipette or syringe.
Germination of eggplant seedlings. Cover containers with crops installed on pallets with a transparent film and place in a warm room with a temperature of + 25 ... + 26 degrees (not higher). Never install them near the battery. Raise the film every other day to water the crops and give them an influx of oxygen. In a week, the first shoots will appear. Then remove the film and place the seedling trays on the window. It is desirable that it faces south or southwest. The temperature in the room can be lowered to + 22 ... + 24 degrees. But in no case do not open the window on the window where there are containers with seedlings!
Also protect young seedlings from drafts!
In the middle lane, melon is grown in seedlings. Growing seedlings of melon begins with preparation for sowing. Large melon seeds are dipped for 20 minutes in a two percent solution of potassium permanganate (a teaspoon of potassium permanganate without top is dissolved in one and a half glasses of water). You can also hold the seeds for 12 hours in a five percent solution of boric acid and zinc sulfate, then rinse and dry. Planting melons for seedlings is carried out in mid-April. In peat pots with a diameter of 10 cm, 2-3 seeds are planted to a depth of 1.5-2 cm. The soil mixture for growing seedlings of melon should consist of nine parts of peat and one part of sand. 10 liters of soil mixture must be thoroughly mixed with a glass of wood ash. Until germination, seed pots should be kept at 20-25 ºC during the day, and night temperatures should not exceed 18 ºC. As soon as shoots appear, and this will happen in about a week, the strongest sprout is left in the pot, and the rest are not pulled out, but cut off at the surface level so as not to injure the root system of the remaining seedling. After the appearance of three pairs of true leaves in the seedlings, the seedlings are pinched, stimulating the development of side shoots. They contain emerging shoots on the southern windowsill, but if you do not have such an opportunity, you will have to organize daily artificial illumination of seedlings with fluorescent lamps for 10-12 hours. Caring for melon seedlings consists in timely moistening the soil with warm water, and the first watering after sowing the seeds is carried out when the seedlings develop one true leaf, but it is very important that water does not fall on the leaves and stems of the seedlings. If you are afraid that the seedlings may get sick with a black leg, sprinkle the surface of the soil with dry sand. During the period of growing melon seedlings, it is advisable to carry out two top dressings with a solution of complex mineral fertilizers, and a week before transplanting seedlings into the ground, hardening procedures begin: during the day the temperature is lowered to 15-17 ºC, and at night - to 12-15 ºC, gradually making more and more long ventilation sessions. Melons, like other cucurbits, do not dive, because their seedlings do not tolerate transplanting very well. That is why pumpkin seeds are sown in separate cups. Planting a melon in the ground is carried out when the seedlings are 4-5 weeks old, and the seedlings develop 5-6 true leaves. However, one should not rush to plant seedlings; it is necessary to wait until warm weather sets in. If, after planting the seedlings in the ground, frosts occur, you can cover the seedlings with a film for this time.
How to plant zucchini seeds at the dacha in open ground
We make shallow holes in the garden bed (no more than 5 cm). Add a handful of humus and 1 tbsp to the hole. l. ash, mix with soil, pour the hole well with water and put 1-2 seeds sprouted in advance. Of course, you can plant dry seeds, but such seeds will sprout much later. So the choice is yours, whether to plant sprouted or dry seeds.
The hole with the seeds is buried with earth and watered abundantly. In a few days, shoots should appear. To prevent them from suffering from return frosts, place arches on the bed and cover the plantings with covering material. As soon as constant warm weather sets in, the shelter is removed from the garden bed.
Water the zucchini as the soil dries out. In hot weather, watering is carried out daily or every day. The first fertilizing is carried out a week after the emergence of seedlings with nitrogen fertilizers:
urea solution - 1 matchbox per 1 bucket of water,
liquid organic fertilizers - 1 liter of mother infusion is diluted in 10 liters of water.
Later, fertilizing is carried out with an emphasis on phosphorus-potassium fertilizers. These elements are very necessary for the plant to set fruit. Feeding is carried out once every 2-3 weeks.
How to grow zucchini at home on the balcony
For those who do not have a summer house or a vegetable garden, it is quite possible to grow zucchini on a balcony or loggia. To do this, you will need a bag or 10-liter bucket, which is filled with nutritious soil purchased at the store.
3-4 days before planting, treat the seeds in a solution of potassium permanganate and place them in a cloth moistened with water for germination. When the seeds hatch, start planting them.
After filling the container with soil, water it well with warm water. Make a small hole and plant 2-3 seeds there. Level the hole and water again. Until the plant gets stronger, provide it with a daytime temperature within 23-25º C, and bring the bucket into the apartment at night. An important condition for growing on a balcony is at least 12 hours of daylight. Therefore, a vegetable planted in early spring needs to be provided with additional lighting.
We make shallow holes in the garden bed (no more than 5 cm). Add a handful of humus and 1 tbsp to the hole. l. ash, mix with soil, pour the hole well with water and put 1-2 seeds sprouted in advance. Of course, you can plant dry seeds, but such seeds will sprout much later. So the choice is yours, whether to plant sprouted or dry seeds.
The hole with the seeds is buried with earth and watered abundantly. In a few days, shoots should appear. To prevent them from suffering from return frosts, place arches on the bed and cover the plantings with covering material. As soon as constant warm weather sets in, the shelter is removed from the garden bed.
Water the zucchini as the soil dries out. In hot weather, watering is carried out daily or every day. The first fertilizing is carried out a week after the emergence of seedlings with nitrogen fertilizers:
urea solution - 1 matchbox per 1 bucket of water,
liquid organic fertilizers - 1 liter of mother infusion is diluted in 10 liters of water.
Later, fertilizing is carried out with an emphasis on phosphorus-potassium fertilizers. These elements are very necessary for the plant to set fruit. Feeding is carried out once every 2-3 weeks.
How to grow zucchini at home on the balcony
For those who do not have a summer house or a vegetable garden, it is quite possible to grow zucchini on a balcony or loggia. To do this, you will need a bag or 10-liter bucket, which is filled with nutritious soil purchased at the store.
3-4 days before planting, treat the seeds in a solution of potassium permanganate and place them in a cloth moistened with water for germination. When the seeds hatch, start planting them.
After filling the container with soil, water it well with warm water. Make a small hole and plant 2-3 seeds there. Level the hole and water again. Until the plant gets stronger, provide it with a daytime temperature within 23-25º C, and bring the bucket into the apartment at night. An important condition for growing on a balcony is at least 12 hours of daylight. Therefore, a vegetable planted in early spring needs to be provided with additional lighting.
In the middle lane, melon is grown in seedlings. Growing seedlings of melon begins with preparation for sowing. Large melon seeds are dipped for 20 minutes in a two percent solution of potassium permanganate (a teaspoon of potassium permanganate without top is dissolved in one and a half glasses of water). You can also hold the seeds for 12 hours in a five percent solution of boric acid and zinc sulfate, then rinse and dry. Planting melons for seedlings is carried out in mid-April. In peat pots with a diameter of 10 cm, 2-3 seeds are planted to a depth of 1.5-2 cm. The soil mixture for growing seedlings of melon should consist of nine parts of peat and one part of sand. 10 liters of soil mixture must be thoroughly mixed with a glass of wood ash. Until germination, seed pots should be kept at 20-25 ºC during the day, and night temperatures should not exceed 18 ºC. As soon as shoots appear, and this will happen in about a week, the strongest sprout is left in the pot, and the rest are not pulled out, but cut off at the surface level so as not to injure the root system of the remaining seedling. After the appearance of three pairs of true leaves in the seedlings, the seedlings are pinched, stimulating the development of side shoots. They contain emerging shoots on the southern windowsill, but if you do not have such an opportunity, you will have to organize daily artificial illumination of seedlings with fluorescent lamps for 10-12 hours. Caring for melon seedlings consists in timely moistening the soil with warm water, and the first watering after sowing the seeds is carried out when the seedlings develop one true leaf, but it is very important that water does not fall on the leaves and stems of the seedlings. If you are afraid that the seedlings may get sick with a black leg, sprinkle the surface of the soil with dry sand. During the period of growing melon seedlings, it is advisable to carry out two top dressings with a solution of complex mineral fertilizers, and a week before transplanting seedlings into the ground, hardening procedures begin: during the day the temperature is lowered to 15-17 ºC, and at night - to 12-15 ºC, gradually making more and more long ventilation sessions. Melons, like other cucurbits, do not dive, because their seedlings do not tolerate transplanting very well. That is why pumpkin seeds are sown in separate cups. Planting a melon in the ground is carried out when the seedlings are 4-5 weeks old, and the seedlings develop 5-6 true leaves. However, one should not rush to plant seedlings; it is necessary to wait until warm weather sets in. If, after planting the seedlings in the ground, frosts occur, you can cover the seedlings with a film for this time.
Sweet pepper in our latitudes is usually grown by seedling seed method. The timing of sowing seeds for seedlings depends on climatic conditions, however, in any case, sweet peppers are sown no later than the beginning of March. Planting pepper seedlings begins with pre-sowing treatment of seeds: first, they are dipped for five to six hours in water at a temperature of 50 ºC to swell, then, wrapped in a damp cloth, they wait 2-3 days at a temperature of about 20 ºC, when the seeds peck, and only after that they are sown in the ground. This preparation of seeds accelerates their germination. The soil for seedlings of pepper is prepared as follows: 2 cups of garden humus are mixed with 1 cup of sand, one cup of garden soil, add a spoon or two of wood ash, stir well and sterilize this mixture in the oven or in the microwave, after which it is still hot laid out in boxes, leveled , let it cool to 40-45 ºC and lay out the seeds on it at an interval of 5 cm from each other with a depth of 1-1.5 cm. But it is better to spread the seeds in peat pots, since the pepper does not tolerate picking well. Crops must be watered, and then cover seedling containers with polyethylene or glass and place in a warm place - the temperature required for seed germination is 21-22 ºC. Growing seedlings of pepper is not much different from growing seedlings of any other vegetable. As soon as the first shoots appear, the temperature in the room is raised to 26-28 ºC during the day, and at night the seedlings need coolness - 10-15 ºC. Keep an eye on the soil moisture in containers with seedlings - it should be moderate, because in too wet soil, plants can get sick with a black leg. However, drying of the soil should not be allowed. Water the seedlings with settled warm water - approximately 30 ºC, the seedlings get sick and die from cold water. Seedling care involves the creation of high humidity in the room, so seedlings should be sprayed from time to time. In addition, regular ventilation of the room is necessary, but do not let the seedlings get into a draft. You may need to provide seedlings with additional lighting, as they need to be in the light from 7 am to 9 pm. In the development phase of the seedlings of the first pair of leaves, it dives. If you sowed the seeds in peat pots, then you don’t need to pick, but if your seedlings grow in boxes, when picking, the seedlings are placed from the boxes into peat pots 8x8 cm in size and buried in the ground along the cotyledon leaves. The pickled peppers, after they take root in cups, begin to develop intensively, and shortly before the solemn moment of planting the seedlings in the open ground, they begin to accustom them to the environment in which they will find themselves: the seedlings are taken out into the fresh air daily, at first for a short time, but gradually the time spent in new conditions increase, preventing seedlings from falling into a draft or under "frost" below 13 ºC. Before planting seedlings in open ground, pepper is fertilized, and at least twice: two weeks after picking or in the phase of formation of the first pair of leaves in the seedlings, and then after another two weeks, or when the seedlings develop the second pair of leaves. Top dressing is best applied in liquid form. The grown, strengthened and hardened seedlings at the stage of formation of the first buds are planted in open ground when the air temperature reaches 15-17 ºС. Usually planting pepper in the ground occurs in late May - mid-June. Sweet pepper loves light, non-acidic soils, but you need to prepare a plot for pepper a year before planting. Moreover, it is not at all necessary that nothing grows in this place for a year, it’s just that the soil is being prepared for crops that precede pepper, the best of which are cucumber, zucchini, carrots, onions, pumpkins or green manure. But after crops such as eggplant, potatoes, tomatoes, peppers, physalis - in short, after nightshade, pepper is not grown. Holes are made in the garden at a distance of 40-50 cm from each other, and the distance between the rows is about 60 cm. The depth of the hole should be such that the root neck of the seedling after planting is flush with the surface of the plot.
Place one tablespoon each of a complete mineral fertilizer containing nitrogen, potassium, and phosphorus into the holes, and thoroughly mix the pepper fertilizer into the soil at the bottom of the hole. If the seedlings grew in peat pots, then lower the seedling into the hole directly with it, and if you grew the seedlings in a common container, then carefully remove the pepper from it, trying not to destroy the earthen ball, and lower it into the hole. Fill the hole halfway with fertile soil, then water each plant generously, spending one bucket of water on three seedlings, and when the water is absorbed, fill the holes with earth to the top. It is advisable after planting to mulch the area with sweet pepper peat. If the temperature drops below 13 ºC at night, the planted seedlings will need shelter.
Place one tablespoon each of a complete mineral fertilizer containing nitrogen, potassium, and phosphorus into the holes, and thoroughly mix the pepper fertilizer into the soil at the bottom of the hole. If the seedlings grew in peat pots, then lower the seedling into the hole directly with it, and if you grew the seedlings in a common container, then carefully remove the pepper from it, trying not to destroy the earthen ball, and lower it into the hole. Fill the hole halfway with fertile soil, then water each plant generously, spending one bucket of water on three seedlings, and when the water is absorbed, fill the holes with earth to the top. It is advisable after planting to mulch the area with sweet pepper peat. If the temperature drops below 13 ºC at night, the planted seedlings will need shelter.
Growing bitter (hot) pepper begins with sowing seeds for seedlings in February or March in cool regions and in January-February in warm ones. The soil mixture can be purchased at the store, or you can cook it yourself: mix non-acid riding peat, humus and river sand in equal proportions. Hot pepper seeds also need to be prepared for sowing: first, dip them for half an hour in a weak solution of potassium permanganate, and then wrap them in a damp cloth and wait at a temperature of 25 ºC until they peck. After that, the seeds, very carefully, so as not to break off the sprouts that have appeared, are planted in moist soil to a depth of 5-10 mm, keeping a distance of at least 5 cm between them. The seeds are sown in boxes or peat pots, which are covered with film or glass and placed before germination. to a warm place. Seeds of different varieties of hot pepper germinate at different rates, but as soon as shoots begin to appear, the crops need to be rearranged into the light. If the plants lack lighting, a phytolamp or other lighting device should be placed above them at a height of 25-30 cm: daylight hours for the normal development of seedlings should last at least 18 hours, otherwise the seedlings will painfully stretch. And don't forget to keep the substrate slightly damp, while at the same time not allowing it to get too wet. From time to time between seedlings it is desirable to loosen the soil. At the stage of development of the seedlings of two pairs of true leaves, it is necessary to pick the seedlings into shallow pots with a diameter of 8-10 cm - if you plant them in a deeper dish, then by the time the seedlings are planted in open ground, the root system will be more developed than the fruitful ground part, and this preferably not allowed. Before starting the procedure, the seedlings are watered. Try not to damage the root system of the seedlings when picking, but if the central root is too long, shorten it. Before planting in the ground, hot pepper seedlings are fed twice - two weeks after picking and two weeks after the first feeding.
Planting hot pepper in open ground is carried out at the stage of formation of the first buds in seedlings. A prerequisite is also the establishment of an average daily temperature at the level of 15-17 ºC. Two weeks before planting, hot pepper seedlings undergo hardening, which consists in daily “walking” of seedlings in the open air. You need to start from 15-20 minutes, but gradually increase the duration of the session until the young plants can spend the whole day in the air. As soon as the plants get used to the environment in which they will grow, they can be planted in the garden. Peppers are transplanted by transshipment, they do not like it when the roots are greatly disturbed.
Growing hot peppers at home
If you are going to grow peppers at home, when picking, transplant the seedlings into a pot in which a layer of drainage material is laid under the soil mixture. The pot itself should be at least 3 liters in volume, ideally 5 liters. Place the pepper pots on a south, southeast, or southwest window sill, but if there is little light, arrange artificial lighting for the plants. When the picked plants reach a height of 20 cm, pinch the top of them to increase tillering. Caring for hot peppers at home includes regular watering and periodic top dressing. Pepper is watered with settled water at room temperature, which is poured not on the surface of the soil, but in a pan under the pot. As soon as the water from the pan disappears, you need to add more. During spring and summer, capsicum is fed with a complex mineral fertilizer for house plants. Do this on moist soil after watering. When airing the room, make sure that the pepper does not end up in a draft. When flowering begins, pepper pots need to be shaken slightly to allow pollination to occur. It would be even better to use a cotton swab (or brush) for pollination and touch it with each flower. In winter, when heating devices are intensively working, it is advisable to cover the radiators with a damp cloth - this measure prevents excessive drying of the air. Or you can use humidifiers for this purpose. A plant that is one year old should be transplanted each spring into new soil and a larger pot.
Planting hot pepper in open ground is carried out at the stage of formation of the first buds in seedlings. A prerequisite is also the establishment of an average daily temperature at the level of 15-17 ºC. Two weeks before planting, hot pepper seedlings undergo hardening, which consists in daily “walking” of seedlings in the open air. You need to start from 15-20 minutes, but gradually increase the duration of the session until the young plants can spend the whole day in the air. As soon as the plants get used to the environment in which they will grow, they can be planted in the garden. Peppers are transplanted by transshipment, they do not like it when the roots are greatly disturbed.
Growing hot peppers at home
If you are going to grow peppers at home, when picking, transplant the seedlings into a pot in which a layer of drainage material is laid under the soil mixture. The pot itself should be at least 3 liters in volume, ideally 5 liters. Place the pepper pots on a south, southeast, or southwest window sill, but if there is little light, arrange artificial lighting for the plants. When the picked plants reach a height of 20 cm, pinch the top of them to increase tillering. Caring for hot peppers at home includes regular watering and periodic top dressing. Pepper is watered with settled water at room temperature, which is poured not on the surface of the soil, but in a pan under the pot. As soon as the water from the pan disappears, you need to add more. During spring and summer, capsicum is fed with a complex mineral fertilizer for house plants. Do this on moist soil after watering. When airing the room, make sure that the pepper does not end up in a draft. When flowering begins, pepper pots need to be shaken slightly to allow pollination to occur. It would be even better to use a cotton swab (or brush) for pollination and touch it with each flower. In winter, when heating devices are intensively working, it is advisable to cover the radiators with a damp cloth - this measure prevents excessive drying of the air. Or you can use humidifiers for this purpose. A plant that is one year old should be transplanted each spring into new soil and a larger pot.
Corn is grown by seed method - seedling and seedless. Sowing corn for seedlings is carried out in cassettes with cells of 45 cm² or in peat pots with a diameter of 12 cm. The cassettes and pots are filled with a mixture of well-structured soddy soil, mixed in equal proportions with rotted humus. To increase the moisture capacity of the substrate, hydrogel can be added to it, but when filling cells and pots with soil mixture, keep in mind that the gel can absorb up to 500 volumes of water. The hydrogel will allow you to reduce the number of waterings by 3-5 times, since the crystals that have absorbed water will gradually release moisture and give it to the soil. Corn seeds are sown in early May, after germinating them for 5-7 days in a damp cloth or filter paper at room temperature. 3-4 corn grains are placed in pots, two in cells. The seeds are deepened by 3-4 cm, after which the soil is moistened with a warm solution of 4 g of Fundazol in 10 liters of water and the crops are transferred to a sunny windowsill with an eastern or southeastern exposure. Seedlings of corn develop very slowly, and it is advisable to organize additional lighting for them with a phytolamp or fluorescent lamp from the moment the shoots appear. During the growth period, seedlings are fed once or twice with Polifid, Terraflex, Master or Kemira-hydro. When 3-4 leaves appear, leave one strong seedling in the cell, and two in pots, and cut weaker plants with scissors above the soil surface. The growth and development of seedlings accelerates from the moment they develop 4-5 leaves. A week before planting the seedlings in the ground, they begin to harden it with daily sessions of staying in the shade in the open air, gradually increasing the duration of the procedure until the seedlings get used to the new development conditions. Corn is not dived, because it does not tolerate transplanting very well.
Corn is planted in open ground when frosts can no longer damage it - in early or mid-June. Please note that lowering the air temperature to 3 ºC can slow down the growth of seedlings up to a complete stop. If the temperature drops even lower, the seedlings will die. Corn is a thermophilic plant, so the site for it should be sunny and protected from the wind. The best soil for corn is considered to be well-drained fertile and breathable black soil, in which cabbage, potatoes, beets, zucchini, tomatoes, cucumbers and squash grew before corn. It is necessary to prepare a plot for corn in the fall: it is necessary to remove the weeds and bring in rotted manure for deep digging. In the spring, if the soil on the site is heavy, it is loosened by adding chopped straw or sawdust, after which the surface is leveled.
Corn is planted in open ground when frosts can no longer damage it - in early or mid-June. Please note that lowering the air temperature to 3 ºC can slow down the growth of seedlings up to a complete stop. If the temperature drops even lower, the seedlings will die. Corn is a thermophilic plant, so the site for it should be sunny and protected from the wind. The best soil for corn is considered to be well-drained fertile and breathable black soil, in which cabbage, potatoes, beets, zucchini, tomatoes, cucumbers and squash grew before corn. It is necessary to prepare a plot for corn in the fall: it is necessary to remove the weeds and bring in rotted manure for deep digging. In the spring, if the soil on the site is heavy, it is loosened by adding chopped straw or sawdust, after which the surface is leveled.
Sowing: in this way, sow soybean seeds at a depth of 3-4 cm, but the soil must be sufficiently warmed up, therefore, with early sowing, introductory seeding is reduced, and in late sowing, the duration is reduced.
Care: post-emergence harrowing, systematic loosening of the soil, weeding, fertilizing, watering during flowering, formation of beans and filling of seeds.
Pumpkin is grown from seeds using seedling and seedless methods, however, the cultivation of such a variety as nutmeg pumpkin involves exclusively seedling propagation. Sowing pumpkin seeds in the ground is carried out not earlier than the soil at a depth of 7-8 cm warms up to a temperature of 12-13 ºC. Growing pumpkins in open ground begins with pre-sowing treatment of the site and seed. Before planting, the seeds are heated for 9-10 hours at a temperature of 40 ºC, then they are immersed for half a day in an ash solution (2 tablespoons of wood ash are diluted in 1 liter of boiling water with stirring), in order to facilitate the passage of the germ through a dense peel. The seeds are heated in the oven, then wrapped in several layers of gauze, richly moistened with an ash solution. You can, of course, do nothing of this, but then the pumpkin ripening period increases, and if you live in an area with a short and cool summer, then your pumpkin will not have time to ripen before frost without pre-sowing seed treatment. Before planting a pumpkin, rows are marked in the garden and holes 30 cm in diameter are made in them. 2-3 seeds, but not in a bunch, but lay them out at a distance from each other, deepening by 5-6 cm if the soil in the garden is medium loamy, and by 8-10 cm if the soil is light. The seeds are covered with fertile soil, and the site is mulched with peat chips or humus. A gap of at least 2 m is left between rows, and at least a meter between holes in a row. It is better to make holes in a checkerboard pattern. To speed up the emergence of seedlings, a film is thrown over the crops, sprinkling its edges with earth. When shoots appear, and this happens under normal conditions in a week, remove the film, wait until 2 true leaves develop on the seedlings and thin them out: leave no more than 2 plants in each hole, do not pull out the rest, but simply cut them off at ground level, so as not to injure the root system of the remaining seedlings. If you are still afraid of frost, install a wire frame on the site and put a film on it.
Pumpkin planting for seedlings is carried out 15-20 days before planting seedlings in open ground. The pumpkin seeds that have been hatched after pre-sowing treatment are laid out one by one in plastic or peat pots with a diameter of 10-15 cm, half-filled with a soil mixture of two parts of humus, one part of soddy soil and one part of peat. The seeds are covered with the same soil mixture, but with the addition of a five percent solution of mullein and 10-15 g of wood ash. Crops are moistened, after which the pots are covered with a film. How to grow pumpkin seedlings and prevent them from stretching, which often happens with seedlings at home? Caring for pumpkin seedlings involves keeping crops in good light, excluding direct sunlight, and at a temperature of 20-25 ºC, and when shoots appear, set the following temperature regime: during the day the room should be 15-20 ºC, and at night - 12-13 ºC. If, nevertheless, some seedlings are stretched out, then after a week and a half, the subcotyledon section of such a seedling is folded into a ring and covered with moist soil up to the cotyledon leaves. Water the crops moderately, avoiding waterlogging of the substrate. Twice during the seedling period, seedlings receive complex top dressing. Pumpkin fertilizer is prepared according to the following recipe: 1 liter of mullein, 17 g of ammonium sulfate, 15 g of potassium sulfate and 20 g of superphosphate are diluted in 10 liters of water. Consumption - half a liter of solution per seedling. Before planting in open ground, seedlings are taken out to the veranda or balcony and hardening procedures are carried out, opening the window for an hour or two, and gradually for a longer time, so that the plants get used to the environment in which they will soon find themselves. A couple of days before planting in the ground, the window is no longer closed at all. It is contraindicated to dive a pumpkin, since it is very easy to damage the root system of seedlings during transplantation. That is why it is recommended to sow pumpkin seeds in separate pots.
Planting pumpkins in the ground is carried out with the onset of stable warm weather. This usually happens in late May or early June. Pumpkin is a melon culture, which means that it needs a lot of sun, so choose a southern site for planting pumpkins. The optimum temperature for pumpkin growth is 25 ºC, and if the temperature drops to 14 ºC, the growth of the plant stops. Pumpkin grows well in areas where green manure, onions, cabbage, carrots, beets, soybeans, peas, beans, beans, lentils or peanuts grew last year. Potato, sunflower, cucumber, zucchini, patisson, watermelon, melon and pumpkin are considered bad predecessors.
Pumpkin planting for seedlings is carried out 15-20 days before planting seedlings in open ground. The pumpkin seeds that have been hatched after pre-sowing treatment are laid out one by one in plastic or peat pots with a diameter of 10-15 cm, half-filled with a soil mixture of two parts of humus, one part of soddy soil and one part of peat. The seeds are covered with the same soil mixture, but with the addition of a five percent solution of mullein and 10-15 g of wood ash. Crops are moistened, after which the pots are covered with a film. How to grow pumpkin seedlings and prevent them from stretching, which often happens with seedlings at home? Caring for pumpkin seedlings involves keeping crops in good light, excluding direct sunlight, and at a temperature of 20-25 ºC, and when shoots appear, set the following temperature regime: during the day the room should be 15-20 ºC, and at night - 12-13 ºC. If, nevertheless, some seedlings are stretched out, then after a week and a half, the subcotyledon section of such a seedling is folded into a ring and covered with moist soil up to the cotyledon leaves. Water the crops moderately, avoiding waterlogging of the substrate. Twice during the seedling period, seedlings receive complex top dressing. Pumpkin fertilizer is prepared according to the following recipe: 1 liter of mullein, 17 g of ammonium sulfate, 15 g of potassium sulfate and 20 g of superphosphate are diluted in 10 liters of water. Consumption - half a liter of solution per seedling. Before planting in open ground, seedlings are taken out to the veranda or balcony and hardening procedures are carried out, opening the window for an hour or two, and gradually for a longer time, so that the plants get used to the environment in which they will soon find themselves. A couple of days before planting in the ground, the window is no longer closed at all. It is contraindicated to dive a pumpkin, since it is very easy to damage the root system of seedlings during transplantation. That is why it is recommended to sow pumpkin seeds in separate pots.
Planting pumpkins in the ground is carried out with the onset of stable warm weather. This usually happens in late May or early June. Pumpkin is a melon culture, which means that it needs a lot of sun, so choose a southern site for planting pumpkins. The optimum temperature for pumpkin growth is 25 ºC, and if the temperature drops to 14 ºC, the growth of the plant stops. Pumpkin grows well in areas where green manure, onions, cabbage, carrots, beets, soybeans, peas, beans, beans, lentils or peanuts grew last year. Potato, sunflower, cucumber, zucchini, patisson, watermelon, melon and pumpkin are considered bad predecessors.
Tomato varieties can be divided into three groups according to ripening time: early, mid-ripening and late-ripening.
Varieties: Ripening time:
Early maturing 90-100 days
Mid-season 110-120 days
Late ripening up to 140 days
If you know which group your chosen tomato variety belongs to, you can easily calculate the sowing time. For example, to get the first early-ripening tomatoes by, say, July 15, you need to sow the seeds about 100 days before. To this period, 4-7 days should also be added for the emergence of seedlings and 3-5 days for the adaptation of seedlings after they are transplanted into open ground. Thus, it turns out that tomatoes should be sown around March 26.
Sowing dates for tomato seeds for different regions
Southern and North Caucasian Federal Districts
Tomato for greenhouses 3rd decade of January
Tomato for open ground 1st decade of February
Belarus, Volga Federal District
Tomato for greenhouses 1st decade of March
Tomato for open ground 2nd decade of March
Central and Northwestern Federal District
Tomato for greenhouses 2nd decade of March
Tomato for open ground 3rd decade of March
Ural Federal District
Tomato for greenhouses 3rd decade of March
Tomato for open ground 1st decade of April
Siberian and Far Eastern Federal Districts
Tomato for greenhouses 3rd decade of March
Tomato for open ground 1st decade of April
Time from sowing to shoots: 7-8 days.
Seeds before sowing must be disinfected in order to destroy pathogens. To do this, wrap the seeds in gauze and dip them in a dark pink solution of potassium permanganate (2.5 g per 1 tbsp of water) for 20-30 minutes. Then rinse the seeds under running water and dry a little.
After disinfection, it is recommended to germinate tomato seeds - this will speed up the germination process. Take a paper towel, moisten it with water and fold it in half. Put the pickled tomato seeds on one end of the napkin, and cover them with the other end.
It is most convenient to put a napkin with seeds on a saucer or a small plastic plate. Put the saucer in a bag and put it in a warm place (for example, near the radiator). Do not forget to constantly moisten the napkin so that the seeds on it do not dry out. Tomato seeds begin to germinate on the 3-5th day. Select all seeds that have hatched by this time for sowing.
Soil for sowing tomato seeds can be purchased at a gardening store. Any universal soil for growing seedlings of vegetables will do. Tomato seeds can be sown in seedling boxes or separate containers. Today in the store you can find boxes for seedlings for every taste and budget. As for single containers, plastic cups are the most practical option. Sowing seeds in a container of each type differs only in that seedlings from a large container, when they reach a certain size, should be dived, and sprouts from cups can be transplanted immediately into open ground.
Choose containers for sowing tomatoes that are not too large. It is enough to fit plants of the same variety in them - so then it will be more convenient to navigate in the seedlings.
Fill the container with earth and pour it well with water. At a distance of 4 cm from each other, mark several rows. Spread tomato seeds in them every 2 cm. With a pencil or a special stick, gently press the seeds into the soil to a depth of about 1 cm. Then sprinkle them with earth. You no longer need to water the tomato crops.
Cover the containers with film or a special lid, if one was included. Place the containers closer to the battery until the first shoots appear. This usually happens after 4-7 days. As soon as this happens, move the container to a bright place with a temperature not exceeding 18°C.
Remember that for good growth, seedlings need at least 12 hours a day to be in the light. If this does not work out, you will have to purchase lamps for additional illumination.
Tomato seedlings from a common container can be dived when the seedlings have 2 true leaves. Just do not confuse them with cotyledons - this is a common mistake of novice gardeners. True leaflets are the second pair of leaves.
Using a small stick or plastic spoon, carefully remove each seedling with a small clod of earth from the common box and transfer to separate containers. Bury the plants in the soil almost to the cotyledon leaves.
The soil for transplanting seedlings can be taken the same as for sowing seeds. Only this time it is recommended to add a complete mineral fertilizer to it at the rate of 1 tbsp. per 5 liters of substrate.
The timing of planting seedlings of tomatoes depending on the region.
Southern and North Caucasian Federal Districts
Tomato for greenhouses 3rd decade of March
Tomato for open ground 2nd decade of April
Belarus, Volga Federal District
Tomato for greenhouses 1st decade of May
Tomato for open ground 3rd decade of May
Central and Northwestern Federal District
Tomato for greenhouses 2nd decade of May
Tomato for open ground 1st decade of June
Ural Federal District
Tomato for greenhouses 2nd decade of May
Tomato for open ground 1st decade of June
Siberian and Far Eastern Federal Districts
Tomato for greenhouses 3rd decade of May
Tomato for open ground 1st decade of June
Varieties: Ripening time:
Early maturing 90-100 days
Mid-season 110-120 days
Late ripening up to 140 days
If you know which group your chosen tomato variety belongs to, you can easily calculate the sowing time. For example, to get the first early-ripening tomatoes by, say, July 15, you need to sow the seeds about 100 days before. To this period, 4-7 days should also be added for the emergence of seedlings and 3-5 days for the adaptation of seedlings after they are transplanted into open ground. Thus, it turns out that tomatoes should be sown around March 26.
Sowing dates for tomato seeds for different regions
Southern and North Caucasian Federal Districts
Tomato for greenhouses 3rd decade of January
Tomato for open ground 1st decade of February
Belarus, Volga Federal District
Tomato for greenhouses 1st decade of March
Tomato for open ground 2nd decade of March
Central and Northwestern Federal District
Tomato for greenhouses 2nd decade of March
Tomato for open ground 3rd decade of March
Ural Federal District
Tomato for greenhouses 3rd decade of March
Tomato for open ground 1st decade of April
Siberian and Far Eastern Federal Districts
Tomato for greenhouses 3rd decade of March
Tomato for open ground 1st decade of April
Time from sowing to shoots: 7-8 days.
Seeds before sowing must be disinfected in order to destroy pathogens. To do this, wrap the seeds in gauze and dip them in a dark pink solution of potassium permanganate (2.5 g per 1 tbsp of water) for 20-30 minutes. Then rinse the seeds under running water and dry a little.
After disinfection, it is recommended to germinate tomato seeds - this will speed up the germination process. Take a paper towel, moisten it with water and fold it in half. Put the pickled tomato seeds on one end of the napkin, and cover them with the other end.
It is most convenient to put a napkin with seeds on a saucer or a small plastic plate. Put the saucer in a bag and put it in a warm place (for example, near the radiator). Do not forget to constantly moisten the napkin so that the seeds on it do not dry out. Tomato seeds begin to germinate on the 3-5th day. Select all seeds that have hatched by this time for sowing.
Soil for sowing tomato seeds can be purchased at a gardening store. Any universal soil for growing seedlings of vegetables will do. Tomato seeds can be sown in seedling boxes or separate containers. Today in the store you can find boxes for seedlings for every taste and budget. As for single containers, plastic cups are the most practical option. Sowing seeds in a container of each type differs only in that seedlings from a large container, when they reach a certain size, should be dived, and sprouts from cups can be transplanted immediately into open ground.
Choose containers for sowing tomatoes that are not too large. It is enough to fit plants of the same variety in them - so then it will be more convenient to navigate in the seedlings.
Fill the container with earth and pour it well with water. At a distance of 4 cm from each other, mark several rows. Spread tomato seeds in them every 2 cm. With a pencil or a special stick, gently press the seeds into the soil to a depth of about 1 cm. Then sprinkle them with earth. You no longer need to water the tomato crops.
Cover the containers with film or a special lid, if one was included. Place the containers closer to the battery until the first shoots appear. This usually happens after 4-7 days. As soon as this happens, move the container to a bright place with a temperature not exceeding 18°C.
Remember that for good growth, seedlings need at least 12 hours a day to be in the light. If this does not work out, you will have to purchase lamps for additional illumination.
Tomato seedlings from a common container can be dived when the seedlings have 2 true leaves. Just do not confuse them with cotyledons - this is a common mistake of novice gardeners. True leaflets are the second pair of leaves.
Using a small stick or plastic spoon, carefully remove each seedling with a small clod of earth from the common box and transfer to separate containers. Bury the plants in the soil almost to the cotyledon leaves.
The soil for transplanting seedlings can be taken the same as for sowing seeds. Only this time it is recommended to add a complete mineral fertilizer to it at the rate of 1 tbsp. per 5 liters of substrate.
The timing of planting seedlings of tomatoes depending on the region.
Southern and North Caucasian Federal Districts
Tomato for greenhouses 3rd decade of March
Tomato for open ground 2nd decade of April
Belarus, Volga Federal District
Tomato for greenhouses 1st decade of May
Tomato for open ground 3rd decade of May
Central and Northwestern Federal District
Tomato for greenhouses 2nd decade of May
Tomato for open ground 1st decade of June
Ural Federal District
Tomato for greenhouses 2nd decade of May
Tomato for open ground 1st decade of June
Siberian and Far Eastern Federal Districts
Tomato for greenhouses 3rd decade of May
Tomato for open ground 1st decade of June
To increase seed germination, scarification is recommended (can be ground with coarse river sand or sandpaper) and stratification in wet sand for 1 month.
Plants develop very slowly, so at first they are grown in small pots with a volume of 1-2 liters.
Seeds are planted immediately in open ground, but you can first grow seedlings in a greenhouse if the weather does not yet allow planting seeds in the ground. You can plant seeds in the spring, in any month, from March to May, depending on the weather in the region. Before planting seeds, the soil does not need to be watered abundantly, but it can be fertilized. It is important to leave enough space between them, as over time the bush grows greatly.
Plants develop very slowly, so at first they are grown in small pots with a volume of 1-2 liters.
Seeds are planted immediately in open ground, but you can first grow seedlings in a greenhouse if the weather does not yet allow planting seeds in the ground. You can plant seeds in the spring, in any month, from March to May, depending on the weather in the region. Before planting seeds, the soil does not need to be watered abundantly, but it can be fertilized. It is important to leave enough space between them, as over time the bush grows greatly.
Stratification is not necessary, but it is recommended to treat the seeds with a growth stimulant before sowing.
Seeds are sown for seedlings in November-December to a depth of 1–2 cm, moistened and covered with film.
Seeds are sown for seedlings in November-December to a depth of 1–2 cm, moistened and covered with film.